june - romsey modellers
TRANSCRIPT
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JUNE 2010
THIS MONTH
Another month and another issue of the Romsey Modeller hits the streets. I complete my He111 build (at last), Paul starts what I’m sure will be another outstanding bike and Dale gives us an update on his Duke of York. We also have Malcolm completing his Jeep and Gary taking on a very strange scratch building project. We have show reports from Hendon and Salisbury and wrap it up with a report on the incredible Revell competition that had a outstanding number of entries.
Talking of Revell, I have started my Sukhoj Su‐25 for the cold war competition sponsored by Peter Lloyd but was disappointed to find the canopy missing from the box. I contacted Revell UK by email only to be told that I had to provide
a) The receipt b) The barcode from the side of the box c) A photocopy of the instructions
Only then would they decide if they would consider sending me a replacement provided I send the postage!
As I haven’t got the receipt ( the kit was supplied by Peter) I emailed back and told them the kit was for Tangmere etc only to be told that I have to write (not email) to Revell Germany and they would consider my request. I must say I am flabbergasted by the poor customer service Revell provide which is such as shame following the excellent competition we have recently held. I will keep you informed of progress.
Tony…
CONTENTS
June 2010 ................................................................................................................................................................ 2
This Month ......................................................................................................................................................... 2 Contents ............................................................................................................................................................. 2 Hendon Model Show23rd May by Paul Adams ................................................................................................... 3 Romsey Modellers’ Next Trip Out? by Tony Adams ........................................................................................... 5 Revell Competition Results ................................................................................................................................ 6 Salisbury Model Show June 5th 2010 by Tony Adams ........................................................................................ 8 Revell 1/48 Heinkel 111 H6 (part 3) by Tony Adams ........................................................................................ 10 1999 Aprilia RSV250 Build (Part 1) BY Paul Adams .......................................................................................... 15 1/35 Willy’s Jeep ( Part 2) by Malcolm Grant ................................................................................................... 17 HMS Duke of York – Update by Dale Koppi ...................................................................................................... 18 Off My Trolley by Gary Jarman ........................................................................................................................ 20 Club Diary ......................................................................................................................................................... 22 Contact Info ...................................................................................................................................................... 22
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HENDON MODEL SHOW23RD MAY BY PAUL ADAMS
Organised by IPMS Barnet, the RAF Museum Hendon played host to the second consecutive model show to be held at the venue. Interest in the show this year meant spaces were quickly snapped up and Romsey Modellers secured a place nestled nicely by the Beaufighter again.
Several members made the trip up to Harrow, sadly Phil was absent after breaking down only a few miles into his journey. For Richard and Tony it was their first visit to the museum, so
you can imagine the look on their faces when we entered the hall! After getting the models and gear into the hall, Tony re‐parked his vehicle at the local college and he and Richard walked back to the hall via the Hannant’s model shop, surprisingly empty handed!
We squeezed our display onto just 12 foot of table space with three 1/48th Beaufighter’s from Ben and Paul taking centre stage with Tony’s aircraft, Russell’s armour and Itasha cars, Steve’s figure’s, Richards TSR2 and Paul’s bikes creating yet another varied exhibit.
The club tables are scattered amongst the museum exhibits so this afforded a chance to browse both
miniature and full size examples of many aircraft. Last year I didn’t get the chance to view the Battle of Britain and Heritage hall, so this year I was determined to make amends and I had a pleasant walk through both of these with Richard for an hour or so. Highlights included an awesome Stuka dive‐ bomber, a restored Me110, Me109 G2, Me262 and the impressive Mosquito and WW1 exhibits. The still weathered Harrier only added to the spectacle. Fantastic! The bomber hall is just as good, though displaying models under the wings of the Lancaster is challenge.
Exhibits in the Aviation Heritage Hall
A trio of Beaufighter’s Russell’s Itasha collection
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Equally impressive were the models on show, the 25 plus clubs exhibiting some superb stuff. In particular I enjoyed the Bomber Sig display which had these excellent Vulcan, Nimrod and Lancaster models on show.
RAF bomber SIG display
The competition area was surprisingly short of entries compared to last year, but nevertheless the quality was a good as ever. Both Russell and Paul obtained 1st places in their respective categories for their Stug B and 250 Aprilia models. Typically there were some strange judging decisions with a superb German Schnellboat going unrewarded, overall though the right models were given trophies.
A selection of the excellent models in competition….the Sabre was 1/144th!!
The trader area was given a thorough looking over by all of the club members, with most of us coming away with something we’ll probably never build!! Bizarre purchase of the day award had to go to Tony (under pressure from his daughter!!) who purchased a Scalextric set which he knew didn’t work at the point of sale!! (Tony ‐ actually there was nothing wrong with it – bargain) Paul resisted the temptation to buy a reduced priced Tamiya Spitfire and went for an Airfix Vulcan kit instead. Good luck with that one!! Russell though got the greedy git award for the most purchases by a mile. We recorded the evidence and didn’t buy into the story of them all belonging to his girlfriend Tascha! Russell would like to pass his thanks to the club members to, as he turned up
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late (we set his models out for him) and left early (we put them back away again...bloody prima donna!!!), though no‐one was amused after looking for a lost 1/48th tanker figure only to find out later that Russell had taken it home with him!........It was fresh underwear please in Tony’s car on the way home when he swerved to avoid a bird that had hit the car in front about 40 feet away....by the time Tony had reacted the bird was 6 lanes away!!!...ahh the memories...!
Another worthwhile visit at a great venue and well organised show. Roll on next year.
COLD WAR RUSSIAN AIRCRAFT FOR TANGMERE COMPLETION
Peter has asked me to let Brian Sampson and William Booth know that I have received the kits they asked for and will bring them along on Wednesday to hand over.
AMERICAN COMPETITION
This will take place at our July meeting and not our June meeting as erroneously reported in a certain Romsey Modeller based publication. The entry criteria is obviously anything American!
ROMSEY MODELLERS’ NEXT TRIP OUT? BY TONY ADAMS
Following on from the successful trips to Bovington and Tangmere Museums I would like to propose we make a group trip to the Bournemouth International Airshow on either Saturday 21st or Sunday 22nd August (depending on the group preference ) . This year the show have already announced the attendance of the BBMF Lanc and Spits, a B‐17, the red arrows, a Hawker Hunter and a Typhoon (no news on the Vulcan).
As an attendee of last year’s show I can thoroughly recommend it, something to discuss on Wednesday…
It also gives me an excuse to post some of the photo’s I took last year!
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REVELL COMPETITION RESULTS
The Revell competition took place last month and I must say how overwhelming the response was for entries. A superb total of 24 models were judged and scrutinised by 17 club members, with the first place award going to Tony’s 1/72nd Tornado. Runner up award went to a surprised Steve Edwards for his 1/72nd German U‐boat and joint third places for Dave Henwood’s Fokker EIII and multiple entrant, Gary Jaman, for his Iluyshin IL‐78. Well done guys.
Thank you to all of you who took part to help make to competition a success. The full list of results is set out below.
Entry No
Entrant Model Title 1st’s(3 pts)
2nd’s(2 pts)
3rd’s(1 pts
Total points
% of vote
Placing
1 Keith Farmer Sopwith Camel
2 Gary Jarman Air Ambulance II 6 6% 6th
3 Keith Farmer Sopwith Camel F1 I 2 2% 8th
4 Dave O’Meara Langford 1645 I 2 2% 8th
5 Dale Koppi Jaguar XKR I 2 2% 8th
6 Dave Henwood Fokker E111 II II I 11 10% 3rd
7 Peter Lloyd P47D T‐Bolt
8 Dave Henwood Rolls Royce I IIII 7 6% 5th
9 Gary Jarman Ilyushin IL‐78 III I 11 10% 3rd
10 Gary Jarman Ferrari
11 Gary Jarman Tornado T/ Meet 2009
II I II 10 9% 4th
Commended
12 Gary Jarman Tornado 50,000hrs
I 2 2% 8th
13 Simon DeMontefalcon
Fokker Dr1
14 Joanne Pang USS Enterprise II 2 2% 8th
15 Gary Jarman Boeing 737
16 Dale Koppi Rafale
17 Malcolm Grant Sturmtiger
18 Richard Stewart Trabant 601 I I 4 4% 7th
19 Tony Adams Tornado Gr1 IIII IIII II 22 21% 1st
20 Tony Adams 1997 Corvette
21 Russell Eden Itasha Stratos I II 7 6% 5th
22 Tony Adams Heinkel III H6 I 2 2% 8th
23 Mark Metters U‐Boat 216
24 Steve Edwards U‐Boat Type VII I II IIIII 12 11% 2nd
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SALISBURY MODEL SHOW JUNE 5TH 2010 BY TONY ADAMS
As we set out our table it hardly seemed two weeks since we last did this! Once again we put on a high quality display, with 7 members exhibiting ( and plenty of others shopping) we had an excellent variety of models and really made the most of our 12 foot of table space.
Dave O’Meara had brought along a plastic display unit, which showed off is figures nicely , however it was very unsteady, I don’t know how it stayed upright the whole show. The show as always way well attended by clubs, exhibiting a fine array of models. My He 111 (see build later on ) had it first outing, unfortunately I knocked off the cockpit hatch during transport, so I perched it on top of the model. Having decided to enter it in the competition I moved it to judging area, completely forgetting the loose part. An hour later I remembered and soon confirmed it was no longer placed on the aircraft. As the hall was full I was sure it was lost underfoot only
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to be amazed when Steve returned with it undamaged after finding on the floor outside the competition room! The competition itself had a number of high quality models particularly in the large scale aircraft category (it must have as I didn’t win).
There were plenty of traders , one in particular got my attention as he was selling at very low price and was offering a free kit it you purchase four – well you had to didn’t you?
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REVELL 1/48 HEINKEL 111 H6 (PART 3) BY TONY ADAMS
At the end of last months write up I had completed the painting of the main camouflage colours, before I started weathering I had there were a number of sub assembles to add to the airframe [1].
First the wheel wells were painted RLM02 followed by a suitable level of grime curtsey of a Promodellers wash [2]. The cockpit that I had built earlier was inserted into the front of the aircraft. There were a number of additional photo etch and resin cockpit parts to add to the side walls that I had left off while I was painting
One striking feature of the He111 is the amount of clear parts, there are a huge number. In order to model the aircraft ( which bombed my parents house – see part one) I used gondolier parts from a # vac form set. I wanted to model the cockpit with the hatches open in order to give a good veiw of the interior. Surgery on the kits part was very carefully performed, cutting away the roof and the side hatch. Once this was done the various parts were dipped into Klear which certainly improved the part’s clarity. Once dry the parts were masked using the excellent Eduard mask set [3]. With the masks in place I sprayed the parts grey (the interior
colour ) before over‐spraying them the relevant camouflage colour. I made up the excellent painted photo etch instrument panels adding a small drop of Klear to each dial to represent the instrument’s glass face. These were glued in place along side an number of etch ammo boxes and other details[4,5].
At this stage I was hopeful of getting the model complete for the Revell completion, consequently I applied the decals from Aeromaster, theses went on with very little drama. The model was given a good coat of Klear before a Promodeller wash was added to bring out the panel lines
[3] Lots of transparent parts require lots of masking, thank God for Eduard masks!
[4] Main instrument panel located
[1] Main painting done, view from above [2] The wheel wells were painted RLM02 before pro modeller dirt was applied.
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I built up the undercarriage adding a number of etch parts, the resin wheels were sprayed (very) dark grey and highlighted using MIG pigments European dust [6].
Before I closed up the fuselage I had to add the various white metal guns to the side windows and gondolier , the guns that I had painted earlier ( semi gloss black + gun metal and silver Tamiya dust), were located via tweezers through the various openings. There was a time when I thought I had made a major error in leaving these to now (I had thought they would get damaged if they were fitted earlier) as it was far more tricky than expected. Finally I managed it, the guns were secured via a small wire collar that I had formed that was glue to the outside of the window, this allowed the gun to move reducing the chance of it getting broken.
I used Krysal clear to create the small windows at the bottom of the fuselage ( I hadn’t fitted the kit’s clear panels as they looked terrible froim the inside). This was surprisingly easy , just requiring a wipe of the solution around the opening using a cocktail stick[7].
The clear parts could now be attached to the model, sealing in all that detail – I hoped that it would be visible later [8]. The cockpit did not fit at all well; there were large gaps with the fuselage. I am always
unsure whether to fit clear parts before major painting to allow filling or as in this case to wait to the end. However I now had a major problem. This put paid to any change of getting the model complete into the
[5] Etch instrument panels look superb [6] The undercarriage ready to be attached
[7] Using Krysal Clear to create small windows
[8] Interior detail about to be closed in [9] Filler was needed as the clear parts didn’t fit!.
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competition, instead I did enter it incomplete and justifiably it didn’t do too well…
I masked off as much of the surrounding paint work as possible before applying squadron filler, when dry this was carefully sanded[9]. The area then had to be resprayed and rewashed with promodellers. When done the clear parts blended nicely into the fuselage.
The nose cone was drilled out to accommodate the huge 20mm cannon , this had been prepared I a summary way to the other machine guns[10]. Putty was used to represent a canvas cover where it emerged from the nose, which was painted “linen” and washed[11].
Before starting weathering the model I had to repair a large paint spot on the wing caused by flying thinners as I cleaned my airbrush [12]. After rubbing down and respraying the mark was still slightly visible , fortunately weathering will cover it ( I don’t know how Paul keeps his models so pristine)
Now for a the most scary part of the build, overall the paint job was not too shoddy, I could apply a matt coat and call it a day with what will look like a factory delivered aircraft, however I wanted to mess it up a bit and make it look the aircraft would have looked on 31st October 1940. It was time to try pin washing for the first time!
Pin washing simulates the random multiple colour mix seen on real aircraft, it also serves to tone down colours and blend them into each other. The precursor is a dry shiny gloss coat which I had already achieved, and then dots of red, yellow, black and brown oil paints were applied over the model. Then using a paintbrush wetted with turpentine the dots were blended across the model in the direction of the airflow[13]. The result was a subtle staining of the model that broke up the colours nicely. I also added various oils stains to the fuel filler caps again using very thinned oils.
The model was then given a coat of matt varnish before a number of small etch parts that would have been damaged by handling were added, this included the etch bomb bay doors. I used a silver pencil on the propellers and around panels to represent scuffing.
[10] 20mm cannon , painted and weathered [11] The cannon in place
[12] Splashes of thinners , generally are not a good idea
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The radio aerial was added using nylon tread, with insulators formed our of globs of superglue. I could have left it there but I was unhappy about the kit engine exhausts which represented a later H6 and not the aircraft I was modelling. Time for some scratch building… My first attempt resulted in me cutting some 5mm plastic tube at an angle and gluing the pieces together – it looked rubbish! The second attempt worked much better , I heated the tubing with a tea light and when soft, gently bent it to shape. Rubs were added using offcuts of the etch “sprue”, the end was plugged with some solid round rod and the exhaust exit pipe thinned using a rotary reamer[16]. Once done they were painted brown and then dusted with MIG rust before a dark wash was applied [17].
I applied these to the model then added exhaust stains to the under wing surfaces using a mixture of Tamiya smoke and heavily thinned browns.
Finally after 3months I was done At some point I will create a airfield base for the model , not the least to hide the battery holder for the internal lights, but for now I need a break. Time to start my Spit?
[13] pin washing was a little scary [14] but the result was worth it, resulting in a subtle blend of colours
[15] first attempt at scratch building new exhausts was a failure
[16] but the second attempt worked OK
[17] completed exhausts
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PHOTOS OF THE COMPLETED MODEL
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1999 APRILIA RSV250 BUILD (PART 1) BY PAUL ADAMS
With some feeling of inevitability, I’ve started yet another Valentino Rossi bike and my second Ks Workshop kit on the trot! There is in fact a plan…at Scale Model World in 2011, Shane Price and I plan to do a major Rossi display, and seeing as we are someway short of exhibiting every bike he’s run, we’re building as many as we
can before then.
While the memories are still fresh from the 1998 model, I decided to make Rossi’s 1999 championship winning Aprilia and although I would be essentially making the same kit again, the paint scheme was very different indeed. The main sponsor remained for ’99, Nastro Azzurro, but along with the other factory Aprilia riders, Rossi bike would sport a new white, metallic grey, fluorescent red and yellow scheme, making a pretty bike, but hard work for the modeller. The kit decals took care of some of the problems, but in time honoured fashion, I decided to tackle the scheme head on
and paint most of it. I would dispense with the white separation decals and the red background for the Aprilia logo and paint these areas along with applying the correct fluorescent red. The seat poses a challenge too – a fluorescent red Diesel (Jeans) sticker sits over the carbon area on the seat. More of how I tackle this in a forthcoming report.
I began by cleaning up the main parts, removing seams and flash from the frame, tank, seat and fairing which itself was glued together carefully using cyano and fixed with Zip Kicker. After sanding this down with 600 and 1500 grit papers, it was finished with Tamiya epoxy filler. Despite my best efforts I had to repeat this process a number of times before I was happy. With the fairing ready I test fitted the main parts together. Repeating my process for the 1998 bike, I used 2mm aluminium tubing to fasten the swingarm and engine in place, and pinned the seat with dress makers pins. The fairing locates onto two lugs, one on the engine and one on the frame. The fit was snug and straight. It’s at this stage that fit problems must be ironed out – too late once painting starts!! Other than some minor warping on the legs of the seat part, which were straightened out with heat from a hairdryer, there were no problems.
Test fitting the main components Fairing on – the fit was excellent
It was straight onto the smaller parts and with further trimming, sanding, filling and adjustments I got the wheels and forks on the bike to form a rolling chassis. I then checked that it looked and sat right, that the ride
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height looks ok (particularly the back/swingarm) and that everything lines up. With the lower exhaust on I could check the clearance by the fairing side – a problem last time out. Sure enough, I had to thin the fairing a touch to stop the pipe from sitting too high and not lining up with the footpeg holder, where it mounts.
This left side shot shows the correct location for the lower exhaust. The fairing and is held in place temporarily with Tamiya masking tape, whilst this is awkward to achieve as the thing wants to fall to pieces, it’s necessary as resin kits are notorious for ill‐fitting parts. The forks too have help from tape at this stage. The wheels and tyres are donated from the Tamiya TZ250M kit and are held on with Tuner Model Factory axles. The swingarm and fork bottoms are drilled out to 2mm to accommodate them. The vac formed windscreen was trimmed up and retaining holes were
drilled into the fairing. The bike sits on another donated stand courtesy of a Tamiya M1 kit. Similar stand types were used – this is the closest I have without resorting to scratch building one.
The right side photo shows the clean lines of the bike – the right side of a racing 250 bikes houses the chain, unlike a four stroke machine. The operating pedals are the usual way around though, brake on the right, gears on the left. With the basic assembly and test fitting out of the way I could move onto to final clean up and get on with painting, more on this next month, where I’ll show the painting sequence for the fairing and tank. Detailed below is an overview of what’s been used so far.
MODEL SPEC 1/12TH SCALE K’S WORKSHOP 1998 #46 APRILIA RSV250
KIT RESIN TRANSKIT USING TAMIYA WHEELS, TYRES AND HANDLEBARS FROM TAMIYA YZ250M KIT.
TRANSKIT AVAILABLE FROM; WWW.KS‐WORKSHOP .COM
MATERIALS USED (SO FAR)
HALFORDS 600 AND 1500 GRIT SANDPAPER
TAMIYA EPOXY FILLER
CYANO GLUE
MR HOBBY MR SURFACER 500
2MM ALUMINIUM TUBING
MATERIALS PURCHASED AT; WWW.HIROBOY.COM
DECALS K’S WORKSHOP FROM 1999 TRANSKIT
More next time.
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1/35 WILLY’S JEEP ( PART 2) BY MALCOLM GRANT
So on to part two of the 1/35th Italeri Jeep and trailer. All went well with the construction, so a coat of Humbrol primer was sprayed over the jeep and trailer. This also shows up any missed blemishes or unsightly joints, luckily enough there weren’t any. Two coats of Humbrol light olive drab (no.86) were sprayed over this. When fully dry the tyres were picked out in Humbrol satin black (no.85). I usually use a very dark grey for the tyres; something near a dark panzer grey but the satin black gives a realistic sheen to the tyres. Also the Jeep is supposed to be only 6 months old as it was brand new for D‐Day. That’s my story
and I’m sticking to it!
The decals went on well; I chose the 101st Airborne Division June 1944, as supplied with the kit. Some slight silvering did occur but that was fixed with a thinned coat of Matt Coat. Why can’t decal manufacturers make matt decals? Answers on a postcard please, as I have often wondered this!
The transparent lights had an aluminium foil backing applied to them with pva glue. Once fixed to the vehicle with superglue a blackout mask was then painted across the headlight lenses.
The canvas tilt and seat covers were painted in Humbrol light tan (no.93) and given a wash of GW Gryphonne Sepia ink. Other small details were picked out in Humbrol matt black – dashboard details, steering wheel, bonnet rubbers, etc.
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For the wooden handles of the shovel and axe that are located on the left hand side of the jeep I mixed up a combination of black, red and light brown, to achieve the desired wood grain effect.
The exhaust received my own mix of rust colour and a wash of GW Devlan Mud, as did the underside of the Jeep and trailer.
Slight weathering will take place using different washes and aluminium silver paint to highlight chipped paint.
I was very pleased with the finished result of the kit. It makes a well detailed model with very few modifications. Overall the model has turned out well and it would make a very good centrepiece on its own – preferably displayed on a small base along with a figure to give it scale.
The driver for the Jeep will be painted along with the other figures, as the Jeep and trailer are just part of a larger diorama. More details on that will follow soon.
HMS DUKE OF YORK – UPDATE BY DALE KOPPI
Now where did I leave off with the last article... oh yeah, I had finished planking the deck.
Next on the list was to add a rim to the hull of the ship to separate the planking from the metal structure. I added L shaped plastic rod around the hull. When I looked at it after supergluing it to the deck, I realised this looked so overscale and had to do something about it. Out came the scalpel and many hours later, I was almost back to where I started, minus a few planks that came off with it.
Because the ship is fiddly to handle while being on the base, I decided to rip it off. This is where I regret using so much glue. Wow this was a difficult task. After a little cleaning up, the damage wasn’t to bad. Now I could now get the angles I wanted on the desk to glue the tiny 0.5 mm strip around the edge without needing to much tape to hold it in place.
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This is when I started to hear cracking noises while handling the ship. The ship was flexing, to solve this, I cut off a metal tube, inserted it into the ship and bolted it down. Presto, one stiff ship.
On looking at reference photo's yet again, I noticed how the plate lines stick out quite noticeably. Out came the scriber and a line was scribed. But this looked wrong so I stretched some sprue, and placed it into the scribed groove and glued it down. This worked and looks like a fine raised panel line.
After this, I scratchbuilt some vents and pipes to go around the main buildings on the deck. While I was gluing them, I added some vertical ladders. I even built a few fire hose reels, but they won’t be attached till later.
Next I upgraded the 5.25 guns with more detail, this involved adding vents, hatches, doors and ladders .
Next on the problem list were the masts. With my new found liking to streched sprue, I intend to rig this ship, looking at
how many cables there are, the masts are going to require some strength. I decided to scratch build the masks from brass pipe, and needles. My Dremel was very useful here. I noticed at this point, that the plastic masts are wrong, and after getting enough angles and semi closer shots, I managed to work out the majority of differences and begin scratchbuilding them. E.g., on the main mast I noticed two main problems, the first being that the lower section has three support pipes which were missing. The other was the main horizontal piece that the majority of radar/com lines hook onto is midway down on the mask, this needs to be raised to just below the crows nest.
And so this lead to the next problem. When to paint and when to glue?. The masts enter the structures at an angle and need to be very strong requiring a strong bond. As I do not want to be drilling and supergluing after the surface is painted, they will need to be done now. But then the masts are going to be in the way when it comes to masking and painting. In the end, I glued them in place and removed a small building near the main mast. This will allow me to paint and mask off this area. As for the foremast, I have decided on a two stage approach, half of it will be glued for now, the other half will come later. This required a tiny jig to be made to ensure that the
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pieces I am gluing down, will be in the correct spot for when I later place the other parts. I also noticed at this time that I need to scratch build the entire radar room as the kit is missing this ( it is on all 5 ships of this class!).
Next on the list is to give a coat of primer to the ship and see what needs to be cleaned up, I fear there is much to do.
To be continued….
OFF MY TROLLEY BY GARY JARMAN
It all started with the weekly shopping.
Sunday morning, the sunshine (yes, there was some that weekend) was reflecting off the thousands of cars in the parking lot, people were streaming to toward the entrance. Was this an airshow I was heading toward, a model show perhaps, no, I was doing the weekly shopping down at Sainsburys. I selected a trolley from the line. It crossed my mind how, even before you start shopping, you’re faced with choices. How many types of trolleys are there? Deep ones, half depth ones, ones to attach to wheelchairs, ones with a kids compartment. I chose a deep one.
I backed it out the line and turned toward the entrance. Would it go straight or would that wonky wheel require that I push the trolley at a 90 degree angle to the direction I wanted to travel in? It went straight!!
Start off at the fruit and veg. Place all those easily squished items in the little bonnet that is built into the front of these trolleys (ease the trolley in gently). In total I spent an hour and a half wandering up and down the aisles. In this time I examined all 48 varieties of baked beans, found the cheapest, and, even though I knew it would have more sauce than beans, I put 4 tins in my trolley. In aisle 6 (pasta and rice) I used my trolley to nudge another out the way (always amazes me how many people just plonk their trolley in the middle of the aisle when choosing their items), the trolley and I bravely outstared the dirty glare from that trolleys owner. By the time we got to aisle 13 (breads) the trolley was half full (I’m an optimist) but we both knew that the worst was to come. We got to aisle 16, yes, aisle 16, mention it to any Sainsburys trolley and it’ll start shivering. Aisles 16 and 17, soft drinks and beers. Every trolley knows that their work really starts at those aisles (that’s why Sainsburys put them as the last aisles apparently, it reduces metal fatigue in a trolley). I loaded up with 6 packs of coke (two for £3, I mean come on). Ten 6 packs later I pushed the trolley ahead.
The front wheel went a little wonky. The trolley was showing its strain. I turned into aisle 17 (beers). Stella Artois, boxes of 12 bottles, 2 for £10!!! Four boxes later I pushed my trolley towards the cashiers. The front wheel got wonkier the further we went. Would it make it?
I unloaded everything at the checkout, it got scanned and I loaded it all back into the trolley (that’s a horrible mind game to play on that poor trolley). I pushed the trolley towards my car and I swear that as my car got closer that wonky front wheel got a little less wonky. I packed everything into my car and pushed my trolley into one of the little rest areas occupied by so many tired trolleys that are dotted around the parking lot. I gave the handle a gentle tap and said a quiet thank you to the trolley that had carried my load so bravely.
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At home I was still thinking about that trolley, suffering quietly as it carried my load around the store. And so I decided to build a model in its honour.
I downloaded some pictures from the web, drew some scale plans (1/24) based on my memories of where my arms rested when I was pushing the trolley round the store, and got out the plastic tubing. The thinnest I had was .8 mm so that was what I decided to use.
I built the frame up pretty easily.
Then came the first obstacle. I started making the side wiring out of .8 mm plstic rods but it was too big. Fortunately my wife had bought me a load of wiring from little cars for Christmas. I found some .2 mm wire
that seemed perfect and started building up the sides.
I’ve progressed a bit further than the above picture but it is a time consuming task. I bend the wire into shape and then fit it and glue it with PVA. In the mean time I have photographed a box of Stella and worked out the 1/24 scale dimensions. I shall make a few boxes out of plastic card and print some decals to put on them.
By the way, the intro story, while true in many regards, is not the real motivation behind this build. I recently built a Ferrari sports car and want to do one of those Mastercard advertisement style dioramas (you know the X : £15, Y: £20, Z: priceless type ads.)
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CLUB DIARY
June 16th Club Night
July 21st Club Night: American Trophy
August 18th Club Night
September 15th Club Night
September 4th
September 18th
Build a Model in a day (provisional) Farnborough Show
October 20th Club Night October Yeovilton Autumn Show
November 17th Annual Competition
December 15th Xmas Night
Next Meeting: Wednesday June 16th (8pm to 10pm)
Ampfield Village Hall Morleys Lane Romsey Hampshire SO51 9BJ
Thank you to this month’s contributors to this publication
Paul Adams Dale Koppi Gary Jarman
Malcolm Grant Tony Adams
CONTACT INFO
Web Site wwww.romseymodellers.co.uk
Editor Tony Adams Tel: 01794 519153 email: [email protected] Competitions Paul Adams Tel: 02380 398858 Treasurer Vic Short Tel: 01794 511843