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RiggingRigging for for everyoneeveryone

PrzemysławPrzemysław LitewkaLitewka

Poznań, Poland

AgendaAgenda

• Introduction

• Non-structural rigging in 1/72 scale

• Structural rigging in 1/32 scale

AgendaAgenda

IntroductionIntroduction

Rigging is commonly considered among modellers Rigging is commonly considered among modellers as the most difficult part of the hobby.

For many it is the most serious obstacle preventing them to start building models of pioneers-era aircraft.

I was sharing this feeling, too. Only 10 years ago!

Febr. 6-7th, 2016 Rigging for everyone 2

But I was completely wrong!

IntroductionIntroduction

I was wrong, because rigging is EASY

And for me it is now the most favourite part of WW1 aircraft modelling


Felixstowe F.2A

Roden 1/72 and Wingnut Wings 1/32

NonNon--structuralstructural riggingrigging inin 1/72 1/72 scalescale

The majority of models in small scale do not require structural rigging.

Quite contrary – such rigging when tightened could load the fragile wing

cellules with too large forces and lead to their destruction

Yet, even the non-structural rigging made from very flexible nylon threads

introduces some additional stiffness to the wing cellule

– large enough to ensure the structural integrity of the assembly



Preparation of nylon elastic thread

1. Tear out a bundle of thin threads from black tights using a pair of tweezers 1. Tear out a bundle of thin threads from black tights using a pair of tweezers

(a kind donation from our beloved wives/girlfriends welcome)




2. Pass the bundle through a drop of plastic cement between fingers and

hold tightened between fingers until glue sets.hold tightened between fingers until glue sets.




3. After a few minutes when the glue is set, the thread is ready to use



Preparation of wings

1. Drill the holes in the lower wing

Before painting and assembly of wing cellule

1. Drill the holes in the lower wing

2. Drill the holes in the upper wing all the way through


Holes diameter 0.2–0.3 mm


Spanning the lines

1. Hold the thread with a pair of tweezers and glue its tip with a drop of gel

After painting and assembly of wing cellule

1. Hold the thread with a pair of tweezers and glue its tip with a drop of gel

cyanoacrylic glue into the hole in the lower wing

For the ease of manipulation be

generous with thread length:


at least 2 times the final

required length is advisable


Spanning the lines

3. Holding the line with tweezers push it through the hole in the upper wing

2. After the glue is set, check the bond trying to pull the line from the lower point.

When satisfied - proceed

3. Holding the line with tweezers push it through the hole in the upper wing



Spanning the lines

3. Pull the free end to tighten the line initially. Then release and pull it

down slightly – a clear bend in the line will indicate the place where to

put a drop of gel cyanoacrylic glue using a metal needle, toothpick, etc.



Spanning the lines

4. Again pull the free end to tighten the line. After a few seconds the

line is ready. You can test it by trying to bend it – the elasticity of the

material will allow for large deformation without a danger of breaking.



Cleaning up the mess on the upper wing upperside

1. Do the haircut flush with the upper surface using a new sharp razorblade




2. Fill the remaining holes with drops of dense paint, delicately sand

(sandpaper grade 1200-2000) and polish the surface




3. Airbrush, decal, varnish and/or weather the upper surface for the final look



Completed examples

Roden - Albatros D.III Top Gun - Friedrichshafen FF.49C


Choroszy - Lohner Typ MkN MAC – Bristol Scout C

StructuralStructural riggingrigging inin 1/32 1/32 scalescale

The majority of models in large scale do require structural rigging.

Quite contrary – without this rigging the wing cellules due to large self-weight

will not keep the relevant dihedrals but will deflect to form an anhedral

It is even worse with tailbooms of pusher aircraft models


Wingnut Wings – Airco DH.2 Wingnut Wings – RAF FE.2B


Basic version without turnbuckles – eyelets

Made from thin copper wire, a loop with a tail of twisted wire ends


Can be easily self-made by twisting two ends of the wire bent around a drillbit

There is a version for lazy ones – ready to use Bob’s Buckles



1. Drill a hole in the wing – 0.5 to 1.0 mm deep, depending on the thickness

of the kit part

2. Trim the eyelet tail so that only the loop pops out from the hole and glue in

with a gel cyanoacrylic glue




3. Carry our a pull out test before proceeding – a section of fishing line can be

used to this end


Hold both ends of the line and try to pull the eyelet from its socket

– proceed when satisfied


Basic version without turnbuckles – tying one end

1. Pass a section of fishing line through the eyelet (0.12 mm dark fishing line)

Important note:

be generous with the line, use

3 times the final length to

2. Pass each end of the line through a tube section

You can use:

3 times the final length to

allow for easy manipulation


You can use:

i) Ready to use brass tube sections from Bob’s

Buckles (internal ∅ 0.3 mm, external ∅ 0.5 mm,

length 1.0 to 3.0 mm)

ii) Polyimide amber tube (internal ∅ 0.0126 in,

external ∅ 0.0186 in) which has to be cut to

custom length


3. Tighten the tube to the eyelet pulling the loose ends of the line and

simultaneously pushing the tube to the eyelet with tweezers


4. Secure the tube with a drop of liquid cyanoacrylic glue


glue


5. Trim one loose end of the line with thin scissors


cut here



1. Pass the loose end through the second piece of tube

Basic version without turnbuckles – tying the other end

2. Pass the loose end through the second eyelet and back through the tube



3. Tighten the tube to the eyelet pulling the loose end of the line with one pair of

tweezers off the tube and the eyelet and simultaneously pushing the tube to the

eyelet with the second pair of tweezers. The line will be tightened!


4. Secure the second tube with a drop of liquid cyanoacrylic glue

tightened line


4. Secure the second tube with a drop of liquid cyanoacrylic glue

glue


5. Trim the loose end with thin scissors


cut here



Turnbuckles at cable ends

I. Made of tube and fishing line

1. Pass the line thrice through a

tube and once through an eyelet

2. Tighten the loops at the tube ends,

trim the loose end, trim the eyelet tail

and glue into a holeand glue into a hole


3. Use the free loop at the turnbuckle as an eyelet

in the basic version to tighten the line



I. Made of tube and fishing line

Wingnut Wings - Roland D.VIa


Wingnut Wings - Roland D.VIa

Roden – SPAD VII.C1



II. Ready to use Gaspatch turnbuckles

Presented Type A is not recommended.

The connection between the turnbuckle

and the „eyelet” is not hinged! and the „eyelet” is not hinged!

If you glue the element into the hole

there is no way to avoid nasty „bends”

between the line and the turnbuckle

I recommend Type C – without the

eyelet





1. Tie your own eyelet to the Type C turnbuckle

– you will have the required hinged connection– you will have the required hinged connection

– no danger of „bends”





2. Trim the eyelet tail and glue the element into a hole


3. Use the free loop at the turnbuckle as an eyelet

in the basic version to tighten the line





Wingnut Wings –

DFW C.V


Turnbuckles at cable mid-span

Both types can be easily introduced at cable mid span


Wingnut Wings – Roland D.VIaWingnut Wings – Felixstowe F.2A

ImportantImportant notenote

I can claim the authorship of line-tube turnbuckles and tying

an eyelet to Gaspatch turnbuckles, only.

I stress the fact that I have learned the majority of the

methods shown in this presentation from fellow modellers.

My special thanks for helping me with rigging go to:

Des Delatorre

http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/

Robert Booth

http://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/

RiggingRigging isis easyeasy

ReallyReally!!!!!!

ThankThank youyou for for youryour attentionattention

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