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Pieve a EliciJuly-August 2016

Pieve romanica di San Pantaleone9.15 pm

� Sunday, July 3 violin Sergej KRYLOV

piano Beatrice MAGNANImusic by Stravinskij, Kreisler

� Saturday, July 9 piano Martina FILJAKmusic by Haydn, Bach/Liszt,

Liszt, Donizetti/Liszt� Sunday, July 17

TRIO DI PARMAviolin Ivan Rabaglia cello Enrico Bronzi

piano Alberto Miodini music by Schubert

� Sunday, July 24 strings QUARTETTO DI VENEZIA

violin Andrea Vio violin Alberto Battiston

viola Giancarlo Di Vacri cello Angelo Zanin

music by Mozart, Beethoven� Sunday, July 31

piano Andrea LUCCHESINImusic by Liszt, Chopin

� Friday, August 5 Enrico DINDO celloPietro DE MARIA pianomusic by Beethoven, Schumann, Brahms� Sunday, August 7 Kirill TROUSSOV violinAlexandra TROUSSOVA pianomusic by Prokofiev, Schnittke, Shchedrin, Shostakovich, Tchaikovsky� Sunday, August 14 Alexander KOBRIN pianomusic by Beethoven, Schubert� Sunday, August 21 Natasha KORSAKOVA violinSimone SOLDATI pianomusic by Bach, Mozart, Beethoven, Gershwin� Sunday, August 28 Maria PERROTTA pianomusic by Schubert, Chopin, Beethoven

VERSILIA CHAMBERMUSIC FESTIVAL49th Concert Season

PIEVE A ELICIMASSAROSA

Tickets € 12,00 (full price) € 10,00 (concessions*) € 7,00 (for AML members) Info Associazione Musicale Lucchese: tel. 0583 469960 | Comune di Massarosa: Ufficio del Cittadino tel. 0584 979229 - Ufficio Cultura tel. 0584 979216www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it* Concessions are available to under-25s and over-60s, military and members of recognised associations.

Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di LuccaFondazione Banca del Monte di LuccaBanca BCC della Versilia Lunigiana e GarfagnanaComune di Massarosa

Assessorato alla cultura

stud

iori

ccucci

ContentsDirettore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamJoe BottoneClaudia CasoliDavid CollinsFrancesco ColucciJane CotterDavid FinkbeinerJonathan InghamManish Kumar AroraSimone LippiJulia Alexandra MeeDonna PilletereFrancis PettittJenny SchutzSilvano SimiNigel Sundius

Cover:Hiking on Monte Giovoby Simone Rabassini

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine di Grapevine EditionsRegistered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Representative office: Via delle Conce 25 - Lucca Centro Storico (near Piazzale Verdi).Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

Printed by Luminarprint srl - Calcinaia (PI).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

2016July

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2016

Editorial

Art/Music/Beauty

Traditions & History

Itinerary

Food & Drink

Remembering

Practical

July Events

A Sua Immagine (In His Image) 4Archaeology and Puccini

A Spinone Named Nina 24

The Via Francigena: UK to Italy

A Short Walk in Portovenere 7

Bruce Singer 21

Books in English in Lucca 21July’s Glories 23When Things Get Shaky 24

11-18

6

10

Swallows (a poem) 89

Vernissage, Roberto Pasquinelli 19One Man’s Passion for Tuscany

Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

Cantine Aperte 20

Where to Stay in LuccaBilingual CrosswordManish’s Zodiacal PredictionsProperties for SaleEnglish Speaking Professionals

18

19

25

25, 26

27

Lately we are hearing increasingly gloomy reports from around the world, but I hope you will enjoy the articles in this issue, which have been chosen to express the beauties in our corner of Italy – not only glorious churches, fine wines and beautiful music, but even the soulful beauty of a shaggy dog.

Maybe you know about the collection of English-language books available for consultation at the Agorà library in Lucca? If you picked up the Tirreno newspaper on 29 June you might have seen a full-page write-up about Gil Cohen and Paul Gervais' gift. There's even a photo of my friends and myself in dialogue with the firemen who freed us from the library elevator, when we were blocked between floors.

I have to admit, I was deflated to read that our work of cataloguing involved “subdividing the books alphabetically, a work that lasted months”. In fact the catalogue involved a bit more than this, and organizing the placement of the books at the library proved to be a surprisingly drawn-out logistical task. Still, I have to say that being discussed under the heading of “Culture” does feel quite good. Our next step will be to make the booklist visitable on the Grapevine website.

Gil and Paul came to live in Lucca in 1982. Soon thereafter they bought a home in the Compitese hills, the Villa Massei. They restored this beautiful 16th century palazzo and created the gardens that became internationally famous. Paul's entertaining memoir A Garden in Lucca (published in 2000) followed on Extraordinary People (published by HarperCollins in 1990 and a finalist for the PEN Faulkner Prize). Paul is also a gifted artist. Gil, who volunteered as an English tutor at Lucca's Liceo Classico for twelve years, is now serving on the board of directors for a foundation that helps to support the Dreyfoos School of the Arts in West Palm Beach, Florida. After they sold Villa Massei, Paul and Gil bought a home in West Palm Beach. But for half of each year, they return to Lucca’s Centro Storico.

We look forward to receiving more books in English for the collection, with the shared conviction that reading is an antidote to many of the world’s evils. Thanks to our many contributors, now and in the future!

A Sua Immaginehe person who first bore my name Francis was truly spirituality's started off as a dissolute happy- greatest troubadour. At the same go-lucky ladies' man with an time Francis overturned the T ample store of sometimes conventions of courtly love –

naughty troubadour songs which he sang in turned perfumed roses into perfect southern French romance tongue. gardens of thorns, kissed pus-Everything seemed to go well for him: wine, filled cheeks rather than white-women, song and plenty of money – if he powdered ones, found joy joined his dad's merchant business. (Letizia) in howling storm-ridden

Unfortunately, however, for his family (and wastelands rather than cosseted certainly for his women) he had a lightning inns, sang the delights of plain revelation which contrasted the pampered water to that of rich wines life he was leading with the life he felt truly (something more of us should do) called to follow. Literally stripping himself and, above all, modelled his life naked before his father, he finished up poorer on that of Christ itself.than anyone could remember. He was Italy is filled with the great emaciated by mortification and suffering, Franciscan churches – huge barn-like struc- by Domenico Manfredi of Camaiore, filthy with sores and embracing those with tures like that of San Francesco, so excel- illustrating scenes of Saint Francis' life in leprotic pustules, considered ripe for the lently restored in Lucca. They are barn-like chronological, clockwise order. The centre madhouse by one half, yet ripe for sainthood because the emphasis was on congregation, of the cloisters has a well built by Raphael of by the other half, unwilling or unable to take togetherness, simplicity and, above all, Controni in 1551. The cloister area is control of the new movement he had inspired preaching. Borgo a Mozzano has its own particularly picturesque at Christmas time and still today the subject of debate both gem-like Franciscan convent complete with when a life-size crib is set up.scholarly and street-wise. Zeffirelli himself aisle-less church and cloisters, connecting The history of the lunettes was that of confessed to us that he felt near to complete the spiritual centre to its practical subsidiar- gradual deterioration due to the elements. disgust at his hero's total lack of self-regard ies – the refectory, the chapter house, the When the friars sold the convent in 1983 to when making that iconic film on him: Frate dormitory and the workshops and cellars. the voluntary Misericordia association, Sole, Sorella Luna. The Borgo convent was built in 1523 by a which caters to the sick and dying by

I do not need to tell you the name of the member of the order of Frati Minori (friars offering medical assistance and ambulance Poverello except to state that his name minor), the new order founded by Saint services (in addition to running a very well-etymologically means 'from France' – in Francis. The original Observants sold it to appointed rest home), the priory adapted particular, southern France, that 'Provence' the Reformed friars of the same order around the buildings for their new use as a place redolent of post-classical romance and 1597. The monastery has a beautiful view of for the old and sick. Artistic niceties were spirituality. Indeed, Francis used chivalric the town below, a large vegetable garden relegated to second place, until 2011 when images of courtly love to woo his Lady with a pergola bedecked with kiwi fruits and generous assistance from such corpora-Poverty and his Sister Chastity. He spoke of surrounding it, a deep forest of oaks. tions as the Cassa di Risparmio di Lucca God's mysterious ways with a language Entering the sweet loggia, which has a sponsored the restoration of the lunettes, taken from such sources as Guillaume de chapel on its right, one finds an old cloister, all but five of which are now restored to Lorris' so-very influential Roman de la Rose. with spacious arches, and 29 lunettes painted their full splendour.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2016 4

The 29 lunettes have occupied the mind of here is how the book De Conformitate Vitae Napoleon's crossing of the Alps. The Italians eminent classicist and hagiographist Beati Francesci et Vitam Domini Jesu (by as are particularly good at this melodramatic, Christopher Stace for some time, ever since yet untranslated author Bartolomeo da Pisa) metaphorical way of displaying events. he showed them to a Franciscan friar friend influenced the depictions of the frescoes, Indeed, when anything came to resemble real of his. This interest resulted in a book which which served an especially important life too closely the painter would be Stace modestly calls a guidebook but purpose at a time when even many chastised. The example of Caravaggio which, in its details and profound research, potentates were illiterate. (Charlemagne for comes to mind, when he had to paint two has become rather more than that. In a sense example, confessed that he couldn't 'get the versions of the crucifixion of St. Peter Christopher has invented a new literary hang of ' reading and writing!) because in the first version Peter looked too genre which could be termed 'the educated At the same time, the lunettes are not a much like a peasant (which, as a fisherman guidebook'. The book, A Sua Immagine, In cartoon exposition of the life of the 'little he clearly had an affinity with).His Image (written in both English and poor one'. The scenes depicted in the lunettes Nevertheless, there are charming domestic Italian), was the occasion of an extremely have a symbolic, moral and eschatological features of the lunettes, as in number thirteen pleasant and learned afternoon at the significance overriding any merely factual depicting Francis's version of the multiplying Convent. Published by the prestigious event. I like to compare this technique with of the loaves. (Incidentally, although Francis Lucchese publishing house of Maria Pacini that used by painters like Jacques-Louis loved animals – and famously preached to the Fazzi Editore, it is a snip at just 20 euros for David, particularly in flamboyantly showing birds – I don't think he had a particular over 200 pages of fine writing and penchant for cats. One of ours has just brought beautiful illustrations. The proceeds will me the present of a goldfinch which I had to go to the Fraternità di Misericordia of save from its ferocious claws and allow to fly Borgo a Mozzano. once more into the blue ethereal sky.)

The presentation included interventions The Arcadian gardens of the monastery by Fr William Short, ofm (order of the were completed by tables replete with friars minor) and professor of Spirituality savoury and honeyed goodies, with plenty at the Franciscan college of San Luis Rey of liquids to wash them down. No event in in California, who inspired the author to Italy is complete without a rinfresco. write the book; Fr Fortunato Lozzelli, Indeed, the rinfresco is a sort of bribe for all ofm; the energetic new mayor of Borgo a good adult children to pay attention to the Mozzano Patrizio Andreuccetti; the speeches in order to obtain their foody Governatore della Misericordia Gabriele rewards! I'm sure the attention of the Brunini; and, of course, the author audience was high enough to guarantee himself. them a well-deserved reward. But then the

The main corpus of the guidebook subject was so interesting and the company describes and explains each of the so worthwhile to be with!lunettes. What is particularly significant

– by Francis PettittYou can follow Francis’ blog athttps://longoio2.wordpress.com

– by Francis PettittYou can follow Francis’ blog athttps://longoio2.wordpress.com

Following the now prevalent rules of conservative restoration, the lunettes

are as close to their original colours as possible.

a lunette before restoration

5


went to see one of the events that satisfied by the hour-plus show that they Puccini e la sua Lucca presents have attended.on a daily basis in Chiesa San It has been a long while since I have come I Giovanni. It included Puccini here. I remained truly struck by the many

scenes and Neapolitan songs. tourists present, even in very colorful short Arriving a few minutes early, along pants, yet attentive and ready to listen to

with the many tourists, I had time to go the music of Giacomo Puccini.see the remains of the pre-existing The performers were optimal, the temples and churches under the success was great, and, one final pavement of the stupendous baptismal consideration: were it not for Puccini e la basilica. This is a very meticulous and sua Lucca and Andrea Colombini, where interesting restoration, little known by could hundreds and hundreds of tourists the people of Lucca. San Giovanni is find the Puccini melodies each evening? situated above what the experts This is uncomfortable for some high-toned consider to be the oldest island, on Lucchesi, but if Lucca is to be remembered which it seems the Ligurians or the as the city of Giacomo Puccini, it is thanks Etruscans founded Lucca. to this initiative and certainly not to the two

The church is slowing filling up, all are or three evenings in a year that the Town of tourists, speaking a hundred different Lucca organizes at prohibitive prices. languages, but never the typical Here in San Giovanni, every evening at Lucchese pronunciation. At first the the same time, the tourists' demand to listen church is not full, but finally more than to the music of the most famous Lucchese 300 tourists are certainly present, in the world can be satisfied, with highly whispering among themselves applauded exhibitions of as soon as Maestro Diego optimal artistic value, created Fiorini sits down at the piano. by a private citizen at no cost to The Neapolitan songs are sung the citizens of Lucca.by mezzosoprano Laura Masini, This is the only concrete the Puccini melodies by tenor Puccini proposal in Lucca, Artemy Nagy. which perhaps some Lucchesi

After the first arias, sung in should eventually come and full voice by the artists, the listen to … in order to applause becomes ever more believe.… But as is well intense, until, in the finale, it known, “no man is a prophet in breaks into genuine ovation, his own land”.everyone on their feet for the artists, with more calls and – by Francesco Coluccirequests of bis by an enthusiastic public. After many minutes of (formerly director of the repeated applause the public Lucca Regional Tourism flows out noisily, clearly Authority)

Archaeology and Puccini

The applause becomes

ever more intense, until,

in the finale, it breaks

into genuine ovation,

everyone on their feet

for the artists,

with more calls and

requests of bis by

an enthusiastic public.

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he Mediterranean coast of Italy has many beautiful and restaurants and, not unnaturally, famous seaside towns and villages such as Portofino, fish is the great speciality. The Positano and Porto Ercole. Having visited a great many restaurants vary very much in T of them, my favourite remains Portovenere. Two things price, according to their proximity

make it alive and attractive: the first is that it is a working fishing to the promenade and the sea.port and secondly it is very much a holiday place for the Italian To make this day out a really family. The extraordinary architecture of narrow houses in magical mystery tour, take the car different colours all joined together and reaching some seven up the motorway towards Genoa, stories high from the promenade upwards, give it a very special exit at Sarzana and follow the flavour. Added to this the small town is dominated by a series of old signs to Lerici. Wind right up to defensive walls, towers and castles. The main street runs to the the top of the hill and as you come round the corner, you will see a level of three to four storeys inside the town and every now and truly wonderful sight. In front of you will be the La Spezia bay, then there are large arches with steps leading down to the with its many castles and islands and ships moving backwards and promenade. This is also a place associated with Byron and Keats. forwards. Looking down to your left, you will see the charming Local legend has it that Byron swam from Portovenere to Lerici. and colourful seaside town of Lerici, dominated by its spectacular

The town faces a beautiful and wild island called Palmaria which castle. Take the car down, and find a parking place as near to the sea can be reached by a small boat. Because the island and the as possible. A short walk onto the promenade will bring you to the mainland are close, the continual current of the water makes this kiosks that sell the tickets for the boat to Portovenere. One of the one of the cleanest places to swim and snorkel. It is well worth a joys of this day is that you leave the car behind for the day and you visit to the church which sits high up on a point of land looking out are taken by boat across the bay with all its wonderful sights to to sea and while you are up there, and facing the church, you will Portovenere. The trip takes about thirty minutes. You must be sure find in the wall a gate that leads you to what is called Byron's that you do not miss the last boat back because a bus ride round the grotto. A series of very steep steps takes you down to the water and bay is not to be recommended.it is a great favourite with locals and tourists alike to go and swim Lerici itself, although quite different, is a very attractive seaside there in the afternoon sun. For a small port, Portovenere has many town and on your way back, it is well worth the climb up to the

castle to enjoy the views. Often in the castle itself they have exhibitions of paintings and sculpture.

I hope that doing this trip will give you as much enjoyment as it has always given me and I have done it many many times.

– by Nigel Sundius

Hours from Easter to mid-September:Boats from Lerici to Portovenere

09.30/10.30/11.30/14.20/16.50Boats from Portovenere to Lerici

12.50/16.20/17.20/18.20Tickets 12 euros return. Children 6 to 11, €8 euros.

Tel. 0187 967676 or 0187 732987 www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it

(This information has been updated for 2016.)

From the Grapevine Archives (July 1995)

A drive and a boat ride followed by:

A Short Walk in Portovenere

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(InAcademy) InternationalAcademy of Foreign Studies

srlsVia Stefano Tofanelli, 275

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0583 312911

Language Training Centre

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Viaggio sul treno a Firenze da Lucca e penso al pueblo nel Nuovo Messico dove i pagliacci del ballo di mais fanno vibrare la terra mentre il mio treno fa clickity-clack sui binari come un incanto.

Visito la casa di Dante sulla via Dante Alighieri monto le scale con pochi curiosi turisti dalla Cina guardo al suo pugnale, il suo capolavoro aperto, posto con affetto sotto il vetro con illuminazioni azzurre.

Dante, i tuoi vicoli le vecchie strade serpeggianti della tua Commedia piangono ancora in angoscia e le rondini, come sempre lasciano gocce di sangue nel cieloche cadono su di noi come tutto il resto. Dopo tutti questi anniti mancano ancora i dolci incanti della morbida terra?

Nel cielo pallido mattinale suonano i campanili svegliano i morti.

I greggi del pastore brucano i versanti verdi – oh, dov'è il mio nome tra i poeti? in questi boschi incantati potresti pensare che gli dèi maliziosiregnino ancora sul mondo.

– tr. by Norma Jean Bishop

I ride the train to Florence from Lucca and think of the pueblo in New Mexico where corn dance clowns shake the earth as my train clickity clacks over the rails like a spell.

Visit Dante's home on Dante Alighieri street climb the stairs with the few curious tourists from China I gaze at his dagger, his masterpiece open, lovingly placed under glass with blue illuminations.

Dante, your streetsthe old winding roads of your Commedia still weep in anguish and the swallows, as always leave drops of blood in the skyto fall on us like so much else. After all these yearsdo you still miss the sweet charms of her soft earth? In the morning pale sky church bells ring awaken the dead.

Shepherd flocks graze the green hillsides – oh, where is my name among the poets? in these enchanted woodlands you might think mischievousgods still rule the world.

– by Joe Bottone (words to feed the soul, www.josephbottone.com)

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he recent exhibition La Dolce Vita (held at Bagni di Lucca's Circolo dei Forestieri in June) celebrated the life and work of the artist Raymond Victor Mee (1945-2006), T a painter, ceramicist and printmaker who spent his artistic

career working between England and Italy. Born in Leek (Staffordshire, England), he undertook his early artistic training in Staffordshire where he opened his Studio Pottery and Art Gallery in 1985, drawing inspiration from the surrounding rugged landscape. However, after his first trip to Italy in 1987 he became greatly influenced by opportunity to experience the tremendous Italian architecture and the local landscape, and it influence that Italian architecture and the Tuscan was here that he began to paint the Italian landscape landscape had on the work of this talented artist and its magnificent views. A lifelong relationship over a twenty-year period.with Italy and its people was underway, leading him The exhibition at the Circolo dei Forestieri to his studio in the beautiful village of Benabbio, (Bagni di Lucca, Tuscany) concentrated on his above the famous spa town of Bagni di Lucca. works on paper, with several oil paintings on

Benabbio and its inhabitants proved to be an display, all of which express his love of Italy and infinite source of inspiration for the artist as he the Italian people. Included in the exhibition reconnoitered the mediaeval alleys, olive groves, were a number of paintings and drawings by the vineyards and chestnut forests. He never ceased to artist's daughter, Julia, including a portrait of her be captivated by the breath-taking panoramic father depicted within his beloved Italian views and by the local people he met during his landscape, with Benabbio in the background. painting expeditions. Having found his muse, he Julia followed her father's passion for art, was inspired to paint an important series of oil becoming an artist and art historian. Having paintings and a collection of pen and ink initially trained with her father, she continued drawings. her artistic training at Staffordshire University

In subsequent years, the mediaeval walled city and the University of Reading before moving to of Lucca became a major source of inspiration, with its 99 Italy in 2005 and enrolling at the Accademia di Belle Arti di churches, numerous villas, museums, galleries and also the Firenze where she specialised in fresco painting. archaeological sites left unspoilt by the human hand of progress. The music accompanying the exhibition was composed, His artistic and emotional response to such a wealth of architecture performed and recorded by the artist's son Karl Mee. led him to de-construct his drawings of Lucca back in his studio in Raymond was fortunate to share the love and friendship of so order to create a montage which expressed the grandeur of Lucca's many people both in England and Italy and it is hoped that these artistic heritage. A perfect example of this is the View of Lucca in exhibitions and the accompanying publication will go some way to which Raymond gives us a glimpse of the magic of Lucca and its sharing his passion for art and the Italian landscape. beautiful buildings. Captured within one painting are the delicate blues which add to a sense of enchantment. The exhibitions are accompanied by a new book available in

The year 2016 marks the tenth anniversary and to celebrate his life English & Italian, written by Deirdre Anne Mee & Julia Alexandra and work two exhibitions are being held, one in England and a Mee (Italian version edited by Claudia Adami). For further second exhibition in Italy, both entitled La Dolce Vita – One Man's information about Raymond Victor Mee please contact Passion for the Magic of Tuscany. The retrospectives provide the [email protected]


Raymond Victor Mee One Man's Passion for the Magic of Tuscany

Ponte del Diavolo by Raymond Victor Mee. oil on canvas, 48 x 78 cm

Portrait of Raymond Victor Mee by Julia Alexandra Mee. graphite on paper, 30 x 23 cm, 2016

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heeling their bikes across Lucca's Piazza del With bike grease under their nails, suntanned arms, and a look of Carmine, looking fit and lean and younger than contentment on their faces, they talk of the spirituality of the ride.

their 60-something years, you can tell these two are It's not so much a religious pilgrimage, but it's a journey of Wserious cyclists. thinking. Watching the scenery spin by day after day, there's Friends from their teens, Paul Ryan and Tom Stephens are here in plenty of time to let one's mind wander. It's almost meditative,

town on day 26 of their amazing biking journey from Canterbury in continues Tom.the UK to Rome, following the 2000 kilometre Via Francigena. Charting our course every day has been a surprise. In Australia The ancient pilgrims' route has taken them across the English you might have two or three roads that lead into a town. In France it Channel, into northern France, along the Somme, through the might be 53. We have spent many hours charting our way each day, World War I battlefields, across the Swiss Alps and into Italy's occasionally adding a few extra kilometres in detours, laughs Paul.Aosta valley. They have stayed in hostels, pilgrim refuges and accommodation

We started out not knowing much about cycling, bike offered by a network of fellow cyclists. They are overwhelmed maintenance, or even the Via Francigena. We'd done a little bit of with how friendly and generous people have been along the way. weekend cycling in Australia. Riding our bikes through Europe With no rental cars, no tolls, and no fuel bills, their trip hasn't seemed like a good idea at the time over a couple of beers, says broken the budget either. The journey is surprisingly free of stress, Paul, as his friend Tom breaks into a wise smile. says Tom.

So far they have had four flat tires, seven broken spokes and three With nine days to go before they wheel into Rome and complete spills. They have gone through countless tubes of sun-screen, their pilgrimage, they say the worst is over. There are no more battled a few days of rain and lost one wallet. They both nod their mountains, the sun is shining, and travelling through Tuscany will heads in unison when I ask if they have enjoyed the ride so far. be a highlight of their trip.

Although, if we'd known some of the mountains to be climbed, I Green rolling hills, pencil pines, and fine wines – it's a pretty am not sure we'd be here. It's not just the altitude. In some places good combination, Paul says as he stretches back in his chair, the wind is so fierce it's like cycling standing still. On these visualising this last stage of their impressive journey. occasions I'm glad to have 30 kg of gear strapped to my bike to We are happy pellegrini.keep me upright, says Tom. – by Jane Cotter

The Via Francigena: UK to Italy


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Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday

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In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

MarketsGeneral markets Books and prints Pescia 4th SundayLucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Querceta Saturday morningsLucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month.Lucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to Saturday Antiques Arts & CraftB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m.

Altopascio 2nd Sunday Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsPonte a Moriano Tues a.m.

Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m.Pietrasanta 1st SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Barga 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersTonfano Sat a.m.

Castelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday mornings

Pescia Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd Sunday

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Where to Stay in LuccaGrapevine recently conducted an informal survey among foreign residents and visitors regarding local bed and breakfasts and hotels.

Here are some that received positive comments. The listing is not in any special order.

1. 16. Via del Duomo 3, 0583 955813, [email protected]). Via della Cavallerizza 12, 0583 48477, [email protected] 17. Via A. Mordini 63, 0583 403228, [email protected]

2. Via del Fosso 26, 0583 47615, 18. Via della Zecca 33, 0583 496665, [email protected] [email protected]

3. Via Fillungo 12, 0583 493634, [email protected] 19. Corso Garibaldi 19, 0583 464218, [email protected]. Via S. Anastasio 23, 0583 440275, [email protected]

20. Via S. Giustina 30, 0583 587964, 5. Via S. Paolino 103, 0583 317446,

[email protected]@sanlucapalace.com

21. Via Angelo Custode 16, 0583 440170, 6. Via S. Giustina 48, 0583 583571, [email protected]@hotelpalazzoalexander.it

22. Corte Portici 16, 0583 490748, 7. Via del Anfiteatro 25, 338 3707483, [email protected]@tin.it8. Via Angeli 23, 0583 469204,

[email protected] 23. Via della Polveriera 6, 338 5880982, 9. Piazza San Pietro Somaldi 4, 0583 469049, [email protected]

[email protected] 24. Via Molinetto 11, 0583 467795, [email protected]. Piazza San Pietro Somaldi 5, 0583 48427,

[email protected] OUTSIDE THE WALLS11. Via Michele Rosi 93, 339 6328832,

25. Via S. Marco 368, 0583 495010, [email protected]

[email protected]. Via Galli Tassi 85, 0583 53579, [email protected]. Via Romana 1247, 0583 4991, 13. Via di Poggio 9, 0583 55421, [email protected]

[email protected]. Vicolo delle Ventaglie 2, 0583 464175, [email protected]. Via Pisana Trav. II 74, Santa Anna, 0583 311022, 15. Via della Dogana 9, 0583 469181,

[email protected]@albergosanmartino.it

Youth Hostel, Ostello San Frediano B & B Il Duomo.

B & B La Magnolia.Hotel Ilaria + Residenza dell’Alba. B & B La Gemma di Elena.

Hotel La Luna. Relais Inn Lucca.Hotel Noblesse.

B & B Petit Maison Sainte Justine.San Luca Palace Hotel.

B & B La Colonna.Hotel Palazzo Alexander.

Residenza Centro Storico.Anfiteatro B & B.Hotel Alla Corte degli Angeli.

B & B Le Violette.B & B Corte dei Nobili.

Hotel Diana.B & B Dimora dei Guelfi.

B & B Casa San Jacopo al Giardino.Hotel San Marco.

B & B Caterina.Grand Hotel Guinigi (Best Western).Piccolo Hotel Puccini.

B & B La Romea.Affittacamere Stella. Hotel San Martino.

(good prices, good food, lovely

Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDRAPEVINE Magazine

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L. Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584 AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org 757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma.

SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Pisa:photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 O. Ponte a Moriano

Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. 450278. Barga: T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18.

Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. 467205. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.

490530, [email protected], P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo Prato:

www.museocattedrale.lucca.it dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music. U. Palazzo Pretorio.

G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.www.palazzopretorio.prato.it

H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Galleria Pza. San Rocco. V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.

H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.it55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.

I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. Florence:J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.orgJ2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116. X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & www.unannodarte.itJ3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. 10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Forte dei Marmi: Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. 280292, www.villabertelli.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

www.guccimuseo.comto midnight.

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Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

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Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

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3 5.30pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini & Fortezza di Mont’Alfonso at 9.15pm. Young Talents concerts, IAM Festival.8.30pm, Viaregglio, Piazza SS. Annunziata. Gaudats Junk Band (ecological & recycled).9.15pm, AML Pieve a Elici, concert by violinist Sergej Krylov accompanied by pianist Beatrice Magnani performing Stravinsky & Kreisle. Details on page 2.9.30pm, Montecarlo Jazz & Wine in Piazza Francesco Carrara. CLJ Quintet. See article on page 20.

109.15pm, Parish Church of San Michele di Corsanico. Homage to Francis Poulenc. Corsanico Organ Festival.

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9pm, Lucca Summer Festival. Beth Hart & Marcus Miller. www.summer-festival.com

9.15pm, Badia di Camaiore. Concert by Lorenzo Ghielmi. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

129pm, Lucca Summer Festival. Lionel Richie & Earth, Wind & Fire. www.summer-festival.com

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209pm, Lucca

9pm, Viareggio, Talent Show

Summer Festival. Anastacia & Simply Red. www.summer-festival.com

www.summer-festival.com

26 279pm, Lucca Summer Festival. Edoardo Bennato. www.summer-festival.com

199pm, Viareggio, Talent Show www.summer-festival.com

69.15pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Teatro Vittorio Alfieri. German Romanticism concert, IAM Festival.

49pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini Final evening of the music competition, IAM Festival.

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5.30pm, Lucca, Sala Ademollo in Palazzo Ducale. Grand Gala, IAM Festival.

9.15pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Cappuccini Church. Tra Vienna & Moscow concert, IAM Festival.

179pm, Camaiore, Church of San Lazzaro. Concert by Stefano Pellini (organ), Pietro Tagliaferri (sax). www.camaioreorganfestival.it9pm, Lucca Summer Festival. Rap music.9.15pm, Pieve a Elici, AML concert by the Parma Trio with music by Schubert & chamber music. Details on page 2.9.30pm, Montecarlo Jazz & Wine in Piazza Francesco Carrara. Marco Cattani Latin Jazz. See article on page 20.

249.15pm, Pieve a Elici, AML concert by the Venice Quartet performing music by Beethoven. Details on page 2.

9.15pm, Church of Pruno (Stazzema). Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. Serchio delle Muse.

Minucciano, Val Serenaia, Rifugio Orto di Donna. High Notes 2016. Classic, jazz & folk music. Tel.347 3663542, www.rifugialpiapuane.it Reserve at [email protected], Oratorio degli Angeli Custode. Classes, rehearsals & concerts of the Lucca International Music Festival. July 24-31. www.Accademia-dEstate-Internazionale-Lucca.org

319.15pm, Pieve a Elici, AML concert. Pianist Andrea Lucchesini performing Liszt & Chopin. Details on page 2.9.15pm, Borgo a Mozzano, Piazza del Mercato. Verdi’s Rigoletto, semi-staged version. Serchio delle Muse.

9.30pm, Lucca Botanical Gardens. The Singing of Trees. Nympheas, performance of music & colors. Sounds by Lara Panicucci, Piero Bronzi, Dilvio Bernardi & Claudio Riggio. Colors by Giada Matteoli.

Wed Mon Tues

To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off.

Music & Theatre

July 2016Sunday

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEVINWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Coming Up

Da Ferruccio Busoni alla Musica Contemporanea 1 Aug 2016, 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini, Auditorium Enrico Caruso.

Puccini Days 25 Nov 2015 to 8 Jan 2017. Tickets on sale beginning July 1st. See June Grapevine for details.

Puccini Postcards in Piazza Cittadella. Music from the operas. Aug. 4 6pm, Tosca. Sept. 1 6pm, La Bohème. Tickets available at Teatro del Giglio.

219pm, Lucca Summer Festival. Negromara. www.summer-festival.com

Porretta Soul, 21 to 24 July. www.porrettasoulfestival.it

288pm, Casoli di Camaiore, Parish Church. Concert by Enrico Barsanti. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

22 9pm, Lucca Botanical Gardens. The Singing of Trees. Parole migranti, songs & words of migrants - sefardite, rebetiche & others. By M° Stefano Albarello.9pm, Lucca

Pza V. Emanuele II. Canta la Montagna. Choruses: Voci del Serchio, Valle del Pelago (Modena) & Lunigiana. 9.15pm, Pianacci (Villa Collemandina). Opera buffa performance. Serchio delle Muse.

Summer Festival. Comedian Beppe Grillo. www.summer-festival.com9pm, Castiglione di Garfagnana,

299.30pm, Lucca Botanical Gardens. The Singing of Trees. Virtuoso & bel canto. Voces Intimae with Riccardo Cecchetti (piano), Luigi de Filippo (violin), Sandro Meo (cello). In collaboration with Teatro del Giglio.

Torre del Lago Puccini Festival, Madama Butterfly.

309.15pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Piazza delle Erbe. Verdi’s Rigoletto semi-staged version. Serchio delle Muse.

9.15pm, Parish church of San Michele di Corsanico. Marvels of the Venetian Baroque. Corsanico Organ Festival.

9.15pm, Ponte a Serraglio (Bagni di Lucca). Fratelli Turini organ played by organist Enrico Barsanti, with flautist Luca Bacci.

Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Festival for teachers & children. Assoc. MescenesXXI France, Coro Collegiata S. Andrea, Filarmonica G. Puccini. 30 July to 5 August.

239pm, Lucca

9pm, Pisa. Talent Show9.15pm, Sillano. Opera buffa performance. Serchio delle Muse.

Summer Festival. Marco Mengoni. Minucciano, Val Serenaia, Rifugio Orto di Donna. High Notes 2016. Classic, jazz & folk music below Pizzo d’Uccello. Tel.347 3663542, www.rifugialpiapuane.it Reserve at [email protected]

www.summer-festival.com

9.15pm, Parish church of San Michele di Corsanico. Soprano & Organ concert. Corsanico Organ Festival.

76pm, Lucca, Puccini Postcards in Piazza Cittadella. Music from the opera Butterfly. Tickets available at Teatro del Giglio.

9.15pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Teatro Vittorio Alfieri. Concert & Final Ceremony, IAM Festival.

89.30pm, Lucca Botanical Gardens. The Singing of Trees. Una Serata all’Opera by the Accademia Vocale di M° Lorenzo Malfatti.

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9pm, Lucca, San Francesco Church. Concert celebrating the restoration of the church. M° Renato Serio with a suite dedicated to the Beatles. Free tickets available at Teatro del Giglio 10.30am to 1pm on the same day. www.fondazionecarilucca.it10pm, Castenuovo di Garfagnana, Piazza Umberto I. Amores Tangos Quartet from Buenos Aires. 9

9pm, Lucca

9.15pm, Pieve a Elici, AML concert by pianist Martina Filjak performing Haydn, Liszt, Bach & Donizetti. See details on page 2.

Pistoia Blues. 9 to 16 July. www.pistoiablues.com

Summer Festival.Van Morrison & Tom Jones. www.summer-festival.com

9pm, Vagli di Sotto, Public Swimming Pool. Life on the Sea offers a concert for research into multiple sclerosis. Tel. 3471012733, 3385275544.

2 5.30pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini. Pianist Aleksandr Bolotin for Festival IAM.9pm, Via S. Nicolao 63, Alba Church. Lucca Chamber Music Recital. Every Saturday until 3 Sept. www.luccachambermusicfestival.com

149pm, Borgo a Mozzano, M. Salotti Scuola Civica di Musica. Chamber Music with Guitar.

Friday Saturday Thu

159.30pm, Lucca Botanical Gardens. The Singing of Trees. Sulle strade del Medioevo. Medieval songs & dances by the Compagnia della Bizzaria d’Amore.

?pm, Concerti degli Angeli Custodi. Homage to Alexandre Tansman. S. Rugani, F. Gatti,T. Petrucci (piano, flute, guitar).

9pm, Villafranca, Piazza del Pozzo Filetto. Life on the Sea presents a concert to support research into multiple sclerosis. Tenor Francesco Zingariello, soprano Katia Ricciarelli. Tel. 347 1012733, 338 5275544.

169.15pm, Parish Church of San Michele di Corsanico. Giancarlo Parodi, guest performer. Corsanico Organ Festival.

9pm, Lucca

9.30pm, Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli (Via Mazzini 200). Genesis guitarist Steve Hackett & Acoustic Trio. www.cttnord.it

Summer Festival. Neil Young & Promise of the Real (the band of Willie Nelson’s son Lukas). www.summer-festival.com

Puccinielasualucca for its spring/summer season offers daily concerts

at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the door.

[email protected]

or call 340 8106042

RAPEVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

The Singing of the Trees. weekly until 26 August. Concerts at Lucca’s Botanical Gardens.

Serchio delle Muse Festival continues in August & September.

Montecatini Opera Festival, Terme Excelsior. 15 Apr/14 October.

Casa Pascoli, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 10 August 9pm. Pamela Villoresi & Alessandro Bertolucci read Pascoli’s poetry in an evening of poetry, music & dance, including Ensemble Le Muse. Artistic director Luigi Roni. Evening entitled Omaggio al Poeta e alla Cultura dei Popoli della Terra (theme: Europe). Tel. 348 7505767. www.casapascoli.it

AML concerts at Pieve a Elici continue in August. Details on page 2.

Montecarlo Jazz & Wine continues. 14,21,28 August. Details on page 20.

Marina di Pietrasanta. La Versiliana Festival, in the pine forest near the beach. This year with 9 Shakespearean plays. Throughout July & August. www.laversilianafestival.it

Music & 2016

ulyTheatre

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ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:

Vorno, Lido di Camaiore,

Pisa,

Pisa,

Lido di Camaiore,

Pisa

Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE. Assemblaggi prvvisori, provisional assemblages. 2 July to 10 September. Performances, concerts, installations, exhibitions, lectures, workshops, children’s theatre. Tel. 0583 971125, www.delloscompiglio.org

Palazzo Blu & Museo della Grafica. Smarrimenti (Confusions) by Guido Scarabottolo. Designs & sketches inspired by the first terzina of the Divina

Dune Hotel. Personal exhibition by Matteo & Giorgio Commedia. 26 May to 10 Sept. Piccaia. Until 31 August.

Galileo Airport. Henraux Foundation’s VolareArte, 3rd ed. Park Eun Sun presents 9 monumental sculptures. www.toscana-aeroporti.com Until 2017.

Barga, Villa Via Sacra, Via delle Mura 12. Lux Seminalis - Semi di Luce. Paintings & sculptures in glass by Gabriele Wilpers. 10am to noon, 4pm to 6pm. 19 June to 15 September. Tel. 0583 711517, www.mounttabor.it

Hotel Club I Pini, Via Roma Capitale 265. Personal exhibition by Annamaria Buonamici. In collaboration with Mercurio. 6.30pm to 11.30pm daily. 28 May to 30 September. www.clubipini.com/artinclub4

Piazza dei Miracoli & throughout the city. Toccare il Tempo (Touch time), Sculptures by Kan Yasuda. 30 June to 16 October.

,

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

3LAST DAY: Palazzo of the Banca del Monte di Lucca Foundation, Piazza San Martino 7. Artist Giancarlo Vitali, CIRCO_STANZE. See article in June Grapevine.

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Montecarlo, LAST DAY:

Carlo IV in Italia, historical exhibit. Tel. 0583 229725 (Town of Montecarlo).

26 Pisa, LAST DAY: Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. 16th to 19th century portraits of the Del Testa Family. Also, an exhibit dedicated to Il Gioco del Ponte (1935-1962 re-enactments). [email protected]

27

17 LAST DAY: Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Scuderie Granducali. Un obiettivo &

quattro mani (a lens & 4 hands). Photography by Uliano Lucas, paintings by Lucio Cerioli & Enrico Ristori. Thursdays to Sundays from noon to 8pm.

18 19 20

12 13

24LAST DAY: Firenze, Palazzo Strozzi. From Kandinsky to Pollock, the great art of the Guggenheim. 10am to 8pm daily, Thurs. to 11pm. www.palazzostrozzi.org

31LAST DAY:

OPENING:

TODAY:

Cortona,

Lucca,

Lucca,

Museum of the Etruscan Academy & of Cortona, Piazza Signorelli,9. Etruscans, Masters of Writing. See article in April Grapevine.

Palazzo Ducale, Ex-Cavallerizia & many piazzas. Cartasia biennial art fair dedicated to the paper industry. Until 10 Sept. www.cartasia.it

Baluardo San Colombano & others. Histrionika street art & itinerant theatre.

6

10LAST DAY:

ONE DAY ONLY:

Lucca,

Bagni di Lucca (Ponte a Serraglio),

Oratory of San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli 5. Silent Places, photos by Riccardo Manca. Open daily 10am to 12 noon, 3pm to 6pm.

9th Extemporaneous painting day, Colore & Sapori. At 8am in Villa Fiori Park artists can register by having their canvas stamped. Enrollment with picnic, €15. 4pm, artwork on display. 6pm, awards. Tel. 0583 87934, 348 7749227.

Wed TuesMon Sunday

July 2016, Exhibitions

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To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendar

• Tokyo, • Venice,

• Vicenza,

• Venice, Este, Adria, • Cremona,

• Pompeii,

• Bologna,

Venetian Renaissance Paintings form the Accademia Gallery. Accademia Gallery, Campo della Carità, Dorsoduro. Seven new 500th anniversary of the 1866 friendship treaty between Japan & Italy. National exhibit rooms in the Canonici Lateranensi. The rooms house 1700s-1800s Art Center of Tokyo, 13 July to 10 October 2016. National Art Museum of Venetian art. Especially worth mentioning are Canaletto’s Prospettiva con Osaka, 22 October 2016 to 15 January 2017. www.galleriaaccademia.it Portico and Gianbattista Pittoni’s Annunciazione (1758).

Nella mente di Vincenzo Scamozzi (1548-1616), an intellectual architect of the late Renaissance. Until 25 Nov.

Marvels of the State of Chu. Until 25 Sept.

Archaeological Site, Sculptures by Igor Mitoraj. From mid-May to January 2017. See article in May Grapevine.

Archaeological Museum, Via dell’Archiginnasio 2. Egypt, Millenarian Splendor. Masterpieces from Leiden in Bologna. Until 17 July. www.mostraegitto.it

Palladio Museum.

http://www.palladiomuseum.org/exhibitions

Museo del Violino. Janello Torriani, Genius of the Renaissance. 10 September to 29 January. Torriani was an incredible creator of machinery & acclaimed inventor. www.fondazionebracco.com

RAPEVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

28

22

29Torre del Lago, Kan Yasuda’s sculptures will embellish the environment for Madama Butterfly.

14

6 7

8Lucca, LuccaLibriOPENING: 6pm Literary Caffé, Viale

Margherita 137 (outside Porta San Pietro). Exhibition by Montecarlo artist Roberto Pasquinelli. Catalog by Grapevine Editions. Tel. 0583 469627. See page 19 for more information.

2Porcari,OPENING: Fondazione Lazzareschi. “Six” Collection of

Contemporary Art by Daniela Caciagli, Riccardo Corti, Marco Manzella, Guido Morelli, Armando Orfeo, Valente Taddei. Inauguration 6pm 2 July. Tuesdays to Saturdays 4pm to 7pm. Catalog by Mercurio arte contemporanea.

9

Seravezza,

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca,

OPENING:

OPENING:

OPENING:

Watercolour painting holiday workshop 9 to 16 July at the with Amanda Brett. Tel. 345 8781719, www.amandabrett.net

Watermill in Tuscany,

Palazzo Mediceo. Primo Conti, un enfant prodige all’alba del Novecento (a prodigy at the dawn of the 1900’s). Until 2 October.

Palazzo delle Esposizione, Piazza San Martino. Louis Christian Hess & Italy, In Search of Paradise. Until 31 July.

23

30LAST DAY: Altopascio, La Magione del Tau (a tavern for tasting traditional products & wines), Piazza Ricasoli 7. Photographic exhibit Van Gogh ultimo atto 1887-1890 by Massimo Nardi. Open daily except Tuesdays, 5pm to 1am.

Saturday Thu

15Ghivizzano (Coreglia Antelminelli),LAST DAY: Galleria Ars

Nova, Personal photography exhibit, La Strada by Enzo Giuntoli. Tel. 0583 78152, www.comune.coreglia.lu.it

16OPENING: Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Fortezza di Mont’Alfonso, Via Careggine. 500 Years of Orlando Furioso (publ. 1516). Exhibits, film, conference & Renaissance market. Until 31 October.

Friday

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1Pietrasanta,

Lu.C.C.A. Museum,

OPENING:

OPENING:

6pm Via del Teatro 32.

4pm Via della Fratta 36. Magnum sul Set. Great photographers & cinema. 116 backstage photos from City Lights, Moby Dick, The Trial, Planet of the Apes, Zabriskie Point, Rebel without a Cause, The Seven-Year Itch. Until 13 Nov.10am to 7pm, closed Mondays.

Tajental Events present Albero & Anima, Tree & Soul, by Livorno artist Alice Piazza. Until 30 Sept.

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July 2016, Exhibitio

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TRADITIONS, FAIRS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS CHILDREN

CONFERENCES

CINEMA

COMING UP

LUCCA San Paolino (patron saint of Lucca) historic re-enactment, Palio & crossbow competitions. 12 July.

LUCCA, Loggiato Pretorio, Piazza San Michele. ExtraLucca Summer Edition (ELSE). Tastings in English & Italian of oils from cultivators throughout Italy. The author of the initiative is Fausto

13 June to 31 July. 9-12.30 weekdays. Ages 5 to 12. Borella, president of the Accademia Maestro d’olio. 12 noon to Tel. 0583 312911.5pm, 1 to 31 July. Tel. 0583 495164, www.extralucca.it

TASSIGNANO (Capannori) Polo culturale Artemisia. Nati a Leggere (born to read). English & Italian for children ages 3 to 6. Beginning 29 June. Tel. 0583 936427.

MARINA DI PISATeatrino del sole (Sun Theatre) with puppets & marionettes. Performances 8,15,22,29 July & 5,12 August. Tel. 345 5004682.

Cinema Estate, 9pm. End of June until late August, open-air GALLICANOfilms nightly at Villa Bottini (entrance Via del Fosso). Some in Palio di San Jacopo. Competition for the cencio. 16 & 25 July. English or subtitled. Rain location: Cinema Moderno, Via Vittorio www.paliodisanjacopo.itEmanuele II, 17.

CASCIO (Molazzana)TASSIGNANO, Polo Artemisia. Cinema under the Stars. 6 July 29,30,31 July. Sagra delle Crisciolette. to 25 August, 9.30pm. Beginning with Zootropolis by Bryon Howard on 6 July.FABBRICHE DI VERGEMOLI

2-3July, Archeotrek at Monte Forato & Parco del Battiferro. FIRENZEBARGA2.30 meeting at Fornovolasco, excursion with guide €35. Cinema Odeon, Palazzo Strozzi. Original language films with Live in Barga Festival, 2nd half of July.Overnight at Ostello Alpi Apuane tel. 340 3678469 or Rifugio La Italian subtitles. Tel. 055 214068.Fish & Chips, 27 July to 18 August at the town stadium. On Buca 0583 722013. www.odeonfirenze.com, [email protected] 27 July, 3 & 10 August the proceeds will be given to

GVS, Arca della Valle & the Misericordia.CASTELNUOVO DI GARFAGNANA2-3 July, Centro Storico, Street Love Art, Food & Music Festival.

PEGNANA (Barga) Ferragosto, 15 August, is a national holiday. Many areas have Località Al Piano. Sagra 1 to 3 July, with grilled meats & pasta GRAGNANELLA (Castelnuovo di Garfagnana)celebrations. We mention here only Camaiore, fritta, necci with ricotta, etc. 15 to 17 July at 8pm. Pizza in Piazza for Telethon. Live music with its Follie di Ferragosto.

each evening with Emma Morton on 16 July. www.gragnanella.itFORNOVOLASCO

Nozzano, The Castle Lives Again, medieval festival, first week-11 July, Alpi Apuane Skyrace (trail race in an area of great natural PALLEROSO (Castelnuovo di Garfagnana) end in September. beauty) 347 3796343. www.gpparcoalpiapuane.it16 July 7pm, 17 July 2pm. Antico Borgo in Festa. Farmers’ din-

ner (farro, maccheroni, cold plate, trippa), with country market & Montecarlo, Calice di Stelle (Wineglasses under the Stars), 6 to lunch the next day. Accordion players & much more. Tel. 347 24 August. See article on page 20.3402001, www.palleroso.net

VILLA COLLEMANDINA2 July, 8pm, Località Valligori, Tastings (Asado) with Amores Tangos.9-10 July, 7.30pm. Loc. Valligori, Pazzi per la Pizza (crazy for pizza). Pizza Sagra. Tel. 346 35305529.

LUCCAMimosa Bilingual Summer Camp 4 to 30 July. Mondays to SAN PELLEGRINO IN ALPE (Castiglione di Garfagnana)Fridays 8am to 6pm for children 3 to 11 years. Tel. 0583 462019. 23 July 4pm, Luna Piena (full moon) in Festa at Rifugio See details on page 23.Burigone: Sounds & Stories from Lucca Legends. Guided ex-

cursion beginning at the Sanctuario di San Pellegrino, InAcademy (San Concordio) English Language Summer apericena & concert. Tel. 333 8231582.camp.

RIANA (Fosciandora)2-3 July 7.30pm, Sapore & Calici (Foods & Wines) in this an-

CAPANNORI cient town, under the stars. All inclusive, €17 for a complete Summer in Villa from May to September. Events promoting his- menu. Tel. 393 1083794.toric homes in the area, with visits, sport, foods, music, etc. Ufficio Marketing Territoriale tel. 0583 428588. BAGNI DI LUCCA

3 July 9am at Circolo dei Forestieri. Classic Cars Rally, €20 for CASCINA DI BUTI (Pisa) panoramic excursion & lunch. Call Roberto at 338 5816608 or Sagra of frogs (ranocchio) & soup. 2-3 July. Moreno at 349 2253769.

Soffitte in Strada (Street Market), 31 July. To participate, 0583 809908 (up to 5 days before the market). www.prolocobagnidilucca.it

BENABBIO10 July, Castello di Lupari Archaeological Park. Sagra with baccalà & alternative menu. Navette from the Proloco below the

FORTE DEI MARMI castle for those who prefer not to walk. www.benabbio.itFireworks at the beach (Pontile). 9 & 23 July. 10pm.

PIAZZA AL SERCHIOLIVORNO 13th Accordion Festival. 1, 2,3 July Friday 9.30pm international

accordion performers. Saturday fish sagra at 7.30pm. Sunday Effetto Venezia, 27 to 31 July. Energetic festival along the ca-Spectacle under the Stars at 9pm. Tel. 327 7662640.nals of the old Medici district. www.effetto.venezia.it

Piazza Bechelli, Piazza al Serchio. 16 July, Color Vibe 5K. Race, Colors, Music, Entertainment. Village party begins at 10am, race begins at 5pm, color party from 5.30pm on. Tel. 338 9519729, 346 8298256, www.colorvibe.it

23-24 July, Piazza al Serchio, San Michele. Medieval Festival beginning 7pm Saturday with balestrieri from Vicaria Val di Lima, falconry, dances, medieval scenes, fire games & battle of the bridge. Sunday, beginning at 6pm games for old & young, snack at the Osteria del Brigante. With balestrieri & historic groups in performance. 7.30pm, itinerant dinner in the village streets.

LAGO DI GRAMOLAZZO (Minucciano)29,30,31 July. 10th Laghi della Garfagnana national motorcycle rally. Beginning 3pm on Friday. Info: [email protected] www.lakesbikers.it

VAGLI SOTTO17 July. From Lago Vagli to Campocatino. Foot races (10.2km). Enrollment (€5) from 8am, departure 9.30am. Tel. 339 5411889. Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Piazza S. Martino 7. Lunch reservations also accepted. www.gsorecchiella.comPIEVE FOSCIANA Encounters with Excellence (conferences in Italian). Serge

Piazza dei Bersaglieri, Raviolo Sagra. 1,2,3,8,9 July. Friday Latouch 12 Sept. & Lamberto Maffei 18 Nov. Reservations: tel. SANT’ANASTASIO (Piazza al Serchio)disco music, Sat. karaoke, Sunday JAM concert. 8 July features 0583 450261. [email protected] 9-10 July. Le Contee del Farro (Counties of Spelt). Beginning at 1970s-80s music & 9 July ballo liscio. Food stands open at 7pm.4pm with Mass & 6pm with traditional handicrafts. At 7pm the Night of shooting stars (Night of San Lorenzo), 10 August. grappa & beer stands open. Passagiata Mangiareccio (Walking Time to go star gazing!Meal) from Sant’Anastasio to Petrognola with locals wearing 1940’s peasant dress. €18 (children 12 & under, €10). Followed Santa Croce Procession, Il Volto Santo (Lucca) 13 Sept. by the Cantafole (Garfagnana dialectical verse) & other activi- Lucchesi from all the world return home for this ceremony. Streets ties. Tel. 327 4754869, www.prolocopiazzaalserchio.it. are lit by thousands of candles for the event. Fireworks follow.

MONTECARLO weekends July/August: theater, concerts, jazz & wine, art displays. 700th anniversary celebrations for Carlo IV. On 24 July, Fiat 500 car rally. Piazza Carrara is usually closed to

LUCCAtraffic for these events but the hill-town is easily accessible from

On 2 July, Palazzo Mansi & Villa Guinigi open their doors in its parking lot & bus stops down the hill (wear appropriate

Lucca from 7.30pm to 10.30pm, for the symbolic price of €1 (free shoes). www.comune.montecarlo.lu.it under 18). On the same day, there are laboratories for children &

families & the possibility of bringing questions or comments to the director (4.30pm to 6.30pm). From 5pm to 8.30pm, there are 2 guided visits: From Etruscan to Longobard Civilization & The Archaeological Collections of Villa Guinigi National Museum.

21July 9pm. La vita segreta delle piante. Conference at Lucca’s Orto Botanico by Marco Pardini.

VILLA BASILICA Shelley House celebrates the poet with a Shelley Festival on 10 July. Contrada Valleriana products & Mysteries of the 6,8,9,19,22,23 & 25 July in Viareggio & Bagni di Lucca. On 27 Longobards. Wine tastings. July, Rebecca Palagi will offer a scenic reading at Rome’s

Keats-Shelley House. The festival continues in August & GHIVIZZANO September. Tel. 0584 1841768. www.cinquemarzo.com31 July Tripe Sagra & Corrida (competition of local talents). Tel. 347 7444979.


Artist Roberto Pasquinelli will be presenting his paintings from Montecarlo, along with the catalog recently published by Grapevine

Walking along the Via del Fosso in the late Editions, at LuccaLibri Literary afternoon, you might see this bird, who Caffè (Viale Regina Margherita regularly goes fishing in the canal. 137, outside the city walls near Photographer Franco Freuli caught him with an Porta San Pietro) on Friday 8 July eel in his beak, strolling casually up the road. at 6.30 pm.You never know who you’re going to run into!

Introduction by Gilberto BediniComments by editor Norma Jean BishopInterview with the artist by Piera Teglia

Musical intermezzo by harpist Anna-Livia WalkerAperitivo


Cruciword

June solution

ACROSS DOWN1 Portare (5) 1 Bacchus (5)4 Alzati! (5,2) 2 Imitare (7)8 Little Mexican dog; 3 He wrote Macbeth, Othello, etc.

canino messicano (9) (8,5)9, 4 down 4 See 9 across (7)

Yuck! How disgusting! (3,6) 5 Una danza macabra (1,5,2,5)10 Just now (3) 6 Dukes (5)11 Efficace (9) 7 He foresees (7)12 Dormire (5) 12 Satire (7)13 Stanlio e _____ (5) 14 See 16 across16, 14 down 15 Andare a vela a (4,2)

Vivere e lasciare vivere (2,4,3,3,4) 17 Latino (5)18 Between (3) 19 Argo (5)20 Ratto (3)21 Riaffittando; rilasciando (9)22 St Vitus; where the Ultras come from

(3,4)23 Tacchi (5)

Clues in English have Italian answers and clues in Italian have English answersCompiled by Helen Askham

B R E A D S O S OJ R R A C M FU N I C O R N A M O R EV D E T L K DE R G O D E L P I E R O

E S E RM E S S A D I G L O R I AA D N IR I F F R A F F A C M EI A I E A O XT A R G A R I C O R D IO R N N N D T

P O L O O M E G A

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

10 11

12 13 14

15

16 17 18 19

20 21

22 23

Watch Out forWild Nature in Lucca

Vernissage

19

Cantine Aperte

prosciutto. Some charge a nominal fee for antine Aperte, Open Cellars the glass, etc. You can always contact a to you and me, is a super way winery in advance and arrange a formal to explore Italy and sample C both local food and wines. It wine tasting. Whilst there you will be able to learn about their vinification and ageing has been held for over 20 years, where techniques as well as view some awe-member wineries of Movimento Turismo inspiring cellars. We have rarely been del Vino open their doors to the public, disappointed and the hospitality often generally on the last Sunday in May but exceeds expectations, along with having also later in the summer.the opportunity to visit some amazing We have used it as an opportunity to “workplaces”. These range from the have a weekend break, choosing a ancient Etruscan tombs of Montalcino, to different region each year. So far, we've state-of-the-art architectural statements in travelled to Montepulciano and Piemonte and Bolgheri, with the scale of Montalcino, Bolgheri, Piemonte, Friuli, operations ranging from those producing Valpolicella, Lucca and Carmignano. in excess of 100,000 bottles per year down Once we've selected the region we'd like to a family concern producing 30,000. All to visit, the website can help in deciding these aspects enhance the experience. which participating wineries to sample.

For sure, not every wine you taste will Try as you might, three or four is the suit you, but when you do enjoy it, make most you want to attempt in a day, a purchase, take it home and enjoy it a although having a couple in reserve may few months – or years – later. It won't fail be worthwhile for the really hardy to both enhance your meal and bring amongst you! Whilst the event is back memories of a great weekend away officially on the Sunday, there are with some friends.opportunities in the days preceding, so

There are numerous other wine events we've refined our techniques over the both local and national throughout the years, such that we meet in a good local year – Calici di Stelle in August and in enoteca and sample a glass each (or September the Cantine Aperte in more!) of local wines. Having passed Vendemmia. The Movimento Turismo del them round the table, points are given Vino website (www.movimentoturismo and we can refine our itinerary. It's a very delvino.it) will point you in the right civilised way to get the weekend going.direction. As I mentioned earlier, a quick There are many agriturismi to choose phone call or email to the winery of your from, ideal for such a weekend, offering choice is worthwhile, as some are more an opportunity perhaps to even stay at geared up for visitors than others. one of the vineyards and also sit outside

In the meantime, we look forward to after a hard day at the wineries, enjoying next May's foray!some local food and wine.

Many of the wineries do not charge and – by Jonathan Inghamprovide simple local cheeses or

THE EVENTS WILL TAKE PLACE IN PIAZZA FRANCESCO CARRARA

FROM 9.30 PM, WITH FREE ADMISSION

AND THE POSSIBILITY OF WINE-TASTINGS.

Don't miss Calice di Stelle (Wineglasses under the Stars),

6 to 24 August throughout Italy. Locally you can enjoy beautiful nights

with Jazz & Wine (Sundays 3 July to 28 August)

at historical Montecarlo, which is also celebrating Carlo IV this year.


Farm tourismCottages to rent by the week

Home produced wine, oil, honey, pasta and flourIdeal for wedding receptions or wine tastings

ruce Singer, an American, was born in 1943 and died at A letter to David:his home in Sant' Andrea di Compito on 25 September 2015. His memorial party was held in the ballroom of a It was a tribute to your deep friendship with Bruce that we were B rather grand frantoio on the road to Pontedera, with some witness to yesterday. We thought the scattering of the ashes in the

thirty close friends attending. The affair was catered and the group olive grove where he could join his beloved mother at last was very was entertained by three musicians: Maria Luigia Borsi (soprano), moving and inspiring. Brad and Maria Luigia were fantastic, plus Brad Repp (violinist) and Aldo Gentileschi (pianist). Later all Aldo, always with a humorous twist.returned to Bruce's house, and his ashes were scattered in his olive It was a perfect venue, delicious cibo, and your perfectly pitched grove, where he had done the same with his mother's ashes. eulogy, glorious music, and the famous rummage through the

Bruce lived and worked in Paris for some twenty years, first with music and CDs. I am playing one of Bruce’s CDs as I write. I think the International Herald Tribune, then with the cosmetic firm of him every day as I wear his shoes, and Jeremy his blue cotton L'Oreal as a consultant for their grant-giving program for young workman's coat. You were ably supported by Alyssia and Pavel, women around the world interested in careers in science. Three and Marta has obviously been a tower of strength too on the legal years ago he retired to his home in Lucca. side and general good friend.

– by David Finkbeiner We have marvelled at your amazing efforts after dear Bruce's sudden death and hope you realise how much we admire what you have done. We miss him so much, and as you said, your Winter friend is no longer here. Thank you so much for everything; it has been sometimes impossibly hard dealing with red tape, language, and time consuming too; we have all been astonished by the complexity of the problem, and you gave so much of yourself to dealing with it.

You are a true and valued friend to all of us, and in particular, Bruce. May he rest in peace in his beautiful olive grove, may you have a lovely summer at your easel, and we hope to see you when we return in mid-July,

from your good friends, Mandy and Jeremy

Remembering Bruce

Books in English in Lucca Cohen and Paul Gervais to the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca was officially inaugurated at the Agorà Library (with a slight delay while several of us were being O freed from a blocked elevator by the fire department). A list of the books in the

collection (over 2000 in all) will soon be available on the Grapevine website. Once these books have been catalogued into the Italian library system, they will be available for loan both locally and throughout Italy. Thanks are due to Gil and Paul, but also to Donna Pilletere and Maria Allwine, who helped Grapevine prepare the preliminary catalogue, necessary in order for the Foundation to accept this gift. Future donations are welcome; please contact Grapevine.

n 28 June at noon, the English language book collection generously donated by Gil

This book collection has been generously donated to theFondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca

by Paul Gervais and Gil Cohen,with the assistance of Grapevine Magazine.

The Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca is pleased to offer the collection to the City of Lucca, for the use of its citizens and visitors.

Questa collezione è stata generosamente donata allaFondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca

da Paul Gervais e Gil Cohen,grazie alla collaborazione di Grapevine Magazine.

La Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca ha il piacere di offrire l’uso della collezionealla Città di Lucca, per i suoi cittadini e visitatori.

Grapevine will be cataloging Bruce's book collection, a gift to the local English-speaking

community. This is a valued contribution, which gives the international community of Lucca an

ever-expanding source of good reading.

Left to right:Deputy Mayor Ilaria Vietina,Gil Cohen,Editor Norma Jean Bishop,Exiting FBML president Alberto Del Carlo,Paul Gervais,Entering FBML president Oriano Landucci


on the wall of the Agorà:

nce in a while, we read about seismic zones with vague ideas as to what this terminology really means. O Then it suddenly becomes crystal

clear when important earthquakes like the ones in Aquila or Emilia Romagna make national headlines with their devastating images of death, injury and widespread destruction as people are left homeless, jobless and living in fear. Italy as a country is very prone to earthquakes. This is mainly due to the Apennine mountain range running down the length of Italy like a spinal cord where two tectonic plates of the Earth's crust collide and occasionally release energy that we call earthquakes. A staggering 57% of Italy is classified as earthquake prone with about 300 minor earthquakes which ensures that all parts of the building meet current codes. registered throughout Tuscany every year. So what does this mean This design happens in the case of new builds or conversion when buying or restoring a house? Are there things that you need to projects such as barns to dwellings. check? What are the chances of an earthquake occurring and what The majority of overseas buyers are interested in older should you be doing now to avoid trouble? buildings full of character and charm. The key to making an old

Earthquakes don't discriminate by country but more so by the building more earthquake resistant is to tie it together as much as location of man-made structures. The effects of earthquakes possible and not to weaken the walls or floors with breakthroughs having exactly the same intensity can vary significantly. If an or additional loadings. This means that the wall intersections are earthquake occurs in an area with predominantly single storey well connected to each other, as are the floors and roof to walls ... wooden houses, we may have reduced effects, as wood is somewhat like the rigidness of a box with a lid. Old houses are relatively light and flexible and can perhaps handle the shaking made of masonry, which works well under compression, but are better. If we take the same intensity and apply it to an old Italian hopeless when subject to tension. Steel does a great job under the village made up of heavy and brittle stone structures, the shaking pulling forces of tension making tie irons a common and effective effects may cause utter devastation. The ground on which the remedy to hold the walls together which is why we see their structure sits can heavily influence the effects of an earthquake as employment on old facades.it can amplify or contain the shaking. Structures on hard rock will Earthquakes cannot be predicted but we can only draw be subject to quick short movements and those located on low- conclusions based on statistical data. If we take a glance at the lying silt areas may trigger a greater impact. So ultimately, the Tuscany area we see places like Mugello that was hit by a 6.2 damage depends on three factors: the intensity of the earthquake, magnitude earthquake in 1919. A year later in 1920, a 6.4 the type of structure impacted and the ground on which it sits. earthquake devastated much of the Lunigiana and Garfagnana

Throughout Italy, each municipality has a seismic classification areas. More recently, in 1995, Lunigiana was hit once again by a and falls within seismic zones ranging from 1 to 4, where 1 is the magnitude 5.0 earthquake and in 2001 the Sansepolcro area in highest risk and 4 is the lowest. Tuscany only has seismic zones 2, Arezzo and Mugello area had 4.3 and 4.2 earthquakes, respectively 3 and 4. Regulations require that restoration projects undergo a . Over the past 3 years both the Garfagnana and Lunigiana areas seismic design, which gets submitted to the Office of Civil have been hit with earthquakes ranging from 4.0 to 5.2 in Engineering (genio civile). For seismic zone 2, this public entity magnitude and even the Chianti area has been shaken by a 4.1 in sends out an inspector and works are subject to an authorization, 2014. which usually takes about 60 days to obtain. In zones 2 and 3, For those of us coming from non-seismic areas of the world, all works can commence immediately after the design submittal is of this sounds very alien and somewhat shocking! The reality is done by an engineer. that earthquakes have always been a part of living in Italy,

There are three types of seismic design submittals. The most many medieval towns stand to this very day. We need to accept this straightforward design is referred to as a localized design fact and manage the effects just like they do in other places like (intervento locale), which simply ensures that the affected area California or Japan. So the next time you undertake a restoration has its strength replenished once we apply additional loadings on project, remember that anti-seismic design is an important piece of floors or do breakthroughs in load-bearing walls. This can be the puzzle and goes well beyond another piece of red tape!accomplished using embedded frame for wall openings or shear bolts and structural screeds in the case of floors. The second type of design is referred to as a seismic improvement (miglioramento sismico). This takes a broader look at the structure in terms of foundations, walls, floors and roofs and ensures that we are improving the resistance of the structure to an earthquake and is applied when we carry out more extensive works. The third design is for a comprehensive overhaul (adeguamento sismico),

yet

David Collins, an engineer by profession, has lived and worked in Tuscany for over 20 years. He manages Our Toscana providing house surveys, plans & permits and undertakes all kinds of restoration projects throughout Tuscany. David is author of Buying & Restoring in Tuscany – A Practical Guide and lives near Lucca with his Italian wife and two children.

For information:


When Things Get Shaky!

Dear Friends, we have barely entered into the Summer period. We are no longer accustomed to a long Spring now that hot temperatures tend to begin in May, which gives the impression

that we are already in Summer. So this year for many of us it seemed that Summer didn't want to arrive. Yet here we are in July, and according to the local weather center this month will probably bring us seasonally average temperatures and rainfalls.

As always we have plenty to do. We need to remember that the most important thing for our plants is water, especially if they are growing in vases. The lawns need to be watered and cared for, because the high temperatures can often cause fungal problems, which show up in various ways (yellow or brown are stretching out, extending their vegetation after flowering. We spots on the lawn, lines of yellow in the grass, etc.). Using a variety need to intervene, perhaps keeping the fresh tendrils and of tactics and cures, we can try to contain these problems. It's best to attaching them where we want them to grow, while shortening or water the lawn early in the morning, so that the roots have enough to cutting off any excess. In this way, besides keeping the plant in drink throughout the heat of the day, and so that droplets don’t order, we can also stimulate it to produce flowering branches remain on the grass blades (otherwise funguses can develop). As next season.soon as the sun touches the grass, these drops dry up. Other things to Speaking of climbers, towards the end of this month a sweet little remember while carrying out maintenance interventions are: to cut plant will make itself noticed for its beauty and long flowering the grass when it's dry, from late morning on, so that the cut grass period. This is the Ipomea (Morning Glory), a plant that belongs to blades can heal more quickly and be less likely to develop diseases; the Convolvulaceae family, which in its natural state may also to not leave cut grass lying on the lawn; to apply a high-potassium presents itself as a bush, perennial or evergreen. In our area it is fertilizer in late Spring, since this will help strengthen the grass usually cultivated as a seasonal plant, but it can sometimes survive fibers, making them stronger and less sensitive to any fungal a winter that is not too cold, especially if we place it in a sheltered attacks. area with good light (the plant can resist temperatures as low as 5 to

If, despite all this attention, our lawns still show signs of illness, 7 degrees, if the cold doesn't last too long). It likes sunny areas, is we can proceed with the right cures, using products from the not afraid of the most stifling heat, and prefers a soft, well-drained garden centers. To optimize results, we should follow the correct soil (it's a good idea to mix universal loam with some little pieces procedures during the treatment phase: apply products to the lawn of pumice stone). It can also be grown in vases, if these are large only when a disease is present; treat the lawn when the grass is dry enough. The plant should be placed near a structure to climb upon and during the cooler hours of the day; use the correct dosages and (gazebo, pergola, gate, etc.). In very short time it will manage to follow the instructions on the package; don't water the lawn in the travel and envelop the desired structure. With its beautiful hours immediately after treatment (wait about 6 to 10 hours). variously-shaped leaves, some even heart-shaped, and its lovely

Friends, if we want to maintain our lawns in good condition colorful bells, it will bring cheer to our Summer days.throughout the Summer, we should keep an eye on them and react Happy gardening to all!as necessary, not only looking at the grass but also 360 degrees around, sending the needed information to our brains and our – by Simone Lippihearts in order to understand where in the garden to react. For 0583 316713 or 335 8354437example, in this season some climbing plants (wisteria, ivy, etc.) www.ilcerchioverde.it


July’s Glories

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Nina

good match. Now Nina is a town dog with a couch at home that is wearing a black raincoat and droplets were pouring off her hers alone. She lies down with a deep sigh and stretches out whiskers. As soon as she entered the shop, Nina laid down contentedly, just as she did in the store, happy to be appreciated I and stretched out, looking a bit depressed by the weather. for her peaceful nature. Her mistress' voice is resonant with kind

Despite gentle persuasion and a few tugs on her leash, her owner words and soothing tones. For Nina, a daily romp outside the could not make her change position. So instead she took the walls is all she needs to be happy. That and the loving indulgence opportunity to tell us Nina's story. of her owner.

Like many hunting dogs who end up living in the public Spinone dogs (also known as griffons) make fine truffle kennels, Nina had experienced a rough life. Even though she hunters, although twenty years ago Peter Mayle, who lives in the couldn't talk, her background could be read in her eyes. She had Luberon region of France, wrote in his famous and funny book been mauled by a wild boar once and was lucky to escape with her Toujours Provence that pigs are even better than dogs for hunting life (the doctors told this to her new owner). After that experience, truffles. But that’s another story.since Nina was no longer useful as a hunting dog, she had been You can't help but smile when Nina passes you on the streets of relegated to the dog “shelter”. Shelter is a pitiful word for a run Lucca. Visit the dog shelters, in Pontetetto and elsewhere, and that probably includes a cement floor and no roof, but sheltered you might be lucky enough to adopt a special someone, too. On she was, for many years. Then, when she was about 12 years old, the other hand, you might decide to become a regular visitor, her life finally took a more positive turn. signing up as a volunteer dog walker. Either way, your life will be

Nina's owner, also emerging from several years of medical better for it.treatments, heard about Nina and decided that they would be a – by Norma Jean Bishop

met Nina in a little shop on a rainy day in May. She was

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Manish's Zodiacal Predictions for July(Predictions are based on the planets' alignments at our location here in Tuscany.)

Aries (21 March – 19 April) This should prove relations with others. Your powers of magnetism Capricorn (22 December – 19 January) You to be an exciting, busy and fruitful month. Your and charm are at a high. You begin to feel like may feel restricted by pressures from an intimate life seems to speed up and you find that you lose your projects and business activities are moving partner. Issues of trust and control come into some of your skepticism, cautiousness, and fear forward. Opportunities to travel are very likely. play. Adjustments need to be made in your of taking risks. You're finding brand-new ways Virgo (23 August – 22 September) You have the intimate relationships in order to get to a “place” of expressing yourself and this could leave a few tools to improve your income at this time and the where you feel more free to relax.heads spinning. problems that crop up only serve to push you in Aquarius (20 January – 18 February) This Taurus (20 April – 20 May) You can benefit the right direction, towards financial independ- month is all about focusing on the future and greatly from any form of self-improvement ence. Do whatever it takes to make adjustments moving forward with confidence and self belief. techniques. Inner strength and control is the to move toward a more self-sufficient position. You will feel more dynamic and determined than name of the game and this is an ideal time to Libra (23 September – 22 October) Enriching you can remember ever feeling before. You will develop these qualities. Business endeavours your social circle is bound to expand your have a new level of financial security that allows will go smoothly for you if you recognize the happiness and satisfaction from more broad- you to follow your ambitionsvalue of the team at this time. ranging experiences and perspectives. Social Pisces (19 February – 20 March) You'll get a Gemini (21 May – 20 June) You stand to widen activity increases and you enjoy greater freedom chance to overhaul your finances and your love-your social circle, update your skills, communi- of thought, inspiration and fresh ideas and life and make headway at work. This burst of cate more effectively, and read even more than insights that seem to come out of the blue. fiery energy will be put to good use in the home you do now. Opportunities pop up that allow you Scorpio (23 October – 21 November) This is as well. There will be useful challenges enabling to expand your personal influence. You are power time for attracting money, love, and plea- you to cut the deadwood out of your life.bound to interact more and enjoy friends' com- sure into your life. You will keep dreaming and pany more freely than usual. planning for the future. You may meet new Cancer (21 June – 22 July) This is an excellent acquaintances who help you to further your period for you to get in touch with yourself – goals, or you could join a new group that gives what you truly want from life, and just how much you considerable satisfaction.power and strength you possess. Take the time to Sagittarius (22 November – 21 December) This reflect on your life rather than forging forward is an excellent period for finances. You discover and putting your foot in your mouth. However, untapped resources. Money comes from try not to be over-sensitive. unexpected sources, or simply flows well and is Leo (23 July – 22 August) This is a good month in abundance. Expect excitement and change for attracting what you want and improving your with regards to close personal relationships.

.

Manish Kumar Arora is a renowned KP Astrologer, Numerologist, Tarot Reader & Vastu Consultant. He has been conferred with the title of 'Jyotish Varahamihir' and 'Jyotish Aryabhatt.' He writes monthly astrological columns for many international magazines.

For information: [email protected]

www.facebook.com/manishastroconsultant


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Santa Maria Del Giudice 8km south of Lucca, 12km from Pisa. Main house with 3 double beds, 2 baths, large living room. Across internal courtyard an inde-pendent 2 bed apartment with terrace, ideal for holiday let. Taverna and laun-dry room. Total 180 sqm. €360,000. Info: [email protected] (Ref. 1131)

Santa Maria Del Giudice 8km south of Lucca, 12km from Pisa. Main house with 3 double beds, 2 baths, large living room. Across internal courtyard an inde-pendent 2 bed apartment with terrace, ideal for holiday let. Taverna and laun-dry room. Total 180 sqm. €360,000. Info: [email protected] (Ref. 1131)

Villina delle Rose near San Macario, 15 km west of Lucca and 15 km east of Camaiore beach, is a beautiful 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom home with terrace. Garden, orchard (esp. cherries) and olives. 100+ sqm house, 20 sqm garage/annex, 1500 sqm land. 235,000 euros. 333 8617962. (Ref. 1114)

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Farmhouses in Forci estate. For long rental beautifully restored 1500's resi-dence of 533 mq on 2 floors: 5 large bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, living rooms, kitchen. Beautiful panoramic view. The house has a dependance of 190 mq. Ground floor: 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, living room with open kitchen; [email protected] floor: large open space with big furnished kitchen. Other accommoda-tion available. [email protected] Tel. +39 0583 349 007. (Ref. 1089)

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Farmhouses in Forci estate. For long rental beautifully restored 1500's resi-dence of 533 mq on 2 floors: 5 large bedrooms, 4 ½ baths, living rooms, kitchen. Beautiful panoramic view. Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. The house has a dependance of 190 Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional mq. Ground floor: 2 bedrooms, 2 packing and export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional baths, living room with open kitchen; Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. first floor: large open space with big (Ref. 771)furnished kitchen. Other accommoda-tion available. [email protected] Tel. +39 0583 349 007. (Ref. 1089)

Vacation Apartment Rental. Inside Lucca Walls. Available July 25 to Aug. 27. Two double bedrooms, one bath. Bright, new interior. Photos available. Weekly €700, monthly €2,600. [email protected], +39 331 8346850 (Ref. 1136)

Your personal Lucchese chef offers cooking lesson + dinner inside the city walls. A great way to learn Italian + cooking tips at the same time. Max. 4 persons per session. Simonetta 340 1559665 (Ref. 1132)Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers in-dividual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)Chiropractor Cynthia Christensen, DC. Esculapio Centro Medico. Viale S. Concordio 665, 55100 Lucca. Cell 340 4142329.Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected] Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected]

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

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Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Lawyer Daniela Forti. My law firm is located in the beautiful art town of Pietrasanta (Lucca). In 2016 I obtained the international certification TOLES

FOR SALEBEDS FOR SALE 2 charming English pine single sleigh beds 190cm long. Painted pale blue. Good quality mattresses. Available from 9th July. Email [email protected] for further details. (Ref. 1126)


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