MAY-JUN 2012MICA (P) 039/03/2012

Eco IssueTirol | South America | Sarawak

ISSUE 45Eco IssueTirol | South America | Sarawak

ISSUE 45

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CONTENTS

Sports and Travel is a publication of Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd (Singapore). All articles published are in good faith and based on bona fide information available to The Publisher at thetime of press. The Publisher accepts no responsibility other than that stipulated by law. The Publisher also accepts no responsibilty for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials.All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or full without the previous written permission of The Publisher. Neither can any part be stored or recorded,by any means. The opinions expressed in The Publication are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by The Publisher.

This publication and the name are owned solely by Lennox and Ooi Media Pte Ltd, 391B Orchard Road, #13-09 Ngee Ann City, Tower B, Singapore 239974. Email: enquiry@sportsandtravelonline.com.Sports + Travel Singapore is published bimonthly and distributed throughout Singapore. Trademarks and copyrights for all other products, logos and depictions contained herein are theproperties of their respective trademark and copyright owners.

All colour separation and printing by International Press Softcom Ltd.

Singapore MICA (P) 039/03/2012

For a list of our distribution outlets, visit www.sportsandtravelonline.com.

> FEATURES

Wild Encounters

Bako National Park

Magic in the Pacific

Fiji’s Pacific Harbor

River of Life

Okavango Delta

Giant Cousins

Gorillas in Rwanda

In the Mountains

Summer in Tirol

Small Wonder

Exploring Norway’s Flåm

Geo Wonder

Taiwan’s Northeast Coast

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> REGULARS

GEAR GUIDE

TRAVEL NEWS

TRAVEL TIPS

SHORT BREAK: BRUNEI

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Kawa Karpo Kora

Trekking Yunnan’s Sacred Peak

Rooftop of the World

Lhasa to Kathmandu

The Andean Strip

Chile, Bolivia and Peru Highlands

Calm Within the Chaos

Visiting Bagan

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Our TeamEditor-in-ChiefMay Lynn

WriterKonrad Clapp

Creative DirectorLynn Ooi

DesignerMarilyn Wong

General ManagerAaron Stewart

Media Rep

Green Bits

Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd391B Orchard Road, Ngee Ann City#13-09 Tower B, Singapore 239974Tel 6732 0325 / 6737 1236www.sportsandtravelonline.comsportsntravel@gmail.com

Sports and Travel LimitedRoom 1801 Wing Onn Central Building26 Des Veoux Road CentralHong Kong 261801Tel +852 2150 1965cng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Advertising SalesSingaporeAaron Stewart, Lennox & Ooi Mediaaaron.stewart@sportsandtravelonline.com

Hong KongChris Ngcng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

ContributorsAdrian Bottomley, Alvin Low, ClaraLock, James Cruikshank, Ken Berg,Pauline Tan, Tsalina Phang

OUR WEBSITE:www.sportsandtravelonline.com

OUR FACEBOOK PAGE:facebook.com/SportsandTravelSingapore

OUR BLOG:http://sportsandtravelsg.wordpress.com

Until then, Happy Trails!

Adventure QuestsShangrila AdventureWanGoDoand many, many others!

Special Thanks

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From recycling your cans to turning off your light when you’re not using it, goinggreen is something that’s not new to many of us. So when it comes to travel, youcan keep your green initiative by reducing your cabon footprint – whether it’s plantingtrees for your flight or tackling your entire trip with your own two feet or publictransport.

This issue, we’re featuring some green destinations with a spot of wildlife watching,including nearby Bako National Park with its vocal proboscis monkeys and other rainforestinhabitants, as well as the UluTemburong in Brunei for the chanceto traverse the world’s tallest treetopcanopy walk for glimpses of itsmagnificent birdlife.

Head to Okavango Delta which isfamed for its river that floods once ayear, drawing an incredible amountof wildlife to its shores. Take a makororide or a walking safari to help decreaseyour carbon footprint on your safari.Or head to Rwanda for gorilla trackingon foot in the mountains of VirungaNational Park where you can meetthese giants face to face. For a bit ofcultural ecotourism, Yunnan’scenturies’ old villages provide aglimpse into a life of bygone days,while a trip to the sprawling templesof Bagan will inspire your spiritualside.

If you prefer highlands, head to Tibetand tackle the Friendship Highwayon a bicycle as you traverse passes ashigh as 5,000m from Lhasa toKathmandu, dropping by plenty ofamazing Buddhist monasteries alongthe way. Further afield, the mountainsof Bolivia and Peru provide an amazing backdrop for their centuries’ old culture and architecturethat involve witches, sacrifices and the Incan Empire.

For some amazing landscape, visit Taiwan’s scenic Northeast Coast with its sculptural geologicalplayground or head to the Tirol region if you’re looking for some classic Alpine scenery.

If you’re hankering for more stories, do check out our blog!

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The best way to get around the park is viaits vast network of trails. While it is possibleto navigate these marked trails on your own,having a guide helps you spot the wildlifethat you may otherwise miss.

Most trails take under 3.5 hours to complete,except for Bukit Gondol (4.5 hrs), Telok Limau(7 hrs) and Telok Kruin (7.5 hrs). Some trailsfinish at secluded beaches or pass waterfallswhich are ideal for swimming.

GETTING THEREAccess to the park is by boat from BakoVillage (Kampung Bako), which is 45 minutesby bus from Kuching. Boats can be chartered

(5 passengers per boat) at the National ParksBoat Ticketing Counter next to the jetty, andthe boat ride from Kampung Bako to Bako'spark headquarter is about 30 minutes viathe scenic Santubong River.

The ride on the small boats is part of theBako experience, and you may be able tospot some saltwater crocodiles along theriverbanks. If the tide is high upon arrival,you will be deposited at a small jetty nearthe park headquarters, but if the tide is toolow, you will have to take your shoes off andwade to the jetty.

It is best to arrange with the boatman for

your return ride at the dock, although depar-ture is dependent on the tides (boats canget stuck in low tide).

There are also plenty of tour operators basedin Kuching that have organised trips to BakoNational Park, which include a guide, lunchand all transfers.

There are several accommodation optionsin the park, including hostel beds, lodges,chalets and campsites, which can be re-served via the forestry’s e-booking site.

For accommodation rates and park entryfees, visit www.sarawakforestry.com.

BAKO NATIONAL PARK

Sarawak's oldest national park, Bako wasgazetted in 1957 and covers an area of over2 hectares on the tip of the Muara Tebaspeninsula. Even though it is one of the smallestnational parks in Sarawak, Bako National Parkis the best place to view an incredible varietyof plant species, as well as its native wildlife.

At just 37km from the state capital of Kuching,the park encompasses rainforest, junglestreams and waterfalls, secluded beaches,rock formations and hilly viewpoints. 03

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WILD ENCOUNTERSAs the oldest park in Sarawak, Bako is alsoone of the best places for wildlife experiencessince animals here are less wary of humans.The best times for wildlife viewing are justafter dawn or just before dusk, when theanimals are most active. Moving about thepark solo or in small groups will offer youbetter chances of spotting the wildlife.

MonkeysProbably the most visible wildlife within Bakowould be the monkeys, as the park is hometo long-tailed macaques, silver langurs, aswell as proboscis monkeys.

The macaques are common here, and caneasily be seen near the park headquartersand the nearby accommodations. Likemacaques in the rest of Southeast Asia, theyare fearless and will raid dustbins and un-guarded bags.

In contrast, the silver langur (or silver-leafmonkey) are docile and are more arborealthan the macaques. Adult langurs have silver-grey fur and a spiky crest of head hair, whilethe infants are born with bright orange fur.

However, the star primate of Bako is definitelythe rare proboscis monkey. Found only inBorneo, the male possesses a large pendu-lous nose (which grows bigger with age) anda large pot-belly. Bako is home to about 300of these primates, which are mostly arborealand move about in small family troupes,feeding on young leaves, shoots, fruits andseeds.

The best trails for viewing them are TelokDelima and Telok Paku, as well as the man-groves at Telok Assam. Finding one mayrequire patience – just listen out for gruntsand rustling leaves – and luck. Some of theyounger members of the troupe are a bitmore bold and might try to spray visitorsbelow with urine.

Bearded PigAnother regular fixture at Bako are the Bor-nean Bearded Pigs, which are the park's

largest mammal. As the name suggests,these pigs sport prominent bristles on eithersides of their snouts. As they are scavengers,they can normally be found near the park'sheadquarters, scavenging for food or wal-lowing in mud.

ReptilesSnakes feature prominently at the park, andmost of them are harmless, save for thegreen-coloured, arboreal Wagler's Pit Viper,which is distinguishable by its broad, flatand triangular head. When moving about thepark, try to avoid straying from the trails, asthese snakes are often found resting on thelower branches of trees.

Other prominent snakes include the GrassGreen Whip Snake, easily recognised by itsbright green colour, pencil-thin body andlong snout, and the Paradise Tree Snake,with its black upper body that is markedwith green spots, and a yellow-green under-belly with red spots.

Another common reptile at the park is theolive-coloured Common Water Monitor,which can reach lengths of 2m. These strongswimmers can be seen scavenging alongthe beaches or mangroves, while flying lizardscan sometimes be seen launching them-selves between trees.

Other WildlifeWhen night falls, those overnighting at thepark can catch Bako's nocturnal creatureslike the flying lemur, pangolin, mouse deer,tarsier, slow loris and palm civet. Sometimes,there are nighttime sightseeing hikes organ-ised by the park staff.

FLORABako is home to almost every type of vege-tation found in Sarawak, and these includethe carnivorous pitcher plants.

There are 7 distinct ecosystems here, rangingfrom beach vegetation to heath forest andpeat swamp forest. The park's network oftrails takes you through these different envi-ronments.

PARK TRAILSBako has a network of trails that allows youto explore different aspects of the park. Thereare officially 16 colour-coded jungle trailswith a range of hiking options. Radiatingfrom the park headquarters, the hikes areover some pretty rugged terrain, some withlots of exposed roots and vegetation.

For proboscis spotting, the relatively flatTelok Paku trail (800m, 1 hr) offers one ofthe best opportunities to see the primates,and it finishes at a small secluded beachthat's near a proboscis colony. The circular

Lintang trail (5.25km,3.5 hrs) – and a shortdetour up BukitTambi – takes youthrough the park'srange of vegetation inhalf a day. This trail ismost popular forthose with only a dayat the park, and offersgood opportunitiesfor spotting proboscismonkeys.

jung Sapi trail (500m,30 mins) is a shortclimb through thick

vegetation, affording views of Telok Assam,as well as opportunities to spot proboscismonkeys amongst the trees.

In contrast, the much longer 7 hour (5.75km)Telok Limau trail passes through rich rain-forest, scrub land and swamp forest, as wellas a number of hilly sections (with excellentviews of the entire peninsula) and smallstreams. Only physically fit or experiencedtrekkers should attempt this trail, and candone as a day-hike (you can arrange for aboatman to pick you up at Limau beach) oras a 2-day overnight camp at Limau beach.

You can also negotiate with the boatmen totake you to the nearby Pulau Lakei, whichis a small island with a white sand beach.The highest point (accessible via a 160-stepwooden ladder) is the grave of a legendaryMalay warrior who was credited for carvingcalligraphy on the rocks at the nearby Sala-mun Pool with his bare fingers. The Pa’Amittrail (1km, 30 min) leads to 2 viewpoints forgreat vistas of Mt Santubong.

The Tajor trail (2.75km, 2.5 hrs) takes youthrough a varied terrain, including exposedhilltops with expansive views, scrub andpadang vegetation, before ending with asteep descent to a small beach. The trailpasses the small Tajor Waterfall, which hasa small dip pool that is safe for swimming.

To see the park's famous sea-eroded sea-stacks, the Telok Pandan Kecil and TelokPandan Besar trails are the park's mostpopular. The Telok Pandan Kecil trail ascendsto the forested hills and a sandy path linedwith carnivorous pitcher plants before reach-ing a clifftop with stunning views of thesecluded bay below and the famous seast-acks just offshore. A 10-minute descentbrings you to one of the best beaches in thepark. The Telok Pandan Besar trail ends ata clifftop overlooking the beach below.

TanjungSapi

TelukPandanKecil

TelukPandanBesar

TelukLimau

PULAULAKEI

TelukPaku

BAKO NATIONAL PARK

Lintang

PARK HQ

For more on Bako National Park andSarawak, visit www.sarawaktourism.com

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GEAR GUIDE

RAD RIDEThese funky PG E-bikes electric bicycles not only go longerdistances then conventional electric bicycles effortlessly, theiremission-free motors are made by Clean Mobile in Munich, soyou can ride with a clean conscience. Handmade in Germany,the BlackBlock series’ Dark Cruiser is built with a 48 Volt Hybridmotor that gives you a 25km/h speed, with a range of up to200km. The Lithium Ion battery has a minimum of 1,500 loadcycles, and takes 30 minutes to charge at 80%, and 3 hours for100%. The frame is guaranteed for 15 years (4 years for themotor), and is available at The Big Country at S$8,986.

PG BikesDark Cruiser

TAKE A LOAD OFFColumbia's Crescent Peak is a 23-litre daypack that is ideal for hotweather hikes. The Backdraft backpanel features directional foam con-duits that allow hot air to rise and bereplaced with cooler air, while its nat-urally antimicrobial and odour-resistantTechlite straps are made with breath-able mesh inserts, which are strongbut lightweight and accompanied withcushioning for comfort. The waterproofOmni-Shield material keeps the packdry even in sudden showers, keepingit lighter than conventional packs.Available at all Columbia shops andselected World of Sports at S$159.

SMALL SHOTPanasonic's 14.1 megapixel Lumix TZ30 isa compact cam that captures crisp imagesand high speed HD movie recording. Its 20xOptical Zoom and 24mm Ultra Wide AngleLeica lens allows you to take photos of almostany scenery or small space easily. Its highsensitivity MOS Sensor with noise reductionfunction captures good photos in dim light,aided by the Optical Image Stabilizer to sup-press blurriness. For travellers, its GPS systemlets you geo tag images to show the placesyou've been to. Available throughout Singa-pore, with an RRP of S$549.

FIT FOR FEETThe Superfeet GREEN has been a pop-ular insole for over 30 years, and isdesigned primarily for footwear with aremovable insole. Superfeet's Encap-sulating Stabilizer System (ESS) helpssupport and stabilise the feet, makingshoes fit better so you can avoid un-necessary discomfort or pain. The pat-ented stabiliser cap and foam full lengthcreates a deep heel cup to cradle thefeet's fat pad for improved natural shockabsorption. It is recommended for peo-ple with medium to high arched feetseeking maximum support for a varietyof activities. Now available at Campers'Corner, retailing from S$55-S$60.

SuperfeetInsole

ColumbiaCrescent Peak

FIT FOR ALLConstructed with heavy duty waterproofTPU film laminate fabric, the PatagoniaBlack Hole Duffel is made for keepingyour gear dry in wet conditions. The maincompartment comes with 2 zipperedinternal mesh pockets to keep thingsseparated and a padded foam bottom toprotect your contents. Carry with thehandle or with removable padded shoul-der straps. Two haul handles on the sidemakes it easy to grab-and-go, while the4 corner-mounted webbing daisy chainsfacilitate hauling and tying down bigloads. The 45L duffel is now available atOutdoor Life at S$168.

PatagoniaBlack Hole

PanasonicTZ30

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WALKING COMPANIONThe new Hi-Tec Sierra Lite I WP hikingboot was designed to give you adequatesupport when carrying a moderate loadwhen hiking. The design incorporates alower heel-to-toe ratio, bringing the heelcloser to the trail for a more light-footed,natural feel and stride by mimicking thenatural position of the foot so you canhave a greater feel of the ground underfoot.The boot also features ion-mask technol-ogy waterproofing, Vibram rubber solesfor superior grip, as well as OrthoLiteinsoles that provide cushioning, breatha-bility and microbial function. The SierraLite I WP is available at World of Outdoorsand selected World of Sports at S$299.

Hi-TecSierra Lite I WP

TOUGH SHOTContour specialises in hands-free videocameras designed for adventurers, makingaction videos easy to shoot and share. TheContour+ features the largest lens to createa Full HD 1,080 pixel video, while the 170ºwide-angle rotating lens delivers high qual-ity images with minimal fish-eye distortion.It also features GPS recording that speedilytracks speed, location and elevation, withmicroSD card storage for up to 32GB ofvideo. It’s built with a burly, water-resistantaluminium shell that takes a beating wheth-er you're in raging storms or muddy tracks.There is also a separate waterproof caseshould you wish to take it up to 60m. Thereare a wide variety of mounts for the Con-tour+, including those for your helmet andmountain bike. The Contour+ is availableat The Big Country at S$995.

Contour+

ThuleRolling Upright casew/Race Pack

TOUGH CHICThe new Crossover collection bySwedish brand Thule is designed tomeet the needs of outdoor enthusiastswith a touch of chic. The sturdy alu-minium hardware is covered with wa-ter-resistant fabric, while the heat-moulded crush-proof SafeZone com-partment (which is lockable) is idealfor keeping your fragile gear. A stable,straight roll is aided by the V-Tubingexoskeleton and tough, oversizedwheels. The 60L Rolling Upright casefeatures a detachable Race Pack thathas enough capacity for daily essen-tials, and is available at The PlanetTraveller, retailing at S$589.

SUN-POWEREDThe mPowerpad is a multi-fuctional solardevice that is easy to use with its in-builtaccelerometer. You can store ample powerto charge your electronic devices - likemobile phones and tablets - on the go. Itstough water, dust, and shock resistantcasing makes it an ideal outdoor compan-ion, as it also comes with a built-in readinglight, flash light, radio and even high fre-quency insect repellent. The mPowerpadcomes with 7 adaptors for various USBcharging, with a wall charger sold sepa-rately. Now available at Adventure21 at$179.90 and $199.90 (with charger).

SNUG AS A BUGThe Marmot Flashpoint is a Po-lartec Classic Microfleece jacketthat balances warmth and minimalbulk. The flattering cut for the fe-male form makes it ideal as anouterwear for cool weather, whileits snug fit means it's a good insu-lating mid-layer in winter. The windflap behind the zipper with chinguard blocks incoming wind andcold, while the microfleece offersexcellent moisture management.The Lycra cuffs come with integrat-ed thumb holes, while the zipperedhandwarmer pockets help keepyour mitts warm in cold weather.Now available at Campers' Cornerat S$99.

Situated at the far eastern end of the long chainof volcanic islands stretching across the Pacificfrom Indonesia to PNG and beyond, Fiji's a densecluster of 333 islands spread over colourful reefsand cobalt blue waters.

Fiji is coined the 'Soft Coral Capital of the World',and it attracts many divers who come to exploreits waters. Most of its famous dive sites arescattered throughout its 300+ islands, which makesit only logistically possible via internal flights andliveaboards. But, those with limited time can justvisit Viti Levu, where you can experience the mostof Fiji, from traditional villages and varied culturesto cool mountains and excellent dive sites.

FIJI'SPACIFICHARBOUR

VITI LEVUMost of the population live on the 2 mainislands – Viti Levu and Vanua Levu – whilethe rest remain as nature reserves. Home tothe capital Suva, and the majority of thepopulation, the main island of Viti Levu isFiji's financial and transport hub.

Cut through by a chain of central mountains,and stretching north-south through the mid-dle of the island, the east coast enjoys sub-stantial rains, the west falls in the mountains'rain shadow, making things comparativelydrier.

The island can be divided into 4 regions fortravellers: Rakiraki to the north, Nadi to thewest, as well as the Coral Coast and PacificHarbour to the south.

While many divers prefer the secluded divespots in Fiji s far flung islands, Viti Levu isconvenient for that one-stop destination,where you can pack in as much diving,culture, whitewater rafting, kayaking andsurfing as time allows.

PACIFIC HARBOURLocated on the southern coast of Viti Levuand right next to the tropical lushness of theCoral Coast, is the upmarket developmentof Pacific Harbour, with its flawless lawns,wide streets and ordered rivers.

World-class diving can be had in nearbyBeqa Lagoon – including wreck dives, coraldives, and pelagic fish dives – just offshoreto the south, while swimming is a popularactivity at Deuba beach. Shark fanatics fromacross the globe come to Pacific Harbour'sBeqa Lagoon particularly for its exhilaratingShark Feeding sessions.

Diving with SharksThe Shark Reef Marine Reserve is Fiji's firstshark sanctuary, situated a few kilometresoff the coast from Pacific Harbour in theBeqa Passage.

The area is home to an abundant range ofmarine life including hundreds of species offish, and at least 8 types of sharks, includingbull sharks, gray, white and black tip reefsharks, lemon sharks, nurse sharks, theoccasional tiger and oceanic white tip shark.Numerous bull sharks up to 3m are on mostdives, along with nearly 300 species of fishlike giant travellies, humphead wrasse, redbass, surgeon fish, triggerfish, cod, grouperand bait fish.

Unique as one of the few places in Fiji (orthe world), the reserve is where you can diveas part of a large-scale, ecologically respon-sible shark feeding, in cooperation with thelocal villages of Galoa and Wainiyabia – thetraditional rights-holders of the local reefs.

As part of a large-scale, ecologically respon-sible shark feeding, dive masters are fromthe local villages and the Shark Marine Re-serve fee is put directly in the villages' com-munity chests; in return, they protect thereefs instead of fishing from it.

The Shark Encounter in Beqa Lagoon iswhere divers can experience the adrenalinerush of diving with 8 species of sharks upclose at a depth of about 24m. Divers arenot in a cage; they rest on the reef just a

within touching distancefrom the guides whofeed chunks of fish topassing sharks.

Soft Coral DivingFiji is often known todivers as the 'Soft CoralCapital of the World',and just offshore fromPacific Harbour lies theBeqa Lagoon, one ofFiji's best known divesites and Viti Levu'sbest. There are morethan 20 excellent divesites within a 10-20minute boat ride fromPacific Harbour,including soft coralbommies, pinnacles,fringing reefs and 4purpose-sunk wrecks.

Some of the world classsoft coral sites hereinclude Caesar's Rocks(pinnacles covered with

a profusion of soft coral and fans, andteeming with small exotic fish life), NisiciRocks (pinnacles of soft coral and reef fishincluding the elusive Blue Ribbon Eel) andSide Streets (small pinnacles smothered in

rich dark red and purple soft coralthat occupy a reef passagecreating the surreal feeling ofwalking between large buildings).

Other favourite dive sites includeJoes Best (a large pinnacle witha giant swim through covered insoft corals, where Blue RibbonEels can be found), Carpet Cove(site of a 30m-deep wreckcovered in soft corals, withbarracuda and leaf scorpion fishfound here), Million Dollar Point(a shallow 16m dive with intenselycolourful corals), Frogs Leap (aneasy dive site with large platecorals and large fish) and TurtleHead (soft coral pinnacles with a variety offish from small exotics to large cods).

GETTING THEREThere are currently no direct flights intoNavi International Airport, but the mostconvenient transfer is via Australia (anumber of carriers can take you there).Pacific Harbour is a 2-hour drive fromNadi International Airport and 40 minutesfrom Suva).

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Fiji

WINDING WATERWAYSWith its headwater starting in neighbouringAngola's highlands, the river flows throughNamibia before entering Botswana, whereit is called the Okavango. Without the delta,this area of Botswana would have otherwisebeen a dry Kalahari savanna.

The unique feature of this river is that it takesalmost 9 months for the water to reach thebottom from the source due to the lack ofelevation. By the time it reaches the Kalahari,over 95% of its water would haveevaporated.

The delta's floods start from Angolan rains(October to April), which cross over toBotswana and Namibia by December,

reaching the bottom end of the delta (atMaun) sometime in July. During the flooding,the areas surrounding the delta will begin todry out, driving the wildlife to congregate atthe edge of the newly flooded areas betweenMay and October.

RIVER SAFARIWaterways are the heart of the Okavangodelta, and you can explore them by mokoro– a dug out canoe guided by a native guidewho steers and navigates with a long pole,similar to a gondolier in Venice.

These canoes were once made fromhollowed out tree trunks trees, but todaythey are made from fiberglass for a sturdier,and more eco-friendly ride.

It may feel wobbly at first, but once yousettle into the ride, you’ll be able to appreciatethe vast plains that stretch out in alldirections. Recline into the mokoro and youmight even find yourself drifting off to sleep,lulled by the gentle swaying of the swampywater.

As you bob downstream, peer beyond thereeds that surround your canoe and youmight spot some impressive game –elephants trumpeting in the distance, andherds of bathing hippos are a common sightalong the riverbank. Other common animalsfound in this area include the lechwe (a typeof antelope), zebras as well as impressivewading birds like storks, ibises and egrets.

TEXT BYClara Lock

A byword in African safari, the OkavangoDelta is one of the world's largest inlandwater systems that supports anextraordinary diversity of wildlife. Thislabyrinth of lagoons, lakes and hiddenchannels is trapped in the parchedKalahari desert, making it a magnet forthe wildlife that depend on its permanentsupply of water.

When the delta floods from the rains,the area can expand to over17,000sq.km., and large numbers ofwildlife start to congregate on the edgeof the newly flooded areas.

OKAVANGO DELTA

CAMPING TRAILSSpend a couple of nights in the Botswanaplains for an authentic bush experience. TheMoremi Game Reserve, which is the mainNational Park in the area, sits on the MopaneTongue – a dry piece of land that juts intothe delta.

If you want to experience the call of the wildwhile reveling in creature comforts, shackup in luxury resorts located within the reserve,which feature wooden huts and hot showersamidst lush greenery. 

Want to get down and dirty without breakingyour back? Embark on a mobile campingtrip through the reserve, where your tentswill be set up for you so you can crash aftera long day in the bush without worryingabout tent pegs and guy lines. 

GAME ENOUGH?One of the best ways to view big game ison a walking safari, which will be led by anindigenous guide. For those looking for areal back-to-nature experience, trekkingthrough the delta provides a far more

authentic experience than riding in the backof a four-wheeled drive. With no putteringengine to herald your arrival, you’ll blend into the grassy environment much better,increasing your chances of spotting somewildlife.

But it’s no Sunday stroll – you are a visitorinto this land, which is ruled by the predatorsthat govern the ecosystem. Should youencounter a pack of hyenas or lions, trustthat your guide, who has grown up living offthe land, will be able to lead you out of harm’sway. Surprisingly it is the herbivorous hipposthat pose the biggest threat to humans -they can easily outrun you and crush yourskull with their powerful jaws. If you see any,admire them from afar, but give them a wideberth! 

Keep your wits about you as you follow yourguide, who will navigate a path for your groupusing the trails and droppings of animals tolead you to a sighting. Your guide, who willhave a much keener eye than any city slicker,will be able to point out animals from afarthat are camouflaged in the tall grass. If

you’re lucky, you’ll also get upclose to animals that are skittishand used to scampering awayfrom crowds of humans andvehicles, like a herd of impalaor zebra.

If the grasslands are a bit toountamed for comfort, do yourwildlife tracking from the backof a safari vehicle. BorderingMoremi is the Chobe NationalPark, where you can watchdramatic migrations of buffalo,zebra and wildebeest. Or waitfor sundown to go on a nightsafari, which give you the bestchance of spotting predators like lions andcheetah.

VISITING THE DELTAThe best time to visit the delta is during thedry season (May to October), which seeslittle rainfall during the day and cool nightsthat are comfortable for sleeping out in atent.

GETTING INMost of the safari camps in theOkavango delta can only be reachedby air, on small charter aircrafts fromMaun, which is the tourism capitalof Botswana. If you’ve booked atour with any of the safaricompanies, the flight from Maunshould be included in your package.

Domestic airline Air Botswana willfly you from South African capitalJohannesburg (from where there areplenty of international connections)to Maun.

© Raymond Wong

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Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com)

Their Economy fares include Hong Kong fr S$534 and Maldives

fr S$533, with GV2 Promos fares to Perth start fr S$361, Bandar

Seri Begawan fr S$381 and Ho Chi Minh fr S$254.

Qantas (qantas.com)

Their Australia specials include fares to Perth fr S$256, Mel-

bourne and Brisbane fr S$510, and promos to New Zealand

(Christchurch, Wellington, Auckland, Queenstown) fr S$710.

Finnair (www.finnair.com)

Post NATAS Special fares include Madrid, Rome, Prague,

Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris and Zurich fr S$639, Helsinki fr

S$637 and Germany (Munich, Berlin, Frankfurt) fr S$640.

Japan Airlines (www.sg.jal.com)

JAL’s USA Special Promotion has fares to Honolulu fr S$644,

LA fr S$650, San Francisco fr S$649, New York fr S$956,

Chicago fr S$956, and Vancouver fr S$650.

Silkair (www.silkair.com)

SilkAir has promo fares to Darwin from S$570, Siem Reap from

S$344, Xiamen from S$570 and Yangon from S$345, all tax

inclusive and valid for booking by 23 May.

In a bid to boost visitor arrivals, Myanmar has launched a

new Visa On Arrival scheme for all nationalities visiting the

country on Myanmar Airways via their 2 flights from

Guangzhou (8M 712) and SiemReap/Phnom Penh (8M 402)

to Yangon. Two passport-sized photos and proof of sufficient

funds (at least USD300 per person) are required, along with

a tourist visa fee of USD30. Talks are ongoing with travel

agencies that should see the country follow with tourist

VOAs for ASEAN passport holders in the near future.

Myanmar’s VOA

BATTLE OF THE SKIESSometime about now till the end of May is technically

the 'low' and 'shoulder' season for travel, with airlines

offering deep discounts on fares. This is a great time

to travel as there will be less crowds than in June-

September when it's peak (school holiday) season,

and flights and accommodation aren't full of noisy kids.

Low Season Specials

THE ACCIDENTAL TOURISTAny hospitalisation overseas or in Singapore thatis serious enough to land you in the Intensive CareUnit (”ICU”) is going to cost you a pretty penny.

A backpacker was motorbiking around NorthernThailand when a van ahead of him stoppedabruptly, forcing him to slam on the brakes. Butthe combination of potholed roads and suddenbraking was too much for the rickety bike, whichskidded and flung him a short distance away.

He spent 48 hours unconscious in the ICU andanother two weeks recovering from the after effectsof his concussion. The total cost of his ordeal?Thousands of dollars!

While travel insurance won't buy you back lostvacation time, with adequate insurance coverage,if you were in his situation, you won’t be wiped outby financial woes and can focus on recovering.

Failure to ConnectUnfortunately, we all know flight delays are all toocommon. And it's made worse when you've got tocatch a connection.

A Singaporean was recently traveling to Uzbekistan,via Kuala Lumpur, but his flight from Singapore toKuala Lumpur was being delayed. As a result, hemissed his connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur toUzbekistan.

To make things complicated, his next availableflight to Uzbekistan was 1 day later, so he had nochoice but to spend a night near the airport. Thecost for his hotel reservation would easily be S$400.With adequate insurance coverage, if you were inhis situation, your out-of-pocket expense could bemuch lower.

Going Somewhere?Holidays are meant to be fun and worry-free. The lastthing you want to think of is accidents or a delayedflight. TravellerShield from DBS helps you do justthat – the confidence to discover more on your travels.

From now till 30 June 2012, enjoy special holidaydeals of up to 20% premium discount and a free gift*when you buy TravellerShield.

Buy online at www.dbs.com/sg/travellershield or via theTravellerShield iPhone app now.

Travel anecdotes have been compiled from Sports and Travel’s network of contributors.

* Promotional premium discount and any gift is applicable to new applications only and is not valid with other TravellerShield promotions, discounts, offers, vouchers, rebates or privileges. Gift for Single Trip Plan isgiven provided the nett policy premium is S$60 or more after the 20% premium discount. Promotion terms and conditions apply.

TravellerShield is underwritten by MSIG Insurance (Singapore) Pte. Ltd. (”MSIG Insurance”) and distributed by DBS Bank Ltd. This is not a contract of insurance. Full details of the terms, conditions and exclusionsof this insurance are provided in the TravellerShield Policy and will be sent to you upon acceptance of your application by MSIG Insurance. This policy is protected under the Policy Owners’ Protection Scheme whichis administered by the Singapore Deposit Insurance Corporation (SDIC). Coverage for your policy is automatic and no further action is required from you. For more information on the types of benefits that are coveredunder the scheme as well as the limits of coverage, where applicable, please contact MSIG Insurance or visit the General Insurance Association or SDIC websites (www.gia.org.sg or www.sdic.org.sg).

Not just another day at the beachAccidents happen even when doing the most innocuous activities.

Three tourists were recently riding a banana boat in Kenting, Taiwan. Asthey were returning to shore, the jet ski operator was supposed to catcha wave and gently tip them into shallower waters. But he mistimed thewaves and turned too fast, prematurely ejecting the trio who flew about tenmetres away and landed hard on the sand.

Damage included one broken arm, one injured neck and three bruisedegos. While the banana boat operator volunteered to fully reimburse theirmedical bill, don’t count on all companies being similarly magnanimous.

These three travellers never expected to get stuck in no man’s land orwind up in the emergency room, but misadventures have a way of creepingup on you. We show you how travel insurance can come in handy whenyou least expect it:

No news isn't always good news. Justbecause you don't hear about travel mishapsand accidents, doesn't mean they're notgoing to potentially happen to you.

And what happens then? If you've gotadequate insurance, you're covered againstthe worst. But if you don't, then you mightbe in for a tough trip.

If the travel agency goes bankrupt and causes your trip to becancelled, we'll cover you for up to S$10,000.

You're covered for up to S$500,000 in overseas medical or hospitalexpenses in case of accidental injury or unexpected illness.

Emergency medical assistance and evacuation of up toS$1,000,000 worldwide.

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some benefits of travellershield are...

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GORILLAS IN RWANDA

GORILLA FACTSClosely linked by DNA, gorillas are the largestof the four species of great apes that are theclosest living relatives of humans ñ the otherthree are chimpanzees, bonobos andorangutans. Great apes are different frommonkeys for a variety of reasons: they arelarger, walk upright for a longer period oftime, donít have tails and have much larger,more developed brains.

Gorillas typically live in a family group of 6to 12 members led by the dominant malesilverback. Although strong and powerful,gorillas are generally gentle and shy. Manypeople may not be aware that gorillas are infact largely herbivores that feed on a diet ofshoots, roots, vines, fruit and leaves andoccasionally insects. Gorillas spend most ofthe day foraging to feed their massive body.

MOUNTAIN GORILLAMost gorillas live in inaccessible regions invarious dense forests in tropical Africa, andone subspecies – the mountain gorilla – wasnot even known to science until 1902.

The misty mountain forests of the VirungaMassif and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest incentral Africa are the last outposts of theseendangered mountain gorilla, which numberfewer than 800 and are listed as criticallyendangered in the IUCN Red List.

Gorillas are threatened by habitat loss dueto increasing human populations, poachingfor the bushmeat trade and diseases likeebola. Living in higher elevations, mountaingorillas are also affected by climate change,which has the potential to impact gorillasdirectly by altering their habitat, and indirectly

by affecting agriculture yields in nearbycommunities, which in turn puts morepressure on remaining habitat.

CONSERVATION EFFORTSConservation efforts revolve around mainlycommunity-based management to providethe local communities with education andalternative means of livelihood to not onlyprotect the gorillas, but aid in increasing thepopulation.

These programmes are mostly funded andsupported by tourism, and include expansionof areas of national park to protect thehabitat, development of infrastructures toprovide for the tourists, training of guidesand national park staff, all contributing tothe employment and education of the localcommunities of the conservation needs.

Gorillas conjure up the image of ferociousteeth-bearing, chest-beating, loomingkillers. Towering at 2m in height, weighing200kg with an arm span of 2.3m, andbeing very rare and elusive, it is no wonderthat people have wrapped a layer ofmystery over these creatures or shall wesay, “our giant cousins”.

TEXT BY Pauline TanPHOTO BY Andrew Yeo& Mylene Koh.

GORILLA TRACKING IN RWANDARwanda, which shares the Virunga Massifwith Uganda and Democratic Republic ofCongo, has spared no effort in promotingthe conservation of its gorilla populationthrough tourism.

Parc National des Volcans, where the gorillatracking takes place, is well known for itsspectacular views of the undulating volca-noes of Mount Karisimbi, Bisoke, Sabyinyo,Gahinga and Muhabura. Within this denseforest, seven gorilla groups have been habit-uated to human visitors and so there is a99% likelihood of coming face-to-face with

these gentle giants and watching them eat,groom and play.

Nothing can prepare anyone for the impactof encountering a troop of gorillas, or thesheer presence of an adult male silverback,which can grow to three times the size of anaverage man.

Doing the TrekTo get to the park, it is a mere 2 hours drivealong a scenic route from Rwanda’s capital,Kigali. Along the route, you can easily seewhy Rwanda is also known as the "Land ofa Thousand Hills".

Gorilla tracking can bedone all year round inRwanda, but it is bestto avoid the rainyseason betweenMarch to May. As thetrekking involvesbashing throughdense forest under-growth at a fairly highaltitude of between1,700m to over2,000m above sealevel, it is best to bewell-equipped andphysically fit to ensurethe proper enjoymentof this lifetime expe-rience.

Trekking amongst the moun-tain gorillas of Rwanda is aheartwarming and memorablewildlife experience of a lifetime,but to ensure their continuedsurvival and to minimise theimpact of tourists on the go-rillas, the authorities have astrict quota on the number oftrekking permits issued in aday and the viewing time islimited to one hour.

Non-flash photography ispermissible but a safe distanceof 7m must be maintained tominimise possible transmis-sion of human diseases.However, it is not uncommonthat the gorillas will actually seek out thevisitors to become new playmates.

15

Rwan

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GETTING THEREThere are no direct flights to Rwanda, andthe most convenient way is to fly to Nairobi(Kenya) via Bangkok, and from there, takea local connection to Kigali airport.

Adventure Quests organises a 9-Day GorillaTracking (with a safari in Kenya) trip fromKigali, with scheduled trips on 21-29 July.For more, visit www.adventure-quests.com.

ST. ANTON AM ARLBERGSt. Anton am Arlberg is a holiday destinationwith two equally charming personalities. It’sa winter ski resort widely regarded by enthu-siasts as world class. And when powderyski slopes yield to the warm thaw of summer,they reveal the backdrop for a host of outdooractivities.

Alpine HikeSummer brings with it the promise of lushfoliage and fresh country air. You could takea chair lift to the top of any summit and haveyour breath stolen by the view, but make theascent on your own and you’ll get to see somuch more.

Nature lovers can embark on an alpine flower

hike to uncover species of flora that do notgrow in the valley, only above an altitude of2,000 metres. If you’re lucky, you may evenspot a marmot (large ground squirrels thatlive in mountainous areas) emerging from aburrow, or Austria’s famous edelweiss.

Most hiking trails are easy, and require littlemore than reasonable fitness and a goodpair of shoes. Walking paths - all 300km ofthem in total - are clearly marked, with infor-mation on the destination and route, estimat-ed time, and difficulty level.

Guides are on hand for those who want tocover serious distances, but if you just wanta pleasant half-day walk, there are manyspots amidst the St. Anton countryside where

you can stop for a picnic lunch before head-ing back to the village.

If you’re more comfortable on two wheels,there are trails specially designed for bikers.You can rent a bike from St. Anton Villageand brave the mountain passes on a daytrip, or rent a hut for an overnight stay in theshady woods.

ParaglidingSince it’s summer, you can soar through theskies on a paragliding flight. Catch a bird’seye view of the Alps and surrounding coun-tries Germany, Switzerland and Italy as youfly tandem with an experienced instructor.Several companies in and around St. Antonoffer flights.

Tirol sits at the heart of Europe, andwhile the region broadly stretches acrossseveral borders, it's centred on Austria,with the historic city of Innsbruck as itscapital.

People from all over the world are at-tracted to Tirol‘s impressive peaks andpicturesque valleys, its rugged heightsand rolling pastures. Tirol’s mountainshave something for everyone, whetherit’s a leisurely flower trek in the gentleheat of summer, or a colossal, stomach-dropping ski descent.

Tirol is also rich in cultural heritage, asreflected in the region’s various muse-ums and architecture, as well as itscenturies-old traditions.

INNSBRUCKThough mountain passes and high altitudescharacterise the natural landscape, the city ofInnsbruck oozes a classic European charmwith its cobblestone streets, medieval architec-ture and street-side cafes that are set againsta magnificent backdrop of snow-capped moun-tains. While many visitors come for its culturalofferings, its outdoor attractions are what keepadventurers in the mountains.

Innsbruck is the only city in the world to havehosted the Winter Olympics three times (1964,1976 and YOG 2012), making it a top-classsnowsports destination. However, come sum-mer, these hills are also ideal for hiking, as wellas downhill mountain biking.

This city is also the ideal place to explore therest of Tirol, with its rail, air and bus connections.

SUMMER IN TIROLTEXT BYClara Lock

St. AntonInnsbruck

Ötztal

KITZBÜHELKitzbühel began as a sleepy medieval townnestled in the Alps in western Austria. Today,it is a hotspot in the summer for cyclists,hikers, runners, as well as holidaymakerswho simply want to enjoy this breathtakinglybeautiful alpine town.

Hit the TrailsWith more than 1,000km of perfectly main-tained trails, hiking is undoubtedly the fa-vourite summer activity in Kitzbühel. Guidedtours led by experienced hiking guides andrangers are offered free of charge in summer.

Start the day early by catching a cable carup the mountains and be rewarded with aglorious sunrise in the Alps, then explore theregion’s flower-filled meadows, rolling hillsand panoramic mountain ranges. The Kitz-bühel mountains are also home to wildlifelike red deer, chamois and marmots.

One of the most popular hiking trails is the

one leading to the Sintersbacher Waterfallsin Jochberg. Gushing from a height of 165m,it is arguably the most spectacular in thealpine region, particularly during the springsnowmelt from April to June.

Legendary CyclingKitzbühel is also perfect for cyclists and hasplayed host to major international cyclingraces for decades.

Road racers have 14 courses spanning morethan 1,000km to choose from. The scenicstreet leading up to the Kitzbühel Horn isAustria’s steepest cycling road and one ofthe most challenging climbs in professionalcycling, making it a legendary classic amongroad cyclists everywhere.

Mountain bikers too are spoilt for choice,with some 800km of rugged paths and trailsto explore. Many of these trails run alongside

rivers and creeks, and can be enjoyed bycyclists of all ages. Popular routes includethe breathtaking loop around Pillersee Lake,as well as the scenic Bichlach region, withits idyllic ponds and traditional farms.

Other ActivitiesThose who prefer to relax can head toSchwarzsee Lake, one of the warmest andmost beautiful moor lakes in the Alps. Itsrich mud content gives the waters healingproperties, making it a popular destinationfor swimmers and sunbathers.

Other summer activities in Kitzbühel includerock climbing, rafting, canyoning and parag-liding. Visitors can also look out for excitingevents such as the Kitzbühel Alpine Rally,starting on 30 May, which will see celebritiesand racing legends such as Michael Schu-macher take to the roads in some of thefinest classic cars.

ÖTZTALThe 65km-long alpine valley of Ötztal islocated in the Austrian state of Tirol, with250 mountain peaks lining up alongside eachother, stretching as far as the eye can see.Together they form the alpine valley that theAche River runs through.

Hiking in the GreenThe Ötztal Nature Park is the region's largestprotected area at the rear end of the valley.Hikers and mountaineers can experiencethe diversity of four different climates in thespan of a few hours.

Start at the rocky and boulder-filled montanezone, where frost-resistant coniferous spe-cies reside, before you ascend into the sub-alpine zone about 1,700m above the ground.Apart from the hardy and ubiquitous SwissPine, you can also spy blueberries and cran-berries growing in the wild.

Climb a little higher into the alpine zone,where tree cover gives way to rocks and

shrubbery which are suited to grow in per-manently wet ground. Where the snow landsand collects during winter determines theflora that will grow in summer, so peer intonooks and crannies to spot a new species.

As you head further up the mountains, you’llreach the nival zone, located at 3,000mabove sea level. Despite the harsh and un-forgiving climate, over a hundred species offlowers grow here, most notably the glacierbuttercup, which is adapted to such condi-tions.

Rocks and bouldersYou can sign up for a canyoning adventure,where you descend steeply-angled cleftsset in a steep-sided valley, abseil down awaterfall, navigate your way down to a rockyriver bed and make your way back to thevalley, by way of the river.

Great white waterWhile taking a break from climbing, hikers

and climbers can experiencethe refreshing water spray ofthe mighty Stuiben Falls, Ti-rol's biggest waterfall nearUmhausen, as it cascadesdown some 159m.

If you’re keen for some watersports, splash through Ötztal’sraging rivers in an inflatableraft. The Imster Schluchtgorge, with up to Grade IIIrapids, is one of Europe’s mosthighly-frequented whitewaterrafting areas.

A more peaceful place to enjoythe valley's clean mountainwaters is lake Piburger See, a paradise forswimmers and rowers. Colours range fromdeep blue to emerald green - reflecting sun-shine and clouds, shadow and light as wellas the overwhelming beauty of the Ötztalmountain peaks.

17

Tiro

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Kitzbühel

GETTING TO TIROLWhile Innsbruck’s international airportis the largest in Tirol, you can also getto the region easily from Munich Airport.Tirol’s excellent air, rail and road con-nections makes travelling across thismountainous region a breeze.

As a special highlight, the Orient Expressfrom London to Venice stops twice inSt Anton and Innsbruck.

For more on Tirol, visit www.tyrol.com.

If you're looking for ascenic holiday with aconservation element,then Australia's PenguinProtection and CoastalConservation might beyour thing.

The tour takes you alongthe spectacular GreatOcean Road, where you'llspend the day assistingwith local conservationprojects like tree planting. Along theway, you'll get to visit the famous Twelve Apostlesand the Loch Ard Gorge for some of Australia's mostbreathtaking coastal views.

Then you'll get to Phillip Island, where you can stop over at the KoalaConservation Centre and visit Churchill Island’s Heritage Farm beforeexperiencing the Penguin Parade in the evening, where you'll get to seethese cute little penguins come ashore after a day's fishing.

The next day is when you'll get to experience life as a ranger on the island,where you'll get to assist in activities aimed at protecting the local penguinand wildlife population.

Starting and ending in Melbourne, this 5-day tour is one of the best waysto experience 2 of Victoria's best natural attractions.

AUSTRALIA

MELBOURNE

Great OceanRoad Phillip Island

GETTING THERESTA Travel is an Aussie travel specialist that’s accredited byTourism Australia. The 5-day Penguin Protection and CoastalConservation tour starts from US$1,037 per person, excludingairfare. STA Travel can help you book your flights along withthe tour.

FOR MORE INFO, LOG ON TO:www.statravel.com.sg/tours-and-treks.htm

fb.com/STATravel.sg

OR CALL 6737 7188 / 6773 9188

© Visit Flam / Photographer: R. M. Sørensen

Completed in 1909, the Bergen Railway isNorthern Europe's highest stretch of railway,connecting Oslo to Bergen on a 500km-longline that cuts through a spectacularly variedNorwegian landscape, starting from opencountryside and wooded valleys, to wildmountain plateaus and of course, the fjordsof Western Norway.

Starting from the capital of Oslo, the ridecalls in at several towns along the way,including the picture-perfect village of Flåm,which encapsulates the best Norway has tooffer in terms of natural and pastoral scenery.

FLÅM RAILWAYHalfway along the Bergen Railway at Myrdal,the journey breaks with the transfer of trainsto the Flåm Railway, which takes you downfrom 866m to Flåm on the valley floor.

A masterpiece of engineering, the Flåm Rail-way (completed in 1944) is the steepestnormal gauge railway in Northern Europethat took 20 years to build, as 18 of the line's20 tunnels were dug by hand.

The first tunnel along the route is a hairpintunnel which makes a 180º turn inside themountain in order to manage the steep gra-dient. You can see these tunnels from theoutside as the train descends into the valley.

Scheduled StopsThe first stop is Vatnahalsen, a popular rest-stop for hikers and cyclists along the Navvies'Road. The area offers beautiful walking andskiing in summer and winter.

There is also a short stop at the 94m-highKjosfossen waterfall, a magnificent sightmade more interesting with a 5-minute danceperformance which tells the legend of Huldre,a lady dressed in blue who entices youngmen to marry (and fall in love with) her inorder for her to shed her cow tail.

Navvies’ RoadAlong the way, you will also be able to seepart of the Navvies' Road that zig zags downthe mountain through 21 sharp bends.

Named for the workers who used it duringthe railway construction, the 84km-longNavvies' Road is now is one of Norway'sbest cycling experiences that takes you fromthe roof of the country right down to thefjord. The terrain is vastly varied, rangingfrom gradual climbs to steep descents pastthundering waterfalls, valleys, cottages andwild countryside.

The section after Kjosfossen is the steepestsection of the Navvies', and cyclists arerequired to change into a new set of brakeson just one descent.

LandscapeThe 20km-long train ride takes roughly anhour to the village of Flåm via the ruggedand scenic Flåm valley, with its shifting pan-orama of mountain farms clinging onto sheerslopes, rivers cutting into deep ravines andwaterfalls cascading down the snow-cappedmountains. In spring, the meltwater from themountains cascade into the valley via hun-dreds of waterfalls.

In the valley, you can see goats grazing inthe open grassland and on the hillsides. Flåmis famous for its goat's cheese, which iscaramel-coloured and creamier than whitecheese, as well as dried goat meats.

Further down, the Flåmsvela river – whichis popular for salmon and trout fishing – cutsthrough the old village of Flåm before reach-ing the fjord. Surrounded by steep mountains,the valley is dotted with plentiful fruit trees.

The train pulls into its terminus station atFlåm, which is right next to the ferry pier.This is where you’ll catch the next leg ofyour journey – by ferry – to Gudvangen.

However, Flåm is worth at least an overnightstop, where you can explore the fjord andits villages.

One of the easiest ways to see all thebest that Norway has to offer – fromits countless waterfalls to breathtakingfjords, picturesque countryside andmountainous landscape – is to take ajourney that combines the best of thecountry's railway routes.

Part of 'Norway in a Nutshell', thejourney includes a scenic train ride onthe Bergen Railway and the FlåmRailway.

EXPLORINGNORWAY’S FLÅM

© Visit Flam / Photographer: R. M. Sørensen

© Visit Flam / Photographer: Morten Rakke

FLÅMFlåm is located at the innermost point of theAurlandsfjord, which is part of the largerSognefjord (one of the world's longest anddeepest). With a number of hotels and guesthouses, it is a great base to explore thefjords and mountains in the area.

Exploring the FjordsYou can arrange for a variety of activities,including a fjord tour on board a speedingRIB boat. It’s the easiest way to get to thefarming village of Undredal where you cansample some local goat's cheese and driedcuts. Along the way, you can see hundredsof waterfalls and some small villages thatcling onto the sides of the mountains.

As an alternative, you can also hire kayaksto explore the fjord.

Mountain BikingYou can also hire a mountain bike from thevisitor's centre and explore the flat valleysand its farms.

For more adventure, you can tackle thelegendary Navvies' Road; take the bike onthe train to Vatnahalsen and cycle down the21 hairpin bends alongside a thunderingwaterfall. The distance is 17km from Vatna-halsen back to Flåm, and the brakes on therental bikes are changed after each descent.

HikingHiking is another popular all-season activity,and a favourite trail is one to the Brekkefos-sen waterfall, which takes about 2 hoursreturn. There are also hiking possibilitiesalong the Navvies' Road (take the train toVatnahalsen and follow the trail down), aswell as to Vidme farm (600m) and Gudme-dalen (800m), which offers pleasant viewsof the mountain plateau.

Cultural WalksYou can take an easy walk to the 17th centuryFlåm Church (6km/1.5 hours) – a famouslandmark in the valley as it’s the only blackchurch – along a gravel road.

Another point of interest in Flåm is the clusterof 26 traditional colourful wooden buildings(with Norway's signature turf roofs) at Ot-ternes. Tucked at the edge of a hill, this 12thcentury farm is now a museum, with impres-sive hillside views over the Aurlandsfjord.

BEYOND FLÅMFrom Flåm’s, you can hop on a ferry thattakes you through Norway's classic fjord-lands, including the UNESCO-listed Naerøy-fjord. At only 250m wide at its narrowest, itis surrounded by 1,660m-high mountains.After 2 hours, you’ll reach Gudvangen, whereyou can catch the bus and continue alongthe ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ route.

PRACTICALITIESThe Norway in a Nutshell tour canbe done year round. Summer isalways packed with crowds, but theup side is that all shops, attractionsand accommodation are guaranteedto open.

In May, you might be able to packin a few days of skiing at Geilo andwhitewater rafting near Voss.

For more on Flåm and its railway,visit www.visitflam.com.

Taiwan has been shaped by complextectonic movement, resulting in thecountry's very unique geology. TheNortheast Coast Scenic Area encapsu-lates this incredible diversity of land-forms within a small area, and is in facta miniature projection of the country.

Starting from the Sandiaojiao, the coast-al landform has been sculpted by theelements into odd shaped rocks. Furthersouth, Bitou Cape features sea cliffsand undercut bluffs, while LongdongCape's steep sandstone cliffs give wayto wave-eroded platforms and tofu rocklandforms at Beiguan. In between, thereis a 3km stretch of golden beach be-tween Yanliao and Fulong.

For more on the Northeast Coast ScenicArea, visit www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw.

GOLDEN FULONG ROUTEThere are several ways to enjoy this scenicarea: you can travel by car along the coast,cycle the same road by bicycle, or exploreit from the water on board a sea kayak.Another alternative is to take the local bus- known as the Golden Fulong Route - thatstops at places of interest along the way.

The bus links Fulong Visitor Center andRuifang Railway Station, stopping at popularspots like Jiufen, Longdong and Bitou alongthe way. Tickets are available on the bus,and frequency is between 30-60 minutes.

FULONGLocated within a gorge that is cut by theShuangsi River, Fulong is characterised byrippling layers of terraced fields and riverterraces. From Taipei, most visitors take thebus or train to Fulong Train Station, whichwas opened in 1924 during the Japanesecolonial period. The journey is dotted withspectacular valleys and vestiges of the miningindustry.

Fulong is known for its classic beach setting,and the golden sands at Fulong extends forabout 3km from Yenliao. This stretch of soft,fine white sand makes it popular for swim-mers, surfers and beachgoers. The beachitself is separated from the mainland, andyou can access it via a bridge.

Another popular activity here is cycling. Youcan rent a bike from rental stores near thevisitor's centre. From the Fulong Train Station,you can ride through the historic Old CaolingTunnel Bikeway which takes you to the eastcoast with a nice view of Gueishan (TurtleIsland) just offshore.

The 2.16km section of the disused railwaytunnel takes 15 minutes to cycle through,and you can ride back to Fulong via theextended bikeway along the coastal highwayafter the tunnel's southern exit.

The gentle slopes and curves take you pasta plethora of hotspots, including Lailai MarineTerrace’s spectacular geological formations,Sandiaojiao with its lighthouse that was builtby the Japanese in 1935, and Mao'ao Vil-lage’s centuries' old stone cottages.

Alternatively, you can take a coastal hikealong the 8.7km Caoling Historic Trail (builtin 1807), which takes you through thickwoodland and past the elaborately-carvedTiangong Temple before ending at the grassyheadland with views over the coast and itssloping 'tofu rocks' that fall dramatically intothe pounding surf.

After the 3-4 hour hike, you can refuel withthe popular Fulong bento box lunch, availablenear the railway station.

Bitou CapeLongdong

TAIPEI

YILAN

Fulong

TAIWANNORTHEAST

MAP OFTAIWAN

Eastern Sea

CaolingBikepath

Jiufen

Ruifang

TAIWAN’S NORTHEAST COAST

Fulong Sand Sculpture Art FestivalEvery year at the Fulong Sand SculptureArt Festival, teams from all over theworld compete to build the largest andmost elaborate displays of sand artpossible, sculpting intricate yet mam-moth statues of goddesses and drag-ons, some stretching to 30m long and25m wide.

Of the 44 works by 35 internationalartists from as far as Canada and Latvia,this year’s winner was from Singapore,who created a sculpture of Chinesegeneral Guan Yu. Happening annuallyfrom May till June, the displays are opento the public until the 24th of June. Formore on events along the coast, visitevents.necoast-nsa.gov.tw.

PHOTOS FROMTaiwan VisitorsAssociation

TTB-AD

LONGDONGFamous for its gorgeous sun-soaked sand-stone cliffs, Longdong is Taiwan's premierdestination for sea cliff rock climbing, andis arguably one of the best spots in theworld. Over 600 routes criss-cross their waythroughout the cliff faces that are about 30mhigh, providing enough challenge to anyonefrom beginners to pros. There are easy 5.4climbs suitable for first-timers, as well asfiercely overhanging 5.14 testpieces toughenough to challenge some top sport climb-ers. Climbers will be rewarded with excellentviews over Bitou Cape, Sandiao Cape andAodi Bay.

The cliff faces aren't the only attraction atLongdong. Head to the bay - which looks

like a coiling dragon with a hole(hence its name 'Dragon'sCave') - for a spot of swimming,snorkelling and even diving.There are also professionalcoaches here who can teachyou skin diving (free diving).

Diving at Longdong can be atad cold, but the clear under-water terrain houses a lot ofnudibranchs and cowries, aswell as porcupine fish, leaf fishand scorpionfish. The prizedsighting is of the rare Weedyscorpionfish. Divers access thedive site from Longdong Bay,where you walk over rocks to the entry andexit point. Dive trips (and lessons) can bearranged at any of the PADI dive operatorsat Longdong.

On the Wedding Route (5.8), Music Hall, Long Dong © Matt Robertson

BITOU CAPEOne of the 3 capes along the north coast, BitouCape is noted for its beautiful sea-eroded cliffsand fantastic coastal views. The undulatingBitou Cape Trail takes you to different aspectsof the area, passing dramatic coastal cliffs andgeological formations as old as 60 million years.

The sea-eroded platforms here are more fullydeveloped than anywhere else in Taiwan, andfeature an odd collection of rock formations,with shapes like mushrooms and honeycombsdotted with marine fossils.

The footpath ends at Bitou Cape Lighthouse(built in 1896), which sits at 120m above sealevel on the edge of the cliff, affording splendidvistas of the area.

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WHALE WATCHINGTaiwan's eastern coast attracts a number ofmigrating whale species, ranging from KillerWhales to the smaller False Killer Whales,alongside the large bump-headed SpermWhales and Humpback Whales, with theirribbed and dotted underbellies.

Sharing the waters are a number of dolphinspecies like Bottlenose, Common, Pantropi-cal Spotted, Risso's and Spinner dolphins,which tend to spin like ballerinas as theyleap in the air.

Whale ToursWhile there are around 4 areas along theeast coast where you can take whale watch-ing tours, Yilan is the nearest port to Taipei.

At Wushih Harbor alone, there are over 10whale-watching companies that providetours to the nearby Gueishan (Turtle Island)that lies just offshore. Gueishan is Taiwan'sonly active undersea volcano (with a seabedof over 110ºC), and this oceanic hot spring'ssulfur-rich waters provide an abundant foodsource for the whale and dolphin population.

On any given whale-watching trip, pods ofdolphins often shadow boats and there is ahigher chance of seeing whales breachingor playing in the waters just offshore fromGueishan between March and October.

In addition to whale watching, some compa-nies combine activities like rafting and squid-fishing to the experience. As Wushih Harbor

is now a fishery centre, you can enjoy freshseafood from the local waters after a whale-watching excursion.

Trips are possible when Gueishan is opento the public from March to November, beforeclosing during the northeast monsoon. As itis a fragile and protected area, landings arerestricted by permit (400 on weekdays and500 on weekends). Most boat companiesprovide 2-3 cruises a day, lasting 2-3 hourseach trip.

Those interested will need to book the trip3 weeks prior to arrival to guarantee spotson the boats.

For more, visit www.whalewatching.org.tw.

JIUFENJiufen was a prosperous gold mining townuntil the 1950s when it went into declinewhen mining was discontinued. However,thanks to its location on a mountainside withstunning views of the Pacific Ocean, thishistoric town was revived as a location forseveral Taiwanese movies.

Today, Jiufen exudes old-world charm, whichyou can experience by taking a walk throughits narrow lanes, or trying tea at its manytraditional teahouses (complete with steam-ing iron kettles and fragrant bundles of tea).The main area of interest is its historic com-mercial district which can be covered onfoot along the 2 pedestrian streets that runup and down the hill.

RUIFANG RAILWAY STATIONThe old-fashioned Ruifang Railway Stationhas been the link from this small town to theoutside world since it was completed in 1919during the Japanese colonial period. Youcan explore the subway which is reminiscentof the town's heyday as a mining town.

GETTING THEREThe Northeast Coast Scenic Area is easilyaccessible from Taipei by car, bus or train.There are train stations at both Fulong andRuifang, which are accessible from Taipei inaround an hour. From either of these stations,you can hop on the Golden Fulong Routebus that takes you along the northeast coast.

For more on the Golden Fulong Route, visitwww.gold-fulong.com.tw. For more on Tai-wan, visit www.taiwan.net.tw.

People who follow this theory feel that the extrapadding on traditional running shoes encouragesrunners to heel strike, which throws your body’snatural mechanics off.

With “barefoot” or minimalist shoes you are morelikely to strike in either the middle of your foot oryour forefoot to allow you to use your ankles andknees to absorb the impact. Traditional shoes haveapproximately 10-13mm of drop from the heel to theforefoot, true minimalist shoes have 0mm. Minimalistshoes are also very flexible and will build strength inyour feet and still have some padding to protect yourfeet from debris on the ground.

Natural running sounds simple but if you are usedto regular running shoes, barefoot running will takesome getting used to. Here are some tips:

• Start slow and build. Begin by running approxi-mately 10% of your usual distance in minimalistshoes. You will be using different muscles and if yourun your normal distance you will pay for it in thelong run (pun intended).

• Find minimalist shoes that you can use wear forall your everyday activities. However, as with running,start slow and build.

• Run with a high cadence. If you take short quickstrides, you’ll be more likely to land mid foot asopposed to long slow strides which tend to encourageheel striking. The ideal cadence is 180 strides perminute; play songs of 180 beats per minute on youriPod to help you keep the pace.

• Consider transition shoes like the Nike Free. Theystill have a decent amount of padding and come ina variety of drop off from 7mm to 3mm.

• Take your time. Estimates take anywhere from 6

months to a year to transition to minimalist shoes.

• If you feel any pain in your feet, stop. In fact, carrya pair of your traditional shoes on your first few runs. 

Where can you find minimalist shoes?Everywhere. It seems that every footwear brand hasminimalist shoes. Try on your current favourite brandof shoes and see how they fit. Vibram Five Fingersseem to be the most popular, but if you want thesame general design without the look and feel of atoe sock you could also try Merrell’s “Barefoot”collection.

So should you start natural running?If you are already running regularly and are happyand injury-free, then perhaps you don’t need tochange. If you’re having injury issues, natural runningmay be part of the solution. Regardless, the mainthing is finding something that allows you to staymotivated and have fun. However it is recommendedthat you consult with a medical professional before-hand especially if you have a history of injury.

Ken grew up on thedoorstep of theCanadian wilderness,backpacking, pad-dling and rock climb-ing in this ruggedland. Armed with a

degree in recreational studies, he hasbeen working at Canada's premier out-door retailer for over 10 years, puttinggear to the test whether it's cycling in-35ºC winters, running marathons ortravelling to the far reaches of the planet.

GEAR GUY: Ken BergNatural running (or barefoot running) hasbeen the biggest movement to hit runningand the outdoor industry in years but whatis it really all about and is it for you?

Every year, thousands of hardy and devoutTibetans arrive to circumambulate the reveredpeak in one of the region’s most sacredpilgrimages. To trek in unison with the wild-looking nomads in their quest to purify alifetime of negative karma, is one of Asia’sepic mountain adventures.

The topographic extremes along the kora(Tibetan pilgrimage) are immense. Within astretch of less than 10 kms, the land risesfrom 1,800m along the Mekong River valleyto 6,740m at the summit of Kawa Karpo.

Environmentally, this untouched part of Chinaalso has a wide variety of spectacular land-scapes with the trekking route winding itsway through sub-tropical scrub, arid can-yons, moss-laden forests, alpine meadowsand snow-capped peaks.

TACKLING THE KORAGetting to the start of the trek is a stunningjourney in itself. Driving for most part of aday, the road crosses over high mountainpasses with huge vistas over the Eastern

Himalayas. Laid back Tibetan villages suchas Benzilan and the beautifully muraledDongzhuling Monastery, offer a number ofintriguing options to break up the journey asthe road heads further off the beaten track.

Spending the night in Fei Lai Si rewards youwith the most spectacular views of KawaKarpo and its triangular female counterpart,Miancimu, especially on a clear dawn whentheir jagged ridges catch the amber glow ofearly morning rays.

TREKKING YUNNAN'SSACRED PEAK

TEXT AND PHOTOS BYAdrian Bottomley

Straddling the border between Yunnan and Tibet sits one of the Buddhist world’smost holy mountains; Kawa Karpo or “white pillar” in Tibetan. Worshipped asa deity, it has never been climbed and remains a remnant and icon of the ancientbon religion – an animistic tradition based on the concept of a world pervadedby good and evil spirits that inhabit forests, rivers and mountains.

THE TREKEmbarking on the challenging 12-day trekfirst involves a visit to the Zhizingtang mon-astery to collect the symbolic “key” to thekora. It’s here that Tibetan pilgrims seekspiritual inspiration and prepare mindfullyfor their epic journey.

The first section of more than 180km in thedays ahead begins with the crossing of anold chain bridge over the Mekong Riverbefore ascending through a picturesquevalley to the village of Yongzi.

From here the goal for the next two days isthe first of 6 high altitude passes at DokarLa. The path winds up through primordialforests with lichen hanging from the brancheslike old party streamers, while the mind startsto settle, mesmerised by the hypnotic ringingof the caravan pony bells.

The first of the great passes, Dokar La(4,479m) offers incredible views of the sur-rounding peaks. It is colourfully draped withthousands of fluttering prayer flags andcovered with offerings of zhaba flour andyak butter. The kora is dotted with many

sacred sites, including springs where pilgrimsstop to collect water to take home for theirfamilies, as well as small shrines where furtherofferings of clothes, food and money are leftto be used when retracing the route in theirnext life.

Arriving in the pretty village of Abing, downin the Salween River valley, the scenerysuddenly becomes more barren and remainsstrikingly arid and dotted with cacti, as thetrek ascends once again towards the isolatedTibetan village of Gebu. Magnificent viewsof snowy peaks slowly replace the huge pinetrees. The introspection that comes frommeandering through lichen forests is even-tually lifted by enormous blue skies.

Ahead lies the mighty red and grey Sholapass (4,800m) beckoning both pilgrims andtrekkers with its other-worldly beauty. Inancient times,this was thebiggest test ofwillpower fortraders trans-porting tea

along this ancient trade routeinto Tibet and India.

The revered shrine at the topis piled high with offerings ofclothes and bamboo walkingsticks. The haunting, highaltitude pass is not a place tolinger for too long before youhave to descend to the mostscenic campsite on the koraat Zhaxi pasture.

With Shola in the rear, the korais nearing its end. The finalday is spent hiking pastgrazing yaks, crystal clearstreams and immense forest,before the trail finally terminates at the mainroad.

GETTING THEREHong Kong-based adventure-travel operators Whistling Arrow regularly run the KawaKarpo Kora trip (19 days total) with the next scheduled departure from June 6 – 24,coinciding with the largest horse festival in the region on June 23. Beginning and endingin Shangri-la, Northern Yunnan is accessible via Kunming (where the trip starts) with directflights from Singapore. For more, visit www.whistlingarrow.com.

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Cycling tours are gaining popularityaround the region in recent years, es-pecially to destinations like Cambodia,Vietnam and Laos, as well as to lessdeveloped areas like Tibet, Yunnan andwestern Sichuan. If you're looking foran epic ride with high altitudes and theworld's longest downhill, then a ridealong the Friendship Highway shouldtop your list.

From the ancient Buddhist monasteriesto inspiring views of Mt Everest, a jour-ney along the Friendship Highway thatlinks Lhasa to Kathmandu is quite pos-sibly a life-changing journey. This high-way to the 'Rooftop of the World' beginsin Lhasa at 3,650m, traversing 1,100kmover 5 panoramic passes exceeding4,500m before finishing in the fertileKathmandu Valley.

If this sounds breathtaking, the highlandweather and geographical characteristicswill certainly take you through your paces,but if you want to immerse yourself in Tibetanculture against the backdrop of the stunningHimalayas, then this is your best option.

The Friendship Highway is a popular cyclingand overland route across one of the mostwell-travelled borders between the two coun-tries, taking you from the highland plateauof Tibet in China to the valleys of Nepal.

LHASAThe Friendship Highway starts from Lhasa,where you can spend a couple of days ac-climatising by visiting some monasteries inthis sacred city. The 13-storey Potala Palaceis the dominant structure in the city, and hascommanding views of the Lhasa valley. Dat-

ing back to the 7th century, this BuddhistPalace comprises over 1,000 rooms andcontains thousands of shrines and statues,taking about 3 hours to tour the palace.

Other sites in and around Lhasa includeNorbulingka (the former summer palace ofthe 14th Dalai Lama), Drepung monastery(famous for its scholarly monks) and Gandenmonastery which is set in a natural amphi-theatre with spectacular views.

LHASA TO SHIGATSEFrom Lhasa, the southern route takes youtowards Shigatse via the beautiful YamdrokTso lake with views of Karo La Glacier. Aftercrossing the Tsangpo Bridge, the route as-cends to the Khamba La, climbing steeplyfor about 1,200m.

From the pass, enjoy the outstanding viewsof Yamdrok Tso and Kula Kangri (7,550m)before descending towards the lake pastprayer flags that adorn the pass.

More spectacular scenery – from dramaticmountains to white glaciers – is to be hadon the ascent to Karo La (5,010m) beforeenjoying lots of downhill rides towardsGyantse.

Gyantse has a large Tibetan population, andits architectural heritage is left largely un-scathed from the rampant Chinese develop-ment in the area. You can visit the sprawlingPalcho Monastery (with its elaborate pago-das, dagobas and thangkas) and the OldQuarter before setting off towards Shigatse(3,900m), the biggest town in the traditionalcapital of Tsang.

LHASA TO KATHMANDU

TEXT AND PHOTOS BYShangrila Adventures

RONGBUK TO KATHMANDUFrom Everest Base Camp, the road descendsto the valley of Tashi-Zong and the smalltown of Tingri (4,340m). From here, the dustytrack turns into a paved road that brings youto Gutsuo which is a short distance to thefinal high pass of the Friendship Highway -the Tong La.

After traversing some lung-busting passes(at 4,950m and 5,200m), the road starts to

drop along one of the world's longest andmost exhilarating downhill rides, descendingsome 3,000m from the Tibetan plateau tothe valleys of Kathmandu.

From here, the lushness of Nepal opens upas you descend further downhill to Zangmu(2,300m) and Kodari (1,170m), where theChinese immigration post is located. Oncepassports are cleared, you can cross the50m-long Friendship Bridge that spans a

deep ravine separating Tibet and Nepal. Inthe middle of the bridge is a military post -past that is Nepal.

The journey continues along the Sun Kosiriver (where you can try bungy-jumping)which takes you to Dhulikhel before hittingthe final stop of the trip: Kathmandu. Youcan ride around the Kathmandu Valley riminto Nala and the ancient city of Bhaktapur,and enjoy the bustle of Kathmandu city.

GETTING THEREThe best season for riding the Friendship Highway is April to October (bestmonth is September), with temperatures ranging from 0º to 15ºC dependingon altitude and weather conditions.

If cycling it the entire way, the route takes about 26 days to complete, so addinga vehicle support 60% of the way means compressing the trip to just 14manageable days, and trips can be arranged via local outfitter ShangrilaAdventure (www.shangrila-adventure.com).

SHIGATSE TO RONGBUKThe traditional seat of the Panchen Lama,the 600 year old city of Shigatse housesdozens of monasteries, including theresplendent Tashihunpo Monastery (builtin 1447) with its golden roof and brightred walls.

From Shigatse, the vast and stark Tibetanplateau is spread out along the routebefore as you ride up to the Tso La pass(4,599m) for a long 9km descent. Thenext pass is the Gyatso La, which at5,250m, is the highest pass along theFriendship Highway and is decoratedwith a monument of prayer flags.

After Xegar, the tarmac road of theFriendship Highway gets dustier and

steeper and the landscape looks moreEraw and wind-beaten. From the windyPang La (5,200m) pass, you'll get a mo-ment to enjoy the sweeping views of Mt.Everest and the Himalayan chain.

From here, the road descends into Rong-buk Valley, where you can visit the fa-mous Rongbuk Monastery.

Founded in 1902 and sitting at 5,150m,this is the highest temple in the worldand is home to practising monks andnuns. There is a large chorten embeddedin its terraced structure here, which dra-matically marks this last human dwellingplace before heading up the stark valleytowards Everest Base Camp.

A short hike from this 5-tier buildingleads you to the Rongbuk GlacierZone, which is fed by Mt. Everestand is the largest glacial areaaround, although it is melting at arapid rate due to global climatechange.

Monastery is the Everest BaseCamp (5,200m), which is thehighlight of the trip.

can enjoy views of the north faceof Mt Everest (8,850m) in its fullglory on a clear day. 29

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TEXT BY Tsalina PhangPHOTOS BY WanGoDo Travel

HIGHLANDS OF CHILE,BOLIVIA AND PERU

San Pedro de AtacamaThe adobe brown San Pedro de Atacama,about 1,500km north of Santiago near theborder with Bolivia, is considered the arche-ological capital of Chile. Native ruins andrelics of pre-Columbian cultures are the drawhere, as well as activities like sandboardingand stargazing.

Nearby, the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)has been carved by floods, wind and time,creating an otherworldly moonscape of ridgesand rock formations dotted with old Chileansalt mines and huts. You can sit on the edgeof this 'crater' and bask in the golden glowof sunset.

El TatioHead to the El Tatio geyser field for spectac-ular sunrise the next morning. The largestgeyser field in the Southern Hemisphere, ithas over 80 steaming active geysers; youcan actually boil your breakfast eggs andluxuriate in the natural rock pools here.

From dazzling panoramas to entertaining festivals and steam-ing geysers, a trip to the Andean highlands of Chile, Boliviaand Peru will literally take your breath away. Starting fromthe stark flatlands of northern Chile, the route takes you northtowards the colourful highlands in Bolivia before reachingPeru and its cultural gems at Cusco and Machu Picchu.

CHILE

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CuscoA direct flight from La Paz takes you toCusco, which was sacred to the Incas andthe centre of the Incan Empire. Ruins arestrewn across this region, ranging from beau-tiful experimental agricultural fields and work-ing ceremonial baths to mighty strongholdsand temples.

These can easily be navigable by privatetransport, on foot and on horseback. For anin-depth knowledge of these sites, anEnglish-speaking guide can explain theirsignificance and history.

More community-based activities includeexploring towns famous for their fortune-telling witches, bread-making and cuy (guineapig), where you can sample this PeruvianAndean delicacy.

Sacred ValleySacred Valley is renowned in the region forits outstanding local produce. Visit an organicfarm to learn about organic farming tech-niques, pick fruits and enjoy dinner sourcedfrom the garden.

There are several community-based activitiesyou can engage in here. At an authenticweaving house in the town of Chinchero,you can interact with the Quecha women tolearn about the traditional weaving processand the use of organic dyes; an ancientprocess that still survives today with theassistance of several NGOs.

The community of Chichubamba run shortworkshops where you can learn their skillsin chocolate-making, bee-keeping andchicha (traditional corn-based beer) brewing.

Uyuni Salt PlainsA 4WD ride will take you towards Bolivia,crossing the high antiplano at 4,900m. Atthis point, guides will advise you to chew oncoca leaves, which is a local antidote foraltitude sickness, as well as to promotestamina. The strong grassy-tasting leavescan also be infused as tea.

In this harsh, seemingly inhospitable envi-ronment of acridity, unrelenting sun and bittercold nights, you will find an abundance ofwildlife and colourful panoramas.

The twin lakes of the emerald Laguna Verde(surrounded by grazing alpaca and vicuña)and the blazing pink Laguna Colorada (punc-tuated by graceful flamingoes) are incrediblyphotogenic.

Then you pass the aptly-named Mountainof 7 Colours, with its Dali-esque rock forma-

tions, before reaching Uyuni, the largest saltplain in the world.

Spanning 10,582sq.kms. and said to contain10 billion tonnes of salt, the bright whitestarkness of Salar de Uyuni stretches outand disappears into the horizon.

La PazAn overnight bus ride takes you to the work-ing silver mines of Potosi, and offers a sadglimpse into the tough working life of thelocals. Token donations of provisions andcoca leaves are encouraged here.

While Bolivia’s capital is Sucre, it’s biggestcity La Paz is the de facto seat of governmentand the highest “capital” in the world(3,600m). The city's buildings and streetscling to a steep side of a huge natural bowlthat is backed by the snow-capped Andes.You can take a walk throughout the steep

streets and watch the locals go about theirdaily lives, peruse Calle Sagarnaga for col-ourful souvenirs and explore the Mercadode Hechiceria (Witches Market) to have yourpick of talismans. The ubiquitous dried llamafetus allegedly brings luck when buried inthe foundations of a newly built house.

GETTING THERELocally-based adventure travel outfitter WanGoDoTravel organises regular trips to South America,including to Bolivia and Peru. For early bird specials,vist www.wangodo.com.

BOLIVIA

PERU

Machu PicchuProbably the most famous landmark in Peruis Machu Picchu, which is draped in a spec-tacular location high in the mountains amidstswirling clouds.

Untouched by the outside world until it wasrevealed in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, thissacred site is dotted with temples which arealigned to the stars and the movement ofthe earth. Visit the 3 primary structures –Hitching Post of the Sun, Temple of the Sunand Room of Three Windows – and hike tothe Inca bridge that clings to the sheer cliff-face, hinting at the audacity of the ancientIncan builders.

The most common hiking route up to MachuPicchu is the legendary Inca Trail. This stren-uous 4-day hike normally needs an advance

booking of 5 months during peak season.

Entrance is limited to 500 visitors per day,and the trail is closed every February for trailmaintenance.

The alternative route to Machu Picchu is a2-day hike through the Lares Valley, whichis surrounded by peaceful mountains, grassylandscapes, reflective waterholes and grazingalpacas. As you hike through the valley, youwill cross bubbling brooks and interact withlocal farmers and villagers.

The hike ends at the natural hot spring siteof Lares, whereyou can get a re-warding soak.From here,transfer to thepanoramic train to

Aguas Calientes, which is thegateway to Machu Picchu.

Upon arrival at Machu Picchu,take a guided tour to acquaintyourself with the site beforetackling other activities likehiking to the Sun Gate (thetraditional entrance into MachuPicchu via the Inca Trail), or achallenging 1.5-hour ascent toHuanya Picchu for a spec-tacular view.

FESTIVALSIf visiting in September, you cancatch 2 very colourful local festivals.The Lord of Huanca Festival is wherethousands of devotees – who oftenarrive with new cars dressed to thehilt in flowers – from Peru and thesurrounding countries visit the Sanc-tuary of Huanca to receive blessings.The Warachikuy Festival celebratesthe traditional ceremony where youngmen have to pass initiation tests togain their citizenship, rights to marryand go to battle. The stage for thisperformance is the remarkable Incanruins of Sacsayhuaman, with a beau-tiful backdrop of Cusco city.

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BAGANBefore economic progress takes over everylast corner of tranquility in this Buddhistnation, seek out your very own pocket ofcalm in Bagan, an area in the Mandalayregion that is home to the largest concentra-tion of Buddhist temples, stupas and ruinsin the world.

One day Bagan will be mentioned in thesame breath as the Angkor Wat and otherancient archaeological sites around the re-gion. For now, though, it is an underratedgem, still largely untouched by touts andtourists, and you should arrive post hastewhile it is still as such.

Located about 640km north of Yangon,Bagan began constructing their Buddhist

temples in 1057 and has not stopped tillpresent day. The temples and pagodas,ranging in size from1m to 60m tall, are spreadacross a 32km rural area, which you canexplore on foot or bicycle. But if you don’twant to be baked to a crisp in the searingmidday sun, charter a horse and cart for theday to travel among the temples at a leisurelypace, with the driver doubling up as yourguide.

KNOW YOUR CUSTOMSYou don’t want to go all the way to Baganonly to offend the higher powers, so beaware of the appropriate Buddhist customs.When observing the sites, it is respectful towalk around them in a clockwise direction.This sends your prayers out into the cosmic

oneness of the universe, while walking coun-ter-clockwise is said to negate someoneelse’s prayers, and brings about negativekarma.

Dress modestly – cover up your arms andlegs before entering a temple. A longyi, or along piece of cloth similar to a sarong, willhave you all set for temple trotting and makesfor a good souvenir too. Longyis are unisex,though custom dictates that men and womentie theirs differently.

Before entering the pagoda complexes, it ismandatory to remove your footwear. Thisrule is steeped in the ancient monastic code,which says that monks and nuns are notallowed to teach Buddhism to anyone wear-ing shoes.

TEXT BY Clara LockADDITIONAL REPORTINGJames CruikshankPHOTOS BY James Cruikshank

The skyline of Myanmar looks set for change. After the country opened its doorsto reform with democratic elections this year, modernisation looks set to descendupon this up-and-coming Southeast Asian nation.

Yangon, Myanmar’s largest city, is already awash with over four million inhabitantsand the accompanying confusion. Streets are crammed with vendors hawkingeverything from books to umbrellas, and resound with the cacophony of honkingcars and buses.

VISITING BAGAN

FINDING THE LIGHTThe 800 year old Mahabodhi Temple ofBagan is modeled after the Bodhi temple inIndia where the Buddha attained enlighten-ment. The two-storey structure features over400 images of the Buddha in various seatedpositions. Seven monuments in the com-pound mark the Satta Htana, seven spotswhere the Buddha meditated, for a weekeach, after he attained enlightenment.

Every day, worshippers and Buddhist monkstake their place in front of the scores ofstatues and pavilions located around thetemple complex. Find a spot amidst theirsoothing chants and trancelike prayer andfeel your worldly concerns ebb away.

THE BIGGEST, BOLDEST AND OLDESTThe biggest temple in Bagan is the Dham-mayangyi Temple, which is also steeped inmystique. It is said that King Narathu, whobuilt this temple, killed his father and olderbrother to ascend the throne, and then erect-ed this temple to assuage his guilt. However,King Narathu was assassinated before con-struction of the temple was finished. Dham-

mayangyi, which boasts some of the mostintricate brickwork in Bagan, is one of thefew pyramid-shaped structures in thecomplex.

Meanwhile, the nearby Ananda is one of themost popular temples in Bagan. The 51metre-high temple is spectacular even fromafar, with a majestically gilded dome toweringabove the surrounding stupas. The structure,built to symbolise the Buddha’s infinite wis-dom, also houses four standing statues ofBuddha which represent nirvana, or a stateof transcendence akin to heaven.

The bulbous structure of Bupaya, whichmeans ‘a gourd shaped pagoda’, is said tobe the oldest temple in Bagan.

Legend has it that the beforehe came to power, the thirdking of Bagan managed to ridthe riverbanks of a gourd-likecreeper called ‘bu’. When hewas rewarded with kingship,he built Bupaya to commem-orate the occasion and hisgood fortune.

STAIRWAY TO SUNSETEveryone, from canoodlingcouples to trigger-happybackpackers, loves a goodsunset. And there are fewerplaces better than the Shwe-sandaw pagoda to catch onefrom. The 900 year old pagoda,which enshrines the hairs ofthe Buddha, rests atop fivesquare terraces into whichflights of stone stairs have beencut. Huff and puff your way tothe top and be rewarded withthe rosy hues of the settingsun, against a backdrop ofsweet incense.

GETTING THEREThere are a number of airlines that fly direct toYangon, with onward domestic flights to Mandalayor Bagan.

After opening its doors to the world, there hasbeen a slight influx of tourists visiting this onceboycotted country. Because of this, the numberof hotel rooms in the country cannot quite copewith the incoming visitors, so be aware thataccommodation may not be easy to come byespecially if you're planning a last minute trip.

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