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Publisher's Page ...............................................................page 3Director's Page ..................................................................page 4Starting Line .....................................................................page 5Fill It Up With Regular .................................................page 10Life In The Fast Lane – Mercedes ..............................page 18Joe’s Garage .....................................................................page 23Dealing with Dealers ....................................................page 28How The Heck…? ..........................................................page 29Nuts & Bolts ....................................................................page 31Read Me ...........................................................................page 33Autoparts .........................................................................page 37Feature Articles:

The 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon, part 1 ...........................page 1Removing A top Hat MRD .....................................page 46

The Official Publication of the

NATIONAL LOCKSMITHAUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION™

WINTER1995-96

TM

The 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon,Part 1

Complete with side impact airbags andnew keying, Michael takes us for a two

part tour of the new Volvo wagonBy Michael Hyde

FEATURE ARTICLE

The 1996 Volvo wagon

(Continued on page 38)

T his time out we take a look

at the 1996 Volvo Wagon.

(see photograph1.) This is the

most popular European station

wagon out there. This car has a

high security 4-Track locking

Winter 1995-96 3

The NLAA is forging ahead under the new leadership of ManagingEditor Greg Mango. Greg brings a lot of experience to the table, and Iknow he is in the process of lining up many new surprises for NLAAmembers. So keep your eyes open for new benefits of membership!

I would also like to take a moment to thank former Managing EditorTom Seroogy for having done a fine job with this association.

Tom moves on to a new position of management with Strattec, so Iknow we will be hearing more from him on the automotivelocksmithing front. Best of luck Tom!

One thing that we have been hearing more and more controversy aboutis locksmith licensing. You may recall that at one time I was violentlyopposed to any legislation license the locksmith.

However, over time, I reversed my position, and truth be known, I havetaken a little heat for that from some readers.

The reason for my change of heart is that in many states and locales,the locksmith is starting to get beat out of performing his work. Forinstance in Florida, one county took steps to prohibit anyone notholding a mechanic's license from touching so much as an ignition lockon an automobile.

Can you imagine a day in which you have to hold a security license toinstall a panic device, a mechanic's license to repair an ignition and acontractor's license to install a deadbolt?

Well these are scary concepts, but could someday become a reality ifwe do not become more unified in the attempt to secure DECENTlegislation to regulate locksmithing. I think the choice comes down toregulating ourselves, allowing someone else to eventually regulate us,or worse yet, get locked out of being able to make a living.

Consider joining me in my thinking that locksmith licensing controlledby locksmiths is better than getting pushed around by a bunch ofbureaucrats!

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Marc Goldberg

National Locksmith Automobile Association™

PublisherMarc Goldberg

DirectorTom Seroogy

Printed in U.S.A.NLAA, a division of

National Publishing Co.Publishers of

THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH

1533 Burgundy ParkwayStreamwood, Illinois 60107

Phone 708-837-2044Fax 708-837-1210

E-mail address: [email protected]

Unsolicited manuscripts areaccepted, but must include

SASE.© 1996 National Publishing Co.

All Rights Reserved

Winter 1995-96

New leadershipfor NLAA!

Well, here it is the first NLAA

newsletter of 1996, and,

unfortunately, my last. By the

time you read this I will have

been at my new position with

Strattec for over a month, and

the NLAA is now under the

command of your new leader -

Greg Mango.

As I look back over the last

one plus years of the NLAA, I

can honestly say the

accomplishments have been

great. Our base of NLAA

members continues to grow,

opening us to an even wider

range of automobile experience.

The Bulletins and Newsletters

grow in size and substance, as

well as importance. I’m sure

many of you now have a decent

catalog of bulletins for reference

material. Our On Line services

have also boomed. Many of you

that are on line have taken

advantage of this service for

after hours use. I can honestly

say that myself, Tom Mazzone,

and Michael Hyde are enjoying

it.

Probably the most amazing

aspect of the NLAA, however, is

the amount of information I

received from our network of

automotive locksmiths. Many

key pieces of information were

forwarded to our network of

automotive locksmiths. The

truly important ones we’ve

alread published.

Of course, the NLAA will

continue to grow. The

automotive market is quickly

moving into the future and

NLAA will bring you there,

making sure that the locksmith

retains their position as

automotive lock and security

specialists.

Thanks and Good Luck,

Tom Seroogy

DIRECTOR’SPAGE

Tom Seroogy

4 Winter 1995-96 National Locksmith Automobile Association

T his issue we take a look at

our first import or foreign

ignition lock - Toyota. By far,

the Toyota is probably the most

common import vehicle

serviced by the locksmith. And,

the nice part of that, is that it is

also one of the easiest.

Throughout the late ‘70’s

through today, Toyota has

employed an easily serviced

ignition lock cylinder. The lock

cylinder is contained within a

lock housing that is attached to

the steering column. Unlike

most domestic vehicles, the unit

is modular in design, separating

into a few very serviceable and

replaceable components. Being

attached to the column means

that the column and its

components do not need to be

disassembled.

To remove the lock cylinder

from the lock housing, use a key

or pick, the lock plug to the

ACC or ON position. At this

position, a probe can be used to

depress the spring loaded lock

retainer. In early versions of

these locks, the retainer was

found near the face of the lock.

In the later models, the retainer

was moved towards the center

and back of the cylinder.

A l s o c h a n g i n g w a s t h e

method for plug removal. In

early version, the plug was held

into the lock via spring loaded

wafer found at the back of the

plug. To remove, simply

depress the plug retainer and

slide the plug out the front of

the cylinder.

In later versions, to deter easy

theft through forced plug

removal, the wafer retainer was

replaced by a Tru-Arc snap

ring, a hardened steel face was

added to the front of the plug,

and the cylinder facecap fit

over the front of the lock,

e n c a s i n g t h e l o c k p l u g .

Obviously these changes also

made Toyota ignition lock

service a little more difficult.

We will cover the two most

common of these here.

In all of the Toyota arsenal

and the various ignition style

variations, there really only

exists two types of facecaps.

(See photograph 1.) In both

ignitions a roll or solid pin is

inserted through a tang or tab

of the facecap and into the lock

body. (See photograph 2.)

National Locksmith Automobile Association Winter 1995-96 5

Toyota Ignition DisassemblyBy Tom Seroogy

1. Two typical late model Toyota ignition cylinders. 2. These facecap retaining pins are common to bothstyle lock facecaps.

Different, however, is the

secondary means of retaining

the facecap. One version uses

two solid steel pins inserted

through the side of facecap and

into the lock body. (Seephotograph 3.) The second

version utilizes two posts that

go through the lock body and

are staked from the back. (Seephotograph 4.)

Lock Style #1The first step in removing

either style facecap is to first

remove the roll pin from the

facecap tang or tab. To do so,

simply drill a small access hole

from the side of the lock into

the roll pin cavity of the lock.

(See photograph 5.) Then use a

scratch awl or probe to gently

pry the pin up. It does not need

to be totally removed. (Seephotograph 6.)

Next, use a scratch awl or

small punch to gently tap the

facecap off of the lock body.

Place the lock into a vise such

that the body of the lock is

fastened and the facecap is free.

Place the awl in the center of

one of the staked posts and give

it a gentle tap. Move the awl to

t h e o t h e r p o s t a n d t a p .


5. Drill a small acces hole from the side of the pin.

3. Two secondary pins, one from each side, hold thisstyle facecap on.

4. Two staked posts hold this facecap on, one on eachside.

Continue moving between

posts, giving gentle blows with

a hammer. Soon the posts will

work their way out the front of

the lock body and the facecap

will fall off. (See photograph 7.)

Remove the lock from the vise

and place face down on the

bench. Use a Tru-Arc ring

spreader to remove the snap

ring from the back of the plug.

(See photograph 8.)

The plug now slides out the

front of the lock. Be careful not

to let the tumblers spring out

and drop onto the floor. (Seephotograph 9.) To reassemble,

reverse the procedure. Before

replacing the facecap, make

sure that the snap ring is

attached correctly and that the

plug turns freely using a key.

When replacing the facecap,

gently tap it into place, making

sure the two posts slide neatly

through the holes of the lock

body. Then use a punch and

hammer to re-stake the posts.

Lock Style #2Like the first lock, drill and

pry the roll pin at the tang or

tab of the facecap. (Seephotograph 10.) At this point

there are two methods for

removing the roll pins from the

side of the facecap. The first

method is to simply rap the lock


6. Pry the pin up.

7. Gently tap the facecap off the lock.8. Remove the Tru-Arc snap ring from the back ofthe plug.

against a protected but solid

object (cloth covered vise or a

piece of wood). In most

instances the pins are not held

or staked in and will simply

drop out with a little per-

suasion.

If that does not work, it is

necessary to drill from the back

of the lock in line with the pins.

(See photograph 11.) Then use a

scratch awl or probe to pry the

pin out of the facecap. Once

enough pin is outside the

facecap, grab it with a pliers

and remove it. (See photograph12.) The facecap will now

simply slide off. (See photograph13.)

Again, like the previous lock,

remove the Tru-Arc snap ring

from the back of the plug and

slide the plug out of the

cylinder. (See photograph 14.)

You’re done. (See photograph

15.) Reverse the procedure to

reassemble.


9. The disassembled lock. 10. Remove the roll pin from the tang part of thefacecap

11. Drill from the back of the lock, in line with each pin.


12. Remove the roll pins.

13. The facecap can now be removed

15. The disassembled lock.14 Remove the snap ring.

T his month we take a look at

the Mitsubishi Mirage,

which may also be known as

the Dodge Colt. The model we

are exploring is a four-door

sedan. It uses one master key

for all the locks and can also use

a valet key. The key is the

double-sided type, using eight

spaces and five depths. (Seephotograph 1.)

Opening

The opening of this car is easy

and painless. Simply wedge

either front door and use an

Under-The-Button tool to lift up

on the vertical lock button

linkage rod. (See photograph 2.)

Ignition

The ignition lock is easy to

service on this car. First you

must remove the plastic two-

part trim that encircles the

steering column, also known as

the clam shell. It is held on by

three Phillips-head screws.(Seephotograph 3.)

Now unsnap the black plastic

ring that attaches to the face of

the ignition cylinder. (Seephotograph 4.)


Standard Auto Service

1994 Mitsubishi Mirage

By Michael Hyde

Also know as the Dodge Colt, the Mirage is a simple car toservice and generate keys for.

1. The 1994 Mitsubishi Mirage or Dodge Colt.

2. Using an Under-The-Button tool allows easy opening for this vehicle.

The next step is to remove the

ignition cylinder. The ignition

on this car uses an active

retainer system. Insert a

working key and rotate the key

to the ACC position and then

depress the retainer using a 90

degree angle probe. Slide the

cylinder out the housing. (Seephotograph 5.)

To disassemble the cylinder

you must remove the Tru-Arc

ring from the back of the

cylinder plug. (See photograph 6.)The plug will then slide out the

front of the cylinder housing.

The plug contains all eight

tumblers. The tumblers are of

the bi-directional type. The

ignition cylinder assembly

contains the cylinder housing,

cylinder plug,

t u m b l e r s ,

t u m b l e r

springs, plug

washer, ‘Tru-

arc’ ring, and

t h e b u z z e r

i n s e r t . ( S e ephotograph 7.)

Note: When

re- ins ta l l ing

the plug into

the housing, make sure the

buzzer arms are in the correct

corresponding positions. (Seephotograph 8.)

Door Lock

The door lock is of the

modular type. The lock cylinder

is contained in the black plastic

door release handle. (Seephotograph 9.)

The inside trim panel for the

door is pictured in photograph

10. You must remove the

Phillips-head screws in the door

pull cavity, door latch release

trim, edge of panel and the trim


4. Remove the trim ring from around the ignition cylinder.

3. Remove the three screws that hold the clam shellcolumn shroud together.

screw on the upper-forward

section of the panel. (Seephotograph 11.)

Now remove the panel as it is

secured to the door by the

standard push-in plastic clips.

When removing the panel

remember to disconnect the

electrical connections. (Seephotograph 12.)

This model has the power

door lock activator switch

attached to the lock cylinder.

(See photograph 13.)

Remove the two 10mm bolts

that attach the handle/lock

assembly to the door and slide

out the handle. Next, slide out

the retaining clip to release the

lock cylinder. (See photograph14.)

Remove the linkage rod and

u n s n a p t h e p o w e r d o o r

c o n n e c t o r f ro m t h e l o c k

cylinder. The passenger side

lock cylinder will have a five-

digit code stamped on it. The


5. Depress the cylinder retaining button and slide thelock out of the housing.

6. The Tru-Arc ring must be removed from the back ofthe plug for disassembly.

7. The disassembled ignition cylinder.


9. The door lock is part of the handle assembly.

8. During reassembly, the buzzer actuator arms mustbe correctly placed in position.

11. Screws can be seen on the door pull handle, doorlatch release handle, edge of panel on latch edge ofdoor, and front upper corner of the trim panel.10. The inside door trim panel.

code series runs from 30010 to

32009. (See photograph 15.)

To disassemble the door lock

cylinder you must remove the

face cap. This cap must be re-

used, so care should be taken to

remove it. Remove the tailpiece,

cylinder washer and spring.

The cylinder will now slide out

of the lock housing. The lock

cylinder contains all eight

tumblers. The door lock is

composed of cylinder housing,

cylinder plug, face-cap and

shutter door components,

tumblers, tumbler springs, plug

washer, spring, tailpiece and

‘E’-clip. (See photograph 16.)

Trunk Lock

To service the trunk lock it

will be necessary to open the

trunk and remove the black

plastic trim piece that covers the


14. Remove the handle from the door torelease the lock from the handle.

12. Be careful of electrical connections while removing the panel.

13. The power door lock switch is attached to the door lock on this model.

lock. The trim piece is attached

to the deck lid by two plastic

snap-in clips and one 10mm

nut. Remove the nut and then

unsnap the trim piece. Next

remove the horseshoe style

retaining clip, disconnect the

linkage rod and remove the

l o c k f r o m t h e c a r. ( S e ephotograph 17.)

Once the lock is removed

from the car you can see the

large drain-hole area in the

b o t t o m o f t h e l o c k . To

disassemble the cylinder you

will need to remove the face-

cap. This cap has to be re-used,

so take care in removing it.

Remove the tailpiece and

spring. There is a retaining

wafer in the back of the cylinder

housing that must be depressed

to slide out the plug. (Seephotograph 18.)

The cylinder plug contains

wafers in all eight positions

including a valet wafer in the

ninth position. The trunk

cylinder lock contains the

cylinder housing, cylinder plug,

face-cap and shutter door

components, tumblers, tumbler

springs, plug spring, tailpiece

and ‘E’-clip. (See photograph 19.)

Gas Door Lock

The trunk lock is secured to

the gas door by the standard

horseshoe style retaining clip.

(See photograph 20.)

The gas-door lock has a

limited area drain-hole to read

tumblers through. The cylinder

plug contains five tumblers in

positions 4 through 8. (Seephotograph 21.)

Generating First Key

Method 1 - Check owners

manual for code, written in by

the dealer or fellow locksmith.

Method 2 - Remove

passenger door cylinder and

read code stamped on lock.

Method 3 - Disassemble door

cylinder or trunk cylinder and

decode wafers to make master

key.

Specifications

Code Series: 30010-32009

Key Blank: Ilco X224/MIT3

Silca MIT11R

MACS 3

Shoulder to center

of first cut: .098”

Cut to Cut: .083”

Depths: 1-.310”, 2-.294”,

3-.278”, 4-.263”, 5-.250”


15. Remove the lock from the linkage and door lock switch. The code can be seen on the side of the lock.

16. Disassembled door lock.


18. All the wafers can be seen through the drainhole on the bottom of the trunk lock. Afterremoving the facecap, a plug retainer must bedepressed from the back of the lock.

17. The outside trim piece must be removed before removing the lock.


19. The disassembled trunk lock.

20. The gas cap lock.

21. The gas cap lockdisassembled.

129 CHASSIS

T he 129 chassis door locks

are only produced with an

alarm model. There is a

workshop edition of this model

that uses a non-alarm lock

c y l i n d e r. T h e n o n - a l a r m

cylinder was produced only as

a temporary replacement for an

alarm model. (See photograph 1.)The alarm model door lock

has a new modular type of

a l a r m c o n t a c t t h a t w h e n

activated, a green light appears

for unlocked and a red light

appears for locked. The door

cylinder is held into the door by

a single 4mm Allen screw. You

do not need to remove the door

panel to remove the cylinder if

you do not have a working key.

The retaining screw can be

accessed through a split in the

weather-stripping on the edge

of the door. The tailpiece does

not interlock into the latch

assembly, as with other 4-track

cylinders. (See photograph 2.)To remove the alarm contact

switch, push in on the two

tension roll-pins and remove

the switch. It is not necessary to

remove this switch to service

the lock. (See photograph 3.)Pictured is something new, a

hardened steel shim is inserted

on each side of the tumbler

chambers, to prevent force

turning of the cylinder plug.

(See photograph 4.)


High SecurityAuto Service

Mercedes 129 & 140 Chassis Door LocksBy Michael Hyde

1. The 129 Chassis door locks. Alarmed version on the left.

2. The door lock is can be taken from the car after simply removing a 4mmAllen screw. The screw is accessible from the side of the door, under theweather-strip, and the tailpiece does not interlock with the latchmechanism.

For 4mmAllow Screw

Because of changes to the

cylinder housing, if you did not

have a working key to rotate the

cylinder plug past the ward,

you could not remove the plug.

The only other opt ion to

disassemble this cylinder is mill

or drill a channel in the tumbler

chambers of the cylinder

housing on each side. Then you

can push the tumblers to the

shearline and rotate the plug. If

you do have a working key, first

remove the tension roll-pin on

the tailpiece and then insert the

key and rotate the plug past the

ward and pull the plug out. The

plug contains one solid, three

split and four solid tumblers.

(See photograph 5.)

NOTE: Earlier versions of thisdoor lock were found to have adifferent tumbler arrangement. SeeTumbler Chart, later in this article.

The disassembled door lock

contains the alarm switch,

switch gasket, switch roll-pins,

cylinder housing, cylinder plug,

tailpiece, and tailpiece roll pin.

(See photograph 6.)

Workshop door lockThe workshop edition of the

129 chassis lock is exactly the

same less the alarm switch. The

reason it was produced is

because of the sometimes long

wait to get a replacement alarm

door lock. The reason for the

long wait is that the infrared

portion of the alarm switch is

programmed for just that

particular car and has to work

with the infrared remotes sold

with the car. This procedure

was being done in Germany

o n l y, a t l a s t c h e c k . ( S e ephotograph 7.)

If you do not have a working

key to rotate the cylinder plug

past the ward, you cannot

remove the plug. The only other

option to disassemble this

cylinder is mill or drill a

c h a n n e l i n t h e t u m b l e r

chambers of the cyl inder

housing on each side. Then you


3. While it is not necessary to remove the switch, bypushing in the two roll pins (one on each side) theswitch can be removed.

4. A hardened shim is added to each side of thiscylinder to prevent force turning the plug.

6. The disassembled door lock

ROLL PIN

5. The removed plug and the tumblers.

can push the tumblers to the

shear-line, to rotate the plug. If

you do have a working key, first

remove the tension roll-pin on

the tailpiece and then insert the

key and rotate the plug past the

ward and pull the plug out. The

plug contains three solid and

three spl i t tumblers . (Seephotograph 8.)

The non-alarm, workshop

edition, lock cylinder contains

the cylinder housing, cylinder

plug, tailpiece and tailpiece roll

pin. (See photograph 9.)

140 CHASSISThe 140 chassis door lock is a

locksmith’s dream. The lock is

integrated into the handle

assembly by

use of four

metric Allen

head screws,

two holding

the cylinder

housing, one

on each side.

There are no

alarm swit-

ches or alarm

contacts built

into the lock,

even though

all 140 chassis cars are alarm

models, the alarm infrared

switch is built into the actual

handle pull itself. The manual

alarm switch is built directly

into the latch assembly and is

activated by the cylinder plug

rotating in either direction,

depending on lock ing or

u n l o c k i n g t h e c a r. ( S e ephotograph 10.)

To disassemble the lock

cylinder you don’t even need a

key. First, rotate the cylinder

housing face and slide off. (Seephotograph 11.)


7. The workshop door lock. 8. The tumbler configuration of the workshop edition ofthe door lock.

9. Disassembled non-alarm door lock.

10. The door lock used by the 140 Chassis.


12. Pull out the plug and secondary housing.

11. Simply twist to remove the lock face on this lock.

13. The plug removed.

14. The disassembled 140 Chassis door lock.


Next, pull out cylinder plug

and secondary housing. (Seephotograph 12.)

Prepare a 4-track key cut

down to all number four

depths. Insert the prepped key

and gently insert the key in and

out to walk the cylinder plug

out. The plug contains one

solid, three split and four solid

tumblers. (See photograph 13.)

T h e d i s a s s e m b l e d l o c k

cylinder is pictured. The lock

cylinder contains the cylinder

housing face, the cylinder plug,

the secondary cylinder housing,

the rear cylinder housing and

tailpiece unit. (See photograph 14.)

Illustration 2Illustration A

NOTES:

F inishing our discussion on

G M s t e e r i n g c o l u m n

problems, we turn to a problem

whose root cause is the

key/shifter interlock switch.

While capable of occurring to

a l l G M ’ s w i t h a u t o m a t i c

transmission, the most common

occurrence happens to those

models with a console shifter

placement.

In these models, a cable, much

like a heavier bicycle hand

brake cable, runs from the

shifter lever to the back of the

toe-pan and up the column to

the ignition switch. (The

ignition switch is the electrical

switch found attached to the

column inside the instrument

control panel. The ignition lock

is where the keys are inserted

for activating the ignition

switch.) This cable controls the

key/shifter interlock switch.

When the shifter is in the

PARK position, the ignition lock

can be turned to the OFF

position. If the shifter is in any

other position, the key/shifter

switch does not allow the key to

be turned to the full OFF

position for key removal.

Likewise, with the ignition lock

in the full OFF position, the

shifter cannot be taken out of

the PARK position.

When problems occur from a

misadjusted cable or a broken

key/shifter interlock switch, the

locksmith is often called for a

repair. The reason? Because the

resulting symptom disguises

itself as a lock problem. While

the ignition lock turns freely to

the START and ON positions, it

does not return to the full OFF

position. Turning back to OFF,

the vehicle’s motor stops

running, but accessory power is

still on. There is a spongy

feeling while trying to turn it

back to OFF. In fact, some

customers may even force the

lock back far enough to remove

the key, or forcibly remove the

key before it is in the full OFF

position. Needless to say, this

c a n c a u s e e x t e n s i v e a n d

irreparable damage to the lock,

key/shifter interlock switch, or

ignition switch.

There are two common causes

for this occurrence. Neither,

unfortunately, should be

handled by a locksmith who is

not formally trained in this area.

The first problem is the result of

stretched and misadjusted

c a b l e . T h i s i s e s p e c i a l l y

common among the northern

and midwest region of the US

and other areas where snow is

common.

A common practice for

natives of a snowbound car is to

shift from REVERSE to DRIVE

in an attempt to rock the vehicle

out of the snow. Like any cable,

constant sharp pulling will


Lock Problem Imposters

By Tom Mazzone

Identifying this one problem before you go out to the job cansave you time, money and liability

1. This shifter cable adjuster is located in the center console and isdifficult at most for a locksmith to get to.

cause it to stretch. Once it has

been stretched enough, the

key/shifter interlock switch

cannot operate properly, either

not allowing the ignition lock to

be turned to the OFF position or

allowing the shifter to move

into all positions regardless of

ignition lock position.

The fix here is quite simple -

adjust the cable. Now, for a

trained mechanic, this is a fairly

simple matter. For the

locksmith, however, it is going

way out of bounds. In order to

adjust the cable, the center

console trim and covers must be

removed to gain access to the

cable adjuster. (See photograph1.) With the adjuster exposed,

small ribs can be seen on one

end of the unit, along with a

large compression spring. (Seephotograph 2.) The ribs serve as

part of a locking mechanism for

the adjuster. To make the

adjustment, the cable adjuster is

opened or released by releasing

a slide at the center of the unit.

This piece engages the ribs on

the end portion of the adjuster

and locks it in place. (Seephotograph 3.)

With the unit unlocked, the

central portion of the adjuster is

compressed or expanded to the

proper position and the slide

pushed back down to lock the

unit in place. (See photograph 4.)Still, even knowing how to

operate the cable adjuster, a

thorough understanding of how

to attain proper adjustment

must be known. Without this

information and knowledge, a

proper adjustment cannot be

made. It is for this reason that

this type of work must be left to

a qualified mechanic. Improper

adjustment leaves the locksmith

open to all kinds of liability

problems. No sense taking any

chances.


2. The adjuster includes a small ribbed portion and alarge compression spring.

3. Unlocking the adjuster.

4. Adjusting the cable and relocking the adjuster.

The second problem is a

malfunctioning key/shifter

interlock switch. This unit can

be found attached to the side of

the ignition switch. (Seephotograph 5.) At the end of this

unit a white collar can be seen.

This is the piece that does all of

the activating for locking and

unlocking the switch. When this

piece is not positioned correctly,

it does not allow the ignition

switch to operate properly. (Seephotograph 6.)

While in the PARK position,

the white collar is extended just

beyond the end of the switch.

This allows a small pin on the

side of the switch to remain

depressed. (See photograph 7.)

When pulled into gear,

however, this white collar is

pulled within the switch and

the pin at the side of the switch

is extended. (See photograph 8.)

While attached to the ignition

switch, the small pin rests

above an opening. When in the

OFF position, a sliding switch

within the ignition switch

blocks this hole, and prevents

the pin from extending. Because

the pin cannot extend, it blocks

the white collar from being

pulled back by the shifter, thus

preventing the shifter from

being removed from PARK. (Seephotograph 9.)

When the key is turned to the

ON or START position, the

sliding switch within the

ignition switch clears the hole.

This allows the pin to extend,

allowing the vehicle to be

shifted.

Because the white collar

controls the placement of the


5. The key/shifter interlock switch attached to theside of the ignition switch.

6. A white collar can be found at the end of theinterlock switch. This piece controls the operation ofthe switch.

7. When in the PARK position, the white collarextends out of the switch and the small pin on theside of the switch is depressed.

8. In gear, the white collar is now inside the switchand the pin is extended.

pin, any interruption in proper

operation can cause problems.

Common is having the white

collar stick inside the switch,

even after the car has been

placed into PARK. With the

collar jammed inside the switch,

the pin on the side remains

extended into the ignition

switch, blocking the sliding

switch from moving back into

the OFF position. The only way

to alleviate the problem is to get

the white collar to move back

into the correct position.

In some instances, spraying a

small amount of lubricant into

the top of the switch and

moving the shifter back and

forth can help free the trapped

collar. Sometimes it is necessary

to use a small hook pick to grab

the collar and pull it into

position. And in still other

instances, the switch must be

removed to allow the car to be

turned OFF. In any case, the

column must be dropped to

perform these services, and

only replacement of the switch

can assure a proper and

adequate fix.

If you have a customer with

this problem, immediately refer

them to a dealer for interlock

switch replacement. Only under

very special conditions should

the locksmith even consider

removing the switch for the

customer, and then, only after

the customer has signed a full

disclosure and release.

Remember, without this switch,

the shifter can be moved at

anytime. If a child should move

the shifter while playing in the

car, you will be held liable for

consequential damage and

injury!

Should the interlock switch

need to be removed, lower the

column. Then use a #1 Phillips

screw driver to remove the two

switch mounting screws that

hold it to the ignition switch.

(See photograph 10.) (Screw

placement is dependent on the

steering column style being

worked on.) The interlock

switch will now tilt away from

the ignition switch. (See

photograph 11.) The ignition

switch will now operate as

normal with the exception that

it can be turned OFF while in

any gear. And remember, the

shifter can move to any gear at

any time, regardless of the

position of the ignition switch.

So, there you have two

common service problems that

locksmiths run into. In either


9. The pin of the interlock switch aligns with thishole of the ignition switch. This is the coordinatingportion of the whole key/shifter lock system.

10 Using a #1 Phillips, remove the two screws thathold the interlock switch to the ignition switch.

case we adamantly advise you

to refer the customer to the

dealer. What we hope to offer

you with this bit of information,

is helping you to discern

between a lock problem you can

handle, and driving out to a job

that is beyond the scope of

locksmithing.

For a more thorough under-

standing on the key/shifter

interlock problem see The

National Locksmith’s Guide To:

Steering Column Service by

Tom Mazzone and Tom

Seroogy.


11. The switch can now be moved down and away from the ignition switch.

NOTES:


Well, over the last few issues

we’ve had much discussion about

the nature and operation of Auto

Dealers. Now, how about some

practical steps - some techniques

and methods - for getting their

work?

For this, I’m going to have to go

by my own experience. In other

words, this is not an iron clad plan

or program. However, it should

provide some direction and

possibly spur some ideas.

Who?The first step in approaching the

Auto Dealer market is to first

define the “Who” or your target

market group. This is dependent

on at least three factors: Location

or service area, types of service

being performed and the people to

contact.

Needless to say, location or

service area is going to be

determined by your particular

market area and circumstances.

The type of work you want to

perform is also important. I was

fortunate enough to be able to

cover all facets of automotive lock

work - domestic, import, key

generation, opening, rekeying,

replacement, high security, and

some specialty work. Your

interests and strengths may lend

themselves towards specific types

of automotive work, be it domestic

work only, column repair, etc.

Regardless of what it is, define the

scope of your service. If not, you

may find yourself soliciting an

account you are not able to service.

Finally, you need to know who it

is that should be contacted. In all

cases, it needs to be the decision

maker! Don’t sell your services to a

salesperson, or a friend of the Used

Car Manager’s daughter’s

girlfriend. Talking to these people

is a waste of valuable time. When

making any type of contact, talk

with those in charge -those that

control the money! For me this

includes the Used Car Manager,

New Car Manager, Service

Manager, Parts Manager and

General Manager. All of these

people have a direct effect on my

doing work for their company.

Another alternative is contacting

the owner. This has been especially

beneficial for me, as most of them

o w n s e v e r a l f r a n c h i s e s

(manufacturers) that include as

many as five or six separate

dealerships within my service area.

In most cases, however, contact

with the owner takes time, an

already established relationship

with one of his/her companies,

and a strong recommendation by

one or more managers that he

respects. (It should be noted that of

the 33 dealers I serviced, 21 of

them were owned by only three

groups or owners.)

How?Now that your service area,

scope of service and contacts have

been identified, what’s next?

For me, it was simply a

systematic way of introducing

myself and my company that was

not overly intrusive to the people

involved. It should be remembered

from previous articles that

managers generally do not want to

waste time talking to you about

what you can offer them. They

wait until an emergency happens

and then run like rabbits trying to

find someone to save their sorry

butts at a price they think is

reasonable. Your job, of course, is

to make sure that you are that

person they contact. If you

overburden them with unwanted

solicitation from the beginning,

they’ll use someone else just to

spite you.

So, here was how I proceeded. It

involved a four step process:

First - I made telephone contact

with each and every person or

contact from each and every

dealership within my area. Of

course, there were ulterior motives

for this contact. Aside from letting

them know I existed, I also got the

names and correct spellings of the

correct people to contact. Also, I let

them know in advance to keep an

eye out for a special media kit

being sent their way, and that I

would contact them again in a

week or so to discuss its content.

With this approach, whether they

are interested or not, you’ve set the

groundwork for continued

conversation and contact.

Second - I’d send a mailing to

each of the contacts I made the New

Car Manager, Used Car Manager,

(See page 30)

Some practical advise on landing those elusiveBig Dealer accounts.

By Tom Seroogy


QUESTION:There is a discrepancy on

the key specifications onTechnical Bulletins 6.4 (VW)and 6.6 (Audi). Thedimensions show 11 cuts. Thetumbler locations show 10cuts. (My code equipmentindicates 11 tumblers.) I thinkthe tumbler location charts aremissing space 11.

Please fax me back with thecorrected chart (even handwritten), rather than waitingfor re-printing of the TechBulletin.

James MarshallCalifornia

ANSWER:All be it, as confusing as

they may appear, Jim, thetumbler location charts onTech Bulletins 6.4 and 6.6 areabsolutely correct andcorrespond to the given keyspecifications. But, I can seefrom where all the confusioncomes. The tumblerplacement charts, as you state,show that there are only 10tumblers in this keying system.The key diagram/spe-cifications, however, indicatethat there are 11 spaces. Theproblems arise in the way thisparticular key system isimplemented.

Volkswagen, Audi andPorsche are sister companiesthat have employed identicallocks and keying systems foryears. Of these systems theAH, HV, NV, N, and VB allderive their bitting from thesame 1 through 9282 bittinglist. In other words, the codeAH8792 has the identicalbitting as code VB8792. The

difference between thesecodes lies in the keyway usedby the various codes asindicated by the alpha prefix.

The following keyblanks areused for each prefix:

AH - (Master key) X139 andsuperseding blanks of samekeyway.

AN - (Valet) X9 andsuperseding blanks of samekeyway.

HV - (Master) X88 andsuperseding blanks of samekeyway.

NV - (Valet) X9 andsuperseding blanks of samekeyway.

N - (Used on Vanagon Busonly) X110

VB - X9 and supersedingblanks of same keyway.

Now, with that said, let’slook at the way in which thelock is configured. The VW,Audi and Porsche utilizes notonly 10 staggered or oppositeloaded wafer tumblers, theyalso include three spaceswhere there are actually twotumblers. The depth or bittingof the tumblers in doubledspaces are the same for bothtumblers. On the key, for thespaces that include twotumblers, the space iswidened. To confuse matters,the exact three spaces thatinclude two tumblers varies bythe code range being used.For code ranges from 1 to854, 2001 to 2830, 4001 to5151 and 7101 to 8154,spaces 2/3, 5/6 and 8/9 are thedoubled spaces. For all othercode ranges the 2/3, 6/7 and8/9 spaces are doubled.

As you can see, the only

variation between the twosystems is the doubling ofspace 5/6 or 6/7. The doublingof spaces 2/3 and 8/9 areconsistent for all series.

Now let’s look at the keydiagram in Tech Bulletins 6.4and/or 6.6. Measuring fromthe shoulder there are 11spaces indicated. If you lookclosely, however, you willalso notice that not all thespacing is equal. If we followthe difference between thefirst two cuts, we wouldassume that all spacing wouldbe approximately .090”.Measuring the differencebetween cuts two and three,however, there is only adifference of .038”. This sameindiscrepancy occursthroughout the key. Thereason? Those with the closerspacing are the spaces wherethe two tumblers reside. Assuch, the spacing designationand the correspondingmeasurements are as follows:

Space Measurement1 .099”

2/3 .189” and .227”

4 .330”

5/6 .423” & .461

6/7 .541” & .579”

8/9 .702” & .740”

10 .859”

You will notice that thereare four possible spaces thatare doubled. We know thatthe 2/3 and 8/9 are alwaysdoubled. We also know thateither space 5/6 or space 6/7is going to be doubled,depending on the range of thecode used. However, we alsoknow that only one of these

two positions is doubled.Therefore, in one of thesepositions, the number 6 spaceis eliminated and only one cutor space is going to be used .So, in reality, there are 11 cutspossible, but only 10 of themare actually used.

This is easy to follow incode books that display thebitting for all 10 cuts of thekey. Because 2/3 and 8/9 arealways the same, the bittingwill reflect this. If space 5/6 isdoubled, this is directlyreflected by the bitting. And if6/7 is doubled it will also beapparent.

For example, a code where2/3, 5/6 and 8/9 are doubledwill appear as: 1332443221.A code where 2/3, 6/7 and 8/9are doubled looks like this:1332433221.

Now, how about we throwanother variable into the mix?Many code books only give 7digits or spaces for the VWbitting. In these series, thelocksmith is either told or issupposed to know whichbitting to double. In short, ifspaces 2/3, 5/6, and 8/9 aresupposed to be doubled, thenthe bitting in positions 2, 4and 6 are doubled. If spaces2/3, 6/7, and 8/9 are supposedto be doubled, then the bittingin positions 2, 5, and 6 aredoubled.

For example, in a key where2/3, 5/6 and 8/9 are doubledand the 7 digit bitting is1324321, the actual bitting is1332443221. Likewise, if 2/3,6/7 and 8/9 are doubled, theactual bitting is 1332433221.Using our chart from above,the 7 digit bitting correspondsto the full bitting as follows.


Space Space Measurement

1 1 .099”

2 2/3 .189” and .227”

3 4 .330”

4 5/6 .423” & .461

5 6/7 .541” & .579”

6 8/9 .702” & .740”

7 10 .859”

Well, now that we’ve gonethrough a full explanation onthe 11 cuts versus 10 spaceproblem, let me throw in alittle tip to make this subjectreally aggravating - Whencutting an actual key, all thedouble spaces can be cut.That’s right! Once you knowthe bitting, spaces 2/3, 5/6,

6/7 and 8/9 can all be doublecut without effecting theworking of the key. This isclearly reflected on the codecards used for the HPC 1200code machine. In fact, theonly time a problem canoccur is when an incorrectspace is not doubled orwidened. So, for the sake of

creating an operating key,simply make all of thesepositions double cuts.

General Manager, Parts Manager,

Service Manager, etc. The mailer

would include the various money

saving services I offered or - “The

Package.” I’ll explain exactly what

I mean by that in a minute. What I

did not send them, however, was

pricing!

Third - I contacted each person

again. Needless to say, many did

not receive the mailer or remember

talking to me. Still, the contact was

made. At this time, I would

introduce some pricing, but more

importantly, I arranged a time

when I could come in and talk to

them personally about “The

Package.”

Fourth - I visited and spoke with

as many of these managers as I

could, offering them the various

services and prices that I carried.

The most important manager

contacts that I would make on

these visits was the Used Car

Manager. This was the department

that would typically give me the

most business, therefore, he/she

was the most important contact to

make. If I landed the Used Car

Manager, all the other departments

would typically soon follow.

What?Now we need to discuss exactly

“What” it is you’re offering the

dealer, or - “The Package.” The

package is that information used to

solicit your accounts. It should

include your services, your

programs, and the benefits you

offer the dealership.

When developing this package,

it’s important to understand that

how we perceive our services and

how the dealer perceives our

services are totally different. We

envision ourselves as assets,

allowing the dealer to move or sell

a vehicle that he/she has lost the

keys to. The dealer views our

services as lost, non-returnable

income. Our services, in the eyes of

the dealer, do not add to the

bottom line of a car sale like a new

stereo system or alarm does.

Instead we’re just a necessary evil.

With this in mind, the package

must approach the dealer from his

perspective, hitting those “hot

buttons” that make our service

sound like he/she is getting a real

deal. It’s around this that a package

- a display of services and benefits -

is developed. The package must

answer all the key questions in a

simplistic, well defined and

attractive manner.

When developing your program,

remember to follow the KISS

principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid!).

The dealer is not concerned with

specifics - i.e. what parts or

keyblanks you use, how accurate

your keys are, etc. They simply

want to know - You can do what

they want - That you can do it

when they need it done - And that

you can do it for a reasonable

price! Therefore, your package

must focus on Service,

Expediency/Availability, and

Savings.

ADD-VantageFor example, I put together a

dealership package called ADD-

vantage, or the Auto Dealer

Discount Vantage package. The

package consisted of five benefits

to the dealer:

First - I could work on any

automobile they had! No questions

asked.

Second - They got same day

service for all calls made before

noon. Plus, I was available at all

hours.

Third - They received discount

rates on all services. All pricing

was based upon a very simple, and

easy to read and understand

pricing schedule and applies to all

hours of the day and week.

For example, there are only two

prices a dealer is going to pay for

key generation - high security

vehicles and standard vehicles.

There are no exceptions, no add-

ons, no surprises! The dealer is

comforted by the consistency and

simplicity. He doesn’t have to

guess or wonder what he’s going

to get “socked with” the next time I

come in.

Fourth - They received a

quarterly newsletter featuring the

latest in automotive news, tid-bits

and interviews with key personnel

from their industry.

ConclusionTo complete the ADD-Vantage

package, all the benefits were

boiled down and used to develop a

simple, easy to read brochure that

went out as the mailing. A price list

was developed and introduced

when I visited each manager.

The result? Within a few years I

had more automotive work than I

could handle!

Good Luck.

Dealing With Dealers(From page 28)


B e it Silca’s Matrix or Club, or

HPC’s LaserPoint, cutting

high security automotive keys

requires not only a degree of

competency in high security

automotive, it still requires the use

of depth keys. As manufacturers

expand their line of vehicles using

high security keys and locks, so do

the number of manufacturers

providing depths keys.

For review today, we are looking

at sets offered to us by three

manufacturers: Hawkins, Steve-

Guard and MB Key. It should be

noted that the limited use of these

particular keys do not allow me the

ability to make a definite case for

using one manufacturer’s keys

over another. About the best

recommendation is to purchase a

set from each manufacturer and

decide for yourself.

Aside from the depth keys, the

only factor effecting the appeal of

one set over another is the

thoroughness of the instructions.

Included by each manufacturer,

they ranged from being adequate

on one end to almost being a full

fledged manual. It should be

noted, that none of the instructions

are intended for nor do they

include service procedures. Instead

they reference the proper approach

and direction for creating a key to

various vehicles.

A long time and well respected

player with foreign and domestic

automotive service is Lynn

Hawkins. Hawkin’s keys, like the

others, offer a respectable degree of

precision in the finished key. The

keys are clearly marked and

separated to make cutting easy.

(See photograph 1.) The instructions

provided with these keys are

adequate for locksmiths familiar

with high security key systems. A

newcomer may need to do some

research to competently attack

some of the newer and more

Guide To H.S. Guide KeysBy Michael Hyde

1. Depth Keys by Hawkins.

2. These keys by Steve-Guard come with a good set of instructions.

advanced systems, however,

especially some of the new BMW

and Mercedes systems. Hawkins

k e y s a r e a v a i l a b l e t h r o u g h

authorized Hawkins distributors.

Next on our list are the keys from

Steve-Guard. While his keys may

not be recognized here, the man

behind them certainly is - Steve

Gallagher. Steve, stationed in

Ireland, is one of Europe’s leading

authorities on automotive locking

systems. Not only is this seen in

the accuracy of his depth keys, it is

also revealed in the instructions

received with the keys. Steve’s

manual and keys are a good jump

start for any locksmith entering the

high security auto field.

Steve-Guard can be contacted in

Ireland at 011-353-88-554848.

Last on our list are the keys

made by a newcomer to high

security guide key manufacturing -

MB Key. (See photograph 3.) This

product by far exceeded even my

expectations. One problem I had

when first examining the keys was

a n a p p a r e n t . 0 0 4 ” s h a l l o w

difference on all the cuts of all the

keys. Fearing inaccurate keys, I

contacted MB who offered the

following explanation.

Due to the design of high

security key machines, whenever

keys are traced, there is a degree of

flex to the guide or tracer, be it ever

so slight. This flex ranges between

.003” and .006”. If tracing guide

keys that are exact, the finished key

will be cut deep by this amount.

While adequate for most older

locks, it is not acceptable for many

of the newer systems. Therefore, all

of MB Key’s guide keys are cut

.004” shallow.

Darn if they weren’t correct.

Every key cut, using typical tracing

pressure, hit specifications without

fail.

Another plus for the MB Key set

is the extensive amount of

information included in the

instructions. This includes both

new and old systems for all the

manufacturers.

As a final note on MB, they were

the only company that was able to

p r o v i d e g u i d e k e y s a n d

instructions for Lexus.

MB Keys can be contacted at

(310) 699-0060.


3. New to guide key production, MBKey guide keys were surprisinglyaccurate and include superbinstructions. Even Lexus keys areavailable.

NOTES:


Opening The 1996Chrysler/Dodge Minivan

NLAA member. Ever wonder what the different recommended

ways were for getting into a specific vehicle? Well, this issue we

bring you just that. Following you will find opening methods used for

the 1996 Chrysler/Dodge Minivan as brought to you by Pro-Lok, Slide

Lock Tool, and Tech-Train.

All of these manufacturers are experts in car opening and car opening

tools. Learn and enjoy!

Chrysler Corporation has the

distinctive reputation of

having introduced more new

models in the past five years than

any other auto maker in history.

While some are new model names

- Viper, Intrepid, Neon, Cirrus,

Avenger - others are completely

redesigned vehicles bearing the

same name as their predecessors.

Enter the ‘96 Chrysler minivans.

The Dodge Caravan, Plymouth

Voyager and Chrysler Town &

Country, are the latest variations of

the minivan that started it all more

than a decade ago. (See photograph1.) The redesign, in addition to

being more aerodynamic,

incorporates a new option of a

sliding door behind the driver.

The car definitely has the

rounded 1990’s look, but like most

current Chrysler models it’s

amazingly simple to open.

Although Mopar has finally gone

to a rigid pawl on their locks, there

is no real thought yet given to anti-

tool entry deterrence.

You don’t need a lot of technical

training to open this vehicle. There

is no mystery here. The lock can be

picked and the vertical linkage rod

mechanism is visible and readily

accessible to a wide variety of

tools.

To open the Chrysler minivans,

carefully insert a wedge 12 inches

from the rear edge of the passenger

side door frame. Insert a halogen

inspection light at 14 inches from

the rear edge of the door frame.

(See photograph 2.)The vertical lock linkage rod is

plainly visible with a halogen light

and the latch release rod, also

visible, runs horizontally. The

active lock rod connects to a plastic

bell crank. (See illustration 3.)Insert an AO-39 Double Slide or

similar tool between the weather

stripping and glass about 7 inches

from the rear edge of the door

frame, with the tip of the tool

facing rearward. Lower the tip of

the tool 10 inches into the door

cavity and rotate it 45o clockwise.

Lift up under the angled vertical

rod. Hook the rod with the tip of

the tool and twist slightly to bind

the rod. Lift the tool up gently to

unlock the door. Hey it’s open!

Note: Although the bell crank is

readily accessible, it’s made of

plastic. Given the choice of

manipulating a plastic part or a

metal part, we chose metal.

Engaging the vertical linkage rod

itself will avoid the chance of

breaking the plastic part.

For more information contact Pro-

Lok distributor.


1996 Chrysler/Dodge MinivanBy Tom Gillespie, CML

Photograph 1 Photograph 2

Illustration 3


By Steve Young

1996 Chrysler/Dodge Minivan

The Plymouth Voyager, Dodge

Caravan and Chrysler Town &

Country have been totally

redesigned for 1996. These vans

now feature door locks equipped

with rigid cams and sliding doors

on both sides of the van. In

addition, the “Accustar” steering

column has been replaced with an

air bag steering column very

similar to the ones on the “LH”

vehicles (Intrepid, Vision,

Conquest).

The base of the inside lock

control button and much of the

vertical linkage is shielded by the

inner door skin. Neither the TT-

1017 or the “S” hooks can be used

to attack the inside linkage. All

three vans share the same body

and can all be opened with the TT-

1008 and the following technique.

Begin by wedging open the door

above the outside door handle.

Insert an inspection light into the

door and locate the white plastic

bell crank at the base of the vertical

inside lock control linkage. Place a

slight inward bend in the shaft of

the TT-1008 tool so that the tip of

the short end of the tool will reach

just slightly further into the door.

Insert the short end of the tool into

the door and lower it until the end

of the tool is just below the inside

lock control bell crank. Lift up on

the bell crank with the tool to

unlock the van. (See illustration 1.)

The bell crank does not move

very far at all; you may not even be

able to feel it move. Watch the

inside lock control button to tell if

the van has been unlocked. The

bell crank can be located by feel

fairly easily. With a little practice

and car, the job can be done

without an inspection light.

For more information contact

Tech-Train at (800) 356-0136.

Illustration 1


Millions of mini vans are on

the roads, with Chrysler,

Dodge and Plymouth holding onto

the bulk of the market share. After

all, Chrysler was the original

innovator who established the

craze over a decade ago. With the

sheer volume of units on the roads,

we are often called to rescue

lockout victims driving these

popular vehicles.

The second generation mini van

has received an all new lock

system as of late 1995 which, in my

opinion, is easier and safer to open

than the first generation. They are

now equipped with a vertical lock

system with the manual lock

button fitting flush with the top of

the door panel.

I’ve never recommended using

an Under-The-Window tool

designed for horizontal systems on

anything that is not horizontal.

However, I do find this approach

to be quite safe when opening the

‘95 thru ‘96 mini vans, which have

a vertical linkage system. I can

only verify the effectiveness of our

9.5” reach AutoBuster III Tool.

Shorter reach tools, more than

likely, cannot maneuver into

proper position due to a 6” metal

strip located at the far left side of

the window, just below the base of

the outside weatherstrip. (Seephotograph 1.)

Once wi th in the door

c a v i t y , t h e r e a r e n o

obstructions for the tool to

entangle. Also, there is ample

clearance at both the outside

and the inside weatherstrip.

(See photograph 2.) Therefore,

after the door is opened, even

the removal of the tool is easy

going.

(With that said, I hope no

one establishes the bad habit

of trying to open other flush

mounted lock buttons with

this Under-The-Window tool,

for if you do, you’ll probably

regret trying.)

If the van you’re working

on happens to have after-

market window tinting, I’ve

assigned yet another opening

method using the large end of

the Serpent Tool™. This is an

easy to understand method

needing little explanation other

than reviewing illustration three.

For more information contact

Slide Lock Tool Company by

calling, toll free (800) 336-8812.

1996 Chrysler/Dodge MinivanBy Scott Selby

Photograph 1 Photograph 2

Illustration three

Inside Industry NewsBy Michael Hyde

1995 Lexus LS400The LS400 was redesigned and

released in 1995. One of thechanges made was that theyredesigned the trunk lock cylinderto incorporate a 1/4” hardenedanti-drill plate. So if you werethinking of drilling this expensivelock, think again. Besides if thedrill bit were to skip off the lockand go into the tail-light assembly,you would be in big trouble.

Nissan PathfinderDid you know that Nissan was

suppose to release its newredesigned Pathfinder in earlyDecember 1994? Well, due totechnical difficulties, with theengine, it will not be released untilsometime in Febuary 1996. This isthe one that will be using the newNissan code series and the newkeyway. The code series is 1 -22168. Curtis keyway DA34. A tencut key with four depths.

Mercedes 1996 E-ClassMercedes-Benz recently released

its new re-designed E-Class. Thechassis number is 210. The modelsare E 300 Diesel Sedan, E 320 Sedan(gas), E 420 Sedan (gas, 1997model, available Spring ‘96).

The E-Class uses a 2-Track HighSecurity key. The key has 10 cutsand 5 depths. It is identical to the 2-Track that was introduced on the1994 C-Class, chassis 202. It is usesthe same space and depths as otherMercedes 2-Track-10 Cut keys. Thetumblers are of a different designthan the early Mercedes 2-Tracks.The difference is that this newerversion first used on the 1994 C-Class has a blunt-square tip. It isimportant to use the newer styleblank, Silca HU64P. The older blanksare Silca HU41P, Ilco S34YS-P.

The ignition cylinder, door locksand trunk lock all have a 202

chassis part number. What doesthis mean? The 1994 & up C-Classand 1996 & up E-Class share thesame locks, same part numbers.This cuts down on costs for thefactory. You will see this start tohappen with other manufacturesthat have not done it before onseperate models.

The new E-Class a lso hasAirbags mounted in the doors.Don’t try opening this vehicle justyet.

1996 Mazda MilleniaWell, Well, Well, - While other

publications have reported thedemise of the Mazda 4-Track, Inever said this. The 1996 MazdaMillenias just released, all have a 4-Track High Security Internalkeyways, just like in 1995.

Datsun 280ZHow do you get the door lock

out? Not so simply.Are you removing the window

glass to get to the door lock on a280Z?

KitsWhen was the last time you

checked to see if you have enoughtumblers and tumbler springs inyour keying kits?

This also goes for your face-capkits and shutter-door parts.

CarmaxIt looks like there’s gonna be

some changes in the way peoplebuy used cars. One of the newthings is a company ca l ledCARMAX. The parent company isCircuit City Electronics. The idea isto have a super-huge lot of usedcars where you walk through thelot and pick out a car you want,instead of going to a new car dealerand checking out his limitedsupply of used cars. Some of the

other new super used car lotsi n c l u d e “ C a r C h o i c e ” a n d“AutoNation USA”. AutoNationUSA is owned by BlockBuster -Video.

Escort / TracerIn May 1996, you will see the

new Ford Escort and MercuryTracers. They will be 1997 models.

AirbagsSomeday soon you might see

Side-Airbags on Saturn, Cadillacand Nissan.

What about Airbags for the rear-seat passengers? Nissan is workingon this concept, the bags would bemounted in the rear section of thefront seats.

Mercedes ModelsThe Mercedes models for 1996

are:

C220 Sedan, C280 Sedan & C36Sport Sedan.

E300 Diesel Sedan, E320 Sedan &1997 E420 Sedan.

S 3 2 0 S e d a n , S 3 2 0 L o n g -Wheelbase Sedan, S420 Long-Wheelbase Sedan, S500 Long-Wheelbase Sedan, S500 Coupe,S600 Long-Wheelbase Sedan &S600 Coupe.

SL320 Coupe/Roadster,SL500 Coupe/Roadster &SL600 Coupe/Roadster.

Acura SlxHave you seen the Acura SLX?

Boy, that sport-utility vehiclesure looks familar. Well it should,it really is the Isuzu Trooper.

VATSIs there anything worse than

tearing down an Airbag GMcolumn with VATS, and there is nocode stamped on the ignitioncylinder lock?



system. Volvo started using a 4-

Track system in 1988 on the model

760GLE. In 1993, they started using

a 4-Track system on all models. The

4-Track system used from 1988

through 1992 uses a different space

and depth than the newer system

that was introduced in 1993 and

runs up through the 1996 model

year. The older system used a

different type of tumbler also. This

car is also equipped with Dual Front

Airbags and S.I.P.S. (Side Impact

Protection System). The SIPS

Airbags are mounted in the outward

side of the two front seats. The SIPS

Airbags are not detectable looking at

the seats. (See photograph 2.)

Opening TechniqueThis version is the USA model

a n d i s n o t e q u i p p e d w i t h

deadlocks, ignition immobilizer or

Transponder system, as with other

models sold in Europe. To open

this car we used an Under-The-

Button tool. Insert the tool in the

door, come up under the plastic

FEATURE ARTICLE

2. Except for the SIPS labeling, the side impact airbags areundetectable.

The 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon, Part 1 (Continued from Front Cover)

3. Using the Under-The-Button tool to open thisvehicle takes a little practice. Basically, work thetool up into the cone shaped button guide of thedoor panel and lift the button.

button tip, to raise the button. The

first time you open this car it may

take a minute or so to come up

under the plastic funnel shaped

cut-out for the linkage rod. (Seephotograph 3.)

Ignition LockThe ignition lock is simple to

remove with a working key. To

remove the lock cylinder for

servicing, you must disassemble

the two-piece plastic shroud that

encases that part of the steering

column. (See photograph 4.) Before

disassembly of the steering it is

important to disconnect the battery

as a precaution, even though you

will not be disassembling the Air-

bag system.

The shroud is held in place with

four screws, two are Torx -25, the

other two are Torx-15. Once the

screws are removed, slide off the

top portion of the shroud and then

slide off the bottom portion on of

the shroud. The steering column is

a d j u s t a b l e f r o m a t i l t t o

telescoping, this will give you

more room to get the shroud off.

(See photograph 5.)

Insert a working key and turn it

to the first or I position. Since this

model uses an active retainer,

insert a 90 degree probe into the

top portion of the lock housing and

then slide out the lock cylinder.

(See photograph 6.)

The lock cylinder retainer is in

the shape of a ‘half-moon.’ If an

undo amount of force was to be

placed on the center portion of the

retainer through the poke-hole, the

retainer would shear and separate.

The lock cylinder would then have

to be destroyed to be removed, this

was designed as an anti-theft

feature. (See photograph 7.)

The lock cylinders, tumblers, and

keys are produced by a company

called “YMOS,” they are located in

the United Kingdom. Ymos makes

locks for several of the other

European car companies also. (Seephotograph 8.)


5. Once the screws are removed, slide the top and then bottom part ofthe shroud off of the column.

4. To gain access to the ignition, remove the two-piece column shroud.


8. The Volvo key and ignition,manufactured by Ymos.

6. Turn the key, depress the retainer and remove the ignition.

7. The specially designed retainer helps prevent theft.

To disassemble the ignition

cylinder, you must remove the

cylinder “wedge.” Use a small

screwdriver to ease the wedge up

from underneath. (See photograph9.) Once the cylinder plug wedge

has been removed, you can slide

the plug out the back of the

cylinder housing. The ignition lock

cylinder consists of the cylinder

housing, cylinder plug, tumblers

and springs, plug wedge and the

two front roller bearings. The

cylinder plug contains all eight

tumblers for a complete key. (Seephotograph 10.)

Door LockThe door lock cylinder is

integrated into the outside door

release handle. (See photograph 11.)

To service the door cylinder it is

not necessary to remove the inside

door panel. It is also not necessary

to have a working key. First

remove the two plastic caps on the

edge of the door. Under the larger

cap you will find two Torx-30

screws. (See photograph 12.)

Remove the Torx screws. The

plug tailpiece fits into a white

plastic turn cam, in the latch

assembly. The handle lever

actuator fits over the round latch

release post. Insert a small flat

tipped screwdriver into the

smaller hole. It will be necessary to

gently manipulate the handle lever

actuator off of the latch release

post. There is enough play in the

components to accomplish this. It

may helpful to use a small light.

(See photograph 13.) Note: The tip of

the tailpiece has a small protrusion

on it, that protrusion should

always face away from the other

side of the handle, as to fit

correctly in the latch assembly.

To remove the cylinder plug

from its housing, insert a small fat

tipped screwdriver into the side of

the handle and separate the wire

clip retainer and slide out the plug.

If you do not have a working key

you can use a space and depth key


9. Remove this small wedgefor lock disassembly.

10. The disassembled ignition lock.


11. Despite having the door lock integrated into the handle, it is notnecessary to remove the inside door panel.

12. After removing the plasticcovers on the door edge, removethe two T30 Torx screws.


13. Use a screw driver to helpdisengage the lock lever actuator offof the latch release post.

14. Insert a small screw driver anda working key to remove the plugfrom the handle.

to walk out the cylinder plug. (Seephotograph 14.) The plug contains

all eight tumblers to make a

complete key.

Whereas it is not necessary to

remove the inside door panel to

service the lock, it may be

necessary to service something else

in the door. To remove the panel

you will need to first remove the

Torx-15 screw located on the

forward lower edge of the door,

this screw is made of plastic. Next,

remove the four Torx-25 screws

located along the very bottom edge

of the panel. Remove the inside

door release handle by firmly

pulling up on it. There is a wide

cloth trim cover located on the

upper section of the door, remove

it by unsnapping it. Behind the

trim piece are two Torx-30 screws

that must be removed. (seephotograph 15.)

Lastly, remove the six screws

that hold in the factory speaker.

Two of the screws are Torx-25 and

the other four are Torx-20. (Seephotograph 16.)

The door with the inside panel

r e m o v e d , i s p i c t u r e d . ( S e ephotograph 17.)

Next Month we will continue

with the Rear Hatch lock, Stowage

lock, Glove Box lock, Tumblers and

Generating a First-Key.


15. Removing the door panel


16. Remove the speaker.

17. The door with the inside panel removed.


1. The old style (right) and the new styleMRD ignition cylinders. Notice how thisnew type has a skirt ring all around cylinderwing nut, and is referred to as the “TopHat” ignition. This addition helps eliminatethe easy use of shims, wires or other devicesfrom being inserted down the side of the lockto put pressure on side bar. Cylinder on theright shows the older style lock without theskirt around the wind nut. Both locks havethe new Strattec MRD system.

3. The portion of the switch that the magnet passes is visiblefrom inside the shell. Also note the two detent pins located at11 o’clock and 5 o’clock position.

FEATURE ARTICLE

Removing A Top Hat MRDNo longer a mystery, the MRD Top Hat is still easy to remove

and sevice.By Frank Markisello

2. With the plug out of the shell, both the sidebar and MRDmagnet can be seen. The top pointer shows the hardened drillresistant side bar. The bottom pointer shows the additionalMRD . When the plug is turned, the magnet rotates past aHall Effect switch attached to the shell of the lock.

DententPins

Switch


6. Once a hole is drilled through the facecap,the side bar pressure tool is used to put pressureon the sidebar. The small, black plastic bushingon the pressure tool is required for proper toolplacement and is part of the update adapter kit.This piece keeps the tool from going too far intothe lock and past the sidebar. It is measured sothat the sidebar pressure section of the tool linesup directly over the sidebar.

With pressure on the sidebar, the lock is thenpicked using the rocker pick supplied with thekit. Once picked, the lock can be removed fromthe vehicle and replaced or a key generated.

5. In removing this particular lock the GM 9Wafer Ignition Removal Tool By AableLocksmith is used. Because the facecap on thisunit is much thinner than the standard ignitionlock, an adapter kit is needed. This same kit isused for the 1995 GM 10-Cut truck ignition.Shown is the drill template and the drill bit andmandrel.

4. The code is stamped on the outer shell usinga dot matrix type pattern. You must look close toread code properly.


7.When the job is complete, a speciallydesigned plug is inserted into the hole ofthe facecap. When done properly, the siteof the hole is almost invisible

8.The complete GM 9 wafer ignitionremoval tool kit and update kit, availablefrom Aable Locksmith, 91-10 Liberty Ave,Ozone Park, NY 11417. Phone 718-847-1377.

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