Download - Tocoli, Bolivia
Tocoli, Bolivia a brief view of a transformative space
Sarah Fitzgerald Providence College ’13
A cursory glance at these photographs tells a story punctuated by wild woven colors, captivating rituals, and enchanting views of the majestic Lake Titicaca. Yet, however beautiful these images may appear, they still cannot adequately capture the profound impact that living among the people of Tocoli had on me and the lens
with which I view the world.
Descendants of the Aymara culture, the people of Tocoli live by the ancient Aymara mantra “suma qamaña” translated as “live well.” In stark contrast to the life of
perpetual striving, eternal accumulation, and constant struggle for self-‐improvement which I was accustomed to in the United States, in Tocoli I was challenged to live in a manner that was harmonious with the earth and the
community. In essence, I was invited to live “well” rather than to live “better.”
In Tocoli we ate in community, worked in community, shared in community, danced in community, and gave thanks to the Mother Earth in community. No word was spoken nor action performed which did not carry with it thousands of years of
history, context, and meaning. For the Aymara people who view time in a circular rather than a linear fashion, the past is before us, the future is behind us, the
present is beneath us, and the community is beside us. In Tocoli, “suma qamaña” is a daily reality.
Tocoli Tocoli, or “where the toads reined” in Aymara, is a small pueblo of about twenty families located on the shores and sharply steeping mountains of Lake Titicaca. The villagers hope to create a small eco-‐tourism business with the hope of offering the people of Tocoli additional income so that they are not forced to leave the pueblo.
Q’oa This ritual of thanksgiving is dedicated to the Pachamama, or Mother Earth. Various symbolic elements are collected in the center of a weaving that is then burned so that the participants and Pachamama can receive the energy from the act. It is usually celebrated at the beginning or end of a cycle, such as a change of season or after a harvest.
Ruben Born in Tocoli, Ruben was inspired to use his education as an instrument to help his community. He has studied in three universities, including the Catholic University of Bolivia in La Paz which expelled him for not renouncing his religious beliefs in favor of those of the Catholic Church. Today, Ruben is finishing his linguistics thesis and has collected a wealth of knowledge about the wisdom and oral legends of his community, including stories regarding the formation of Lake Titicaca and the origins of the potato which his grandfather shared with him. Ruben hopes to preserve these traditions through sharing this wisdom with those who visit his pueblo.
The Lake There are various myths explaining the origin of Lake Titicaca, and in Tocoli the most popular story includes dragons. According to this version, one of the dragons was killed during a battle and his fallen body formed part of the lake’s shores. In this photograph, the head of the dragon can be seen in the small peninsula jutting out into the water.
Ch’oqe
This plant is considered the mother species of all ch’oqe, or potatoes. Recent studies suggest that, at one time, over 5,000 species of potatoes existed in Latin America. However, the rise of monoculture farming has seen this number rapidly diminish.
Community In Tocoli, celebratory meals are always shared in the context of community. Here, visitors are welcomed with traditional foods.
Meals
The daily diet of the average Tocoli resident is humble, consisting primarily of potatoes and small fish from the lake.
La Paz
Located only a few hours from Tocoli, the capital city of La Paz is the largest economic engine in Bolivia. Many Tocoli residents leave their town in order to seek employment in La Paz and El Alto.
Wilmer
Wilmer plays with his favorite new friends. The two motherless kittens have been frequenting his house, much to Wilmer’s mother’s dismay.
Psalms
A Tocoli resident sings from a Catholic songbook translated into Aymara, the native language in this region.