march 2019 ggrraappeevviinn tuscany’s ee - lucca grapevine · 2019-03-04 · 2 tuscany’s g...

GRAPEVINEGRAPEVINETUSCANY’S

March 2019 € 2.50

MAGAZINE

with the sponsorship of

The magazine for those who live in Tuscany – or wish they did

The magazine for those who live in Tuscany – or wish they did

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 20192

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Monday to Sunday 10am to 2.30pm. Afternoon classes upon request. Info: www.cucina-italiana.com Via di Sant’Alessio no. 3684, Lucca Tel 0583 329970 – 338 6718641

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La Cantina Di Carignano

Tuscan Sun Apartments

Restaurant Tasting menus

Contents

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2019

Art/Music/Books/Beauty

Traditions & History

Excursions

Practical

Spotlight

What’s On In & Around

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals, Classifieds

Palazzo Blu 8Festa della Donna at Bagni di Lucca 10Book Review: La Toscana giorno per giorno 10

The Fortress of Tereglio 6Altri Tempi ... Anni Fa ... This Old House 20

Pescia’s Ten Castles 19

Grapevine featured in La Nazione 5

11-18

4,

celebrates 10 years of exhibitions

Signing up for Health Care 22Taking out the Trash in Lucca 22

9

11,14

23

Cover:Lucca Skies

Torre delle Ore by Thomas S. England

Have a guided photo tour of Lucca with photojournalist Thomas S. England. Learn how to improve your photosusing any camera or smartphone.

Four hour lessons, in English, customized to your skill level. We begin on a rooftop terrace featuring amazing views of Lucca, then walk the streets to create memorable photos.

Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean BishopMichael BoydChiara CalabreseJudith EdwardsThomas S. EnglandMorena GuarnaschelliSwietlan Nicholas KraczynaSimone LippiSue PerryFrancis PettittDonna PilletereJenny SchutzMaria Tsaousidou

Marketing & DistributionClaudia CasoliDiana GattiNicola GirolamiSilvano Simi

2019March

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine by Grapevine EditionsRegistered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A. Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016. Printed by Colorpix srl - Pistoia (PT).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed within a frame contain paid submissions. Unsigned articles are by the Editors.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

closed Sunday eveningand Monday

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2019 4

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Dear Readers and Friends,

As you can see by the page from

La Nazione (right) our magazine is

getting noticed by Italians! At the reques

– –

– Norma

t

of some of you, we offer you the translated

version of this article on the facing page, with a few

inserted comments. All in all, very satisfying, especially in this

25th anniversary year of Grapevine!

In March we look forward to more glorious sunny days like

the second half of February, which enhance our pleasure in living

here. Walking the walls provides views in all directions, and soon

we can look forward to the Spring flower shows coming in April.

This month our articles will carry you on winged prose to

amazing and little known places in the surrounding hills:

Tereglio, the Pescia castles, and Barga, where an old house

enchants its owners. Other articles feature the «high» art shown

at Palazzo Blu in Pisa, and the somewhat lesser-known art on

display at Bagni di Lucca. Then sit down with a bump, to read

about some more practical matters.

For those who want to learn Italian and who doesn't?

don't miss the mention of a fascinating book about Tuscan history,

by Florentine Eugenio Giani.

Finally, we mustn't forget to plan ahead. Already several

people have requested tickets for the operas Aida by Verdi and

Turandot by Puccini, on 2 and 17 August, respectively. What is

special is crossing the lake at sunset, enjoying the buffet on board

and the narration by the boatman, then returning under the

moonlight enchanted by musical echoes floating through our minds

and hearts. If you would like to join us, see the Coming Up

section of What's On.

Have a beautiful springtime!

Foreigners Love this TownItalian-American Norma Jean Bishop of Grapevine, the English language monthly magazine


the first issue of Grapevine, October 1994

rapevine (ed. note*: Tuscany's Grapevine Magazine), the English language monthly G magazine «for those who live in

Tuscany or wish they did» as is written on every cover, has reached 25 years of age. This will be celebrated in October, says the editor, Norma Jean Bishop, a woman with dual citizenship, Italian and American, who after travelling the world has settled here in Lucca, fascinated by its beauties. Here among other things she works on publishing Grapevine, which has many collaborators, volunteers not only English or American (we could was in the U. S. Coast Guard and we were often transferred. I lived add a few other nationalities here …), but also Italian. On the in Alaska, Hawaii, Colorado, New York, Washington, D.C. … and cover of the last edition is a carnival float from Viareggio. Within, in Paris and Tuscany. At 19 years of age I was in Florence, where I there is an ample discussion of this event, and the magazine is not studied at University. One day I took off by bicycle for Torre del lacking in articles on art, music, books, history, traditions, Lago, and I arrived at Lucca (sleeping at the youth hostel outside excursions, sport, food, home, and gardens. Then there are the walls before continuing on to the coast the next day). I was advertisements, above all for buying and selling homes, but also immediately enchanted by the town's beauty, and I told myself notices and opinions by experts in various sectors, and meetings that one day I should return to live here. And so I came here to live of groups for conversation in English and for exchanging news. with my daughter who now is a harpist, and my son, a bartender.

On the cover is also a small logo from the town of Lucca, a In American I earned a Ph.D. in Comparative Literature, but patron (the Italian word is patrocinio, official recognition that diplomas earned in America can't be used for work here (unless does not include financial support). The readers are not only they are legally converted and recognized, a tedious and time-English and American (to repeat, we could add a few other consuming procedure). However, I kept busy. In America I had nationalities here …), but also other foreigners who use English majored in journalism (later transferring to languages and as a second language. Grapevine, which is read throughout the literature) at the Newhouse Journalism Program (of Syracuse world, has its editorial office on the ground floor at Via University) in New York State. Years later, I took courses in dell’Angelo Custode 3A, in a room adorned with many beautiful writing filmscripts (at UCLA, by correspondence). things – paintings, photographs, and other objects. The magazine What attracted you most to Lucca? Lucca is an ideal city costs 2.50 euros and is printed in several thousand copies. There is (in Italian, città virtuosa). Foreigners remain fascinated by this also an online version with a subscription cost of 24 euros per town because the rhythms of life are still human. One breathes in year. It was the property of the Simi-Jarman family from 1994 to art (and music) at every corner. Then there are the old palaces, and 2015 with Susan Jarman. Then it passed to (technically speaking, the walls. And the countryside is marvelous. I who have travelled the old business closed and a new business began) Norma Jean in many parts of the world found here a more human pace, no Bishop, who is also the editor of books such as the recent one by comparison to New York, which “never sleeps”. The Lucchesi are David Collins, a guide for purchasing and restoring property in reserved but also cordial. I have made many friends here.Tuscany. Norma is also a translator (and tutor). If you could make a suggestion to the administration

here? I would suggest paying more attention to the city center, to make it more lively and more accessible with businesses more available to customers, a center that considers the elderly, responding to their needs, but also the needs of young people. (I also suggested paying more attention to the periphery, just outside the walls.)

Regarding young people, your magazine welcomes them willingly, doesn't it? We have had students from the Liceo Scientifico writing in English. In February we hosted an article by

Why was this magazine created 25 years ago? It was to fill a void. The many foreigners in Tuscany, but especially Lucca and its region, needed a magazine that talked about the places where they lived, furnished them with precious information, put them in touch with people who shared common interests, and talked about art, music, and culture. Then too, 25 years ago Facebook did not exist. Over the years we have grown and our magazine is beautiful also thanks to the photographs of Thomas (S. England, and others). In periods of crisis we have thought about making just an online magazine, but I like the printed page. a young Greek girl through the Erasmus program, Maria

The title Grapevine is somewhat unusual. In English the Tsaousidou. Chiara Calabrese wrote about the difficulties of word means vine, but above all hearsay or news. This title was Amadou Iamarana Sow, coming from Guinea to Lucca.chosen in reference also to a famous song from the Sixties by the Something you are proud of? A journalism prize from American singer Marvin Gaye, “I heard it through the grapevine” Montecarlo, a stupendous place that is famous for its wine, and a (the news reached me). The song is like a soundtrack for our poetry prize from Bagni di Lucca, where I lived for a while.magazine.

How is it that you, Norma, came to our town? I was born in *Comments in italics, which are not the words of the authorSan Diego, California, to an Italian mother and American father. Oriano De Ranieri, have been added in this English version by Of necessity, from the time I was little I travelled a lot. My father Norma. Thank you Oriano, Grapevine is honored!

This is the English version of an article

by Oriano De Ranieri published in La Nazione, one of Lucca’s two daily

newspapers, on Sunday 17 February 2019.


The Fortress of Tereglio

ll along the Serchio River, north of Lucca and as far as the Lunigiana region, we can see stalwart fortress towns that for the most part maintain their historic integrity. These A were a string of defensive structures built to protect against invasions over

the centuries. Tereglio, current population 150 (give or take a few souls) and under the legal jurisdiction of nearby Coreglia Antelminelli, was one of these strongholds.

Not too many travellers stop in at Tereglio (alt. 550 meters), instead they usually turn right at the fork leading to Orrido di Botri, a canyonland and protected natural territory just a few kilometers further up the road.

We made our first trip here shortly after Epiphany, when the town was still dotted with charmingly handmade nativity scenes. Posters for the Befana’s visit had not yet been taken down. The presence of mountain bikes testified to strong-legged visitors. It was one of those bright, clear winter days when breathing in fresh air was a welcome change of pace from town life. A month later, in February, we decided to return. Meandering through the narrow streets, where small Pandas and Jeeps or even smaller three-wheeled Apes (photo bottom left, page 7) can navigate but rarely do, we were struck by the quiet timelessness of the place. Only two cats interrupted the stillness.

For both visits we chose to eat lunch at a small cafè-restaurant, «Da Elena», just below the parish church. Beginning with delicious crostini with warm mushrooms

(photo below), we then enjoyed the local pasta dishes of tordelli and

maccheroni. Our friend declared the trippa «excellent» (though this is a dish I can never vouch for), while a cheerful fire and some red wine warmed the room. Fortified, we went for a closer look at the fortress, passing once again through the doorway at «Il Fortino» (photo above).

LUCCA


Tereglio can be reached by car in about an hour. Driving towards Bagni di Lucca, we turn left at Fornoli and continue a few kilometers along the river. At the roundabout, take the turnoff to the right (marked Tereglio, though this is difficult to notice). From here we continue climbing a winding but not too narrow road for about 9 km, heading gently uphill until we reach Tereglio. Turning to the right, one can continue on for De Michele Restaurant and Orrido di Botri Canyon, about 10 km further on. We park at the bottom of the village and walk up into Tereglio, or there are two parking areas higher up, and another below, at the sports-pitch (accessible if you take the Vitiana turnoff below the village).

Without a car, we can travel by train to Ghivizzano (about 30 minutes of beautiful scenery), then take local buses for the last 9 or 10 km. This requires advance planning, since there aren’t very many trains and buses, especially on Sundays.

– photos by Maria Tsaousidou & Norma Jean Bishop

Historical notes: Remains of a Ligurian necropolis were uncovered below Tereglio a few years ago. The first written documentation is from Bishop Geremia in 856, registering Tereglio’s Santa Maria Church. The fortress, built in approximately 1200, was destroyed about 80 years later. We saw a door stoop with carved letters in what seemed to be a mixture of old Latin and Greek, containing the date 1219. This might have been from the fortress.

As well as the fort which today still surrounds the residents, the other notable building is the parish church, Santa Maria Assunta, which contains a precious painted wooden crucifix made by Berlinghieri in the early 1200s. Watching over the church is a monument to fallen soldiers from the so-called Great War (WW I).

For hundreds of years, Florentines and Lucchesi fought to control this strategic location. The condottiere Francesco Castracani degli Antelminelli, cousin of the more famous Castruccio, fought here on behalf the Ghibellines and against the Florentines, and as a reward was named Viceroy to the larger town of Coreglia, a few kilometers away. In 1437, Francesco Sforza took Tereglio for the Florentines, assaulting and sacking the castle. Between 1819 and 1824, Maria Luisa Duchess of Borbone had architect Giacomo Marracci work on a road to connect this valley (Val Fegana) with the Duchy of Modena, across La Foce a Giovo. More recently, in 2014, the invasion of the Austrian army (First World War) was re-enacted near the town. It must have been a lively and colorful event, though remembering wars and attacks can’t be very pleasant, except for children at play.... In 2013 Tereglio hosted a cello seminar, which culminated with a concert in the church, and last July there was a lavender-picking festival.... So not all of Tereglio’s history is war-torn. At the center of town, a plaque honors Giovanni Giannini (1793-1871), a folklorist who collected popular traditions, songs, and dialectical verse. It seems that Maria Luisa di Borbone stayed at Casa Giannini when she visited the roadworks in 1820.

I wonder what Maria Luisa and Giovanni might have said to each other.

Celebrates ten years of exhibitions

Palazzo Blu

Everything tends to make us believe that there exists a certain point of the mind

at which life and death, the real and the imagined, past and future, the

communicable and the incommunicable, high and low, cease to be perceived as

contradictions. – André Breton, Second Manifesto of

Surrealism, 1930

isiting this exhibition, Magritte to Duchamp, 1929 (on display from October 2018 to February V 2019) of artworks on loan from

Paris' Centre Pompidou, I was transfixed by both the art and the era in which it was made. The year 1929 was the high point for this speculative, playful, anti-elitist, sometimes sadistic and Lack of logic or reason, collage, and hallucinogenic shocking kind of art. The artists themselves (Duchamp, distortions were new approaches. Feet that are also shoes Magritte, Dalì, Man Ray, Arp, Picasso, Ernst, Giacometti, (painting by Magritte, center) may strike us as a kind of sci-fi Calder, Pierre Roy …) emerged after the First World War and the possibility. The foreground image of a wineglass with a small collapse of Wall Street. In contrast to earlier artists such as those chateau in the background, by Pierre Roy (below center) now fails of the Renaissance, they were not idealistic about humanity and to surprise, in our 21st-century world when everyone has access beauty. They held various political positions, not all of these to photo-montage and computer techniques. necessarily anti-elitist, though their overall approach to artistic Contacts with non-European art also influenced the artistic creation was. Consider Duchamp's “ready-made” of Leonardo's canon. Giacometti's sculpture ( left) follows Bamako Mona Lisa for example: he drew a moustache and beard on the (Mali) tradition. The Chimère by Max Ernst postcard, then named the “artwork” L.H.O.O.Q., which when borrows from Greek mythology.pronounced in French sounds like Elle a chaud Among the unexpected forms of art au cul. This was a crude joke, de-sanctifying the on display at Palazzo Blu, both visual idea of “high art”. and textual, I came upon this humoristic

The artists were also strongly influenced by definition of Surrealism from the maga-the technological and scientific developments of zine Variètes, April 1929 (translated their time. Automatic photo machines were used from French):to create a cheap series of funny or banal Brawls, expressions (reminding me of scenes in the

Deeply disturbing objectsFrench film Amélie, from 2001). Using

Fantastic paintings,photographic film, Man Ray and others created strange and super-imposed images that jolted The poetry of the half-asleep stateobservers into new modes of perception. Rudeness

Of course we have to mention Café revolutionariespsychoanalysis, the interpretation of

The snobbery of madnessdreams, and mental sciences. Cine-matography was a new, malleable way Automatic writingto evoke these. Scenes from Buñuel and Die hard anticlericalismDalì's film Un chien andalou shocked

Germanic disciplineviewers. In the same film, a close-up of Exhibitionism,a hand filled with small black ants, play-

ing with our powers of perception, Unfunny jokes.alluded to the crowd scene in a film by

– by Norma Jean BishopSergei Eisenstein.

below (below right)

If you missed the exhibition, you can still buy the catalogue

(250 pages, € 35) at the Palazzo Blu Bookshop.

Palazzo Blu's upcoming exhibition, from National Geographic and NASA, is entitled Conquest of the Solar System and Beyond (22 March-21 July).

The Palazzo houses a permanent exhibition for the building, its history and furnishings, and the Italian art collection (1300s to 1900s), property of the

Cassa di Risparmio di Pisa.

The Palazzo's facade is indeed blue.

See this beautiful building with its bookshop, cafè, lectures, and children's projects, along the Arno near La Spina Church.

www.palazzoblu.it


GRAPEVINEMarch 2019

pull-out events calendar

9Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2019 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

General markets Books and prints Arts and craftsLucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Corte del Biancone DailyLucca, S. Francesco. fruits/vegetables Wed 4-7pmLucca, Corso Garibaldi 2nd weekend of the monthLucca, near the fairground Wed & Sat a.m.

Antiques Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayPonte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday

Plants and flowersForte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday S. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsPietrasanta 1st SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m. Pietrasanta 3rd SundayBarga 2nd Sunday

Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday Markets in Florence (the biggest)

Tonfano Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed SundaysCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

Ma

rke

ts

VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

Have you been here yet?(Via S. Andrea 56, Lucca)

Did you know that the combustion engine was developed in Lucca c.1854?

Don’t miss the Camelia Festival in Capannori’s

Compitese hills.Horticulture, tea,

performances. Weekends from

16 March to 7 April.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2019 10 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

10 119pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Concert by the Leonard Quartet: Ieuan Jones, Emanuela Degli Esposti, Laura Papeschi, Agatha Bocedi (harps).

12

13

18

259.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Prose theare. Decameron. A comic Italian tale from the plague years. Fondazione Toscana Spettacolo. Tickets on sale at Montecarlo, Via Carmignani 14, Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm. Tel. 0583 229725.

209.45am, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Aida & il bambino che sognava l’opera. www.luccateatrofestival.it

69.15, Lucca, Piazza Antelminelli, Oratorio di San Giuseppe. Osmanngold Swing Orchestra soloists & soloists of puccinielasualucca celebrating 16 years of activity.9.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Prose theare. Storia di un naufragio. Re-interpretation of a story by Joseph Conrad. Fondazione Toscana Spettacolo. Tickets on sale at Montecarlo, Via Carmignani 14, Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm. Tel. 0583 229725.

4 534pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio prose season: Piccoli Crimini Coniugali.

3.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Edipo Re & La voix humaine. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

174pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. La bohème.

5pm, Lucca, San Lucca Palace Hotel, Saletta Catalani Via San Paolino 103. Film:L’Acqua Cheta (1908/1974, Florentine vernacular theatre). Projection by Circolo Amici della Musica A. Catalani & Ezechiele 25/17 Cineforum. Free admission with reservation: tel. 3479951581.

Wed Mon Tues Sunday

199.45am, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Zuppa di sasso. For children & adults. www.luccateatrofestival.it

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Dance season: Gershwin Suite, Schubert Frames.

9pm, Lucca Duomo. Idaho (USA) College Chamber Singers choral concert. https://700musicalucca.com

26279.45am, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Biancaneve, la vera storia. For children & adults. www.luccateatrofestival.it11am, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Il tenace soldatino di stagno e altri storie. www.luccateatrofestival.it

314pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Shrek il Musical.

5.30pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Tastierissima, 4 encounters to disover the piano, with Fabrizio Giovannelli. Final encounter 6 April).

Music & TheatreMarch 2019

244pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio prose season: I Fratelli Karamazov.

4.30pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Youth Guitar Orchestra (40 elements).

5pm, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Guitar Ensemble Brandenburg Concertos.

TEATRO DEL GIGLIO 2019 SEASON:Dance season: 4 April 9pm. Night Garden. The box office is open Wednesdays to Saturdays 10.30am to 1pm & 3 to 6pm.9pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. 4 & 18 April. Altri percorsi, performances to be announced. www.teatrodelcarretto.itLucca, Piazza del Suffragio, Boccherini Auditorium. 10 April, 9pm, Boccherini Orchestra in a concert dedicated to Nino Rota. See article in February Grapevine.Lucca, Beginning in April, free Choral Singing Workshop for those wishing to participate in the Concerto per San Michele, 21 Sept. 2019. Tel. 338 4302525 for information.C

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The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

Puccinielasualucca for its winter season (1 November to 31 March)offers concerts on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays

at the Oratorio di San Giuseppe at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the door, or call 340 8106042.

[email protected]

or call 340 8106042


219.45am, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Ballata d’autunno. For children & adults. www.luccateatrofestival.it2.30pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Il gatto con gli stivali. www.luccateatrofestival.it5.30pm, Lucca, San Micheletto, Sala Convegni «Vincenzo da Massa Carrara». Conference: Giachino racconta Rossini, by Daniele Carnini, Fondazione Rossini, Pesaro.

6pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Guitar trial.

226pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Conference, La polifonia nelle Fughe per liuto di Bach. Tillman Hopstock.9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio prose season. I Fratelli Karamazov.9pm, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Bach Marathan 4. Petra Polackova, guitar.9pm, Lucca, Palazzo Ducale, Sala dell’Ademollo. Rossini Evening. Six Complete Sonatas, with the Quartetto Rossini. Concert organized by Animando & Musica con le Ali (Music with Wings).9.45pm. Lucca, Antico Caffè delle Mura. Ludovico Fulci Quartet. Free with consumption. Every week until June. Reservations: 334 3412486. FB / caffè delle Mura Lucca

234pm, Lucca, Palazzo Ducale, Sala Ademollo. Strappa le corde alla chitarra mia. Portraits with guitar: Velasquez & others. Stefano Albarello & Mauro Lovi. https://700musicalucca.com

6pm, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Bach Marathon 5 (violin).7.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta Dello Scompiglio SPE, Via di Vorno 67. Requiem. www.delloscompiglio.org

9pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Bach Marathon 6 (violin).

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio prose season: I Fratelli Karamazov.

75.30pm, 6pm. Lucca, Via Fillungo. San Cristoforo Church. Festival della Sintesi. Opening with Etymos Ensemble, The wagons, coordinated by Girolamo Deraco. www.dilloinsintesi.it

San Pietro a Vico, Via dell’Acquacalda 2480. Ristorante-Pizzeria Granaio. Doppio Diesis - Marco Bianchi (trumpet) & Massimo Rapezzi (piano) in a jazz repertoire. Tel. 0583 997131.

89.45pm. Lucca, Antico Caffè delle Mura. Italian swing with Rossano Giusfredi piano, Daniela Acquaviva voice, Piero Di Marco trumpet, Vittorio Barsotti drums, Daniele Micheli double bass. Free with consumption. Reservations: 334 3412486.

19pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio prose season: Piccoli Crimini Coniugali.

8.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Edipo Re & La voix humaine. www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

26pm, Lucca, Auditorium Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Piazza San Martino 7. Flavia Piccinii interviews actors Michele Placido & Anna Bonaiuto, before their performance in Piccoli Crimini Coniugali (aperitivo follows).. 9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio prose season: Piccoli Crimini Coniugali.

149pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Altri percorsi, performances to be announced. www.teatrodelcarretto.it

Friday Thu

159.45pm. Lucca, Antico Caffè delle Mura. Homage to Giorgio Gaber. Giulio D'Agnello voice & guitar, Antonello Solinas bass, Diego Guarino drums. Free with consumption. Reservations: 334 3412486. FB / caffè delle Mura Lucca9.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Prose theare. Roger. A play about Swiss tennis great Roger Federer. Fondazione Toscana Spettacolo. Tickets on sale at Montecarlo, Via Carmignani 14, Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm. Tel. 0583 229725.

165.30pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Tastierissima, 4 encounters to disover the piano, with Fabrizio Giovannelli.

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. La bohème.

95.30pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium. Tastierissima, 4 encounters to disover the piano, with Fabrizio Giovannelli.

289.45am, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Vassilissa & la Babaracca. For children & adults. www.luccateatrofestival.it

309pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Shrek il Musical.

9.15pm, Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico. Tartufo by Molière. Adapted & directed by Roberto Valerio. Tel. 0583 867715 (Teatro Accademico) or 0583 87619 (Biblioteca Comunale Adolfo Betti). fondazionemontaigne.it, toscanaspettacolo.it

299pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo.performances to be announced. www.teatrodelcarretto.it

9pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Gianni Bicchierini. Music by Liszt/Schumann, Listz/Verdi, Piazzolla, Moussorgsky.

Altri percorsi,

Saturday

10 July TEARS FOR FEARSConcerts by Animando: 5, 19, 27 April 18, 26 May, 2 June, 27 LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL (subject to July. Various locations in Lucca & Bagni di Lucca. 12 July NEW ORDER – ELBOWchange)Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico. Animalesse, stories of 13 July EROS RAMAZZOTTI28 June TAKE THATanimals in prose, poetry, & music by Molière. 5 April 9.15pm.

20 July THE GOOD, THE BAD & THE QUEEN29 June ENNIO MORRICONEAdapted & directed by Roberto Valerio. Tel. 0583 867715 26 July GEMITAIZ30 June DE GREGORI & ORCHESTRA(Teatro Accademico) or 0583 87619 (Biblioteca Comunale 27 July SCORPIONSAdolfo Betti). fondazionemontaigne.it, toscanaspettacolo.it 5 July TOTO

29 July STING7 July ELTON JOHNDuring the next few months, the Boccherini Open performances continue. www.ticketone.it9 July MACKLEMORE

Exhibitions, March 2019


25 26

10LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Firenze,

Lucca,

Lucca,

Ferragamo Museum, Piazza Santa Trinità 5. Italy in Hollywood (1915-1927, the years Ferragamo was in the USA). 10am to 7.30pm. €6. www.ferragamo.com/museo

Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Antiche Camelie della Lucchesia, Anteprima. Exhibit of botanical art & modern art. Hours: Friday 3pm to 6pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 6pm.

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza San Martino 7. Dentro la Collezione Tues. to Sun. 3.30pm to 7.30pm. www.fondazionnebmluccaeventi.it See article in February Grapevine.

12

19

13

5Pietrasanta, LAST DAY:

Museo dei Bozzetti, Chiostro S. Agostino. Donna Scultura.reload: works by Mason, Gamundi, Beaumont, Sah, Pepper & Sannes.

4

11

18

6

17OPENING:

OPENING:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Fondazione Ragghianti. Artista Bambino. Childhood & Primitivism in 20th century Italian Art. Until 2 June. Tues to Sun. 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 7pm.

Livin Art, Via della Cervia, 19. The New Urban Landscapes, paintings by Marco Minozzi (encounter with the artist, 5pm). Hours: 5pm to 7pm or by appointment (tel. 340 4878003). Until 30 March. www.livinart.it

24

31

3OPENING: Pontedera, PALP Palazzo Pretorio. Between Painting & Decorative Arts, ORIZZONTI D'ACQUA. Galileo Chini & other protagonists of the early Novecento, curated by Filippo Bacci di Capaci & Maurizia Bonatti Bacchini. The exhibit involves artists of International Modernism, from Symbolism to Liberty, from Viennese Secession to Orientalism. On alternating Sundays (4pm to 5.30pm) until 28 April (7/14 April). Laboratories for children 4 to 11 years old. €20 per family (parents + 1 child) or €8 per child for each session (minimum 10 participants). This covers entrance to the exhibition, lab activities, & didactic materials. Call 0587 468487 to reserve. Associazione Libera Espressione. www.palp-pontedera.it

Wed TuesMon Sunday

Coming UpLucca, Via del Fosso. I Fossi dell'Arte. Painting, photography, sculpture. Third Saturday of each month (during the Antiques market) until September. Opening Sat. 20 April 4.30pm to 9.30pm. Contact Fabrizio Barsotti, via del Fosso 153.

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ONGOING EXHIBITIONS: Viareggio,Lucca,

Forte dei Marmi,

Lucca, Serravezza,

Vorno, Pietrasanta,

Pontedera,

Viareggio,

Villa Paolina. Donne in Mostra: Works by Casaroli, Colognori, Madiai,

Villa Guinigi Museum, Via della Quarquonia. Treasures from Lucca history. Marchetti, Martelli. Until 12 May.Last January the Cristo Eucaristico, a polychrome terracotta by Matteo Civitali (1436-1501), was returned to Lucca by the Italian police & placed in the museum Il Fortino. Marino Marini, Segno e Colore nell’Opera Grafica. 70+ years after being stolen by the Germans from Santa Maria della Rosa Church in Hours: Wed/Fri/Sat/Sun. 10am to 2pm, 4pm to 7pm. Tel. 0584 280292 or 0584 1944. Museum hours: Tuesdays to Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. Tel. 0583 496033. 280253. Until 5 May 2019.

ex-Cavallerizza, Piazza San Donato. Museo della Palazzo Rossetti, Park Visitors Center. Apuane Alps Wild Lands by Follia curated by Vittorio Sgarbi. Admission €12/10/8 photographer Lorenzo Shoubridge. Open weekdays 9am to 6pm, Saturdays 9am includes audioguide. Over 200 artworks. Until 18 August. to 1pm. Until 30 June 2019.

Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67. Vittorio Palazzo Panichi, Via del Marzocco 1. Storie di Gesso, Bozzetti di Bini, Muoiono sempre gli altri. Until 19 April 2019. repertorio. Until 30 April.www.delloscompiglio.org

Palazzo Pretorio PALP. Galileo Chini exhibit. Orizzonti d’Acqua tra Pittura & Arti Decorative. Until 28 April 2019. 10am to 7pm (closed Mondays). €6. GAMC Gallery, Impressions & words on paper, www.palp-pontedera.itfrom Man Roy to Dorazio. Until 21 July.


28

29Firenze,OPENING: Palazzo Vecchio, Sala

dei Gigli. Leonardo da Vinci & Firenze. Pages from the Codice Atlantico from the Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Until 24 June 2019. Hours: 9am to 11pm daily except Thursdays (9am to 2pm). Ticket is included with that of the Palazzo Vecchio.

30

1

15

22Pisa,OPENING: Palazzo Blu. The

Conquest of the Solar System & Beyond. by National Geographic & European Space Agency. Until 21 July. Mon. to Fri. 10am to 7pm, Sat/Sun 10am-8pm. www.palazzoblu.it

7Lucca, OPENING: Via

Fillungo, San Cristoforo Church. Until 10 March. 4 exhibitions in Festival della Sintesi: I Muri in Giallo, Geometrie di luce, Sintesi Illuminanti, Graphic Scores of The Wagons. 10am to 6pm. www.dilloinsintesi.it

2Lucca,ONE DAY ONLY: Palazzo delle Esposizioni,

Piazza San Martino 7. Dentro/Fuori with Elisa Tamburrini, Assoc. Tambùca, Casa dell’Arte Versilia. Free art lab & visit to the Exhibit (see page 5). To sign up, call 0583 484062.

9

23Lucca,OPENING: Polo Fiere, Via della Chiesa

32, Sorbano. Lucca Collezionando. Comics exhibit. Hours 9am to 7pm (Sunday 9am to 6pm). Until 24 March. www.luccacollezionando.com

Saturday Thu

16

Friday

Oxo Gallery, Barga, Via di Borgo 28. Contemporary Gallery: 1 to 15 August, Keane, the Barga shrine paintings15 to 31 May, Luigi Paolini, wood spirits 16 to 31 August, Fabio Maestrelli, stare1 to 15 June, Stefano Tommasi, senza 1 to 15 Sept., Roberto Giansanti, viaggio ad oriente16 to 30 June, Fabrizio Da Prato, manifesto 16 to 30 Sept., Kerry Bell, every garment tells a story1 to 15 July, Giorgia Madiai, attesa www.oxogallery.com16 to 31 July, Nicola Salotti, olos

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8Lucca,

Bagni di Lucca,

OPENING:

OPENING:

Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. 365 Giorni marzo. Figurative art, painting, photography. Hours: 10am to 6pm. Until 17 March. www.facebook.com/idearteeventi

Ponte a Serraglio, Casinò. Festa della Donna art exhibit. Until 14 March. See article on page 10.

WORTH THE TRIP ...

Firenze,

Ravenna,

Fiesole,

Trieste,

Faenza,

Treviso,

Morath, Her Life & Photographs. 28 February to 9 June 2019. Tel. 0422 513150. Accademia Gallery, Via Ricasoli 58-60. New Acquisitions on display until 5 www.casadeicarraresi.it

May. See article in December/January Grapevine. Tel. 055 987100. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beneculturali.it National Museum, Via San Vitale 17. Seduzione & bellezza nella

contemporaneità. Until 26 May 2019. Tel. 0544 543710. Sala Costantini. Marcello Guasti, Giovanni www.polomusealeemiliaromagna.beniculturali.it

Michelucci & the Monument to 3 Carabinieri commemorating the 75th anniversary of liberation from German occupation, in the Casa del Carraresi. Japan, Land of Parco delle Rimembranza. Until 30 September. Hours: 10am to Geisha & Samurai, curated by Francesco 6pm, weekends only. At the Museo Civico Archaeologico, Guasti Morena. Tickets €12/10/8. 10am to 7pm, closed e gli artisti suoi contemporanei in dialogo con l’antico (1945- Tuesdays. 4 April to 30 June 2019. To reserve: 65), 11 May to 30 September 2019, daily 10am to 6pm. 0422513150, www.casadelcarraresi.it

MIC. Aztecs, Mayans, Incas & the

cultures of ancient America. 11 November 2018 to 28 April 2019. Casa dei Carraresi, Via Palestro

33/35, Fondazione Cassamarca. Inga

Exhibitions, March 2019

Also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com

In the Compitese hills near Lucca

Semi-detached house from 1733. P1: dining, living, kitchen, large bath, P2: 3 bedrooms, attic. Courtyard with cantina & pizza-oven. Solar panels. Land (pool possible) nearby but not adjacent. Possibility of 2nd bathroom. €130,000. (Ref. 1205)

Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165,000. (Ref. 1188)

In the heart of Lucca, near Via Fillungo & Torre delle Ore. Beautiful, luminous 3rd floor apartment. 220 sqm. Large entrance hall, 4 bed-rooms, 2 baths, spacious kitchen from the 1500s, enormous living room, loft area with 2 rooms & laun-dry. Ceilings up to 4 meters high, floors in terracotta & tessieri, wood beam ceilings, wood panelled living room ceiling. € 800,000. (Ref 1184)

Renovated home with 3 separate apartments in traditional style for a total of 210sqm. With

forest land, garden, above-ground pool. Ideal for bed & breakfast. (Ref. 1200)

Fabbriche di Casabasciana

RIVERFRONT PROPERTY Ideal for fishermen & bathers, facing the Serchio River at the foot of the Brancoli hills. Early 1900s estate with traditional tile & parquet floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc. Can be a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 floors) or 2 apartments (total 408 sqm). The large garden with trees & olives is bounded by a mule track & old stone wall. Terrace near the kitchen, ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate. Parking for 4-5 cars inside the property & along the river.Ref. 1179)

PROPERTIES FOR SALEFor more information: [email protected]

Commercial property

Former bar with luminous upstairs

offices. San Giusto di

Compito

300sqm + 3000sqm parking area, €480,000.

Catasto shown here.

(Ref. 1221)

Your future business location? Contact us for confidential transaction.

Lucca - San Concordio

South of town (10 minutes by foot). Top floor one-bedroom apartment with elevator. 50sqm. Large wrap-around terrace,approx. 40 sqm., with beautiful southern & eastern exposure. Near Nottolini’s acqueduct & bike path.€120,000 – assumable mortgage (€5000 down + €400 per month). (Ref. 1196)

Townhouse for sale

Townhouse on 3 floors, 180sqm, 10 minutes walk from Bagni di Lucca train station, with all conveniences (post, bars, shops) close nearby. Restored & in good condition. 5 rooms, 2 baths, large kitchen. €160,000 negotiable. APE G. Tel. 333 8617962. (Ref. 1221)

Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling through mead-ows & forest. Wheelchair access & large park-ing area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 695,000. By owner. . (Ref. 1147)


Also visible at www.luccagrapevine.com PROPERTIES FOR SALE

For more information: [email protected]

500M FROM LIDO DI CAMAIORE BEACH

Large home (240 sqm) with garden. 4 bed-rooms, 3 baths. Fully equipped kitchen. Wrap-around terrace at 1st floor. Garage. APE Cl. G. €580,000. (Ref. 1194)

LUCCA APARTMENT FOR SALE

San Marco area, 5 minutes from the wall (Porta S. Jacopo) on 3rd floor, consisting of 3 rooms, new kitchen, bathroom, 2 balconies, pellet stove, fully furnished, cellar/storeroom, garage. APE Cl. F. Price €125,000. (Ref 1216)

An enchanting 18th century villa that sleeps 14 (8 bedrooms with A/C, 6 bathrooms), already booked by seasonal renters for much of the sum-mer. In its 2 hectares of beautiful gardens & for-ests you will find a gazebo, green-house, swim-ming pool, rare plants, even parrots!

APE Cl. G. 3.5 million euros.

Conveniently located in a quiet village just a short bike ride from the sea, between Lucca and Pisa. Buses pass the gates hourly. (Ref. 1197)

SAN GINESE (CAPANNORI)

Delightful country property that can be used as a farm-house or renovated into an elegant es-tate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedrooms with study + large attic (2 more rooms), bath, country kitchen, living room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with up-stairs storage room & additional cantinas. Total 400 sqm. On a hill overlooking Compitese vil-lages & Bientina Lake. Approx. 3700 sqm of land (grapes/ olives/forest). APE Class G. € 430,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1165)

Near the Lucca walls

Spacious, beautiful home in Sant'Anna

12 rooms (4-6 bedrooms, 3 baths), garden & patio on 4 sides. Built in the early 1900s. € 850,000. (Ref. 1144)

Functioning bar.Commercial property

with exclusive courtyardfor sale at €140,000.

Reliably rented & earning €13,000 per year for over 12 years.

(Ref. 1222)

Investment Opportunity

atSant’Alessio, near Lucca.

Compitese Hills, 30 minutes from Lucca Centro & Pisa airport. Spacious home ideal for 2 families or B&B, surrounded

by 200 olive trees, but close to a village.

See article in February

Grapevine: Country Life,

page 24. (Ref. 1224)

Bagni di Lucca (Fornoli)

Conveniently located near the train station, 2 bedroom ground floor apartment with large kitchen, sit-ting/dining room, large bathroom, cantina & utility room. 120sqm. €120,000 negotiable. APE Cl. G. (Ref. 1219)



HOLIDAYS, TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS

CINEMA

VILLAGE AND TOWN EVENTS

CHILDREN

CONFERENCES

COMING UP

MEET-UP GROUPS & GRAPEVINE ACTIVITIES

THROUGHOUT ITALY

On 31 March we return to daylight savings time. «Spring forward, fall back».

Florence, Odeon Cinema, films in original language. (Remember to turn your clocks ahead!)

Piazza Strozzi. 055 214068, www.odeonfirenze.comEaster this year falls on Sunday 21 April.

www.luccacinema.it / www.circolocinemalucca.itCinema Astra: Green Book 2,3,5,6 March. Dragon Ball Super Broly 1,2,3,5,6 March.Cinema Centrale: The Lego Movie 2: 2,3 March Meet Tourism Lucca, Real Collegio. 28 Feb to 2 March. (3.45pm). Bohemian Rhapsody 5 March 8pm.Trade Fair. Meetings, workshops, training. Domus

Romana will be present, and will offer a tour of Roman Bagni di Lucca Street Market. 31 March (also 30 June, Lucca on 2 March 5pm, ending at the Domus with a docu- 29 Sept., 29 Dec.) Participate by calling at least 5 days be-mentary film, Lucca History. fore the event to 0583 809940 or 0583 809925.

Lucca, Via della Scogliera, Parco Fluviale. Centro Carignano, Parish rooms, 9 March 8pm. In collaboration Equitazione La Luna. 3 March 9am to 5pm. with Equinozio, Sri Lankan dinner to benefit Caritas & Carnevalcavalcando. Performances on horseback & free Scuolina Raggi di Sole. Reserve at 345 7027783 (before trials for the public. Followed on 10 March 9am to 1pm by 28 Feb. if possible). Capannori, Artè: 2 to 4 March, Roma da Alfonso Cuaron. dressage performance by chamption Sara Morganti. Tel. 18 March, L’isola dei cane by Wes Anderson.320 2312433. www.centroequitazionelaluna.it

Viareggio’s Carnival continues. 3/5 March (also Porcari, Marlia, Pietrasanta...). Satirical floats, neighborhood par-

Viareggio, Villa Argentina, Villa Fratti 44, ang. Via ties, etc.. See February Grapevine.

Vespucci. I Venerdì Danteschi. Readings from the Canti by students from Liceo Galilei-Artiglio. Fridays 3-Festa della Donna 8 March throughout Italy. At Bagni di 4pm until 3 May. www.amicimachiavelli.itLucca’s Casinò, artistic & cultural events all week.

Organized by Borgo degli Artisti. See page 10 for details.

Florence Chocolate Festival. Piazza SS. Annunziata.8 to 17March. www.fieradelcioccolato.it Lucca, Amphitheatre & more. Santa Zita Flower Show.

25 April to 1 May.Lucca, Piazza Cittadella. 9 March (rain date 10 March) 4pm to 7pm. La Pentolaccia, an old carnival tradition Verde Mura Garden Show. 5,6,7 April. On Lucca’s city with confetti & surprises. walls, Baluardos S. Donato & S. Croce. www.verdemura.it

Querceta, Il Miccio Canterino (The Singing Donkey). Lucca Effetto Cinema Notte, 13 to 21 April. The city 7,8,9 March. This singing competition officially opens the transforms itself into a huge open-air cinematographic set. Palio dei Micci, which takes place 5 May.

Cinema Centrale: Simulcasts, operas & ballets from Viareggio, Air Climbing, Via Monte Nona 2. 11 March Royal Opera House. La Forza del Destino 2 April 7.15pm.6pm to 9pm. Boulder climbing contest open to all, cele-brating 2 years in business. www.airclimbing.it Lucca Tattoo Expo, Polo Fiere. 12,13,14 April.

www.luccatattoexpo.itCapannori, Villa Torrigiani. 17 & 24 March. 3pm to

Lucca Dance Meeting. Throughout the Centro Storico. 5.30pm. Visiting the gardens (min. 10 people). Reserve

9 to 14 April. www.aed.dancewith [email protected]

Lucca Contemporary Art Fair. 17 to 19 May.Pisa, medieval birthday celebrations. 25 March each year, accompanied by fireworks & boat races. 2019 opera season at Torre del Lago:

La Fanciulla del West 12 & 26 July. Camelia Festival. Sant’Andrea & Pieve di Compito. Turandot 13 & 19 July, 17 August. Japanese tea ceremonies & other events. Weekends, 16 Lucca, Thursday evenings 8.15pm, Grapevine conver- Bohème 20 July, 3 & 10 August. March to 7 April. Info: Centro Culturale Compitese. 0583 sation group. Cantina Des Arts in Piazza San Giusto. Madama Butterfly 27 July, 12 & 23 August.977188, 366 2796749. www.camelielucchesia.it Call to confirm: 333 8617962. Aida 2 August.

Manon Lescaut (concert form), 4 August.English Mondays conversation group at 4pm. Pecora Tosca 11,18,24 August. Nera bar, behind Piazza San Francesco in Parco

Le Villi 16 August. Mazzini, Lucca.

In its 3rd year, the Grapevine boat trip to Torre del Lago Drink, Speak & Share, language exchange group at Opera is planned for Aida (2 Aug.) & Turandot (17 Aug.). LuccaLibri, Viale Regina Margherita, outside Porta San This year we plan to sit in the 3rd section. The all-Pietro. Wednesdays at 9pm.inclusive price is €115 p.p.: a/c coach to & from Lucca,

Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. To boat with Italian narrator crossing Lago di Massaciuccoli, participate contact Paolo at 380 4358318 or email buffet dinner with wine on board, opera ticket, and escort [email protected] with information about the opera. Reserve now to have

the best seats possible!

www.turismo.lucca.it & www.turismo.garfagnana.eu are other sources for events & tours.

Cinema Centrale Art Films (Magnitudofilm.com): Le Stanze delle Meraviglie - WOW 4,5,6 March. Canova 18,19,20 March. Gauguin a Tahiti 25,26,27 March. Palladio & Il Museo del Prado. La Corte delle Meraviglie 15,16,17 April. Il Giovane Picasso 6,7,8 May. Dentro Caravaggio 27,28,29 May.

Lucca, Musica Ragazzi. Associazione Musicale Lucchese. Various activities & performances for children, including 27 March 5pm, I Volti di De Andrè & 30 March 6pm, Solisti dell’Orchestra Leonore, both at the Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio, Lucca. Tel. 0583 469960, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Viareggio, Cittadella del Carnevale. Special children’s activities. See the website viareggio.ilcarnevale.com

Porcari, Auditorium Vincenzo da Massa Carrara. For chil-dren 8 years & up, Il canto del coccodrillo. 10 March 5pm. 17 March 5pm, Pollicino. www.luccateatrofestival.it

Porcari, Piazza Orsi. Carnovale-Porcarese continues. 3 & 5 March, beginning at 2.30pm. Floats, music, dancing, makeup for children, inflated play area, etc. Tel. 0583 29908. www.facebook.com/Carnovale-Porcarese.

Marlia (Capannori), Carnival in Piazza continues on 3 &10 March, beginning at 2.30pm. Children’s make-up, gi-ant soap bubbles, music, sculptures, gastronomy. Info: 0583 30416, 360 340050.

Pietrasanta Carnival in Piazza Matteotti, continues with the Children’s Carnival 5 March 3pm to 5.30pm. The Contrade del Carnevale soccer (calcio) tournament will take place 15 May to 21 June 9pm at the town Stadium.

Reserve now for Grapevine’s trips to the Torre del Lago Operas in August: See Coming Up below.

Camaiore cultural exchange: English/Italian speaking. Meetings, activities & aperitivi. Register on the website CamaioreCulturalExchange.com

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

False Friends

February 2019 solution


ACROSS

1 Relations (7)

5 Tratto, caratteristico (5)

8 Pungere (5)

9 Chess (7)

10 Bookshop (8)

12 Come on! Go on! (3)

14 Tick tock (3,3)

15 Carnale (6)

18 Sommare (3)

19 Farm (8)

21 Relating to a genius (7)

22 Casa (5)

24 Elevare (5)

25 Soft (7)

DOWN

1 Spingere (4)

2 Corrisponde al BBC (3)

3 I regain … uno stato (anag) (7)

4 Inserire (6)

5 Papal crown; diadema (5)

6 Drat! Gosh! (9)

7 Vulgar (8)

11 Accidents (9)

13 Sconosciuto (8)

16 Un altro (7)

17 Ruscello (6)

19 Sentence (5)

20 True (4)

23 Customs (3)

Cruciword by Helen Askham

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8 9

10 11 12

13

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18 19

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C G S P O R T I V I

A R M A O I V L

O B A S K E T B A L L

A S S I E E N U

S N O I R S W A N S

I E R A I I

N A S T R O R A M I N O

T T N T B N

E Q U I P R O L L B

R N I U E N I D

N O M A N S L A N D N

A A U E O G G I

L U N A P A R K N O

Quality TranslationsEditing & Book Preparation

Consulting

Tel. 333 8617962Fax 0583 164254

email: [email protected]

EditionsGRAPEVINE

See

for total hair care

Shampoo and dry €18.00Cut €13.00/25.00Colour €30.00Manicure €14.00Hair drying self-service €5.00

Hours: Monday 13.30 to 18.00

Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 to 18.30Piazza San Frediano 3 - Lucca

Tel/fax 0583 467375 [email protected]

We now have a barber for men.

trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.

[email protected]. 333 8617962

HARPIST

Trattoria Da Nonna Clara

Via Santa Croce 7155100 Lucca

Tel. 0583 464307Mob. 348 3102719

[email protected]

osteria da nonna clara


Tuscany day by day 365 days of history, curiosities, personalities...

a Toscana giorno per giorno is a compendium, an atlas, a fascinating collection of narratives, with incidents from Tuscan history, geography, and culture: from Pistoia's Catilina in 62 B.C., to the building of Livorno's New Port (1590), to the L Costa Crociere shipwreck at Isola di Giglio in 2012. The book includes famous

personalities such as the Medici and those less famous who have nonetheless left their mark on Tuscany, as well as sports figures, writers, artists, and even personalities from more modern, popular culture. Scientific discoveries, events and anecdotes will be found in these pages. In short, a wide variety of subjects to surprise and inform the reader.

To find out more about what constitutes the Tuscan character, you may choose to read this well-illustrated book all at once or dip into it one day at a time, enjoying the approximately 400 pages to reach a deeper understanding of this region that is so widely admired.

In 2011 Eugenio Giani wrote Firenze giorno per giorno, which after selling thousands of copies is already being re-printed. La Toscana giorno per giorno is his follow-up to this, but wider in scope. Giani himself is eminently qualified to talk about Tuscany, with his thirty years of experience in public life. He is currently president of the Tuscan Regional Council,

national advisor to CONI (Italian National Olympic Committee), and president of the Casa di Dante Museum. And he finds time to write, too! Presenting his book at the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca's Palazzo delle Esposizioni (Piazza San Martino, 7) last month, Giani was an erudite and charming speaker, who enchanted the audience as he moved seamlessly from topic to topic.

The book, which is written in Italian, is available by post from Sarnus Editore (€20.40) and will be delivered at no cost. Or it can be purchased in local bookshops such as LuccaLibri and Ubik.

The Importance of Exhibiting Artworks while still a Student

hen I decided to study art, I had no idea what earning a living as an artist would entail. After W studying the various aspects of a

specific discipline (be it painting, sculpture, printmaking, etc.) within the ivory tower of academia, how does one apply all that knowledge and ability to the highly competitive and aggressive real world?

At the Rhode Island School of Design, I had the good fortune of studying under numerous excellent teachers, but one in particular was not only an exceptional printmaker, but a very clever businessman as well. He was able to find the right balance between making art, teaching, and selling his work. While I was still in the process of learning the art of printmaking at RISD, I followed his The students exhibiting are: example and began to exhibit outside academia, in the real world. I have been Katrina Abad, Ally Bahk, Alison Bauersfeld, making art for over 60 years, teaching for over 50, and selling my art around Rebecca Fedhel, Dhvani Doshi, Jessica Friedman, the world, mainly because I started very young. Sarah Jones, Michelle Silva, Gillian Whiting, Alexander Woolfolk.

For the past 20 years I have been teaching printmaking to students in Framing and hanging by Dhvani Doshi.their early twenties at the Syracuse University program in Firenze. Every so often I have an exceptional class of students, as I do this semester, spring 2019. So, when I was asked to participate in the annual Festa della Donna exhibition in Bagni di Lucca, I proposed that I exhibit together with my Syracuse students. I am very pleased this proposal was accepted. Mine (Irises, above) is a multi-plate color etching and my students have made black and white etchings, such as the one by Gillian Whiting shown here.

To exhibit in a prestigious artistic/cultural venue such as Bagni di Lucca is signficant for these students because even at an early stage, their work merits being exhibited to a larger audience, beyond the walls of any academic institution. Perhaps one or more of them will find their path and lifelong vocation in art, as I did, by exhibiting while still a student.

– by Swietlan Nicholas Kraczyna

by Gillian Whiting

by Swietlan Nicholas Kraczyna

Omaggio alla Donnaat the Municipal Casinò, Ponte a Serraglio (Bagni di Lucca)

8 to 14 March 2019

8 March, Opening ceremonies at 9pm / concert at 9.15pm 9 to 14 March, paintings, sculptures, photography exhibition

4.30pm to 7pm each day.Curated by Morena Guarnaschelli.

9 March 10.30am, reading aloud to children10 March 4pm, Women Lions conversation & refreshments

14 March 5.30pm, book presentation:Onore & Sacrifici by Simonetta Simonetti.

Pescia's Ten Castles


t was a stunning Sunday morning in Lucca, so we decided to head towards the town of Pescia and seek out the area called the Svizzera Pesciatina. I had read that the surrounding I villages, all a short drive from Pescia, were known locally

as i Dieci Castella or “Ten Castles.” They have stood the test of time, with the exception of one.

Our first stop was the very appealing town of Pescia, and on this particular morning it was bathed in glorious sunshine. After a much-needed coffee, we walked to the Chiesa della incline, arriving at the ancient church of Saints Jacopo and Madonna, a large church in the Martino, standing tall, overlooking the mountain range in the main piazza. When we stepped distance and also the valley brimming with ancient olive trees. It inside, it revealed the most was a breathtaking sight.intimate of churches. Back in our car, we decided to find a typical local restaurant

The local priest was happy for lunch. We stumbled upon Ristorante Pizzeria “Da Carla” just to chat and told us that the hilly across the Ponte di Sorana. With views over a small lake and also a area around was named babbling creek, it was a most wonderful spot to enjoy a variety of Valleriana, nicknamed Svizzera meats cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven and accompanied Pesciatina, and that the pietra with local “Sorana” beans that were grown right next door. The serena had been used to pearly white, thin-skinned beans are grown in small areas along construct many of the medieval the Pescia River. It's said that the land was drained by the Medici

villages. between the 16th and 17th centuries, and the local farmers have After a wander through the been passing down seeds through generations. In 2002, the Sorana

very quiet town of Pescia, we bean obtained PGI – protected headed along the river past geographical identification – a much disused paper mills – another sought-after certification. So they are remnant of the town's historic not your “everyday beans”. Having past, which was a big producer miraculously left room for dessert, we

in the area and made the area well respected for its paper products. polished off some yummy strudel, Unfortunately, few remain today. There were many other which was the perfect way to finish buildings and shops that appeared abandoned on either side of the dining in this “Sviss” village. We did river as we drove out of town. not come away hungry.

The villages of Pietrabuona, San Quirico, Medicina, Aramo, We then made our way up the Sorana, Vellano, Castelvecchio, Fibbialla, Stiappa, Pontito and winding road to Castelvecchio, which is just nine kilometres from the now virtually demolished Lignana constitute “The Ten the town of Pescia. We were told there are only 92 buildings here, Castles”, which are scattered around and can be seen while of which 84 are currently used in the town. It does not have a bank driving along the picturesque, narrow, winding road. The first or a pharmacy, but it is so pretty, and the views as you gently stop is the medieval village of Uzzano, overlooking the Pescia ascend the cobblestone paths are stunning. Wandering up the little River. It wasn't on the ten villages list, but we chose to park our car laneways, I spied two heavy pieces of rope just “dangling and walk along the precarious roadway that took us into an almost around”, so I gave a tug and the attached bells pealed ferociously. empty tiny town of few inhabitants. In years gone by, it was a One of the locals who lived next to the bell tower was not amused, thriving town where Lucca's prestigious composer Giocomo and I was promptly told to leave the ropes alone!Puccini wrote the second and third acts of La Bohème in the Villa The huge afternoon sun was slowly sinking as we came down Orsi Bertolini, in Uzzano's hills. We wandered through the from this most picturesque village. Where to next? We had ticked village, taking photos as we made our way slowly up the steep off two of the ten villages, plus a town,

and it was getting dark. Driving back into Pescia, we vowed to return in the not too distant future, to continue our sojourn through this picturesque part of Tuscany.

– by Sue Perry

Note: The Svizzera Pesciatina was named after the famous Swiss

historian and economist Jean Charles Léonard Simonde de Sismondi, who was born in Geneva and lived there

in the late 18th century.

Altri Tempi ... Anni Fa ...This Old House


very house contains the memories of people who have lived there before. And each occupant will leave something of themselves for those who inhabit it later, somehow caught in its very fabric, if this Efanciful idea can be tolerated in the mind. As one previous guest of

ours said, This house has heard a lot of laughter. We live there, then we leave ... and as I commented in the memoir Pieces of Molly, There is a lost house in every mind, perhaps the first being when we are born, ejected from the womb, which was our first home. So maybe this is good advice: Try not to make your home in any one place. Make a home for yourself inside your mind. You'll find what you need to furnish it: memories, friends you can trust, love of learning.... That way it will go with you wherever you journey.

When my husband and I found 'this old house' in Barga 25 years ago, we were both captivated by it, even though it hadn't been lived in for 15 years, and was much in need of renovation. We were enchanted by the stencils on the walls, though the architect we had to employ was scornful of them, and

they were summarily removed ... as was the old blue-tiled stove, and much else that we might have wanted to keep in our sentimental way. But the old fireplace was saved, and the chain that hung the pots above the fire still hangs in the chimney (photo left). The other fireplace downstairs, cavernous as it was, emitted smoke everywhere but up the chimney, as we found when we lit the fire, and so we eventually invested in a stufone, as our friend the

hardware man called it, which works fine (photo below).

Many of the old tiles were saved too (photo lower left), though some were removed to install central heating pipes under the floor. The old order constantly changeth, and it can feel such a painful loss. Then when I found a picture in the cantina of one of the inhabitants there before us (below) I thought about the history of this house and our place in a long line of

people who have found shelter here from the winter storms, the buffeting winds of all seasons, and the summer heat. This one old house in old Barga has been built on and parts of it demolished, and it will last (earthquakes permitting). There are tie-bars in our own and other houses, to protect the inhabitants should this occur (photos right), since a fair few future centuries have passed since it was first built in the 17th century.

Fifteen years before us, two sisters lived here, my old neighbour Maria told me. There was Venturina, sweet-natured

and loved by all, and Teresina, who was tremenda, a holy terror with a temper on her. Teresina, on her bad days, must have found it quite a haul up all of the forty spiral stone stairs (photos left, right) to the top of the house, to the stove where she could cook her perhaps sparse meals. A terrace had subsequently been built, giving sun from sunup to sundown, as well as a breathtaking view of the mountains all around (photo top of page). As the old saying goes, the Pania, which can be seen from the kitchen window, is a fairly sure weather predictor. Quando la Pania porta il cappello, Garfagnino prendi l'ombrello. Take your brolly if the Pania has his hat on.

We have as a sort of strange souvenir the stone lid to the privy pipe (photo below, left), which ran from the second floor down into a cesspit in the cantina.... Hmm, phew. How was it emptied? Were there night-soil collectors? My curiosity was further piqued when a very loquacious lady from the Comune came round to see whether we as putative residents actually lived where we said we

did. In the cantina, she told us that all these old houses had been linked by passageways so that in case of earthquakes or persecution the inhabitants could shelter together and escape underground if necessary, from the original fortress with the Duomo at its heart, to houses lower down. These passageways are all blocked up now, but still have a speaking place in the minds of the locals. Another concrete reminder of days gone by, apart from the privy lid, is the beautifully carved stone step (photo left) leading down to the cantina, and stone carving of a torch I found just lying in the cantina (below right). Where were these filched from? Who knows now?

As the old Gospel song says, This old house once knew his children /This old house once knew his wife /This old house was home and comfort /As they fought the storms of life.... The song goes on to say that the owner won't need it for much longer, as he trembles in the darkness /When the lightning walks about. You mend what you can, fix what you can, then you move on. The past is seamed with memories, the wind carries us on, and we can blink the memories away. Being part of that human chain is a heartening reminder of our place, and our inevitable passing. Maybe this article will stimulate others to dig down into the history of their own houses. You never know what you might find. Ain't gonna need this house no longer – but others will.

– by Judith Edwards www.cansurviving.com

www.judithedwards.co.uk


the paperwork to enroll in the system, but first they need to make accompanied by Grapevine's editor, went to the CUP an annual payment at a post office (for the entire calendar year, (Centro Unico Prenotazioni) at the ex-hospital at San from January to December, not pro-rated) based on their personal L Marco (now known as Presidio della Salute or income declaration (on world-wide income).* The payment is

Cittadella della Salute). The new Ospedale San Luca, located calculated by multiplying one’s previous year earnings by 7.5%. near San Filippo, was built a few years ago, but the old buildings How can this self-declaration be confirmed, you might ask? are still used for a variety of medically-related purposes. One of While we were there, at an adjacent desk another client was told these is to sign up for health care. Our experience was as follows: that he had an “error” in his financial declaration. Our counselor

First, one should call for an appointment (tel. 0583 449663). said that a false declaration may result in being called into the tax Or, you can simply show up between 8.15 am and 6.15 pm, but office (the Agenzia delle Entrate at Guamo) and being given a come early if you don't want to wait too long. hefty fine. Those who don't pay taxes in Italy might face even

Italian citizens should bring their Carta d'Identità and worse consequences. Individuals who pay taxes abroad but Codice Fiscale. If they haven't chosen a family doctor, a list will declare residency in Italy are required to also declare their income be given to them and they can choose on the spot, perhaps on the in Italy (though there are rules against double taxation). By basis of proximity to their home. This doctor is the first point of inserting the Codice Fiscale into a data base, the Agenzia delle contact, so if there isn't good rapport, or for any other reason, one Entrate can trace whether one has indeed declared their foreign can change to another doctor. Phoning Dr. Piegaja, who speaks tax payment in Italy.English, we learned that his case load is too big and for now he Another option is to avoid the public health system can't officially take on new patients. If anyone wishes to share the altogether and purchase private health insurance. If a foreigner name of another English-speaking doctor, please contact has temporary health insurance, which is a requirement for Grapevine and we will pass on this information…. obtaining residency, then they would be well advised to make

Once the Italian citizen has chosen a doctor, he or she receives a sure that this health coverage is renewable and adequate. It might printed copy of the doctor's visiting hours and contact information. be a good idea to consult an Italian accountant before making this

The tax bracket for future medical treatment is then decision. calculated based on one’s age and personal income declaration.*

Finally, one is issued a printed copy of the Health Card *The calculation should be updated if changes in income occur.(recognized throughout Europe), to be used while waiting for the .plastic Health Card to be sent in the mail. PLEASE NOTE: The information given here is based on

Italian residents who are non-citizens should bring their personal experience. The editor declines all responsibility for its Permesso di Soggiorno and Codice Fiscale. They will be given use or interpretation.

ast month two of our readers, both retirees,

id you know that if you don't sort your trash properly So using my plastic card from Sistema Ambiente (you can the authorities can find you and fine you? They are also use the Tessera Sanitaria card), I choose to go to the little very good at tracking down abusers. In fact they will Stazione Ecologica near my home whenever I have more than a D go through bags put outside on the streets and few items of plastic, glass, and aluminum (obscurely referred to

identify you by the names and addresses on papers inside. as Multimateriale), or when the umido that I keep in the freezer As if this weren't intimidating enough, you need to know that begins to crowd that small space.

rubbish must be sorted in the proper bags on the proper days at the For bulkier items such as old mattresses, furniture, or broken proper hours. So for example, paper should never be machinery, you can acquire a list of addresses for the disposed of in plastic bags. And umido (organic or “Ecological Centers” outside the city center (one is biodegradable garbage) should only go in bags at Colle di Compito), and find someone to take that can de-compose. you there. Alternatively, you can call

Frankly all this was giving me a Sistema Ambiente and request an headache, not only because it was appointment to have it picked up. If chore, but because on the streets in you aren't enrolled with them, ask warmer weather I encountered your landlord or landlady to do this occasional mice or even rats! Not for you. Note that this service is free everyone obeys the rules, and clearly and is one of the reasons that we pay stuffing your home's trash into the a modest annual fee to Sistema bins intended for passersby isn't a good Ambiente.choice. The worst offenders are visitors So dear readers, let's all be good who seem to think that the day to take out citizens and help the mice of our town die all the trash is the last day of their visit! from hunger!


Signing Up for Health Care

Putting out the Trash in Lucca

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)

Accountant and Auditor Dott Paola Girolami (University of Pisa and Bristol U.K.). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel +39 0583 471734, fax + 39 0583 471751 email: [email protected] website: www.studiocommercialistagirolami.it English/French/Italian.

Dental Surgeon Dr Rogier Staal, University of Amsterdam. Amsterdam Dental Studio, Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel 0583 953633. Dutch/English French/German/Italian. email: [email protected]

Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 492853.

Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Studio Odontostomatologico Martini, Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, email: [email protected]

Lawyer Daria Mariani (English spoken). Real estate, contracts, inheritance, accident, family, commercial, auctions, etc. Tel. 0583 316110, cell. 340 8672443, [email protected] (Ref. 1191)

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo works with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Lawyer Enrico Lattanzi. Viale Giacomo Puccini n°75, Lucca. Tel. (+39) 0583 584981, fax (+39) 0583 316172, cell. (+39) 347 4479061. [email protected], www.lawfirminitaly.com (Ref. 1204)

Landscape design & Garden maintenance. Call Tommaso at cell. 349 284 5399 or email [email protected] www.luccalandscape.it (Ref. 572)

Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group les-sons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)

Bilingual American, experienced tutor attending Univ. of Pisa, living in Lucca, available for English, math & science tutoring/homework assistance. Tel. 324 7967323 or email [email protected]. (Ref. 1214)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 817)

UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)

Wanted, English language tata for 2 year old girl, Some mornings (8 to 9.30) take her to nursery school; 3 afternoons a week (4 to 7.30pm) at home in Via Fillungo. Cell. 328 5631541. (Ref. 1223)

VARIOUS

U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY

Alexander v.Pinoci PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)

email: [email protected] pec: [email protected] Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/

Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719 Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508

cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949

Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements and assumes no responsibility for their content.

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

Il Cerchio Verde

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