UK Circumnavigation 2015 Emily Ruffle

• 2400 nautical miles

• 64 Days on Board

• 104 Night hours

• 24 Volunteers

• 26 Competent crew

• 8 Superb Skippers

• Umpteen Gannets, Hundreds of Dolphins and Seals, a handful of Puffins,

• 1 Loch Ness Monster?

This summer, Thermopylae Clipper (the Discovery Sailing Project's largest yacht a 60ft Colvic Clipper)

circumnavigated the UK. The voyage took nine weeks starting on the 5th July. With nothing set in

stone apart from the nine key ports for crew change, the rest of the voyage was open to the

elements. As always the crew was as diverse as ever, travelling from all corners of the UK and

further afield. Adults, Scouts, Explorers, School groups, beginners to ‘olde sea dawgs’ came to enjoy

a week’s sailing!

Leg 1:

Hamble – Yarmouth – Cherbourg – Alderney Race – Guernsey – Dartmouth – Plymouth

Leg 1 was an all adult crew

a week of marmalade

sandwiches, French cuisines

and ice cream. On 6th

July

we set off from Yarmouth at

5.45am, catching the tide

round the Needles before

crossing the channel. We

were making good progress

but with the wind against

tide it didn’t make for the

most comfortable journey.

To my surprise we didn’t

pass many ships but we did

have a low flying helicopter

circle us before flying away.

By midday the wind had dropped and we resorted to the iron sail. When one of the crew cried

“what’s that in the water!” a mysterious unidentified object was floating about 200m away. Skipper

Rob Read grabbed the binoculars and jumped to the challenge. We turned Thermo round to

investigate. We were all set in the man over board positions boat hook at the ready! As we

approached this mysterious white object we were all guessing at what it could be “a new fender!” “a

body!” “Abandoned drugs haul! Is this what the helicopter was looking for?” As we got closer we

burst into laughter as the white pillow floated aimlessly past. Excitement over, we carried on our

way.

In Cherbourg we moored on a floating pontoon, the crew were busy dressing the boat and pumping

the dinghy. Before the dinghy was lowered into the water the clear instructions were “do not let go

of the painter”; before we knew it the dinghy had floated off with the painter still in a firm grip.

Panic broke out “quick the boat hook!” it was too late we were stranded! Quick thinking from one

of the crew as they asked to borrow the neighbouring boats dinghy and quickly rowed off to catch

the runaway.

Onwards to Dartmouth, as the early morning sun bounced off the sea, we were briefly greeted by

our first glimpse of dolphins.

Malcolm wasn’t bothered!

Leg 2:

Plymouth – Fowey – Penzance – Padstow – Lundy – Milford Haven

Figure 1 Padstow early morning flakes

Figure 2 Fog off Lands end

Figure 3 Padstow crew photo and Andy's Birthday

Leg 2 was a week of contrasts, pushing our moral and stamina to the edge. Thermopylae went from

a boat full to just five crew members. The weather was not in our favour and a short journey from

Plymouth to Fowey turned into monster of a journey. Finally mooring in Fowey at 3am we managed

to scrape four hours sleep, before leaving at 8am to catch the tide to Penzance. The neighbouring

yachts were astounded to wake up and

find us moored next to them. Still in

high spirits, we donned on the second

pair of oilies (the first pair were now

soaked through). We left for Penzance

excited to see the stunning Cornish and

Devonshire coast line. The weather had

not improved and the thick fog

encroached us. Why don’t postcards

ever show the real thing? After sailing

all through the night, we treated

ourselves to fresh Cornish pasties from

the butchers.

Padstow was a busy hub of day trippers.

We were able to chill out and enjoy the sunshine celebrating Andy’s Birthday over dinner, cake and a

Cornish ice cream. Lundy was to be the next stop. Anchoring off the eastern side of the island we

spent the day exploring the cliffs, on the lookout for “flying penguins” (aka puffins) and seals.

Leg 3: Milford Haven – Wicklow – Dun Laoghaire – Ardglass – Bangor – Donaghadee

Leg 3 the invasion of Bicester sea

scouts, Thermoplyae was full to the

brim with 16 on board. Due to

weather warnings out in the Irish

sea, we spent Monday in Milford

Haven. Utilising the time, the scouts

were kept busy with Comp

Crew activities and dinghy races. Not

forgetting the frequent trips to the

local ice cream parlour.

After a tough crossing and a brief

stop at Wicklow, we were able to

enjoy some shore leave at Dun

Laoghaire and Ardglass. Ardglass

was a stunning little marina with

two resident seals swimming

amongst the boats. The entrance

was incredibly narrow and only at

low tide you saw the reality of the

challenge we had achieved. The

scouts spent the evening playing

football and cards while the

afterguard found the local pub.

The bubbles hadn’t even settled in our Guinness when we were invited to join the

local pub quiz. Not wanting to disappoint and refuse this kind gesture, we picked up our glasses and

sat down to business. After numerous rounds and devouring snacks the final scores came in we had

come second… to last.

Leg 4:

Donaghadee – Glenarm – CampbellTown – Tarbert – Port Bannatyne Bute – Largs – Troon

Leg 4 the Irish Donaghadee sea scouts

were on board and the “Chippie

Marathon” was about to get serious.

The week started off damp and dreary

as we sailed north to Glenarm. The

original plan of visiting Islay and Oban

changed due to the weather front north

of Ireland the decision was made to

take refuge in the calmer waters on the

eastern side of Mull of Kintyre.

We all enjoyed a morning well spent in

Campbelltown, practising rope throwing

and coiling, before venturing north to

Tarbert. Scotland did not disappoint, as

we past Arran, Goatfell broke through

the clouds. Putting their new boat

handling sail trimming skills into

practice we raced the other yachts up

the Kilbrannon Sound.

The sea scouts not content with the CD

selection on Thermo all chipped in to

buy the latest “Now 91” album. With

the sun beating and house music blaring

the scout leader Alvin had to seek

sanctuary below. Even Malcolm had a

boogie up on deck in his shades.

However this is Scotland and the weather wasn’t going to stay perfect. Looking to find somewhere

sheltered for lunch we decide to pick up a bouy off Port Bannatyne. One of the scouts cries

“Submarine!” amongst the chaos of flaking the main, losing a boat hook and making tomato and

basil pasta we get a glimpse of the submarine and pilot vessel.

Leg 5: Troon – Ardrishaig – Crinan Canal – Crinan –

Corpach – Neptunes Staircase – Caledonian Canal – Fort Augustus – Inverness

Leg 5 the week it not only rained but it poured (and Clive Fisher

was the only one sensible enough to pack an umbrella). The

Sunday evening was spent meeting the new crew and

celebrating Vikki Biggs 21st

Birthday.

We were stormbound in Troon Monday and Tuesday. To make

the most of the time we brushed up on our knots over a hot

chocolate in the pub and a private tour of the Troon RNLI

lifeboat and station.

After a breath-taking sail through the firth of Clyde past Arran,

we joined the Crinan Canal at Ardrishaig. The crew quickly had

to learn how to

tackle the locks. The

Crinan Canal has a

total of 15 Locks a

warm up for the

Caledonian. The best

quote of the day was

“what course should

I steer?”

Crinan was beautiful, even in the rain and

low visibility the marina and views were

stunning.

Neptune’s staircase the start of the

Caledonian Canal was upon us. A series of

eight consecutive locks, Thermopylae

gradually climbed the hillside to “classic

summer hits” and “Rule Britannia”. With

Ben Nevis looming in the distance, the

entourage of snap happy tourists watched

our every dance move.

As the canal quietened down, Alessio the

on-board Italian treated the crew to

homemade Tiramisu.

Funny how Skipper Clive could never find his coat or mug!

Leg 6: Inverness – Lossiemouth – Peterhead – Montrose – Arbroath – anchorage off

Tayport – Isle of May – Dunbar – Granton (Edinburgh)

Leg 6 we had reached

the East coast and over

half way through the

circumnavigation. With

the Thermopylae’s crew

made up entirely of

afterguard the week

became more focused

on boat handling and

navigational work. Not

forgetting the food. We

created the great

Scottish food homage

starting with homemade

sticky toffee pudding,

Arbroath smokies,

Tablet, Marmalade and

more.

The sheer volume of seals along this coast was phenomenal; Hundreds of them basking along the

sand banks along the river Tay. The beaches were remarkable with sweeping white sand dunes,

rusty red cliffs and the irregular volcanic outcrops inhabited by thousands of gannets.

We arrived in Granton where we caught the bus into Edinburgh and explored the festival soaking up

the atmosphere. We were lucky enough to get tickets to see the new “Wings by Rigolo”

performance at the circus tent. An awe-inspiring display of gymnastics, acrobatics and dance, similar

to Cirque du Soleil.

Leg 7: Granton – Isle of May – Dunbar – Holy Island – Amble – North Shields – Newcastle –

Hartlepool – Grimsby – Hull

Leaving Granton early Monday we headed east to the isle of May, where we rowed a shore and

watched the seals swimming. We were amazed by the Mediterranean weather. After a lazy lunch we

picked up anchor and sailed south to Dunbar, for another night outside Black Agnes’ castle and the

Kittiwakes.

We spent Wednesday in North Shields where we enjoyed a cholesterol heavy family meal out with

deep fried black pudding and goat’s cheese followed by creamy mushroom chicken and a trio of

deserts. We wandered up the Abbey and old Castle before venturing up the river Tyne listening to

Abba. As we approached Gateshead Millennium Bridge we joined Ocean Venture for a mini parade

of sail (another fellow training ship).

The rumours go that Hartlepool is where Malcolm Clipper joined the Discovery Sailing Project. After

a French ship crashed along the shore the only survivor was a monkey. Unable to speak English it

was accused of being French and then hung by the local fishermen. Hartlepool is not a safe place for

monkeys so Malcolm stayed below deck whilst in Harbour! To kill some time waiting for the high tide

we strolled over to the Hartlepool Maritime museum. Being mature adults we found the dressing up

box and proceeded to dress up in gowns, monk’s tabards and lederhosen, followed by the most

bizarre flash dance choreography.

Leg 8: Hull – Wells next the Sea – Lowestoft – anchorage River Ore – Fox’s Marina Ipswich

– Essex Marina Burnham on Crouch – Dover

Before starting leg 8 Hull to Dover, comments had been made “there is nowhere to stop” “it is a

boring stretch of coast”. I would like to point out neither of the comments were true. It has been the

most interesting week in navigational and boat handling terms.

Sand banks and bars were seen as the new challenge. The depth of water was key, testing our

secondary port calculations. Snaking our way up the river Ore and anchoring overnight was the start

of our tricky navigation.

Arriving at the channel entrance at Wells-

next –the –sea, we were soon greeted by the

harbour master, who guided us up the

elusive channel.

In Lowestoft Skipper Mark Fowler put

“sprongs” to the test before setting sail in

gale force 8.

Thermoplyae met the big boys at Felixstowe

keeping out of the main shipping channel,

with no tricky sand bars and banks life

seemed a little too easy so we expertly sailed the entire way up to Ipswich, practicing our passage

planning and boat trimming.

Amongst the wind farms and sand banks we were lucky enough to get a glimpse off the Clacton-on-

Sea air show, watching the red arrow drop there dyes and the MiG and Typhoon roar over us.

Unfortunately this is the week the Abba CD broke � no more dancing queen!

Leg 9: Dover – Dieppe – Fecamp – Honfleur – Cowes – Hamble

The final leg, after spending the day at the Dover regatta and watching the fireworks and sheet

lightning, the new crew from Milton Abbey School were all set to take on a week of sailing. Already

seasoned dinghy sailors, there was no messing about when it came to sail trim. After a variable

crossing of thunderstorms and light winds we arrived in Dieppe. Where we were able to dry off and

feast on croissants and pain au chocolates.

Our second port of call along the French coast was Fecamp. We all enjoyed the shore leave with its

chalk cliffs and Benedictine monastery. Finishing the day with a group dinner filled with endless

laughter as the banter flowed.

Honfleur was a fantastic excuse to mooch around the markets and to sit ordering café au laits. The

crew lazed and rowed about the marina fishing and gorging on crepes. After all their efforts they

finally caught a grey mullet, which we later devoured at dinner.

The last night sail of the circumnavigation was upon us. As we crossed the channel the

phosphorescence sparkled as we cut through the waves and the stars were out in all their glory. The

nine week voyage was coming to an end. As we approached the nab tower the sun was out and the

crew were all in high spirits. We enjoyed our final evening together as we ate Fish and Chips in

Cowes. Departing for Hamble the following morning.