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waterbrook winerychef bobby moore of barking frog watercolor artist gary king

ancient lakes of

columbia valley

Spring Barrel

roundupPage 14

EntEr to WIn aWalla WallaGEtaWay Page 55

Wine Touring South Whidbey

Page 36

Page 26

Top Wine Picks Page 46

TasTingRoom® The magazine for

people who love wine tasting

wa s h i n g T o n SPring 2013

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Explore a loop of seven wineries on unspoiled South WhidbEy

iSland, where you'll discover eclectic

wines produced from grapes grown in

Washington, Oregon, and even California

ISLANDWritEr & PhotograPhEr Richard Duval

tasting RooM winery loop

LEFT Whidbey Island Winery & Vineyards, established in 1982 TOP & RIGHT Overlooking Saratoga Passage, Langley's boutique shops, eateries, inns and tasting rooms attract day trippers and overnighters

uccumb to the slower pace of rural south Whidbey island, a short ferry ride from the metropolitan bustle between Everett

and seattle. centered around the tidy and picturesque seaside village of Langley, a number of small wineries are making serious wines, and scoring well deserved attention. in between sips, savor local fare grown from island farms, stroll the art galleries, or try your hand at glass blowing.

iSland WinEWhidbey island wine folk are a curious lot with wildly

differing backgrounds—pilot, engineer, mountain guide, chef, you name it. But however diverse they may be, acclaim and awards dot their island digs.

the wineries and tasting rooms are augmented by two well stocked wine stores, Langley’s second st. Wine shop and Vino amore just up the road in Freeland. Langley even boasts a wine walk of sorts. all echo the same refrain: come taste this place.

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WhidbEy iSland WinEryowner and winemaker greg osenbach has come a long

way—measured in miles and liters—from his start in new York’s Finger Lakes wine region four decades ago. a volunteer stint for a college professor who dabbled in wine planted the seed from which sprung the 30-year-old Whidbey island Winery, the first and most well known of the island’s producers.

in 1982, greg and Elizabeth moved to the island from Monroe to make their winemaking hobby their livelihood. on a newly-purchased 10-acre spread, they planted their first vines—Madeleine angevine and sylvaner, Müeller-thurgau, and siegerrebe. “We wanted to live and make wine here,” he says, “and though a lot of people joked about me keeping my day job, i knew i could grow white wine grapes in this climate.”

grow they did, right along with the young but energetic Washington wine scene and today, osenbach is acknowledged as a pioneer in Puget sound grape growing techniques and winemaking.

osenbach notes that he came by his knowledge the old-fashioned way—lots of trial and error and a developed expertise in island weather and viticulture. “We evolved with the vineyard,” notes Elizabeth, growing their white wine grapes while playing with red wine grapes from Wenatchee and columbia Valley.

the winery has grown production to 3,500 cases with the help of assistant winemaker Leah Waaramaki, who works alongside osenbach in the vineyard and the winery. among the favorite wines are, naturally, two whites from the estate grapes—the crisp Madeleine angevine and perennial best seller island White, a blend of angevine and Madeleine sylvaner. But don’t shy away from the winery’s great reds.

Located less than two miles from the picturesque town of Langley and the ferry dock, the winery’s lush vineyard serves as a cultural hot spot with a summer concert series, arts events, and year-round tastings.

holmES harbor CEllarSgreg Martinez has spent most of his life in the clouds as a

pilot but following his lifelong dream of owning a winery has put his feet on solid ground. “i’d been flying for almost 20 years,” he noted. “it was time to re-evaluate what i wanted to do with the second part of my life, and nothing got me as excited as making wine.”

today he and wife theresa craft a range of much lauded wines from their tuscan inspired digs in holmes harbor, about 10 minutes north of Langley. their first crush was 2006, producing 550 cases of five different varietals. With theresa contributing her chemistry expertise (she’s a research scientist specializing in analytical and applied chemistry), the winery was formally launched in 2009.

a short internship at a california winery notwithstanding,

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Whidbey Island Winery 2010 Sangiovese Rattlesnake Hillsa fine tribute to italy's Chianti Classico. Nose: Earthy aromas of brambleberry, allspice and saddle leather. Taste: dense and rich flavors of cherry, dried cranberry, currant, tobacco leaf with a hint of spice coming through on a long finish of smooth and rounded tannins. $20

Whidbey Island Winery Island Whitethis non-vintage blend of madeleine Sylvaner and madeleine angevine estate fruit is a true palate pleaser. Nose: beautiful aromatics showing floral honeysuckle, orange blossom, citrus zest, Key lime tart and brine. Taste: Full and round, exuding balanced acidity and brimming with peach, pear, kiwi and apple flavors. $14

Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Teragré Red Etudethis signature blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, merlot and Syrah has a lovely and penetrating mouthfeel that hits all parts of the palate. Nose: high-toned and intense bright cherry, damson plum, camphor, tar and leather. Taste: opulent texture with flavors of aged balsamic, fig, plum sauce, steeped black currant and tea leaf notes swirling amidst rich tannins. $37

Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla ValleySourced from les Collines and Spofford Station Vineyard, this Cab shows impressive depth. Nose: loaded with red fruit, eucalyptus, currants and pencil lead. Taste: Vivacious and seductive tannins riding wave after wave of ripe, monstrous red berry flavors and balanced with savory herbal characteristics. $31

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CLOCKWISE FROm TOP LEFT Whidbey Island Winery owner Greg Osenbach with assistant winemaker Leah Waaramaki; Tuscan style exterior of Holmes Harbor Cellars, and owners Greg and Theresa Martinez (interior); summer concert in the vineyard at Whidbey Island Winery and (interior) tasting room

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Martinez dove right into the dual role of winery owner and winemaker. it’s that pilot’s need for control, he sheepishly acknowledges. “i sort of like to do everything. that’s the way i know it’s done right.”

there was equal certainty about the style of wines he sought to make. “i knew the profile i wanted—a cross between old Europe, particularly French, and the california dry wines i knew from school. My interest was to vary techniques to shape distinct flavors.”

Production is now up to 1,200 cases with 16 wines on the roster, including a no-oak chardonnay and a Pinot noir aged in oak. a favorite is Etude, a red blend sourced with grapes from Les collines Vineyard. sales are mostly on the island via the tasting room and local outlets.

ott & murPhy WinESDark woods, leather chairs, well-stocked book shelves, and

a non-stop view of saratoga Passage surround this Langley tasting room. ott & Murphy offers the sophisticated air of a private club augmented by wines of old World character.

With live music every saturday night and plans in the works to expand the space and the entertainment, ott & Murphy Wines has quickly become a night-out destination.

though the name suggests a heralded British haberdashery, ott & Murphy Wines reflects three like-minded partners who blend their diverse and challenging day jobs into a successful wine enterprise.

David ott is an energy conservation specialist and his wife Diane Kaufman is a designer. head winemaker Eric Murphy works half the year as a professional mountain climber and guide. When the six-month climbing season ends, Murphy descends to the serious business of making wines with his longtime friends, who manage the winery year round.

they met in the early 90s, drawn by their mutual interest in homebrewing. Early on, it was clear that Murphy had the winemaker’s touch. “Eric is the major painter of our wines; i’m the minor artist’s assistant,” ott says. “he brings the steady control we need for consistency.”

the winemaking techniques of Burgundy and cÔtes du RhÔne are echoed in his wines, particularly the flagship 2010 L’Entente Blanc. “i’m honing our style towards wines that speak of a sense of place,” Murphy says, citing such influences as syncline, Efeste and in particular cayuse. “i’m aiming for the top tier of quality.”

uSElESS bay WinESRio Rayne and her husband ayo Lobon met on an extended

post-school stay in spain. together, they went through culinary school in canada, then worked in restaurants in napa where ayo developed an interest in winemaking.

tiring of the restaurant life, they dreamed of growing their own food via organic methods while nurturing ayo’s growing skill as a winemaker. Family and land on the island beckoned

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CLOCKWISE FROm TOP LEFT Ott & Murphy's tasting room in Langley; the colorful tasting bar at Useless Bay Wines, also in Langley; couples sharing wine and water views of Saratoga Passage; Rio Rayne and Ayo Lobon of Useless Bay Wines; Eric Murphy and David Ott of Ott & Murphy

Ott & Murphy 2011 L'Entente Blanc Boushey Vineyardthe winery's flagship rhône style white blend of marsanne, grenache blanc and a dash of roussanne was aged on the lees for 11 months. Nose: Fresh florality of honey blossom, clover, nectarine, pear and grapefruit. Taste: Crisp yet

full, rich flavors of ruby grapefruit, guava and apricot with creamy spice and minerality playing it up on the finish. $31

Ott & Murphy 2008 L'Entente Columbia Valleya Southern rhône style blend of Syrah, mourvèdre, Viognier and roussanne. Nose: there's a seductive smokiness shaded with deep currants, blueberry, cigar box and floral essence. Taste: Enchanting rich flavors of cassis, black fruit, lightly grilled game, with a swath of tannins and lively acidity showing up on the finish. $41

Useless Bay Wines 2011 Dry Riesling Columbia ValleyPair this dry mosel style riesling with oysters, shellfish, or goat cheese. Nose: lively nectarine, peach and pear aromas on a flinty minerality. Taste: racy and crisp edges with a fresh-cut of acidity, exhibiting green apple and hints of peach. $17

Useless Bay Wines 2010 Sill Hill Reda blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and malbec. Pair with roasted chicken and grilled veggies. Nose: tarragon, damp earth and herbal minty notes lingering over red fruit. Taste: medium bodied blend with tea leaf and muted earthy flavors with a light fruitiness and lingering tannins. $20

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and by 2009, they started an organic farm with Rio’s father, Jack adams, as a third partner, and set up Useless Bay Winery a year later. the Langley tasting room is just a few doors down from ott & Murphy, with a deck that offers stunning views of saratoga Passage.

ayo weaves his spanish heritage and lifelong love of food and wine into his wines, but he points out he’s not trying to make spanish wines with Washington grapes. “Each winemaker wants to establish a distinctive style,” he says. “My hope is that my wines reflect the worldly quality of Washington’s grapes with a bit of my culture as an accent.”

the signature sill hill Red, named for the road to their farm, is a steady seller and hints at what blends and varietals Lobon has in mind for future releases.

While ayo focuses on the wine, Rio’s passion lies with establishing the farm as part of the island’s thriving agritourism effort. “there are so many good people on the island to live and work with,” says Rio. “We grow our own food and we make our wines. We just love living here.”

bloomS WinEryBack in the ‘90s, Ken and Virginia Bloom would make a

yearly trek to california to help plant and harvest grapes at a vineyard managed by Ken’s brother. one year, Ken decided to bring grapes back to the island “just to see what i could do with them,” he says. his first wine showed promise, and three years later he produced a cabernet sauvignon from the same california vineyard. When the wine was met with great enthusiasm, Blooms Winery was born.

“We sort of grew into the business one success at a time,” says Virginia. “it was a bit scary at first, but the wines were scoring well and people liked them.” in 2011, they opened taste for Wine at Bayview corner, just a bit north of Langley. Virginia runs the operations and Ken focuses on winemaking.

“We do small batches at a time,” says Ken. “i like a style that is fruit forward but doesn’t overpower with too much oak.” he remains meticulous about his grapes, sourcing from top Washington vineyards, though still bringing up a truckload of his brother’s grapes every year for his beloved cab. Production stays right around 900 cases a year with sales stemming mostly from island trade and traffic. as proud as they are of their wines, they’re equally proud to be creating them on the island. Virginia is active in many island industry tourism groups, including her current stint as president of the Whidbey island Vintners association. From her vantage point, the local wineries reflect the rich diversity of life on the island.

“We have such a great and diverse group of winemakers,” she notes. “throw in the farms, the trails, the art, live theatre and kids activities, why wouldn’t anyone come here?”

ComFortS oF WhidbEycomforts of Whidbey is a winery and vineyard situated on a

working farm. carl and Rita comfort were military veterans

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CLOCKWISE FROm TOP LEFT Taste for Wine is a popular hangout, with wine bar, tasting room and art gallery with rotating exhibits featuring island artists, even a venue for local musicians; Rita and Carl Comfort of Comforts of Whidbey; Comforts' estate vineyard; Virginia and Ken Bloom of Blooms Winery

Blooms 2010 Syrah Rattlesnake Hills AVAthis plush and delicious Syrah pairs well with dark chocolate. Nose: Vibrant berries and rich plum shaded with leather, violet and sagebrush. Taste: Structured and poised, showing red and black fruit, currants and savory herb with a lengthy finish marked by fine tannins. $24

Blooms 2011 Semillon Snipes Mountain AVAa food friendly dry white with 85% of the fruit sourced from upland Vineyard, desirable for its ancient rocky soils of cobblestone and basalt. Pair with shellfish and hard cheeses. Nose: a fine minerality of crushed pebbles intermingled with fresh grapefruit and lemony citrus. Taste: Crisp grapefruit and refreshing lemon notes glide into a satisfying and long finish, where the flavors continue to build in intensity and depth. $16

Comforts of Whidbey 2010 High Tide White Puget Sounda 50/50 blend of madeleine angevine and madeleine Sylvaner grapes from the winery's estate vineyard in langley overlooking the Salish Sea. Pair with oysters and dungeness crab. Nose: Soft grassy aromas offering hints of citrus peel. Taste: round, smooth and clean, with light grapefruit flavors, gentle florality, and a touch of sea breeze on the palate. $15

tasting RooM winery loop

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tasting RooM winery loop

who returned in 2003 looking for a good parcel of land to farm. they found a 22-acre farm complete with vines that had been planted in the ‘90s. “the grapes were well tended,” says carl, “but had never produced a great crop. We figured with a bit of technology and a lot of dedication, we could make good wine.”

they diligently tended to the siegerrebe, Madeleine angevine, Madeleine sylvaner and Pinot noir grapes while expanding the farm. in 2009 they brought in their first vintage, producing six estate whites. Encouraged, they converted an existing building into their winery and tasting room, and this year added the samaritan series—a syrah, sangiovese, and a late harvest Viognier. they expect to yield about 300 to 500 cases from their estate vineyard and several hundred more from grapes sourced elsewhere.

the vineyards get a fair share of Rita’s attention; she’s near fanatical about hand pruning, hand tending, and overall nurturing to ensure the best quality grapes.

Recognizing the inherent beauty of their land and the draw of the vineyard with its riveting views of the sound from the picnic area, carl has devised an ambitious plan to greatly add to the grounds and establishing comforts as a venue for weddings and events.

SPoilEd dog WinEryat the end of a gravel driveway bordered by thick forest off

Maxwelton Road a surprise awaits—a winery and abundant vineyard, nestled in the midst of a wide open farm—the life’s work of Karen and Jack Krug.

guests are greeted by sami and Blue, the resident australian shepherds, whence came the winery’s name. With an avowed commitment to sustainable practices, the Krugs came to winemaking by a circuitous route; the need to tend to an ailing parent led them to this 25-acre spread where, along with running the farm, Karen wanted to grow grapes.

they analyzed the soil and carefully researched which grapes would grow best. they dove deep into the science of Pinot noir grapes and clones to forge a path for making good complex wine. it took four long years before their first harvest of grapes. “We did everything ourselves,” says Karen. “tested the soil, tilled the earth, built the trellis, and all the while we developed the farm based on sustainable practices.”

they’re equally selective about the grapes they source, looking always to partner with like-minded vineyards. “Momtazi Vineyard in oregon grows certified biodynamic grapes for us,” explained Karen. “this is an ultra-organic way of farming that involves very specific practices like soil building instead of fertilizer, and planning and planting by a calendar.”

spoiled Dog makes Pinot noir in an old World style as well as a new World style. Production stays at about 500 cases a year; sales outlets are limited to the winery and the usual on-island sources. Karen says they’re not interested in growing much beyond that. “i’ve no interest in putting our wines in grocery stores or any other off-island source. our thing is local—we’re island grown and that’s how we’ll stay.”

CLOCKWISE FROm TOP LEFT Spoiled Dog Winery, vineyards and farm; owner Karen Krug with her Australian shepherd Sami; estate Pinot Noir

Getting Here By Ferry mukilteo to Clinton ferry: 20 minute crossingPort townsend to Coupeville ferry: 35 minute crossing

Getting Here By CarFrom bellingham, drive south on interstate 5. take exit 230 and merge onto Wa-20W for 60 miles.

Where to Stay, Play & Dine www.whidbeycamanoislands.comdownload a Free map and get a wealth of information at this website including lodging, food, parks, beaches, outdoor adventure, and arts and heritage.

Mark Your Calendar!Savor Spring Wine tour may 11-12, 2013

autumn on Whidbey Wine & art tour nov. 9-11, 2013

Find A Winerywww.whidbeyislandvintners.org

Spoiled Dog 2010 Pinot NoirVintner Karen Krug crafted this new World style Pinot noir with grapes sourced from momtazi Vineyard in oregon's mcminnville aVa. Nose: Elegant complexity of bright red berries, graham cracker crust, cranberry, leather with just a slight hint of white pepper. Taste: Silky and refreshing with bright red fruit and spice that evolves into a firm, structured finish with lovely and refined tannins. $28

Spoiled Dog 2010 Reserve Cuvee Pinot Noiralso made with sustainably grown fruit from oregon's momtazi Vineyard, this Pinot is reflective of an old World style and character. Pair with salmon, lamb, asian beef dishes. Nose: divinely rich raspberry, dark chocolate ganache, pencil lead, with intriguing accents of spice and musty earth. Taste: Finessed and full bodied, with vibrant red and dark fruit and florality on the palate. a gripping mouthfeel of tannins dances on the lengthy finish. $32

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plan a South WhidbEy triP