g tuscany’s e grapevine · investor visa for italy 23 mary campbell 24 0 0 markets, venues,...
TRANSCRIPT
WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND
8-page fold-out!
WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND
8-page fold-out!
GRAPEVINEMAGAZINE
TUSCANY’S € 2.50
GRAPEVINES
econd s
eri
es, Y
ear
III
No. 4 - M
ay 2
018
The magazine for those who live in Tuscany
– or wish they did
The magazine for those who live in Tuscany
– or wish they did
with the sponsorship of
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 20182
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OP
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NSTRU
CTION
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L MAIN
TENAN
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OP
LUNATA - LUCCA tel. 0583.429333 - fax 0583.429158
[email protected] www.systems-pool.com
For food lovers and professionals alike, daily cooking classes: fresh pasta and sauces, fish and seafood, Tuscan specialties, risotto, pizza, focaccia, Hands-on classes in a relaxed, fun atmosphere. Participants cook the dishes themselves, then enjoy these with plenty of wine and home-made liqueurs. Highly recommended by Tripadvisor!Monday to Sunday 10am to 2.30pm. Afternoon classes upon request.
Info: www.cucina-italiana.com
Via di Sant’Alessio no. 3684, Lucca Tel 0583 329970 – 338 6718641
Open every day for lunch and dinner. Special menus prepared by Chef Paolo Monti for you. Special Dinner with Typical Tuscan trattoria with local specialties: zuppa di farro, tordelli demo in the cooking class lucchesi, wild boar pasta, porcini, asparagus, artichokes. Specialties from
kitchen, by reservation only. [email protected] the charcoal grill: Bistecca alla Fiorentina (T.Bone steak), lamb, mixed grill. Specialized in seafood dishes, with fresh fish every day!
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Contents
Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine by Grapevine Editions
Registered office: Via Guinigi, 22 - Lucca 55100. Visit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A.Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016.
Printed by Luminarprint srl - Calcinaia (PI).
Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed with a frame contain paid submissions.
© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around
The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.
3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
Editorial
Luminarprint S.r.l. Via Gramsci, 11 Fornacette di Calcinaia - Pisa
cell 327 6548857 - 393 [email protected]
www.luminarprint.it
o f f se t & d ig i t a l p r i n t i ng
Art/Music/Books/Beauty
Traditions & History
Excursions
Food & Drink
Practical
Remembering
Events of the Month
Bilingual Crossword
Properties for Sale
Where Grapevine Is Sold
Professionals
Cosmic Energies in Deredia’s Sculptures
Three Good Reasons to Visit Porcari 9
Flower Carpets for Corpus Christi 6
The May Festival in Lucignano 7
11-18
25
5
Gente di Corte (A Story from Porcari) 8
Le Mura in Motion 10
Cantuccini alle Mandorle 21
Make a Day of It before Flying from Pisa 4
Drink, Speak, and Share! 20
Investor Visa for Italy 23
Mary Campbell 24
0
0
Markets, Venues, What's On: Music, Art &
Exhibitions, Traditions, Sagras, Sports,
Children, Cinema, Conferences
19
22, 25, 26
27
Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani
EditorNorma Jean Bishop
ContributorsHelen AskhamAnna BenedettoNorma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseGianpiero Della NinaSara Della SantaJudith EdwardsDee MontalbanoPaolo MontiAlessia PeriSue Perry (photo)Francis PettittDonna PilletereJenny SchutzCarol TomlinsonPierpaolo Vannucci
Marketing & DistributionClaudia CasoliDiana GattiNicola Girolami
Adam WalkerSilvano Simi
Cover: Flowers bursting free from a window (Lucca Centro Storico) by Norma Jean Bishop
Dear Readers,
With our warmest wishes, – Norma and the Grapevine Team
Whether you live here or are just visit-ing, there couldn’t be a more enchanting season, offering blue skies and balmy weather that we hope will con-tinue into summer.
Strolling around Lucca, you can’t fail to notice the sculptures by Jiménez Deredia in the main squares (San Michele, Giglio, San Martino, San Giovanni, Anfiteatro) and near the San Pietro Gate. These will be on display until 28 September, along with some of Deredia’s smaller works at the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Exhibition Hall. See the article on page 5 to learn more about this important artist. At the same time the town is alive with music: Lucca Classica Festival, which we pre-sented last month, offers almost 80 events in the first week of May! Enjoy Lucca’s beauty, a feast for ears and eyes, including the majestic Walls presented to us by Dee Montalbano this month.
This is also an ideal time to travel, and so we have suggested several excursions beyond our local region. If you don’t want to go very far, you can enjoy the Corpus Domini celebrations in Camaiore or other nearby towns. After reading about the town of Porcari (written by Alessia Peri, a student from Lucca’s Liceo Vallisneri), you might want to visit, perhaps by bike or bus? Stroll and shop in this peaceful little town situated between Capannori and Montecarlo, with its surrounding natural landscapes. And see the What’s On Calendars for many more activities.
For those who regularly travel between Pisa and the UK, don’t miss Francis Pettitt’s economical suggestions about how to make the red-eye flying experience more bear-able. Also on the practical side, one of Lucca’s best fiscal experts, Pierpaolo Vannucci, explains the new Investor Visa for Italy. Maybe you or one of your friends or relatives will find a way to buy that dream villa in Tuscany or invest in an Italian business....
Finally, we have to sadly say goodbye to Mary Campbell of Barga, who throughout her life was engaged in helping women and children in difficult environments such as Syria. She will be missed.
2018May
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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 20184
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arly flights from Pisa to the UK are all very well if the airfare is truly cut-price, if you have a private means of getting to the aerodrome and, most important, if you can Ebear to shift yourself from the snug warmth of your bed at
an unearthly early hour. Otherwise, why not take a train to Pisa the day before your journey, check into a place near the airport, and enjoy more of the inexhaustible delights this lively city can offer?
My favourite check-in place is Pisa Hostel in Via Corridoni, just six minutes from the railway station and a brisk fifteen minutes walk to the Galileo 's departure lounge. If you are a couple (or two couples) you can have your own room; of religious representations, by artists which otherwise you can share a four-bunk-beds and included greats like the Pisano family and en-suite bathroom with others. even a Masaccio, all beautifully presented in
The place is truly fun. You can have a the old convent of San Matteo.great eat-as-much-as-you-like buffet for 8 When I told the entrance staff how much I euro, get the best scrambled eggs in Tuscany enjoyed my visit but was surprised that I was at 4 am before walking across to your flight, the only visitor, he replied, That's what they all have a jam session on the musical instruments say. But isn't it better like this? You can truly provided for guests, laze in the garden, meet enjoy the beauties around you without the and exchange notes with other world distraction of all those tourists like you get in travelers, and, most importantly, have the Uffizi. I had to agree! I walked along the friendly and helpful staff who will bend Lungo Arno, which I find quite as beautiful, if backwards to make your shortest stay a not more, than Florence's, especially when a pleasant one. And all this accommodation for transcendent sunset is colouring it.13 euro a night! I began to feel peckish and so headed for
Of course, if you still have a craving for my favourite Chinese restaurant near the your boutique hotel…. Palazzo Blu, the Great Wen. The menu is well
translated into Italian so that my favourite My afternoon walk around Pisa took me Xiaolonbao became ravioli al vapore. They
to the new fortress, whose otherwise were just as good as the ones we had tasted at delightful gardens were turned into a small Shanghai's Nanxiang Bun shop. The spaghetti lake thanks to the deluge of rain we've been with Beijing sauce were scrumptious with their having. I crossed the Arno, on the way passing the bombed-out spring roll additions, and surprisingly al dente. I knew it was a good wreck of a palazzo where in 1821 Shelley wrote his elegy Adonais place to come to eat by the preponderance of young Chinese cus-on hearing of the death of his contemporary, Keats. tomers and the very cordial service.
On the Arno's northern bank I visited my private museum, Then it was a walk back to the Pisa Hostel via the animated which includes a collection of superb Pisan paintings and statuary. pedestrian Corso Italia, to the dreaded 4 am wake-up, alleviated Or so it seemed my own private museum to me. For three hours by those charmingly served delicious scrambled eggs.there were no hoards of tourists to obstruct my views, no peering guards, no interference to the meditative pleasure of gazing on some – by Francis Pettittof the most exquisite women, the most animated scenes, the noblest Follow Francis’ blog at http://longoio3.wordpress.com
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5Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
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rom 28 April to 10 September, eleven monumental sculptures by Jiménez Deredia will grace the main squares of Lucca, in an event created thanks to the contributions of the Fondazione Banca del FMonte di Lucca, Fondazione Lucca Sviluppo, and the Town of
Lucca, curated by Massimiliano Simoni of Artitaly.The open-air locations are: Porta San Pietro, Piazzale Vittorio Emanuele
(in front of Antico Caffè delle Mura), Piazza del Giglio (in front of the theatre), Piazza San Michele (with four of Deredia’s works), Piazza San Giovanni, Piazza Anfiteatro, and Piazza San Martino.
At the same time, sixteen smaller works will be on display at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Piazza San Martino, 7 (free admission) between the hours of 3.30 pm and 7.30 pm from Tuesdays to Sundays.
Deredia in Lucca is the continuation of an exhibition that has been shown in many cities: Firenze, Rome, Valencia, Trapani, Mexico City, and Miami. The circular and oval forms in the works of this artist will accompany us on a fluid and harmonious re-visitation of our historic town. Through the transformation of material, which according to Deredia makes us “aware that niche created by Michelangelo Buonarroti at Saint we are stardust in transmutation”, we experience the theme of cosmic Peter's Basilica. In 2006, he was named Academic participation, as expressed by his “Genesis” series. Correspondent of the Class of Sculpture at the
The artist was born in Costa Rica in 1954. At age 22 he moved to Italy, Florentine Accademia delle Arti del Disegno, an where he began working in marble and bronze. After attending the Accademia honor he shares with Michelangelo, Tiziano, di Belle Arti in Carrara, he studied architecture in Florence. During this period Tintoretto, Palladio and Galileo Galilei. In 2009, his he gained deeper understanding of pre-Colombian spherical stone sculptures, works were displayed in the main squares of Rome, which became a constant source of inspiration. In his “Genesis” works he and around the Colosseum. On this occasion, the explores material changes in temporal-spatial existence. This Trasmutational Roman Forum welcomed contemporary art for the Symbolism forms the basis of his artistic ideology. first time in its history.
For the 2000 Jubilee in Rome, Deredia was commissioned to create a www.deredia.commarble statue of San Marcellino Champagnat, which was then placed inside a www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it
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to Maja (and to Bona). The word maiale (pig) is connected with he oak-worship of the Druids among the Celts of the name of the goddess: sus majalis was in fact the animal Northern Europe is familiar to everyone, but tree-sacrificed to her. So, originally, the adjective majale had a worship was as common in Italy as in other countries in TT beautiful significance, only when it became a noun did it acquire a Europe. There are abundant proofs of this. negative connotation (when rudely addressed to people). Similar Archaeological excavations have shown that long before the rise celebrations, and the cult of the trees, were widespread in central and presumably the foundation of Rome, a wide part of Italy was Italy. They were maintained throughout the pagan period and covered with elm, chestnut and oak woods. The Roman historian continued later in medieval times, even though in a different form.Titus Livy (first century BC) compared the Ciminian forest, at the
Nowadays, the rebirth of Nature in spring is welcomed in centre-north of the Italian peninsula, to the thick woods of various ways. The Maggiolata Lucignanese is a festival Germany. celebrated in the medieval town of Lucignano, in the Arezzo Considering the enormous importance that the wood had in province, reminiscent of the ancient spring celebrations. The daily life, it is natural to think that religious practices and beliefs festival, which has existed for more than eighty years, this year connected to tree-worship should be found in ancient Rome. starts on 17 May and ends on 27 May. On Sunday 20, Tuesday 22 James Frazer in The Golden Bough tells how in the busy centre of (in the evening) and Sunday 27, a parade of folk groups in Rome, the Forum, the sacred fig-tree of Romulus was worshipped traditional dresses, with popular music bands, will cross the town. and the withering of its trunk caused consternation among the Four floats, each representing one of the four contrade of the people. According to tradition, the tree grew on the spot where a town, are decorated with thousands of colourful flowers. Good she-wolf had suckled Romulus and Remus. And on Capitoline local cuisine is available every day during the entire festival. On Hill, where the temple of Zeus was located, there was an oak tree the second Sunday, a jury will chose the best float and present it beside which Romelus placed rich spoils of war. But one of the with the Grifo d'oro (Golden griffon). Soon after, all those who most widely worshipped holy trees in Rome was a cornel-tree on contributed to the creation of the floats will start the Battaglia dei the slope of Palatine Hill. According to the Greek biographer and Fiori (battle of the flowers), until the floats are completely bare of essayist Plutarch (46 AD-120 AD), when people saw that it was flowers. drooping they would start to cry out and people would run from all
– by Chiara Calabresethe sides of the city with buckets of water. More widely speaking, various forms of agrarian
rites could be found in several areas of the Italian peninsula, with or without a May-tree as protagonist.
Admission: Sundays 8 euros, Francesco Toschi in Le origini del teatro italiano (the Tuesdays 5 eurosorigins of Italian theatre) says that almost certainly the
(children under 6 free; people that inhabited Italy welcomed the arrival of group & multiple-day tickets
spring around the first of May. Toschi explains that in available).
May the Romans celebrated Maja or Majesta, one of the oldest divinities in Lazio. They believed that the For information: month of May (Latin Maius) was named after Maja. www.maggiolatalucignanese.it Contemporary etymologists, though, believe that the or tel. 334 1958505two words originated separately from the same root mag (big) which is connected to the idea of growth. The From Lucca to Lucignano by
car is about 1 ½ hours, goddess represented the fertility of the earth in May, by train & bus 4-5 hours. and for this reason she was identified with the goddess
Bona, the symbol of fertility. In order that the earth might be fertile, the Romans sacrificed a pregnant sow
From Tree-Worship to the May Festival in Lucignano
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 20186
carperia is located in the Mugello, the region just north of Florence. This area is heavily linked to the Medici family who dominated Florence for many years. The main Palazzo in SSScarperia bears witness to the power of the Medici, with shields of
the families loyal to them displayed on its facade. One of the network of 'most beautiful villages in Italy', Scarperia is
worth visiting at any time of year but is particularly lovely during the Infiorita to celebrate Corpus Christi, which in 2018 takes place on Sunday 27 May. At this time, the town's historic centre is decorated with designs formed from thousands of petals and seeds.
If you can, come on the Saturday before the Infiorita so that you can see the preparations for the day. Groups of locals gather to strip the petals from thousands of carnations, readying them to use like mosaic pebbles to provide colour to the designs which will fill the streets. The centre is closed to traffic and the designs are drawn on the
central street and piazzas. They follow a theme, which last year was the signs of the zodiac and this year is comics (fumetti).
On Sunday morning, groups of locals rise early to complete the designs. They use soil to outline the designs, and coloured petals and seeds to fill in the outline. Some designs are even three dimensional. During the day there are many visitors who come to view the beautiful designs and who stay to enjoy a meal in the restaurants lining the main street.
You can reach Scarperia by car in little over an hour, or like us take a bus from Florence (from the bus station next to Santa Maria Novella train station). There are lovely views from the village over the Tuscan countryside.
– by Carol Tomlinson
Flower Carpets for Corpus Christi
Ristorante
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Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday
www.ristoranteammodonostro.it - [email protected]
7Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
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nna was 16 years old in 1946. Rinaldo, who always thought of her as a child, suddenly noticed her that spring day, while she was drawing water from the AAwell. She had become a woman, and was very pretty,
made as God commanded. From that moment on, she entered his heart like a thorn. He had never thought of her as a potential life companion, but more like a relative: a cousin.
They had grown up together in the courtyard. They drank from the water of the same well. In the houses near the well, they played with the smell of hay in their noses.
And then, they searched for nests, and looked for acorns for a The presence of the woman at the well continued to represent
piglet that her father had bought, which died young, a threat to everyone, and so everyone tried to take her away from
unexpectedly, one night…. there, with good and bad manners, in her best interest, mind you!
He closed his eyes and saw the little pig as if it were in front of Because her precarious mental condition made it even more
him. Yet ten years had passed since that time. dangerous for her to sit on the edge of the well. But she wouldn't
Rinaldo and Anna baptized the piglet as they had seen the listen to reason. She waited, sitting there until evening: until her
priest do. They called him Paco, finally reaching agreement after husband returned. Then her eyes, absent for hours, focused on the
a long discussion. Then they raised him tenderly, like a little man. He detached the sweating beast from its cart, led the donkey
brother. Mornings, right after awakening, they ran to him, and into its stall, prepared its bed and gave it water.
little Anna said that Paco greeted her by laughing, and there was Here's Genio, she repeated.
no way to contradict her. Often she questioned Paco and waited Only this. The man seemed not to see her. He slowly walked to
patiently for the answers. Until one day, the little girl asked her the door of the house, which had a small copper-colored cross
father: Why is Paco mine? She wanted to know what kind of nailed to it at eye's level, and he opened the door. She heard him
relative he was to her. moving around inside lighting the fire and preparing something to
Her father understood then that it would be difficult to kill the eat. Then he came out with the bucket. He drew some water from
little pig, once it fattened, without the child knowing -- and then to the well, and finally Gilda came down and accompanied him once
make her believe that the salami, prosciutto, bacon and meat more into the house, where together they shared a hopeless silence.
conserved in the vat were not the remains of poor Paco. When they went into the bedroom, Gilda let herself fall onto the bed
Despite the attentions and loving and assiduous care of the like a rag. In the dark, Genio, born Eugenio and re-baptized Il Nero,
two children, Paco didn't grow; in fact within two months, he the Black, remembered Gilda in bloom, proud and dignified, and he
began to fade away. Nonzia, Germano's wife, noticed this first, didn't understand how life and time could have been so devastating.
and he had to agree with her. The attentions were increased, but Upon awakening, Nero was sorry that the night had been so short.
Paco continued to worsen, especially at night. He was crying more often in his pen, under the hayloft, in front of the courtyard. Among all the things that Rinaldo wanted to say to Anna, that
Then one night there was silence. The next morning they evening at the well, only this came out:
found Paco, not moving, with a last feeble smile on his face, You remember that piglet we had?
costing him who knows how much effort: for Anna! Rinaldo Yes, his name was Paco, she replied, without adding anything
knew that he had begun to care for the little girl beginning at that else.
moment. Are you coming back tomorrow evening?
At the children's request, Nonzia and Germano performed the Where?
honors for Paco, as if he were a Christian. They laid him in a little Here, to the well…
box and went to bury him nearby, alongside the Ralla stream, He realized that he had become her subject, like someone
while Anna and Rinaldo followed the procession with daisies in feels towards people who are more important, or more educated,
their hands, ready to drop them onto that body before the earth or richer. They seem unreachable. What nonsense! This was
swallowed him up forever. Anna: that little girl of the courtyard who had only attended
Anna at that time had hair the color of mahogany. elementary school, the daughter of Germano and Nonzia.He didn't like thinking about this. He turned towards the door
It was almost evening and Rinaldo had placed the history of his home, and left her there in the middle of the courtyard,
book on the chair, to exchange some words with Anna. Seeing without even giving her a Ciao.
Rinaldo approaching, she paused, fiddling with the bucket. Gilda remained seated on the edge of the well waiting for
Seated on the edge of the well was Gilda. The old lady, Nero, and before Anna went away, said once more: I'm a splinter
already lost, tired and smelly, spent her days there, turning a little of wood. Now I'm going to throw myself in.
stick around in her wrinkled hands. She kept repeating: I'm a
splinter of wood. Now I'm going to throw myself in. And one day – translation by Grapevine
she really did throw herself in and there was a great to-do by everyone in order to save her. They managed to pull her up to a This is Chapter 4 of Gente di corte, written by Giampiero Della
certain point and then once again she fell in. Finally it was up to Nina (2018, Albatross), who was born in Porcari in 1942.
Germano to go down into the well, tie a strong rope around her The book is based on his memories of the 1940s.
waist and finally pull her to safety. For a month no one took any more water from the well, then the matter was forgotten. Photo: property of the author.
Gente di CorteAnna and Rinaldo
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 20188 9Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
eople s o m e -times make P fun of me when I
proudly say that I live in Porcari. Not many people know this village, except for
our important paper industry. Porcari is one of many villages in the province of Lucca, but it
distinguishes itself for some characteristics that no other village has.
Our peculiar Torretta is surely our first reason to be proud. People might think it's only a small hill with a tiny white house on top, but for a
Porcarese the Torretta is the symbol of the village. Longobards put this hill to good use as a good place from which they could see enemies coming from other villages.
Generations of Porcaresi used to meet their friends or spend relaxing hours there. Lots of village events take place upon our hill. The most important is the Porcari Corre, an amateur race that takes
place in the middle of May and whose path includes the Torretta.The main square is also a nice place to visit. It's not a huge square, but it is the home of the Commune (Town
Hall). This building dominates the square and is surrounded by meadows and a children's playground with swings and slides. Alongside the Commune is the Palazzo Lazzareschi, also named Palazzo di vetro because it is made of glass. Inside this glass building lots of important exhibitions and meetings take place.
The square is the main spot for teenagers, but also for children. In February, the Carnovale Porcarese (Porcari carnival) takes place there and the square becomes a magic place. The floats arrive and kids dressed as animals, princesses and pirates run all around the square. There's a stage with an entertainer who performs typical carnival songs. Our carnival is well-known all over the Lucca province.
Another characteristic element of the Porcari landscape is the Padule. This part of the village takes its name from the swamp (in Italian palude), which covered this area until the beginning of the 20th century. Today, the Padule is characterised by paths surrounded by lots of fields. People go there to ride their bicycles, usually in autumn or spring, because the landscape offers a special view with lots of colours that make you feel at peace. It is an experience that you should not miss! Here the Padulata takes place, an amateur bicycle ride
usually planned for the first of May, for the international workers' day. Children and adults leave Porcari's main square with their bicycles, usually in the afternoon, and riding all together they arrive at the Padule, where they find a stand with food waiting for them. Children mainly like this event because on this day Padule is normally full of mud due to the season's rain.
Come and visit Porcari, to gain your personal impressions of my special village.
– by Alessia PeriLiceo A. Vallisneri, Lucca
Three Good Reasons to Visit Porcari
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Le Mura in Motionphoto by Sue Perry
him. Another, with curly gray hair, pads the gravel behind my emerge from the canyon streets to the broad passeggiata of Le bench as he jogs at a snail's pace, arms akimbo.Mura, the iconic Walls of Lucca, and instantly I am part of a
pulsing panorama of the city. Couples and families pedal by Lucca is Le Mura, and Le Mura, the Walls, are life.IIon carts or bicycles; runners blur past; middle aged and
elderly couples stroll arm and arm; a mother races after her three-
year-old; three women set a lively pace and still keep talking,
talking, talking. The dogs are everywhere. Labradors, Goldens, Dee Montalbano recently moved from Boulder, Colorado, to Weimaraners, Poodles, Dachshunds, Great Pyrenees, and everything Eugene, Oregon. Her book, Crossing Seventy, Moments of in between have claimed Le Mura as their own back yard. Outrageous Aging, is available on Amazon.
And then there are the old men.
Four old men walking side by side, gesturing.
Not a moment of silence between them, an ease and a
sense of routine suggest an exchange between long-
term friends. With no break in the conversation, they
head to a nearby bench where they sit together in the
sun, enjoying the warmth of its rays, and the warmth
of their history together.
Silent, but in rhythm, each leaning slightly
forward, a twelve-year-old girl and her very fit
grandfather ride side by side on their bikes along the
wide pathway on top of the Walls. Several feet
behind, a slightly rotund grandfather pushes a baby
buggy, a plump one-year-old tucked in blankets
inside, eyes closed, sleeping peacefully.
Yet another white-haired grandfather pushes a
baby buggy while two young women, one on either
side, walk next to him. The grouping, pace, and
direction have the feeling of ritual. Do they do this
every day? Do they all live next to each other? Do they
all live next to the Walls?
And finally, there are the old men alone. One
faces down as he walks slowly, hands clasped behind
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 201810
photo by Dee Montalbano
Markets
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
General markets Books and prints Arts & Craft
Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/Sunday
Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsLucca, Piazza Don Baroni (fairground) Wed & Sat a.m.Antiques Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthB. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Pieve Fosciana last SundayS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday
Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday Plants and flowersForte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Pietrasanta 1st Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m.Barga 2nd Sunday
Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Markets in Florence (the biggest)Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday
Tonfano Sat a.m. Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed SundaysBientina 4th Sat/SundayCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily
WHAT’S ONWHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDIN & AROUNDGRAPEVINE
May 2018 fold-
out events calendar
Villa Anna Maria
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Porcari
Capannori
Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito
Viareggio32km
Massa Carrara
Forte dei Marmi
Pietrasanta
Sant’Anna di Stazzema
Camaiore
Corsanico (Massarosa)
Tonfano
Torre del Lago
San Rossore Park
PISA26km
Vorno
Gattaiola
San Giuliano Terme
Abetone
Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)
Benabbio
Villa Basilica
Pieve a Elici
Tofori
Ponte aMoriano
Camigliano
Barga
Castelnuovo Garfagnana
Bagni di Lucca26km
Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 050 94111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it
1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone. 20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it, 0584 46477 www.ticketone.it 21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.
2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches. 22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA). www.puccinielasualucca.com Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.
3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo 24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.itCustode, Via degli Angeli Custodi. Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99. www.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.it
4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML, 25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo SpiritoLucca In Musica. 0583 469960, a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgwww.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,
5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, b. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.orgclosed Mondays and Sundays, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’www.teatrodelgiglo.com 26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.
5b. Teatro San Girolamo, Museum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.www.teatrodelgiglio.com 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it
6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio Gemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960, 7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza Del 28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it
Suffragio, www.boccherini.it Compitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival. 8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco 29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it 9. San Michele Church, Pza San Michele 30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi10. San Paolino Church, Via San Paolino Roma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin 11. San Romano Auditorium [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757, 12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc. 14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to
museum. [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900, 15. Botanical Garden concerts, 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it
www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music 16. San Martino (Duomo) 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 4 17. Amphitheatre Jazz, [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it
www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini article in June Grapevine. 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.it
18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,
33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it
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Music & Theatre Venues
Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa
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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPE
Florence 90km
Montecarlo 20km
Montecatini Terme
Altopascio
Prato
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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDEVINE Magazine
Lucca: Around Lucca: to midnight.
A. San Francesco Church Complex. L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.
AA. ex Casa del Boia. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also
B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Roma. Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584
della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.com M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. 757443.
C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo M3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center & SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival
(www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.
photography. M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52.Pisa:D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it Martino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 O. Ponte a MorianoT3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. 450278. Barga:
Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583 P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18. T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi 467205. P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle
Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. 490530, [email protected], P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo
www.museocattedrale.lucca.it dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music. Prato:G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.U. Palazzo Pretorio. H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. P4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.
www.palazzopretorio.prato.itH2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 Versilia:V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara.
55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza www.museodeltessuto.it
I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Duomo. 0584 795268.V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.
I2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43.
Florence:J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Corso Garibaldi 116. W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org
New exhibition space. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60. J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it www.unannodarte.it
Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Q5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.it10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Q6. Viareggio. Villa Argentina, Via Fratti 44 (ang. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2.
K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. Via Vespucci). Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.itKK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. Forte dei Marmi: Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it
280292, www.villabertelli.it Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10. R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm www.guccimuseo.com
Tonfano
Florence 90km
Prato
Capannori
San Gennaro
Viareggio32km
Massa Carrara
Forte dei Marmi
Pietrasanta
Seravezza
Camaiore
Abetone
Barga
Ponte a Moriano
Castelnuovo Garfagnana
Bagni di Lucca26km
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Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z
Montecarlo 20km
Porcari14km
Tassignano
Torre del Lago
Vecchiano
PISA 26km Vorno
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San Giuliano Terme
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
Enfocus Software - Customer Support
24,
6pm to 1am, Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 35. WOM Festival of Indie-Italian music, with art displays & music collectibles in the park. Tel. 340 5342695, www.womfest.it
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6pm to 1am, Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 35. WOM Festival of Indie-Italian music, with art displays & music collectibles in the park. Tel. 340 5342695, www.womfest.it
2611am, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Open Day. Boccherini Orchestra in concert with ballerinas from the European Dance Association. Beethoven Concerto n. 4 for piano & orchestra.6pm, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Orchestra with ballerinas from the European Dance Association. Ekaterine Gagnidze (piano), Mozart & Beethoven.9pm, Montecatini Terme, Teatro Verdi. Homage to Ennio Morricone by Ensemble Le Muse. teatroverdimontecatini.it
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3*5pm, Lucca Teatro del Giglio. Inaugural concert by Silvia Chiesa (cello) & Maurizio Baglini (piano).*9pm, Lucca Boccherini Auditorium. Concert by the Boccherini orchestra & chorus. Beethoven & Dvorak.
7.45pm, Lucca Cinema Centrale Simulcast: Manon.
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4*9.45am & 11am, Teatro del Giglio. Puccini's Gianni Schicchi with Stac puppets.*4pm, Palazzo Ducale Orchestra Rehearsal with Beatrice Venezi, followed at 5.30pm by Enrio Bronzi & the Mozarteum cellos.*9pm, Teatro del Giglio, Trois langues imaginaires. by Nicola Campogrande, concert for public & orchestra.*11pm, Boccherini Auditorium, Cellist Enrico Bronzi performing Bach & Hindemith in the dark.
5*9.45am, Palazzo Ducale Sala Adamello. Concert (violin, viola, cello, double bass, piano).*10.30am, San Martino Cathedral. Music dedicated to Ilaria del Carro.*10.30am, Palazzo Ducale Sala Tobino. Choreographic game on gravitational waves.*10.30am, Palazzo Pfanner, Marco Rizzi & Laura Bortolotto (violins), music by E. Ysaÿe.
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Friday Thu
To locate the venues, see the map and the list above.
The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.
However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information
before setting off.
18 19
127.30pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Performance and Exhibition Space (SPE). Omaggio al '68. Concert on the death of the anarchist Serantini. Music by Francesco Filidei, text by Stefano Busellato, percussions Ars Ludi, voices Ready-Made Ensemble, direction Tonino Battista.The concert is supported by SIAE for the project “SIAE - Classici di Oggi”.Lucca, Auditorium Suffragio, Istituto Boccherini. Giovanni Passalia, piano. Beethoven, Debussy, Malipiero, Ravel.
Puccinielasualucca for its summer season (31 March to 31 October)offers daily concerts at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm.
Tickets are sold at the door, or call 340 8106042.www.puccinielasualucca.com - [email protected]
Program: Mondays Puccini & Mozart, Tuesdays Puccini’s Women, Wednesdays Italian Opera Recital, Thursdays Puccini & Verdi, Fridays Puccini Opera Recital, Saturdays A Night at the Opera,
Sundays Puccini & the Neapolitan Song Tradition
EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com
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2018
31Lucca International Choir Festival in the town squares & Teatro del Giglio. Tel. 0583 465320. www.centromusicajam.it9pm, Lucca International Choir Festival, Teatro del Giglio.
Coming Up/Ongoing the Arché Orchestra & F. Datteri. Followed by concerts on 10, 17, 24 June. oltrelamusica.it
Lucca Animando (Il Settecento Musicale a Lucca) Lucca Summer Festival (concerts scheduled so far):
Concerts: 1 June (Under the walls of Lucca) 23 June Queens of the Stone Age. 7 July Johnny
Gasparini & Porpora, 28 July (at the Casinò Bagni di Depp with Hollywood Vampires, Alice Cooper & Joe
Lucca), 7 October. www.animandolucca.itPerry (Aerosmith). 8 July Ringo Starr & the All-Starr
Lucca Cinema Centrale Simulcast 12 June Swan Band. 11 July Roger Waters. 12 July Gorillaz. 17 July
Lake.Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds. 18 July Lenny Kravitz.
6 June 10.30am, Borgo Buggiano (Pistoia). Tastings 22 July Gianni Morandi. 23 July Nic Cester. 25 July
at Villa Sermolli followed by concert at Palazzo King Crimson.
Pretorio (11.30am). Beethoven Matinée, Soloists of
Saturday
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Omaggio al '68
6*10.30am, Church of San Paolino, Mass with Polifonica Lucchese. Puccini’s Requiem Sc76 in memory of Laura Ziegler.*9pm, Teatro del Giglio. Ballerina Eleonora Abbagnato, a tribute to Angelin Preljocaj / Roland Petit.10.30am, Borgo Buggiano (Pistoia). Tastings at Villa Sermolli followed by concert at Palazzo Pretorio (11.30am). Romantico in duo, Magni & Mazzoni. oltrelamusica.it5.30pm, Ponte a Serraglio (Bagni di Lucca). S. Crocifisso Parish Church. Choral Association Pier Alessandro Guglielmi, M° Paolo Biancalana, Rossini, Petite Messe Solonnelle. Fond. Culturale Montaigne, free entrance, tel. 335 5821084.
1310.30am, Borgo Buggiano (Pistoia). Tastings at Villa Sermolli followed by concert at Palazzo Pretorio 11.30am, by An Die Musik, Trio Salotti. oltrelamusica.it5pm, Camaiore. Teatro dell’Olivo. Lorenzo Manfredi, piano. Beethoven, Franck, Ravel, Chopin.6pm, Lucca, Piazza San Martino. Music in the Cathedral International Choral & Organ Festival. Stefania Mattadelli (organist) plays Handel, Bach, Mendelssohn. www.musicaincattedralelucca.com
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219pm, Lucca, San Romano Auditorium. University of California, Berkeley wind ensemble. Music by Holst, Lauridsen, Bernstein, Della Cese, Gorb, etc. Free.
236pm, Lucca, Piazza San Martino. Music in the Cathedral International Choral & Organ Festival.Hans-Andrè Stamm (organist) plays Handel, Bach, Stamm. www.musicaincattedralelucca.com
9 9pm, Lucca, Suffragio
Auditorium, Istituto Boccherini. Brouwer Marathon VI. Homenajes (guitar).
2*6pm, Boccherini Institute Library. A tour of the library, to view manuscripts by Boccherini, Catalani, Puccini.
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9pm, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium, Istituto Boccherini. Campanas con fantasia. Alberto Meserca, guitar.
89pm, Lucca, Suffragio Auditorium, Istituto Boccherini. Brouwer Marathon V. Violin, viola, cello. 9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Orchestra directed by Federico Maria Sardelli, dedicated to Viennese classicism from Mozart to Beethoven to Haydn.
1*4pm, Celle dei Puccini Village Museum visit & concert. Bach flute concert by Agnese Manfredini. Free shuttle bus from Lucca Palazzo dello Sport at 3pm. Reserve with [email protected]
2010.30am, Borgo Buggiano (Pistoia). Tastings at Villa Sermolli followed by concert at Palazzo Pretorio (11.30am). La Folia Spagnola, Duo Severi & Sierra. oltrelamusica.it
5.30pm, Viareggio, Museo del Marineria. Letizia Cappellini, soprano. Arianna Tarantino, piano. Antonino D’Alessio, flute. Héctor Cruz, guitar.
2710.30am, Borgo Buggiano (Pistoia). Tastings at Villa Sermolli followed by concert at Palazzo Pretorio (11.30am). From Mozart to Bizet, Solo Andata, Duo Turri & Romani oltrelamusica.it 5.30pm, Viareggio, Villa Borbone. Concert by Betsabea Faccini, piano. Rachmaninov, Ravel, Chopin.5pm, Lucca, San Francesco Church, Piazza San Francesco. Homage to Luigi Boccherini. Quartetto Dulce in Corde. www.luigiboccherini.it9pm, Lucca, Church of Santa Caterina, Via del Crocifisso. Il Quartetto d’archi da Lucca a Vienna. Music by Boccherini, Beethoven, Mozart. www.luigiboccherini.it
Wed Mon Tues Sunday
[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND
Music & TheatreMay 2018
28 29 Lucca International Choir Festival in the town squares & Teatro del Giglio. Tel. 0583 465320. www.centromusicajam.it
30Lucca International Choir Festival in the town squares & Teatro del Giglio. Tel. 0583 465320. www.centromusicajam.it
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All of the starred (*) events are part of the Lucca Classica Festival, 29 April to 6 May, with symphonic concerts, chamber music, listening guides, children’s concerts, etc. With over 80 events in one week, not all of these can be listed here. See article in last month's Grapevine, and consult the website, www.luccaclassica.it or on Facebook: LuccaClassicaMusicFestival.
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Eleonora Abbagnato
Don’t miss the “last days” of exhibits, shown in red on the calendar below.
To locate the venues, see the maps & list on the back of this calendar.
Picciorana (Lucca),
Viareggio,
Viareggio,
Vivai Marino Favilla, Via di Picciorana 262. “Emotional Space” Borgo a Buggiano. Palazzo Pretorio. Photography of the Val inaugurated on 24 March. Exhibition of sculpture by Choi Yook Sook, glassworks d’Orcia by Cristian Cacciatore. Until 2 June. www.cristiancacciatore.itby Bruno Pedrosa & Simone Crestani & photography by Riccardo Bagnoli. Events (concerts, yoga, etc.) will be planned for Friday afternoons. See the article in the April Grapevine. www.greenheartfavilla.it
GAMC Museum: Impressions & words on paper. From Man Ray to Dorazio. From the Pieraccini Donation. 19th century graphic works showing the interconnections between word & image, literature & figurative art. Including: Arp, Braque, Jean Cocteau, Capogrossi, Sonia Delaunay, Dorazio, Max Ernst, Giacometti, Man Ray, Mirò, Picasso, Emilio Vedova. Open daily except Mondays 3.30 to 7pm.
Villa Argentina. Documentary films for art lovers. May & June. Tel. 0584 1647600.
Susanna Orlando Gallery, Via Garibaldi 30. Works by Giuseppe Chiari, Ben Vautier, Lorenzo Lazzeri, Pino Deodato, & Giacomo Piussi. Until 27 June. The gallery also repairs artworks. Mondays to Sundays 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Tel. 0584 7021, [email protected], www.galleriasusannaorlando.it
Jesolo Lido (VE),
Feltri (Bolzano),
Spazio Aquilia 123. Gods, pharoahs, humans. Until 15 September. www.mostraegitto.com
Castello Vescovile. New Diocesan Museum of Feltri & Belluno opening 12 May. A complete recovery of the ancient Bishops Palace at the summit of the Via del Paradise, the western quadrant of the so-called “Vertical City” & its millenarian architecture. 27 rooms of art treasures, i nc lud ing f rescoes by Mantegna & others.
Pietrasanta,
Buggiano Castello,
WORTH THE TRIP ...
EVINE Magazine WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND www.luccagrapevine.com
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18OPENING: Lucca Contemporary Art Fair, at Polo Fiere, Via della Chiesa XXXII, Trav. I, 237. Sorbano, Lucca. Shuttle bus from train station & Porta San Pietro. Until 20 May.
10GUIDED VISIT: Piazza Santa Maria Corteorlandini, Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church. 4pm to 5.30pm. Reserve in advance at the Cathedral Museum.
5Sillico (Pieve Fosciana), OPENING: Palazzo
Carli. Ensemble (paintings). Until 24 June.
12Lucca,
Fabrizio Barsotti Studio in Chiasso Barletti. Tuesdays to Sundays 6pm to midnight.
LAST DAY:
26
Saturday Thu
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Friday
Exhibitions,
M
ay 2018
Coming Up/Ongoing
OPENING: Firenze, San Lorenzo Basilica, 2 to 24 June. Presences in Contemporary Art : Emerging artists of the 21st century & masters of the 20th century. Sarah Danays of LA/Granaiola (Stigmata, shown here) in the company of Chagall, Dalì, Aceves ... Exhibit curated by Vincenzo Noble of NAG Art Gallery, Pietrasanta.
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ONGOING EXHIBITIONS: Lucca,
Lucca,
Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. Mario Sironi & the Illustrations for Il Popolo d’Italia 1921-
Villa Guinigi Museum, Via della Quarquonia. This 1940. Political cartoons from 1921 to 1927. museum houses treasures that trace the history of Lucca.In Until 3 June 2018.January the Cristo Eucaristico, a polychrome terracotta by Matteo Civitali (1436-1501), was returned to Lucca by the Italian police and placed in the museum more than 70 years after it was stolen by the Germans from Santa Maria della Rosa Church on 7 or 8 February, 1944. The museum is open Tuesdays to Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of
Contemporary Art. Silvio Natali, Essenza del Quotidiano. 1 May to 3 J u n e . L u . C . C . A . L o u n g e & Underground. Free entrance. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm.Info: 0583 492180, www.luccamuseum.com
Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca. Cosmic Energy in the Sculptures of Jimenez Deredia. Until 10 September. In town squares & at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza S. Martino 7. See article on page 5. www.fondazionebmleventi.it
Lucca,
[email protected] Tuscany’s GRAPEWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND
21 22 23
13LAST DAY: Lucca, Oratory of San Giuseppe, Piazza Antelminelli. Painter Aurora Manfredi, Genesi (personal show). Sundays to Fridays 3pm to 6pm, Saturdays 10am to 12pm, 3pm to 6pm.
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1LAST DAY:
TODAY:
Firenze, Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazzetta di Santo Stefano 1. Monet Experience & the Impres-sionists. Virtual exhibit, www.monetexperience.it
Palazzo Mansi (photo right) is open from 8.30am to 1.30pm (last entrance 1pm).
2
20
27LAST DAY:
LAST DAY:
Porcari,
Seravezza,
Fondazione Lazzareschi, Piazza Felice Orsi. Il Sogno Americano, photography by Gusmano Cesaretti. Curated by Riccarda Bernacchi & Lucia Morelli. See article in April Grapevine.
Palazzo Medici (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), 15th edition of Seravezza Photography, with exhibitions, workshops & meetings. Artistic director Ivo Balderi. Main exhibition: freelance photographer Uliano Lucas, La vita e nient’altro (Life & nothing else).
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Exhibitions, May 2018
Sunday
Dere
dia
Mario S
ironi
30 April OPENING: Viareggio, Villa Argentina, Via A. Frattiang. Via A. Vespucci 44. Versilia, ricordi di un’estate al mare (memories of a summer at the sea). Images from the Alinari, Lucca Province & Chini Archives, curated by Enrico Stefanelli. Tues. to Sun. 10am to 1pm, 3pm to 6.30pm. Until 22 July. Tel. 0584 1647600, FB Villa Argentina Viareggio.
LAST DAY: Pisa, Palazzo Blu.Tribute to M. L. King, Jr. curated by Grapevine.
19Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
Cruciword by Helen Askham
Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.
Maggio Musicale
April solution
ACROSS DOWN1 The boy with the Night Visitors (5) 1 Absurd (plural) (7)4 Turiddu loved her (4) 2 The first Greek letter (4)
3 The opera with a furtive tear 8 Riposante (7)(1,6,1,5)9 Avenue (5)
4 Puccini’s first opera (2,5)10 The Te Kanawa of grand opera; 5 Minimo (5)la Te Kanawa dell’opera lirica (4)6 Satie’s name; il nome di Satie 11 Isolato (8)
(4)12 Wagner’s Walter aspired to be one; 7 Primo violino (6)il Walter di Wagner ambiva a 12 Liquefatto, fuso (6)essere questo (7,6)13 Puccini’s cloak (7)15 Battello di salvataggio (8)14 Puccini’s first name (7)17 La voce più profonda (5)16 Combattere (5)20 Puccini’s second opera (5)18 Presto (4)21 Hard-working (7)19 The pearl of football; la perla 22 A main section of an opera (4)
del calcio (4)23 Hermitage (5)
1 2 3 4 5
6 7
8 9
10 11
12 13 14
15 16 17 18
19
20 21
22 23
S P R I N G S H I R T SW L L A N PE C I P O L L I N A RE C H O B A I N R IT O P A L M E S NS A C R A L E A R W I G
O S G ES A L I T A A L A R I CP A O N I C E I OR I T E A O I N T OI E A S T E R E G G IN S R N O NG R O T T A S P R I N G
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS
CINEMA
CHILDREN
COMING UP
CONFERENCES
MEET-UP GROUPS
VILLAGE AND TOWN FAIRS
Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. To participate contact Paolo at 380 4358318 or email [email protected] ITALY
A group for speaking ITALIAN ONLY is being put together Labor Day, 1 May.starting on 10 May at 4.30pm, at Bistro Piqui, Via Sant’Andrea, opposite the Guinigi Tower. We are looking for people to join us Lucca and Surroundingswho would like to practice or improve their Italian language skills. We plan to meet late Thursday afternoons for 1 1/2 hours Lucca Real Collegio, 5-6 May. each week at a cafe within the walls of Lucca. If you would like to 17th Anteprima Vini della join us, or have any questions, you can reach us at: Costa Toscana. Hours 11.30am [email protected] 8.30pm. Tickets €25 (€20 for
Anteprima Wine Club, Tessera Conad, Soci AIS, FISAR, ONAV, ASPI, AIES, Students at Agraria,
Simulcasts of operas & ballets at Cinema Centrale, Lucca. 3 Enologia or Campus). Free, by registering, for professionals & May 7.45pm, Manon.the press. Information: 329 6740444, 0583 491880.
#anteprimavini18, www.anteprimavini.com, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Auditorium, 2 May 5pm. Film Genesis by Claude Nuridsany & Marie Perrénou, for Lucca half-marathon around the Lucca Walls. Sign up at Villa Cinema Ezechiele 25,17.Bottini, Via Elisa 35, on 5 May before 8pm (max 2000 people).
Start at 9am on 6 May above Porta Elisa.Firenze, Cinema Odeon at Palazzo Strozzi. Original language films with Italian subtitles. www.odeonfirenze.comLucca 5-6 May 11am to 8pm, Piazza San Francesco, Balestrieri
(crossbowers) tournament. Spring medieval festival with medi-eval market, children’s activities, dancers, flag-tossers, drummers, archers & more. The crossbow competition begins at 3.30pm.
Festa della Repubblica 2 June. National holiday.
Lucca, 27 May 3.30pm to 7.30pm. 23rd Flag-tossing with music tournament. Performers from Calenzano (FI), Città della Pieve Le Fiorite del Corpus Domini. Flower-paved streets during (PG), Gallicano (LU), Torre di Grugliasco (TO), Città di Lucca, the religious procession, 2-3 June in Camaiore, from 7pm Lucera (FG), Montefalco (PG). www.sbandieratoriluccasantanna.it Saturday evening to 10am Sunday morning. Also celebrated in
Capannori (Colle di Compito, Ruota, Camgliano), not neces-sarily on the same date. See article about the Infiorita of Lucca Volunteerism Festival 11 to 13 May in Piazza Scaperia (north of Firenze) on page 7.Napoleone. Tel. 0583 419500 or visit the Centro Nazionale del
Volontariato, Via Catalani 158. www.festivalvoluntariato.itLucca, outdoor summer cinema at Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Late June to late August, with raindates at Cinema Moderno, Lucca, Vespa Village at Foro Boario, Via per Camaiore, Ponte Via V. Emanuele II, 17 (this is subject to change).San Quirico. From the Walls to the Lucca hills. 12-13 May. Sign up
at 2pm on 12 May. €15. Tel. 333 2541252, www.vespaclublucca.itLucca Medievale, 2-3 June 10am to midnight at the Giardino Ex-Cavallerizza, Piazzale Verdi. History, magic, performances, 1000Miglia historic car rally from Brescia to Rome, on the crossbow competition, and more. www.consanpaolino.orgLucca Walls 18 May. Tel. 800 062300, www.1000mìglia.it
Porcari Color Corriamo 9 June 5.30pm beginning at Piazza F. Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 35. WOM Festival of Indie-Italian Orsi (5km Fun Color race) Runners start out dressed in white, music with art & music collectables. 24-25 May 6pm to 1am. Tel.
Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca Auditorium, then at each kilometer colored powders (100% natural prod-340 5342695, www.womfest.itPiazza San Martino 7. Incontri con l’Eccellenza in collaboration ucts) are sprinkled over them, so they end up like rainbows! At with the Accademia Nazionale dei Lincei. 4 May 5.30pm, the finish line, dancing & celebration in front of the stage. Sign Giuliano Amato speaking (in Italian) about the Italian up at any Porcari business. Proceeds will be donated to help
renovate the E. Pea School Library. Children under 3 partici-Constitution. Amato, who twice served as Italian Prime pate for free. Infoline: 392 9092358. See the article about Minister, studied at the Liceo Classico Machiavelli of Lucca and Porcari on page 9.earned a Law degree from Columbia University of New York.
RSVP 0583 3450261.Montecarlo, Tavolata (Long Table) in Via Roma, outdoor din-ner to benefit the Croce Rossa. Reserve early so Grapevine Lucca, Centro Culturale Agorà, Piazza dei Servi. L’Agorà Capannori, Summer in Villa from May to September. A series can book transportation. This will be followed by Montecarlo della Scienza: Ongoing calendar for 2018 (lectures in Italian, of events to promote histroric homes in the area, with visits, Weekends in July/August, with theatre, concerts, jazz & wine, 5.30pm): 19 May, Gravitational waves. 9 June, Archaeology sports, foods, music, etc. Ufficio Marketing Territoriale, tel. 0583 art displays. Piazza Carrara is normally closed to traffic for such & history of a Lucchese monastery on the Via Francigena. 428588.events.Tel. 0583 445716, 0583 445717.
www.agoradellascienza.itComunicare Digitale, 15th European Digital Forum at Lucca’s Real Collegio. 14-15 June. www.comunicaredigitale.it
Pisa Luminara 16 June. 70,000 candles light up the night in a Book Club meetings at Da Francesco Restaurant (near the tradition dating from 1688. Pisa 17 traditional boat regatta.train station), last Wednesday of each month at 8pm.
Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Summer Camp for children Thursday evenings 8.15pm, Grapevine conversation group at ages 6 to 10 & 11 to 13. Play, theatre, art, biodynamic garden-Des Arts Bistro (Piazza San Giusto 9). Come for a drink or ing, piazza & bread-making, swimming, biological meals. dinner, English & Italian conversation. Call 333 8617962.Dates: 11 to 15, 18 to 22, 25 to 29 June. Contact 0583 971475 or www.delloscompiglio.orgMonday 4pm international conversation group behind the
San Salvatore osteria, on the Lucca Walls near Casa del Boia. Pietrasanta International Dance & Art Festiva (DAP), second two weeks in June. Choreographer Kevin Stea. www.dap.comDrink, Speak, and Share! conversation group on Tuesday
evenings 9 to 11pm at T_Caffè, outside Porta San Pietro on www.turismo.lucca.it is another source for events & tours.Viale Regina Margherita. See article on page
Capannori, Artémesia, Via dell’ Aeroporto 10. 9 May 6pm. Building Together the Europe of Tomorrow. An invitation from the Mayor of Capannori. Please call Grapevine to confirm your participation, 333 8617962.
Teatro del Giglio performances for children. 4 May Gianni Schicchi with Stac puppets, ages 8+. 18 May 9.45am & 19 May 9pm Il pirata Barbastrice, opera by Marco Simoni, libretto Fabrizio Altieri, for ages 6+.
Porcari Padulata. May 1st, a bike ride for young & old to the Padule nature preserve. Meeting at 2pm in Piazza degli Alpini, departure at 3pm with escort by TorrettaBike. Prizes for: largest groups, strangest bikes, muddiest children, Miss Mota 2018. Super snack at Lago della Gherardesca. Info: Luca 334 5750003, www.torrettabike.it See article on page 9.
Nature walks with E. Lunardi Amici della Montagna. €15 mem-bership (under 16 free). Group headquarters (monthly meet-ings): Circoscrizione n. 3, via Einaudi, S. Anna. www.amicidellamontagna.lucca.it
Fortezza delle Verrucole (San Romano in Garfagnana). 5-6 May 10am to 6pm. Historic re-enactment. Tel. 340 3586862, www.fortezzaverrucolearcheopark.it
Castiglione di Garfagnana Spring festival 6 May 9am to 6pm. Traditional cooking with local herbs & wild plants. 10am, collect-ing herbs in nearby areas.
Cerretoli (Castelnuovo di Garfagnana) Colori & Sapori. 6 May. Gastronomy, handicrafts, children’s activities. 20.
he idea behind “Drink, Speak and Share” is to connect locals and foreigners living in Lucca through informal meetings. Moving to a new country and facing the TTdifficulties of a new language often prevents
newcomers from meeting new people. On the other hand, it is sometimes difficult for locals, especially in a small, provincial – although touristic – town like Lucca, to have the opportunity to practice foreign languages. The goal of “Drink, Speak and Share” is to meet these two necessities.
Lucky enough to live abroad and travel, I had the chance to experience multicultural contexts and to notice how many connections can arise from a multi-cultural meeting group. I would therefore like to recreate this experience in my home-town. Our intention is not to have “structured” meetings, a bit too similar to language courses, or tandem exchanges, a format that inhibits the opportunity of interfacing with more than one person; that is why “Drink, Speak and Share” comes without predefined rules, and all participants can contribute with their own ideas, introduce new languages and new conversation topics. “Drink, Speak and Share” takes place every Tuesday, from 9 to
11 pm, at T-Caffè, just outside Porta San Pietro*. During a meeting we typically start with English and switch to Italian after a while to help foreigners needing to improve their Italian. There is also room to practice other languages, and, especially in the presence of a native, we do our best to open a conversation in any language in which our guests may be interested. Our goal is to help people developing their language skills, with a focus in speaking fluency and listening comprehension. But most and foremost, our desire is to create an international community in Lucca that could be a reference point for the exchange of ideas and points of view between different cultures.
– by Sara Della Santa + DSS team
(Stefano, Ruben, Giacomo, Alessia, Giulia, Daria)
*The location may be modified during summertime; check our FB page https://www.facebook.com/drinkspeakshareLucca/
for updates!
Editor's note: There are additional groups listed in the Calendar page, meeting on other days and in other places.
Drink, Speak, and Share!
VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.
Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales
House clearance - Removals.
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 201820
Ingredients
�500 g flour (l lb)�400 g sugar (14 oz)�4 medium eggs�250 g (10 oz) almonds,
with skin and without�grated rind of 1 lemon�grated rind of ½ orange�1 teaspoon baking soda�1 teaspoon vanilla essence�1 teaspoon salt
Method
1. Toast almonds until lightly golden in a 180°C or 375°F oven for about 4 minutes. Let them cool. Mix flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, and vanilla in a bowl (or as above).
2. Add grated lemon and orange rind, add the cooled almonds, beat the eggs, and add to the mix. Mix well until it becomes moist.
3. Pour on a flat surface and knead until it starts to get slightly sticky.4. Sprinkle flour on the work surface, shape like a log, divide the dough in 8 pieces.
Sprinkle some flour on the table and roll into 10-inch long sausage-like shapes.5. Prepare a baking dish with a sheet of parchment paper, place the rolls of dough on the
parchment paper about 5 cm or 2 inches apart. 6. Make an egg wash by combining 1 egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush the rolls with
the mixture and sprinkle sugar on top.7. Bake the Cantuccini for about 25 minutes at 180°C or 375°F until golden brown. 8. Remove the Cantuccini from the oven.9. Cut while still hot at a 45° angle in about 2 cm (3/4 inch) thick slices. After cutting,
place the Cantuccini loosely on the hot baking tray to dry. They will become crispy on the outside but soft in the middle. If you leave them out or in a warm place they will gradually harden more.
Buon appetito!!– Chef Paolo Monti
Cantuccini alle Mandorle, a.k.a. Biscotti
9
3
6
7
5
2
8
14
21Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
Enfocus Software - Customer Support
Lido di Camaiore
PROPERTIES FOR SALE BY OWNER
For more information: [email protected]
San Concordio, south of town (10 minutes by foot). Top floor one-bedroom apartment with elevator. 50sqm. Large wrap-around terrace, approx. 40 sqm., with beautiful southern & eastern exposure. Near Nottolini’s acqueduct & bike path.120,000 euros, assumable mortgage (€ 5000 down + € 400 per month). (Ref. 1196)
500m from the BEACH Large home (240 sqm) with garden on 3 sides. 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Fully equipped kitchen. Wrap-around terrace at 1st floor. Garage. Spacious attic & downstairs rooms. 580,000 euros.(Ref. 1194)
An enchanting 18th century villa that sleeps 14 (8 bedrooms w i t h A / C , 6 b a t h r o o m s ) , already booked b y s e a s o n a l renters for much of the summer. In its 2 hectares of beautiful gardens & forests y o u w i l l f i n d a g a z e b o , g r e e n -house, swimming pool, rare plants, even parrots!
C o n v e n i e n t l y located in a quiet village just a short bike ride from the s e a , b e t w e e n Lucca and Pisa. Buses pass the gates hourly. . (Ref. 1197)
Lucca - San Concordio
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 201822
SAN GINESE (CAPANNORI). Delightful country property that can be used as a farmhouse or renovated into an elegant es-tate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedrooms with study + large at-tic (2 more rooms), bath, country kitchen, living room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with upstairs storage room & additional cantinas. Total 380 sqm. On a hill overlooking the Compitese vil-lages & Lago di Bientina. Approx. 4000 sqm of land (grapes/olives/forest). Cl. G IPE 255,20. € 460,000. (Ref. 1165)
Viale San Concordio, 710 - 55100 Lucca, Italy Tel: +39 0583 316636 - [email protected]
www.vannuccieassociati.it
Our membership in a Top 20 international accounting network means we can help any client set up or grow their business internationally.
mmgi vannucci & associatiCHARTERED ACCOUNTANTS & TAX ADVISORS
carrying out the philanthropic donation within 3 months of
in Italy. The 2017 budget law has introduced a “visa for their entrance into Italy;
investors” that allows those who wish to make a long- �demonstrate that they have sufficient resources, in addition to
term investment in Italy or a donation benefiting the the funds cited, in order to maintain themselves during their Tcountry to enjoy special treatment compared to what is usually the stay in Italy.
case for entering and staying in Italy. Article 26 bis of the Single The procedures for requesting the visa and for follow-up
Text on Immigration (Legislative Decree n. 286/1998) regulates communications are entirely online, by way of the portal
the requirements for concession, renewal or revocation of the new http://investorvisa.mise.gov.it/, which is available in both English
visa for investors. The operating procedures are defined by the and Italian. This is an accelerated and centralized procedure, with
decree DM 21 July 2017 and the Operating Manual of 16 the authorization for releasing the visa sent by an ad hoc inter-
November 2017. institutional committee, within 30 days of the request. The
The most important characteristic of this visa category is that procedure is as follows:
it allows entrance and stay in Italy for more than 3 months. 1. At the dedicated online portal, the foreign investor presents a
Generally, each year there are quotas on the maximum number of request for authorization to release the visa for investors,
foreigners to be admitted into Italy, as defined by the Single Text which is then evaluated by an inter-institutional committee.
on Immigration. Investors benefiting from this new option will Having verified that the request meets the legal requirements,
not have to undergo such restrictions, as long as they meet the the committee communicates the authorization for the visa
general requirements for obtaining this visa. within 30 days. After this, the visa can be picked up
The program, called “Investor Visa for Italy”, is aimed in within 6 months from the competent diplomatic consular
particular at citizens of countries outside the European Union or representative.
Schengen region. In order to obtain the visa for investors, 2. Once in Italy, the investor should make the investment or the
foreigners should do one of the following: donation for which the visa has been granted, then:
1. make an investment of at least 2 million euros in Italian �within 8 days of entrance into Italy, request the biennial
government bonds and keep this for at least 2 years; permit to stay for investors;
2. make an investment of at least 1 million euros in "instruments �within 3 months of entrance, upload at the dedicated site all the
of capital” (for example, shares) of a firm established and documentation demonstrating the investment or donation made.
operating in Italy (500,000 euros in the case of an innovative Failure to do this will result in revocation of the permit to stay.
startup) and maintain this for at least 2 years.
3. make a philanthropic donation of at least 1 million euros, The visa will be attached to a biennial permit to stay, with the
supporting a project in the public interest, in the sectors of words “for investors”. During this period the visa holder has the
culture, instruction, immigration management, scientific obligation of maintaining the investment. The visa can be extended
research, or restoration of cultural properties or landscape for another 3 years.
features.
Furthermore, investors must: A final feature of this arrangement is the possibility for the �show that they are the beneficiaries or actual owners of the holder of the “visa for investors” to be accompanied by family
amounts indicated above, and that the sums are available and members who have the right to be re-united, under the provisions
can be transferred to Italy; of Article 29 of the Single Text on Immigration. These will be
�formally assume, by way of a written declaration, the given a “visa for family reasons” in terms of Article 30 of the
intention of investing the above indicated amount and Single Text.
here's some interesting news for foreigners investing
Investor Visa for Italy
23Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
Enfocus Software - Customer Support
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018 24
Remembering Mary Campbell
I will leave Shakespeare's words from NEW YEAR 2014 Cymbeline as a final farewell to a dear To everyone in Syria and beyondfriend: Fear no more the heat of the sun, Nor the winter's rages. Thou thy earthly I see they've bombed the souk againrace hath run, home hath gone and ta'en and left so many dead,thy wages.Though they were only women,
queuing for some bread.
– by Judith EdwardsMarch 2018. She would have Then they've bombed the mosque again judithedwards.co.uk
and killed a hundred more,Mbeen 71 in June. She had lived in www.cansurviving.comThough they were only old men,the tiny village of Tiglio for forty years, first kneeling on the floor.running an artists' bed and breakfast, then
becoming a translator, an interpreter and a So they went and bombed the church againpsychotherapist. She had plans to return to though it was Christmas Day
Kurdistan, where she worked with refugees, And they were only Catholics,
but had recently been refused a visa by the trying hard to pray.Iraqi authorities. As one of her Syrian friends said, Now you know how we feel, Mary. They had to bomb the school again
Her death was swiftly reported in to keep things nice and fair,Barga News, alongside a picture of Mary Though they were only babies,giving a talk about Syria to people in Barga wide-eyed and unaware.
and Fornaci di Barga. The writer suggested They even bombed the prisonsshe was 'an angel on earth.' Well, she was to push their point againnot a saint or an angel but a human being of But those inside felt nothing,flesh and blood, perhaps nearer to those their souls dumb-numb with pain.states than many of us (she would laugh if
she could see me writing this). She had a They've bombed the people crazy
wicked sense of humour (see photograph) and ripped their lives apart,and looked on with ironic gentleness as And they were all their brethren,people sometimes disagreed with her same blood, same flesh, same heart.forthrightly held views.
I wrote to an Italian friend, Graziella And when they've no more bombs to throwCosimini: I am too heart-sore to write in And their guns have no more lead,
Will they be glad in their holy warItalian, but I just had to contact you so we That's left God's loved ones dead?can all weep together about this sad sad
passing of Mary...last year in June I wrote And who, you cry in terror,to her that I thought “we old crones will, we Are these barbaric 'they'?hope, go on dancing for many years”...little They're you and me and all of us
knowing what the future held in store. I Who turn our gaze away.
treasure all the moments spent with Mary, who made such an amazing recovery from being attacked on her road to Tiglio many Another kind friend who wrote to me years ago, as I am sure many others do, and and my husband said: We were all am wearing a necklace she brought me staggered because we ran into her on back from Kurdistan last summer, with a Thursday and invited her for a coffee but picture too of a pregnant woman. Graziella she declined, saying, “I have been coffeed then wrote to tell me about the funeral. Two to death this morning.” She looked in monks sang Arabic prayers, which would perfect health then and joked about a pile have pleased her, and there must indeed of snow which the commune workers had have been tears in many eyes. made on the piazza...
Mary worked with many women in A Californian friend who had known Barga, as well as in Syria, being a leading Mary all the forty years she lived in Italy figure in the Pari Opportunità (Equal said: I find passing days simply make me Opportunities) movement. When I asked realize more profoundly what a loss we what she did in Syria and Kurdistan she have experienced. I guess the news takes a was very down to earth: yes, she worked little time to fully sink in. Mary was such a with teaching English, with supporting the deep soul and strong spirit, it's very hard to children, but sometimes she was simply think of her not being here. I guess we must sourcing brassieres for women who had remember that she is here in our own left their homes with only the clothes on hearts.their backs. Hard for us all to imagine. She She and I used to support each other in sent me this poem, copyrighted to her; I clinical work (anonymously, of course) as hope I don't dishonour her by quoting here: well as all else.
ary Campbell died suddenly in
In Mary’s own words, written inNovember 2017 for Progetto Donna
in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana:
I was born with a profound sense of curiosity and a great desire to get to know more about the human race.
After graduating in Psychology and Theology in the 1960s, I began my travels among various peoples and to various places in the world. I spent three months in an Israeli kibbutz in 1966, a year before the war that would change Palestinian history even then. I went to learn something about living in that kind of a community. Immediately after graduation, I went to Indonesia for two years as a volunteer teaching the English language at a university in Java. This was 1969 and 1970, the years following the revolution in Indonesia that left the rivers red with blood. There, I quickly learned how much I had to learn from the experience … much more than they did!!
My first trip to Syria was in 2003, the year of the Iraq invasion. I went with a group, almost all American peace activists. We were all angry with our governments, and with their involvement with this war. I thought I would go for fifteen days only, to witness the hospitality and welcoming nature of the Middle East, even though the Western world was ready to see all of them as terrorists.
Fifteen years later, I am still travelling to the Middle East three or four times a year, for projects with children, women, and myself -- yes, for the adventure too, but above all for love.
Being a volunteer is not a question of whether we are paid or not, whether we do something important or not. For me, it means going with open heart and mind, ready for whatever may occur.
All these trips to places of war and change have made me think a lot about the words “war” and “peace”.
When I'm not travelling, I continue my life among the trees and greenery of Tiglio, which nourish me, and I continue my work teaching language and communication and doing counseling.
Pisa Airport · Barga Sotto, Poli· · Barga Vecchia, Nardini · Train Station Edicola Ale’
· Ponte all'Ania, Bertoncini · Piazzale Ricasoli (Lucca), · Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Magnani Tourist Center
· Costanzi, Borgo Stretto 115 (Via Farini) · Viale Regina Margherita 113 (Lucca), Luccalibri Libreria-Caffè Letterario
· Guamo, Luchi Moira (Sottopoggio)· Viareggio, Marine Store, Via Coppino 421
· San Concordio, Edicolè · Pietrasanta, Giuntini (Piazza Principale)
(V/le S. Concordio 224)· Tonfano, Libreria Tonacchera, · Sant’Anna, BertiVia Versilia 6
San Lorenzo, La Perla (Via per Pisa)· Camaiore, Dalle Luche Daniela, · Cartoleria Gentile, Via Fillungo 225· San Leonardo in Treponzio, Via di Mezzo · Martini, Via Fillungo 138
· Forte dei Marmi, Borri, Piazza Garibaldi · Lorenzini, Via Fillungo 16 Il Pennarello (Via di Tiglio)
· Edicola Souvenir, Via S. Paolino 54In the Mountains · La Medica, Via Vittorio Veneto 11
· Monsagrati, La Coccinella · De Lillo, Via V. Emanuele 40 · Arancio, Baldassarre, Viale (Strada per Camaiore) · Pantera-Brancoli, Via Beccheria 9 Castracani 831
· La Cappella, Viani (Strada per Camaiore) · Susilab, Via Calderia · Montecarlo, Associazione Pro Loco, · Ponte a Moriano, Orlandi · Gallacci, Piazza dei Cocomeri Via Roma 3
(Piazza Principale) · Cerboncini, Via Santa Croce 45· Montecarlo, Sergio Morello
· Valdottavo, Darma, Via Comunale 34 · Il Giornalaio, Piazza San Francesco(Via Roma)
· Diecimo (Borgo a Mozzano), Guidi Benito · Pescia, Alma, Piazza principaleFabrizio (Via S. Quasimodo 26)
· Borgo a Mozzano, Centro Ufficio West(shopping center, near Penny Market)
· Borgo Giannotti, Giannecchini· Fornoli, Cartolibreria Serra San Marco, San Marco Press· Sant'Alessio, La Scatola Magica· Bagni di Lucca, Edicola Punto Sma · Segromigno, Lazzereschi Villa Torrigiani)
South
Edicola Stile Toscano
Pisa Town Center
In Lucca
Near the Coast
(pedestrian street)·
East
Outside Lucca
North
·
· Grapevine office, Via dell’Angelo Custode, 3A
· Itinera Tourism Office, Piazzale Verdi· San Frediano Youth Hostel,
Via Cavallerizza, 12
AND at (where you can also order an on-line or postal subscription)
tel. 0583 909012 or write to
www.luccagrapevine.com
WHERE GRAPEVINE IS SOLDTU
SCAN
Y’S
MAGAZIN
E
(newsstands)
25Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
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Pay as You Go and monthly contract is available - pay only for the months you are here?
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Agenzia Immobiliare Dimore Toscane srl Via Marconi 14, Barga - Lucca - Italy
Ref. 926:
Ref. 336:
Fabbriche di Vallico, Media Valle di Serchio. House full of character with garden, pool & garage. 200sqm, 4 bedrooms, 1 bath. 9 rooms with original wooden floors & chestnut beams. Garden WC with shower. APE Class G. € 285,000.
APE Class G.
APE Class G.
Ref. 311:
Ref. 780:
New build, well-detailed property on outskirts of Barga. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths. 160sqm. Pergola, jacuzzi, topiary, hot-tub, garage (currently
used as a gym). € 325,000.
Ponte a Moriano, on the outskirts of Lucca. Silk Villa on 3 levels with 2 entrances. 415sqm, 17 rooms, 4 baths, currently 3 separate units (ground floor, 1st floor, loft apartments). Pleasant garden spaces, 2000sqm, with terraces, parking, stone wall, iron fencing & gate. € 500,000.
New builds in Pian di Coreglia, pan-oramic views, with terrace or garden. Two types
of units: 75mq or 150mq. The ground floor is wheelchair friendly. Turn-key. APE Class B. Price range € 125,000 to € 135,000 and € 200,000 to
€ 235,000.
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Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling through mead-ows & forest. Wheelchair access & large park-ing area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 695,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)
Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 201826
RIVERFRONT PROPERTY Ideal for fishermen & bathers, facing the Serchio River at the foot of the Brancoli hills. Early 1900s estate with traditional tile & parquet floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc. Can be a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 floors) or 2 apartments (total 408 sqm). The large garden with trees & olives is bounded by a mule track & old stone wall. Terrace near the kitchen, ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate. Parking for 4-5 cars inside the property & along the river. Energy certificate available. € 420,000. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 1179)
Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165.000. Tel. 348 6559698. (Ref. 1188)
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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FORM
Telephone......................................................... .............................................................Email
Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems
Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens
tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]
www.ilcerchioverde.it
Il Cerchio Verde
Please use the form on our webpage or send us an email at: [email protected]
Classified AdvertisementsAlso visible at
www.luccagrapevine.com
335 6777833
via De Gasperi n° 279 • 55100 Lucca
[email protected] • www.ri-struttura.it
trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.
[email protected]. 333 8617962
HARPIST
In the heart of Lucca, near Via Fillungo & Torre delle Ore. Beautiful, luminous 3rd floor apartment. 220 sqm. Large entrance hall, 4 bedrooms, 2 baths, spacious kitchen from the 1500s, enormous living room, loft area with 2 rooms & laundry. Ceilings up to 4 meters high, floors in terracotta & tessieri, wood beam ceilings, wood panelled living room ceiling. (Ref 1184)
RENTALS
ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES
LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES
Landscape design & Garden maintenance. Call Tommaso at cell. (+39) 349 284 5399 or email [email protected]
Online Property Marketers - Based in the UK we market Holiday www.luccalandscape.it (Ref. 572)Rentals and Villas For Sale in Tuscany. We require extra properties to market for the 2018 season in the province of Lucca, email: [email protected] (Ref. 1181)
Guided Reading and Phonics Club for native English and bilingual children aged 4 to 11. Please call or send a Whatsapp message to Deborah 338 3963041 for further information. (Ref. 1193)
Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)
Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.
Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)
Villa Valentina (Vorno). Driver (9 seater van) needed from 10 to 20 May 2018. Bilingual. Knowledge of the Cinque Terre, Lucca and Pisa areas a plus. Please contact [email protected] or call +447 810867195. (Ref. 1190)
Dental Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. 25a, Lucca. Tel. and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ Let us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)German. [email protected]
Miss Penny Apple Vintage Tea Party. Catering or, on the 2nd & 4th Lawyer Daria Mariani (English spoken). Real estate, contracts, inheri- Saturday each month (3.30 pm), at Villa Claudia, Forte dei Marmi. On tance, accident, family, commercial, auctions, etc. Tel. 0583 316110, cell. Facebook or at: [email protected] 340 8672443, [email protected] (Ref. 1191) (Ref. 1160)
Complete kitchen wall & base units with polished solid hardwood doors, in good condition, for 350 euros. Tel. Nigel, 324 6071451. (Ref. 1198)
Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]
Lawyer Enrico Del Buono - Lucca, Via San Marco, 584 - Viareggio, Via IV Novembre, 107 - Montecatini Terme, Via Maona 7. Tel. 0583 587532, cell. 347 2232535, [email protected]
Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)
Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)
Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 492853.
Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, [email protected]
Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.
VARIOUS
U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY
Alexander v.Pinoci PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)
email: [email protected] pec: [email protected]
Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/
Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719
Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508
cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949
Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements and assumes no responsibility for their content.
27Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine May 2018
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