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GRAPEVINEGRAPEVINE

Contents

3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020

Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

EditorNorma Jean Bishop

ContributorsHelen AskhamAnna BenedettoNorma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseClaudia CasoliRod DanielTommaso De MasiJudith EdwardsThomas S. EnglandEleni GkovedarouSimone LippiGeoff PavittSue PerryFrancis PettittMaria TsaousidouVannucci & Associati

Marketing & DistributionAlex GalliDiana GattiNicola GirolamiSilvano Simi

Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine by Grapevine EditionsVisit us at Via dell’Angelo Custode 3A, Lucca Centro Storico 55100 Italy.Mobile +39 333 8617962 - [email protected] - www.luccagrapevine.com - QR-Code M5UXCR1 P. IVA 02416230460 - C.F. BSHNMJ48C65Z404D. Iscrizione CCIAA - LU 223932. Registrazione Tribunale di Lucca n° 4, 23 Feb. 2016. Printed by SEC srl - Fornacette - Pisa (PI).

Articles/photos for consideration may be submitted to the Editor. Advertising in editorial form may also be submitted for inclusion. Pages enclosed within a frame contain paid submissions. Unsigned articles are by the Editors.

© Tuscany’s Grapevine Magazine © What’s On In & Around

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off. Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or of the Direttore Responsabile.

Cover:

Camellias at Villa Orsi

from Antiche Camelie della Lucchesia

Art/Music/Books/Beauty

Traditions & History

Food and Gardens

Practical

What’s On In & Around

Bilingual Crossword

Properties for Sale

Professionals, Classifieds

Napoli Milionaria at Teatro del Giglio 5

Altri Tempi, Anni Fa ... Hare Ragù with Pappardelle 20

Wine Tasting in Montecarlo 24

9-16

Cubanía by Ramon Cotarelo Crego 9

Discoveries regarding Matteo Civitali 11

Evita at Pietrasanta 6

Walking on English Stones in Florence 18

A New Ammodonostro Restaurant 4

Getting Your Italian Driver’s License 21

Tax Deductions for Restructuring 22

14

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23

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 20202

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Restaurant Tasting menus

Napoli Milionaria at Teatro del Giglio


apoli Milionaria is an opera in three acts based on a 1945 play of the same name by Eduardo De Filippo (1900-1984), who NN also wrote the libretto to the opera. De

Filippo was also responsible for the 1950 film Side Street Story (based on his play) which he wrote, directed, acted and co-produced with the famous Italian film producer Dino De Laurentiis (1919- Nino Rota was born in 1911 into a 2010). The film, first shown in 1951 at the Cannes musical family from Milan and was a Film Festival, also starred the great Italian comic child prodigy composing his first actor Antonio De Curtis better known as Totò (1898- oratorio L'infanzia di San Giovanni 1967). The music for both the film and the opera was Baptista (The Childhood of Saint John composed by Nino Rota (1911-1979) who is perhaps the Baptist) at the age of eleven. During nowadays most famous for composing much of the his long career, he became well-known music for the first two films of Francis Ford for his numerous (over 150) film scores, Coppola's trilogy The Godfather for which he shared working with the great Italian film an Academy Award (an Oscar) in 1972 for Godfather directors Federico Fellini (1920-1993), Part II with the director's father Carmine Coppola. Luchino Visconti (1906-1976) and Franco Zeffirelli (1923-2019).

Napoli Milionaria first premiered at the Teatro Caio Melisso in Rota also composed the music for ten operas, five ballets and Spoleto, Umbria in 1977, conducted by Bruno Bartoletti (1926- numerous orchestral, choral and chamber music. He was also a 2013) from Florence during the Festival dei Due Mondi. Based on musical academic, having directed the Liceo Musicale in Bari for Side Street Story, the opera is a combination of satire and comedy nearly thirty years. It was after meeting with Arturo Toscanini that of ordinary people living in crisis in Naples during WWII. The Rota was encouraged to move to America. Amongst his other great streets are dominated by Fascists, Nazis and finally the Allied film scores were The Glass Mountain (1949), La Dolce Vita occupation forces of Britain and America having to survive on the (1960), Il Gattopardo (1963) and Romeo and Juliet (1968).'black market'. The opera is part of the L.T.L.OperaStudio project Lucchese born Jonathan Brandani will be conducting Napoli between the Teatro del Giglio (Lucca), the Teatro Milionaria in Lucca, Pisa and Livorno this year. Verdi (Pisa) and the Teatro C. Goldoni (Livorno). It Since 2014, Jonathan has been Associate will be performed in Lucca on 14 and 15 March 2020 Conductor of Minnesota Opera, where he has by the OGI, the Orchestra Giovanile Italiana. conducted Puccini's Tosca and La Bohème,

Eduardo De Filippo was born in Naples in Donizetti's Don Pasquale and Rota's Il cappello di 1900, where he was the illegitimate son of comedy paglia di Firenze (The Italian Straw Hat). As actor Eduardo Scarpetta (1853-1925). Eduardo someone I have known as a friend and admired took his mother Luisa’s surname, De Filippo. She since 2015 when he conducted Rossini's L'italiana was a theatre seamstress and costumier. He began in Algeri, I highly recommend reading Jonathan's acting aged five and by 1932 had formed a theatre biography (www.jonathanbrandani.net) to fully company with his brother Peppino and sister Titina. appreciate his talent and achievements.After WWII was able to buy the San Ferdinando

– by Geoff Pavitttheatre in Naples. His legacy as an actor and director was inherited by his son Luca (1948- Teatro del Giglio, Lucca2015), who became a successful Italian film and 14 March 8.30pm/15 March 4pmtelevision actor. Box Office tel. 0583 465320

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EditorialDear Friends and Readers,

from Norma and the Grapevine Team

March blows into Tuscany with its usual energy, bringing rainstorms and spring flowers. Throughout the world, many people are also concerned with COVID19, the coronavirus. We hope it won't spread any further, and if it does, that a vaccine can be perfected quickly!

Meanwhile, let's look at the beauty around us, starting with the cover of Tuscany's Grapevine Magazine. When the camelias start to bloom, the Antiche Camelie della Lucchesia Festival celebrates in the Compitese. Festa della Donna, 8 March, is when we celebrate women's contributions, and the Domus Romana (Via C. Battisti 15, in Lucca's Centro Storico) has a special program planned (see page 16). Another good occasion for English speakers to delve deeper into Italian culture!

Last month we held a Valentine's Day wine-tasting lunch at Fattoria Enzo Carmignani near Montecarlo, walking in the vineyards and around Pinocchio’s oak tree. A return visit can be arranged. This month we might go to the Villa Reale, where Elisa Bonaparte's chambers and gardens are on sumptuous display. Next month, we can arrange a replica of the wonderful Easter Sunday lunch at La Cantina di Carignano, which we enjoyed last year. Chef Monti, returning from Mexico, will surely have some surprises for us! We look forward then to May, and Fashion in Flair at Villa Bottini: this year Grapevine is participating as a media partner.…

In this issue, writer Chiara Calabrese takes you on a walking tour of Florence, with an English theme. Geoff Pavitt previews the post-WWII themed opera, Napoli Milionaria, with Lucchese director Jonathan Brandani conducting. Tommaso De Masi evokes a mental excursion to Querceta in search of Eva Perón. On a more practical level, there is an article by Vannucci Associati about tax deductions for restorations, and by Rod Daniel about how to meet the challenge of obtaining the Italian driving license. Judith Edwards, from Barga, opens our eyes to nature by discussing the famous March hare and how to cook it into a traditional sauce. (After reading her article, while coming home to Pescaglia I encountered two foxes chasing each other across the road and through the fields, full of spring spirit….)

A few reminders: There's a new garbage system in Lucca’s Historic Center; it's called Garby (wonderful mix of the words garbo and garbage…). If you live here, be careful to learn the new rules. You can pick up Sistema Ambiente's brochures around town, or visit their offices Tuesdays to Thursdays at Via delle Tagliate III, traversa IV, n. 136, Borgo Giannotti.

Two of our readers noted that in the last issue we omitted some precious information: The address of Etta's Bookshop is Via Chiasso Barletti 16 (in Lucca's Centro Storico). The book The Fireflies of Autumn can be purchased in an online version or directly from the publishers in Australia, for 30 Australian dollars + postage: Black Inc. / Level 1, 221 Drummond Street / Carlton, VIC 3053 / Australia. Phone: +61 3 9486 0288, Fax: +61 3 9011 6106, Email: [email protected]. (Maybe Etta's Bookshop can order this for you.)

My recipe for a rainy day: cat in my lap, book or magazine in my hands, tea or wine nearby. Sending you our best wishes for a happy, healthy, sunny month of March,

NEW RATES FOR GRAPEVINE

Printing and mailing costs have been rising over the years.Beginning with February 2020, the newsstand price of Grapevine is 2.90 euros,

an increase of 40 cents. Postal subscription rates (for hard copy with complimentary online included) are also

slightly higher, while the online subscription rate (24 euros per year) remains unchanged.

well-sourced wine list offers a range of excellent wines, which will include selected, locally produced “guest wines”.

year, Ristorante Ammodonostro will Ristorante Ammodonostro intends to serve as an art and cultural centre, with exhibits from established and upcoming A reopen on Sunday, March 8. artists, and relaxing musical entertainment, heightening the

Our new manager, , has been running restaurants clients' dining experience and promoting the work of local artists. in New York and in the Versilia region for several years, and has a As our first guest artist on opening night, we are honoured to well-earned reputation in the area for her friendly, but organized be joined by Lucca native, Maestro , whose and efficient way of “getting things done”, always with the works have been displayed throughout Italy and worldwide.Customer at heart. Doors open at 19:00, with an exclusive 15 % discount on your

Vittoria brings with her Chef , whose dishes bill offered for opening night! Reservations are suggested.are based around wholesome, traditional cooking, but each with a modern twist. His signature plates include Summer Pomorola (pappa al pomodoro), crostate perfumed with homemade apricot jam, delicious chocolate cake using 72% dark chocolate, accompanied by fresh orange salsa, and much more.

Chef Donatelli has been creating exciting dishes at restaurants in Versilia for over 15 years, most recently working alongside chef Alessandro Giannetti of CaseAle in Pietrasanta, and in other prominent restaurants, including Gatto Nero and Ristorante Antico Frantoio la Martinatica, Pietrasanta, and Ristorante Pescheria Via di Scampo, Querceta.

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HISTORICAL NOTES:

In 1943, Juan Domingo Perón, an unknown colonel who returned after a period spent in Mussolini's Italy and Franco's Spain, entered the Argentine scene. As secretary of state, he became very popular among the proletarians and the middle class. The generals first forced him to resign, but then they were had to recall him on the wave of popular demonstrations (famous is the protest of 17 October 1945, known as the manifestation of the descamisados, the "shirtless"). Peronism was the political movement that Perón created when he was president of the Argentine Republic, from 1946 to 1955. To differentiate his movement from a political party, Perón emphasized the composite character of Peronism, which consisted not only of a political party, but also of trade unions, as well as an agglomeration of other forces, such as students, sports, etc., which flowed into the movement and was to represent the totality of national interests. This movement was also given the name of justicialism. Perón was elected president first in 1946 and, after an ad hoc modification of the constitution, he was re-elected in 1951. After being dispossessed and forced to flee in 1955, he returned in 1973 and was re-elected with 62% of the votes. He died on 1 July 1974.

The sculptor Leone Tommasi of Pietrasanta was very well known in Argentina. Evita Perón, when she was alive, commissioned him to make a complex work formed by a set of figures to celebrate the descamisado, symbol of the Argentine people.

Nothing of this project to glorify Evita was achieved, not even when Juan Perón was in power. That body made incorruptible has indeed its crystal case, but it lies in the building of the CGT (Syndicate), visible only to a few people. When the dictator fell, for Evita, uncomfortable as a dead woman, there began sad and humiliating wanderings. In fact, when Perón fled to Paraguay (1955), the new leaders of the government found themselves facing the embarrassing problem of that golden-haired mummy. They did not destroy it, but for a long time the body wandered from one temporary accommodation to another. These were very secret operations that, however, as soon as Evita's body arrived somewhere, became known to all. It could be seen from the flowers and candles that suddenly appeared in the neighborhood. Eventually they got the body out of Argentina. And Evita disappeared. It was only in 1970 that General Lanusse, in order to come to terms with Perón, again very powerful, had the body found. Evita was in Milan, buried in a cemetery under the false name of Maria Maggi. So in the end the body arrived in Spain at the headquarters of Perón, who was close to regaining power at home. After fifteen years, the general saw, without much emotion it seems, the woman who had contributed so much to his political success. The body was in bad shape; one could now realize that in the days of the Revolución Libertadora it had received not a few outrages. The doctor who had embalmed her was tracked down and he repaired the damage, while Isabelita, Perón's ambitious third wife, sewed her new clothes and made her chignon. And once Perón, who had had neither the time nor the desire to take care of the deceased, himself died, it was the ex-dancer Isabelita, intent on appropriating Peron's prestige, who during the brief period of her presidency brought Evita's body home (17 November 1974), with full honors. But it didn't last long: Isabelita was driven out, and the military established the bloody dictatorship that led to the thirty thousand desaparecidos.

They didn't know what to do with Evita. They returned her body to the nuns, and finally that restless body found peace in a cemetery in Buenos Aires. Today only a small tombstone identifies it. But in that last decade Evita was not interested in Argentina anymore.

Evita became a musical written by Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber, freely inspired by the life of Evita Perón. The musical traces the life of the charismatic first-lady from her youth to the rise to power alongside her husband, up to her premature death, showing love on the one hand, driven almost by the people's veneration, and on the other, the critical and doubtful attitude of Che Guevara who, as narrator, tells the story of the protagonist with irony and hostility. The first performance of Evita was a recording by the same authors of Jesus Christ Superstar. The album was released in 1975. The performers were Julie Covington (Evita), Colm Wilkinson (Che, the narrator, apparently inspired by Che Guevara), Paul Jones (Juan Perón), Barbara Dickson (the lover), and Tony Christie (Magaldi ). The theatrical debut, instead, took place on June 21st 1978, in a theater of the West End in London. The role of Evita was entrusted to Elaine Paige, chosen from a vast number of candidates. A film was also planned, whose protagonists should have been Barbara Streisand and Barry Gibb, with Ken Russell as director. The project did not go through, and it was only in 1996 that Evita came to the big screen, with Madonna in the main role, Antonio Banderas in that of Che, and Jonathan Pryce in that of Perón. Among the most famous songs of the musical are Don't Cry for Me, Argentina, sung by Evita from the balcony of the Casa Rosada on the day of the proclamation of her husband’s election as President (October 17th 1945), Oh What a Circus, and High Flying Adored, in which Che tells Eva's career with caustic tones, and Another Suitcase in Another Hall.

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020 6

Evita at Pietrasanta

entrusted with the project. He went to Argentina several times

white marble was in the autumn of 1962. Every between 1950 and 1954 to complete the statue in Eva’s honor.

morning, on my bicycle, I used to pass by a sculpture It should have become her statue, commented the old man. TTworkshop in Querceta (near Pietrasanta) to get to the The idea was that Eva, who, after her death had been embalmed

railway station, where I took the train to school. in defiance of eternity, should have lain in a glass coffin in an

The statue portrayed a beautiful but haughty woman. The enormous and magnificent mausoleum. The project called for

accurate workmanship clearly revealed the sculptor's adoption placing above the casket containing her embalmed body, a very

of classical Roman style. The statue's sculptural softness, tall statue in white marble representing her, Eva Duarte, who

delicate sensuality, and serenity of the figure struck me, in spite had been born poor but had become an icon, idolised or

of her severe look. The pose was static and contemplative blasphemed, considered by some a saint, by others a witch.

indeed, but more than a youthful technical exercise, the Then he added: However, Perón was deposed in 1955 and

introspective characteristics made me think of it as the product was forced to flee. The events that followed were, for us,

of the sculptor's artistic maturity. The statue had a noble pose, incomprehensible, because the statue in honor of Evita, mostly

full of movement and free from severity: one could say a already paid for at the time of being commissioned by the

composition conceived with a classical breath. The Peronist government, remained abandoned under a canopy for

sophisticated fullness of her oval neck and hair mirrored the so many years. Evita was of no interest to anyone, except tourists

fineness of her lips, her nose, and her melancholy eyes, which who had known her through a recording and then a musical.

were, however, neither empty nor expressionless. I mentioned that the delicate sensuality and the tenderness

Over the years I was curious that although the enormous of the statue's form had in particular struck me. Yes – continued

sculpture had since long been completed, it remained abandoned the man – With this sculpture, Tommasi has in his own way

under a canopy outside the workshop. For at least five years it overcome the academism, offering a new figurative language,

had remained in that place, and with the passage of the time it where the realism of the figure appears animated by a thin and

had acquired a grey patina, owing perhaps due to the dust and to subtle lyricism.

time. I never would have expected this workman to be so

Every time I passed by the workshop I observed her: in my informed, not only about Peronism, but also about the life and

own way I was fond of her. Then, having changed my routine, I death of Eva Perón. He talked at great length, allowing me to

forgot about the statue, until after many years I happened to pass discover what I had not known about the events. Furthermore, he

that road by car. The statue was no longer there, and in its place clarified for me what had happened in the end to the statue of

was a block of marble still without form. I stopped, almost Evita: In 1971, I received a commission from the government of

disappointed: I never expected that I would no long find her an African country, whose name I can't say, for the production of

there. a marble statue to be located in the main square of the capital

I thought I would go and ask for some information, if only to city. The work had to represent the freedom won by that country

fulfill that unappeased curiosity from the past. In the square with the end of colonial dictatorship. What a better occasion for

there was an old craftsman, covered from head to foot in white dispensing with the statue of Evita! We presented the project,

powder, sculpting a piece of marble. and after approval the statue was loaded on board a vessel in the

I wondered how he could continue his work, given that the Port of Carrara, destined for Africa!

glasses he was wearing were covered in at least a centimeter of I was not surprised by the end of this story. No one would

powder. I approached him, waited for him to pause in his work, have imagined that more than a decade after completion, that

then introduced myself. I asked him what had happened to that statue would have really represented Eva Perón, the wife of a

enormous marble statue, which I had noticed for years dictator. In subsequent years, however, after carefully

underneath the canopy. The story that he told me was incredible. researching and studying Leone Tommasi's artwork, I had few

The sculptor told me that the statue had been commissioned doubts regarding the authenticity of the craftsman's story.

by the Perón government (1) after the death of Evita, in 1952.

Leone Tommasi, a sculptor living in Pietrasanta, had been – by Tommaso De Masi

he first time I noticed that enormous statue of pure

This article was written 50 years after Evita was found in Milan, buried in a cemetery under the false name of Maria Maggi.

Bust (statue) of Evita – Museum in Buenos Aires

GRAPEVINE

March 2020 pull-out events calendar

General markets Books and prints Arts and crafts

Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Corte del Biancone DailyLucca, S. Francesco. fruits/vegetables Wed 4-7pmLucca, Portone dei Borghi Wednesdays 10am to 7pm

Lucca, near the fairground Wed & Sat a.m.Antiques Lucca, Corso Garibaldi 2nd weekend of the month

B. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoonsLucca 3rd Sat/Sunday S. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthAltopascio 2nd Sunday

Pieve Fosciana last SundayPonte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday

Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday Plants and flowersS. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.Pietrasanta 1st Sunday Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsPietrasanta Thurs a.m.

Pietrasanta 3rd SundayBarga 2nd SundayMarina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.

Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday Markets in Florence (the biggest)Tonfano Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed SundaysCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

Ma

rk

ets

by the Fondazione Banca del Monte di

Lucca and Lucca Sviluppo and dedicated to

Ramon Cotarelo Crego, will be held from 6 TMarch to 5 April 2020, at the Palazzo delle

Esposizioni, piazza San Martino 7. Architect, painter,

professor, researcher, Crego has spent more than 40

years studying, teaching, disseminating and

safeguarding cultural heritage.

Born in 1951, Crego has been an invited lecturer

and consultant in many countries, especially Africa

and Latin America, on mission for UNESCO. For 25

years, Crego worked in his home region of Matanzas,

Cuba, to restore and preserve the cultural heritage.

Crego has been living in Italy since the year 2000.

After studying the Italian language at the University of

Siena, he pursued postgraduate studies in

Conservation and Restoration of Monuments and

Historical Centers in Florence (1981-1982), followed

by other courses at the University of Pisa, then became

certified as a professor by the Italian Ministry of

Public Instruction.

Beginning in 2018, Crego decided to pursue

painting more seriously, and since then he has held

various exhibitions, primarily in Viareggio.

This exhibition, organized by

the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca and Lucca

Sviluppo,

is being held at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni,

piazza San Martino 7.

Hours: Tuesdays to Sundays 3.30pm to 7.30pm.

Free admission.

6 March to 5 April 2020.

For information: www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it

he exhibition Canto all’Identità, organized

9Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

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Lucca Centro Storico

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LUCCA CENTRO STORICO

Spacious first-floor apartment with 2 bed-rooms, 1 bath, terrace. A/C kitchen. 110 sqm. € 389,000. (Ref. 1247)

Puccinielasualucca for its winter season (1 November to 31 March)offers concerts on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays

at the Oratorio of San Giuseppe at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the adjacent Cathedral Museum.

www.puccinielasualucca.com [email protected]

or call 340 8106042.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 202010 15Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

85pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio, Ridotto. Jonathan Brandani at the piano presents Napoli Milionaria to the public. See article on page 5.

15.30pm, Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Sala Ferrario. Sentieri musicali. Recital by harpist Alessandra Ziveri, Liberty harp of the ‘800-’900. www.villabertelli.it

39pm, Lucca, Piazza Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Open Concert.

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910am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Bass Masterclass.

1010am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Bass & Flute Masterclasses with David Heyes & Sarah Poole.


1110am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Flute Masterclass.

1610am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. GuitarMasterclass.


2310am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Piano Masterclass.

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Lucca, Dance Meeting. Debussy’s La Scatola dei giocattoli. 3 performances especially for primary schools.


Lucca, San Francesco Church. Dancers performing to the music of Mahler, with the Boccherini Orchestra with soloists Sandra Pastrana & Gian Luca Pasolini.

275pm, Lucca, Dance Meeting Incursions. Over 1000 dancers from around the world will be performing throughout town, often with musicians from the Boccherini Institute, in Piazza Suffragio, Anfiteatro, Piazza Cittadella, Loggia Palazzo Pretorio, etc.

10am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Trombone Masterclass.

9pm, Lucca, Piazza Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Open Concert. Trio Maffei (piano, violin, cello), celebrating 250 years from Beethoven’s birth.

285pm, Lucca, Dance Meeting. Over 1000 dancers from around the world will be performing throughout town, often with musicians from the Boccherini Institute, in Piazza Suffragio, Anfiteatro, Piazza Cittadella, Loggia Palazzo Pretorio, etc.



1810am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Guitar Masterclass.


209pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Si nota all’imbrunire. Prose theatre.


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4pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Napoli Milionaria by Eduardo De Filippo, music by Nino Rota. See article on page 5.

Puccini e la Sua Musica concert. Reserve with Infoline: 391 4868088, www.vivaticket.it, www.teatropacini.it

4pm, Pescia, Teatro Pacini.

5.30pm, Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Sala Ferrario. Sentieri musicali. Presentation of the book Musica presente by critic Renzo Cresti. www.villabertelli.it

69pm, Lucca,

9pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Tango del Calcio di Rigore. by Neri Marcorè. www.teatrodelgiglio.it

199pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Swan Lake.

9.15pm , Pisa, Palazzo dei Congressi. Pisa University Orchestra performing Rimsky Korsakov’s Capriccio Espanol & other music. orchestra.unipi.it

1410am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Violin Masterclass.

9.15pm, Massarosa, Teatro Manzoni. Don Backy in concert, composer for famous singers such as Mina, Celentano, Milva.

8.30pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Napoli Milionaria by Eduardo De Filippo, music by Nino Rota. See article on page 5.

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10am to 6pm (generally), Lucca, Boccherini Institute, Piazza Suffragio. Guitar Masterclass.


224pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio. Si nota all’imbrunire. Prose theatre.


5.30pm, Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Sala Ferrario. Sentieri musicali. Chamber concert La voce del tempo, tra Barocco & Novecento. Soprano Cristina Martufi & pianist Luca Fialdini. www.villabertelli.it

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Teatro Alfieri. Dance Festival. For information, call 347 5217574.

294.30pm, Lucca, Dance Meeting Incursions. Over 1000 dancers from around the world will be performing throughout town, often with musicians from the Boccherini Institute, in Piazza Suffragio, Anfiteatro, Piazza Cittadella, Loggia Palazzo Pretorio, etc.


9pm, Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Sala Ferrario. Sentieri musicali. Recital, final Masterclass & concert by the project inCanto. www.villabertelli.it

The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and

reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment,

readers are advised to check information before setting off.

Music & TheatreMarch 2020

Mon Sunday Friday Thu Saturday Wed Tues79pm, Lucca, Piazza Suffragio Auditorium. Boccherini Open Concert with the Boccherini Orchestra directed by GianPaolo Mazzoli. Musica Ritrovata: from San Petronio to San Martino. Giuseppe Maria Carretti & his students Giacomo & Antonio Puccini. Concert organized by Animando.

5.30pm, Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Sala Ferrario. Sentieri musicali. Recital, Radici antiche del moderno: Bach to Fribbins, by Alberto Bologni (violin). www.villabertelli.it

�Teatro del Giglio: Les Nuits Barbares. See p. 24 of December/January Grapevine.�Lucca Classical Festival (AML): 24/25/26/27 April, 1/2/3 May.�

�Puccini e la Sua Musica concert season at Pescia’s Teatro Pacini. 12 April, 17 May, 7 June. Reserve with Infoline: 391 4868088, www.vivaticket.it, www.teatropacini.it

�Lucca Summer Festival 2020 features Paul McCartney 13 June, Ben Harper 17 July, Yusuf Cat Stevens 18 July, Paolo Conte 24 July, Noel Gallagher 28 June, Lynyrd Skynyrd 4 July, Celine Dion 25 July, Patti Smith and her Band 27 July Stay tuned for more musical artists!

�Lucca, Sky Stone & Songs, Piazza Napoleone 22, 9.30pm. Friday I’m in Love, Musical Encounters (from March to June). Donovan, Leonard Cohen, Tool, Hanoi Rocks, PJ Harvey, Bob Dylan, Brian Eno. Free admission.

�Lucca, Pinturicchio Music Festival, Via Borgo Giannotti 127. Sala della Cultura. www.ilpinturicchio.it, Tel. 0583 429066/429167. Continuing on 2 May & 20 June.

Capannori, Artè Theatre, Via Carlo Piaggio. Tribute to Lucio Battisti. 9.15pm, 8 April.

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David Heyes

Exhibitions,

March 2020

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020 12 13Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

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APRILFIRST

26 27 28OPENING:

Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Palazzo delle

Esposizioni, Piazza San Martino 7. Discoveries regarding Matteo Civitali. Until 20 June 2020. See article on page 11.

8OPENING (5pm): Lucca,

Pisa,

Ammodonostro Restaurant, Via della Fratta 22. Gianfalco Masini, Improbabili dialoghi. Vernissage with art critic Nicola Micieli & curator Marzia Martelli, with the patrocinio of Ugo Guidi Museum. Until 5 April 2020.

LAST DAY: Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Simon Vouet & the portrait of Artemisia Lomi Gentileschi. Hours: Tuesdays to Fridays 10am to 7pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 8pm. €3/€2.

15LAST DAY: Lucca,

Viareggio,

LuCCA Museum Lounge & Underground. Modern Ilaria, present & past by Robert Baronti. Admission free.

LAST DAY: GAMC Museum of Modern Art. Festa – Enrico Coveri Art Collection. Coveri was a collaborator of Warhol, Haring, Guttoso....

1LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Firenze,

Porcari,

Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Picasso, L’altra metà del cielo. Photography by Edward Quinn. Open daily (except Wed.) 9am to 7pm. €10, €6, under 17 free. www.palazzomediciriccardi.it

Fondazione Lazzareschi, Palazzo di Vetro. Piazza Felice Orsi. Nicola Pierotti, Io non son nessuno. Personal exhibit. Tel. 0583 298163.

2 3Florence,LAST DAY: Uffizi Gallery, Aula

Magliabechiana. Pietro Aretino.ONE DAY ONLY (9.15pm):

OPENING (9.15pm):

Lucca,

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

Cinema Astra, Paper-man, Beyond Boundaries. James Lake (film), winner of 2018 Cartasia.

, Circolo Fotocine Garfagnana, Villaggio UNRRA, 44. Speleoclub Garfagnana. Photography in grotta. Tel. 328 2236036,www.fotocinegarfagnana.it

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129 10

22LAST DAY:

Florence, Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. Enigma Pinocchio. Da Giacometti a LaChapelle. 10am to 7pm. €10. Tel. 055 20066233.

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Saturday Wed Thu TuesMon

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Friday Sunday

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ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:Lucca,

Forlì,

Carrara,Pietrasanta,

Lucca,

Viareggio, Marlia

Viareggio,

Lucca, Pontedera,

(Capannori), Villa Reale, Via Fraga Alta 2. Beginning 1 March, Villa Guinigi Museum, Via della Quarquonia. Museum Elisa Bonaparte’s apartments, chapel, & restored park will be open

hours: Tuesdays to Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. Tel. 0583 San Domenico Museums. Ulisse, L’Arte & il Mito. 15 to the public. For more information, tel. 0583 30108, 3886508721, or 496033. On 7 December, free admission to the national museums February to 21 June 2020.email [email protected](Villa Guinigi & Palazzo Mansi). #iovadoalmuseo

Carrara & Michelangelo Museum, Villa Fabbricotti. Parco della Padule, Via

LuCCA Museum, Via della Fratta 36. Storie del Novecento Sorgnano 42. Canova, Il Viaggio a Carrara.

in Toscana: Soffici, Viani, Rosai, Maccari, Marcucci, Venturi: Until 10 June 2020. Hours: Tues to Wed

from the return to order to the conquest of “disorder”. Until 31 9.30am to 12.30, Thurs to Sun 9.30am to

May 2020. See article in February Grapevine. 12.30 & 3pm to 7pm. Tel. 335 1047450.

Olio su Tavola, Via del Battistero 38. Silvia Tuccimei, PALP Palazzo Pretorio, Piazza Dignitas Terrae. Interactive exhibit of Trompe l’Oeil. Free Curtatone & Montanara 1. Arcadia & admission. Tuesday to Saturday 10am to noon, 5pm to midnight. Apocalisse, Italian landscapes in 150 Sunday 5pm to midnight. Until 19 April. Info: 0583 491104. years of art, photography, videos &

installations. Until 26 April 2020.www.oliosutavola.com

Tambuca Casa dell’Arte. 2nd edition of Pescatori di porte international painting & decoration competition. Deadline 19 April 2020. www.tambucaversilia.it

M. Rosi Public Library. Permanent exhibition “Picasso-Duncan”. 50 photographs of Picasso donated by photographer Davis Douglas Duncan.

Carnival Museum. Via Santa Maria Goretti 5. History of cartapesta (paper mâche), art projects, laboratories for children. Open 18 Sept. to 31 May from Wednesday to Sunday 3pm to 7pm, also Sat. 9am to 1pm. Open 1 June to 15 Sept. from Wednesday to Sunday 9am to 1pm, also Sat. 3-7pm. Admission €3 (€2, reduced), free for children up to 11 years old. Tel. 342 9207959.

21ONE DAY (5pm): Lucca, Oratory of San Giuseppe. On the occasion of the 950th anniversary celebrations of the Cathedral of Lucca, Il portico di San Martino e il colore nella scultura romanica. Free Conference.www.museocattedralelucca.it

ExhibitionsMarch 2020

5 6OPENING (noon): Florence,

.

Ramon Cotarelo Crego. Until 5 April. See page 9.

Limonaia di Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Via Cavour, 1 Peterson-Lavine’s COME AS YOU ARE, Kurt Cobain and the Grunge Revolution.

OPENING:

Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza San Martino 7.

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ONE DAY (3.30pm):

ONE DAY (5pm):

Lucca,

Lucca,

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Auditorium of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza San Martino 7. Conference regarding an unknown work by Matteo Civitali, Il Salvator Coronatus. Restoration by Lo Studiolo snc. Exhibit, 28 March to 20 June 2020. See article on page 11.

Fondazione Ragghianti. On the occasion of the 950th anniversary celebrations of the Cathedral of Lucca, La decorazione medievale scultorea del San Martino: alcuni casi esemplari. Free Conference. www.museocattedralelucca.it

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WORTH THE TRIP:

? Federico Fellini & Alberto Sordi, 9 April to 3 May? Inside & Outside the Walls, photography & associated events, 19 April to 3 May ? Chini Manufacturing & Liberty Style in Italy, 11 May to 7 June? San Martino in Lucca, Stories of a Cathedral in photography, 12 June to 2 August? Bruno Vangelisti: for Lucca, 4 September to 4 October? Ivory Coast artist Frederic B. Brouabé, 9 to 25 October? Illustrations for Lucca Comics & Games, late October-early November? Roberto Altmann. Policromia/ Poliritmia, 6 November to 6 December? Sigismondi & Guidotti, 12 December 2020 to 7 February 2021

Upcoming exhibits, Palazzo delle Esposizioni,

Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca:

Lunardi Villa Reale

Silvia Tuccimei - Dignitas Terrae

James Lake

Civitali

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

Vote,

America!

Cruciwordby Helen Askham

February solution

Discoveries regarding Matteo Civitali

The Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca will host an important exhibition revealing some discoveries about Matteo Civitali (1436-1502), from 28 March to 20 June 2020. In anticipation of

this exhibition, on 7 March Valentino Anselmi, art historian at the Lucca and Massa Carrara Soprintendenza ABAP (Archaeologia, Belle Arti e Paesaggi – Archaeology, Fine Arts and Landscapes), together with Diagnostician Thierry Radelet, the Restorers, and Carabinieri from Rome, will discuss his findings with Foundation president Oriano Landucci and with the public. Anselmi is the curator of the exhibition, which was developed in synergy with the Tuscany Museum Complex at the Villa Guinigi Museum.

The Banca del Monte di Lucca Foundation aims, as part of its the statutory purposes, to recover, preserve and enhance the art and culture of the region For this reason, the Foundation has welcomed this initiative with enthusiasm. The Foundation decided to finance the restoration of the sculpture depicting a bust of Christ with the crown of thorns (Salvator Coronatus), based on a project authorized by the Superintendency. The exhibition will show discoveries that emerged from the investigations, and will promote the recognition and restoration of Matteo Civitali's unknown works, comparing them to other works by the sculptor and to some Italian and Flemish art.

Matteo Civitali was an architect and engineer as well as a sculptor. He is best known to the people of Lucca for the little temple (tempietto) in San Martino Cathedral, made by him in 1484 to house the precious Volto Santo. Another beautiful and tender sculpture, of the Madonna and Child, is at the Guinigi Museum. Those who live in Lucca pass by his statue in the Loggia Pretoriale at Piazza San Michele (made by Arnaldo Fazzi) almost daily, perhaps without giving him much thought.

According to Treccani Encyclopedia, Civitali and his wife Elisabetta dei Gelli had four sons, one of whom became a sculptor, and five daughters, three of whom died of the plague in 1480. In 1498 he married a second time, with Isabetta de' Cordelari from Camaiore, and moved with his family to Carrara. He died in Lucca on 12 October 1501 and was interred in the Church of San Cristoforo.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 202014 11Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020

ACROSS1 Parolacce (5-5)8 Matrimonio (7)9 Maestro indù di religione (5)10 Stato del primo voto (4)11 Mute for a trumpet (4)12 Abolition of Hunting League (3)14 Eduardo (6)16 Pipi (3-3)18 Gufo (3)19 Scolaro sgobbone, nel UK (4)20 Terra di cowboys (4)23 Cipiglio (5)24 Tempo (7)25 Fragola (10)

DOWN2 Vedova (5)3 Air (4)4 American tent,

tenda americana (6)5 Dichiarato di nuovo (8)6 Rondine (7)7 Carabina, ha vinto l’Ovest (10)8 Casa Bianca (5,5)13 Lottatore (8)15 Salici (7)17 Bau (3-3)21 Etere (5)22 Onda (4)

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V I A R E G G I N AN A R N S F

M U F F I T A F E S T AA U N S U U NL E N T E S O T E R I CE R O U D YD U L L E R F R I E N DU U V S E RC O N F E T T I E F F EA A L A A L ST O T A L R I B B O N SO I E N L A

C A R T A P E S T A

Viale San Concordio, 710 - 55100 Lucca, Italy Tel: +39 0583 316636 - [email protected]

www.vannuccieassociati.it

Our membership in a Top 20 international accounting network means we can help any client set up or grow their business internationally.

mgi vannucci & associatiCHARTERED ACCOUNTANTS & TAX ADVISORS

closed Sunday eveningand Monday

Via della Cervia - LUCCATel. 0583 55881

Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it

[email protected]

trilingual (French, English, Italian), for private & public engagements, lessons.

[email protected]. 333 8617962

HARPIST

Presentation of the Discoveries, 3.30pm, 7 March 2020at the Auditorium of Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

The exhibition, organized by the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca and Lucca Sviluppo,

is being held at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, piazza San Martino 7. Tuesdays to Sundays 3.30pm to 7.30pm, 28 March to 20 June 2020.

Free admission. Information: www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it

Also visible at

www.luccagrapevine.com

PROPERTIES FOR SALE by ownerFor more information: [email protected]

Bagni di Lucca

(Fornoli)

Conveniently located near the train station, 2 bedroom ground floor apartment with large kitchen, sit t ing/dining room, large bathroom, cantina & utility room. 120sqm. €120,000 negotiable. APE Cl. G. (Ref. 1219)

Bagni di Lucca Villa

Spacious workshop for creative projects (former photographer's studio), with luminous indoor/outdoor spaces. Covered terrace for outdoor meals or projects. Adjacent to this a 110sqm first-floor apartment on the main street of town. Purchase one or both spaces. €330,000 total: €220,000 workshop, €110,000 apartment. (Ref. 1227)

COLOGNORA (UNESCO Village)

Beautifully restored home located in the middle of a friendly mountain village. Two bedrooms, one bathroom, large new kitchen, two living room areas, two fireplaces, and private garden. Chestnut beams and terra cotta floors. Only € 85,000. (Ref. 1232)


RIVERFRONT PROPERTY Ideal for fishermen & bathers, facing the Serchio River at the foot of the Brancoli hills. Early 1900s estate with traditional tile & parquet floors, fitted kitchen, marble stairs, wooden railings, etc. Can be a single home (5-6 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 floors) or 2 apartments (total 408 sqm). The large garden with trees & olives is bounded by a mule track & old stone wall. Terrace near the kitchen, ideal for dining al fresco. The house is separated from the road by a secure gate. Parking for 4-5 cars inside the property & along the river. € 370,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1179)

Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bed-rooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for stroll-ing through meadows & forest. Wheelchair access & large parking area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 595,000. By owner. (Ref. 1147)

Near Pescaglia/Loppeglia

Charming country house facing west (towards the sea). 130 mq. Plus adjacent house requiring complete restoration, also 130 mq. Each house has 3-4 bedrooms, 2 baths, 2 fireplaces. €170,000 for both. (Estimate €75,000+ for restoration). (Ref. 1243)

Bagni di Lucca. lovely modern apartment, ground floor, with parking space, garden. 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, living/dining/kitchen, storage room. approx. 70sqm. €142,000. Tel. 320 0879190. (Ref. 1237)

Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165,000. (Ref. 1188)

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Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 202016 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

HOLIDAYS, REMEMBRANCES

CONFERENCES

VILLAGE & TOWN EVENTS

CHILDREN (especially)

COMING UP

CINEMA

GRAPEVINE GROUPS & ACTIVITIES

Throughout Italy:

Festa della Donna, 8 March. In Lucca this year, celebrate at the Domus Romana.

On 31 March we return to daylight savings time. “Spring forward, fall back.”

Lucca, Teatro Artè, Capannori. d14 March, Giovannin

senza paura. Viaggio in Italia. from Fiabe italiane by

Italo Calvino (for children 6 to 11 years of age). €6 for adults, €4 fior children. Reservations: 392 340 9380.

Lucca, Teatro San Girolamo. Lucca Theatre Festival for children offers 9 performances at 9.45am from 17 to 31 March. Consult the webpage for details:www.teatrodelgiglio.it

Lucca Theatre Festival. January to March. Tel. 0583 465320. Scaratuja, 12-15 March at LuCCA Museum, Via della Fratta 36 (2.30pm on Thursday & Friday, 5pm Saturday, 3pm Sunday). For children 0-3 years old. Capuccetto Rosso (Little Red Riding Hood)

Senegalese. At Casa del Boia, Via dei Bacchettoni 10, 14 March 5pm. Free events, reserve at 347 7561235, 339 6300383, or [email protected]

Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio SPE. La

Gallinella Rossa. 15 March 3.30 & 5.30pm. La Bella &

la Bestia, 29 March 3.30pm. €5, €7. Tel. 0583 571125.

Friends of the English Bookshop. Book club. The book for 25 March is Birdsong by Sebastian Faulks. For more information contact Carolyn at 3384076568 or consult www.luccalit.it.

Bagni di Lucca Omaggio alla Donna. 5 March 9.15pm, Cosa dirà la gente (film) at the Betti Library (tel. 0583

Lucca, Biblioteca Statale, Via S. Maria Corteorlandini 12. 87619). 7 March 5.30pm, conversation with Ilaria del

Ovid’s Metamorfosi (Sermonti edition), readings. 2 & 9 Lucca, Piazza Napoleone, 5 to 8 March, 9am to 8pm. Bianco, president of Lucchesi nel Mondo Association: La March 2020 (last date). 5pm. Free admission. Mercatino Regionale Francese. Tel. 0583 47311. donna & l’emigrazione italiana. At the Betti Library. 8 www.amicidelmacchiavelli.it

March 6pm, Una donna per amico, homage to Lucio Camelias Festival, Battisti performed by OroNero Quartet.

Lucca, Pomeriggi Verdi at Casermetta San Regolo, Sant’Andrea and Pieve di above the Botanical Garden. 7 March 3.30pm, Compito, Capannori. Bagni di Lucca Villa, Soffitte in Strada, 29 March, Conoscenza & coltivazione degli agrumi. 28 March, Weekends 14-15, 21-22, 28- antiques & collectibles market. Alpi Apuane, Unique & unreplicable. Free admission, 29 March. Beautiful camellias tel. 0583 950118. FB/adipaluccathroughout the village, Pisa’s Medieval Birthday celebration, 25 March each

Japanese tea ceremony & year, with fireworks & boat races. Lucca, Domus Romana. Celebrating Women’s Day on other events. Free shuttle bus from the Frantoio Sociale del Compitese (Via di Tiglio, 609). Villa Reale is also open for visits, accessible by private auto. www.camelielucchesia.it

Lucca, Salone dell’Edilizia. Renovations & Building Fair. 6-7-8 March at Polo Fiere, Sorbano del Giudice. Free admission.

Lucca, Arte & Ingegno Market. 7-8 March. Via San 8 March with a tribute to women and recognition of Paolino, Piazza dei Cocomeri, Via di Poggio, Piazza women’s rights in Roman times.Cittadella.

Bagni di Lucca, Unitre, at the Betti Library. Mary Lucca, Twirling Championship, 8 March at Palatagliate,

Shelley, da Frankenstein a Valperga. Speaker, Emilia Via delle Tagliate II. 10am to 1pm. FB/twirlinglucca

Giorgetti. Fond. Culturale Michel de Montaigne.

Lucca, CreArt, Piazza San Giusto. 11-12 March 9am to 8pm. Handicrafts & foods market.

Easter, 12 April. On Pasquetta, Easter Monday, eggs are colored & thrown into the fields for children to find.Lucca, ChocoMoments, Piazza San Frediano 20-22

March 10am to 8pm. Cooking, tastings, laboratories for Lucca, Santa Zita flower show. Last week in April.children. Free admission. Tel. 348 7335157,

www.chocomoments.itLucca Città di Carta, 24 to 26 April.

Lucca, Festival delle Sintesi. Brevità intelligente. 19-23 Lucca Verde Mura 3-4-5 April. On the walls of Lucca, March. 13 encounters dedicated to tv, cinema, sport, Baluardo San Paolino & San Donato. 10am to 7pm. €5, science, literature, religion & architecture. Beginning 20 €7, free for children under 10. Tel. 366 4228615. March at 4pm, San Cristoforo Church. www.dilloinsintesi.it www.verdemura.it

Lucca, HopHop Street Food. 3-5 April, 10.30am to Lucca, Collezionando. 28-29 March at Polo Fiere, midnight. Piazzale Don Baroni, Via delle Tagliate. Florence, Odeon Cinema, original language films. Sorbano del Giudice Dedicated to the cartooning world. www.hophopstreetfood.comPiazza Strozzi. 055 214068, www.odeonfirenze.com

Barga Antiques Fair. 8 March. In the historic center. 2020 opera season at Torre del Lago:

Tosca 17/24 July, 2/21 August,Firenze, Festival of Discoveries, 20-22 March, in many La Bohème 1/9/22 Augustlocations: il complesso de Le Murate, il Cenacolo di Santa Turandot 18/31 July, 8/16 AugustLucca, English Mondays group at 4pm. Osteria dello Croce, la biblioteca delle Oblate, lo Spazio Alfieri, il Teatro Madama Butterfly 14/23 AugustStellario at Piazza San Francesco or Bar del Sole at Niccolini, il Museo Galileo, la Fondazione Scienza & Manon Lescaut 25 July/7AugustPiazza del Carmine. See the Facebook page to confirm Tecnica, Santa Maria Nuova, l'Osservatorio di Arcetri & lo In our 4th year of the Grapevine boat trip to the opera, the dates & locations.Ximeniano, l'Accademia La Colombaria, l'Officina “early bird” choice is for Turandot on 8 August. When we Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella & also Lucca, Drink, Speak & Share, language exchange reach 8 people (minimum), we will book that date. 120 bookstores, cinemas & theatres. For information: 055 234 group at LuccaLibri, Viale Regina Margherita, outside euro all-inclusive: a/c coach to and from Lucca, boat with 7273. Porta San Pietro. Wednesdays at 9pm. narrator & buffet crossing the lake, opera ticket, escort.

Pietrasanta (Querceta), Festa di San Giuseppe, 18-19 www.turismo.lucca.it & www.turismo.garfagnana.eu Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. Contact are other sources for events & tours.March. Typical sweet fritelle di riso (rice fritters). Paolo, 380 4358318 or email [email protected]

Camaiore cultural exchange: English/Italian speaking. Meetings, activities & aperitivi. Register on the website: CamaioreCulturalExchange.com

I Pupi di Stac

in neo-Gothic style, with fine Pre-Raphaelite art works such as the Charles's father named him Prince Regent. In 1744 Charles led an beautiful stencilling and decorations by leading English artists. A uprising to restore his father to his thrones in Britain, but was communion chalice by Holman Hunt was inscribed in the defeated and spent the rest of his life in exile. The Palazzo San memory of his wife, who died and was buried in Florence. In its Clemente, his home in Florence, still bears the Royal Stuart coat stem, he set her diamond wedding ring. St Mark's is an example of of arms on the wall inside the doorway. The Palazzo is now the the transference of ideas in art between England and Italy at the seat of Florence University's Architectural Faculty.end of the nineteenth century. The beautiful pre-Raphaelite Villa Colombaia, 2 via Santa Maria a Marignolle, is the paintings and font and altar reliefs are in fact largely by Italians, birthplace of Florence Nightingale. On the Villa's exterior there is such as Professor Giuseppe Catani Chiti, author of the a large plaque dedicated to her, written in Italian. She was born Annunciation and of St Michael and the dragon. there on 12 May 1820, and was named after the city of her birth.

Casa Guidi, 8 Piazza San Felice, was the home of the poets Known as the lady with the lamp for her nightly visits to wounded Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Robert Browning, who arrived in soldiers during the Crimean war, she is considered the founder of Florence as exiles in April 1847, after a romantic courtship and a professional nursing. The Villa is located on the immediate secret marriage in England in 1846. This was their home in outskirts of Florence, on a very steep hill.Florence until Elizabeth's death in 1861, and here they found inspiration for their best poetry. In the drawing room they entertained guests and Elizabeth wrote most of her works.

Palazzo Wilson-Gattai, 28 Piazza Massimo D'Azeglio, was built for the English-born artist Frederick Wilson (1828-1908). In the facade and the interior rooms of the noble flat, the typical English Romantic neo-Gothic style with Renaissance

motifs is evident. Wilson commissioned Annibale Gatti to decorate the ceiling of the main room. Today, the Palazzo offers luxury apartments for rental.

The English Cemetery in Piazza Donatello opened in 1827 and closed in 1877. It is the burial place of famous English poets such as Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Walter Savage Landor, and Arthur Hugh Clough.

Palazzo di San Clemente, 2 via Pier Antonio Micheli, was the home of Charles Edward Louis John Casimir Silvester Maria Stuart (1720-1788), exiled claimant to the thrones of England and Scotland. He was born in Rome, where his father had obtained a

– by Chiara Calabreseresidence from the Pope, and was brought up in Italy. In 1743,

Villa Colombaia, Florence Nightingale's birthplace

Florence Nightingale birthplace memorial tablet

San Clemente villaStuart crest

Casa Guidi green parlor

Palazzo Wilson Gattai - ceiling fresco by Annibale Gattai

19Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine March 2020 18

Walking on English Stones in Florence

death of her first husband. She then married a Catholic of lower lorence, due to its long-lasting connection with the rank, her Italian music teacher Gabriele Piozzi. They settled in English world, has over time become the seat of FF Florence in the Palazzo Ricasoli. Here she came in contact with the numerous places that connect it to the cultural, political, Accademia Della Crusca. With Giuseppe Parini, Ippolito literary and artistic life of Britain. Some are better known to the Pindemonte, and a group of British residents in Florence known as Anglo-American visitors and residents than others. the Della Cruscans, she worked on the compilation of The You can enjoy this walking tour by starting at Via Tornabuoni, Florence Miscellany, a collection of poems by English and Italian then following the order these places are mentioned in the article. authors. Her observations of Florentine life, in her memoir The first nine are in town, the next three are to the northeast, and Observations and Reflections Made in the Course of a Journey the last is on the southern hills.through France, Italy and Germany, were widely read in England.

Via De' Tornabuoni used to be the centre of English 20th century shops, tea houses, newspapers, travel agents and the British consulate office. The English and American Chemists, at number 97, is now a luxury brand shop, but the original sign is still visible on the exterior wall, as well as the shop sign reading Profumeria Inglese and the Royal Coat of Arms. However, some of the street's traditionally English places no longer exist. The tearoom Gran Caffè Doney, most favoured by the British living in Florence, closed in 1986. Violet Trefusis (1894-1972) used to go there. She was the daughter of King Edward VII's mistress, and an English author primarily remembered for her affair with poet Vita Sackville-West. The Caffè was also the scene of Fascist outbreaks against the English in 1935-36.

Casa Manetti, 23 via Santo Spirito, was the home of Horace Mann, the British diplomatic representative in Florence from 1737 until his death in 1786. Highly admired for his gentle manner, he kept an open house for British visitors at Palazzo Manetti, allowing them to sit around all morning reading the newspapers, and entertaining them with pleasant conversazione when there were no performances at the theatre.

Horne Museum and Foundation, 6 via Dei Benci. Herbert Percy Horne, English architect and art historian, bought the Palazzo to house his private collection of furniture and art. The Palazzo was built in 1490. Horne's bequest led to the opening of the Museum and Foundation in 1921. Since its first opening, the collection has expanded. The Museum includes a rich Archive and Library, and organises temporary exhibitions and educational activities.

Pensione Simi, inspiration for the Pension Bertolini in A

Room with a View, was at Lungarno delle Grazie. E. M. Forster Cinema Odeon, 2 piazza Strozzi, was inaugurated on 14 (1879-1970) stayed in this area during his time in Florence when

December 1922. The Cinema was built from the interior of an he arrived with his mother in the autumn of 1901. They first important Renaissance building, the Palazzo Strozzino. The stayed at the Albergo Bonciani (17 property had been purchased in 1919 by the Italian-American Via de' Panzani), before moving to Cinema Society. It was one of the first movie theatres in Italy and the Pensione Simi, where they one of the most beautiful, with its outstanding Art Nouveau stayed for six weeks. The Simi exterior and interior still visible. The cinema is still a point of overlooked the river and provided reference, as it shows mother-tongue movies. the writer with inspiration for the

Palazzo Masetti, 2 Lungarno Corsini, was the home of Pension Bertolini in his 1908 novel. Princess Louise Stolberg (1752-1824), countess of Albany and Although Pensione Simi no longer wife of Charles Edward Stuart. Charles was the Jacobite exists, the Albergo Bonciani is still claimant to the English and Scottish thrones. Louise lived in this in business.Palazzo overlooking the Arno with her lover, the Italian poet St Mark's Anglican Church, Vittorio Alfieri. It was the last home to the British Consulate until 16/18 Via Maggio, opened its doors it closed in 2011 and now is a luxury hotel facility. in 1881. The interior was decorated

Palazzo Ricasoli, Piazza Goldoni. Hester Thrale (1741-1821) scandalised English society by having an affair after the

Art Nouveau style Odeon Cinema in Florence

English pharmacy in via de' Tornabuoni, fragment of the decor

Palazzo Manetti – British gentlemen at Sir Thomas Mann's home in Florence (circa 1765)

St Mark's English Church. Annunciation by Giuseppe Catani Chiti, Pre-Raphaelite style

You Can Do This!Italian license. I learned that the theory exam consists of 40

about my life in Italy, I hear comments about how computer generated test questions from a collection of 7,000 “lucky” I am, or I am “living the good life.” I would possible questions. To pass, at least 36 questions must be agree with the “good life” comments, but “lucky?” answered correctly. All questions are in Italian and many WW

I think luck has had little to do with it. I have worked really hard to questions resemble a short story. At the end of the little story, you make this transition successful. I've dealt with language are asked to respond to a particular situation. Again, all in Italian. challenges, the questura, getting a permesso, establishing (The exam can be taken in German or French in certain residency, dealing with electricians, plumbers, and the crazy cell circumstances.) The level of seemingly unnecessary detail was to phone companies. Then, after deciding to buy a car, it became my thinking beyond silly. My sense of doom was getting higher.clear that I had to get an Italian driver's license. I never imagined it My next challenge was to interview driving schools around could be so complicated. But, despite the challenges, I have an town. I met many wonderful instructors who were engaging and Italian license proudly tucked in my wallet! helpful. None spoke English. I fully understand that it is my

Italy has an agreement with many countries that allows you to obligation to deal with language issues now that I live in Italy. Just drive with your home country license, or to swap out your former the same, I was more than a little concerned that language barriers home license for an Italian license. Expats who have a valid EU could be a huge hurdle for me in this particular endeavor.driver's license can drive in Italy without restriction and do not A friend recommended the Autoscuola di Rossini, owned by need to convert the license into an Italian license unless they prefer Elena Black. Elena is California born and fluent in English. Many to do so. EU expats will need to renew the license after two years native English speakers have attended her school over the years. of moving to Italy. They will also need an international driving She helps these folks, and thankfully me, navigate the language permit (IDP). This agreement is in place with EU countries as well and concepts surrounding the test. Even with her help, preparing as countries in other seemingly random spots around the globe. for the test was no small task. I attended school three days a week The United States, Canada or Australia, just to name a few for nearly four months. Toward the end, I studied at home multiple countries, are not part of such an agreement. As a result, after one hours each day. The week before the test I rarely looked up from year of living in Italy, an American, Canadian or Australian license my study materials. Ultimately I passed the theory test on my first is no longer valid for driving in Italy. try. I was so filled with joy that tears were running down my

In February, my husband Jim and I decided a car was a cheeks. But, there was more.necessity. We purchased a sporty Fiat Tipo and started exploring A new driver must complete a minimum of six hours of the Tuscan countryside. At the same time, I began to research what driving instruction prior to taking the driving exam. Even though I I needed to do to drive legally in Italy. You can find a wealth of have had a driver's license for more than 50 years, there are information on the internet as well as online expat discussion nuances of driving in Italy that I could learn only through the groups. Some of this is accurate. Much is not. Bottom line, if you instruction received in the lessons. Who knew there were rules of live in Italy and plan to be here for more than a year, and you want the road in a traffic rotary? Who knew that there were actual speed to drive a car - either your personal vehicle or a rental - you need an limits on Italian roads? I have to admit, the time spent in driving Italian license. school was valuable. My instructor helped me correct some bad

If you are only in Italy short term, in and out for brief periods driving habits. As a result I believe I am a better driver. And, I of time or for less than a year, then you can drive with your license discovered some great little neighborhoods on back roads.from your country of residence. However, in addition you need to So, if you think you are in the category of those who need an have an international driving permit to accompany your regular Italian driver's license, what should you do? First, find a driving license. I know many of us have driven in Italy on vacations for school. If you are not fluent in Italian, I recommend a school with years without this permit. Most car rental companies never ask for bilingual instructors. In Lucca, that would be Autoscuola di Rossini. it, and sometimes even an officer at a traffic stop may not ask for it. Via Dante Alighieri, 335/d, 55100 Lucca LU, tel. 328 7274930.But, there are ample stories of individuals receiving sizable fines Second, approach the classes and studying seriously. In for driving in Italy without it. If you have an accident without an addition to the school’s resources, online resources will expand international driving permit, your rental car insurance may your knowledge of the questions. One online site that I found become void. So why take the chance? It’s easy to obtain and not particularly helpful is: www.quizpatenteonline.it This site expensive. The easiest way to obtain the permit is to get it prior to provides timed sample tests where you can evaluate your arriving in Italy. Most are valid for a year. It is also possible to strengths and weaknesses. obtain the license through the mail with organizations like the Third, be prepared to spend some money. Driving school is American Automobile Association. You will find the process a bit not cheap. There are fees associated with the school as well as fees more complicated by mail and the costs will be higher. to the examining authority. The costs will differ with each

The international driving permit will allow your home individual. Mine were approximately 700 Euro. It is just another country license to be a legal license in Italy for one year after your financial hurdle that must be jumped in order to live here.official landing in Italy. For most people, that would be the date on My new Italian driver's license is one of my most prized your permesso or carta d’identità. My carta d’identità has an possessions. Don't let the scary stories of others keep you from official start date of January, 2019. Therefore, I had until January obtaining the license. I now believe that most people who take the 2020 to complete this task. tests actually pass. It is a matter of navigating yet another Italian

After talking with expats and local Italians about the Italian bureaucracy. We became experts by living here. When you see a driving license, I feared I would never succeed in obtaining one. I driver in a sporty Fiat Tipo zipping through a rotary while properly was told that few ever pass the exam, and the failure rate is high using a turn signal or obeying the speed limits, that driver could be even among native Italians. My sense of doom was high. Jim only me. Wave. supplied me with an assortment of books about obtaining an – by Rod Daniel

hen chatting with friends back in the United States


Pisan plain

Medici Aqueduct

Getting an Italian Driver's License

They have been designated as symbols of the

moon (rather than the cow who flew over it) and Tlistening. Their long sensitive ears quiver at the

slightest sound. In March they start looking out for mates,

and boxing away in the age-old manner. Who's gonna get the

girl?

Well let's have another look at that. The accepted

wisdom was that two male hares boxed in order to prove

who'd be the best mate. But no, it seems females (the does)

also box (how empowering is that!), to discourage over-

enthusiastic males…. Does push back.

When Yeats visited his friend Ezra Pound in Rapallo, he

must have seen the fleeting shapes left by hares in the grass

as he tramped the mountains around and above Rapallo and

wrote his famous lines about the frail and fleeting memory

we all possess, and the women he personally had known:

One had a pretty face and two or three had charm.

But charm and face were in vain,

Because the mountain grass cannot but keep

the form where the mountain hare has lain.

The imprint remains…. We all remember, and the imprints

do indeed remain.

Contradictions and paradoxes abound. We have good

old Aesop's tale about the tortoise and the hare. It was the

slow old tortoise who 'won the race' in the end. The race is

not always to the swift. And why? Hare in his contemptuous

way settled down for a nap mid race.The slow old tortoise

lumbered by, did not wake up his adversary, and won the

race. The tortoise had the smarts, and was ' . Speed

isn't always the solution.

Perhaps one of the best known hares was the one who

graced the Mad Hatters Tea-table in Lewis Carroll's Alice in

Wonderland…

There was a table set out under a tree in front of the

house, and the March Hare and the Hatter were

having tea at it.... “No room! No room!” they cried

out when they saw Alice coming.... “Have some

wine,” the March Hare said in an encouraging

tone. Alice looked all round the table, but there was

nothing on it but tea. “I don't see any wine,” she

remarked. “There isn't any,” said the March Hare.

“Then it wasn't very civil of you to offer it,” said

Alice angrily. “It wasn't very civil of you to sit down

without being invited,” said the March Hare.

Well, he was fairly uncivilised! So take your pick: hare as

swift symbol of rebirth and resurrection, or hare as symbol

of going far too fast or even being downright rude…

Tuscan hares' coats turn white to match the winter snow.

Hares don't burrow under the ground like rabbits, but rest

and even have their baby leverets in the forms that Yeats saw,

little depressions in the grass. And unlike helpless baby Mouth-watering indeed, or so meat-eaters say. But as the number of hares dwindles, maybe one day there will be complete protection for rabbits, leverets can be up and off soon after they are born. them in Italy (as in the UK). Not yet…. Rebirth and resurrection hover, Tuscan Arctic hares live for about 18 months, and their but nothing is certain in this fleeting world.close cousins the scrub hares can live up to five years. That's

IF they manage to survive the hunters. They are protected – by Judith Edwardsduring their breeding season, but then its all hands on the [email protected] to bag the hare that makes a delicious Tuscan dish. www.judithedwards.co.uk

uscan hares hare along at speeds of up to 70 kph.

awake'

Hare ragù with

pappardelle

Vegans and vegetarians look away now please, as

meat eaters savour a dish that makes you want to lick your

moustaches, metaphorical or otherwise. As the Tuscan

saying goes, un piatto da leccarsi i baffi. If there were a

classic hare recipe, a dish that everyone has eaten,

especially those born and bred in Tuscany, you could

make a case for this one: Tuscan hare ragù with fresh

pappardelle pasta.

The dish is well within the canon of Tuscan cuisine.

Never heard of it? We English speakers call it jugged hare. Hares are larger, smarter, faster – and in the kitchen

(be warned) tougher – than any species of rabbit. As

always, use this recipe as a guide rather than something to

follow slavishly.

Ingredients:

1. In a large pot stir-fry the chopped carrot, onion, and

celery, then add the trunk and shoulders of the hare, cut

into pieces, with lungs and heart (not the liver yet)

chopped.

2. Allow all this to gain flavour, then pour in some wine,

allowing the wine to evaporate.

3. Add the tomato sauce and the milk.

4. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Cook, adding a little warm water if necessary. (And

remembering the advice about toughness, taste as you go

along).

6. Remove the hare pieces from the pot, chop them

together with the liver, place everything back over the

heat, and cook for five minutes.

7. Cook the pappardelle in salted boiling water and drain al dente, then dress with this sauce.

8. Sprinkle with grated cheese once served.

Watch out for your moustaches….


Altri Tempi, Anni Fa ... Hare ragù with pappardelle

1 hare ½ cup red wine

1 lb pappardelle, fresh ½ cup milk

if you can... 1 tablespoon tomato sauce

1 carrot extra virgin olive oil

½ onion grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

1 stalk celery salt and pepper

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

LESSONS & COURSES

Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 0583 316636 - fax: +39 0583 419451 [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103)

Accountant and Auditor Dott Paola Girolami (University of Pisa and Bristol U.K.). Via Delle Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel +39 0583 471734, fax + 39 0583 471751 [email protected] - www.studiocommercialistagirolami.it English/French/Italian.

Dental Surgeon Dr Rogier Staal, University of Amsterdam. Amsterdam Dental Studio, Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel 0583 953633. Dutch/English/French/German/ Italian. email: [email protected]

Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 492853.

Dental Surgeon and Dentist Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini. Studio Odontostomatologico Martini, Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, email: [email protected]

Lawyer Daria Mariani (English spoken). VISA, permesso di soggiorno, rental contracts, purchasing houses, EN translation of deeds, assistance before the Notary Public. [email protected] (Ref. 1191)

Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo works with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Lawyer Enrico Lattanzi. Viale Giacomo Puccini n°75, Lucca. Tel. (+39) 0583 584981, fax (+39) 0583 316172, cell. (+39) 347 [email protected], www.lawfirminitaly.com (Ref. 1204)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 817)

Landscape design & Garden maintenance. Call Tommaso at cell. 349 284 5399 or email [email protected] www.luccalandscape.it (Ref. 572)

Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

Learn Italian while having fun: individual and group lessons with a qualified teacher of Italian to foreigners. Culture, conversation, Italian grammar and a good coffee! First les-son for free. S. Filippo area but possibility of meeting also in the historical center. For in-formation: Tania Luciani, 328/6861335. [email protected] (Ref. 1244)

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group les-sons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting assistance with relocat-ing. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)

UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)

Retired Scottish woman looking for reliable person to share flat in San Concordio area from March to end of June 2020. 250 euros per month. I would also consider renting a room in a house for similar cost and can help childminding/pet care/help with learning English. contact: [email protected] (Ref. 1245)

For sale: 54 volume set of the “Great Books of the Western World” in English. 3 Introductory volumes & 51 volumes from Homer to Freud. Excellent condition. Price €100. Email: [email protected] (Ref. 1246)

VARIOUS

U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY

Alexander v.Pinoci PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)

email: [email protected] pec: [email protected]

Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/

Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719

Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508

cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949

Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements

and assumes no responsibility for their content.

Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde

To advertise, please use the form on our webpage or send us an email at: [email protected]

See also Properties for Sale on pages 4, 8, 17.

Classified Advertisements Also visible at

www.luccagrapevine.com

TRITI REMOVALS AND STORAGEVia Don Emilio Angeli (già Via Stradone), 176

Segromigno in Piano, LuccaMondays to Saturdays 8am to 8pm

Tel. 0583 927945

[email protected]


FOR RENT

In the heart of Lucca Centro Storico, for long-term rental, two apartments: 65 sqm €900/month or 150 sqm €1500/month. Few stairs. Agency fee of one month's rent. Contact Grapevine for more information. (Ref. 1248)


located in high-danger seismic zones (zones 1 and 2) and in lower renovate your home? Update it to the anti-seismic risk areas (zone 3) identified by'OPCM n. 3274/2003.Hregulation? Make changes in your garden? In this article LIMITS: expenses up to a maximum of €96,000

you will find a complete presentation of the bonuses available in % DEDUCTION: The deduction of 50% of expenses must be Italy this year, 2020, along with a detailed list of the requirements divided into 5 equal annual instalments. When the intervention and ways of using these. This will allow you to have a tax results in a reduction of seismic risk leading to transition to a deduction of 50% to 80% depending on the requirements met. The lower risk class, the tax deduction is 70% of the expenditure tax deduction will be dispensed through reimbursements to be incurred. For transition to the two lower risk classes, the tax discounted from future taxes, in several annual rates. deduction is 80% of the expenditure incurred.

One of Studio Vannucci's clients, for example, carried out METHODS OF PAYMENT: The expenses must be paid by renovation works on his home amounting to €60,000 and he “dedicated” transfer showing the beneficiary's tax number, the acquired €10,000 of furniture. He can use both the Restructuring reason for the payment, and P.IVA or CF of the person in favour of bonus and the Furniture bonus, obtaining a total deduction of whom the transfer is made.€35,000 (50% of € 70,000), discounting this from future taxes, in Documentation for the Income Statement:10 annual instalments of €3,500 per year. �Attestation by a technician of the building unit's risk class

before the intervention and attestation of the intervention's RESTRUCTURING BONUS conformity to the submitted project.

WHAT IT IS: Bonus for extraordinary maintenance, restoration �invoices and tax receipts relating to expenses actually incurredand renovation of the building unit. �payment transfer receipts.LIMITS: expenses up to a maximum of €96,000 FURNITURE BONUS% DEDUCTION: The deduction of 50% of the expenses must be WHAT IT IS: Bonus for the purchase of new furniture and divided into 10 equal annual instalments. household appliances (energy class not less than A+)METHODS OF PAYMENT: Bank transfer to the supplier, with a CONDITIONS FOR ENTITLEMENT TO THE DEDUCTION: specific indication: Bonifico relativo a lavori edilizi che danno having carried out the renovation of the building unit included in diritto alla detrazione prevista dall'articolo 16-bis del Dpr the RESTRUCTURING BONUS no earlier than 2019.917/1986. Pagamento fattura n. ___ del___ a favore di ___ LIMITS: expenses up to a maximum of €10,000partita Iva ___C.f. beneficiario detrazione. % DEDUCTION: The deduction of 50% of the expenses must be Documentation for the Income Statement: divided into 10 equal annual instalments �Administrative documents regarding the type of work to be METHODS OF PAYMENT: expenses can be paid by bank carried out (concession, authorization or communication of transfer, credit card, debit card or financing commencement of works). If these documents are not provided, a Documentation for the Income Statement:substitutive declaration confirming the start date of the works �invoices and tax receipts relating to expenses actually incurredmust be provided, to certify that the building renovation �payment receipts.interventions put in place are among those that can be facilitated. FACADES BONUS�invoices and tax receipts relating to expenses actually incurred WHAT IT IS: Bonus for interventions aimed at the recovery/ �payment transfer receipts. restoration of existing buildings' external facades (including

ECO-BONUS painting, restoration of gutters, etc.)WHAT IT IS: Bonus for energy redevelopment measures, such as CONDITIONS FOR ENTITLEMENT TO THE DEDUCTION: reducing energy requirements for heating, improving the buildings in areas of artistic and historical interest or with a building's heating system (insulation, floor and window systems), territorial density not less than 1,5 mc/mq (ZONE A and B installation of solar panels, winter heating systems. identified by D.M. 02/04/1968 n. 14.444).LIMITS: Spending limits for energy saving measures vary LIMITS: no limitsaccording to the type of intervention: from €30,000 (heating and % DEDUCTION: The deduction of 90% of the expenses must be air conditioning systems) to €60,000 (envelope: solar systems / divided into 10 equal annual instalments window replacement) up to €100.000 (most relevant interventions METHODS OF PAYMENT: the expenses must be paid by on the whole property), “dedicated” bank transfer showing the deduction beneficiary's tax % DEDUCTION: The deduction varies according to the type of number, the reason for the payment, P.IVA or CF of payment's intervention, from 50% to 65%, and must be divided into 10 beneficiary.equal annual instalments. Documentation for the Income Statement:METHODS OF PAYMENT: Bank transfer to the supplier with a �invoices and tax receipts relating to the expenses actually specific indication: Bonifico relativo a riqualificazione incurredenergetica (articolo 1, commi 344-347, legge 296 / 2006. – �payment transfer bank receipts.Pagamento fattura n. ___ del___ a favore di ___ partita Iva GREEN BONUS___CF beneficiario detrazione_________”. WHAT IT IS: Bonus for interventions on green uncovered private Documentation for the Income Statement: areas of existing buildings and irrigation systems, and To take advantage of the deduction it is necessary to make an online construction of wells, green roofs, and roof gardens.communication to Enea (Italian agency for research and LIMITS: expenses up to a maximum of €5,000 development involving nuclear and alternative energies) about the % DEDUCTION: The deduction of 36% of the expenses must be work carried out, with an engineer certification verifying the divided into 10 equal annual instalments compliance of the intervention with the legal requirements. METHODS OF PAYMENT: bank transfer�invoices and tax receipts relating to expenses actually incurred Documentation for the Income Statement:�payment transfer receipts. �invoices and tax receipts relating to expenses actually incurred

ANTI- SEISMIC BONUS �payment transfer bank receiptsWHAT IT IS: Bonus for renovation interventions through the For further information or consultation, contact us at

https://www.vannuccieassociati.it or at MGI Vannucci & Associati Studio, Luccaadoption of earthquake anti-seismic measures on buildings

ave you long been wishing that you could rebuild or

Taxes in Italy: deductions for renovation works

about 20 minutes east of Lucca, to enjoy a wine-tasting lunch at the Fattoria Enzo OCarmignani, property of Elena Carmignani. After passing through the fragrant limonaia, where the plants were still being sheltered while waiting for spring, we arrived in a room full of large steel vats and Elena began telling us about her winemaking life.

When still young, she decided to go to an important competition in Siena to present her own wines. At that time women were not well accepted in the business, but to everyone's surprise Elena's wine won first prize, and she decided to make this her life's work. We saw where she stored the wine in wooden barrels imported from France, and she explained that she sought out different kinds of wood depending on the variety of wine. From shadow into light, we then walked out into the hilly fields to see the young plants, that would become green and mature, to be harvested at the vendemmia in September.

Elena guided our tasting of several bottles and explained how they matched with different kinds of foods, and with the olive oil which is also a point of pride in Lucca. From a fresh fruity white wine, followed by the red Theorema (made as an experiment in mixing various varieties of grapes), some others, then the dessert wine Aleatico, we each had our favorites.

It was a short drive around the hill town of Montecarlo, known in the 1300s as Vivinaia (the wine road), to reach the giant oak. This tree is said to have inspired Collodi for the chapter in which Pinocchio is overcome by bandits who hang him from the tree head-down, so they can take the coins that spill from his pockets. (The original book written in 1883 has some rather aggressive undercurrents.)

Pleasantly dazed by the wine tasting, we engaged in some silliness and awe before returning to the real world.

n Valentine's Day our international group made its way to the Montecarlo countryside,

Montecarlo Wine Tasting

march 2020 gg tuscany’s rraappeevviinnee€ 2

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