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GRAPEVINEGRAPEVINE

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TUSCANY’S

MAGAZINE

The magazine for those who live in Tuscany – or wish they did

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2017 2

Remembering

Maria Masini, born in Glasgow, moved to Italy in 1937. She was an invincible spirit who wrote for Grapevine during her retirement years, after a long career at the American Embassy in Rome. Her children recently sent us this lovely picture of her at Villa Rossi in Gattaiola, taken when she was about 80 years old. Remembering brings a smile to our pages. See her article on page 5, written in 2003.

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with panoramic terrace, walled gardens, olives & vineyards, garage. 2200 sqm land.

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Gallicano, former village school-house near Grotta del Vento, breathtaking views. 135 sqm, completely renovated. Garden 450 sqm. 180,000 euro

Pian di Coreglia, New apartments with garden or terrace. Parquet floors, under-floor

heating, double glazing. 146 sqm at 255,000 to 295,000 euro;

73 sqm at 130,000 to 150,000 euro

Agenzia Immobiliare Dimore Toscane srl Via Marconi 14, Barga - Lucca - Italy

Contents

Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

Contributors

Helen AskhamChiara CalabreseClaudia CasoliDavid CollinsJudith EdwardsRita KobrakSimone LippiMaria MasiniDee MontalbanoAlessia PaoliniDonna PilletereDee SchafferJenny SchutzSilvano SimiMaria TuttovinoValencia Wolf

Cover: Rainy day peopleby Dee Schaffer

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine di Grapevine Editions

Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.

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Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2017

Art/Music/Beauty/Fun

Traditions & History

Food/Drinks/Recipes

Spotlight

Practical

Events of the Month

Where to Stay in Lucca

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals

Melodious MarchWarhol vs. Gartel. Hyp Pop

The Lavatrice and the History Lesson

March GardeningA Touch of Tuscan Colour 23

11-18

8

Confessions of a Groupie 20

09

Stronger than Brexit 425 Years at the American Embassy 5Women Rising for Women’s Day 7

21

The Bright Whites of Italy 10Risotto or Spelt with Pear & Gorgonzola 24

24

Italy and Feminicide 6San Luca Hospital 19

22

The Sheer Versatility of the Shallot

Markets, Museums & Monuments, VenuesWhat's On: Music, Art & ExhibitionsTraditions, Sagras, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

18

19

2, 25, 26

27

In like a lion and out like a lamb, we say about March. And we hope this will describe March in 2017, that is if we aren’t surprised by strange events, climatic and otherwise.

From our rainy cover – although I love umbrellas and the rain, so romantic and evocative! – we arrive at the gay sculpture on the back page, Jill Casty’s “Woman Rising from the Sea”. Her aqueous notes (mouth, eyes) are offset by the sun in her hair. A hopeful image, welcome for spring.

In this month’s articles the authors discuss violence against women but also the artistic approach to Women’s Day, chamber music alongside pop art, rock ‘n roll and country living, soft Tuscan colors mitigating the practical aspects of life, that we can confront or evade with a bright glass of wine in hand.

We remember our friends, Maria from years past, and warm, gentle Giuliana and Giuseppe with their little dog Maggie, gone all too suddenly and unexpectedly, just a few short days ago – but still alive in our hearts.

With love, Norma

Editorial

2017March

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o f f se t & d ig i t a l p r i n t i ng

Acton Library, a lending collection of approximately 50,000

awarded the Fiorino d'Oro (Gold Florin) by Florence English books published between the 16th and the 21st centuries, Mayor Dario Nardella, as an official recognition for which includes some rare books and many signed first editions OOhaving honoured the city and served the Italian and available for consultation in the Library. The collection focuses

international community with its one hundred years of cultural mainly on Art History, English and Italian Literature and activity. The Institute is celebrating its birthday with a long list of Language, History, Travel, The Grand Tour and Music. Every interesting events that began in September and will continue all year about 500 titles are added to the collection. The Library also through 2017. hosts a vast collection of periodicals, many of them dating well

Among other initiatives, there is a series of talks by leading into the past, such as The Times Literary Supplement from 1918 to personalities, open to members of the British Institute of Florence the present day. The Library's archives are an important source of (membership options range from 24 hours to life), held on valuable material regarding the history of the Institute and the Wednesdays at 6 pm in the Harold Acton Library. The spring relations between the Anglophone and Tuscan communities. With programme includes: its rich cultural programme, the result of a joint effort between the

� a lecture on books versus facebook by former Prime Minister Institute and several local organisations and institutions, the of Italy Giuliano Amato (1 March ); Library continues to be a lively point of contact between the two

� a talk for International Women's Day by Julia Rice, Director communities. We can easily understand why the British Institute of the Institute (8 March); of Florence defines itself as a “bi-cultural institution”.

� a lecture on craftsmanship by Eve Borsook (15 March); No doubt, the British Institute of Florence has successfully � a lecture on Heritage by Loyd Grossman, Patron of the survived two world wars. In 1940, following Italy's entry into

Association for Heritage Interpretation (22 March); war, it was forced to close but reopened in 1946, its beautiful � a lecture in Italian on the art of writing by writer Marco Vichi library still intact because during the war it had been looked after

(29 March); with care. Nowadays, though, there is another challenge ahead of � a lecture on Shakespeare's Richard III by Professor Martin an entirely different nature. It is called Brexit. Although it is true

White of Bristol University (5 April); that a hundred years ago, when the British Institute was born, the � and a lecture on the English and the Uffizi by the Director of European Union was still far in the future, and Europe was about

the Uffizi Gallery Eike Schmidt (12 April). to be disrupted by two dreadful wars that today are luckily behind us, it is also true that we now live in a highly bureaucratised world The “British 100 Film Festival” is another interesting where economic interests generally prevail over the cultural ones.

initiative covering the whole period of celebrations. Once or Brexit, which is close at hand, might affect the work of the British twice a month, films highlighting emerging and prize-winning Institute, surely not in terms of its friendly relationship with the British directors are presented at the historic and beautiful Odeon city of Florence, but perhaps in terms of a more complex Cinema in Florence, all in their original versions with subtitles in bureaucracy and higher costs. Let's express the wish that the Italian. This month's calendar features Trainspotting 2, a film by Institute will nonetheless be able to expand its activity and Danny Boyle, from Thursday 9 March to Wednesday 15 March. implement all its future projects.

The origins of this long-lasting British institution are to be found in pre-war Florence, when the cultural elite of English and – by Chiara CalabreseItalian residents used to meet and discuss the idea of a reading room, library and space for cultural exchange between the English-speaking world and Italy. Founded in 1917 precisely for Contacts and info:this purpose, and granted a Royal Charter in 1923, the British The British Institute of FlorenceInstitute of Florence was the first to operate overseas and served Lungarno Guicciardini 9 - 50125 Florence, Italyas a model for the establishment of the British Council in 1934. Tel: +39 055 26 77 81

Presently based in two different buildings in the very heart of email: [email protected] - www.britishinstitute.it Florence, Palazzo dello Strozzino and Palazzo Lanfredini, the British Institute is today an important centre for the Cambridge Harold Acton Library:English Language Assessment exams, and offers courses in opening hours: Monday to Friday 10:00 to 18:30English and Italian language, history of art and life drawing, as email: [email protected] as a number of university study abroad programmes. Palazzo British 100 Film Festival:Lanfredini, on the south bank of the river Arno, hosts the Harold info at http://odeonfirenze.com/british-100-film-festival/

n 24 June the British Institute of Florence will be


Stronger than BrexitThe British Institute of Florence celebrates its hundred years in Florence

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merican and Italian employees looked forward to reading the Embassy Bulletin every Monday morning where they found the names of arrivals or departures AA of U.S. personnel, good buys, domestic animals

seeking new owners and homes, etc., etc. As a matter of fact it was rather uninteresting.

Therefore, I came up with a proposal to put before the Administrative Officer. I would dedicate my Saturday mornings to discovering interesting places not far from Rome, where Embassy personnel could spend the day with family and friends in the coun-try and enjoy genuine food and drink in a local trattoria, as well as a siesta under a pergola, while children were let loose to shout and play games in the open air. I obtained his immediate approval and was offered an Embassy car and driver for these expeditions.

My first find was a small hilltop village, the location of the film Pane, amore e fantasia starring Gina Lollobrigida. It was named Castel San Pietro. When the Embassy car was parked in the small square, curious inhabitants stood and stared, while others alerted the mayor of our arrival from Rome. I was then welcomed and invited to his office in the Town Hall, across the piazza. This so-called office consisted of two plain wooden chairs, one small table and a clothes line which stretched from one wall to the other, with letters and documents hanging from pegs. I enquired if this was his filing cabinet. He said he had no funds for office furniture and had invented his own filing system.

When I explained why I had chosen his village for Embassy weekend outings, he escorted the Embassy representative and driver around the place which had spectacular views to the sea. We ended up in the one and only trattoria where we were offered a snack of freshly baked bread and plenty of local ham, cheese and wine. I decided this was a place Embassy families would enjoy, and was driven back to Rome.

When I submitted my write-up to the admin officer that same afternoon, I suggested it could be a generous gesture if the U.S. gov-ernment could furnish the mayor's office with a few items stored in the Embassy basement, marked “Out of use office furniture”. I had obtained his consent, when he called the person in charge to come to

– by Maria Masinihis office for a list of items, including a steel filing cabinet and end-from the Grapevine Archives, March 2003ing with a couch for the mayor's siesta! Then everything was loaded

into a van and delivered to the mayor of Castel San Pietro, with the compliments of the government of the United States of America!


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EditionsGRAPEVINE

Twenty-five Years in an American Embassy:Italo-American Amity in 1953


You're like one of those dogs, the unwanted ones that have been mistreated all their lives. You can kick them and kick them, but they'll still come back to you, cringing and wagging their tails. Begging. Hoping that this time it'll be different, that this time they'll do something right and you'll love them. You're just like that, aren't you, Rach? You're a dog.

TRachel, while she is lying semi-conscious on the floor, waiting for him to kill her. But everything will end up fine. This is just a novel, The Girl on the Train. Eleven million copies sold; a story where the lover is killed and the current wife is in danger. And so is Rachel when she really understands what kind of man her ex- husband is. In Lucca we cannot forget the sad events that struck Vania.

This is a made-up story, coming from the imagination of She was 46 years old when, at the beginning of August 2016, her

novelist Paula Hawkins. However, the 120 women killed in Italy partner threw petrol at her and ignited the fire. She could not

last year by husbands, partners and ex-boyfriends is not a novel – survive the serious burns and died the following day in hospital.

those are real stories. There are too many cases, and it is a grave social problem,

The year 2017 started in the sign of violence. Within a single due not only to men incapable of managing their anger when they

week we had attempted murders in the most chilling ways, with lose control over their women. Some men do not consider women

three women scarred for life by their current or former partners. their equals. So they feel justified in performing acts of cruelty � On 10 January 2017 in Messina, 22 year old Ylenia Grazia that go beyond humanity. I cover you with gasoline; I set you on

Bonavera was hospitalized for burns over 13 percent of her fire; I disfigure you with acid; I stab you to make you

body, caused by a man who knocked on her door and sprinkled unrecognisable. This is how these criminals think.

her with gasoline before setting her on fire. The authorities We are faced with an archaic vision of women. In Italy we had

were investigating the former boyfriend, who was at first to wait until 5 September 1981 for the article of the Criminal Code

accused by Ylenia, though later, while still in shock, she denied that supported "honour killing" to be abolished. The killing of

his involvement. wives or daughters brought lighter sentences if one of them had � On 11 January 2017 in Rimini, Gessica Notaro, Miss engaged in dishonourable behaviour, threatening the man's

Romagna 2007, accused her ex-boyfriend, a native of Cape reputation in society.

Verde, of having thrown acid at her, causing serious bodily To reduce cases of violence against women, an appropriate

harm, with wounds on her legs and the likelihood that she judicial system, along with appropriate economic plans, is

would lose her sight. paramount. Also needed is the support of government agencies: � On 18 January 2017 in Milan, Rossana Belvisi was found dead police, health, social and medical services, to protect and provide

in her apartment, killed by her husband with 23 knife wounds. legal assistance for victims.And to put an end to this violence, which has been given the

This violence does not spare any part of Italy. It is occurring name of feminicide, we must above all start with the younger

throughout the territory and the latest reports on feminicide show generations, first by educating them about the equality between

that the attacks have increased in the northern and central regions men and women in modern society.

of the country. – by Alessia Paolini

his is one of the last sentences that Tom says to his ex-wife

Italy and Feminicide

The red bench against violence Piazza della Misericordia, Lucca


Women Rising, Festa della Donna

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national Women's Day is gender parity, and this year in Bagni di Lucca the annual Ocelebrations are focused on the topic of

women and work. For this fifth year of celebrations, at the Ponte a

Serraglio casinò the association Artisti e Associati has outdone itself in preparing an excellent Omaggio

alla Donna, in her many roles as artist, muse, and professional woman.

On Sunday 5 March at 5 pm the Mayor and other authorities will open the art and photography exhibition, entitled I Mille Volti del Lavoro

Femminile. The Bagni di Lucca historical society, together with Auser Filo d'Argento and the Lucca Photographic Archives, have designed a documentary exhibition on female employment in the past.

The opening night will conclude with musical entertainment and refreshments.

Here is the program for the rest of the week:

� Tuesday 7 March at 5 pm, How to Create a

Mandala from a Dream with Andrea Gabrielli.

� Wednesday 8 March at 9.15 pm, concert entitled Voce di Donna o d'Angelo, women's voices in

melodrama. Organized by the Michel de Montaigne cultural foundation.

� Friday 10 March at 6 pm, Il Lavoro della Donna

tra Arte e Storia with Francesca Rafanelli.

� Sunday 12 March at 5 pm, a forum on Il Lavoro

della Donna Oggi, Problematiche e Prospettive

Future.

Exhibits will be open every eveningfrom 5 pm to 8 pm.

Contact: 320 1107330

ne of the important themes for Inter-

To warm our Sunday afternoons in March, the final three chamber music concerts of the Associazione Musicale Lucchese will be offered in the Luigi Boccherini Auditorium in Piazza del Suffragio. Passersby may be lured towards the enchanting sounds emanating from this former church, but serious music lovers know they must arrive early to be sure of admission. Although the concerts begin at 5 pm, the doors will be open 30 to 40 minutes before that time.

Melodious March


Protagonists of the first concert on 5 March are Danilo Rossi on the viola, accompanied by Simone Soldati on the piano. They will be performing music by Johann Sebastian Bach and Paul Hindemith. To conclude the concert, they will play Franz Schubert's Arpeggione, composed in 1824 for the little-known instrument of the same name, a hybrid between the guitar and the cello. Arpeggione fell into obscurity until, in 1871, the piece was transcribed for cello, violin or viola.

On 12 March, narrator Sandro Cappelletto and pianist Andrea Lucchesini will bring Schubert's last two great compositions to life. Both the Sonata in la maggiore, Op. post D 959 and the Sonata in mi bemolle maggiore, Op. post D 960 were written in 1828, just a few months before the composer's death.

Tickets 12 euros. Children under 14 enter free.

Bring the family!

For more information: www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Closing the season on 19 March, in a Father's Day concert dedicated to families, the Antonio Vivaldi Orchestral Ensemble will interpret Vivaldi's beloved Four Seasons. The musicians are Alberto Bologni and Guglielmo De Stasio (violins), Walter Barbiero (viola), Francesco Ferrarini (cello), Gabriele Ragghianti (bass), Roberto Loreggian (harpsichord) and Glauco Bertagnin (violin soloist).

This exhibit awoke in me echoes of American life in the 1970s are two of those select artists born to make history and and recollections of the social repression, middle class revulsion or to remain in history, who came to modify the social and refusal regarding this new kind of art and lifestyle.AAcultural equilibrium of a place in a determined moment Digital art concentrates on the object, starting from reality as

of history. Both were sustainers of the union between art and is, from the photograph of something clear-cut that, without losing scientific technology. They met in the 1980s and the pretext was its original connotation, is “contaminated” and re-presented in the expressive possibilities of the computer. Gartel revealed to potentially infinite dimensions. This scenario, which was once Warhol the secrets of the Commodore Amiga and their harmony prophesied in the fantastical stories of Philip K. Dick, is the was immediate because they had so many points in common. context for Laurence Gartel's experimentation and work on the

– Maurizio Vanni, curator of the exhibit almost empathetic relationship between man and machine, art and science, analog worlds and digital dimensions. (from

For Warhol by way of Polaroid, the recording machine, the explanatory panels)Photomaton and seriographs; and for Gartel by way of Apple Macintosh (MacPaint), Commodore Amiga (Deluxe paint With approximately 110 works by Warhol and Gartel on program), Xerox's Art Color Inkjet printer, Canon photography, display, this show will run until 18 June, while concurrently in and scanners, these artists were able to change the nature of art, Spoleto at the MAG Metamorfosi Art Gallery, 50 more original responding to technologies and the commercialism of mass works are on display until 2 April.communication in new ways. Gartel's creations for Absolut The exhibit at Lu.C.C.A. Museum, at Via della Fratta 36, is Vodka, Philip Morris, Coca Cola, Walt Disney and Apple made supported by the Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Lucca, advertising history. Warhol made icons out of the already famous Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca and Gesam Gas+Luce.Marilyn and Mao, while his Campbell's soup cans and album covers, for example the Velvet Underground, became part of the Hours: Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pmcollective imagination. For information: 0583 492180, www.luccamuseum.com

ndy Warhol (1928-1987) and Laurence Gartel (1956-)

Warhol vs. Gartel. Hyp Pop

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Tuscany is like a great bottle of wine: lovingly created and carefully aged, and the longer you spend contemplat-ing it, the better it gets. With each visit, you fall a little more in love with its rich hues, unforgettable personality and sheer beauty. The memories linger.

– wine critic Filippo Bartolotta

If you have overeaten or indulged a bit too much on the hile the great RED wines of Italy, which fabulous cuisine of Italy, you might be given some Fernet Branca we discussed last month, may have created to help settle your stomach and relieve that “stuffed” feeling. Be the notoriety, respect, and passion for Italian W prepared! It sounds harmless enough and works, but it is like wines, the white wines stand proudly on their own swallowing a ball of fire as it rolls from your mouth to your toes!! A merit. After all, an Italian meal must begin with a Prosecco and end much more pleasant finish to a meal is Vin Santo with cantucci for with Vin Santo or you're not in Italy! Think of it as the Yin and Yang dipping. Originating in Tuscany, this delicious dessert wine is of Italian wines. Each has its own uniqueness, purpose and usually made from Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes with enjoyment, flowing abundantly and transitioning gracefully, Sangiovese used for the Occhio di Pernice (dark version). The through every part of a meal. Perfetto!!term “straw wines” is used to describe the drying process after In contrast to the many varietals of reds, there are only about harvesting. The grapes are either hung on indoor racks or laid on 17 white grape varietals grown in Italy, of which five or six are well-ventilated straw mats until dried and high in sugar content. used for most white or sparkling wine production. The largest The wine ages at least three years, usually in wooden barrels. The production of white wines is outside of Tuscany but the most minimum alcohol content for Vin Santo must be 15.5%. The famous grape, the Vernaccia, is predominantly grown in the quality and sweetness will vary, but look for DOCs or IGTs in Tuscan region, from San Gimignano to Florence. Some Vernaccia Tuscany.grapes are grown in Sardinia, but the Tuscan Vernaccia is the finer

The Moscato grape (from the French Muscat Blanc) grows of the two, based on critics and accolades. The grape dates back to throughout Italy and is used to make all sorts of wines. Its varietals the early 1200s, and according to Dante, this dry, peppery, straw-are used in both white and red dessert wines, the best known being colored white that deepens to gold with age finds its best exemplars Moscato d'Asti, the sparkling wine from northern Italy in the in the Town of Towers, San Gimignano. The Vernaccia di San DOC region. It is less frizzante, with more sweetness and lower Gimignano was the first to win a D.O.C. rating in 1993 and is the alcohol content compared to Champagne or Prosecco.only white wine today to be a D.O.C.G. Its distinctive flavor allows

Along the Ligurian coast, there are a few producers that are it to stand on its own, unblended. However, a small amount of creating their “salty” whites, reds, sparkling and dessert wines by Chardonnay or Viognier grapes is allowed.burying them in the sea for aging. This process, first recognized in The most widely produced grape for white wine is Trebbiano. Spain in the early 2000s, has become an innovative solution to This is a very mild, almost bland grape, used in the more common, finding extra space for the aging process both in the practical sense light-bodied, crisp table wines or as a blend. Pinot Grigio, imported and scientifically. The consistent temperature, lack of light and from the French Pinot Gris almost a century ago, grows primarily in oxygen, movement of the tides and underwater pressure are the northeastern corner of Italy, with recent vineyards producing in thought to have an interesting and positive effect on aging wines. the Tuscan region. This wine tastes similar to a Pinot Noir, crisp with One of the first producers of “sea aged” wines is Piero Lugano of floral and citrus notes, but it can also be quite rich, round and full Bisson Wines. Try the Spumante Classico Abyss or the Abysses bodied. It can age well, depending on the winemaking technique. Reserve. You might even find bottles from some producers with The white Malvasia varietal, thought to be of Greek origin, barnacles still attached!produces well-balanced, lush fruity flavors that age well in small

While many Tuscan wineries produce their own version of barrels. This grape is used to produce high alcohol wines like Vin sparkling wines, even meeting the IGT standards, Prosecco only Santo. East of Tuscany, in the Marche region, the Verdicchio grape comes from the Veneto region and from nine provinces in grows along the Adriatic coast, loving the sea air. It can produce northeastern Italy. The white Prosecco (Glera) grape grows just a more medium-bodied, crisp acidic wines with a hint of lemon and 30 minute drive from Venice, where a road runs through the salt. The Vermentino varietal grows along the Tuscan coast as well Prosecco DOCG area from the town of Valdobbiadene in the west as in Sardinia and Liguria. It is a close contender to the flavors of to Conegliano in the east. This is a slow-ripening grape and is Vernaccia and can make an excellent wine. It is often compared to harvested late in the season. Originally, the fermentation occurred Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the other significant white wine varietal naturally in the bottles throughout the winter and spring as the grapes grown in surrounding regions are Flano from Campania, temperature changed, but since the mid 1800s the process changed Garganega (Soave), Greco, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Riesling to the French “Charmat method” of aging in large, pressurized Renano, Sauvignon, Sémillon, Viognier and Tocai Friulano. Here is tanks. The DOC labeling requires the wine be at least 85% a broad selection of excellent white wines to sample: Prosecco grapes with up to 15% usually being Pinot Grigio, Pinot � Montenidoli Fiore, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGBianco, Chardonnay and/or a maximum of 10% Verdiso. The � Tenuta Le Calcinaie, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGalcohol content must be at least 11%. The tasting notes change � Casale Falchini, Vigna a Solatìo, Vernaccia di San Gimignano between the two areas, with the higher elevation of Valdobbiadene DOCGProsecco having a crisper, more citrusy taste than the lower lands � Panizzi, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCGof Conegliano, where they are fruitier. A much smaller DOC � Fattoria del Buonamico, Montecarlo Bianco DOCregion called Cartizze produces some of the finest and most � Bianco Vergine della Valdichiana DOCexpensive Proseccos, competing with lower-level Champagnes in � Terre del Sillabo, Colline Lucchesi, Gana, Spante or Matiprice and quality. They can be enjoyed during any part of a meal � MaremmAlta, Le Strisce Vermentino DOCand happen to be my favorite Italian beverage.� Fattoria Casa di Terra, Vermentino DOC Bolgheri

I wish you many great adventures on your exploration of � Terenzuola, Vigne Basse Colli di Luni DOC Vermentino, or Italian wines and hope you enjoy “la dolce vita” in Tuscany. We are Fosso di Corsano Colli di Luni DOC Vermentino Superioreso blessed by the abundance of this beautiful land and country. � Ottaviano Lambruschi, Liguria di Levante IGT ManieroSaluti!!� Ducugnano dei Barbi, Orvieto, Il Bianco or Villa Barbi Orvieto

Classico DOC – by Valencia Wolf� Isole e Olena, Chardonnay, Collezione Privata IGT

The Bright Whites of Italy

MarketsGeneral markets Books and prints Arts & Craft

Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone DailyMarina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoons(until 11 March when it moves to Piazzale Don Baroni at Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the the Tagliate, near the Serchio River) Antiques

monthLucca, Piazza S. Francesco 2nd Sunday of month. Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayLucca, Piazza del Carmine Monday to Saturday

Altopascio 2nd SundayB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.

Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m.

Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsForte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m.

Pietrasanta 3rd SundayPietrasanta 1st SundayS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Barga 2nd SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m. Markets in Florence (the biggest)Viareggio 4th Sat/SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m. Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, Bientina 4th Sat/SundayTonfano Sat a.m. closed SundaysPescia 4th SundayCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pm

Pescia Sat a.m. Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm dailyQuerceta Saturday mornings

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Where to Stay in LuccaGrapevine recently conducted an informal survey among foreign residents and visitors regarding local bed and breakfasts and hotels.

Here are some that received positive comments. The listing is not in any special order.

1. 16. Via del Duomo 3, 0583 955813, [email protected]). Via della Cavallerizza 12, 0583 48477, [email protected] 17. Via A. Mordini 63, 0583 403228, [email protected]

2. Via del Fosso 26, 0583 47615, 18. Via della Zecca 33, 0583 496665, [email protected] [email protected]

3. Via Fillungo 12, 0583 493634, [email protected] 19. Corso Garibaldi 19, 0583 464218, [email protected]. Via S. Anastasio 23, 0583 440275, [email protected]

20. Via S. Giustina 30, 0583 587964, 5. Via S. Paolino 103, 0583 317446,

[email protected]@sanlucapalace.com

21. Via Angelo Custode 16, 0583 440170, 6. Via S. Giustina 48, 0583 583571, [email protected]@hotelpalazzoalexander.it

22. Corte Portici 16, 0583 490748, 7. Via del Anfiteatro 25, 338 3707483, [email protected]@tin.it8. Via Angeli 23, 0583 469204,

[email protected] 23. Via della Polveriera 6, 338 5880982, 9. Piazza San Pietro Somaldi 4, 0583 469049, [email protected]

[email protected] 24. Via Molinetto 11, 0583 467795, [email protected]. Piazza San Pietro Somaldi 5, 0583 48427,

[email protected] THE WALLS

11. Via Michele Rosi 93, 339 6328832, 25. Via S. Marco 368, 0583 495010,

[email protected]@hotelsanmarcolucca.com

12. Via Galli Tassi 85, 0583 53579, [email protected]. Via Romana 1247, 0583 4991, 13. Via di Poggio 9, 0583 55421, [email protected]

[email protected]. Vicolo delle Ventaglie 2, 0583 464175, [email protected]. Via Pisana Trav. II 74, Santa Anna, 0583 311022, 15. Via della Dogana 9, 0583 469181,

[email protected]@albergosanmartino.it

Youth Hostel, Ostello San Frediano B & B Il Duomo.

B & B La Magnolia.Hotel Ilaria + Residenza dell’Alba. B & B La Gemma di Elena.

Hotel La Luna. Relais Inn Lucca.Hotel Noblesse.

B & B Petit Maison Sainte Justine.San Luca Palace Hotel.

B & B La Colonna.Hotel Palazzo Alexander.

Residenza Centro Storico.Anfiteatro B & B.

Hotel Alla Corte degli Angeli.

B & B Le Violette.B & B Corte dei Nobili.

Hotel Diana.B & B Dimora dei Guelfi.

B & B Casa San Jacopo al Giardino.Hotel San Marco.

B & B Caterina.Grand Hotel Guinigi (Best Western).Piccolo Hotel Puccini.

B & B La Romea.Affittacamere Stella. Hotel San Martino.

(good prices, good food, lovely

Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.

2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it

4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,

5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to

museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,

33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE

Florence 90km

Montecarlo 20km

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2017 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584 AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org 757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma.

SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center &

Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Pisa:photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 O. Ponte a Moriano

Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. 450278. Barga: T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18.

Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. 467205. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa.

F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.490530, [email protected], P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo

Prato:www.museocattedrale.lucca.it dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music.

U. Palazzo Pretorio. G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.

www.palazzopretorio.prato.itH1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.

V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara. H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia: www.museodeltessuto.it

55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. Florence:J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.orgJ2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116. X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60.

New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & www.unannodarte.itJ3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. 10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Forte dei Marmi: Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.it

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. 280292, www.villabertelli.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10.

www.guccimuseo.comto midnight.

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Florence 90km

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San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

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Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

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Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z

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Tassignano

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5 4pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Nino Rota’s Il cappello di paglia de Firenze (set in Paris & composed in 1945).

5pm, Auditorium del Suffragio, Lucca. AML Chamber Music Concert. Danilo Rossi viola & Simone Soldati piano performing Bach, Hindemith & Schubert. See article on page 8.

4.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Miseria e Nobiltà by Eduardo Scarpetta.

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4pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Shakespeare’s Macbeth directed & interpreted by Franco Branciaroli.5pm, Auditorium del Suffragio, Lucca. AML Chamber Music Concert. Pianist Andrea Lucchesini with narrative voice Sandro Cappelletto. Straniero al mondo: Schubert, the last two sonatas. See article on page 8.4.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Chi Ha Paura di Virginia Woolf? by Edward Albee.7.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE, Via del Vorno 67.Concerto per corpi in rivolta, Compagnia HùRum Teatro. Tel. 0583 971125.

13 14 1510am & 9pm, Camaiore, Teatro dell’Olivo. Real Lear.

9pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Teatro Alfieri. Il Borghese Gentiluomo by Molière interpreted by Emilio Solfrizzi.

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28 299pm, Camaiore, Teatro dell’Olivo. Miseria e Nobiltà produced by Michael Sinisi.

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229pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Parsons Dance choreographed by David Parsons.

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89pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Giselle, Odessa National Opera Ballet.9pm, Barga, Teatro dei Differenti. Calendar Girls. Angela Finocchiaro/Laura Curino.9.15pm, Bagni di Lucca Casinò, Voce di Donna o d’Angelo, women’s voices in melodrama. Women’s Day Concert.

6 79pm, Altopascio, Teatro Puccini. Casa di Bambola by Henrik Ibsen. Director Roberto Valerio.

194pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Giocando con Orlando with Stefano Accorsi & Marco Baliani.5pm, Auditorium del Suffragio, Lucca. AML Chamber Music Concert. The A. Vivaldi Orchestra of Venice Ensemble performing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. See article on page 8.4.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Novecento by Alessandro Baricco.9.15pm, Borgo a Mozzano, Teatro Colombo di Valdottavo. La Boutique del Mistero, inspired by Dino Buzzati.Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Puccini’s Manon Lascaut.

269pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE, Via di Vorno 67. There is no certainty. Performance by Théatre Variable N° 2. Tel. 0583 971125.

9pm, Altopascio, Teatro Puccini. Filumena Marturano by Eduardo De Filippo.

Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Vinci’s Didone Abbandonata.

Wed Mon Tues Sunday

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

Music & TheatreMarch 2017

27

Nicoletta Braschi on 25 March,

Teatro del Giglio

30 312.45pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Valentina e I Giganti (from Roald Dahl) for Lucca Teatro Festival.9.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Uomo Solo in Fila by Maurizio Micheli.9pm, Barga, Teatro dei Differenti. Rosalyn with Marina Massironi & Alessandra Faiella.9.15pm, Borgo a Mozzano, Teatro Colombo di Valdottavo. Era la Nostra Casa.

23 7pm,

of San Giuseppe. Puccini & Verdi. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.

9.15pm, Il secondo figlio di Dio. David Lazzeretti. Presented by Simone Cristicchi. In July 1878 before 4000 people Lazzaretti declared himself the reincarnation of Jesus.

Lucca, Oratorio 24 Lucca Theatre Festival. For children & families,

laboratories & performances in the Centro Storico. Special guest Nicoletta Braschi. Until 3 April. www.luccateatrofestival.it9pm, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. La Storia del Rock for Lucca Teatro Festival.7pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini Opera Recital. Puccini e la sua Lucca Festival.9pm, Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Teatro Alfieri. Folle d’Amore, poetry by Ariosto & Alda Merini.

9.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Spettacoli in Cantiere by And Or Margini Creativi.

259.45am, Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. La Storia di Rock. for Lucca Teatro Festival.7pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Una Notte all’Opera. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival9pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE, Via del Vorno 67.There is no certainty. Performance by Théatre Variable N° 2. Tel. 0583 971125.9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Nicoletta Braschi in Beckett’s Happy Days for Lucca Theatre Festival.

97pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini & Verdi. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.


9pm, Camaiore, Teatro dell’Olivo. Colette with Catherine Spaak.

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7pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini Opera Recital. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Shakespeare’s Macbeth directed & interpreted by Franco Branciaroli.

37pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini Opera Recital. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.9pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. The Boccherini Orchestra with Alberto Bologni, violin soloist, performing Paganini & Tartini. www.animandolucca.it9pm, Seravezza, Scuderie Granducali. Oltre gli Argini, Firenze 4 November 1966. Gionni Voltan narrates the historic flood.

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7pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Una Notte all’Opera. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.8.30pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Nino Rota’s Il cappello di paglia de Firenze (set in Paris & composed in 1945).9pm, Pietrasanta, Teatro Comunale. Antigone directed by Marco Viecca.9.15pm, Borgo a Mozzano, Teatro Colombo di Valdottavo. Hamlet-ectomìa, liberally inspired by Shakespeare with multimedia & new technologies.


Friday Saturday Thu

To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

177pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Puccini Opera Recital. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Giocando con Orlando with Stefano Accorsi & Marco Baliani.

9pm, Pietrasanta, Teatro Comunale. Ti Amo, o qualcosa del genere with Roberto Ciufoli, Tiziana Foschi, Francesca Nunzi, Diego Ruiz.

187pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Una Notte all’Opera. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Giocando con Orlando with Stefano Accorsi & Marco Baliani.

9.15pm, Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico. E’ bravo? Ma non si applica by Matteo Cesca.

Pisa, Teatro Verdi. Puccini’s Manon Lascaut.

117pm, Lucca, Oratorio of San Giuseppe. Una Notte all’Opera. Puccini e la sua Lucca International Festival.9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Shakespeare’s Macbeth directed & interpreted by Franco Branciaroli.7.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE, Via di Vorno 67.Concerto per corpi in rivolta, Compagnia HùRum Teatro. Tel. 0583 971125.

9.15pm, Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati. Scoop! with Katia Beni &Anna Meacci.9pm, Pietrasanta, Teatro Comunale. Mario Tobino’s Le Libere Donne di Magliano directed by Andrea Buscemi.

Puccinielasualucca for its winter season (1 November to 31 March) offers concerts on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays

at the Oratorio of San Giuseppe at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the adjacent Cathedral Museum.

[email protected]

or call 340 8106042

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

Coming Up/Ongoing Lucca Classica Music Festival, 4 to 7 May. www.luccaclassica.it, Facebook: LuccaClassicaMusicFestivalLucca Summer Festival (partial list): 14 June (from Berkeley, CA) Green Day’s Revolution Radio Tour with punk rockers Rancid, 4 July rock band Imagine Dragons, 22 July Macklemore & Ryan Lewis from Seattle, 23 July Kasabian (alternative rock from Leicester, UK).Borgo a Mozzano, 16 April 10.30am. Easter Mass with Maestro Gustav Kuhn’s Accademia di Montegral. www.montegral.com/[email protected], Animando concerts 14 April & 19 May. www.animandolucca.it

ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Pietrasanta,

Fondazione Antica Zecca, Casermetta San Donato. Printing from its origins to the dawn of the Renaissance, incunaboli & early writings from the Diocesan Library plus Gerardo Mercatore’s globes (terrestrial 1531, celestial 1551). Eighty 15th-16th century volumes rich in engravings & miniatures. 7 Jan. to 27 May.

Lu.C.C.A. Museum, Via della Fratta 36. Warhol vs. Gartel. Hyp Pop. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm. See article on page 9.

At Piazza Duomo a peperoncino 16 meters high is part of a collection of 100 sculptures & paintings by Giuseppe Carta, Orti in Germinazione, extending as far as the Forte dei Marmi pier. Until 11 June.

Pescia,

Prato, (Carmignano, loc. Bacchereto).

Seravezza, Querceta, Santo Stefano al Ponte (Florence).

Certaldo (Firenze),

Palazzo Mediceo & Palazzo Civico. Homage to painter Guido Cagetti (1935-2013). Open Seravezza Fri/Sat/Sun 3pm to 7pm. At Querceta, 8am to 7.30pm. Info 0584 757442, palazzomediceo.it

Pinocchio Park, Via San Gennaro, 3. Pinocchio emerges from the Fairy Tale, 32 photographs by Aldo Fallai. Saturdays & Sundays 10am to sundown. Until 1 May 2017. Tel. 057 2429613, www.pinocchio.it

Complesso di Santa Maria Assunta, Via Santa Maria 6. Antiche Maioliche di Bacchereto, 1300s to 1500s. Saturdays/ Sundays 11am to 1pm & 4pm to 7pm. Until 8 October 2017.

Klimt Experience. 10am to 7pm. Until 2 April 2017. Tel. 055 217418, klimtexperience.com

Palazzo Pretorio, Via Rivellino 1. Per Certaldo, photographic exhibition by Giancarlo Bartalini. Daily 9.30am to 1.30pm & 2.30pm to 4.30pm. Closed Tuesdays. Until 9 April. Tel. 0571 661219, www.comune.certaldo.fi.it

[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

5LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Borgo a Mozzano,

Viareggio,

Palazzo Santini, Biblioteca Comunale Fratelli Pellegrini. Il Mestiere Lucchese, photographic narrative by Luca Lorenzetti. Tel. 0583 88045, www.facebook.com/Biblioteca. Fratelli Pellegrini.

L. Viani GAMC Museum, Piazza Mazzini. Lo sguardo e la parola. Works in the Viareggio Prize Collection 1974/1993. Tuesday to Sundays 3.30pm to 7.30pm. 0584 581118, www.gamc.it

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LAST DAY:

Lucca,

Prato,

Fondazione Banca del Monte, Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Piazza San Martino 7. In the Flight of Color, by Alessandro Tofanelli. Mondays to Fridays 3pm to 7pm, Sat-Sun 10am to 1pm & 3pm to 7pm.

L. Pecci Center for Contemporary Art, Viale della Rebbublica 277. La fine del mondo (End of the World), problems of meaning & perception interpreted by over 50 international artists. Tuesdays to Saturdays 11am to 11pm. www.centropecci.it

13 14 15

27 28LAST DAY:

7 8

1

26LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Lucca,

Forte dei Marmi,

Lu.C.C.A. Museum, Via della Fratta 36. Lounge & Underground. Giancarlo Baglini. All’Origine. www.luccamuseum.com

Fortino, Museum of Satire & Caricature. Toulouse Lautrec & Le Rire. Open Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays 3pm to 7pm. Tel. 0584 280262, 0584 787251, museosatira.it

12

Wed TuesMon Sunday

Exhibitions, March 2017

Anish Kapoor

Andrea Tofanelli

To locate the venues, see the map & list on the back of this calendar

Genoa,

Vicenza,

Rome,

Nuoro

Palazzo della Meridiana, Salita San Francesco 4. Sinibaldo Scorza (1589-1631), Fables & Nature at the Dawn of the Baroque. 10 Feb. to 4 June 2017. Tel. 010 2541996, www.palazzodellameridiana.it

Contrà Porti 11, Palladio Museum. Andrea Palladio Centro Internazionale Studi Architettura presents Palladio, Il mistero del volto, a marble bust of Andrea Palladio made by Antonio Canova (a new acquisition of the museum). 3 Dec. 2016 to 4 June 2017.

Villa Borghese Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6, Bilotti Museum. Francesco del Drago (1920-2011). Parlare con il colore (Speaking with color). Del Drago’s works are present in many collections in Europe & the USA. His influence extends beyond art, into graphics, advertising & cinema. Until 26 March 2017. Tel. 06 0608, www.museocarlobilotti.it

(Sardinia), MAN Museum, Via Satta 27. Topographies (1917-1991), by photographer Berenice Abbott. Until 21 May. Abbott was born in Ohio in 1898 & moved to New York in 1918. In contact with Sylvia Beach, Duchamp & Man Ray, she photographed famous people such as Jean Cocteau, James Joyce, Max Ernst & André Gide. In 1940 she became picture editor for Science Illustrated.

WORTH THE TRIP ...

EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com

30 31

23

16

24

2 3

10

17

9

4

11Viareggio, LAST DAY: Hanger n. 8, Cittadella del Carnevale, Via Santa Maria Goretti. Display of

Carnival Masks.

25Lucca,

Vorno,

Vorno,

OPENING:

OPENING:

OPENING:

Villa Bottini & throughout town.. Retrospective for painter Fausto Maria Liberatore. Associazione Quattro Coronati. Until 25 April.

Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE. Sobra la sangre by Teresa Margolles. Until 25 June. Tel. 0583 971125.

Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE. Video Installation round midnight/ritratti by Cecilia Bertoni. Until 25 June. Tel. 0583 971125.

Saturday Thu

18

Friday

Exhibitions,

March 2017

Cecilia Bertoni

Giancarlo Baglini

Fausto Maria Liberatore


TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS CINEMA

CONFERENCES

COMING UP

MEET-UP GROUPS

VILLAGE AND TOWN FAIRS

CHILDREN

THROUGHOUT ITALY

Women’s Day, 8 March, is celebrated throughout the world. See page 7 for the Bagni di Lucca events at the Casinò of Ponte a Serraglio organized by Borgo degli Artisti. Art, photography & sculpture on display 5 to 12 March. Evening events 5/7/8/10/12 March, mostly conferences in Italian. The theme this year is Women’s Work. Contact: 320 1107330.

Women’s Day at Palazzo Mansi in Via Galli Tassi will be cele- Valdottavo (Borgo a Mozzano), Teatro Colombo weekly labs for brated on 11 March at 3.30pm with a visit & discussion of femi- discovering the theatre, creativity, physical expression. 3 Oct. nine beauty in the art of the palace. 15 euro. Students under 18 2016 until 30 June 2017. Children 3 to 6, 7 to 11, 12 to 16. Also Firenze, Cinema Odeon at Palazzo Strozzi. Original language years of age free. adult group. Call 368 453795 or email [email protected] films with Italian subtitles. This month the British film series fea-

www.teatrocolombo.it tures Trainspotting 2 (9 to 15 March). www.odeonfirenze.comMany towns hold their final Carnival celebration on 5 March. In Viareggio the final date is 5 March (because the 5 Feb. date Cinema Astra 21 March 9pm. Sogni d’Oro, a video produced was cancelled due to rain). See article in last month’s by Simone Rabassini in collaboration with the clients of Dr. Grapevine. Marchi of the hospital & Carla Nolledi of AML, approaching

Puccini’s life & places in a very special way. On 26 March we return to

legal time. That means, “spring forward, fall back” (turn your clocks forward).

This year, Easter falls on 16 April.

Lucca, Effetto Cinema Notte, 2 to 9 April. The city transforms it-Camellia Festival at Sant’Andrea & self into a huge open-air cinematographic set.Pieve di Compito. Japanese tea ceremo- [email protected] & other events. 11-12/18-19/25-26 March. A shuttle from the Frantoio Sociale Lucca on 10 & 11 April will host the foreign ministers of the G7 on Via di Tiglio (easily accessible by bus countries: USA, Canada, UK, Japan, Germany, France & Italy.or car) will take you to this enchanting area where you can enjoy botany, music, Lucca Tattoo Expo, Polo Fiere. 21-22-23 April.exhibits & camellia tea. For information: www.luccatattooexpo.itCentro Culturale Compitese. 0583 977188, 366 2796749. Lucca, Piazza San Frediano, Piazza Scalpellini, Anfiteatro, www.camelielucchesia.it Via Fillungo. Santa Zita flower show, 22 to 27 April.

VerdeMura garden show. 31 March to 2 April. On the Lucca Lucca Dance Meeting throughout the Centro Storico. 26 to Walls near Piazza Santa Maria. Friday noon to 7pm, Sat- 30 April. www.aed.danceSunday 9.30am to 7pm. Lucca, Centro Culturale Agorà, Piazza dei Servi. L’Agorà della

Scienza: Calendar for 2017 (lectures in Italian, 5.30pm): 25 Deadline for submissions to the 500th anniversary Ariosto Pisa’s medieval birthday celebrations take place on 25 Mar., La Geologia sull’Himalaya by Chiara Montomoli. 22 competition for Italian schools is 29 April 2017. Sponsored by March each year. There are historic re-enactments, fireworks, Apr., L’emigrazione umana dentro e fuori dall’Africa: una the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Town of boat races on the Arno & other events. prospett iva genetica, by Luca Pagani. 20 May, Castelnuovo Garfagnana & other local & regional entities.

Nanotecnologie by Alessandro Tredicucci. 10 June, Lo Project coordinator Pier Paolo Angelini.

spreco alimentare by Maria Rosaria Vergara. Tel. 0583 [email protected]

445716. www.agoradellascienza.it Lucca Contemporary Art Fair, 5 to 8 May.

4 Mar. 5pm, Futura Vegetale, una nuova visione delle piante Viareggio Cup, 13 to 29 March. Coppa Carnevale world foot- BOOKS: Some 2000 books in English donated to Grapevine by Stefano Mancuso. Sponsored by L’Agorà della Scienza & ball tournament. by several English & American residents in the Lucca region A.Di.P.A. Held at the Fondazione Ragghianti, San Micheletto.

in 2016 have found a new home at InAcademy, the language 3 March, Italian President Sergio Mattarella will be in Lucca to school at Via Tofanelli 275, San Concordio. When the shelves honor Maria Eletta Martini. are ready & the books catalogued, these will be available for

borrowing. Other books in English, donated by Paul Gervais & Gil Cohen, were inaugurated at the Agorà of Lucca in June 2016 and are available for consulting but not yet for borrow-

Book Club meetings at Da Francesco Restaurant (near the ing, since they still need to be catalogued into the Italian sys-

train station), last Wednesday of each month at 8pm. tem. At last inquiry, funds for this work were not available. The Querceta, Seravezza, 19 March. Festa of San Giuseppe. preliminary catalog for this first collection was completed by Stands line the streets, with clothing, animals & other items for in the spring of 2015 and can be consulted on our Grapevine conversation group at Cantine Bernardini (Piazza Grapevinesale. Rice fritelle are the typical food at this festival. web page. del Suffragio) Thursdays at 8.15pm. Come for a drink or dinner,

board games, English & Italian conversation. Call 333 8617962.San Cassiano di Controne (Bagni di Lucca) 19 March. Festa Note: One of our readers wrote to say that she was able to bor-of S. Giuseppe. 4pm at the Parrocchia. row books at the Agorà Library, including books in English. Italian language social group “4 chiacchiere” at LuccaLibri in

Viale R. Margherita 137, with Marina, Thursdays at 4.30pm. €5 There is a small collection of about 600 English-language pa-

plus drink. perbacks, mostly popular novels, located near the circulation desk. However, the statement above is still valid for the

Mondays 4pm international conversation group at Osteria dello Gervais/Cohen collection along the northern corridor of the

Stellario in Piazza San Francesco, Lucca. same floor.

Lucca, Auditorium L. Boccherini, Piazza del Suffragio. A reduced version of Puccini’s La Rondine, on 16 March at 10.30 & 12.30 in the morning. On 22 March at 10.30am, same location, guitar Lucca Film Festival & Europa Cinema. 14 March to 1 May. concert with Boccherini students & M° Giampaolo Bandini. Projections, displays, conferences, performances. Special AML Musica Ragazzi series. Concerts also open to the public. guests Oliver Stone, Aki Kaurismaki, Valeria Golino, Willem 3 euro. Tel. 0583 469960. www.assciazionemusicalelucchese.it Dafoe. www.luccafilmfestival.it

Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE, Via di Vorno 67. 5 March CineClub at Bagni di Lucca. 2 March Se Dio Vuole (Italian com-

at 3.30pm & 5pm. Butterfly, for children 6-7 years. 19 March at edy). 9 March Capitalism, A Love Story (American documen-

3.30pm & 5pm. I brutti anatroccoli, for children 3 to 10 years. tary by Michal Moore). 16 March La Bicicletta Verde set in Saudi Arabia. All films 9.15pm at the Biblioteca Comunale. Tel. 0583 87619, 335 5821084.

Florence, Harold Acton Library, Palazzo Lanfredini. Lectures every Wednesday at 6 pm. See details on page 4.

21 March is the first day of Spring.

LUCCA AND SURROUNDING TOWNS

Astronomical evenings at the Vorno Observatory, 19/20 March. 10pm. Guide Matteo Santangelo, reserve at 0583 971081.

Nature walks with E. Lunardi Amici della Montagna. €15 mem-bership (under 16 free). Group headquarters: Circoscrizione n. 3, via Einaudi, S. Anna. 5 March 7.30am, Rapallo, Sanctuary of Monte Allegro (contact Anna Maria Di Vito 339 7229894).

Collodi, Pinocchio Esce dalla Fiaba (Pinocchio emerges from the tale). From 16 Sept. 2016 to 1 May 2017.

Lucca, Biblioteca Statale Saloni Monumentali, Via S. Maria Corteorlandini 12. Mondays, 5pm, 10 Oct. to 20 March: L’Armi di Achille, readings from Homer’s Iliade. Sponsored by Amici del Macchiavelli & Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca. www.amicimacchiavelli.it

Lucca, Domus Romana, Via C. Battista. 24 March. Caius Largennius Lucca Legionnaire Comes Home. A faithful re-production of the Roman legionnaire’s funeral stele on display in Strasbourg, Germany, which was discovered in nearby Koenigshoffen in 1878.

Lucca, Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi. 2 March 4.30pm. La Quadreria di Stefano Conti, an exemplary collection from the 1700s. Speaker Paola Betti.

Viareggio, Dante Fridays at the Istituto di Istruzione Superiore Galilei-Artiglio, Villa Argentina. 20 Jan. to 28 April.

Cruciword

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

by Helen Askham


February solution

ACROSS8 Absurd (7)9 Excessive use (5)10 Back, as in back numbers (9)11 Tutto (3)12 Bows (5)14 Pleasantness, amenity (7)15 Cieli (7)17 Idiota (5)19 Teak (3)20 To have a conversation (9)22 ........... Flynn (5)23 Molto strano (7)

DOWN1 and 15 down Matto da legare, matto

come un cappellaio (3,2,1,6)2 Utente (4)3 Greengrocer (13)4 She-ass (6)5 Straitjackets (6,2,5)6 Moody, according to the moon (pl) (8)7 Madness (6)13 Biscotti salati, pazzo (8)15 See 1 down16 Exchanges (6)18 Tebe (6)21 Acre (4)

A crazy month

F A S C I N O F L U F

A O D R R N O

R O U T E F R E M I T O

F F E A N O L

A L F A I N F E R N O

L L A O S F

L A E R T E S I N F U L

A L S A A O

A F F E T T O A N N A

H E T R I T T

I N T R I G O S C I F I

F T C L E N N

I A F A L I F T I N G

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

10 11

12 13 14

15 16 17 18

19 20 21

22 23

sidewalk, deforming it. Once I gathered my wits, I was able to Emergency (Pronto Soccorso) have renewed my walk to my destination, although I couldn't move my arm. Like conviction that the no-frills Italian health system, at daughter like mother, I took a painkiller and waited several hours Mleast in our corner of Italy, is still among the world's before going to the hospital. There I had a rather long wait since I

best. I'm sharing this because more than once, new residents have was code green. The color scale ranges from extremely serious to asked my opinion on the matter. non-emergency; since my pain was tolerable and pregnant

A few weeks ago, my adult daughter hit her head on the corner women, ambulances and children came in that night, I had to pass of a glass shelf at work. She took a painkiller and tried to get on the time watching the Sanremo music festival on a silent tv along with her business, but a few hours later her friend called the doctor with everyone else who was waiting.on duty at 118 and was told clearly, “head injuries should always When they did finally get to me, I said I couldn't quite localize be taken seriously” and so they quickly sent an ambulance to pick the pain because my arm hurt from the shoulder right down to the her up. Although her vital signs were good, they placed her on a palm of my hand, and my opposite hip as well. I was surprised to bed and were soon checking her blood pressure, which was found discover that the x-ray machine was right there in Pronto to be normal. At that point she was told to wait for a CAT scan Soccorso, and they took about ten different images, very thorough (TAC in Italian), so I brought her a magazine and biscuits and a indeed. A very nice doctor, a woman, then told me I had a broken drink. A few hours later they sent her home with a clean bill of elbow. She wrapped me in a cast, or plaster (in Italian, gesso), from health. The TAC was free; the visit cost 35 euro. hand to shoulder. To be precise, this is a soft cast on the underside

Waiting is inevitable at any Emergency service, and isn't too of my arm with a firm “tutor” on the outside. unpleasant if you realize that they need to treat the most urgent I won't tell you how little I paid; suffice to say it would cases first. probably cost a hundred times more in the USA.

About ten days ago, I was enjoying a stroll on a sunshiny day In ten more days I will return to the hospital, the cast will be when the sidewalk seemed to fall out from under me. Actually, I removed and new photos of my elbow will be taken, and then I will had tripped at a point where a tree branch had grown under the thank the doctors and nurses for the good work they are doing.

y recent experiences at the San Luca Hospital

A Comment by the Editor: Lucca’s San Luca Hospital


Via G. Pascoli, 2P - BARGA - LUCCACell. 348 6920242

[email protected]

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HARPIST

f you are of a certain age, the word "groupie" conjures up

images of drug-addled cute young girls in short shorts and

crop tops angling for the attention of the rock star on stage, I and hoping to hook up with the members of the band. They

were perhaps less interested in the music than the singers, and the

prime objective of the evening was not to get an autograph. They

were known for following specific musical groups on tour, and

maybe trying to go to as many concerts as possible.

I am a groupie. I am also not young, nor cute, nor in any way

in the above categories. I do follow a particular Italian

rock/folk/pop singer around Italy, and I do go to as many of the

concerts as possible. After around forty concerts, I do know him

and the band members personally, but I go for the love of his voice

and their music, and for the social contacts with other fans.

It all started in the U. S. when I was homebound caring for my

invalid mother, and I stumbled onto Italian music and Italian

singers. I became interested in a song sung by Andrea Bocelli that

he recorded with Zucchero Fornaciari, called Miserere. Zucchero

wrote the song for Luciano Pavarotti. I found Zucchero's voice first concert as a solo artist, and there has been no looking back.

interesting, and researching him, became even more enamored of Having been in his fan club on social media, I already knew many

his voice and music. So, I am a groupie for Zucchero? No. of the people at the concert, although we had never met. His

I then started listening to other Italian singers and discovered leaving the big group has all been for the best, as I never would

a few singers and groups I liked: Stadio, Roberto Vecchioni, have been able to get to know him and his band if he had stayed

Tiziano Ferro, Mina, Daniele Rhonda, Lucio Dalla. I also liked a with the original group. I've had the joy of following him all over

group called I Nomadi, but the voice of the lead singer seemed to Italy, to every region, to small villages, and larger cities. I also

be inconsistent to me. Did I fall for one of them? No. have friends in every region because of his music and concerts,

Then one day, I was watching YouTube and came across and I have been to places that many Italians have never been.

Irene Fornaciari (daughter of the above Zucchero) who was I now define a groupie as someone who has become a part of a

singing in a big Italian singing competition in San Remo. Backing large group of people with a common goal, that of supporting and

her up was I Nomadi. The front man of the group, Danilo Sacco, loving the voice and music of a particular singer, and who is

had four lines. Four lines that were like an arrow into my heart. I accepted by those fans, even at my age. I highly recommend this

fell in love with this voice, and discovered with research that he life-style to others who are coming to Italy and want to meet

was the second lead singer with this band after the death of the Italians. Find a singer or group you love, make contact with other

beloved first singer, Augusto Daolio, thus explaining the fans on social media, and form a network of people with whom

inconsistencies of the voices I had heard. you have something in common. Use caution, do your research,

After the death of my mother in 2012, as I was preparing to then go to a concert in a beautiful piazza somewhere in Italy,

move to Italy for a year on a student visa, Danilo broke his fans' where you never thought you would be, with lovely new Italian

hearts by leaving I Nomadi. I would never hear him sing the songs friends you would otherwise never have met.

I had come to love, or sing along with the other fans. I was

distraught. Serendipitously, I arrived in Italy the day before his – by Dee Schaffer

Confessions of a Groupie

photo by pds

t's twilight and I am peacefully washing my hands in the guest bathroom of Kathleen's farmhouse in the hills outside of Lucca. Two days ago my friend left to visit her family in IICalifornia, and I am now on my own as official house, dog

and cat sitter for six weeks. The bathroom is one flight up from the living/dining room and kitchen, and one flight down from my turret level bedroom. Doubling as a laundry room, the bathroom contains a front-loading washer.

Soaping my hands lazily, I look back at the washing machine and see two glowing lights: red for stop, and yellow for on. How could the machine be on and off at the same time? Does it suffer from a split personality?

In my new rural casalinga role, this morning I gathered my small load of laundry. I put the soap in the right place, pressed the “Start” button and left. After I returned from walking a mile down the hill to empty the trash into the public bin, I wrote in my journal, got two loads of wood from the cavernous stone woodshed, and walked the dogs. The lavatrice was still running. I wasn't surprised. Italian washing machines often take two to four hours to complete a load because they rest between cycles. I've often thought many of us need to emulate this

shrug my shoulders. Nodding vigorously, model in our over-stressed, over-scheduled, Franca immediately agrees that these hurried and harried American lives.simultaneous lights offer a contradiction in Today the washer's lights won't go out, terms. She explains that she has never owned a and I am obsessed. Unplugging is not an washing machine. For the next ten minutes we option. Connecting to power in the very few make sympathetic noises, beat our chests, and outlets in this ancient house requires true repeat accendere ...on, and spegnere ... off . artistry. Don't mess with it, Kathleen warned

Franca suggests that I push Start, but I rule me in my orientation session.that out, thinking that now we might start a During her period of instruction, I put

whole new cycle, only this time with an empty machine. We agree sticky notes on each appliance as she unveiled its mystery to me. We that we have no answer to this dilemma, so we go back downstairs. spent at least twenty minutes on the caldaia, the water heater.

As we stand together in the living room, Franca looks up at the Embedded in my brain is the understanding that at the first clap of wood beam ceiling, peers into the adjacent dining room, and says, I thunder, I must shut the caldaia off. And even on sunny days, I must was born in this house. I lived here for sixteen years. We all lived in not use more than one appliance at a time. That includes the toaster the kitchen and the dining room. This living room used to be a and my hair dryer, although as one person, I am unlikely to be stable for the animals, and the rooms upstairs where you are simultaneously hair drying and bread toasting. Last year, while I was staying were the hayloft. Even with my limited Italian, I drying my hair upstairs, Kathleen was toasting her bread downstairs. understand her words and the tears in her eyes.We were plunged into instant darkness at four in the morning, just as

we were about to go to Pisa Airport to catch my flight. That morning, I learned the precise location of the circuit breaker box. Franca explains that her father was a contadino, who tended the

olive groves for the ancient Tuscan family whose extensive acreage included the building we are standing in. At sixteen, Franca moved Now the lights still glare ominously; the manual is in German, to a house on the other side of a nearby slope, within shouting and I had neglected to put a sticky note on the washing machine. distance. Now, at seventy plus, she lives in a tiny apartment that was When it finally finished its last gasp earlier today, I had rushed to carved out of a large stone structure, just a few doors away. All of empty it and get my laundry out on the line. Had I taken the wash these buildings once housed animals, hay, and contadini, and today out too soon? Now, if I start cooking dinner, will I inadvertently the heirs live in villas just about a mile from us. Ancient agreements turn on something that will result in a plunge into darkness? I may mandate that they continue to provide housing for the descendants of never be able to dry my hair again if I can't shut the washing the contadini, and so Franca has stayed.machine off.

The next day Kathleen's handyman solved the washing machine I decide to consult my sweet neighbor, Franca. First, though, I problem for me, but when Franca left, the two eyes of the washing have to learn how to say, Both on and off lights of the washing ma-machine were still glaring brightly. I thank them for illuminating a chine are lit up at the same time, and I can't shut them off. This turns way of life I never could have imagined.out to be an overwhelming challenge, so I settle for I don't under-

stand something about the washing machine. Can you help me? – by Dee Montalbano

Franca comes to the door of her apartment, her black hair pulled into a bun and dressed impeccably, as usual. She protests that she A long-term annual visitor to Lucca since 2004, Dee Montalbano doesn't know anything about washing machines, but agrees to come teaches her MoonWriting workshops in Lucca, and in Boulder, and look at mine. We climb the long steep flight of stairs to the Colorado. Her book, Crossing Seventy: Moments of Outrageous bath/laundry room, and together, we face the washing machine. I Ageing, is featured on Amazon, and she can be reached at wave my hands, point at the two lights, grimace, shake my head, and [email protected].

The Lavatrice and the History Lesson


Spring is also a good time for creating new gardens. Often, when

had a taste of the season to come. In spring, we begin to do this we forget the importance of regulating water and

everything happens quickly and there is an drainage systems, which are of great importance for the cultivation of MMexplosion of color once again. The grass turns plants and lawns. These systems allow us to avoid water pooling and

green, the plants that were bare all winter again start to put on new they help with water run-off (above all rainwater) that would

dress, the first bulbs push up from the ground, the fruit trees burst otherwise remain in our gardens, causing root diseases and in some

into bloom. cases asphyxia of the roots, weakening the plants. Practically

Our regional weather center continues to confirm above speaking, we make underground channels, especially in places where

average temperatures and average rainfall for March. This water accumulates after the rains (but also around wells or low-lying

probably means that the process of vegetative re-growth arriving flowerbeds, around wooden poles or against walls, etc…), so that the

early, which has already been underway for several seasons, will water is directed into public drains and canals that generally border

probably continue. our properties. One classical method is the following:

Let's return to what we need to do to take care of our gardens Once we have identified where the drainage system is needed,

and our beloved plants at this time of year, so that they can grow and where we want to collect the water to be drained off

and develop harmoniously, offering us emotions, perfumes and (remembering that water doesn't run uphill, so the departure point

flavors as only nature knows how. should be slightly higher than the arrival point), we dig a trench at

We begin by opening up the greenhouse doors and windows least 50cm deep connecting the two points. Along this trench we

during the warmer hours of the day, so that the plants housed there position a layer of gravel (pieces measuring at least 3 to 4cm), for a

through the winter can gradually adjust to the new temperatures. minimum height of 10cm, on which we place a special tube with

We start to cut the grass again, doing this if possible when the cuts on its sides (these are sold in various diameters). We wrap the

grass is dry. After the first mowing, we fertilize in order to give the tubing with tessuto-non-tessuto (a type of fabric used in

grass the necessary nutrients so that it will again start to grow. If we gardening) to absorb the water, which we apply using a thin piece

haven't already done so, at the beginning of this month we still of wire or with some other type of fastener such as a piece of rubber

have time to do the winter pruning of the roses (usually this tubing or cable connection.

involves re-shaping them), after which we can do an anti- After positioning the tube on the gravel, we then use a level to

cryptogrammic treatment to disinfect the cuts. see if there is in fact the necessary angle for the water to drain off,

This time of year is also good for pruning aromatic plants like after which we pour more gravel over the tube, covering it to a

rosemary (after it flowers), sage, thyme and savory. Even these height of about 10cm. We then place another piece of tessuto-non-

might need a thorough pruning (without overdoing it), so that the tessuto over the gravel, so that the soil we place over the

plants' stems don't become too woody and break off, or the excavation will not get into the gravel and reduce its drainage

branches so long and heavy that they too risk snapping off under capacity. We pour some light soil over the fabric, for a layer of

the weight of excess vegetation that the plants can't support. about 20-30 cm, in order to cover the entire excavation. Now

Some acidophilus plants such as azaleas and rhododendrons everything looks as it did before, but our drainage system is under

(above all if cultivated in excessively humid locations) may need the ground, helping the grass and plants in their growth.

a preventive treatment for a type of fungus known as Happy gardening to all!

Phytophthora, which during the winter and summer periods

attacks the roots of these plants. To combat this fungus, we can – by Simone Lippi

use products available commercially, in particular those that have Il Cerchio Verde

fosetyl-aluminum as their active principal, since this is currently 0583 316713 – 335 8354437

considered to be low in toxicity. www.ilcerchioverde.it

y friends, already beginning in late February we


March Gardening

transform its look and feel with little more than a shoestring budget. Mundane rooms can be transformed into bespoke interiors full of character and style. Tuscany uses a AA

distinct palette of colours inspired by its magnificent countryside. Such colours are slightly weathered yet effortlessly stylish with a timeless feel. So what are the traditional Tuscan painting schemes worth knowing about? Should you dare mix contemporary and traditional? Are there specific paints that need to be used and what are the costs?

Old farmhouses traditionally used natural colours found in the surrounding environment. These ranged from sky and cobalt blue, to earth tones such as rich ochre, deep golden yellow and brownish orange, right through to the many greens found in nature. In the past, each room was characterized with its own personal colour. The idea of a wooden or terracotta skirting board (baseboard) was unheard of. Instead a contrasting washable painted strip was employed about 12cm to 15cm from the floor. In some cases, the top of this strip would have a line or two delineating the intersection with the body of the wall and in more elaborate rooms a shadow could be introduced. The upper segment of the walls would also have a dedicated bright colour and drop by 25cm to 30cm from the ceiling with a line or two to make a clean demarcation.

The beauty of painting is that you can experiment, and experimenting is fun! For those seeking a more contemporary look, an old beam, joist and terracotta ceiling can look fantastic by white washing it perhaps with the wood colour peeping through here or there, using a rough brush stroke. This can be beautifully offset using a contrast colour on the walls and skirting. Colours in Tuscany need to be carefully chosen as there's not an awful lot of natural light flowing into the rooms. Many home owners will confirm that the light is dramatically different in Tuscany compared to that of other northern countries, meaning that small paint sample charts don't work very well.

The type of paints employed can vary significantly. The basic paints are usually acrylic based, which means they've got plastic in them. Then there are more natural mineral-based paints. These can allow the walls to breathe and are very important, for example, when anti-damp plaster is employed. Lime-based paints will disinfect the walls when applied. In bathrooms and kitchens, an anti-mould paint may be the preferred choice.

Externally, many municipalities will prescribe a narrow range of colours and hues, and that's why you never see outrageous paint schemes in old towns and villages! Such limitations apply to properties located in villages, historic centres or areas with environmental restrictions. A small sample of the desired colour is painted on the façade and can be subject to approval by the local planners.

For a paint job, expect to pay an average of about 3 to 5 euro per square meter for internal works. Façade painting will usually cost about 7 to 8 euro per square meter, but this can vary depending on the paint employed, the type of render and the desired effect. Surcharges apply to window and door surrounds or lines and special shadow effects.

There's no doubt about it, a touch of Tuscan colour will make your home in Tuscany a very special place!

David Collins, an engineer by profession, has lived and worked in Tuscany for over 20 years. He manages Our Toscana providing house surveys, plans & permits and undertakes all kinds of restoration projects throughout Tuscany. David is the author of Buying & Restoring in Tuscany – A Practical Guide and lives near Lucca with his Italian wife and two children.

For information: [email protected] / www.ourtoscana.com

dding a touch of colour to your Tuscan home can rapidly

A Touch of Tuscan Colour


simplest of ingredients. Use as a pasta sauce, or as the basis for a shallot and garlic soup, or even a shallot dip. Your call.

And since we adopted Italians love a risotto, how about trying this one which uses shallots and rocket (and two types of cheese unless you're vegan, in which case you can get a vegan substitute if you're so minded):

Ingredients:� 1 litre good chicken or vegetable stock� 40g butter/OR coconut oil� 2 tbsp olive oil� 12 shallots, or cipollini, peeled and roughly diced� 320g risotto rice� 1-2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed� Dash of white wine� 200g cubed gorgonzola cheese� 50g grated parmesan� Sea salt and black pepper� 50g rocket, washed

1. Heat the stock in a saucepan until just simmering, leave on a low heat. Melt the butter and olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan

S until the butter is just foaming.versatile. They're excellent pickled (your panini will agree) and 2. Add the diced shallots and sauté, stirring for 2 to 3 minutes until perfect for frying in oil for a crunchy topping. Not to mention, they softened but not brown, then add the rice and garlic and mix with make any sauce irresistible. Their health benefits are pretty the shallots, butter (or coconut oil) and olive oil. Cook until the rice impressive too: they're rich in flavonols and polyphenolic turns slightly opaque but not browned, approximately 1 minute. compounds, which are actually in higher quantities in shallots than Add the wine.in onions and garlic; they also contain dietary fibre, protein, vitamin 3. Add a good ladle-ful of hot stock. Stir until all the liquid has C, potassium, folate, vitamin A, vitamin B6 and manganese. been absorbed. Continue adding the stock a ladle-ful at a time,

When you crush shallots, they release antioxidants which help stirring constantly (about 20-25 minutes) until the rice is slightly to reduce cell mutation, and their high mineral content (higher than al dente, i.e. with a slight bite to it. The consistency should be like the onion if we're having a competition here) helps boost the a thick porridge. Add the 2 cheeses and mix well. Season with production of those wonderful red blood cells. As the saying goes, black pepper and sea salt.what's not to like? Oh yes, and they also help with blood pressure 4. Stir in the rocket and cook for a further 30 seconds or until the and diabetes control and they increase energy, vitality, cell re- rocket is just wilted. Remove from the heat. If the risotto becomes growth and healing! too thick add a little more stock, then serve with roasted whole

So here's a good start: caramelised shallots and garlic to eat balsamic shallots (that's a no-brainer, just put shallots in a roasting with your favourite pasta (and if you're reading this you know tin with olive oil or coconut oil and roast till ready) and shavings how to cook pasta, gluten free or not). Caramelizing shallots (or of parmesan cheese.onions), by slowly cooking them in a little olive oil until they are – by Judith Edwardsrichly browned, is a wonderful way to pull flavour out of these www.cansurviving.com - [email protected]

hallots are sweeter than onions and maybe even more


The Sheer Versatility of the ShallotThe words scallion and shallot are related

and can be traced back to the Greek áóêïëüíéïí (askolonion) as described by

the Greek writer Theophrastus. So now you know.

Ingredients: 1. Fry the onions until golden and add the pear cut into small cubes.

� 1 onion, chopped 2. Add wine until it evaporates and add the rice or farro.� 1 large pear, cut into small cubes 3. Slowly add the liquid broth a little at a time until rice or spelt is � Basmati or risotto rice or farro (spelt) cooked and liquid absorbed (20-25 minutes). Salt or pepper to � White wine, half a glass taste.� Salt and pepper 4. Turn the heat off and add the Gorgonzola and walnuts. Serve � Brodo vegetale (you can make this from a stock cube) immediately.� Gorgonzola

Buon appetito!� Chopped walnuts

– by Rita Kobrak

Risotto or Spelt with Pear and Gorgonzola This is a tasty and easy recipe.

It is supposed to be done with rice but I substituted farro instead as I love farro, plus it is so healthy.

MONTEMARCELLO, 15 minutes from LUCCA, Monte San Quirico, possibility of Lerici, apartament facing the lovely town reaching Lucca's historic center on foot. square in Ameglia, with sea views from Small apartment in excellent condition, every window. A departure point for CAI already semi-furnished, with living room, hiking trails overlooking panoramas of Lerici kitchenette, bedroom & bathroom. € 79,000 & the Cinque Terre. € 155,000 Cl G IPE 375, Cl F IPE 172,606 www.remax.it/30811014-1845 www.remax.it/30811011-259

LUCCA, walking distance from the Walls, restored apartment with living room, 2 bed-rooms, bath & 45 sqm terrace. Space for 2 cars in garage. Cantina. Can be purchased furnished or unfurnished. € 200,000. Cl D IPE 128,5 www.remax.it/30811014-21

UZZANO, 27 km from Lucca, 2 adjacent LUCCA Historic Center, in an easily accessi-rustic houses, with pool & 7 hectares of land. ble area, luminous & quiet 2nd floor apart-Perfectly restored & furnished, with a total of ment with typical Tuscan features. Entrance, 7 bedrooms & 5 bathrooms. Currently used living room, kitchenette, 2 bedrooms, bath, as a bed & breakfast. Ready for generating storage & laundry area. earnings, or to enjoy with one's own family. € 240,000 negotiable. € 640,000. Cl G IPE 256,89Cl F IPE 194 www.remax.it/30811013-1 www.remax.it/30811002-399

LUCCA, Montuolo, 4 km from the Centro QUIESA, halfway between Lucca & the sea, Storico, semi-detached home with large in a building once used for processing rice, garden. Excellent condition, ready to live in. delightful rebuilt & semi-furnished apartment Living room, large furnished kitchen, 2 double on 3rd floor with elevator. Entrance,

livingroom/kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 1 bath. bedrooms, wardrobe room, 2 baths. € € 165,000. Cl G IPE 267,70198.000. www.remax.it/30811001-821 CI F IPE 340,8 www.remax.it/30811001-818

LUNIGIANA, in a town between the Cinque Terre & the ski slopes, small house with garden divided into 2 apartments. In excellent condition, furnished, perfect as a base for your Tuscan vacation, between the sea & mountains. A great value! € 75,000. Cl G IPE 345,97 www.remax.it/30811011-203


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Gabriele Monottoli, Geometra

Tassignano 55012 Capannori, Lucca

via del Marginone n. 129

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Villina delle Rose near San Macario,

15 km west of Lucca and 15 km east of

Camaiore beach, is a beautiful 2

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Lucca, Apartment for rent at San

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335 6777833

via De Gasperi n° 279 • 55100 Lucca

[email protected] • www.ri-struttura.itProfessional offices

Elegant, spacious apartment on the ring road of Lucca. Top floor with elevator and terrace. Currently used for professional studios but available in a few months. Re-styling is needed for residential use. 175 sqm, approx 30 sqm terrace, 8 large rooms, 3 of which look onto the priceless panorama of Lucca's walls. Original floor tiles and woodwork, high ceilings. 420,000 euros (negotiable). Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1141)

painting - varnishing - plastering - resin finishesContact Ranieri Organelli

cell 338 8701365 fax 0583 [email protected]

A short stroll from Lucca’s town center, this spacious, well-kept home in Sant'Anna has 12 rooms (4-6 bedrooms & 3 baths), with a garden & patio on 4 sides. Built in the early 1900s. € 850,000. Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref. 1144)

Country dream home. Large country kitchen with pantry, cozy sitting room, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool & English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling thru meadows & forest. Wheelchair access & large parking area. Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). € 750,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)

Tel: 348 3301134

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Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

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Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers indi-Holiday marketing/booking company. We require extra holiday letting vidual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with inter-properties for the 2017 season in the province of Lucca, email: preting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. [email protected] (Ref. 1161) 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)Magazzino for office/studio use in Lucca Centro Storico at ground floor. with bathroom. € 410 per month. Contact Grapevine. Italian Teacher experienced, qualified, multilin-

gual. Bureaucratic solutions, practical services. 339 1639451 Mary O. J. www.internationalfriends.eu (Ref. 1144)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)

Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine.

Moving Sale Lucca Whole house contents of quality for sale including antiques, wardrobes, piano, furniture, mirrors, paintings etc. Please email [email protected] for list. (Ref. 1100)

Ashford Traditional Spinning Wheel with accessories, as new. Email [email protected] (Ref. 1149)

Lawyer Daniela Forti. My law firm is located in the beautiful art town of Pietrasanta (Lucca). In 2016 I obtained the international certification TOLES Higher (Test of Legal English Skills). I can therefore offer my foreign clients not only my legal advice but the possibility of speaking directly in English as Leonardo in Digital Welcome to my site! It's well. Cell 348 8098799 www.fortilawyerintuscany.com (Ref. 1113) full of beauty, both expected and unexpected...

(Ref. 1133)

UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Miss Penny Apple Vintage Tea Party. Catered at your location or, on the 2nd & 4th Saturday each month (3.30 pm), at Villa Claudia in Forte dei Marmi. On Facebook or email [email protected]

Landscape design & Garden maintenance [email protected] (Ref. 1160)– www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso cell. (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572)

English lessons with madre lingua T.E.F.L. qualified teacher. Group and private lessons for adults and children. Rita, tel 349 5018679 also available for babysitting (references provided) (Ref. 1158)Yoga, fitness and cooking courses in the stunning area of Caprese Michelangelo. Accommodation in renovated farmhouse with pool, food and all activities included for adults and children. www.holiday-villa-in-tuscany.com Tel 349 5018679.Weekly rentals available. (Ref. 1159)

Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)Chiropractor Cynthia Christensen, DC. Esculapio Centro Medico. Viale S. Concordio 665, 55100 Lucca. Cell 340 4142329.Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 492853.Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected] Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected]

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Lawyer Enrico Del Buono - Lucca, Via San Marco, 584 - Viareggio, Via IV Novembre, 107 - Montecatini Terme, Via Maona 7. Tel. 0583 587532, cell. 347 2232535, [email protected]

Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

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Woman Rising from the Seaby Jill Casty

grapevin tuscany’s e · 2018. 4. 9. · vineyards, garage. 2200 sqm land. 450,000 euro gallicano,...

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