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FUNCTION ANDPERFORMANCEMEET FASHIONT

he Los Angeles Textile Show,held is the only North Americantradeshow that offers both aFrench and Italian Pavilion, along

with its traditional assortment ofAmerican-based fabric companies.

For this season, the show also addeda new Korean Pavilion, which increasedthe number of exhibitors by 16%, givingbuyers an even more global perspectiveof the latest knitted fabrics. These moveshelped to boost the number of buyers’ atthe show by 7% for the three-day eventat the California Market Centre.

For this show, there was anotherchange that created anxiety for someexhibitors. Many exhibitors were movedfrom their private showroom space theyhad for past shows to booth space inthe reconfigured Penthouse Pavilion. A number of previous exhibitors wereunsure how this change would impacttheir traffic. Although the “maze-like” set-

up of booth space in the PenthousePavilion tended to be somewhatconfusing to attendees, severalexhibitors were both surprised andpleased with the amount and quality ofthe traffic they received in their booths.Some felt that the more open boothspace was more inviting and lessintimidating than being in a moreprivate showroom.

“This was the best show we’ve hadhere in six years! We saw many peoplewho were interested in ourorganic/ecological story, “ said JimJacabecy, president of GGrreeeenn--SSppuunnTTeexxttuurreedd KKnniittss. “It was non-stop -absolutely amazing!”

A number of exhibitors returned to theShow this year after a hiatus. NNooddiiss, aParis, France based exhibitor had abooth in the Penthouse Pavilion a fewyears ago, but had not exhibited atrecent shows. The decision to return

came because the French exhibitorswere moved into Fashion TheatrePavilion with the Italians to create aEuropean contingency. Michael Touati,owner of Nodis stated, “We were upstairsbefore, but the ambiance here in theFashion Theatre Pavilion is much better.It has the feel of Premiere Vision andPreview New York, which we also attend.My reason for coming back was that myagent here in Los Angeles has beendoing a tremendous job here on theWest Coast, and he encouraged us toexhibit again. This way, I can haveappointments and visit directly with mycustomers, so we felt the need to behere again to develop additionalbusiness with new people.”

Fabric trends The textile trends that were most soughtout at the show included a wide range ofnovelty and surface interest fabrics.

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LA TEXTILE SHOW

LA Textile show lobby area in the California Market Centre Fabric trend area in the French/Italian Pavilion.

Floral designs by French designers Nodis

Anything withembellishmentgenerated a greatdeal of interest.Beadwork,crewelwork, and embroideries werevery popular. Along with ribbon-decorated fabrics, laces, eyelets andpiques, pleated, seersuckered, andpuckered looks, burn-out fabrics onsheer grounds were also well received.Popular prints included everything fromsmall polka-dots, to liberty-inspiredflorals, to medium-sized forals, to fine-line floral designs.

Fashion buyers were showing interestin more functional lifestyle fabrics, whichare crossing over from the outdoorperformance market. And, companieslike AAddiiddaass, which typically is focusedon the outdoor/fitness markets, came tothe show to get inspiration from the

fashion side, and possibly expand intomore lifestyle apparel.

Designer Textiles, a first time exhibitorat the show, came to Los Angeles topromote the company’s line of Merinolifestyle fabrics to the fashion market.Jose Fernandez, North American directorfor DDeessiiggnneerr TTeexxttiilleess, said, “Surprisingly,we have also seen a number of ourcustomers from the outdoor industry hereat the show, which was unexpected!”

Fernandez continued, “To the pointabout functionality, and its cross-overinto mainstream fashion markets, whatwe’re seeing from our performancecustomers is that they want to movemore into lifestyle apparel. For

example, on the fashion side, whatwe’re seeing are the yoga-inspiredapparel companies wanting to offer alegitimate technical story for productsthat traditionally were more fashion orcasual sportswear oriented. They wantto maintain a fashion appearance, butnow are interested in having a moretechnical tint to it. That’s a way that wecan add value for them. Merino apparelis extremely functional, and well suitedfor lifestyle apparel.”

Besides Adidas, other key companiesin attendance at the show included:LLuucckkyy BBrraanndd, VViiccttoorriiaa’’ss SSeeccrreett, BBCCBBGG,BBeebbee, KKeevvaann HHaallll, AAnnnn FFeerrrriiddaayy, MMiicchhaaeellLLeevviinnee, and KKaarreenn KKaannee. KnittingInternational takes a look at the types offabrics that were presented at the showby a variety of the global supplierexhibitors.

Novelty knitsLos Angeles-based knitter PPaacciiffiicc CCooaassttKKnniittttiinngg is a 15 year old company whichspecialises in novelty knits for thecontemporary market. According toMike Tolouee, owner, the company usesnovelty yarns, such as micro Modal,Modal, rayon, Supima cotton and somenylon performance yarns, as well as avariety of fine yarns. It also providesmoisture management properties throughthe finishing processes.

Tolouee noted that currently the trendis toward sheer fabrics. “These arecotton/spandex, but they are very sheer,see-though, and the finishing is verydifficult. A lot of people import these fromEurope, because they are more exotic.

prints, tie-dyed stretch velours, burn-outs, and fabrics with surface interest,including glittered, ribbon-embellishedand sequined knits. The companyprimarily services the swimwear anddance wear markets.

Merino wool knitwearNew Zealand-based circular knitting millDDeessiiggnneerr TTeexxttiilleess is a specialist in everystage of Merino wool production. Thecompany started as a cotton mill, untilquota restrictions on cotton made itdifficult to continue in the cottonbusiness. Jose Fernandez, Director,North America, explained, “We wanted tobe able to compete in the domestic U.S.market, so we started working withmerino fibre. Historically, the fibre went toEurope to be used in wovens for finesuitings. So, our mill marked the firsttime that the fine New Zealand Merinofibre was used for knits. Also, it’s the firsttime that the New Zealand growers andthe New Zealand Merino wool industrymade an effort to distinguish their fibreand their products from Merino woolgrown elsewhere in the world, rather thanjust allowing it to go to auction, and getblended with other wools, and usedprimarily in wovens, “

Initially, Designer Textiles targeted themajority of its core business towardscompanies in the outdoor industry.Today, the company is firmly entrenchedin the outdoor market, working withcompanies like AArrcc’’TTeerryyxx,, IIbbeexx, andSSmmaarrttwwooooll. Basically, Designer Textileshas become a key source for apparelmanufacturer’s in the outdoor marketoffering Merino wool products.

According to Fernandex, the purposefor Designer Textiles’ participation in theLos Angeles Textile Show was to takeMerino wool into the fashion world. He

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in the company’s Missoni-inspired knitfabrics. These fabrics are made fromspace-dyed yarns and are used for adiverse range of apparel. Popularprint patterns mentioned includedpaisleys and medium sized florals.

BB..NN..BB IInntt’’ll TTeexxttiilleess IInncc. is a westcoast converter/importer of stretchfabrics. This family owned business has

been inoperation for55 years,and is now inits thirdgeneration.BNB importsfabrics fromall over the

world - Japan, China, Korea, etc. It alsodevelops some domestic goods, workingwith partners to develop knits and stretchwovens. The company specialises indyeing/finishing goods, based oncustomer requirments. It also stocks avariety of fabrics in its warehouse in LosAngeles. BNB is very popular withnovice designers because of its lowminimums. The company offers a broadrange of knit constructions, includingacetate blended knits, tricots, interlocks,novelty mesh fabrics, stretch laces,popcorn knits, stretch laces, Hologram

We do some ofthe small exclusivethings that nobody elsein town wants to do.”

The company alsooffers a line of pointellefabrics. These pointellesare 50s/60s cotton orcotton/Modal, andlyocell. Tolouee explained, “We’re alsomoving somewhat towards wool blends(i.e. wool/cotton blends). We do ourown developments in this area and it’svery costly, but we do it for a few of ourcustomers. We do offer some 100%wool, but we import these fabrics fromItaly. Basically, the wool blends that weproduce here are blends containing upto 20% wool. Because of finishinglimitations here, we are very limited onwhat can be done domestically. We alsodo special things like burn-out, andsome very fine fabrics similar to thosemade in Italy.”

DDaaeecchhuunn ccoo..,, LLttdd, a Seoul, Korea-based a dyeing/printing/finishingcompany, works with both knits andwovens. The company has knitting andweaving partners that it works with on aregular basis to provide a variety offabrics requested by its customers.According to a representative for thecompany, many people were interested

Missoni inspired knit fabrics from Daechun

Samples of Merino wool

JUNE 2006

explained, “The environmental conditionsin New Zealand leads toward producinga finer fiber, cleaner fiber, whiter fiber,and a longer staple, all of which allowsus to do some things a bit more easilythan can be done with fiber grownelsewhere in the world. Over the last tenyears, we’ve seen a resurgence ofMerino, which has been driven by takingour fiber and using it in unique ways. “

For the fashion market, DesignerTextiles presented new and interestingweights and knit constructions in Merinowool. Fernandez noted, “You canoccasionally find a knitter to do aMerino jersey, or they’ll do a Merinofabric for their fall line. But, what you’renot seeing is the depth and breadth offabrics that pretty much represent everylightweight knit construction out there.We have interlocks, jerseys, piques,ribs, pontés, crepes, etc. We offerabout every possible knit structuremade with Merino.”

One of the key benefits of Merino isthe comfort level provided. It can beworn right next to the skin comfortably,in a wide range of temperatures.Because it can be made intolightweight fabrics, it’s also comfortablein warm weather. Fernandez noted,“We’ve known for centuries that woolworks, and that’s why Irish fishermenwear it. But, this is sort of the first timethat we’ve been able to wear it next tothe skin comfortably. Our perception inNorth America of wool is that itchyheavy sweater that grandma used tosend you every Christmas, which younever wore more than one time. But,today’s Merino wool is very differentfrom that.”

Fernandez added, “We have atremendous amount of value, becausethere’s a legitimate technical storyassociated with Merino. It managesmoisture. It thermo-regulates. It controlsbody odours. It’s easy-care ? most aremachine washable, tumble dry. So aMerino t-shirt can be used for hikingduring the day, and worn under ablazer for dinner that evening.”

Los Angeles-based distributor BBHHNNIInntteerrnnaattiioonnaall TTeexxttiillee IInncc. is a source fordomestic and imported knit and wovenfabrics. This third-generation, family-owned business has serviced the textileindustry since 1930. It offers both

stretch and non-stretch high qualityfabrics with a large in-stock inventoryavailable for fast delivery, includingimported goods from China, Japan,Korea, India, and Italy.

The company deals directly with anysize manufacturer. Since it offers lowminimums and provides world-wideshipping, BHN has become a popularresource for start-up designers andsmall manufacturers. The company’sfabrics are suitable for all types ofclothing, from evening to casualsportswear for both men and women,as well as fancy and casual dressingfor children.

At the L.A. Textile Show, the companypresented a variety of trendy knitfabrics in polyester, acetates, rayons,nylons, many blended with spandex,including fish nets, sweater knits,spider meshes, burn-outs, stripes,jacquards, laces, and animal prints.

French printsNNooddiiss is a 32-year-old secondgeneration print business based inParis, France. The company offers avariety of printed designs on both knitand woven base cloths. Working withknitting and weaving partners, Nodisprovides fabric printing, based on thedemands and needs of its customerbase. Nodis specializes in printing onsynthetic fibers, and provides its high-quality print fabrics quickly, and at areasonable price.

Michael Touati, owner of thecompany explained, “The prints that weproduce are all done utilizing what’scalled a paper printing process. Paperprinting is done by impregnating thepaper print onto the fabric through heattransfer. Our purpose is to enhance thequality and the vision people can haveon synthetics, and to also show thatsynthetics can have very appreciatedfeelings and aesthetics. The reason thatwe use paper printing is because weare working with mostly synthetics, andthe colours on synthetic fabricsbecome more vibrant through the useof this process.”

Nodis’ customer base crossesdifferent markets, it is compelled toproduce a broad range of designs.However, Touati offered an overview ofseveral print patterns and colours that

are important right now. “There areflorals, rythmics, African prints, laces,stripes, etc., but mainly we are workingin the colourways that are important forthat season. Right now vibrant coloursare more important than pastels. Thefabrics are printed on the gray goods.And the product will come outcompletely different, depending onwhat type of base cloth is beingprinted. So, even with the same print,the products will look completelydifferent.” KKII

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Examples from the BHN range