grooming - hair - dressing the face

8/20/2019 Grooming - Hair - Dressing the Face

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18th Century Material Culture

Dressing the Face



English Razors



Blade Edge

Characteristics

18th Century RazorsShort Tail

Large Pivot Pin

Straight Blade Even with Tang

Straight Scales

Slight Shoulder to Tang

Tang

Large Base Pin

Spine

“Dip at Toe”

Curve of Blade



English Razor Makers Working in She!eld in 1774

Sketchley’s She!eld Directory 1774(Public Domain)



English Cutlers Working in She!eld in 1781

Bailey’s Directory 1781(Public Domain)



English Razor Manufacturers in She!eld in 1787

“A DIRECTORY of She!eld” Compile & Printed by Gales & Martin 1787(Public Domain)



English Razor Strap Manufacturers in She!eld in 1787




A. Razor by George Smith & Sons, She!eld, 1770-1785. Trademark, cross and "Smith." Black Horn Handle 1775

B. Razor by John Shepherd, She!eld, 1770-1795. Trademark, Crown and "Wolf." Inscription, "Acier fondu." Bone Handle 1780

C. Razor by Staniforth, Parkin & Co., She!eld, 1785-1800. Trademark, "Parkin." Inscription, "Acier fondu." Handle, mottled horn." 1790

(From "Old She!eld Razors” by Lummus, Henry T.;" In "Antiques", Vol. 2. December, 1922. p. 262.)



Trade Card “Bailey & Youle. Cutlers from She!eld”

Mid 18th Century(Public Domain)



Henry BirksShe!eld

There is No Mention of Henry Birks of She!eld in “Sketchley’s She!eldDirectory” of 1774, “Bailey’s Northern Directory” of 1781, or “Gales & MartinShe!eld Directory” 1787

English Razor from She!eld

By Henry Birks, Listed as a Cutler From 1720 - 1760(historyrazors.wordpress.com)

http://historyrazors.wordpress.com/



English Razors from She!eld






by Henry Birks c. 1720 - 1760(historyrazors.wordpress.com)




William Birks / William Birks and SonNorfolk Street, She!eld

“Sketchley’s She!eld Directory” 1774

“Bailey’s Northern Directory” 1781

There is No Mention of William Birks or William Birks and Son in “Gales & Martin She!eld Directory” 1787



English Trade Card for William Birks, Razor Maker, She!eld

c.1750(The British Museum)



English Trade Card for William Birks, Razor Maker, She!eld




English Trade Card for John Brailsford, Cutler, Leicester Fields




English Trade Card for John Brailsford, Cutler, Leicester Fields

c.1750(Spitalfieldlife.com)



Luke CadmanFargate & Surrey Street, She!eld


There is No Listing of Luke Cadman in “Bailey’s Northern Directory” 1781

“Gales & Martin She!eld Directory” 1787

Began His Profession as a Cutler c. 1748




by Luke Cadman c. 1780(Private Collection)



English Trade Card for John Cargill, Instrument Maker, London

1739(Wellcome Library)



English Trade Card for John Chasson, Razor & Surgical Instrument Maker, London

Mid 18th Century(Wellcome Library)



English Trade Card for Benjamin Dawson, Razor Maker, London

Late 18th Century(Lewis Walpole Library)



(Research by and from: historyrazors.wordpress.com)

George Elliot of London(Not Listed in Bailey’s Directory of 1781)




English Straight Razor Marked “LONDON”

by George Elliot 18th Century - Exact Date Unknown(historyrazors.wordpress.com)




(Razor from historyrazors.wordpress.com)

John Fox / Fox and Norris Westbar, She!eld



John Fox Used the *P Mark from 1737 - 1793. Samuel Norris Inherited the *P Mark of John Fox After 1793




English Razor from She!eld Marked *P

by John Fox on Westbar c. 1750 - 1770(historyrazors.wordpress.com)





by Samuel Norris c. 1767 - 1793 (After 1793 He Used the *P Inherited from John Fox)(historyrazors.wordpress.com)





by Samuel Norris c. 1767 - 1793 (After 1793 He Used the *P Inherited from John Fox)(Morristown National Historic Park)



William GreavesBurgess - street, She!eld



by William Greaves on Burgess Street c. 1785 - 1816(Private Collection)



Johnathan HallChina - square, She!eld


English Razor From She!eld Marked “GRATIAN”by Jonathan Hall on China - Square c. 1787

(Private Collection)



English Razor From She!eld Marked “GRATIAN”by Jonathan Hall on China - Square c. 1787




Kippax and KnowelShe!eld


English Straight Blade Razor Marked “KIPPAX”

Likely by Kippax and Krowel c. 1781 - 1786(Private Collection)



English Straight Blade Razor Marked “KIPPAX”

Likely by Kippax and Krowel c. 1781 - 1786(Private Collection)



( Razor from historyrazors.wordpress.com)

John LeadbeaterCopper Street, She!eld




h dl




(Razor from historyrazors.wordpress.com and Acier Fondu)

John LindleySpring - street, She!eld



For Some Reason John Lindley is Not Listed in Bailey’s Directory of 1781





by John or William Lindley c. 1774 - 1790(Private Collection)



English Razor from She!eld Owned by George Washington from She!eld

Labeled by Mount Vernon as by George Wostenholm, But Marks Appear Like Those of John or William Lindley(Mount Vernon)



English Razor from She!eld Owned by George Washington from She!eld

Labeled by Mount Vernon as by George Wostenholm, But Marks Appear Like Those of John or William Lindley(Mount Vernon)

Willi Li dl



(Razor Courtesy historyrazors.wordpress.com and Acier Fondu)

William LindleyOn Snighill / Spring Street, She!eld



William Lindley Does Not Appear in “Gales and Martin She!eld Directory” 1787





by William (or John?) Lindley c. 1770s - Mid 1780s(historyrazors.wordpress.com)




English Trade Card for Henry Looker, Razor Maker, London

c. 1790(The British Museum)



English Trade Card for Palmer, Razor Maker & Cutler

1794(The British Museum)



English Trade Card for Henry Patten, London

c.1750(Victoria & Albert Museum)

J th Pit hf d



Jonathan PitchfordStumperl y, She!eld

“Gales & Martin Directory” 1787

English Razor from She!eld Marked “P Ford”

Likely by Jonathan Pitchford on Stumperly c. 1787(Private Collection)



Straight Blade Razor Marked “P”

Possibly by Jonathan Pitchford on Stumperly c. 1787(Private Collection)

William Platt



William PlattCowms, She!eld



Appears to be Marked for William Platt, But Uncertain c. 1787(Private Collection)

George Revil / Revill and sons / Revel



George Revil / Revill and sons / RevelNew Street, She!eld







by George Revil c. 1760 - 1790(historyrazors.wordpress.com)

Ann Rowland




(Razor from: historyrazors.wordpress.com)

Ann Rowland Westbargreen, She!eld


Ann Rowland Does Not Appear in Either “Bailey’s Northern Directory” of 1781 or “Gales & Martin She!eld Directory” of 1787




English Straight Razors Marked with “R SPAIN”by Ann Rowland Pre 1787, Likely 1774

(historyrazors.wordpress.com)




English Straight Razor Marked with “R SPAIN” and “ROBINSON”by Ann Rowland Pre 1787, Likely 1774


Elizabeth Rowland / Widow Rowland




Elizabeth Rowland / Widow RowlandChurchlane & Back-Lane, She!eld



Elizabeth Rowland Does Not Appear in “Bailey’s Northern Directory” of 1781



English Straight Razor Marked with a Crescent Moon and “R”by Widow Rowland c. 1787 (Possibly Mid 1780s and Later)


John Sheppard / Shepherd







John Sheppard / ShepherdRedcroft & Holles Croft, She!eld



English Razors Marked with a Crown and “WOLF”by John Sheppard / Shepherd c. 1774 - 1790


Georgius Smith




Georgius Smith is Listed in “Sketchley’s She!eld Directory” of 1774 on ScotlandHe and His Mark are Listed Separately from George Smith and Sons on Peacroft

He Does Not Appear in Either “Bailey’s Directory” of 1781 or “Gales and Martin Directory” of 1787


Georgius SmithScotland, She!eld

George Smith / George Smith & Sons / Thomas Smith



1749: George Smith Becomes Master Cutler1770 – 1785: George Smith Operates as “George Smith & Sons“ Until His Death in 17851785: Thomas Smith, Son of George Smith, Inherits His Father’s Mark

“Bailey’s Directory, She!eld” 1781


“Gales & Martin She!

eld Directory” 1787

George Smith / George Smith & Sons / Thomas SmithPeacroft, She!eld



English Straight Razorby George Smith or George Smith & Sons on Peacroft (Possible Georgeius Smith with Cross???) c. 1770s





English Straight Razorby George Smith or George Smith & Sons on Peacroft c. 1770s






(G.S. Theberge Collection)



English Trade Card for William Spence, Razor Maker, Londonc.1750

(Victoria & Albert Museum)



English Trade Card for William Spence, Razor Maker, Londonc.1750




English Razor from She!eldMarked for William Warburton on the Top of the Blade c. 1748 - 1774

(Acier Fondu)



English Razor from She!eldMarked for William Warburton on the Top of the Blade c. 1748 - 1774

(Acier Fondu)

Thomas Warburton



Son of William Warburton, Freed from Apprenticeship in 1775

Thomas Warburton is Not Listed in “Bailey’s Directory, She!eld” 1781


“Gales & Martin She!

eld Directory” 1787

Coal Pit Lane & Burgess Street, She!eld

Btittain, Wilkinson & Brownell




Arundel Street, She!eld

English Razor from She!eld Marked “FRANCE”by Btittain, Wilkinson & Brownell c. 1787 - 1795

(Acier Fondu)



English Razor Blades Excavated at a British Camp During the American War for IndependenceDyckman Farm, Washington Heights, Manhattan c. 1776

(New York Historical Society)



English, But Possibly French, Straight Blade Razor Excavated from Fort Michilimackinac, Abandoned 1781Pre - 1781

(Fort Michilimackinac)



English Razor Likely from She!eldUnknown Maker Mid 18th Century

(Acier Fondu)



English Shagreen & Silver Etui Featuring a Razor, Likely from She!eldUnknown Maker Mid 18th Century

(Acier Fondu)




(Acier Fondu)



Shaving Set with Brush, Razor & Soap Dish Used by Solomon MoonUnidentified Maker 18th Century

(Fort Ticonderoga)



Razor18th Century




English Razor from She!eldUnidentified Maker c. 1770 - 1790

(Colonial Williamsburg)



English Razor from She!eldUnidentified Maker Late 18th Century

(Acier Fondu)



Razor with Pewter Washer and Brass Pin Recovered from Grand Portage18th Century

(Grand Portage)



English Bone Handled Razor in a Leather Case Recovered from the 1785 Wreck of the General Carleton of Whitbyc. 1785

(From: “The General Carleton Shipwreck 1785” Wrak Statku - Polish Maritime Museum)



English Bone Handled Razors Recovered from the 1785 Wreck of the General Carleton of Whitbyc. 1785




English Bone Razor Scales Recovered from the 1785 Wreck of the General Carleton of Whitbyc. 1785




English Razor Blade Recovered from the 1785 Wreck of the General Carleton of Whitbyc. 1785




Straight Blade Razor Marked “Cast Steel”Likely 1800




French Razors



“ Nouveau Traité des Instruments de Chirurgie les plus utiles, et de Plusieurs Nouvelles Machines propres pour les Maladies des os”René-Jacques Croissant de Garengeot 1727

(Public Domain)



“Perruquier Barbier” The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert 1751

(University of Michigan)



French Razor “ La pogonotomie ou l'art d'apprendre à se raser soi-même”

Jran Jacques Perret 1769(Historie de la Sante’)



Detail: French Razor “L'ART du COUTELIER EXPERT EN INSTRUMENTS DE CHIRUGIE”

by Auguste-Denis Fougeroux de Bondaroy, Delatour 1772(Public Domain)



French Draft Trade Card of François Fajot, Cutler and Barber, Paris18th Century

(The British Museum)



French Draft Trade Card of François Fajot, Cutler and Barber, Paris18th Century




French Razor with Ivory Scales Owned by George Washington Marked “LANGLOIS/[C * D]UROY”c. 1790

(Mount Vernon)



French Razor from ParisLate 18th Century

(Acier Fondu)



Spanish Razors



English Steel & Horn Razor with Pasteboard Case Owned by Myles StandishLikely Produced in Toledo Spain and Carried to the New World on the Mayflower Dated 1612

(Pilgrim Hall Museum)



Dutch Razors



Dutch Turtle Shell & Silver Gentleman’s Toilet Boxc. 1700 - 1730

(Victoria & Albert)




(Victoria & Albert)



German Razors



Continental, Probably South German, Silver Mounted Shagreen Gentleman’s Toilet Box18th Century

(Christie’s)



Continental, Probably South German, Silver Mounted Shagreen Gentleman’s Toilet Box18th Century(Christie’s)



UnidentifiedRazors



RazorUnknown Maker Early - Mid 18th Century

(Acier Fondu)



“European” RazorUnidentified Maker Likely Mid 18th Century




Razor18th Century




(Colonial Williamsburg Foundation)

CharacteristicsP t 8th C t R



Post 18th Century Razors

“

Chinese” Razors



Not 18th Century



RazorBoxes



Straight Razor Marked “ Clark & Hall Cast Steel “Razor Case

(Guilford Courthouse National Military Park)



Razor Box with Painted Lid & Silk Lining18th Century

(“Big Daddy” West Collection)



Wood Razor Box Recovered from the 1785 Wreck of the General Carleton of Whitbyc. 1785




Razor Box18th Century




Razor Boxes18th Century




Traveling Shaving Kit Owned by George Washingtonc. 1780 - 1800

(Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association)



Shaving Case from General Nathaniel Green toPeter Francisco New Store, Buckingham County Virginia July 4, 1776




Shaving Kit Owned by George WashingtonPossibly Purchased in Philadelphia in 1775

(Mount Vernon Association)



Spanish Shaving Kit18th Century

(Christie’s Auction House)



Strops & Stones



Honing Stone Given to General George Washington by His Nephew Major George Lewisc. 1775




Shaving Brushes



Shaving Brushes in Iron Sleeves (Handles Missing) Recovered from the 1785 Wreck of the General Carleton of Whitbyc. 1785




English Silver Shaving Brush Owned by the First Earl of Lichfield1784

(National Trust -Shugborough Estate, Sta # ordshire)



Shaving Brushc. 1770 - 1810(Winterthur)



Trade CardJohn Brailsford, Cutler

(Spitalfieldlife.com)



Shaving Set with Brush, Razor & Soap Dish Used by Solomon Moon18th Century

(Fort Ticonderoga)



“TRAGEDY BURLESQUE or the BARBER turned ACTOR”by Bowles & Carver c. 1785




Shaving Mirrors



Self PortraitLt. Gabriel Bay March 1775

(National Maritime Museum)



English Japanned Shaving Mirror stamped “EP”Queen Anne Period

(Brunk Auction House)



Mahogany Shaving MirrorMid 18th Century

(Skinner Auction House)



Walnut Veneer Shaving MirrorMid 18th Century

(Estate of Walter Bott Loucks, Jr.)



English Mahogany Shaving Mirrorc. 1720 - 1760

(Victoria & Albert)



Shaving Box with Fold Out Mirror18th Century




A Monkey Shaving in a Mirrorby Thomas Bewick c. 1780 - 1790




English Mahogany Shaving Mirrorc. 1760 - 1780

(Victoria & Albert)



English Dressing or Shaving Stand on a DressingTablec. 1700 - 1730

(Metropolitan Museum of Art)



English Shaving Table Drawingby Thomas Chippendale c. 1753 - 1754




Barber Bowls



English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl from Birminghamc. 1710 - 1720




English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl1716

(Christie’s)



English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber BowlEarly 18th Century

(Christie’s)




(Christie’s)




(Winterthur)




(Historic Deerfield)



English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber BowlLate 17th to Early 18th Century




English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl from BristolLate 17th to Early 18th Century




English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl1706

(Chipstone)




(Antique Associates of West Townsend)



English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl18th Century(Christie’s)



English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl Depicting a BlacksmithMid 18th Century

(Van Nie Antiquairs)



English Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowlc. 1750

(Bostonian Society)



Dutch Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl18th Century

(Victoria & Albert)




(Victoria & Albert)




(Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco)



Dutch Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber BowlEarly 18th Century(Private Collection)



Dutch Tin Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowlc. 1660 - 1680

(Victoria & Albert)




(Guest & Gray)



Dutch Lead Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl from Yorkshire or Sta # ordshirec. 1770

(John Howard)



American Lead Glazed Earthenware Barber Bowl from Pennsylvania"Shave me beautiful and fine that I will please the beloved one of mine." 1769




European Pewter Barber Bowlc. 1750




English Pewter Barber Bowlby James Hitchman c. 1675 - 1700

(Victoria & Albert)



English Silver Barber Bowlc. 1682 - 1683

(Victoria & Albert)



French Silver Basin with Shaving AttachmentBasin by Jean Fauch c. 1745 - 1746, Attachment by Joseph-Pierre-Jacques Dugua c. 1760 - 1761




French She!eld Plate Barber BowlLate 18th Century

(Victoria & Albert)



Shaving Jugs



English Silver Shaving Jugc. 1682 - 1683

(Victoria & Albert)



English Silvered Brass Shaving Jugc. 1730 - 1740




Irish Silver Shaving Jugby John Williamson of Dublin 1736




Soap Boxes



English Silver Soap Box for Shavingc. 1682 - 1683

(Victoria & Albert)



French Silver Soap & Sponge Boxesby C. Louis Gérard 1739




English Silvered Brass Soap Boxc. 1750

(Victoria & Albert)



Shaving Sets



French Silver Shaving Setby Henri - Louise Gaigneur c. 1750

(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)



Cut Throats



Alleged Murder of Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex, in the Tower; plan of Capel's cell in the Tower, with threemen seizing Capel on the left, a razor blade in the centre, and Capel's corpse at the top right. 1683




“Ryland Cutting his throat on Sight of the O!cers of Justice”1783

(Museum of London)



“The true and particular account of A MURDER Committed last Friday night”1791

(Museum of London)



French

Facial Hair



Illustration to “Estevanille Gonzalez” & Engraved for 'Oeuvres choisies de Lesage' (Paris & Amsterdam, 1783)by Robert De Launay after Clément Pierre Marillier 1783




Illustration to “Estevanille Gonzalez” & Engraved for 'Oeuvres choisies de Lesage' (Paris & Amsterdam, 1783)by Robert De Launay after Clément Pierre Marillier 1783


Take Notice!



For More on Shaving, Check Out the Slideshow on Barbers & Barbershops!

Acknowledgements



I am indebted to Neal Hurst and Justin Clement for providing me with digitalcopies of Sketchley’s She!eld Directory of 1774, Bailey’s Directory of 1781 and

“A DIRECTORY of She!

eld” Compile & Printed by Gales & Martin 1787.

I would also like to acknowledge and credit the great blog at

historyrazors.wordpress.com and Acier Fondu for filling in much neededgaps in the razor section. For more information on period razors, please visitthese sites.

Acknowledgements




The material contained within these slideshows is presented for educational purposes only. The18th Century Material Culture Resource Center does not personally own any of the itemsdepicted herein and is indebted to the countless museums, libraries, and private collectors who willingly share their collections with the public through the internet. Every attempt has beenmade to credit these organizations and individuals for their contributions as best as possible.

If there is a question you have regarding a particular item featured within a presentation, pleasecontact the 18th Century Material Culture Resource Center and we will try to answer yourinquiry as best as possible. If for any reason you feel there is any item that should not bepresented here, or if there is an error in any listing, or if you know the source for any item whose

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