Tocoli,  Bolivia  a  brief  view  of  a  transformative  space  

   

Sarah  Fitzgerald  Providence  College  ’13  

A  cursory  glance  at  these  photographs  tells  a  story  punctuated  by  wild  woven  colors,  captivating  rituals,  and  enchanting  views  of  the  majestic  Lake  Titicaca.  Yet,  however  beautiful  these  images  may  appear,  they  still  cannot  adequately  capture  the  profound  impact  that  living  among  the  people  of  Tocoli  had  on  me  and  the  lens  

with  which  I  view  the  world.    

Descendants  of  the  Aymara  culture,  the  people  of  Tocoli  live  by  the  ancient  Aymara  mantra  “suma  qamaña”  translated  as  “live  well.”  In  stark  contrast  to  the  life  of  

perpetual  striving,  eternal  accumulation,  and  constant  struggle  for  self-­‐improvement  which  I  was  accustomed  to  in  the  United  States,  in  Tocoli  I  was  challenged  to  live  in  a  manner  that  was  harmonious  with  the  earth  and  the  

community.  In  essence,  I  was  invited  to  live  “well”  rather  than  to  live  “better.”    

In  Tocoli  we  ate  in  community,  worked  in  community,  shared  in  community,  danced  in  community,  and  gave  thanks  to  the  Mother  Earth  in  community.  No  word  was  spoken  nor  action  performed  which  did  not  carry  with  it  thousands  of  years  of  

history,  context,  and  meaning.  For  the  Aymara  people  who  view  time  in  a  circular  rather  than  a  linear  fashion,  the  past  is  before  us,  the  future  is  behind  us,  the  

present  is  beneath  us,  and  the  community  is  beside  us.  In  Tocoli,  “suma  qamaña”  is  a  daily  reality.  

Tocoli    Tocoli,  or  “where  the  toads  reined”  in  Aymara,  is  a  small  pueblo  of  about  twenty  families  located  on  the  shores  and  sharply  steeping  mountains  of  Lake  Titicaca.  The  villagers  hope  to  create  a  small  eco-­‐tourism  business  with  the  hope  of  offering  the  people  of  Tocoli  additional  income  so  that  they  are  not  forced  to  leave  the  pueblo.  

Q’oa      This  ritual  of  thanksgiving  is  dedicated  to  the  Pachamama,  or  Mother  Earth.  Various  symbolic  elements  are  collected  in  the  center  of  a  weaving  that  is  then  burned  so  that  the  participants  and  Pachamama  can  receive  the  energy  from  the  act.  It  is  usually  celebrated  at  the  beginning  or  end  of  a  cycle,  such  as  a  change  of  season  or  after  a  harvest.    

Ruben    Born  in  Tocoli,  Ruben  was  inspired  to  use  his  education  as  an  instrument  to  help  his  community.  He  has  studied  in  three  universities,  including  the  Catholic  University  of  Bolivia  in  La  Paz  which  expelled  him  for  not  renouncing  his  religious  beliefs  in  favor  of  those  of  the  Catholic  Church.    Today,  Ruben  is  finishing  his  linguistics  thesis  and  has  collected  a  wealth  of  knowledge  about  the  wisdom  and  oral  legends  of  his  community,  including  stories  regarding  the  formation  of  Lake  Titicaca  and  the  origins  of  the  potato  which  his  grandfather  shared  with  him.  Ruben  hopes  to  preserve  these  traditions  through  sharing  this  wisdom  with  those  who  visit  his  pueblo.  

 

The  Lake    There  are  various  myths  explaining  the  origin  of  Lake  Titicaca,  and  in  Tocoli  the  most  popular  story  includes  dragons.  According  to  this  version,  one  of  the  dragons  was  killed  during  a  battle  and  his  fallen  body  formed  part  of  the  lake’s  shores.  In  this  photograph,  the  head  of  the  dragon  can  be  seen  in  the  small  peninsula  jutting  out  into  the  water.    

 

Ch’oqe    

This  plant  is  considered  the  mother  species  of  all  ch’oqe,  or  potatoes.  Recent  studies  suggest  that,  at  one  time,  over  5,000  species  of  potatoes  existed  in  Latin  America.  However,  the  rise  of  monoculture  farming  has  seen  this  number  rapidly  diminish.    

Community    In  Tocoli,  celebratory  meals  are  always  shared  in  the  context  of  community.  Here,  visitors  are  welcomed  with  traditional  foods.    

Meals    

The  daily  diet  of  the  average  Tocoli  resident  is  humble,  consisting  primarily  of  potatoes  and  small  fish  from  the  lake.    

 

La  Paz    

Located  only  a  few  hours  from  Tocoli,  the  capital  city  of  La  Paz  is  the  largest  economic  engine  in  Bolivia.  Many  Tocoli  residents  leave  their  town  in  order  to  seek  employment  in  La  Paz  and  El  Alto.    

 

Wilmer      

Wilmer  plays  with  his  favorite  new  friends.  The  two  motherless  kittens  have  been  frequenting  his  house,  much  to  Wilmer’s  mother’s  dismay.    

Psalms    

A  Tocoli  resident  sings  from  a  Catholic  songbook  translated  into  Aymara,  the  native  language  in  this  region.