grooming, deportment & power dressing ver2.1

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GROOMING, DEPORTMENT & POWER DRESSING VER 2.1 Presented by, Mr. Sudhir Udayakanth President & CEO, edge academy1

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Page 1: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

GROOMING, DEPORTMENT & POWER DRESSING –VER 2.1

Presented by,

Mr. Sudhir Udayakanth

President & CEO, edge academy™

1

Page 2: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

“A SHORT HISTORY”

Louis XIV's gardener at Versailles was faced with a serious problem: he could not stop members of

the nobility from trampling about in the delicate areas of the King's garden.

He finally attempted to dissuade their unwanted behaviour by posting signs called “etiquets”

which warned them to "Keep off the Grass".

When this course of action failed, the King himself had to issue an official decree that no one

could go beyond the bounds of the signs. Later, the name "etiquette" was given to a ticket for court

functions that included rules regarding where to stand and what to do.

The word 'etiquette' has evolved, but in many ways it still means "Keep off the Grass". Remaining

within the flexible boundaries of civil behaviour allows relationships and us to grow like flowers

in Louis' garden. Moreover, it lets us present ourselves with confidence and authority in all areas

of our professional and personal life.

Great Grooming is all about how we look; groom ourselves and how other people relate to these

things. These are genderless grooming tips and are great reminders for everyone.

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Page 3: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

GROOMING, DEPORTMENT & POWER DRESSING

What is the corporate dressing all about? How to wear a tie? How

to choose the right colour for a business impact? How to choose

the right suit? This module focuses on the outer self like your

clothes, hair, styling, the way you walk, sit, carry yourself and

many more to create a powerful impact.

The Language of Clothes

How to accessorise your look

Wardrobe Planning & Maintenance

Mannerism

Body Language

Body Care & Style Choices

Appearance

Dressing for Success

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Page 4: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

ANATOMYedge a

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HEAD

BODY

LEGS

Hair

Face

Eyes

Ears

Mouth

Neck

Arms

Shoulders

Stomach

Hips

Waist

Butt

Thighs

Knee

Calves

Ankle

Feet

Soles

Toes

Nail

Elbows

Wrist

Palm

Fingers

Nails

Page 5: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

HEAD-TO-TOE MORNING GROOMING CHECKLIST

For a Man For Men & Women

Head Beard and/or mustache well

trimmed After shave applied Trim nostril hair

Hair well brushed, well combed, well cut &

clean Face well washed Ears clean Neck washed Eye brows combed/done

Body Clean shirt

Collar & Cuffs checked for fraying

Spotless well tied tie

Body well washed

Deodorant applied

Clothes spot-free & well pressed

No buttons missed

Clean Handkerchief

Check for dandruff "fallout"

Hands Nail well trimmed

Hand lotion applied

Hands washed

Nails clean & in good shape

Rings clean & free from soap film

Watchband in good shape

Legs & Feet

Clean socks pulled high

Laces on Shoes or Tassels on

loafers in good shape

Shoes well-polished & free of scuff marks

Shoe heels in good condition

Handbag Leather clean & polished

Hardware polished

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Page 6: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE SHAPE & HAIR STYLE

1. Round Face - Your face is as wide as it is long. This may vary a

little but generally the measurement is close.

2. Rectangular or Oblong - Longer than it is wide.

3. Heart or Diamond- Narrow at jaw line, wide at cheekbones/and

or forehead.

4. Triangular – Reverse of the heart Shape.

5. Square - your face is about as wide as it is long.

6. Oval - Length equal to one and a half times width.

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Page 7: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

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1. Hair styles with fullness and height at the crown.

2. Off center parts3. Short hair styles with a swept-back

direction or hair styles that are longer than chin length.

4. Layering the top to achieve fullness and keeping the rest of the cut relatively close to the face, will give longer and narrower effect.

5. Avoid chin length and center parts 6. Also straight chopped bangs or

fullness at side of ears

• Round Face - Your face is as wide as it is long. This may

vary a little but generally the measurement is close.

FACE – ROUND

Page 8: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

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1. Styles with short to medium lengths, shoulder or shorter.

2. Wispy bangs, fullness at the sides of your face

3. Layers add softness to the straight lines in your face

4. side parts5. Avoid long hair- it adds length/height6. Center parts look great

• Rectangular or Oblong - Longer than it is wide.

FACE – RECTANGLE

Page 9: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

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1. Everything works with your face2. You may need to leave weight in the

back nape area 3. Don’t wear too much hair on your face

• Heart or Diamond - Narrow at jaw line, wide at cheekbones/and or forehead.

FACE – HEART

Page 10: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

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1. Reverse of the heart-shape, a dominant jaw line with narrowing at the cheek bone and temples.

2. Shorter hair that is full at the temples and taper at the jaws

3. Off center parts, wedges and shags look great. Styles which are full at the temples and taper at the jaw line looks nice. Try tucking hair behind your ears

4. Avoid long, full hair styles that draw attention to jaw line

5. Don’t add height at the crown

• Triangular Face - Reverse of the heart Shape.

FACE – TRIANGLE

Page 11: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

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1. Any hair shape2. Any length3. Hair off your face look good4. Avoid styles that cover or add weight

to your face5. No heavy bangs or too forward-

directed styles.

• Oval Face - your face is about as wide as it is long.

FACE – OVAL

Page 12: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

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HAIR1. Start with your diet- introduce fresh fruits and green

vegetables, drink plenty of water and cut short spicy or junk foods.

2. Take multi vitamins for a month or two if hair is very damaged 3. Use good quality hair brushes and wide toothed combs. Wet

hair is damaged easily.4. Use lukewarm water when washing hair5. Always use a shampoo and separate conditioner according to

your hair type6. Shampoo well and use balls of fingers to clean scalp.7. Use a separate conditioner and do not use it on the scalp8. Always point the dryer down as you blow-dry your hair, as

blowing hair upward can cause frizz. Use anti frizz serum for flyaway hair.

9. Excessive styling products can make hair dull10.De-stress 11.Avoid sleeping in hair accessories

FACE – SHAPE & HAIR STYLE

Page 13: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE – NECK

If your neck is too short If your neck is too long

1. Avoid turtleneck.

2. Avoid long dangling earring, high

necks, small scarves and chokers.

3. Make your jacket collar sits

slightly away from the neck and

low in the back, so your neck will

look longer

4. If you have short hair and wear

soft material like chiffon expose

some skin between hair and

collar to diffuse the shortness of

your neck.

5. Deep U, off shoulder, V neck,

strapless have very good

camouflage effect.

6. Long chain, single colour

dressing, move focal point away

from the chin.

1. Do not to expose too much of it.

2. Dangling, round and bold

earrings are best.

3. Close neck on a heavy material

fabric is advisable

4. One button opened on a shirt has

a more dramatic effect than if it

were closed all the way up the

first button.

5. Avoid deep U, off shoulder, V

neck and strapless

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Page 14: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE – ACCESSORIES – NECK TIESedge a

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Page 15: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE – ACCESSORIES – NECK TIE KNOTS

The Four-In-Hand Knot

The Half-Windsor Knot

The Ascot Tie Knot

The Windsor Knot

The Bow Tie Knot

The Pocket Square Fold

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Page 16: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE – ACCESSORIES – SCARVESedge a

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Page 17: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE – ACCESSORIES – NECK TIES & SHOESedge a

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Page 18: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FACE – ACCESSORIES – SUNGLASSESedge a

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1. Besides being useful, eyeglasses could be an accessory use to make your face beautiful. Their shape and colour are important to the face and the overall coordination to your clothing.

2. Oval face: Frames should follow the curve of the brow to balance the shape of the face.

3. Square face: Frames should not be small in size and never square.4. Round face: Frames should be narrow and never round.5. Pear-shaped face: Frames should be wide enough to create an

illusion of width across the face.6. Oblong face: Frames should be wide and has no up-curve to give

illusion of width to the face.7. If you have a choice, remember to coordinate the style and colour

of your frame to your clothing. Metallic and earth tones are more flexible to different garment styles and colours. Buy something that doesn't contrast drastically with your hair and clothing.

Page 19: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ARMS/HANDS

For thin arms For heavy arms

1. Good: Long sleeves, full sleeve,

bishop sleeve, Cardigans,

sweatshirt

2. Bad: Strapless, halter,

sleeveless, tank, long vertical

necklines, snug knits, clingy

fabrics, big hand jewellery.

1. Good: Loose or full sleeves such

as dolman, and padded

shoulders.

2. Details that give attention to

the necklines are excellent

camouflage.

3. Bad: Heavy fabrics, thick

sleeves, snug sleeves,

sleeveless, horizontal stripes

designs, big polka dots,

oversized hand jewelleries.

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Nail care…1. Keep it short to medium.2. Clean and buffed3. No chipped polish or infected nails

Page 20: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – WRIST WATCHESedge a

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Page 21: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – IF YOUR SHOULDERS ARE…

Wide Square Sloping Narrow

1. Avoid cup sleeves,

shawls or any sort

of puff sleeve

2. Prefer softer fabrics

across you

shoulders

3. Minimize use of

shoulder pads.

4. Full skirt and full

pant silhouettes

create an illusion of

perfect proportion.

1. Horizontal and

striped pattern are

not advisable.

2. Soft fabrics like silk

blouses with gentle

gathering at the yoke

are advisable.

3. Raglan (cut from

neck to underarm, no

sleeve cut) sleeves

emphasize

squareness.

4. Avoid the use of

padding.

5. Full skirt and full

pant silhouettes

create a perfect

illusion.

1. Anything with soft

shoulders are not

good.

2. Anything off shoulder

are nightmares

3. Tailored shoulders

with padded shoulder

are perfect

camouflage.

4. To give an illusion

underneath always

use shoulder pads.

5. The halter neckline,

collarless styles are

not advisable.

6. Crisp fabrics create

good illusion of the

underneath. sloping

shoulder

7. Wide collars, sailor,

winged pleated,

capped and pushed-

up sleeves are good.

8. Stand up straight,

because slumping

exaggerates sloping

shoulder.

1. Seam lines should be

at the outer edge of

your natural

shoulders.

2. Avoid sleeveless line

because they disguise

with their grace and

fullness.

3. Cap sleeves, tops that

have gathering

attached to the

shoulder line,

tailored and crisp

fabrics are good.

4. Padded shoulders are

advisable specially if

your have sloping

shoulders.

5. Wide collars designs

are good camouflage.

6. Avoid anything with

soft of sloped

shoulders or

Strapless , off-

shoulders are not

recommended.

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Page 22: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – STOMACHedge a

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If you have a protruding abdomen

1. A-lines and empire waistline are effective cover-ups. 2. Sewn-down pleats have a controlling girdle effect. 3. Straight skirts tend to cling under the stomach. 4. Side slash pockets divert the eye from the center of the

tummy. 5. Skirt with gentle little gathers at the sides of the skirt front

slimming effect.

Good Bad

1. Waistless dress, empire,

chemise, wrap dresses with

diagonal closing, overblouse

and tunics, loose sweaters and

blouses, pleated trousers, A-line

skirts, dark belts, long and full

coat.

1. Clingy fabrics and halter tops.

Avoid narrow skirts and

anything fitted. Avoid hip belt.

Page 23: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – HIPSedge a

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1. You will look hippier with straight skirts and pants. 2. Blouse covering part of the hips from the rear is a very

good camouflage. 3. Avoid details in the pocket. 4. Back pockets make you look round.

Page 24: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – WAIST BELTSedge a

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Belts can transform your outfit into a flattering ensemble. The accent of a belt sometimes acts as a focal point of an outfit.

Tips 1. Wear belts, both wide and narrow, only if your figure allows.2. Decorative buckles are good (glitz or detail to belts) only if you

have a small waist3. If you're short-waisted, large belts will make you look ever

shorter.4. Match your belt colour to your top it you're short-waisted.5. Match your belt colour to your bottom if you're long-waisted.

Note: Shirt over belt can hide a thick or short waist. It creates a good silhouette of your body and can make an outfit flow in your waist.

Page 25: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – WAIST BELTSedge a

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Page 26: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – WAIST BELTSedge a

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BODY – ACCESSORIES – BAGSedge a

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1. Match your bag with your shoe and this can carry you on the trendy fashionable side. The match need not be perfect as long as colour-family are the same.

2. Bags should coordinate with your clothing.3. Small bag for a big woman or vice versa is a big mistake.4. Straps on shoulder bags should be kept shorter on petites.5. Neutral colours like beige, brown, black, gray goes with almost

everything.6. Buy a bigger size if you plan to overload. Bloated small bag is awkward7. Generally, non-glitzy clutch can be used in almost every occasion.8. Small clutch are elegant for evening.

MUST in your big purse:1. Tissues2. Wet wipes3. Sanitizer4. Cream5. Lipstick/kohl/gloss6. Money7. Gum/ mints8. pins

Page 28: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – PERFUMESedge a

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Where

1. Perfumes on skin pulse points (warm spots) - wrists, behind ears,

inner part of elbows and knees, neck near the collar-bone

2. Perfumes last longer on oily than dry skin (Hence, before using

perfumes use some Vaseline or oily cream)

When

Summer perfumes - Fruity, reminiscent of spring , summer flowers

• Fragrances are more intense when it is warm (therefore, in

summertime use less perfume or use the lighter fragrance

Winter perfumes – All heavier fragrances

• The musk scent

What

1. Perfumes are divided according to the content of the fragrance.

i. Aftershave lotions and splash colognes used by men consists of

0.5-2% of perfume concentrate

ii. Eau de cologne for men – 3-5%.

iii. Eau de toilette for women – 4-8%.

iv. Eau de parfum for women – 8-15%

v. Parfum for women – 10-20%

Page 29: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – PERFUMES – TYPESedge a

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Floral

fragrances

1. These fragrances are the most popular and they also cause the

least controversy as for their reception by customers.

2. Floral fragrances are designed either around the scent of only

one flower, e.g. lily in Diorissimo by Dior (1956), or around the

floral bouquet, e.g. Pleasures by Estee Lauder (1995).

Fruit

fragrances

1. These fragrances are most often defined as fresh and light

scents.

2. They use the aromas of melon, lemon, orange, tangerine,

grapefruit, or orange blossom.

3. The most popular fragrances of this type are: Tommy Girl by

Tommy Hilfinger (1996) and Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani

(1995).

Ocean

perfumes

1. These fragrances are the newest types of fragrances based on

synthetic ingredients which smell like fresh ocean waters.

1. Green fragrances

2. Oriental perfumes

3. Chypre fragrances

Page 30: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BODY – ACCESSORIES – PERFUMES TYPES – OCEANedge a

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Green

fragrances

1. These fragrances are made with distinctive and fresh aromas which

remind you of environmental scents, for example: woods, grass, sour

apples or lavender. Now the well-known fragrance of this type is Beautiful

by Estee Lauder (1986).

Oriental

perfumes

1. These fragrances are associated with Far East.

2. Their base is designed around exotic spices and flowers, sandalwood and

resin.

3. The first perfumes of such kind were introduced in 1925 by Guerlain

under the name of Shalimar.

4. The oriental fragrances are very strong and in the eighties when there

became very popular, they became also banned by the owners of some of

the big companies in their office buildings.

5. Oriental scents are not in fashion all the time. However, those who like

them are usually very fond of them.

6. The typical example here is Obssession by Calvin Klein from 1985.

Chypre

fragrances

1. These fragrances are the smallest yet the most unique group of perfumes.

Therefore women who love this scent will always love it, and those who

cannot stand it, will never wear it.

2. The basic note here is oak moss scent which gives it very specific aroma of

soil. Then others notes of ciste labdanum are added.

3. The complementary notes are: patchouli, rose or bergamot. The examples

here are: the classic Aromatic Elixir by Clinique (1972) and recent Rush

by Gucci (1999).

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BODY – ACCESSORIES – PERFUMES TYPESedge a

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How

1. Do not splash perfumes on silk because it leaves stains.

2. It is better to perfume your body before you get dressed because you can

spray more of your body then and it will not leave stains on your clothes.

3. Most perfumes are designed to last for about four hours.

4. Some of them may last longer but they will change their scent then.

5. Therefore it is advisable to use perfumes once or twice more during the

day.

6. Spray cologne onto the back of your knees before getting dressed, as

scents tend to rise.

7. Try to keep your perfumes in dark and cold places so they can remain

long-lasting.

Sensitive

Skin

1. Look for colognes that list all-natural ingredients free from synthetic

fragrances.

2. Spray it on your handbag or your hair or the parts of clothing which do

not touch your skin directly.

3. If you want to find out if you are allergic to some fragrances, spray it

gently on your wrist or inner part of your elbow.

4. If after about an hour you notice some reaction, it means that the

perfumes are not for you.

5. Recommended brands: "Eruptable" by Volcanic Earth, "Gents Cologne

Balm," "Polo Blue" by Ralph Lauren

Page 32: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

LEGS – THIGHS, HEM/ANKLESedge a

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1. Big thighs - Remember to buy pants one size larger for comfort and to avoid that stretched look.

2. Hem length is one of the most effective illusions of form.

Here are some rules:1. The shorter the legs, the shorter the skirts. 2. Colour and fabric weight elongate or shorten the length

silhouette 3. The darker the colour or the heavier the fabric, the shorter

you should wear it. 4. Lightweight fabric such as silk can be worn a bit longer to

distract its float and won't appear short. 5. The colour of your stockings and shoes affect or

exaggerate the length of a hemline.

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LEGS – TROUSERSedge a

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Some basic rules for pant's length 1. The front hem should touch the top of the shoe covering

the entire instep. 2. The back pant hem can be a little longer maybe a quarter

of an inch. 3. Too short hem length on dress pants looks ridiculous

Page 34: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

LEGS – GENTS' FOOTWEARedge a

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Page 35: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

LEGS – LADIES’ FOOTWEARedge a

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Page 36: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

LEGS – FOOTWEARedge a

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Shoes demand the same careful consideration as other wardrobe choices. Shoes can draw the eye downward so take advantage.

1. Nothing clumpy2. Open toes - pedicure must3. With winter wear, always opt for closed shoes4. If you have fat feet, strappy and cutout styles are good. 5. If your feet are small, bright colours or coloured appliqués

are good. 6. If you are in for a long walk, avoid squeezing into narrow

shoes.

Page 37: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

LEGS – YOUR SOCKS

Color of Socks Appropriately worn with

o White o White suits in summer

o White Sweat Socks o Athletic shoes, boat shoes and loafers in leisure

activities

o Black Navy, or Dark Grey o Business suits

o Brown o Brown or Khaki suits

o Pastels o Summer suits of poplin, khaki and seersuckers

(for sharp dressers)

o Bright coloured and argyle o Blazers or sports jacket with gray flannels, or

with corduroys or khakis for leisure wear only

o Black Sheer o Black-tie suits

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GENERAL INFOedge a

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1. Outdated and loose jackets are a no-no2. Complete matching is tacky3. Everything should be well-tailored4. Colours should be soothing5. Should make you feel confident6. No shoulder pads7. Cut-offs with boots are a bad choice8. Nothing stiff and uncomfortable9. Flowing fabric with soft flares, fitting but relaxed

silhouettes are in10.Short skits and covered pumps are not pleasing11.Monochrome in shades, mixed textures always good12.Muted shines are lovely13.Suede plus suede - no-no14.Ankle length skirt with closed shoes is usually hit n miss15.Long flowy skirts with heels that don’t show are great16.Uniformity in colour and print elongate and slim the body

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GENERAL INFOedge a

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1. Sequins, when used well- are a super accessory2. High waist, pleated/bunched bottoms enlarge the bottom and look

graceless3. "Practical" sandals are usually unflattering4. Summer clothes should be light, flowy. pair with light but big ear-

rings5. Mixing print - combine light and dark and use a connecting colour6. Red and black combo is passé7. Black accessories for light clothes - too sever and cheapen the

look8. A long skirt is best worn with flat shoes, ballet slippers or backless

slip-ons. 9. Pumps of medium height work the best when you are off to work.

Round, square or slightly tapered heels will give a professional look.

10.Straight glamorous pants look the best when they are worn with strapped, high-heeled sandals.

11.Boots, chunky-soled shoes or sneakers go well with jeans as well as corduroy pants.

12.For a party look, team your dressy outfit with a glamorous pair of sandals.

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ACCESSORIESedge a

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What accessories can do:1. It can make your wardrobe seem larger. 2. It can update your basics. 3. It can add colour or splash 4. It can focus the observer's eye for the emphasis you want.5. It can change the outlook of your situation in a short time.6. It can make or break an outfit.

TIPS1. Buy always the best quality that you can afford. 2. Don't ignore workmanship. 3. Make sure you have the poise to carry through whatever you

wear.4. Accessories should be proportionate and harmonize with the size,

shape, and colour of your outfit. 5. Too much of a one colour sometimes looks awkward. 6. Don't overdo.

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ACCESSORISE THE POWER DRESSER…edge a

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Perfume

Pens

Mobiles / PDAs

Wrist Watch

Spectacles

Chains/Cuff links

Rings

Wallet

Bags

Handkerchief

Hair

Under Garments

Shirt

Tie/Tie Pin

Belt

Trousers

Suit

Socks

Shoes

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ACCESSORIES – IN YOUR DESK OR LOCKERS

Comb & Brush

Nail File & Nail Clipper

Hand Cream

Toothbrush & Paste or mouth freshener

Makeup/Shaving Kit

Nail Polish/Lacquer

Hair Spray

Lint Brush

Facial Tissue

Safety Pins

Small Sewing Kit

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ACCESSORIES – JEWELLERY / STOLES / SCARVESedge a

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JewelleryTips:1. Wear contrasting shape all the time if you have a round body

built. 2. Anything dangling such as earrings make a body silhouette slim. 3. Gold tones fit almost any skin colour. 4. Don't overdo.

Stoles/scarves1. Scarf is interesting and fun to wear, but they take practice to

make them stay perfectly in place. 2. Anchor scarves secretly with tiny safety to stop it from slipping. 3. Loop a scarf more than once to keep it steady. 4. The triangle in the back of the scarf can be tucked inside the

collar. 5. You can wear a larger square scarf loose in a middy effect by tying

the square knot lower down on your chest. 6. A wool scarf hanging loosely over a coat looks nice.

Page 44: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

IF BUYING CORPORATE WEAR, ASK YOURSELF…

Is it appropriate for the kind of job?

Is it a fashion statement or my style?

Can I afford it?

Is it okay for my kind of physique?

Is it comfortable?

Is it right for this season, in this climate?

Is the fabric of real good quality?

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Page 45: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE – INDIAN FASHION STATEMENT…edge a

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Page 46: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE – INDIAN FASHION STATEMENT…edge a

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Page 47: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE – MORE FASHION STATEMENT…edge a

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Page 48: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE – MORE FASHION STATEMENT…edge a

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Page 49: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FABRIC – IT’S MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU THOUGHT!

Wool, Polyester, Cashmere, Flannel,

Corduroy, Linen, Cotton, Viscose,

etc…

Wool blends for traditional formal

suit

Warm days, lightweight woolen

blends like tropical worsteds

Linen – ideal for warm, humid days

/ tropical countries

Avoid poor quality, pure synthetics

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Page 50: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

COLORS…

Dark, Solid colors (Navy blue, Black,

Steel Grey) for the first suits

Pinstripes, Herringbones, Checks for

the additional suits

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Page 51: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

DID YOU KNOW?!!edge a

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Jackets

• Jackets can be traced back to the early 18th Century

• Grey and Black jackets came in due to soot and muddy roads

Tuxedo

• The single breasted jacket is a direct descendant of the tailcoat

• The Tuxedo made its debut in USA in 1896 when a celebrated dandy named Griswold Lorillard wore it to a white-tie-and-tails ball at an exclusive country club in Tuxedo Park, New York (founded in the 1880s by a group of prominent and wealthy New Yorkers)

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THE THREE TRADITIONAL SUITSedge a

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American

British

Italian

•Natural shoulder suits popularized by the Brooke Brothers

•Slightly padded shoulders, shaped and with vents

•Slightly higher shoulders, clings more tightly and is usually without vents

Page 53: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

Lapel Roll

Front / Chest Piece

Buttons

Lining

Shoulder Pad

Arms & Sleeves

MAKING OF A SUIT… THE TRIMedge a

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Page 54: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

1. Shoulder Pad

1. Layers of animal hair & Felt

2. Hanger test for quality & rigidity

3. Hanger sewn onto collar fabric

4. Zero puckering

2. Lapel Roll1. It’s a roll not a fold!

2. Stitched with zigzag & blind stitch

3. Achieved by a 3D pressing process

3.Arms, Sleeves

& Lining

1. Your hand is not a stand for your suit!

2. 100% cotton felt & hair interlining

3. Sleeve to end ½ inch above wrist

4. The inner lining helps in forming a perfect sleeve head roll

5. Lining – Silk, Acetate, Polyester or Synthetic

4.Floating

Chest Piece

1. Your suit is not an amour!!!

2. Fusing

3. Innovative 3 layers floating chest piece

4. Front canvas with 100% flannel felt

5. Buttons

1. Break resistant Corozo buttons

2. Wax coated silk gutterman threads

3. Perfect symmetry for button hole

4. High quality 100% Acetate body lining

MAKING OF A SUITedge a

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Page 55: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

Single-breasted

One-button Suit (SB1)

Single-breasted

Two-button Suit (SB2)

Single-breasted

Three-button Suit (SB3)

STYLE - POWER DRESSING…

Observation: Lapel (collar) & number of buttons

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Page 56: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

Double-breasted

single working button

Double-breasted

double working buttonDouble-breasted

three working buttons

STYLE - POWER DRESSING…

Observation: Lapel (collar)

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Page 57: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE - POWER DRESSING…

Observation: Length, cut, pockets & number of buttons

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Page 58: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE - POWER DRESSING…edge a

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Observation: Cut, pockets & number of buttons

Wrap skirt / Wrap around skirt

Page 59: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE - POWER DRESSING…edge a

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Page 60: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

STYLE - FASHION STATEMENT…edge a

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Blazer Suit with 4 buttons2 button suit

Page 61: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

POWER DRESSING…

Formal shoes & shirt when shopping for suit

Business, wear a single-breasted suit, not a blazer

/ sports coat

Always un-button the bottom coat button

Breast welt pockets are not for your Pens

Flap Pockets not for mobiles or brochures

Avoid a button down shirt with your formal suit

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Page 62: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

GETTING THE BEST WEAR… (MAINTENANCE)

Dry clean only if apparently dirty

Never fold a suit

Never store in a plastic cover

After each wear, air out the suit

Gentle brushing with light strokes

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Page 63: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

POWER DRESSING…

Short slim people

avoid heavy or medium patterned fabric

Tall people

wear bulky fabrics like unfinished worsteds,

tweed & flannels

Athletic people

herringbone patterns & subtle stripes

Heavy torsos

Two buttoned single-breasted jackets

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Page 64: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

HINTS FOR “NO-BRAINER” DRESSING

Purchase all the components for an outfit at the same time,

including accessories

Co-ordinate pieces that can be mixed together for different

looks

Select the outfit and hang it outside the closet the evening

before

Take time periodically to examine and repair your garments

Make regular trips to the cleaners

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Page 65: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

FASHION MISTAKES

Wearing the wrong colors

Wearing too much makeup

Wearing clothes that are too small

Chipped nail polish

An old-fashioned hairstyle or messy hair

Messy Shoes or wrong shoes for your outfit

Roots that show

Bras and bra straps that show

Mismatched hose

Wearing inappropriate clothes

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Page 66: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND – WARDROBE

START by simplifying your wardrobe

Discard outgrown clothes

Discard/donate clothes you never wear

Repair things immediately

Take care of clothing according to their label cleaning

instructions (dry clean or hang dry, etc.)

Don't buy clothes with exaggerated designs and colours-

can’t repeat them often

Toilet habits

Eating habits

Politeness

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Page 67: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

POINTS TO REMEMBER

Grooming starts with cleanliness, body care, posture

Understanding your figure - it’s plus and minus points - and

showcasing suitably

Planning ahead when possible - iron/polish/accessorize

Building your wardrobe - collect a few classic items that will help for

non-inspired days

Only the best - discard everything that is damaged, out-dated,

unflattering, ill-fitting

Mixing colours as nature would - be imaginative without jarring

Confidence - every item in your closet should make you happy

BRANDS:

Quality shows... and lasts. If it is a brand, flaunt it tastefully

If it is not, go for discreet or no-logo products. Worn well, almost

anything will look nice

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Page 68: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND - GROSSIES

Dirt, stickiness/ wetness

Odours - body, oral, unpleasant products

Hair - sticking out of nose/ears

Unclean nose, ears, teeth.

Goop in corners of the eyes and mouth.

Lipstick on teeth

Torn clothes

Tight clothes - camel toes, strained stretch

material, bulges

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Page 69: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND - COLOURS

Balance of light and dark colours offer the best effect. For

instance, exposing light skin at the neckline when wearing a dark

dress.

Strong colours like red and orange can dampen other colours. So

used in small amounts it can make a solid colour stand out.

An outfit will look smaller in a dark colour (dark colours seem to

move away from you)

They appear larger in a light colour (these appear to come

forward). So white is more expansive than black.

Colours look dramatically different depending on lighting

(natural/artificial), indoor/outdoor).

The same colour worn from head to toe (monochromatic) has

slimming and elongating effect.

Dressing in contrasting colours and blocks or patterns i.e.

dividing the body into numerous colours, shortens and widens.

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Page 70: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND - CAMOUFLAGE

You can direct the viewer's eye to flattering spots- focal

points. For instance:

Earrings, dramatic makeup or a ruffled neck top can draw

the eye to the face

Slits and high heels can draw the eye to the legs

Jewellery against dark clothing can draw attention away

from the body flaws

So can vets, jackets, sweaters, shawl/stoles

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Page 71: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND – TALL & FULL

Do Don’t

1. Clothing must fit well,

accentuate curves

2. Black, navy, brown are good

dark colours for slimming, but

it must suit the weather and

occasion

3. Do monochromatic

4. De-emphasize the top-heavy

figure by wearing simple,

uncluttered styling for tops

5. Hip or mid-thigh length jackets,

coats, long cardigans are good.

6. Simple, soft draping sleeves,

dark colours and tones are

advisable.

7. Patterns should be small and

muted.

1. Don't wear skin-tight or too

loose clothing

2. Avoid front-pleated trousers, or

pleated skirts.

3. Avoid too many details -

pockets, neck/collar details,

ruffles, pleats, gathers, tucks.

4. Avoid short flowy skirts,

instead, opt for fitting ones

5. Avoid empire cuts (flowing from

just below the bust)

6. No packed sequin dresses -

these tend to enlarge figure

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Page 72: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND – TROUSER FIT

Baggy makes you look smaller

For long waisted - Always wear high waist with plain belt

For short waisted - Low rise with a belt that matches the top of

your outfit

For low hip bumps - Avoid snug fit, use straight legs instead

For short legs - High waist, fitted full length create longer line

For protruding stomach - Stretch without side and back zippers.

No buttons.

For large derriere - Avoid fancy detailed large back pockets.

For flat derriere - Fancy detailed large back pockets are good.

For heavy thighs - Snug fit with back pockets. Avoid anything

very loose.

For thin thighs - Baggy front pockets are essential.

For thick waist - Avoid pleated and wide waistband with or

without belts.

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Page 73: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

KEEP IN MIND – SKIN CARE

Your skin is your best base and accessory

Basics - Exfoliate, Epilate, Moisturise

Bleach every 4 weeks for that glow

Also, know your skin type (oily, combination, normal, dry,

etc) and treat/ use make-up accordingly

OPTIMUM SLEEP

DRINK LOTS OF WATER

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Page 74: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

WE SHOULD ALL LEARN FROM THE WEATHER,

IT NEVER PAYS ATTENTION TO CRITICS…

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Page 75: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

BOOKS FOR REFERENCE

Letitia Balridge’s New Complete Guide to Executive Manners –

Letitia Balridges

Power Etiquette – What You Don’t Know can Kill Your Career –

Dana May Casperson

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Page 76: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

GO AHEAD

… MAKE AN

IMPACT!!!

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Page 77: Grooming, Deportment & Power Dressing   Ver2.1

OR END UP NAKED!!!

edge academy™

407, Brigade Towers, Brigade Road

Bangalore – 560 025

[email protected]

www.ealpl.com

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