the 1996 bmw 318i - locksmith marttnlstore.weebly.com/uploads/4/3/7/3/43731111/nlaa_-007.pdf ·...

Publisher's Page ...............................................................page 3

Director's Page ..................................................................page 4

Autoparts ...........................................................................page 5

Check That Check List ....................................................page 6

A Look At The 1995-96 Nissan Quest Locks .............page 11

The 1996 Chevrolet Camaro .........................................page 17

Watch Out for the Other Guy ......................................page 31

The Official Publication of the

NATIONAL LOCKSMITHAUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION™

Summer1996

TM

The 1996 BMW 318iBy Michael Hyde

This issue we take a look at the1996 BMW 318i. From the front end ofthe car it looks like a standard late-model BMW. From the rear it sort oflooks like a Toyota Tercel.

Though you can make a mech-

anical key to the car you will not beable to defeat the transponder system.When each transponder equippedBMW is made there are tentransponder chips made for that car.Once you have gone through those

(Continued on page 33)

FEATURE ARTICLE

1. This model is a two door with a hatchback.

Summer 1996 3

Well the new AutoSmart Update is finally ready! There is tons ofnew information! In fact, once again, the whole book has been

redone.

Therefore, we will supply you with a brand new, entire book as yourupdate. Simply remove your old pages from the binder, and replacewith the whole new book we will send you.

In order or receive your AutoSmart Update for 1996, please pull theintroduction page out of your current version. You must send thatoriginal page to us, along with your check for $45, and we'll send yourupdate. Please include your name and UPS shipping address, no P.O.boxes, and you will then have the latest automotive locksmithinginformation at your fingertips.

At the ALOA show in July, I was surprised by the number of peoplerequesting the update, so I realize how often people refer to theirAutoSmart to work on cars. Mike Hyde's book has quickly become themost often used reference in the industry for automotive locksmiths.

Another thing you might not be aware of is that you can get unlimitedtechnical help by signing up for our E Mail list. Simple send an E Mailto me at [email protected]. Give me your NLAA membership numberand request to be put on the list. Then you can use E Mail for almostany technical question imagineable. All you need is a computer, amodem, and an Internet account.

If you do not currently have an Internet account, visit your localcomputer store, and you'll find everything you need there for under$50.

Once you are on the 'Net, be sure to check out this site on the Web:www.ClearStar.com. You will need a user ID and a password to get intoit. User ID: natllock; password: G5fh84. It's a great site and you will findstuff there from The National Locksmith.

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Marc Goldberg

National Locksmith Automobile Association™

PublisherMarc Goldberg

DirectorGreg Mango

Printed in U.S.A.NLAA, a division of

National Publishing Co.Publishers of

THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH

1533 Burgundy ParkwayStreamwood, Illinois 60107

Phone 630-837-2044Fax 630-837-1210

E-mail address: [email protected]

Unsolicited manuscripts areaccepted, but must include

SASE.© 1996 National Publishing Co.

All Rights Reserved

Summer 1996

AutoSmartUpdate is out!

* VIN Number CodesThere seems to be some confusion

as to the acquisition of key bitting

information. Many of you are under

the impression that you can get a

key bitting from a Vehicle

Information Number (VIN) number,

when calling the NLAA Hotline.

How or why this presumption

occurs, I am not sure. I believe many

of you interpreted the promotional

material for the NLAA that stated:

“Access to the NLAA Code & Car

Hotline...free codes and service info

by phone,” as meaning you could

get a key bitting from a VIN

number. This however, is not the

case.

We do not have the facilities to

provide you with key bitting

information from a VIN number.

The only ones that I am aware of

capable of doing that, is the original

manufacturer. So, if all you have to

work with is a VIN number, you

will need to contact the original

manufacturer and hope you can get

the information. The NLAA will be

unable to provide this information.

If however, you have a key code

but do not have the bitting

information, blank information,

space & depth information etc., etc.,

then the NLAA can help. Maybe not

in every case, - we don’t have every

code known to man - but there is a

good chance we will have the

information you need. If we don’t

have it, we may be able to refer you

to someone who does. For instance,

most of the High Security codes are

un-published. I do have sources

where many of these codes can be

acquired, but this service does carry

a fee. A fee which is not charged by

the NLAA, but by the service

provider. I must stress though, just

because you have a code number

does not guarantee the availability

of spec information.

There is no doubt that acquiring a

key bitting from a code number is a

blessing - it does make life more

pleasant - I wouldn’t however rely

solely on code availability. There are

a number of codes for which there is

no general information available.

The only sure way of making a key

for a lock is the old fashion way -

making it by hand.

* Airbag Update

For the first time ever, opening a

locked vehicle with a door cavity

opening tool may be hazardous to

your business. The reason for this is,

for the first time ever, airbags are

being mounted inside the doors.

They are known as side impact

airbags. The following is a list of

vehicles that are currently equipped

with side impact airbags:

BMW 5 Series: 1996 and up.

BMW 7 Series: 1996 and up.

Cadillac Sedan DeVille Concours:

Scheduled for 1997.

Mercedes “E” Class: 1996 and up.

Mercedes “SL” Class: 1996 and

up.

Mercedes “S” Class: Scheduled for

1997.

Volvo 850: 1995 and up.

Volvo 960: 1995 and up.

The Volvo 850 and 960 are both

equipped with side impact airbags,

but the bags are not actually

mounted in the doors. The Volvo

airbags are mounted in the seat

back. This same type of side impact

airbag system is reported to be

introduced on several Ford vehicles

next year.

I would encourage you to exercise

extreme caution when servicing or

opening any of the above listed

vehicles. The last thing you need is

to shove a car opening tool down

the door of one of these vehicles and

unknowingly disconnect a wire or

airbag connection, preventing its

operation. I would suggest using

another opening method on these

cars until we learn more about them.

There’s one thing for sure, I don’t

believe we need to worry about

police officers opening locked

vehicles anymore, the car

manufacturers are doing a fine job

deterring that activity all by

themselves.

DIRECTOR’SPAGE

GREG MANGO

4 Summer 1996 National Locksmith Automobile Association

Inside Industry NewsBy Michael Hyde

This issue of the NLAA newsletterwe continue with our news about theauto industry.

1996 TAURUS/SABLE P.A.T.S.A reminder that the Ford Taurus

“LX” is the one with PATS. TheMercury Sable “LS” is the one withPATS. On the Taurus & Sable models,if it has PATS there will be an “S” in the8th position in the VIN.

ASP UPDATELooking for the 1996 Auto Security

Products “Application Chart &Instruction Guide”. Don’t. The highcost of printing has put a hold on the1996 catalog. Instead there will be anupdate to the 1995 version and mostlikely a brand new one in 1997.

NISSAN UPDATESome 1996 factory invoices for

Nissan cars and trucks have a “0”instead of a “X” as a prefix for the codenumber. If a dealer says the code is‘01212’, change it to ‘X1212’.

Remember there are three codeseries in use for new Nissans. The morecommon one of X0001-8000. The 1996and up Quest has a code series of0001X-1706X. The Quest is the same asthe Mercury Villager and uses the newFord 8-cut keyway. The third code-series is 001-22185, for the newPathfinder.

LEXUS BATTERIESJust in case you were wondering, the

replacement battery for the Lexusoriginal remote keys is: Eveready#1216.

1997 LINCOLN MARK VIIIThe 1997 Mark VIII will have the

new Ford 8-Cut keyway with aTransponder. The new transpondersystem on the Mark will notinterchange with Ford transponders.That’s right, you will need to buy even

more keys, that you may or may notuse.

CHRYSLER MINIVANSChryslers new re-designed minivans

have two sliding doors. Some havelocks in the sliding doors and somedon’t. Be careful when you quote thisrekey job. FYI: 85% of the newminivans have two sliding doors, only15% made have a single sliding door.

G.M. VANS There will be a new set of vans at

G.M. dealers in 1997. The full-size“Chevy EXPRESS” and the “GMCSAVANA”. They will be using the newGM 10-cut locks.

There will be a new minivan as well.It will be called the Chevrolet“VENTURE”. It also will have the GM10-cut keyway and it will have modelswith 2 sliding doors.

HYUNDAIHave you noticed the shrinking

Hyundai dealers in your neck of thewoods. There use to be 5 Hyundaidealers in my area of California, nowthere is 1. The remaining dealer saidhe’s giving up his store at the end of1996. I wouldn’t expect Hyundai to bearound much at all in a couple of years.

ACURAAcura model “3.5 RL” has a

transponder in the key. Code series:5001-8442. The code-series is the sameas all late model Acura/Hondaproducts. The system is similar to theFord Euro system. The car is suppliedwith an additional key called theprogramming key. The color of the keyis red. The only company at the presenttime making keys or equipment is Silca.The Silca keyblank number“HON58RT2”

MITSUBISHI KEYSIn Europe there is a new key for

Mitsubishi, its a 2-track High Securitykey with a transponder. The 2-trackkeyway is the same as the Volvo 2-track, also found in Europe. Do youhave Volvo 2-track keys on your shelf?Why? The cars with 2-track keywayswere never imported to the USA.

KIA UPDATE1. Wondering why your Ilco or

Curtis “KK2” keyblanks don’t work onthe automatic transmission KiaSportage? Simple! They are two short.Curtis recently sent out replacementblanks to anybody who had boughttheir earlier versions. Thank YouCurtis. I just wish Ilco would dosomething like that. 2. Be careful whenworking on the Kia Sportage, somemodels now have “KNEE AIRBAGS”for the drivers side.

FORD 8-CUT KEYBLANKSThe early versions of Ilco and Curtis

8-cut metal head keyblanks were madewrong. The angle on the tip is wrongand therefor won’t go all the way intothe door locks. But Ilco doesn’t tell youthat. No. They tell you, the consumer,to modify the tip angle yourself. Whydon’t they modify the keyblank for youand have them pay the shipping too!!

INFINITI UPDATEWell there is finally going to be a new

Q45 this fall. Early reports say it willcontinue to have the 4-track keyway,code series 0001-6001. Only the first2000 codes have been published. TheJapanese market version will be calledthe “CIMA”.

MERCEDES “A” CLASSThere is a new Mercedes on the way

in a few months, called the “A140”,“A160”, “A170”. It is a sub-compact car.Is has some unique safety designs.

National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer 1996 5

“He’s makin’ a list, and

c h e c k i n ’ i t t w i c e ,

gonna find out who’s naughty

or nice,” ... While those may

be the words to a song we all

know and recognize, it also

holds a subliminal message

for locksmiths doing auto-

motive service. I don’t think

there is a service person in

any field that at one time or

other has not heard a

customer say, “It wasn’t like

that before!”

It is for that very reason that

this article serves it’s purpose.

If the locksmith is prepared to

rebuff the customer ’s state-

ment of “It wasn’t like that

before,” with facts substan-

tiating that he did take the

necessary steps to inspect all

areas concerning his work,

there is very little room for an

argument. Not only can this

situation be ugly as far as

customer relation’s, but it can

lead to a costly repair if it is

out of the locksmith’s area of

expertise.

No matter how routine a

simple checklist may seem,

b e i n g p re p a re d w i t h t h e

a n s w e r s t o a c u s t o m e r ’ s

q u e s t i o n s w i l l b e a n i n -

valuable tool.

Saginaw steering columns

a r e p r o b a b l y t h e m o s t

complicated and require the

removal of the most parts as

compared to a Ford column or

a C h r y s l e r c o l u m n w i t h

Accustar Ignition. Saginaw

b u i l d s t h e c o l u m n s f o r

General Motors and have seen

some drastic changes over the

last few years. For this article

w e a re g o i n g t o u s e t h e

standard, round Saginaw

column.

When making a first key for

a General Motors vehicle,

disassembly down to the lock

cylinder for code retrieval

m a y s e e m l i k e a ro u t i n e

o p e r a t i o n . I t i s w h e n a

l o c k s m i t h b e c o m e s c o m -

placent with such a routine

operation that costly over-

sights can happen.

Let’s start from the be-

ginning. A simple inspection

of the work area will reveal

any tears in the upholstery or

cracks in the plastic shrouds

surrounding the steering

column. Make note of any


Check That Check ListBy Tom Mazzone

1. Inverted torx screws.

missing screws retaining the

horn pad or any broken clips

if i t is a cl ip retained horn

pad. Check the horn for

operation.

Before disassembly, place an

uncut key blank in the

ignition lock cylinder, open

the door and see if the key

buzzer is operable. This step

will save you from time

consuming disassembly and

diagnostics if the problem was

already pre-existing.

Another common problem

that seems to be an issue after

a steering column repair is

that a customer complains

that the entire upper bowl

assembly is loose and moves

side to side. This is due to the

four inverted Torx screws that

hold the upper and lower lock

housing in place have become

loose over time, (see Photo-graph 1). A big reason for this

happening is that the driver

will use the steering wheel as

a handle to help themselves in

and out of the vehicle. Grasp

the steering wheel firmly and

see i f there is any play or

looseness in the lower column

assembly. Make sure that the

ti l t feature holds at al l

posit ions. Advise your

customer of these problems

prior to your repair and tell

them that your work keeps

you above this service area. If

your skill level can take you

deeper into this repair, then

you now have the opportunity

to upsell your job ticket.

Again, before beginning any

disassembly, take hold of the

steering wheel and see if the

wheel will move out of the

lock posit ion. This wil l

indicate that one or more of

the grooves that the lock bolt

f i ts into maybe worn or

stripped out preventing the

wheel from locking in position

once the key is turned off. Sell

the customer a new lock plate

if needed, (see Photograph 2).

Check to see if the radio has

a factory theft deterrent

system built into it. GM radios

with Delco Theft Lock have a

red warning light on the face

of the radio, (see Photograph 3).If the vehicle has a powered

up battery and the theft

deterrent is armed, you will

see a flashing red light. This

means that a secret code has

been input into the radio’s

memory and will be necessary

to be reprogrammed if battery

power is removed. Removal of

the battery cables is required

when doing any type of

steering column service on

vehicles equipped with an air

bag.

Ask your customer if they

know the code and explain to

them that their radio will go

into a locked mode and the

radio will display “LOC” on

the face once power is

restored. It is a must when

working with SIR/SRS

systems to remove power and

wait the recommended

period.

If the customer is not sure or

does not know the unlock

code, this can be done by

having the customer return to

the dealer to have qualified

personnel use the factory

unlock procedure in the shop

manual. The National

Locksmith Guide to Steering

Column Service details this

procedure on unlocking this

type of radio as well as the

procedure for Delco Loc 1 and

Delco Loc II.


3. Theft Lock radio.2. Damaged lock plate.

It is always best to advise

the customer before a

situation l ike this occurs.

Some customers are very

uncomfortable driving with-

out their radio and if they are

on a busy work schedule that

does not allow them time to

get to a dealer for the unlock

procedure, you can be sure of

a dissatisfied customer. The

customer may also expect you

to assume the labor charge at

the dealership for unlocking

the radio if they are not told

what to expect in advance.

As you can see, there are

many items to check before

we even take our tools out of

our service vehicles. Common

sense and good commun-

ication with the customer is a

must in automotive lock-

smithing. After the horn pad

is removed, take note if there

is a jam type upper steering

shaft nut retaining the

steering wheel or a nut that

uses a snap ring to keep it

from backing all the way off,

(see Photograph 4).

If there was not a snap ring,

and it should have one,

beware. This could mean that

someone has been in the

column already and there is

no telling what lies ahead. Be

sure that when completing

your service that you install a

snap ring where the missing

ring was. Check to make sure

that the end of the upper

steering shaft has not been

mushroomed by a

hammer blow, (seePhotograph 5).

As you compress

the lockplate and

remove the

external snap ring,

observe the upper

steering shaft .

Take notice i f i t

appears to fal l

down into the

lower steering

shaft housing.

General Motors

uses a collapsible

steering shaft

assembly with

injection molded


4. Steering shaft jam nut and snap ringretained nut.

5. Mushroomed steering shaft.

nylon shear pins. These pins

are designed to shear on

impact, allowing the column

to collapse, minimizing the

injury to the driver.

I f a steering wheel is

removed without the use of an

approved puller, i .e . a

hammer blow to the steering

shaft while pulling up on the

steering wheel, there is the

risk of the shaft collapsing.

The only thing, then, holding

the shaft in place is the

external snap ring onto the

lock plate. If the snap ring is

removed and the upper shaft

falls into the lower shaft, it

tells us that the steering shaft

assembly should be replaced

for safety reasons.

If we must complete repairs

so the customer can get his

vehicle to an authorized

dealer for this extensive

service replacement, it could

be a real struggle to get the

shaft back up into place.

Occasionally, the upper

bearing will separate when

trying to put the vehicle back

into temporary service. These

bearings are part of the GM

steering rack and sector

service kit and should be kept

in stock just for safety’s sake.

As the lock plate is removed

and the turn signal switch is

now exposed, a close

inspection of this switch must

be made. Be sure that there

are two coiled springs present

in the switch assembly. There

is one on the top and one on

the bottom, (see Photograph 6).

The spring on the top

controls the cancel of the

switch after a right turn is

complete and the bottom

spring controls the cancel of

the switch after a left turn is

complete. Inspect the switch

at the spring mounting area

for cracks or fat igue and

advise the customer. Also, if

either one of these springs is

missing, they are available as

a service part through the

dealer providing that there

isn’t damage to the turn signal

switch assembly.

Carefully lift the turn signal

switch out of the way and

remove the key buzzer

actuator assembly. Inspect this

assembly closely. This is a

normally open switch which

allows the key buzzer to

chime when a tab from the

ignition lock closes the legs of

the contacts completing the

circuit. Watch for cracks in the

plastic or broken, bent, or


6. Turn signal switch springs.

7. Key buzzer switch inspection.

missing contacts, (see Photo-graph 7).

I f t h e v e h i c l e y o u a r e

working on is an older GM car

without SIR/SRS or any

specialized electronics, you

may not have removed the

battery. If this is the case and

you did not check the key

buzzer operation prior to

disassembly, you can easily

c h e c k t h e k e y b u z z e r

operation by completing the

circuit between the green and

brown wires on the back side

of the turn signal switch. This

is where the two copper

contacts from the buzzer

actuator switch assembly

draw their power. Jump the

two leads and the buzzer will

chime if all is well internally

within the system, (seePhotograph 8).

Of course, before starting

the column reassembly, be

sure that the lock cylinder

does not exhibit high effort

when turning the key. This

could indicate a bent or

damaged ignit ion switch

actuator rod or a lock bolt

spring that is binding with the

rack and sector gear in the

upper lock housing.

R e v e r s e o r d e r f o r r e -

assembly keeping an eye out

for any other possible hidden

problems. When reassembly is

complete, check the operation

of the turn signals and the

four-way flashers. Also, if the

vehicle has SIR/SRS system,

make sure the indicator lamp

flashes seven to nine times

and then goes out. This tells

the customer that the vehicle’s

air bag system is functioning

properly. This is monitored

every t ime the vehicle is

c y c l e d t h r o u g h “ s w i t c h

ignition.” You can leave your

customer confident with your

work by letting them know

that the vehicle’s on-board

c o m p u t e r i s c o n s t a n t l y

m o n i t o r i n g t h e s y s t e m ’ s

status.

Ta k e g r e a t c a r e w h e n

reinstalling the lower knee

bolster. On vehicles equipped

with SIR/SRS, this panel is

designed to help minimize

what is call “submarining”.

This is when, on a frontal

coll is ion, that the driver ’s

forward motion is sufficient

enough to carry him forward

even though the air bag has

stopped his upper body’s

forward motion. This is why

these lower knee bolsters, as

they are referred to, are

padded. One can see, knowing

these panel’s purpose, that

t h e s e p a n e l s s h o u l d b e

properly remounted.

While al l this may seem

extremely complicated, this

information can be formatted

into a daily routine and can

become second nature to the

locksmith. While many other

ideas could be added to this

article, it’s purpose is to keep

the locksmith observant at all

t i m e s . G o o d c u s t o m e r

communication skills are as

c r i t i c a l a s t h e p r o d u c t

k n o w l e d g e . L e a v i n g t h e

situation better than when we

found it, as well as staying

profitable, should be our

goals. Losing customers and

costly repairs that were not

our direct fault is something

that we can avoid if we stay

focused and keep our skills

sharp.


8. The caption for the photos go in this box. Sometimes one liners, two ormaybe even three.

We are going to take a look at the locksets on the new Nissan Quest. The locks on the 1996-’97Nissan Quest are the same as the new Mercury Villager. The locks are made by Strattec and use

the new Ford 8-cut keyway.

A Look At The 1995-1996 Nissan Quest Locks

By Michael Hyde


IGNITION LOCK SERVICING

2. It is very important to remember to remove the keybuzzer switch prior to removal of the lock cylinder,otherwise the switch will get damaged. There are twophillips-head screws that hold it on.

3. The active retainer is on the side of the housing.

1. The ignition lock assembly attaches to the steeringcolumn just like a lot of Japanese ignition locks.Lucky for us though it is not necessary to remove thewhole assembly.

4. Insert a working key and rotate the cylinder to the“ON” position and depress the retainer. SLOWLY slidethe lock cylinder out of the housing. The key buzzeractuator lever spring will come flying out if you arenot careful. Remove the spring.

A Look At The 1995-1996 Nissan Quest Locks


5. The lock cylinder is now being removed from thesteering column housing.

6. Notice the key buzzer actuator lever spring as it sitson the lever.

7. On other 8-cut models it is necessary to remove theactive retainer, not on this model.

8. The plug will slide out and then you will find a smallball bearing and spring in the forward section of thecylinder plug housing.

9. Also, be careful of the metal key buzzer actuatorfrom falling out.

10. The ignition lock uses a side-bar. The plugcontains 7 tumblers in positions 2 through 8.


11. The lock cylinder disassembled.

12. The ignition plug detent has a clever littlecap on it for what appears to be easy loading.Remove the cap, insert the cylinder plug, loadthe ball bearing, load the spring and replacethe cap.

13. The difference between the ignition lock tumblersis where the notch for the side bar is. The location ofthe notch determines the tumbler depth.


14. Servicing the doors, sliding door and rear hatchlocks is the same procedure. For this article we willuse the door lock. The exterior locks are pictured.

DOOR, SLIDER, & REAR HATCH LOCKSERVICING

15. It is possible to “read” the tumblers through thelarge drain hole opening.

16. To disassemble the door lock you will need toremove the face cap, tailpiece and wiring switch.

17. The wiring switch can go back on in severalpositions, it is important to mark the pieces.

18. The new 8-cut design uses a modular type of dustshutter.


19. Something new is a detent in the exterior locks.

20. The door, sliderand rear hatch lockcontain six tumblersin positions 1through 6.

21. A view of the door lockdisassembled. The face capreplacement part number fromStrattec is #322535.


22. The tumblers used in theexterior locks such as thedoors, slider and rear hatchlock have to be “rocked” backand forth for removal orinserting.

KEYS AND KEYING KIT

23. The Nissan version of the key has the typicalNissan bow to it. The actual keyway is the newFord 8-cut. The codes are also of the 8-cut design.The code series runs from 0001X through 1706X.The Strattec original keyblank part number is #596862 plastic head & 322352 metal head.

24. The Strattec part number fortheir new Ford 8-cut keying kit is#703373. The keying kit has a lotof needed replacement parts.The kind of parts that are easilylost when disassembling a lock.You do not need to worry aboutlost parts if you have this keyingkit.


1996 Chevrolet CamaroBy Michael Hyde

1. The Camaro andCamaro Convertible,seems to be a favoritewith some of the rentalcar companies. TheCamaro is also equippedwith an AIRBAG. TheCamaro uses the singlesided VATS system forthe primary key and thestandard G.M. “H”keyway, found onseveral late model G.M.products, for thesecondary key.

This time out we take a look at the 1996 Chevy Camaro. This car is made alongside with thePontiac Firebird.

2. To open this car we used two wedges and ahorizontal slide linkage tool. Insert the tool a fewinches past the door handle, on the passenger side ofthe car, towards the front of the car.

OPENING TECHNIQUEOPENING TECHNIQUE

3. Insert the tool straight down and make contact withsecond horizontal linkage rod, bind the linkage rod andslide it forward to unlock the car.


4. This car is equipped with an AIRBAG and VATSsystem (PASSKEY II). To service the ignition it will benecessary to remove the Airbag & steering wheel.

IGNITION SERVICEIGNITION SERVICE

5. To remove the Airbag, you will need to loosen thefour machine thread bolts, located on the back side ofthe steering wheel. Two bolt on each side. The boltswill not come all the way out, but need to be loosenedevenly. This will require a TORX #30 driver.

Before you do anything more, you must

disconnect the battery. I strongly recommend

taping the terminals, thus preventing someone

else from coming along and re-connecting the

terminals. You must wait at least 25 minutes

before removing the Airbag after the battery

has been disconnected. This waiting time will

allow the Airbag computer capacitor to drain

down. While waiting, I suggest making the

secondary key to occupy your time.

6. The Airbag has a special type of connector on it. Theconnector has a colored keeper, preventing theconnector from uncoupling. Remember when re-assembling to re-install the keeper. Place the Airbag ina locked container, such as the trunk, for safetyreasons.

7. Place a steering wheel pulleron the wheel as you would any

other G.M. column, just bemindful of the Airbag wiring.

Do not tighten the puller boltsany farther than five turns.


8. After you have loosenedthe wheel remove the springloaded horn wire connector.Also be careful as you slide

the Airbag wires through thesteering wheel.

9. A view of the steering column with the yellow andblack Airbag “clock-spring” device exposed.

10. Remove the tru-arc ring that holds the device inplace. Gently pull outward on the device and let hangout of the way. As long as you do not turn the innersection of the “clock-spring” device you can re-install itwithout further complications.

11. It will be necessary to remove the emergencyflasher switch with a small phillips-head screwdriver.

12. Under the “clock-spring” device is a ‘wave’ washer.


14. Next slide off the plastic horn ring.

13. Under the wave washer is the standardG.M. compression plate ring. Use acompression plate tool to push down on theplate allowing you to remove the ring.

15. A view of the column with the compression plateremoved.

16. Remove the turn signal arm screw. 17. Remove the three Torx screws from the turn signalassembly.


18. Slide the turn signal assembly toward you and outof the way. Take your time and be careful.

19. Take special note of where theVATS wires are located. It is importantthe wires are resting in the exact samespot as you found them. The keybuzzer slides out easily to gain accessto the lock cylinder retaining bolt.

20. Remove the Torx bolt thatholds in the ignition lock

cylinder and gently pull it outto see if there is a code on it.This cylinder had two sets of

numbers on it, one is the codenumber. Some production line

ignition cylinders DO NOT havea code on them.


21. A view of the ignition switch removed from thecolumn.

If your intention was to replace the cylinder

or disassemble it to make a key, then you

would have to disconnect the other end of the

orange wiring connector and feed it through

the column. This can be a tricky task. You can

not pull on the wiring with any force or the

wires will break. The wires are flexible, but

very delicate. Tape another wire to the end of

the connector to allow you to feed it back

through the column.

22. To disassemble the lock it will be necessary togently remove the stop ring on the back of the cylinderplug. Gently wedge it from side to side evenly, or thering will break.

23. You must remove thecylinder plug keeper to allowthe cylinder plug to slide out ofthe housing. Insert a pin punchtap out the keeper. The plugwill now slide out of thehousing without a key.


24. The ignition lockcylinder disassembled andthe cylinder plug.

DOOR LOCK SERVICINGDOOR LOCK SERVICING

25. A view of the outside door lock and handle. 26. To service the door cylinder it will be necessary toremove the door panel first.

27. Remove the two phillips head screws on the doorpull cavity.

28. Remove the phillips head screw next to the insidedoor handle.


29. Remove the two phillips head screws on the side ofthe door pull. One screw is exposed and one isrecessed in the door pull.

30. The inside door handle trim cover needs to beremoved, it unsnaps.

31. Once you get the trimcover ajar, you need todisconnect the power windowand power door controls.

32. The manual lock lever needsto be disconnected also.


33. A view of the trim coverremoved from the door panel.

34. The door panel uses hooks inside of the morecommon push in plastic clips. You must lift up on thepanel to remove it.

35. A view of the door with the door panel removed.

36. A view of the door lock cylinder asit sits in the door. The lock is held tothe door by a horseshoe clip. One ofthe nice things about several latemodel G.M. cars is that they use aplastic easy-to-use linkage rod clip.


37. The lock cylinder is pictured with its long tailpiece.

38. To service the lock cylinder you must remove theface cap and the retainer on the tailpiece to slide theplug out of its housing. The replacement face capnumber from Strattec is #322658.39. The complete door lock cylinder disassembled.

40. A view of the trunk lock.

TRUNK LOCK SERVICINGTRUNK LOCK SERVICING

41. The door panel uses hooks instead of the morecommon push-in plastic clips. You must lift up on thepanel to remove it.


42. To get to the front of thelock cylinder you must removeboth taillight assemblies andthe center trim body panel. Thebody panel is held to the bodyof the car by four 8mm nuts.The taillight assemblies areheld to the body of the car byfour large plastic nuts. Becareful when removing thenuts as they can fall downinside the cavities of the bodypanels, never to be seen again.That is why one of them ismissing in the photograph.

43. The lock cylinder is held tothe sheet metal body of the car

by two aluminum rivets.

46. A view of the trunk lockcylinder removed from the car.Notice the long tailpiece.

45. You must drill out the rivets toget the lock out. Secure the lockcylinder back in place by either

new rivets or bolts.


44. A view of thebackside of the lockcylinder.

47. Notice that this lock uses what isreferred to as a ‘stove top’ face cap.

The tabs of the cap are bent over theprotrusions in the lock cylinder

housing.

48. To remove the cylinder plug you will need to insertthe working key and rotate the cylinder plug to removeit. If you do not have a working key then you can drill asmall hole in the cylinder housing and put pressure onthe side bar while you ‘rake’ the tumblers.

49. A view of the trunk lock cylinder disassembled.


GLOVE BOX LOCKGLOVE BOX LOCK

50. The glove boxcylinder is easily

serviced whenremoved from the

glove box door.

51. There are two8mm bolts that mustbe removed to getthe lock out of theglove box door.There are places forthree bolts but onlytwo are used.

52. The cylinder plug must berotated to the locked positionand then while picking thecylinder you must depress theretainer tumbler so as to rotatethe cylinder even more forremoval. The cylinder plugmust pass the ward in thelatch/lock housing before it canslide out. Remember the latchitself must be in the closedposition to allow the plug toturn. A view of the ward isshown.

53. The cylinder plug contains four tumblersin positions 3 through 6.

OEM PARTS:

The keying kit from Strattec

(formerly Briggs & Stratton) is

part number #608771. The

ignition cylinder part number is

#700754. The door lock service

package part number is #702266.

The trunk lock cylinder service

package is #700508. The glove

box cylinder plug is part

#380784. The glove box lock

latch housing part number is

#700984.

Method #1 Call Chevy

Road-side for the key codes.

PRIMARY KEY

Method #2 Remove Igni-

tion lock and read code stamped

on lock, and make primary key.

SECONDARY KEY

Method #3 Remove glove

box lock, disassemble to get the

4 out of the 6 cuts necessary to

make a working secondary key,

in positions 3 through 6.

Here is a GM progression

chart for making a completed

key when you have 4 of 6 cuts.

If the 4 known cuts equal a

even number:

If the unknown cuts are next

to a:

1 = 1st key-11,13, 33 / 2nd key-

22,42,53 / 3rd key-31.

2 = 1st key-11,22,24,44 / 2nd

key-13,33,53 / 3rd key-31.

3= 1st key-11,31,42,53,55 /

2nd-13,33,35 / 3rd key-22,24,44.

4 = 1st key-22,24,44,55 / 2nd

key-13,33,35 / 3rd key-42,53.

5 = 1st key-13,33,53,55 / 2nd

key-24,44 / 3rd key-35.

If the 4 known cuts equal an

odd number:

If the unknown cuts are next

to a:

1 = 1st key-12,32,43 / 2nd key-

21,23

2 = 1st key-12,32,43 / 2nd key-

21,23

3 = 1st key-12,32,43,45 / 2nd

key-21,23,34,54

4 = 1st key-12,32,34,54 / 2nd

key-23,43,45

5 = 1st key-23,43,45 / 2nd key-

34,54


As we all know, before

y o u ’ re o n ro u t e t o a

lockout call, you should review

your technical manual and

check your corresponding tools

in preparation for a successful

lockout call. But what’s the first

thing you should do upon

arrival to the job site? Insure no-

o n e e l s e h a s

attempted opening

the vehicle before

you arrived.

There are a host of

w a y s t o a v o i d

paying for another

person’s mistakes,

yet there is one way

i n p a r t i c u l a r t o

check for previous

opening attempts.

Obviously, you can

simply ask your

customer if some-

one else has tried to

open their vehicle.

But, why take the

chance of trapping

your customer into

an embarrassing

s i t u a t i o n w h e n

there is a fool proof

w a y t o d e t e c t

someone else’s un-

successful opening

attempt.

Work on any vehicle or any

project for any length of time

and you will quickly notice the

traces of finger prints and dirt

left on the area worked upon.

Dirt will always be present after

an unsuccessful opening. Even

t h e s u c c e s s f u l , e f f o r t l e s s

opening will leave minor traces.

It’s the unsuccessful attempts

with which we are concerned.

T h e y l e a v e t h e g r e a t e s t

evidence along with a higher

incidence of damage. Your job is

to simply get into the habit of

looking for the evidence before

you start the job. Once you’ve

entered your tool down into the

Watch Out for the Other Guy...A flat bar tool may have been used before you got to the job site.

by Scott D. Selby

Flat bar tools are still being used by the uninformed. They cause more trouble thanthey're worth. Very few models within the past 10 years should be attempted withtheir use.


door cavity, you have little

recourse in defending where

your responsibility begins and

ends.

The tell tale signs of dirt

originate from the window

rolling up and down. This traps

the dirt between the glass and

the weather-stripping. When a

tool is forced in and out of a

d o o r c a v i t y, t h e d i r t i s

transferred onto the visible

glass. It most always is in the

form of vertical streaks jetting

up from the weather-strip.

The amount of tracks you

observe generally indicate the

intensity the person before you

put forth in getting that vehicle

opened.

On occasion, you’ll be in the

awkward position to witness

sign of aimless probing on the

length of each window on all

four doors. That’s an extreme

case of serious determination,

but it happens and usually to

those who “wing it” without

using a professional lockout

system containing all of the

required tools that match their

current technical manual. Those

who are unprepared are the

ones that generate the stories of

all linkages being knocked off

and a host of other compli-

cations and damage.

I f y o u f a i l t o d o t h e

preliminary inspection, you

m a y w o n d e r w h y y o u r

technical manual’s instruction

method wasn’t working as

directed. It could be that the

mechanism you’re attempting

to manipulate has already been

disabled. The more time you

spend trying to open an already

disabled system, the more

convinced your customer is that

you’re the one who caused the

problem.

A pre-opening checklist is

v i t a l . A l w a y s n o t e t h e

following:

* Dirt tracks or streaks.

* 3 years or older vehicle

(With 40,000 - 50,000 lockouts

per day in this country, chances

are this vehicle has had the keys

locked up before and pre-

existing damage conditions

may apply.)

* Deteriorating weather-

stripping (Look for marred or

cracked areas , indica t ion

previous entry with a lockout

tool.)

* Inoperative door handle

(This indicates that the linkage

has been disconnected, possible

by a previous opening attempt.)

* Do not work on a damaged

door, even if your technical

manual advises you to use that

particular door.

When you’re armed with the

knowledge of a previous

attempt, you can always discuss

the options with your customer.

Point out the problems before

you begin the job and, if

necessary, have a damage

release form signed by your

customer. This at least makes

them aware of the situation and

you won’t be blamed for a pre-

existing condition.

Look for the signs! As the

saying goes, “ An ounce of

prevention is worth a pound of

cure.”

Scott Selby is the technicalresearcher of the Grand Master Z-Tools System. For a free, full colorcatalog demonstrating modernautomotive lockout tooling andtheir accessories contact: Slide LockTool Company at 1166 Topside Rd.Louisville, TN 37777 or call tollfree: 1-800-336-8812.


ten chips it will be time to buy a new“control unit” for the car.

The control unit and four newkeys runs about $211.00 That doesnot include labor to install the newcontrol unit. If you need to replacethe locks and buy a new control unitis would cost about $700.00 Thatdoes not include labor. Expect thejob at the dealer to cost about $1500.OPENING:

This car is equipped with a cleververtical linkage locking system. This

system is sometimes referred to as“deadlocks”. Once the car has beenlocked with the key or locked withthe factory remote it will activate thedeadlocks. If the lock button is justpushed down the deadlocks will notactivate. When the car is deadlockedthe vertical button is changed towhat I call “spring action mode”.Pulling up on the vertical buttonwhile in spring action mode will notopen the car.

The deadlocking control unit sitsdirectly on top of the latch assembly

in each door. Therefor entry throughthe door is not easily done if at allwithout damage to the doorcomponents.

There is another way into the carother than the doors. See the sectionon “Rear Hatch Lock” servicing, laterin this article for the procedure.IGNITION:

Insert a working key into the lockand rotate it to the first accessoryposition and then insert a wireprobe, (about the size of 1/16 inch

FEATURE ARTICLE

The 1996 BMW 318i (Continued from Front Cover)

2. The car is equipped with a sophisticatedTransponder system and a 4-Track High Securitykeyway.

4. To pull the ignition remove the screws that hold thelower section of the column shroud. A view of theunderside of the column with the shroud removed canbe seen here.

3. The ignition cylinder has a black plastic ring aroundit. That ring is part of the transponder system.

5. This may take a couple of tries since the lockretainer is a large one and it is a snug fit.


IGNITION LOCK

by 3 inches long) into the retaineraccess hole on the face of thelock. The wire probe should havea rounded tip to make it easier togo all the way into the lock andmake contact with retainer andpull it down.

There are two delicate wiresthat attach to the transponderring, be extremely careful whenremoving the ring.

I recommend replacing thecylinder instead of recoding it.The lock has a large solidhardened ring on the front of itand a plug keeper in the back ofthe lock.

6. The ring snaps on and unsnapping itis very difficult.

7. It would be easier toreplace the lock, thanto recode it.

8. The door lock plug is interrogatedinto the outside door handle. To

service the door lock cylinder is atricky procedure on this car. Thewhole unit must be removed for

servicing.

9. The door panel is pictured above.


DOOR LOCK

12. Remove theTorx screw in thelower portion ofthe door pull.

13. Remove the inside doorrelease trim plate by gently pullingon the top portion of it.

14. This panel uses the popular plastic push-in doorpanel clips. The clips are basically glued onto the backside of the panel and can easily tear off. 15. A view of the door with the panel removed. Be

careful when removing the panel as to the delicatespeaker wires.

11. Remove the Torx screw that is located in the doorpull, behind the cap you just removed.

10. To remove the door panel, remove the plastic trimcap on the uppermost section of the inside door pull.


17. The wiringfrom the doorlock/handleassembly has tobe disconnected.Simply twist theconnectorclockwise torelease it fromthe bracket.

16. A view of the door with the air and dust liner pulledout of the way.

18. It makes iteasier to servicethe lock/handleassembly if you

remove the rightside window track.

There is a 10mmbolt that has to beremoved. Then the

track will slidedown and out.

19. Loosen the bolts that hold the latch assembly on.

20. The outside door handle interlocks with the latchmechanism. The door lock linkage rod is a rigid oneand very short. The door lock linkage rod willdisconnect from the latch assembly end.


21. The trim cover has to be removed from thelock/handle assembly. In order to do this you mustremove the plastic plug on the edge of the door.Insert a screwdriver and push on the locking slideto release the trim cover.

22. A view of the assemblyremoved, showing you the lockingslide that needs to be pushed in.

23. The cover will then pop right off. 24. Remove the large nut that sits on the lock cylinder,it is usually not very tight.


25. Remove the fastener on the back of the handleassembly that holds the post in place. Then slide the postout.

26. A front view of the door lock/handle assembly afterremoval.

27. A rear view of the same door lock/handle assembly.

28. Remove the micro-switch from the doorlock assembly.



29. Use a pin punch toremove the tensionpin on the back of thelock that holds thetailpiece on.

30. Be careful not to lose the tailpiece spring.

31. The lockcylinder plugwill now slideright out, youdo not need akey to removethe cylinderplug.

32. A view of the cylinder plug and tailpiece out of thehandle assembly.

33. A close-up view of the cylinder plug. The plugcontains 12 tumblers and a key trap tumbler.

The rear hatch lock is of the type that whenlocked, it will push in but not engage the latch.

As you can see the lock must come out thehatch from the inside. To open this car if it weredeadlocked would be rather simple. As you willsee in the following photographs, there is athreaded linkage rod that goes from the lockcylinder directly down to the latch mechanism.However, to reach the linkage rod you wouldhave to drill a small hole in the sheet metal bodypanel. The good news is that the license platecovers the area you would need to drill.

34. A look at the latchand deadlock controlmodule.

35. When re-installing the handle/lockassembly, it is very difficult to re-attach thelock linkage rod to the latch assembly. Theconnector on the latch always slides downand is hidden in the connector cavity. Sincethere is already a hole in the latch housingbehind the connector, I put a screw in thathole to hold up the connector until I couldattach the linkage rod.(Remember to tightenthe latch unit bolts when you are done.)

36. The lock cylinder sits in the middle of the hatch lid.


REAR HATCH LOCK


37. The area between the license plate boltsholes and right of the lock about an inch,

would be the target area. Drill a small enoughhole to get your smallest screwdriver in and

lift upward on the linkage rod. Most of the rodin the target area is threaded, so the

screwdriver shouldn’t slip off the rod.

38. The rear hatch insidepanel must be removed toservice the lock cylinder.There are two screws andtwo plastic panel fasteners.

39. The lock cylinder isheld in by two 10mmbolts. Disconnect the

linkage rods andremove the lock

cylinder.

40. A view of the backside of therear hatch lock removed from thecar. The first thing you need to do todisassemble the lock is remove theretaining clip on the tailpiece. Pleasenote the position of the tailpiece forre-assembly.

41. Once you have removed theretaining clip, tailpiece and tailpiece

spring, the next part to remove is thelarge spring keeper. Push down on thekeeper and rotate it in either directionto an opening in the housing that will

allow it to release. Be careful not toget hit in the eye with the spring.

42. A view of the cylinder plug, plug cam,tailpiece, tailpiece spring, retaining clip, largespring keeper and large spring.



43. There a small spring (like atailpiece spring) on the large end ofthe plug housing. Make a note of it.

The chrome cap on the plug must beremoved to get at the plug. The caphas been stamped in two opposing

locations. Instead of sticking a smallscrewdriver between the cap and the

body of the plug and trying to forcethe cap over the place where it was

stamped, drill a small hole right downthe center of the stamping. Use a

7/64” drill bit, it works well.

44. The cap will nowslide right off. When re-

installing the cap,rotate the cap in a

different position andmake new stamps into

the plug cap.

45. You do not need a key to removethe cylinder plug, it will slide out of thehousing. Beware of the small detentspring and ball bearing. When re-assembling the plug into the plughousing, you can use one of the spotswhere the cap was stamped to reloadthe spring and ball bearing.

GLOVE BOX:This model has no glove box lock.

MAKING FIRST KEY:

You will only be able to make a mechanical key, the key you make will not start the car because of the transpondersystem.

Note: Must have High Security key machine and Space & Depth Guide Keys.

Method #1 Order new key from dealer.

Method #2 Disassemble rear hatch lock and decode. This will get you the first 8 of the 12 cuts. For positions 1L, 1R, 2L, 2R, 3L, 3R, 4L & 4R. Progress the remaining cuts in the door lock.

Note: There is never a number four depth in the last four positions (5L, 5R, 6L & 6R). The last four cuts always add up to a total of 7 or 9.

Method #3 Disassemble door lock and decode tumblers to make master mechanical key.

46. A view of the cylinder plug, plug housing, plug cap,rubber “O” ring, plug housing spring, detent springand detent ball bearing.

47. A close-up view of the cylinder plug. It contains 8tumblers.


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