baluchar sari is a type of sari,
TRANSCRIPT
BULUCHARI SILK SAREES
• Baluchar Sari is a type of sari, a garment worn by women across India and Bangladesh. This particular type of sari originated in Bengal and is known for depictions of mythological scenes on the pallu of the sari. It is mainly produced in Murshidabad and producing one sari takes approximately one week or more.The fabric of Baluchari saree is very fine and transparent mostly made of Murshidabad silk used with a soft drape
BALUCHARI SARI
Two hundred years ago Baluchari was used to be practised in a small village called Baluchar.The first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan patronized this rich weaving tradition and brought this craft to Baluchar village in Murshidabad district of West Bengal, from where it got the name Baluchari.
The master weavers were provided with cultivable land and ponds by Nawabs in exchange of the exquisite weaves.
HISTORY
Murshid Quli Khan
• Dubraj Das was the last known weaver of the Baluchar village, who died in 1903. He used to sign his saris like an artist’s artworks, a rare phenomenon by any artisan. The saris signed by him are still being found and procured.
•. After a flood in the Ganga river and the subsequent submerging of the village, the industry moved to Bishnupur village in Bankura district. •The sari industry prospered in Bishnupur, Bankura during the reign of the Malla dynasty.[
•But this flourishing trend later declined, specially during British rule, due to political and financial reasons and the weavers were compelled to give up the profession.
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• In 1956, Subho Thakur, a famous artist himself took to revive this weaving tradition.
• He invited a master weaver named Akshay Das to the Regional design center, and trained him in the technique of Jacquard weaving.
• They both studied the Baluchari saris procured from the family collection of Rabindranath Tagore.
• Akshay then worked tirelessly to own his skills and train the other artisans of Bishnupur., the town re-emerged as a weaving center for the famous Baluchari silk saris.
• A Master Weaver, almost takes 20-25 days to complete weaving a Baluchari Saree with exquisite design.
• Surprisingly, creation of its intricate designs with high demand in the fashion world called for technical intervention for easing out the production mechanism.
• The latest development in weaving technique of Baluchari saree inspired scientists of Central Mechanical Engineering Research Institute, Durgapur to develop a machine to reduce the time of Baluchari saree weaving with an attractive finish.
INTERVENTIONS:
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• The innovated machine is called Jaquard Card Punching Machine which can be operated for weaving of computerized designs also.
• This machine will help a Master Weaver to complete weaving of an exclusive Baluchari Saree within 10-12 days and will facilitate replacing of traditional motifs and theme with an attractive and latest concept.
• The machine is likely to cost Rs. 1.5 to 2.0 lakhs if commercially manufactured.
• NABARD has also taken up Baluchari as part of its plan to promote traditional crafts of Bengal like Terra Cotta and Bell Metal work.
•Cultivation of cocoons:-
•Processing of yarns:-•The artisans of Bishnupur now source mulberry silk from Bangalore and Mysore,• It is first boiled in soda and soap mixture and then dyed in acidic colors. •The yarn is then transferred to small beams called ‘Sisaban’ and bigger beams called ‘Dhal’. •While weaving, the artisan attaches these beams on the loom and starts weaving.
•Motif making:-• Making of the motifs for 'pallavs' and other part of Baluchari is in itself an intricate process.
PROCESS OF MAKING THE BALUCHARI
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Weaving:- After jacquard loom has been introduced, weaving of a Baluchari saree takes five to six days to get completed. Two weavers work on it on shifting basis.
The design is drawn on a graph paper, it is coloured and punching is done using cards. After punching, these cards are sewed in order and fixed in the jacquard
The saris woven in Baluchari tradition are characterized by elaborate motifs on border and ‘Pallu’. Traditionally, scenes from religious epics and courtly ceremonies constituted the motifs in Baluchari weaves. The artisans also started accommodating Persian miniatures and images of sculpture and paintings from temples or monuments in the weaves. In 1957, Sri Das introduced Ajanta Eldora cave paintings as motifs on Baluchari saris. The weaving duration of one such sari is around 15-18 weeks; the process
involves expensive raw material and labor intensive technique.
MOTIFS: THEMES AND VARIETY
• Baluchari saris today often have depictions from scenes of Mahabharat and Ramayana.
• During the Mughal and British eras, they had a square design in the pallu with paisley motifs in them, and depicted scenes from the lives of the Nawab of Bengal .
THEMES
• based on the threads used in weaving the patterns:
• Baluchari: The most common balucharis have threads in 1 or 2 colours to weave the entire pattern
• Baluchari (meenakari): Sometimes, balucharis have threads in 1-2 colours along with attractive meenakari work in another colour that further brightens the pattern
• Swarnachari (baluchari in gold): The most gorgeous balucharis are woven with gold coloured threads (sometimes interspersed with a bit of silver) that illuminate the patterns to a much larger extent.
VARIETIES
• These saris were mostly worn by women from upper class and Zamindar households in Bengal during festive occasions and weddings.
USE
• With the changing time, the baluchari saree gets a make over & a touch of eco-friendliness in terms of the used yarns & colours.
• Cotton Kapas is spun with fibres of banana plants and bamboo shoots and the dyes are extracts of fruits, flowers, leaves, and vegetables such as pomegranate, jamun, neem fruits and leaves,, turmeric, marigold flowers, mangoes and others.
• The organic baluchari cotton sarees were displayed in the sari fair organised by Rang Mahal, a forum of weavers from Nadia district in West Bengal.
ORGANIC BALUCHARI
• The Baluchari saree was one of the award winners for the main weaving styles amongst thirty four National Awards for the years 2009 & 2010 present by the Hon. President Pranab Mukherjee
• Baluchari Saree of Bankura is also being showcased at the India International Trade Fair organised at New Delhi.
• The pavilion of West Bengal,has prominently displayed those products of handicrafts and handloom sector which have been recognised for their unique nature keeping the theme "Skilling India" in view.
DISPLAY & FELICITATION
cost
• Self Designer Pink Tasar ...• Rs. 8,573.00
Ishin Poly Silk Baluchari Saree - Green-STCS-19Rs. 1,499.00Naaptol
Paaneri SAREE Baluchari Silk SareeRs. 1,450.00
slice of bengal Yellow Baluchari Silk SareeRs. 7,500.00Snapdeal
• Henhttp://gaatha.com/baluchari-saree-bangal/ce http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baluchari_Sari
• www.exoticindiaart.com › Textiles › SarisCached• www.parinita.co.in/pages/baluchari• www.utsavpedia.com/.../the-sensational-swarnachari-or-sournachuri-silk/
• www.silkmarkindia.com/blog/?p=95
REFERENCES
