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MontecuccoA special eight-page sponsored guide to Tuscany’s last unexplored wine region, which is fast gaining a reputation for hand-crafted wines of authentic character

Produced by Decanter in association with Consorzio Tutela Montecucco. Editorial written by Richard Baudains

Contents82 Anauthentictaste

ofTuscany It won’t be long before the wines of

Montecucco are more widely known. Richard Baudains lets us in on the secret

86 Must-trywines A round-up of 20 top buys, covering three red

vintages and a couple of delicious Vermentinos

88 TouringMontecuccoGet off the beaten track in the real Tuscany: we tell you what to do, plus where to stay and eat

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Below: Castel del Piano is one of seven communes in Tuscany permitted to use the name Montecucco

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An authentic taste of Tuscany

Wine lovers who want a true taste of Tuscany should discover the little-known wines of Montecucco, urges Richard Baudains

Stand at the centre of the historic borgo which gives its name to the area, and on one side the horizon is defined by the massive outline of Monte Amiata. On the other, on a clear day with good eyesight and a little imagination, you can just make

out the sea beyond the lines of rolling hills. In the morning, a warm breeze from the coast rattles the windows; in the evening a stiff, cool wind, which comes down from the mountain, rustles the leaves in the vineyards. In all directions the eye is met by a patchwork of woods, olive groves, pastures, arable land and vineyards in a landscape of centuries-old biodiversity. Narrow, bumpy lanes link

the villages in the sparsely populated countryside and medieval castles look down on the valleys from their strategic hill-tops. There are no major towns, no electricity pylons, no advertising hoardings, no arterial roads, no aircraft flying overhead. This is Montecucco, Tuscany’s last unexplored wine region.

As a recent denomination, Montecucco is largely unknown outside an increasing circle of admiring critics and wine professionals. The historic Tuscan DOCs were created in the 1960s; the first DOCGs in the 1980s. Montecucco only formally came into being in 1998. At that time, the producers’ register contained a mere 10 or so names and the area had barely 100 hectares of vineyard.

In the past decade, Montecucco has grown at an extraordinary pace, not only in size but also in quality and ambition. Today there are almost 800ha under vine, around 70 producers and an annual output of 1.8 million bottles. The wines are starting to be sold in international markets, but a wide range is not readily available outside the region – yet. Promotion of the wines is gearing up and we will certainly be seeing more of them in the future.

Regional stylesThe Montecucco DOCG zone is located in the most northerly part of the province of Grosseto. To the south are the coastal hills of Morellino di Scansano, while to the north, across the river Orcia, lies Montalcino. Although the DOC takes in a vast area, most of the wine growing is concentrated in three of the seven comunes entitled to use the name Montecucco: Castel del Piano, Cinigiano and Seggiano. There are also smaller producers around the villages of Civitella Paganico and Campagnatico.

Castel del Piano, on the lower slopes of Monte Amiata, has vineyards which stretch up to 450 metres above sea level, but the typical elevation for the DOCG goes from 300 metres to about 380 metres. Soils around Cinigiano, at the heart of Montecucco, are generally lean, dry and stony, with large areas of fragmented sandstone similar to that found in Chianti. Moving south-west towards the

‘Montecucco is largely unknown outside an increasing circle of admiring critics and wine professionals… This is Tuscany’s last unexplored wine region’

coast they become finer, while closer to Monte Amiata, at Castel del Piano and Seggiano, volcanic soils predominate. In terms of climate, the latitude guarantees the sunshine of southern Tuscany, but the heat is mitigated by altitude and the alternating air currents, which encourage gradual ripening and preserve the aromas and good acidity.

The conditions for wine growing are extraordinary, but history is made by people, and a crucial role in the development of the DOCG has been played by the dynamic local consorzio, which brings together a group of estate owners, from third or fourth generation smallholders to new boutique winery proprietors and major investors with vast managerial experience.

Claudio Tipa belongs to the latter category. Towards the end of the 1990s, Tipa, a leading industrialist in high-tech communications and security systems, decided it was time for a new challenge. He had an appointment to look over a castle with a view to buying into a wine production area in the southern Maremma. When the ➢

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appointment fell through he asked the estate agent accompanying him if there was anything else going in the area. It transpired that there was a dilapidated place in the hills further north. The minute Claudio Tipa saw the medieval castle of ColleMassari, he knew he had to buy it, even though it came with only a single hectare of vineyard. The decision marked what he describes as ‘the most fantastic period of my life’. His first wine came out in 2002. In the 10 years since, Tipa, who is president of the consorzio, has transformed ColleMassari into a thriving 110ha wine estate, which is one of the driving forces behind Montecuccco, not only in wine production but also in wider social and financial spheres.

Then there are the historic figures of the area represented by farmers such as Riccardo Catocci, from Le Calle, who has always produced wine alongside the half-dozen other typical agricultural products on his organic farm. Or Leonardo Salustri, long-standing member of the consorzio, whose highly acclaimed old-vine selections have a cult following among Sangiovese lovers. Then there are newcomers, such as Simone Toninelli, at Amiata, who studied law then crossed over to agronomy and now makes a micro-production of prize-winning wine from tiny plots among the highest in the DOCG. Another newcomer is Daniele Rosellini, former oenologist of the Chianti Classico consorzio, a winemaker and agronomist with a distinguished career in consultancy and estate management. He chose Montecucco for his own estate and winery because of the combination of soils and climate for growing Sangiovese – he called it ‘Campi Nuovi’ because he was planting on virgin soils.

Shared philosophiesEvery producer has his own story, but they form a cohesive group, with many shared philosophies. A key example of this is the commitment to growing organically. A high proportion of the top producers in Montecucco practise organic or biodynamic viticulture. The climate and the natural balance of the ecosystem favour non-invasive approaches, as Claudio Tipa discovered. ‘It was easy to go organic when we started out, because everything here already was,’ he says. But this is not just about respecting the rural status quo. What the Italian call ‘bio’ is one of the cutting-edge research areas in viticulture. As ColleMassari agronomist Giuliano Guerrini points out, ‘organic growing isn’t a step into the past, it’s three steps into the future’.

The other key area of consensus is in the approaches to vinification. Montecucco is an area of hand-crafted wines that aim for natural expressions of the grape variety and the terroir. ‘In 2004, I fired my oenologist and threw out the barriques,’ says Leonardo Salustri, in a statement which encapsulates the thinking of many producers. Rather than rely on oenological wizardry, the emphasis is on low yields of perfectly ripe fruit and grape selection at

Montecucco: the small printnew regulations come into force with the 2011 vintage. significantly, they make a clear distinction between ‘sangiovese doCg’, which producers see very much as the focus wine, and the ‘rosso doC’ blend. Compared to the previous production norms, the new regulations lower the yields, increase the percentage of sangiovese and extend the period of ageing for Montecucco sangiovese. They also leave the yields and the grape composition unchanged for the entry-level ‘rosso’ and reduce the ageing period for the rosso riserva.

Montecucco Sangiovese DOCGYields 49hl/haGrapes sangiovese minimum 90%; others maximum 10%Ageing 12 months, plus four months in bottle

Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva DOCGYields 49hl/haGrapes sangiovese minimum 90%; others maximum 10%

Ageing 24 months, plus six in bottle

Montecucco Rosso DOCYields 63hl/haGrapes sangiovese minimum 60%; others maximum 40%Ageing release from 1 september in the year after the vintage

Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOCYields 63hl/haGrapes sangiovese minimum 60%; others maximum 40%Ageing 12 months, plus six in bottle

Montecucco Vermentino DOCYields 77hl/haGrapes 85% VermentinoAgeing release from 1 February in the year after the vintage

The regulations also introduce, for the first time, a Montecucco rosato (rosé) based on sangiovese and Ciliegiolo; Montecucco Vin santo made from native white varieties; and a Montecucco Vin santo occhio di pernice based mainly on sangiovese.

the level of a top Bordeaux château. The leading estates, including the big ones such as ColleMassari, crush by hand, macerate and ferment their wines in conical wooden vats and age in medium-sized traditional barrels or possibly 500-litre tonneaux. Many, such as Daniele Rosellini, use indigenous yeasts.

The result is wine of distinctive personality that begins at entry level with Montecucco Rosso, an often unoaked Sangiovese blend which may contain international grapes (small doses of Cabernet and Syrah work well), though many producers prefer to use local ones – ‘Ciliegiolo is our Merlot,’ says Stefano Alessandri of Tenuta Montecucco. Montecucco Rosso is deliciously fresh and grapey, with substance on the palate and huge drinkability.

Straight Montecucco Sangiovese is the next step up, a drier and more intense wine which starts to drink at three to four years from the vintage. In theory, Montecucco Sangiovese may include smaller percentages of other varieties, but the most representative wines come from pure Sangiovese.

At the top of the range are the Riservas, either Rosso or Sangiovese. These are serious, full-bodied wines, which begin to show their best at around five to six years and are intended for the long haul.

What all the wines share is great fruit definition, with intriguing wild herb nuances, perhaps reminiscent of thyme and rosemary, good acidity which gives freshness and energy, mature tannins and a tangy, mineral finish. This mineral quality carries over into the white Montecucco Vermentino, which represents around one-fifth of the total output and is gaining in popularity.

Red wine, however, is the real theme at Montecucco and that comes down to Sangiovese. Firmer and more structured than the softer Morellino di Scansano to the south, but at the same time more supple than the neighbouring Brunello di Montalcino, Montecucco Sangiovese has a character all of its own. Much work has been done in the past decade, in collaboration with the Univesity of Pisa, to select indigenous Sangiovese rather than import standard clones, tracking down genetic material from ancient vineyards in the Maremma or reproducing old sub-varieties already in the local area. Montecucco Sangiovese has recently gained approval for upgrading to DOCG, the highest level in the Italian classification system (see box, left). The production norms devised by the consorzio that come with the new status make a clear statement: they reduce the percentage of complementary grapes, they cut yields to the lowest levels of anywhere in Italy and increase the ageing period for the Riserva. The gauntlet is down. The challenge is to rival the very best – and all the signs are that Montecucco is up for it.

Above right: Claudio Tipa, president of Montecucco’s Consorzio. Above: the castle of ColleMassari is just one of several medieval castles in the area that tourists can admire

‘A high proportion of the top producers practise organic or biodynamic viticulture. The climate and the natural balance of the ecosystem favour non-invasive approaches’

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Pieve Vecchia, Campo di Noce Montecucco Vermentino 2011 16.5 (88)n/a UK www.cantinapievevecchia.com

Interesting, very personal nose, with a gentle floral quality and hints of beeswax. Soft, round palate with good body and balance, delicate white peach fruit and a lightly aromatic finish. Drink 2012–2013 Alc 13%

Basile, Ad Agio, Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 2008 17 (90)POa Ethical Edibles

Bright mid-ruby shade, starting to develop. Mature nose, with sweet leather, tobacco leaf and herbs. Linear, mid-weight palate with fine vigorous tannins and lots of freshness and grip in the finish. Ready now. Drink 2012–2016 Alc 14%

Prato al Pozzo, Montecucco Sangiovese 2009 17 (90)POa Il Tastevin

Deep ruby. Plum jam and quite a lot of dark, chocolatey oak on the nose, with the familiar background of wild herbs. Polished tannins on the palate, sweet and juicy finish. Well-crafted modern style. Drink 2012–2016 Alc 13.5 %

ColeMassari, Irisse Montecucco Vermentino 2010 17pts/20 (90pts/100)POa Decorum Vintners

Bright buttercup yellow, rich and complex on the nose with apricot, honey and acacia aromas and a touch of vanilla from the oak. Full-bodied but well balanced with good freshness and a glossy finish. Drink 2012–2015 Alcohol 14.5%

Salustri, Grotte Rosse, Montecucco Sangiovese 2008 17.5 (91)n/a UK www.salustri.it

Young, bright shade of ruby. The nose is influenced by the oak, with bags of juicy cherry and plum aromas. The palate is firm and dry, again with some oak to integrate, and with a very long and tangy finish. Still needs time. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14%

Piandibugnano, Cuccaia Montecucco Rosso 2010 17 (90)n/a UK www.piandibugnano.com

Dark ruby shade and a Mediterranean-herby nose and some well-integrated sweet oak. Good fruit and herby mix on a soft, full-bodied palate. Long finish with a firm grip and a touch of spice. Drink 2012–2013 Alc 13%

Amiata, Cenere, Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 2007 17.5 (91)n/a UK www.amiatavini.it

Sweet cherry jam on the nose with intriguing hints of rosemary and thyme in the background. Starts soft and round on the palate and develops long and tangy, with fine dry tannins and a leafy-mineral finish. Drink 2012–2020 Alc 14%

Podernovo, Antica Miniera Montecucco Rosso 2010 16.5 (88)n/a UK www.podernuovovini.it

Bright, fresh, young ruby. Lots of wild berry on the nose, with a touch of graphite. The palate is mid-weight, fresh, juicy and fruit-driven with sweet blackberry on the finish and good length. Drink 2012–2013 Alc 13%

Parmoleto, Montecucco Sangiovese 2008 17.5 (91)n/a UK www.parmoleto.it

Mid-ruby shade, starting to grade at the edges. Ripe fruit, pressed flowers and baked earth on the nose. Mature palate with smooth tannins, great breadth and concentrated candied fruit and aromatic herbs on the finish. Drink 2012–2018 Alc 14.5%

Assolati, Montecucco Rosso 2010 17 (90)n/a UK www.assolati.it

Pale ruby. Red fruit with delicate floral aromas on the nose. Fresh, lively palate with mid-weight tannins and elegant balance; supple and long with a savoury finish. Delicious drinking. Drink 2012–2015 Alc 14.5%

ColleMassari, Lombrone, Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 2008 18 (93) POa Decorum Vintners

Very dark ruby. Big fruit and toasty oak nose and big impact on the palate, with intense fruit and lots of raw power in the tannins. The finish is long and minerally, austere now but great potential. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14%

Le Querciole, Montecucco Rosso 2010 17 (90)n/a UK lequerciole@virgilio.it

Big, dark ruby look. Rich, jammy nose with hints of wild thyme in the background. Lots of fruit on the palate, fleshy texture and a long, grippy finish with a return of wild herbs. Drink 2012–2016 Alc 14%

Tenute Folonari, Vigne a Porrona, Montecucco Sangiovese 2010 18 (93)n/a UK www.tenutefolonari.it

Dark, saturated ruby shade. Rich and complex on the nose, with plum and blackberry fruit and an underlay of caramel and spicy oak. Big, serious palate with a chewy texture and lots going on in the finish. Still needs time. Drink 2013–2018 Alc 15.5%

Poderi Firenze, Sotto Casa, Montecucco Rosso 2009 18 (93)n/a UK www.poderifirenze.it

Bright, not over-extracted ruby shade. Very refined nose, with fresh cherry, sweet herbs, rose petal and a touch of black pepper. Mid-weight, elegant, silky palate, with fine tannins and a long fresh finish. Drink 2012–2016 Alc 13.5%

Podere Assolati, Montecucco Sangiovese 2008 18 (93)n/a UK www.assolati.it

Very deep ruby shade. Ripe, slightly baked nose with lots of sweet spice and pot pourri and a touch of tar. Vigorous palate, with depth and substance and a long, rich, dense finish full of sweet herbs and ripe fruit. Drink 2012–2018 Alc 14.5%

Tenuta di Montecucco, Passonaia, Montecucco Rosso 2010 17.5 (91)n/a UK www.tenutadimontecucco.it

Bright medium ruby shade. Sweet, ripe cherry on the nose. The palate starts soft and round and develops long and firm with very good fresh fruit and a gentle sweet spiciness in the finish. Drink 2012–2016. Alc 13.5%

Campinuovi, Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva 2009 18 (93)n/a UK www.campinuovi.com

Mid-ruby, starting to grade at the edges. Fresh berry fruit on the nose with a gentle spiciness and underlay of herbs. Big, rich, natural palate with depth, freshness and grip on the finish. Concentrated, needs time. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14.5%

ColleMassari, Colle Massari, Montecucco Rosso Riserva 2009 18.5 (95)POa Decorum Vintners

Very big, deep ruby red. Rich and complex on the nose, with a fruit and scented floral character backed up by classy oak. Dense and concentrated on the palate, long and savoury on the finish. a massive wine. Drink 2014–2020 Alc 14.5%

Salustri, Santa Marta, Montecucco Sangiovese 2009 19 (96)n/a UK www.salustri.it

Fresh cherry and plum on the nose, with delicate notes of herbs. More ripe fruit on the palate with a beautiful tannic weave. Broad, long and deep with minerally grip and freshness on the finish. Just starting to drink now. Drink 2013–2020 Alc 14%

Le Calle, Campo Rombolo, Montecucco Rosso 2009 18.5 (95)n/a UK www.lecalle.it

Dark, saturated ruby shade. Fresh, spicy fruit on the nose with notes of plum, nutmeg and white pepper. Delicious, juicy palate with huge vitality, ripe, natural tannins and a long savoury finish. Drink 2012–2014 Alc 14%

Tenuta di Montecuccco, Rigomoro, Montecucco Sangiovese 2008 18.5 (95)n/a UK www.tenutadimontecucco.it

Dark ruby, still looking very young. Intense black cherry and plum jam on the nose, with a background of sweet herbs. Good texture and balance on the palate with ripe, earthy tannins, firm structure and long finish. Drink 2012–2020 Alc 14%

Ribusieri, Le Maciole, Montecucco Sangiovese 2010 17 (90)n/a UK www.agricolaribusieri.it

Very lively, young ruby shade. Sweet cherry and plum on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, juicy and fresh, with fine ripe tannins and a long tangy finish behind the fruit. Delicious, immediate drinking. Drink 2012–2016 Alc 14%

Vermentino

RossoSangiovese

For full details of UK stockists, see p116For full details of UK stockists, see p116

Montecucco must-try winesThree red vintages are currently available. The 2010 Rossos, made for early drinking and often without oak ageing, have an appetising, fresh fruit quality. The 2009s are powerful, with ripe fruit and tannins; they can be drunk now but really need more time. 2008 is intense and savoury, but leaner; the wines are ready but will also keep. Of older vintages, the warm 2007 was successful and the riservas are well worth seeking out.

Most white wines are from the great 2011 vintage and show good body, acidity and aroma. The most attractive are from the Vermentino grape, which on the dry, stony soils of Montecucco makes firmer wines with more structure than those from the Tuscan coast. Ongoing research into local sub-varieties of Vermentino particular to the Montecucco region promise an interesting future for the variety.

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Touring MontecuccoWhy fight the crowds? Get off the beaten track and discover

one of Tuscany’s most exciting, beautiful wine regions

Whether your main focus is to discover new wines or simply to explore a fascinating area of Tuscany off the tourist trail, Montecucco has bags to offer; vast stretches of unspoiled

countryside, romantic medieval castles, thermal springs, hearty regional cooking and an increasingly important programme of cultural events.

How to get thereIf you are touring Tuscany by car, escape the heavy goods traffic on the Siena-Grosseto SS223 highway at Paganico and follow the signs for Amiata to enter the heart of the Montecucco DOCG zone. If you plan to fly in, the nearest airport with direct flights from the UK is Pisa.

What to do and seeFor outdoor types. Monte Amiata offers the challenge of steep slopes for cyclists and trekking for all abilities. Stop-offs to include are the villages of Arcidosso, Castel del Piano, Roccalbegna S Fiora, Seggiano and Abbadia San Salvatore. www.amiataturismo.it

Wind down afterwards – or skip the physical activity and go straight to the relaxation – at the hot springs at the Terme di Petriolo, set in a woody nature reserve. www.termedipetriolo.it

For history and medieval atmosphere, hit the castles trail. You won’t need satnav – you can spot them on their hill tops at a distance of miles. The most spectacular are Castello di Collemassari at Poggi del Sasso (a leading winery), Castello di Potentino near Seggiano (a luxury relais), Castello di Porrona at Cinigiano, Castello Aldobrandesco at Arcidosso, Castello di Vicarello at Poggi del Sasso, and Castello di Triana at Roccalbegna.

For a bit of relaxed culture, you will need at least a half day to amble around the Giardino di Daniel Spoerri outdoor museum of sculpture and botanical park at Seggiano. Founded by the eclectic intellectual Daniel Spoerri who settled in Seggiano in the late 1980s, the collection now includes 90 works by 40 different artists. Info from: www.danielspoerri.org

The top cultural event of the year is the Amiata Piano Festival, which takes place in July, August and September at Poggi del Sasso. In its short history (2012 is the 8th edition) Amiata Piano has gained a reputation as one of Italy’s leading international classical music festivals. Advance booking is a must. www.amiatapianofestival.com

Where to stayFor wine fans the first choice will be a wine estate. Nearly a third of producers in the consorzio offer accommodation which ranges from B&B through holiday appartments to

luxury relais. I stayed in a very comfortable apartment in the beautifully landscaped grounds of Tenuta di Montecucco at Poggi del Sasso. For a complete list of producers, visit www.consorziomontecucco.it

Local specialitiesMontecucco offers traditional Tuscan country cooking with few touristy compromises and an amazing range of finest quality local products; olive oil, pecorino cheese and ricotta, honey, saffron (Monte Amiata is an important producer of the precious stigmas) and, if you can find it, amazing ham and bacon from the Cinta Senese pigs.

Favourite first courses are pici, thick pasta strings served with garlicy tomato sauce known as aglione, or wild game and homemade pasta tortelloni with ricotta and wild herbs. Grilled meat is a must – T-bone steak (Fiorentina), preferably from the Maremmana breed of cattle. Or in colder months, slow-cooked wild boar stew.

Eating outLa Taverna di Campagna In the south-west corner of the wine district, a family-run trattoria owned by producers Begnardi. Traditional menu with outstanding home-made pasta and own-grown salads and vegetables. Great value. www.ristorantelatavernadicampagna.comTenuta Impostino Restaurant with alfresco dining with amazing views in a beautiful farmhouse hotel setting. Wines from its own estate and a menu which adds a creative twist to traditional dishes. www.tenutaimpostino.itLa Scottiglia Home cooking and hearty portions in a friendly hotel and restaurant frequented by walkers on the lower slopes of Monte Amiata. The specialities are home-cured meats and, in season, local porcini mushrooms. www.lascottiglia.itIl Glicine Worth every twinkle of its Michelin star. Superbly prepared dishes without pretension from local produce. Excellent wine list. The restaurant is under the same ownership as the Pieve Vecchia relais and winery.www.cantinapievevecchia.com/locanda

Above: Why not explore the ancient hilltop towns by bicycle?

Top: Visit Il Giardino di Daniel Spoerri with its many sculptures

Above: Fresh pasta at La Scottiglia in Seggiano

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