STEAMPUNK LUXURY IN SOUTHERN CHILE

SUMMER CROSLEY UNCOVERED

THE DEFINITION OF INSANITY

AT INDYS PLAT 99

MAY 2014

A Singular Vision Luxury With A Past

Caballadas By Horse Is Ultimate Patagonian

Adventure

Abu Dhabis Beauty: Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, UAE

Go to Czechs Moravia Region

Layers of Greece: Ancient Stagira to Alexandros

Palace Hotel

A Racing Dream Realized at the Indianapolis 500

Indys Plat 99

Indys Cerulean, A Gourmet Experience

Zebra in South Park with Chef/Owner Jim Alexander

6

12

18

20

22

30

34

36

42

French Master Chef Herv Laurent Presents

Classic Cuisine Served The Modern Way!

Private Culinary Tour with Celebrity Chef Jet Tila

Jackson Hole Ideal BFF Get-A-Way

A Massage Sampler: Find the Right Rub for You

Jia Li Designs for the Woman Going Places

Model and Actress Summer Crosley Uncovered

Luxury Glamour on the Go

Art in Full Bloom

Perfect Antidote to Seattles Winter Grey Palette, New Chihuly

Garden and Glass

Art of the Matter

44

45

49

53

57

62

66

70

74

76

Contents

2

Luxe Beat Featured Contributor Susan Lanier-Graham

The Underground Railroad

A Noble Line Indeed

The Kennedys Love Affair

with Victura

Washingtons Magnificent

Spooks

Allan KissamBonnie CarrollChef Lance SeetoChloe DicksonDana RebmannDavid BeebeDebbi KickhamDebbie StoneDebi LanderDena RocheDr. Kathy GruverGigi RaglandGillian NicolGina Carroll HowardGraeme KemloHerve LaurentInka Piegas- QuischoteIvan FlowersJanice NiederJason DumasJenna IntersimoneJessica SkropanicKaren CatchpoleKatherine FrelonKurt Winner

Lacey Reeves Larry Larsen Lillian Africano Mandy Rowe Marc dEntremont Marilyn Green Mark Juddery Marti Mayne Mary Haban Michael Cervin Nancy Mueller Nikki MayerNina Africano Norman Hill Rachel Weil Renee Phillips Sandra Chambers Sonja Hegman Stacey Wittig Susan Lanier GrahamThe Cooking Ladies Tim Cotroneo Urmila Ramakrishnan

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84

88

89

SHERRIE WILKOLASKIEditor-in-Chief and Managing Partner

MARALYN D. HILLExecutive Editor

BENJAMIN BENNETTCreative Director

LEAH WALKEREditor-At-Large

MICHELLE WINNEREditor-at-Large

LINDA KISSAMGlobal Wine & Travel Editor-at-Large

DALE SANDERSSenior Travel & Lifestyle Editor/Director of Photography

COURTNEY LOWDENFashion Editor-At-Large

KATHY WANAMAKERSales Associate

CONTRIBUTORS

Luxe Beat Magazine is published in English. Our audience is a global market

with global contributors. Each writes, using the form of English with which

they are familiar. So youll see US, UK, AUS, CAN, versions, etc. We hope this eliminates any confusion on spelling.

3

A Broad Abroad by Mandy Rowe

Book Excerpt

90

A Singular Vision Luxury With A Past

Caballadas By Horse Is Ultimate Patagonian

Adventure

Abu Dhabis Beauty: Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, UAE

Go to Czechs Moravia Region

Layers of Greece: Ancient Stagira to Alexandros

Palace Hotel

A Racing Dream Realized at the Indianapolis 500

Indys Plat 99

Indys Cerulean, A Gourmet Experience

Zebra in South Park with Chef/Owner Jim Alexander

6

12

18

20

22

30

34

36

42

French Master Chef Herv Laurent Presents

Classic Cuisine Served The Modern Way!

Private Culinary Tour with Celebrity Chef Jet Tila

Jackson Hole Ideal BFF Get-A-Way

A Massage Sampler: Find the Right Rub for You

Jia Li Designs for the Woman Going Places

Model and Actress Summer Crosley Uncovered

Luxury Glamour on the Go

Art in Full Bloom

Perfect Antidote to Seattles Winter Grey Palette, New Chihuly

Garden and Glass

Art of the Matter

44

45

49

53

57

62

66

70

74

76

Contents

2

Luxe Beat Featured Contributor Susan Lanier-Graham

The Underground Railroad

A Noble Line Indeed

The Kennedys Love Affair

with Victura

Washingtons Magnificent

Spooks

Allan KissamBonnie CarrollChef Lance SeetoChloe DicksonDana RebmannDavid BeebeDebbi KickhamDebbie StoneDebi LanderDena RocheDr. Kathy GruverGigi RaglandGillian NicolGina Carroll HowardGraeme KemloHerve LaurentInka Piegas- QuischoteIvan FlowersJanice NiederJason DumasJenna IntersimoneJessica SkropanicKaren CatchpoleKatherine FrelonKurt Winner

Lacey Reeves Larry Larsen Lillian Africano Mandy Rowe Marc dEntremont Marilyn Green Mark Juddery Marti Mayne Mary Haban Michael Cervin Nancy Mueller Nikki MayerNina Africano Norman Hill Rachel Weil Renee Phillips Sandra Chambers Sonja Hegman Stacey Wittig Susan Lanier GrahamThe Cooking Ladies Tim Cotroneo Urmila Ramakrishnan

82

84

88

89

SHERRIE WILKOLASKIEditor-in-Chief and Managing Partner

MARALYN D. HILLExecutive Editor

BENJAMIN BENNETTCreative Director

LEAH WALKEREditor-At-Large

MICHELLE WINNEREditor-at-Large

LINDA KISSAMGlobal Wine & Travel Editor-at-Large

DALE SANDERSSenior Travel & Lifestyle Editor/Director of Photography

COURTNEY LOWDENFashion Editor-At-Large

KATHY WANAMAKERSales Associate

CONTRIBUTORS

Luxe Beat Magazine is published in English. Our audience is a global market

with global contributors. Each writes, using the form of English with which

they are familiar. So youll see US, UK, AUS, CAN, versions, etc. We hope this eliminates any confusion on spelling.

3

A Broad Abroad by Mandy Rowe

Book Excerpt

90

BASIC LUXURY is our theme for May 2014 and were talking about some of the must-haves in the world of luxury living. When traveling, dining or entertaining, there is no hesitation about the superiority of what our readers expect. It is a standard of living that is by no means customary, or basic.

We kick-off this edition with a modern-day take on a steampunk fantasy in Southern Chile and then off to find beauty in the incredible Abu Dhabis Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque. Realize your racing dream at the Indianapolis 500 and treat yourself to the gourmet experience at Cerulean after a few laps around the track. Savor reading about Jia Li Designs and what you should be packing for your next luxury getaway to Alexandros Palace Hotel in Greece or perhaps Caballadas in Patagonian is more your style.

Dont ever lose your taste for all that you deserve!

Sherrie WilkolaskiEditor-in-Chief

As you start to read the fourth digital edition of Luxe Beat Magazine, we wish to thank all of you who have visited, read, and spent so much time on our site. Your interest is what keeps our popularity rising.

Now, we are asking for feedback from our readers. With our June issue, we hope enough of you will provide comments that will allow us introduce a Letters to the Editor column. We want to answer your questions, hear your suggestions, thoughts and learn about places weve not covered. Those treasures and hidden spots you are willing to share add interest to our coverage.

We have many enhancements coming, as we grow. Knowing our readers reactions and thoughts matter.

In general, I will answer letters to the editor, but if you have questions for Sherrie, Courtney, Linda, Michelle or Dale please add their name to the subject line.

You can send these to Maralyn@LuxeBeatMag.com.

In this issue, we will also be adding a Luxe Beat Book Review Section. Be sure to check it out and see what weve read this month.

Looking forward to your e-mails.

Maralyn D. Hill, Executive Editor

C O M I N G S O O N

Coconut Bliss is more than just one mans journey to the edge of the world. It is a story of transformation; cultural contrasts and a clearer understanding of how diet and disease are inextricably linked to the seeds of agriculture and the food we eat. Against the backdrop of one of the worlds most exotic and ancient civilizations, Coconut Bliss shines a magisterial spotlight on humanity and the foods of life.

www.lanceseeto.com

BASIC LUXURY is our theme for May 2014 and were talking about some of the must-haves in the world of luxury living. When traveling, dining or entertaining, there is no hesitation about the superiority of what our readers expect. It is a standard of living that is by no means customary, or basic.

We kick-off this edition with a modern-day take on a steampunk fantasy in Southern Chile and then off to find beauty in the incredible Abu Dhabis Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque. Realize your racing dream at the Indianapolis 500 and treat yourself to the gourmet experience at Cerulean after a few laps around the track. Savor reading about Jia Li Designs and what you should be packing for your next luxury getaway to Alexandros Palace Hotel in Greece or perhaps Caballadas in Patagonian is more your style.

Dont ever lose your taste for all that you deserve!

Sherrie WilkolaskiEditor-in-Chief

As you start to read the fourth digital edition of Luxe Beat Magazine, we wish to thank all of you who have visited, read, and spent so much time on our site. Your interest is what keeps our popularity rising.

Now, we are asking for feedback from our readers. With our June issue, we hope enough of you will provide comments that will allow us introduce a Letters to the Editor column. We want to answer your questions, hear your suggestions, thoughts and learn about places weve not covered. Those treasures and hidden spots you are willing to share add interest to our coverage.

We have many enhancements coming, as we grow. Knowing our readers reactions and thoughts matter.

In general, I will answer letters to the editor, but if you have questions for Sherrie, Courtney, Linda, Michelle or Dale please add their name to the subject line.

You can send these to Maralyn@LuxeBeatMag.com.

In this issue, we will also be adding a Luxe Beat Book Review Section. Be sure to check it out and see what weve read this month.

Looking forward to your e-mails.

Maralyn D. Hill, Executive Editor

C O M I N G S O O N

Coconut Bliss is more than just one mans journey to the edge of the world. It is a story of transformation; cultural contrasts and a clearer understanding of how diet and disease are inextricably linked to the seeds of agriculture and the food we eat. Against the backdrop of one of the worlds most exotic and ancient civilizations, Coconut Bliss shines a magisterial spotlight on humanity and the foods of life.

www.lanceseeto.com

A Singular Vision By David Beebe

Each guest room has an amazing view of the Sound from its room wide floor-to-ceiling picture window.

6

A modern day steampunk fantasy has been resurrected from the industrial bones of an early 20th century cold storage plant in Southern Chile. In this historical space, Singular Hotels now offers a 5-star luxury hotel and spa experience like no other. The hotel is visually unique with its immense brick wall architecture, vertical columns supporting high ceilings and large windows that draw in every bit of sunlight. Giant flywheels attached to huge pistons sit next to a complex series of valves that once regulated the flow of ammonia. Electrical generators that bellowed

around-the-clock to feed the industrial heart of the plant are also on display. Luxury rooms and spa facilities are all new construction while the rest of the hotel resides within the original brick walls of the plant.

On the shore of Last Hope Sound, which connects western Patagonia to the Pacific Ocean, this industrial landmark was named a National Historic Monument in 1996. Long abandoned, in 1998, the complex saw a plan of restoration begun by the fourth generation descendants of the original founders. Working

with local architect Pedro Kovacic B, who preserved the sites industrial, post-Victorian feel, the Singular Patagonia hotel opened its doors in 2010.

Visitors arrive at the property and enter a large storage shed that offers drive-in shelter from the weather. At the end of the shed, comfortably enclosed in glass walls, is Reception. While registering for your stay, youll be treated to dark or white chocolate confections that will make you wish they were less efficient so you could linger by the treats a

7

A Singular Vision By David Beebe

Each guest room has an amazing view of the Sound from its room wide floor-to-ceiling picture window.

6

A modern day steampunk fantasy has been resurrected from the industrial bones of an early 20th century cold storage plant in Southern Chile. In this historical space, Singular Hotels now offers a 5-star luxury hotel and spa experience like no other. The hotel is visually unique with its immense brick wall architecture, vertical columns supporting high ceilings and large windows that draw in every bit of sunlight. Giant flywheels attached to huge pistons sit next to a complex series of valves that once regulated the flow of ammonia. Electrical generators that bellowed

around-the-clock to feed the industrial heart of the plant are also on display. Luxury rooms and spa facilities are all new construction while the rest of the hotel resides within the original brick walls of the plant.

On the shore of Last Hope Sound, which connects western Patagonia to the Pacific Ocean, this industrial landmark was named a National Historic Monument in 1996. Long abandoned, in 1998, the complex saw a plan of restoration begun by the fourth generation descendants of the original founders. Working

with local architect Pedro Kovacic B, who preserved the sites industrial, post-Victorian feel, the Singular Patagonia hotel opened its doors in 2010.

Visitors arrive at the property and enter a large storage shed that offers drive-in shelter from the weather. At the end of the shed, comfortably enclosed in glass walls, is Reception. While registering for your stay, youll be treated to dark or white chocolate confections that will make you wish they were less efficient so you could linger by the treats a

7

bit longer. You can choose to walk down the exterior steps or ride the operating funicular that slowly moves you down the hillside to the main part of the complex.

Leaving the front desk area with its whimsical chairs made of old radiators, a long hallway leads to the guest rooms. This hallway showcases much of the machinery imported from England over one hundred years ago. The massive boilers that generated steam for refrigeration and electricity are on display here. The Victorian engine room sits silent today at the end of the hall. Windows along the hallway look out to the original plant office, engine maintenance and blacksmith shops.

There are 54 rooms and 3 suites available to choose from. Keeping with the industrial look of the plant, the exterior of the rooms are clad in sheet metal and rivets. Ceilings are smooth cement. The front walls angle in from ceiling to floor and are lit top and bottom with accent lighting.

A glass walled wine cellar sits under the stairwell.

Intimate sitting areas, with a mix of comfy couches and leather chairs, are scattered around the bar.

A large table in front of the fireplace that seats up to 40 diners.

The bar and main restaurant reside on

the first floor sharing a massive wood

burning fireplace.

8

Each guest room has an amazing view of the Sound from its room wide floor-to-ceiling picture window. You can enjoy this view from an overstuffed chair, ornate wood desk or the king sized bed. The large floor and desk lamps are made of pipes coupled by brass valves and an industrial-sized sense of humor. In the bathroom, a tub that can easily accommodate two sits next to the glass walk-in shower. A mini-bar is stocked with free water and sodas. Despite being located on the edge of a great Chilean wilderness, youll be able to sneak a peek at emails or send photos home via the free, fast Wi-Fi in your room and in the common areas. After getting settled, resume your exploration by returning back along the machine room hallway and past the front desk into a massive space that was once the tannery. A small but well stocked gift shop is at the start of a raised walkway. This space gives you some idea of the

In the bathroom, a tub that can easily accommodate two sits next to the glass walk-in shower.

The spa offers treatments for individuals and couples.

You wont train for an Olympic swim team in this petite

indoor/outdoor heated pool but the view is amazing.

You can enjoy this view from an over-stuffed chair, ornate wood desk or the king sized bed.

9

bit longer. You can choose to walk down the exterior steps or ride the operating funicular that slowly moves you down the hillside to the main part of the complex.

Leaving the front desk area with its whimsical chairs made of old radiators, a long hallway leads to the guest rooms. This hallway showcases much of the machinery imported from England over one hundred years ago. The massive boilers that generated steam for refrigeration and electricity are on display here. The Victorian engine room sits silent today at the end of the hall. Windows along the hallway look out to the original plant office, engine maintenance and blacksmith shops.

There are 54 rooms and 3 suites available to choose from. Keeping with the industrial look of the plant, the exterior of the rooms are clad in sheet metal and rivets. Ceilings are smooth cement. The front walls angle in from ceiling to floor and are lit top and bottom with accent lighting.

A glass walled wine cellar sits under the stairwell.

Intimate sitting areas, with a mix of comfy couches and leather chairs, are scattered around the bar.

A large table in front of the fireplace that seats up to 40 diners.

The bar and main restaurant reside on

the first floor sharing a massive wood

burning fireplace.

8

Each guest room has an amazing view of the Sound from its room wide floor-to-ceiling picture window. You can enjoy this view from an overstuffed chair, ornate wood desk or the king sized bed. The large floor and desk lamps are made of pipes coupled by brass valves and an industrial-sized sense of humor. In the bathroom, a tub that can easily accommodate two sits next to the glass walk-in shower. A mini-bar is stocked with free water and sodas. Despite being located on the edge of a great Chilean wilderness, youll be able to sneak a peek at emails or send photos home via the free, fast Wi-Fi in your room and in the common areas. After getting settled, resume your exploration by returning back along the machine room hallway and past the front desk into a massive space that was once the tannery. A small but well stocked gift shop is at the start of a raised walkway. This space gives you some idea of the

In the bathroom, a tub that can easily accommodate two sits next to the glass walk-in shower.

The spa offers treatments for individuals and couples.

You wont train for an Olympic swim team in this petite

indoor/outdoor heated pool but the view is amazing.

You can enjoy this view from an over-stuffed chair, ornate wood desk or the king sized bed.

9

true scale of the plant. On display are carts, various bits of equipment and even one of the steam locomotives purchased in 1915 to load and unload ships. Continue along the walkway to the glass doors at the end.

The original 3 floors of the tannery building now house the social epicenter of the hotel. The bar and main restaurant reside on the first floor sharing a massive wood burning fireplace.

Intimate sitting areas, with a mix of comfy couches and leather chairs, are scattered around the bar with its dark woods and shiny brass accents. An impressive selection of wine representing each of Chiles wine growing regions is encased in a glass wall cellar under the stairwell to tempt you on your way to the main dining area.

Tables, large and small, share the dining room floor with more cosy seating areas framing low coffee tables. Set off on its own, between the bar and dining areas, is a massive table in front of the fireplace that seats up to 40 diners.

Your meal is prepared in full sight in the open kitchen and what a meal it is. The culinary team, lead by Chef Laurent Pasqualetto, has prepared a menu that is a delight with its large and creative selections and tempting specials. They will, as one expects with a five star dining experience, happily modify your choice to accommodate your dietary preferences or allergies. They even offer gluten-free bread. It would take a very extended stay to exhaust all of the epicurean options offered here but give the local meat specialties, such as guanaco or hare, serious consideration. They are both beyond excellent. Breakfast and lunch are served in the second floor dining area. Breakfast has a buffet of fresh fruits, juices, cereals and cold cuts to start with while your made-to-order eggs are prepared. The lunch menu has a wide range of salads, sandwiches and smaller entrees. The top floor has been intentionally left wide-open and is available to be customized for hosting large events. PH

OTO

GR

APH

Y B

Y D

AVID

R. B

EEBE

.

The heart of the Victorian engine room sits silent today.

A wide underground tunnel that takes you to an exterior hallway.

Windows look out to the original plant office, engine maintenance and blacksmith shops.

Glass walls encase the hallways and look out through slatted wood walls and floors.

10

Retreating back through the machine room hallway and past half of the first floor guest rooms are steps that lead down to a wide underground tunnel that takes you to glass enclosed hallway.

You can take the first exit to the historic pier and dock used by the hotels tour boats. Otherwise, continue to where the pool, sauna, steam room and spa can be found. You wont train for an Olympic swim team in this petite indoor/outdoor heated pool but the view is amazing. A full complement of spa services awaits you that can be scheduled individually or for couples.

The excursion desk can help you select from dozens of varied activities. These range from

easy adventures such as sailing, fly fishing, cycling or horseback riding to more exhilarating tours kayaking the sound or full day treks to Torres del Paine national park. If you want to dedicate more time to the national park during your stay, you can move to Tierra Patagonia Hotel and Spa (Luxury At The End Of The Earth, LuxeBeat Magazine, December, 2013) for a few days and bookend your trip at the Singular Patagonia as we did.

To get here, the port of entry for international air travellers is Chiles capital city of Santiago. Located about half way down this long, thin country, it takes a bit over 3 hours to fly further south with LAN Chile to the Patagonian gateway city of Punta Arenas. A 3-hour drive brings you to Puerto Bories and the five-star

Singular Patagonia. Recipient of numerous awards, such as the 2013 Trip Advisor Travelers Choice and Fodors New and Noteworthy in 2013, the hotel maintains a high staff to guest ratio and is dedicated to providing the best service possible.History, location and luxury merge into a quintessential experience unmatched anywhere. Travelers to this unique property celebrate Patagonias early industrial accomplishments in style. They leave with a desire to return again to be pampered within these walls and to explore this unique part of the world.

You can find more information about this magnificent property at their website thesingular.com/patagonia/.

Massive boilers that generated steam for refrigeration and

electricity are on display here.

The lodge entry hall is elegant in its simplicity

A raised walkway brings you to the tannery.

11

true scale of the plant. On display are carts, various bits of equipment and even one of the steam locomotives purchased in 1915 to load and unload ships. Continue along the walkway to the glass doors at the end.

The original 3 floors of the tannery building now house the social epicenter of the hotel. The bar and main restaurant reside on the first floor sharing a massive wood burning fireplace.

Intimate sitting areas, with a mix of comfy couches and leather chairs, are scattered around the bar with its dark woods and shiny brass accents. An impressive selection of wine representing each of Chiles wine growing regions is encased in a glass wall cellar under the stairwell to tempt you on your way to the main dining area.

Tables, large and small, share the dining room floor with more cosy seating areas framing low coffee tables. Set off on its own, between the bar and dining areas, is a massive table in front of the fireplace that seats up to 40 diners.

Your meal is prepared in full sight in the open kitchen and what a meal it is. The culinary team, lead by Chef Laurent Pasqualetto, has prepared a menu that is a delight with its large and creative selections and tempting specials. They will, as one expects with a five star dining experience, happily modify your choice to accommodate your dietary preferences or allergies. They even offer gluten-free bread. It would take a very extended stay to exhaust all of the epicurean options offered here but give the local meat specialties, such as guanaco or hare, serious consideration. They are both beyond excellent. Breakfast and lunch are served in the second floor dining area. Breakfast has a buffet of fresh fruits, juices, cereals and cold cuts to start with while your made-to-order eggs are prepared. The lunch menu has a wide range of salads, sandwiches and smaller entrees. The top floor has been intentionally left wide-open and is available to be customized for hosting large events. PH

OTO

GR

APH

Y B

Y D

AVID

R. B

EEBE

.

The heart of the Victorian engine room sits silent today.

A wide underground tunnel that takes you to an exterior hallway.

Windows look out to the original plant office, engine maintenance and blacksmith shops.

Glass walls encase the hallways and look out through slatted wood walls and floors.

10

Retreating back through the machine room hallway and past half of the first floor guest rooms are steps that lead down to a wide underground tunnel that takes you to glass enclosed hallway.

You can take the first exit to the historic pier and dock used by the hotels tour boats. Otherwise, continue to where the pool, sauna, steam room and spa can be found. You wont train for an Olympic swim team in this petite indoor/outdoor heated pool but the view is amazing. A full complement of spa services awaits you that can be scheduled individually or for couples.

The excursion desk can help you select from dozens of varied activities. These range from

easy adventures such as sailing, fly fishing, cycling or horseback riding to more exhilarating tours kayaking the sound or full day treks to Torres del Paine national park. If you want to dedicate more time to the national park during your stay, you can move to Tierra Patagonia Hotel and Spa (Luxury At The End Of The Earth, LuxeBeat Magazine, December, 2013) for a few days and bookend your trip at the Singular Patagonia as we did.

To get here, the port of entry for international air travellers is Chiles capital city of Santiago. Located about half way down this long, thin country, it takes a bit over 3 hours to fly further south with LAN Chile to the Patagonian gateway city of Punta Arenas. A 3-hour drive brings you to Puerto Bories and the five-star

Singular Patagonia. Recipient of numerous awards, such as the 2013 Trip Advisor Travelers Choice and Fodors New and Noteworthy in 2013, the hotel maintains a high staff to guest ratio and is dedicated to providing the best service possible.History, location and luxury merge into a quintessential experience unmatched anywhere. Travelers to this unique property celebrate Patagonias early industrial accomplishments in style. They leave with a desire to return again to be pampered within these walls and to explore this unique part of the world.

You can find more information about this magnificent property at their website thesingular.com/patagonia/.

Massive boilers that generated steam for refrigeration and

electricity are on display here.

The lodge entry hall is elegant in its simplicity

A raised walkway brings you to the tannery.

11

Caballadas By Horse

By Michelle WinnerPhotography by Keith Edwards

The varied terrain of the estancia challenges and

exhilarates riders.

13

Caballadas By Horse

By Michelle WinnerPhotography by Keith Edwards

The varied terrain of the estancia challenges and

exhilarates riders.

13

But lets back up. Experienced trail riders know that if you have to go under a thicket of low trees, you should keep your head lower than your horses. When I saw the inevitable coming, I tried to flatten to my mounts neck, but my riding helmet prevented me from doing so. This created a gap at the neck of my jacket, which was immediately speared by a branch. I figured the best bet was to release the stirrups and roll off.

Are you O.K? Santiago cries as he races towards me on his young polo-pony-in-training.He looks concerned, while I manage an embarrassed smile and answer Yes.After a short appraisal, Santiago asks Can you ride?

But he knows the answer before I do. I have come to Argentina, all the way from the Pacific Northwest, to his wifes family estate in North Patagonia, to ride. And damn-it-all, I will ride. But likely due to the determined look on my dusty face, and the thorns and dirt sticking out of my blasted helmet and coat, we both break out in rib-shaking laughter. At least they arent broken.

This private estancia in Patagonia is over 2 hours from the airport of San Martin de Los Andes by bumpy, dusty, mostly unpaved road. The planes come and go from here and Bariloche Airport (5 hours away) only on certain days of the week.

So planning your visit is centered around the air travel schedule. But there is little worry here on this bright spring day in early December; the family has thought of everything for their guests including horseback rides, three meals a day, lovely Argentine and Chilean wines and comfortable rooms in the familys summer home known as the lodge.

The beautiful lodge was made from logs cut on the property and is a study in the elegance of natural materials. This belies the fact that everything has to be brought in here. We are indeed in the middle of nowhere and that is the exact reason most want to come. Stone floors anchor the main level containing entry way, open-plan dining and living rooms, covered patio, modern kitchen and steps to

The lodge at Caballadas

The lodge entry hall is elegant in its simplicity

I am momentarily stunned. I find myself on rocky ground tangled in sparse grass, sprawled out between the stones, under thorny scrub trees.

14

a system using the natural spring and wood fire to heat the home and water. Comfortable, tasteful furnishings complement the natural environment surrounding the lodge, the center and heart of ranch life. From this prominent spot on a hill overlooking thousands of acres, the lodges main living spaces have large windows to stupendous views of the mountains and valley below. Sunrise is a quiet time to wander out on the deck and watch the mountains and far-away valley lighten, as the deep violet shadows of night awaken and are chased away by the sun.

Rooms have baths (private and shared), and provide spaces for singles, couples or families. After all, this home was built for a large multi-generational family that still comes together to share each summer. You can almost hear laughter in the halls and the ghosts of a thousand memories.

Bouncing along in Mr. Uriburus truck to prepare the boat for a ride on the lake, he passionately describes the estancia and natural environment shaping much of his familys identity and lifestyle. He tells me with unwavering conviction that the current generation is very committed to preserving the estancia and the legacy here, It is simple and very clear, we have to preserve and care

for this place so the next generation and their children can enjoy it as we have.

To accomplish this, the estancia opened the property to a multi-night stay horseback riding program they call Caballadas. Part of the forward-thinking present generation caring for this magical place are two sisters, Agustina and Isabel Lagos Mrmol, who do world-wide promotions, bookings and lodge management. Isabels husband, Santiago Uriburu, is the polo playing horseman who runs the incredible riding program. For serious riders desiring this bespoke adventure, you must be experienced, skilled on outdoor terrain, poses a great sense of adventure and be willing to ride steep mountain trails. The reason for being this specific was explained to me, as we gathered with other guests in front of the stone fireplace and shared a bottle of wine. As Santiago says, We ask that (only) people with an adventurous attitude, who can deal with adversity and are athletically fit come and ride. A positive mental attitude is important, as here we are surrounded by an ever-changing wilderness environment. We are in a remote place. So advanced intermediate or expert riders are best; safety is the reason.

Mr. Uriburu has trained many of the horses. They are beautiful, sure-footed and athletic.

His best have a polo ponys stamina bred with a Criollos sure-footed gait and brave heart. An honest assessment of your abilities and temperament is made initially by this expert polo player. The day you arrive you are required to ride. Then he matches you with the perfect mount. The Chilean saddles are very comfortable for long rides through the mountains and made more comfortable by the sheep skin on top of the saddle seat. Tack is meticulously cared for and Mr. Uriburu is an encouraging friendly master horseman sometimes accompanied by a silent, steady gaucho guide.

Out here you cant make mistakes.

I observed his treatment and interaction with his horses. Most of them are beloved companions belonging to a family member.

Santiago Uriburu, an expert horseman, runs the riding program at

Caballadas

Local artisans weave blankets and saddle bags

A ride on the lake, a hike in the park, a swim and even playing or fishing in the river full of rainbow trout can be part of guests exploration of this magnificent place.

15

But lets back up. Experienced trail riders know that if you have to go under a thicket of low trees, you should keep your head lower than your horses. When I saw the inevitable coming, I tried to flatten to my mounts neck, but my riding helmet prevented me from doing so. This created a gap at the neck of my jacket, which was immediately speared by a branch. I figured the best bet was to release the stirrups and roll off.

Are you O.K? Santiago cries as he races towards me on his young polo-pony-in-training.He looks concerned, while I manage an embarrassed smile and answer Yes.After a short appraisal, Santiago asks Can you ride?

But he knows the answer before I do. I have come to Argentina, all the way from the Pacific Northwest, to his wifes family estate in North Patagonia, to ride. And damn-it-all, I will ride. But likely due to the determined look on my dusty face, and the thorns and dirt sticking out of my blasted helmet and coat, we both break out in rib-shaking laughter. At least they arent broken.

This private estancia in Patagonia is over 2 hours from the airport of San Martin de Los Andes by bumpy, dusty, mostly unpaved road. The planes come and go from here and Bariloche Airport (5 hours away) only on certain days of the week.

So planning your visit is centered around the air travel schedule. But there is little worry here on this bright spring day in early December; the family has thought of everything for their guests including horseback rides, three meals a day, lovely Argentine and Chilean wines and comfortable rooms in the familys summer home known as the lodge.

The beautiful lodge was made from logs cut on the property and is a study in the elegance of natural materials. This belies the fact that everything has to be brought in here. We are indeed in the middle of nowhere and that is the exact reason most want to come. Stone floors anchor the main level containing entry way, open-plan dining and living rooms, covered patio, modern kitchen and steps to

The lodge at Caballadas

The lodge entry hall is elegant in its simplicity

I am momentarily stunned. I find myself on rocky ground tangled in sparse grass, sprawled out between the stones, under thorny scrub trees.

14

a system using the natural spring and wood fire to heat the home and water. Comfortable, tasteful furnishings complement the natural environment surrounding the lodge, the center and heart of ranch life. From this prominent spot on a hill overlooking thousands of acres, the lodges main living spaces have large windows to stupendous views of the mountains and valley below. Sunrise is a quiet time to wander out on the deck and watch the mountains and far-away valley lighten, as the deep violet shadows of night awaken and are chased away by the sun.

Rooms have baths (private and shared), and provide spaces for singles, couples or families. After all, this home was built for a large multi-generational family that still comes together to share each summer. You can almost hear laughter in the halls and the ghosts of a thousand memories.

Bouncing along in Mr. Uriburus truck to prepare the boat for a ride on the lake, he passionately describes the estancia and natural environment shaping much of his familys identity and lifestyle. He tells me with unwavering conviction that the current generation is very committed to preserving the estancia and the legacy here, It is simple and very clear, we have to preserve and care

for this place so the next generation and their children can enjoy it as we have.

To accomplish this, the estancia opened the property to a multi-night stay horseback riding program they call Caballadas. Part of the forward-thinking present generation caring for this magical place are two sisters, Agustina and Isabel Lagos Mrmol, who do world-wide promotions, bookings and lodge management. Isabels husband, Santiago Uriburu, is the polo playing horseman who runs the incredible riding program. For serious riders desiring this bespoke adventure, you must be experienced, skilled on outdoor terrain, poses a great sense of adventure and be willing to ride steep mountain trails. The reason for being this specific was explained to me, as we gathered with other guests in front of the stone fireplace and shared a bottle of wine. As Santiago says, We ask that (only) people with an adventurous attitude, who can deal with adversity and are athletically fit come and ride. A positive mental attitude is important, as here we are surrounded by an ever-changing wilderness environment. We are in a remote place. So advanced intermediate or expert riders are best; safety is the reason.

Mr. Uriburu has trained many of the horses. They are beautiful, sure-footed and athletic.

His best have a polo ponys stamina bred with a Criollos sure-footed gait and brave heart. An honest assessment of your abilities and temperament is made initially by this expert polo player. The day you arrive you are required to ride. Then he matches you with the perfect mount. The Chilean saddles are very comfortable for long rides through the mountains and made more comfortable by the sheep skin on top of the saddle seat. Tack is meticulously cared for and Mr. Uriburu is an encouraging friendly master horseman sometimes accompanied by a silent, steady gaucho guide.

Out here you cant make mistakes.

I observed his treatment and interaction with his horses. Most of them are beloved companions belonging to a family member.

Santiago Uriburu, an expert horseman, runs the riding program at

Caballadas

Local artisans weave blankets and saddle bags

A ride on the lake, a hike in the park, a swim and even playing or fishing in the river full of rainbow trout can be part of guests exploration of this magnificent place.

15

Well-conditioned, they are allowed to graze outside the immaculate barn. Santiagos irrigation system uses the river and streams on property. His ingenious use of a small trench dug along the pastures ensures there is green pasture for the horses. Water is diverted by blocking off the flow with mud and stone moving water flow to another trench. Simple and effective.

Part of Volcano Lanin National Park with 379,000 hectares of native Patagonia forest, surrounds the 60,000 acre estancia. Chile is many hours ride away. A huge mountain lake laps nearby at one end of the property where they keep their day boat tethered. A ride on the lake, a hike in the park, a swim and even playing or fishing in the river full of rainbow trout can be part of guests exploration of this magnificent place.

Meals are prepared by local cooks and breakfasts can include pastries, fruit, meats and eggs. Dinner can surprise as an entree could be an expertly prepared stuffed manicotti or a roasted lamb feast. Your dietary preferences are considered. A traditional Argentine steak barbeque for lunch at the gauchos barn down in the valley becomes the reward in the middle of a ride. One highlight was a picnic of traditional meat pies, cheese

The vistas are all inspiring; snow-topped mountains, pristine lakes, rivers to cross, overnight horse camping, and adrenaline shifting gallops through the grasses.

16

and sweets spread out beside a stream up in the Araucaria Araucana (Monkey Puzzle tree) forest shading a remote gaucho camp.

Santiago will create bespoke rides for you too. Expect to ride 6 hours or more a day. The vistas are all inspiring; snow-topped mountains, pristine lakes, rivers to cross, overnight horse camping, and adrenaline shifting gallops through the grasses. All make coming home

to a hot shower and beautiful evening meal that much sweeter. Caballadas can take a maximum of 8 riders at a time on the estancia. Availability is seasonal and runs November to mid-December, and through March and April.

Remembering that South American seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere means Caballadas is open during Spring and Fall to those of us arriving from North America.

But now, as I pick myself up and remount for our ride towards a distant mountain, I brush the dust off. But I wont be able to take the grin off my face all day. The estancia is one of the most magnificent places to ride in the world. This is heaven for horseback riders.

Caballadas.com

The sideboard is laid with a bounty of lunch dishes

Steaks sizzle for the lunch at the gauchos barn

The gaucho at Caballadas know every trail through

the estancia

Evening wine as violet shadows color the

scenery at the Lodge at Caballadas

17

Well-conditioned, they are allowed to graze outside the immaculate barn. Santiagos irrigation system uses the river and streams on property. His ingenious use of a small trench dug along the pastures ensures there is green pasture for the horses. Water is diverted by blocking off the flow with mud and stone moving water flow to another trench. Simple and effective.

Part of Volcano Lanin National Park with 379,000 hectares of native Patagonia forest, surrounds the 60,000 acre estancia. Chile is many hours ride away. A huge mountain lake laps nearby at one end of the property where they keep their day boat tethered. A ride on the lake, a hike in the park, a swim and even playing or fishing in the river full of rainbow trout can be part of guests exploration of this magnificent place.

Meals are prepared by local cooks and breakfasts can include pastries, fruit, meats and eggs. Dinner can surprise as an entree could be an expertly prepared stuffed manicotti or a roasted lamb feast. Your dietary preferences are considered. A traditional Argentine steak barbeque for lunch at the gauchos barn down in the valley becomes the reward in the middle of a ride. One highlight was a picnic of traditional meat pies, cheese

The vistas are all inspiring; snow-topped mountains, pristine lakes, rivers to cross, overnight horse camping, and adrenaline shifting gallops through the grasses.

16

and sweets spread out beside a stream up in the Araucaria Araucana (Monkey Puzzle tree) forest shading a remote gaucho camp.

Santiago will create bespoke rides for you too. Expect to ride 6 hours or more a day. The vistas are all inspiring; snow-topped mountains, pristine lakes, rivers to cross, overnight horse camping, and adrenaline shifting gallops through the grasses. All make coming home

to a hot shower and beautiful evening meal that much sweeter. Caballadas can take a maximum of 8 riders at a time on the estancia. Availability is seasonal and runs November to mid-December, and through March and April.

Remembering that South American seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere means Caballadas is open during Spring and Fall to those of us arriving from North America.

But now, as I pick myself up and remount for our ride towards a distant mountain, I brush the dust off. But I wont be able to take the grin off my face all day. The estancia is one of the most magnificent places to ride in the world. This is heaven for horseback riders.

Caballadas.com

The sideboard is laid with a bounty of lunch dishes

Steaks sizzle for the lunch at the gauchos barn

The gaucho at Caballadas know every trail through

the estancia

Evening wine as violet shadows color the

scenery at the Lodge at Caballadas

17

By Debi Lander

Abu Dhabis Beauty: Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, UAE

Inner Courtyard of Grand Mosque

Beauty at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Arches detail at the Grand

Mosque.

Looking up at the chandelier

Twilight at Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

18

I approached slowly, feeling a gentle pull, as if by a magnetic force. Then, I wanted to stop, cement my feet to the ground, and simply stare. My mouth gaped open, like an opera singer belting an aria, as I tried to comprehend the extreme, yet serene view. Ahead of me lie a bevy of marble domes, four towering minarets, and a thousand jeweled columns rising from delicate inlaid floors. Yet, I had thoughts of Aladdin and magic carpets in my head. My western upbringing slipped back to childhood storybooks. I recalled pictures from the Tales of 1,001 Arabian Nights. Since Im not an experienced Middle East traveler, the architecture seemed exotic and foreign. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, is (of course) a religious shrine and not a fairytale fabrication. The pure white-on-white structure is an astonishing architectural treasure, a tranquil site that seems too beautiful to be real. I foresee it earning iconic status, like Notre Dame or the Taj Mahal. Perhaps it will replace one of the 7 New Wonders of the World when it becomes more widely recognized. The Grand Mosque began as a dream in the heart of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al-Nahyan. Plans for the building were developed in the late 1980s; however, construction didnt start until November 5, 1996. At one point, more than 3,000 workers were employed onsite. Today, the 241,220 square foot complex is equivalent to about five NFL football fields and can accommodate 41,000 worshipers, approximately 10,000 of those on the interior. Although some areas, like the gardens, are still under construction, the internal prayer halls first opened in 2007 and have remained in use since.

The public is welcome to visit on their own or for guided tours inside and out, except on Fridays when only Muslims may enter. Dress rules should be followed and black gowns, called abayas, are available for women needing additional covering. Tour guides are very open to answering questions and mine did his best to help me understand the countrys prevailing religion. The Grand Mosque features more than 80 domes of Moroccan design or onion shaped crowns, all decorated with white marble. The main domes outer shell measures 107 feet in diameter and stands 279 feet tall on the exterior the largest of its kind, according to the Turkey Research Center for Islamic History and Culture. While huge and gracefully divine, it is not the same shape nor as immense as Brunelleschis dome in Florence or St. Peters Basilica in the Vatican.

Youll find 96 columns in the main prayer hall, all inlaid with mother of pearl. The worlds largest chandelier is suspended under the main dome and weighs over twelve tons. The sparkling jewel represents the date palm; the tree that sustains life in this desert region. There are six additional chandeliers and all feature thousands of Swarovski crystals from Austria and glass-work from Italy. Id say, gargantuanly gorgeous is an understatement.

Youll also find yourself standing on the worlds largest hand-knotted carpet. The Mosques Visitor Services states, It was designed by Iranian artist, Ali Khaliqi. The carpet consists of 2,268,000 knots all hand-crafted by approximately 1,200 artisans in small villages near Mashhadin in Iran, a region renowned for its carpet making. The staff change the sanctioned off visitor walkways daily, to even out wear on the rug.

The Qibla wall faces the direction of the Holy City of Mecca, the direction used during prayers. The expanse, measuring 75 feet high by 164 feet wide, contains subtle fiber-optic lighting, giving it a faint ethereal glow. Inscribed on the wall, in traditional Kufi calligraphy, are the 99 names or qualities of Allah. My guide explained these with examples such as the Most Merciful, the Almighty, and the Judge. The Mehrab (niche found in the middle of the Qibla wall) is showcased with golden-glass mosaics. Interior spaces are roped off for those who have come to pray.

While security does not permit wandering just anywhere, the grounds are so spacious;

it remains possible to find quiet retreats. The outdoor reflection pools adjacent to the arched colonnades called to me. I could have sat there pondering the perfection in this peaceful place for hours.

As the sun was setting, I heard the traditional call to prayer and watched the faithful file in; many were workers at the Mosque. I photographed the exterior arches and domes as the sky darkened and the site came alive, literally glowing with illumination. Visitors to Abu Dhabi should see the shrine by day and night to fully appreciate its grandeur.

Similar to grand Gothic cathedrals, now over a thousand years old, the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque will develop and mature as a pilgrimage site for Muslims and tourists during the next millennium. Tis humbling to stand in a relatively new sacred place, yet realize that millions will witness the powerful spot over time. The United Arab Emirates has created a sublime work of art that can withstand the test of time.

Photography by Debi Lander.

Abu Dhabis Grand Mosque

Within the Grand Mosque

19

By Debi Lander

Abu Dhabis Beauty: Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque, UAE

Inner Courtyard of Grand Mosque

Beauty at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Arches detail at the Grand

Mosque.

Looking up at the chandelier

Twilight at Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

18

I approached slowly, feeling a gentle pull, as if by a magnetic force. Then, I wanted to stop, cement my feet to the ground, and simply stare. My mouth gaped open, like an opera singer belting an aria, as I tried to comprehend the extreme, yet serene view. Ahead of me lie a bevy of marble domes, four towering minarets, and a thousand jeweled columns rising from delicate inlaid floors. Yet, I had thoughts of Aladdin and magic carpets in my head. My western upbringing slipped back to childhood storybooks. I recalled pictures from the Tales of 1,001 Arabian Nights. Since Im not an experienced Middle East traveler, the architecture seemed exotic and foreign. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, is (of course) a religious shrine and not a fairytale fabrication. The pure white-on-white structure is an astonishing architectural treasure, a tranquil site that seems too beautiful to be real. I foresee it earning iconic status, like Notre Dame or the Taj Mahal. Perhaps it will replace one of the 7 New Wonders of the World when it becomes more widely recognized. The Grand Mosque began as a dream in the heart of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al-Nahyan. Plans for the building were developed in the late 1980s; however, construction didnt start until November 5, 1996. At one point, more than 3,000 workers were employed onsite. Today, the 241,220 square foot complex is equivalent to about five NFL football fields and can accommodate 41,000 worshipers, approximately 10,000 of those on the interior. Although some areas, like the gardens, are still under construction, the internal prayer halls first opened in 2007 and have remained in use since.

The public is welcome to visit on their own or for guided tours inside and out, except on Fridays when only Muslims may enter. Dress rules should be followed and black gowns, called abayas, are available for women needing additional covering. Tour guides are very open to answering questions and mine did his best to help me understand the countrys prevailing religion. The Grand Mosque features more than 80 domes of Moroccan design or onion shaped crowns, all decorated with white marble. The main domes outer shell measures 107 feet in diameter and stands 279 feet tall on the exterior the largest of its kind, according to the Turkey Research Center for Islamic History and Culture. While huge and gracefully divine, it is not the same shape nor as immense as Brunelleschis dome in Florence or St. Peters Basilica in the Vatican.

Youll find 96 columns in the main prayer hall, all inlaid with mother of pearl. The worlds largest chandelier is suspended under the main dome and weighs over twelve tons. The sparkling jewel represents the date palm; the tree that sustains life in this desert region. There are six additional chandeliers and all feature thousands of Swarovski crystals from Austria and glass-work from Italy. Id say, gargantuanly gorgeous is an understatement.

Youll also find yourself standing on the worlds largest hand-knotted carpet. The Mosques Visitor Services states, It was designed by Iranian artist, Ali Khaliqi. The carpet consists of 2,268,000 knots all hand-crafted by approximately 1,200 artisans in small villages near Mashhadin in Iran, a region renowned for its carpet making. The staff change the sanctioned off visitor walkways daily, to even out wear on the rug.

The Qibla wall faces the direction of the Holy City of Mecca, the direction used during prayers. The expanse, measuring 75 feet high by 164 feet wide, contains subtle fiber-optic lighting, giving it a faint ethereal glow. Inscribed on the wall, in traditional Kufi calligraphy, are the 99 names or qualities of Allah. My guide explained these with examples such as the Most Merciful, the Almighty, and the Judge. The Mehrab (niche found in the middle of the Qibla wall) is showcased with golden-glass mosaics. Interior spaces are roped off for those who have come to pray.

While security does not permit wandering just anywhere, the grounds are so spacious;

it remains possible to find quiet retreats. The outdoor reflection pools adjacent to the arched colonnades called to me. I could have sat there pondering the perfection in this peaceful place for hours.

As the sun was setting, I heard the traditional call to prayer and watched the faithful file in; many were workers at the Mosque. I photographed the exterior arches and domes as the sky darkened and the site came alive, literally glowing with illumination. Visitors to Abu Dhabi should see the shrine by day and night to fully appreciate its grandeur.

Similar to grand Gothic cathedrals, now over a thousand years old, the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque will develop and mature as a pilgrimage site for Muslims and tourists during the next millennium. Tis humbling to stand in a relatively new sacred place, yet realize that millions will witness the powerful spot over time. The United Arab Emirates has created a sublime work of art that can withstand the test of time.

Photography by Debi Lander.

Abu Dhabis Grand Mosque

Within the Grand Mosque

19

In this last of three articles about the Czech Republic (see Prague, then Kutna Hora trips), we move on from Brnos top-tier comforts to the south Moravia wine region of Czech Republic. The picturesque countryside becomes smaller villages built around agriculture. The region is a favorite of neighboring peoples of Europe for hiking and bicycling through old vineyards and chateau with cellars dating back to the 13th century. Registered here are two World Heritage UNESCO sites, the Palava Landscape Protected Area and the Lednice-Valtice Landscape Complex. This latter area is the Garden of Europe because of the landscaping and much of it can be seen on day trips out of the town of Mikulov. The touring can focus on man-made landscaping of a massive scale conducted in the 18th through 19th centuries (by the family Liechtenstein). A series of ponds created produced a riparian-forested area that teems with wildlife. Having built a huge playground, the wealthy of the era built chateau and

pavilions to use in hunting, winemaking, and other activities. The area is near Austria, and Vienna is close to one hour by car. Accommodations are all medium priced, typically with excellent food services in the hotel. Several hotels in the area include spa with wine treatment facials for the ladies. There are hotels associated with a popular winery (Hotel Marcincak and Winery Marcincak), good locations for venturing out on foot or bicycle (Kravi Hora), and full services including meeting space (Hotel Galant). Historic Valtice is the location of the chateau built by the family Liechtenstein. Tours of chateau in the area are worthwhile to see fine period decorations and even original serving china. In the particular instance of Valtice Chateau, the Czech National Wine Center (located in the chateau cellars) offers the unique opportunity to taste wines from all of the regions in one visit. Included is information on the special soils, climate, and grape varietals at each winery or vineyard area. This wine center is also known as the salon, so dont be confused. Wines from

Winery Sonberk provide an optimal location to taste the Palava area wines and view the rolling hills that display unusual beauty. Following tasting in the morning, consider tasting authentic local food at Caf Fara in Palava, which also provides lodging.

It is difficult to be in Czech Republic and ignore the excellent beers. Wine tasting is to enjoy an art form, but so is beer, and here is where to go for beer production, lunch, and lodging. In Cerna Hora is the Cerna Hora Brewery and Hotel Sladovna. If REALLY into beer, enjoy the therapeutics of taking a beer bath in the hotel spa. What is there left to do in southern Moravia? If unsatisfied after taking a beer bath, touring castles, sampling wines in cellars going back to the Middle Ages, and walking through the gardens of the Lichtenstein family ask yourself where all the wild boar used in Czech traditional cooking comes from. So, take off to the hills for wild boar hunting. The wild boar are dangerous, have sharp tusks, and weigh up to 600 pounds. They forage in the farmers

Go to Czechs Moravia RegionBy Allan Kissam

20

fields or throughout the surrounding government managed forests. Watch the Prague police chase down a rampaging boar in the city streets here. In Medieval times, dogs and long pikes were used in hunting of wild boar. Fitted on the pike was a cross bar to prevent the impaled animal from charging up the pike to gore the hunter. Male boars with

tusks can knock a person down and tear with the tusks. Even today, the hunter has to be careful not to approach a wounded animal or use light calibers in hunting. Common sense is to employ an experienced guide. Beyond clothing for the hunt, arrangements by Shooting Enterprise Ltd can book the lodge, provide proper caliber weapons, and get the meat home for an unusual backyard BBQ with friends. Official government information (pdf

document) about the game preserves are available here. Arrangements for the trip home should include more down time in Prague. The historic city center is a World Heritage Site (UNESCO) and the city is on the same global-city scale of Berlin, Copenhagen, or Dallas. Prague is documented to over one thousand years, so a few days to enjoy the museums and world-class culture is a worthy investment for ending the trip in fashion. Have a great trip!

Go to Czechs Moravia Region

21

In this last of three articles about the Czech Republic (see Prague, then Kutna Hora trips), we move on from Brnos top-tier comforts to the south Moravia wine region of Czech Republic. The picturesque countryside becomes smaller villages built around agriculture. The region is a favorite of neighboring peoples of Europe for hiking and bicycling through old vineyards and chateau with cellars dating back to the 13th century. Registered here are two World Heritage UNESCO sites, the Palava Landscape Protected Area and the Lednice-Valtice Landscape Complex. This latter area is the Garden of Europe because of the landscaping and much of it can be seen on day trips out of the town of Mikulov. The touring can focus on man-made landscaping of a massive scale conducted in the 18th through 19th centuries (by the family Liechtenstein). A series of ponds created produced a riparian-forested area that teems with wildlife. Having built a huge playground, the wealthy of the era built chateau and

pavilions to use in hunting, winemaking, and other activities. The area is near Austria, and Vienna is close to one hour by car. Accommodations are all medium priced, typically with excellent food services in the hotel. Several hotels in the area include spa with wine treatment facials for the ladies. There are hotels associated with a popular winery (Hotel Marcincak and Winery Marcincak), good locations for venturing out on foot or bicycle (Kravi Hora), and full services including meeting space (Hotel Galant). Historic Valtice is the location of the chateau built by the family Liechtenstein. Tours of chateau in the area are worthwhile to see fine period decorations and even original serving china. In the particular instance of Valtice Chateau, the Czech National Wine Center (located in the chateau cellars) offers the unique opportunity to taste wines from all of the regions in one visit. Included is information on the special soils, climate, and grape varietals at each winery or vineyard area. This wine center is also known as the salon, so dont be confused. Wines from

Winery Sonberk provide an optimal location to taste the Palava area wines and view the rolling hills that display unusual beauty. Following tasting in the morning, consider tasting authentic local food at Caf Fara in Palava, which also provides lodging.

It is difficult to be in Czech Republic and ignore the excellent beers. Wine tasting is to enjoy an art form, but so is beer, and here is where to go for beer production, lunch, and lodging. In Cerna Hora is the Cerna Hora Brewery and Hotel Sladovna. If REALLY into beer, enjoy the therapeutics of taking a beer bath in the hotel spa. What is there left to do in southern Moravia? If unsatisfied after taking a beer bath, touring castles, sampling wines in cellars going back to the Middle Ages, and walking through the gardens of the Lichtenstein family ask yourself where all the wild boar used in Czech traditional cooking comes from. So, take off to the hills for wild boar hunting. The wild boar are dangerous, have sharp tusks, and weigh up to 600 pounds. They forage in the farmers

Go to Czechs Moravia RegionBy Allan Kissam

20

fields or throughout the surrounding government managed forests. Watch the Prague police chase down a rampaging boar in the city streets here. In Medieval times, dogs and long pikes were used in hunting of wild boar. Fitted on the pike was a cross bar to prevent the impaled animal from charging up the pike to gore the hunter. Male boars with

tusks can knock a person down and tear with the tusks. Even today, the hunter has to be careful not to approach a wounded animal or use light calibers in hunting. Common sense is to employ an experienced guide. Beyond clothing for the hunt, arrangements by Shooting Enterprise Ltd can book the lodge, provide proper caliber weapons, and get the meat home for an unusual backyard BBQ with friends. Official government information (pdf

document) about the game preserves are available here. Arrangements for the trip home should include more down time in Prague. The historic city center is a World Heritage Site (UNESCO) and the city is on the same global-city scale of Berlin, Copenhagen, or Dallas. Prague is documented to over one thousand years, so a few days to enjoy the museums and world-class culture is a worthy investment for ending the trip in fashion. Have a great trip!

Go to Czechs Moravia Region

21

Layers of Greece:

Ancient Stagira to Alexandros Palace Hotel

By Marc dEntremont

View of Ammouliani Island from the Alexandros Palace Hotel.

Hopping off his bicycle, Thomas Sidinalsa bounded into the cool lobby of the Alexandros Palace Hotel and Spa on a hot July day in Ouranoupolis. He apologized that his daily ride kept me waiting. We didnt have an appointment; I was just checking in. Would I like to see the excavations of the Monastery of Zygou? Thus began a whirlwind two days of exploring the western Halkidiki coast and northern Athos with the energetic heirs of this village by the sea.

Thomas and his brother John are both into music and people. Theyre hands-on managers of the 250-room Alexandros Palace Hotel resort complex started by their parents in the 1990s. They grew up in the hotel as it expanded from a modest seaside hotel into a veritable village on the 90-acre hillside location just outside the center of Ouranoupolis, gateway to sacred Mount Athos. Thomas and John attended the prestigious and rigorous Swiss hotel school, the Glion Institute.

Thomas and John greeted repeat guests by first name. Casually dressed, theyre found at the hotels private beach facilities, cycling the extensive grounds paying attention to gardening details, consulting with the chefs, inspecting the impressive Panalee Spa and the new specialty shop Athos wines, skin care products and local foods discussing concerns on their cell phones but rarely are they ensconced in an office. The details are numerous since Alexandros Palace Hotel was designed to be a self-contained resort, almost a village, complete with a small market catering to guests staying in rooms with kitchens. But first Thomas wanted me to visit an ancient ruin.

The evidence of Greeces long and turbulent civilization lay scattered throughout the country. It was as easy to stumble across remnants of an ancient site in the middle of a farm field as it was to visit the impressive ruins of the 10th century Monastery of Zygos, a short 10-minute drive from the hotel. Though in ruins for centuries, well preserved sections of the on-going excavation reveal intricate Byzantine floor mosaics, elaborate remains of wall frescos and the more mundane sunken pottery jars that held food supplies for the monks. Often in Greece, the past exists next to the present. The Monastery site borders the historic guardhouse and entrance to the autonomous Monastic State of Agion Oros Mt. Athos.

At the tip of Athos, the western most peninsula of the Halkidiki region of Macedonia, 6,700-foot Mt. Athos towers above all. Legendary Greek Orthodox monasteries have maintained its fame for a millennium despite repeated attempts at conquest and social change. The residents of Athos are 18(+)-year-old monks or male workers. No women can enter the autonomous Monastic State. Male visitors over the age of 18 are restricted to a few hundred at any one time with special permit. Applications should be made weeks in advance. Tourists can circle the peninsula by boat and catch glimpses of the massive monastery complexes, many incongruously clinging to cliffs, but not land without an entry certificate.

Ouranoupolis is one of many towns built in the 1920s as a result of the traumatic exchange of Greek Orthodox and Islamic populations that took place after the fall of the Ottoman Empire. Once the site of an ancient town, today it attracts tourists seeking Greek sun, sea and pleasant evening dinners poolside at its resorts. Dinner at the Alexandros Palace Hotels taverna restaurant highlighted the superb fish and seafood caught fresh daily off these shores.

Chef George Kosmidis started dinner with light zucchini croquettes, tzatziki sauce and a classic Greek salad of ripe tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, onions and feta. Tender grilled, lightly charred octopus followed. A simple sauce of lemon, olive oil and parsley napped the crisp skin of grilled sea bream that covered moist white fish. Shrimp were bathed in a sauce of cream, garlic, white wine and stock. The shrimp had steamed in the sauce, infusing it with their deep flavor.

A wine from Mt. Athos complimented the fish and seafood (Holy Monastery of St. Paul), MONOXILITIKO, a white wine blend of 90% sauvignon blanc with local varieties. It had a nose of honey and sage followed by summer floral notes with a surprisingly dry finish. Thomas explained that the bottle must be allowed to breathe to soften the wine.

Dinner was followed by music at the Theatre Bar terrific views of the bay and Ammouliani Island. In the evening, the spacious Theater Bar with its lower level dance floor and stage was the town square of this village resort of Alexandros Palace. As the hours passed, many friends of Thomas and John as well as guests joined the eclectic conversation.

After a breakfast from the extensive buffet, including many salad selections, it was off for more exploration in the 4-wheel drive car the Halkidiki Hotel Association provided. It made off-road discovery possible. Wandering and

sometimes stumbling across obscure excavations was as inspiring for a first time visitor as observing the excitement and pride it generated in Thomas, a younger generation native Greek.

At ancient Stagira on Halkidikis western shore several hours were spent walking in the footsteps of Aristotle. Stagira was his birthplace and today overlooks the fishing port of Olympiada. The ancient city was built across two hills on the peninsula of Liotopi. King Philip II of Macadon destroyed Stagira during a war in 348 B.C.E. while Aristotle was teaching in Athens. According to the most accepted theory, within a year Aristotle was tutor to the future Alexander the Great and the King was rebuilding Stagira.

Stagira seems to have declined during the early Roman era and was abandoned by the start of the 1st century A.D. The extensive excavations that cover both hills are impressive and a good hike. It was possible to wander unimpeded over

Alexandros Palace Hotel, view from main pool.

Floor mosaics: Monastery of Zygos

Ancient Stagira, birthplace of Aristotle.

23

Layers of Greece:

Ancient Stagira to Alexandros Palace Hotel

By Marc dEntremont

View of Ammouliani Island from the Alexandros Palace Hotel.

Hopping off his bicycle, Thomas Sidinalsa bounded into the cool lobby of the Alexandros Palace Hotel and Spa on a hot July day in Ouranoupolis. He apologized that his daily ride kept me waiting. We didnt have an appointment; I was just checking in. Would I like to see the excavations of the Monastery of Zygou? Thus began a whirlwind two days of exploring the western Halkidiki coast and northern Athos with the energetic heirs of this village by the sea.

Thomas and his brother John are both into music and people. Theyre hands-on managers of the 250-room Alexandros Palace Hotel resort complex started by their parents in the 1990s. They grew up in the hotel as it expanded from a modest seaside hotel into a veritable village on the 90-acre hillside location just outside the center of Ouranoupolis, gateway to sacred Mount Athos. Thomas and John attended the prestigious and rigorous Swiss hotel school, the Glion Institute.

Thomas and John greeted repeat guests by first name. Casually dressed, theyre found at the hotels private beach facilities, cycling the extensive grounds paying attention to gardening details, consulting with the chefs, inspecting the impressive Panalee Spa and the new specialty shop Athos wines, skin care products and local foods discussing concerns on their cell phones but rarely are they ensconced in an office. The details are numerous since Alexandros Palace Hotel was designed to be a self-contained resort, almost a village, complete with a small market catering to guests staying in rooms with kitchens. But first Thomas wanted me to visit an ancient ruin.

The evidence of Greeces long and turbulent civilization lay scattered throughout the country. It was as easy to stumble across remnants of an ancient site in the middle of a farm field as it was to visit the impressive ruins of the 10th century Monastery of Zygos, a short 10-minute drive from the hotel. Though in ruins for centuries, well preserved sections of the on-going excavation reveal intricate Byzantine floor mosaics, elaborate remains of wall frescos and the more mundane sunken pottery jars that held food supplies for the monks. Often in Greece, the past exists next to the present. The Monastery site borders the historic guardhouse and entrance to the autonomous Monastic State of Agion Oros Mt. Athos.

At the tip of Athos, the western most peninsula of the Halkidiki region of Macedonia, 6,700-foot Mt. Athos towers above all. Legendary Greek Orthodox monasteries have maintained its fame for a millennium despite repeated attempts at conquest and social change. The residents of Athos are 18(+)-year-old monks or male workers. No women can enter the autonomous Monastic State. Male visitors over the age of 18 are restricted to a few hundred at any one time with special permit. Applications should be made weeks in advance. Tourists can circle the peninsula by boat and catch glimpses of the massive monastery complexes, many incongruously clinging to cliffs, but not land without an entry certificate.

Ouranoupolis is one of many towns built in the 1920s as a result of the traumatic exchange of Greek Orthodox and Islamic populations that took place after the fall of the Ottoman Empire. Once the site of an ancient town, today it attracts tourists seeking Greek sun, sea and pleasant evening dinners poolside at its resorts. Dinner at the Alexandros Palace Hotels taverna restaurant highlighted the superb fish and seafood caught fresh daily off these shores.

Chef George Kosmidis started dinner with light zucchini croquettes, tzatziki sauce and a classic Greek salad of ripe tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, onions and feta. Tender grilled, lightly charred octopus followed. A simple sauce of lemon, olive oil and parsley napped the crisp skin of grilled sea bream that covered moist white fish. Shrimp were bathed in a sauce of cream, garlic, white wine and stock. The shrimp had steamed in the sauce, infusing it with their deep flavor.

A wine from Mt. Athos complimented the fish and seafood (Holy Monastery of St. Paul), MONOXILITIKO, a white wine blend of 90% sauvignon blanc with local varieties. It had a nose of honey and sage followed by summer floral notes with a surprisingly dry finish. Thomas explained that the bottle must be allowed to breathe to soften the wine.

Dinner was followed by music at the Theatre Bar terrific views of the bay and Ammouliani Island. In the evening, the spacious Theater Bar with its lower level dance floor and stage was the town square of this village resort of Alexandros Palace. As the hours passed, many friends of Thomas and John as well as guests joined the eclectic conversation.

After a breakfast from the extensive buffet, including many salad selections, it was off for more exploration in the 4-wheel drive car the Halkidiki Hotel Association provided. It made off-road discovery possible. Wandering and

sometimes stumbling across obscure excavations was as inspiring for a first time visitor as observing the excitement and pride it generated in Thomas, a younger generation native Greek.

At ancient Stagira on Halkidikis western shore several hours were spent walking in the footsteps of Aristotle. Stagira was his birthplace and today overlooks the fishing port of Olympiada. The ancient city was built across two hills on the peninsula of Liotopi. King Philip II of Macadon destroyed Stagira during a war in 348 B.C.E. while Aristotle was teaching in Athens. According to the most accepted theory, within a year Aristotle was tutor to the future Alexander the Great and the King was rebuilding Stagira.

Stagira seems to have declined during the early Roman era and was abandoned by the start of the 1st century A.D. The extensive excavations that cover both hills are impressive and a good hike. It was possible to wander unimpeded over

Alexandros Palace Hotel, view from main pool.

Floor mosaics: Monastery of Zygos

Ancient Stagira, birthplace of Aristotle.

23

most of the ruins. With panoramic views of the Gulf of Lerissos and backed by lush green tree covered hills, Stagira must have been a beautiful and vibrant city.

Historys millenniums created the layers of Greece that lure millions of tourists each year. Discovering Greece through personal adventures and conversations with Thomas and John Sidinalsa added the perspective of youth awe for the past, eyes on the moment, dreams for the future. Living in the moment within the comfort of the Alexandros Palace Hotel, a sacred mountain in view and with Aristotles spirit nearby created serenity.

Ouranoupolis is an easy 2 3 hour drive

(busier on weekends) on modern roads from Thessaloniki International Airport 75 miles.

Alexandros Palace HotelOuranoupolis, 63075Halkidiki, Greece. (Athos)Tel + 30 23770 31402Fax: +30 23770 31100info@alexandroshotel-halkidiki.com2014 season runs April through mid-October

Disclosure: The author was a guest of the Alexandros Palace Hotel and the Halkidiki Tourism Organization.

Photo credits: Marc dEntremont.

Mt. Athos from the Alexandros Palace Hotel beach.

Freshly caught squid.

Shrimp in Cream, Taverna at Alexandros Palace Hotel.

Cleaning fish at the guardhouse to Mt. Athos.

24

Join an exclusive global travel club with standards as high as your own.As a Passepartout Homes guest we want you to feel reassured about every aspect of your trip - from the moment you book until the moment you arrive home.

What you want is a place where you can kick off your shoes and be yourself. Somewhere comfortably luxurious where you can spend unforgettable moments with family and friends.

As a member of Passepartout Homes private travel club, you can choose from a selection of unique, luxurious private homes owned by people like you. Our portfolio includes chic city apartments, relaxing beach resorts, stylish ski chalets and luxury farmhouses in some of the worlds most sought-after locations.

Our Diamond and Concierge services make you feel cared about and special. Tell us what you need and well do it.

Join our private network

As a Passepartout Guest you will have:

n Immediate access to our exclusive portfolio of luxurious properties from all over the world.

n A range of tailor made extras from our Concierge and Diamond services.

n Personal help and guidance from our team.

New members are usually referred by existing club members, but for Luxe Beat Magazine readers, we simply ask that you use our special membership code: LUXE14.

www.passepartout-homes.com

T +44 (0)20 7513 2876 E info@passepartout-homes.com Quote: LUXE14

most of the ruins. With panoramic views of the Gulf of Lerissos and backed by lush green tree covered hills, Stagira must have been a beautiful and vibrant city.

Historys millenniums created the layers of Greece that lure millions of tourists each year. Discovering Greece through personal adventures and conversations with Thomas and John Sidinalsa added the perspective of youth awe for the past, eyes on the moment, dreams for the future. Living in the moment within the comfort of the Alexandros Palace Hotel, a sacred mountain in view and with Aristotles spirit nearby created serenity.

Ouranoupolis is an easy 2 3 hour drive

(busier on weekends) on modern roads from Thessaloniki International Airport 75 miles.

Alexandros Palace HotelOuranoupolis, 63075Halkidiki, Greece. (Athos)Tel + 30 23770 31402Fax: +30 23770 31100info@alexandroshotel-halkidiki.com2014 season runs April through mid-October

Disclosure: The author was a guest of the Alexandros Palace Hotel and the Halkidiki Tourism Organization.

Photo credits: Marc dEntremont.

Mt. Athos from the Alexandros Palace Hotel beach.

Freshly caught squid.

Shrimp in Cream, Taverna at Alexandros Palace Hotel.

Cleaning fish at the guardhouse to Mt. Athos.

24

Join an exclusive global travel club with standards as high as your own.As a Passepartout Homes guest we want you to feel reassured about every aspect of your trip - from the moment you book until the moment you arrive home.

What you want is a place where you can kick off your shoes and be yourself. Somewhere comfortably luxurious where you can spend unforgettable moments with family and friends.

As a member of Passepartout Homes private travel club, you can choose from a selection of unique, luxurious private homes owned by people like you. Our portfolio includes chic city apartments, relaxing beach resorts, stylish ski chalets and luxury farmhouses in some of the worlds most sought-after locations.

Our Diamond and Concierge services make you feel cared about and special. Tell us what you need and well do it.

Join our private network

As a Passepartout Guest you will have:

n Immediate access to our exclusive portfolio of luxurious properties from all over the world.

n A range of tailor made extras from our Concierge and Diamond services.

n Personal help and guidance from our team.

New members are usually referred by existing club members, but for Luxe Beat Magazine readers, we simply ask that you use our special membership code: LUXE14.

www.passepartout-homes.com

T +44 (0)20 7513 2876 E info@passepartout-homes.com Quote: LUXE14

Luxury & ELEgancEwith ocean views from every window.

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Come and stay...Photos by Darren Setlow

Surround yourself with sweeping panoramic views of Maines Atlantic Coastline and bask in contemporary

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Cuckolds is a unique experience, receiving each guest in contemporary luxury through layers of bespoke

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Each suite has a separate sitting and sleeping chamber with a king sized bed and a luxury private bath.

Our living quarters are outfitted with the latest modern technology including wifi, LED televisions, and USB ports.

Wake up to beautiful breakfasts served by our lighthouse keepers in the cozy kitchen with fireplace and ocean vistas.

Inn_at_Cuckolds_LuxeBeat.indd 1 4/15/14 9:24 AM

d i s c o v e r c h a r l e v o i x s h i d d e n g e m

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Luxury & ELEgancEwith ocean views from every window.

Reservations Toll Free: 855.212.5252www.innatcuckoldslighthouse.com

Come and stay...Photos by Darren Setlow

Surround yourself with sweeping panoramic views of Maines Atlantic Coastline and bask in contemporary

luxury and design. The custom millwork, beautiful moldings, coffered ceilings and marble bathrooms are

the ultimate in craftsmanship. The views from every window are dramatic, 360 degree ocean views. The

Cuckolds is a unique experience, receiving each guest in contemporary luxury through layers of bespoke

craftsmanship and design. All honoring the sense of place and Cuckolds history.

Each suite has a separate sitting and sleeping chamber with a king sized bed and a luxury private bath.

Our living quarters are outfitted with the latest modern technology including wifi, LED televisions, and USB ports.

Wake up to beautiful breakfasts served by our lighthouse keepers in the cozy kitchen with fireplace and ocean vistas.

Inn_at_Cuckolds_LuxeBeat.indd 1 4/15/14 9:24 AM

d i s c o v e r c h a r l e v o i x s h i d d e n g e m

The castle on the cliff. Guardian of the mighty St. Lawrence River. Perched majestically between the ever-changing St. Lawrence River and the rolling terrain

of Quebecs unrivalled Charlevoix region, the Manoir has its special place in history.

And in memory. Tales of elegant hospitality, spectacular golf, exquisite cuisine,

non-stop activities all year round ... or total relaxation. Come experience it for yourself!

reservations1 800 441 1414fairmont.com/richelieu

FA I R M O N T L E M A N O I R R I C H E L I E U | H T E L ~ C A S I N O ~ S PA ~ G O L F

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A Racing Dream Realized At The Indy 500By Leah Walker

Each guest room has an amazing view of the Sound from its room wide floor-to-ceiling picture window.

30

Since I was a little girl, Ive been captivated by cars. Seemingly born with my hands at ten and two, I started driving on dirt roads when I was seven-years old. My first car came at the age of thirteena classic, mint condition 66 Mustang. Thats also the age I discovered my lead foot. A simple turn of the key and the rumble of the 289 V-8 engine left me feeling euphoric. During the late 80s there was no Danica Patrick for inspiration, thus my dream of becoming a professional race car driver faded, while more practical occupations took its