JUL-AUG 2012MICA (P) 039/03/2012

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INCLUDESINCLUDESextra: Japan Special

Journeys IssueChina | India | Thailand

ISSUE 46ISSUE 46

plus: South Australia

Journeys IssueChina | India | Thailand

CONTENTS

Sports and Travel is a publication of Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd (Singapore). All articles published are in good faith and based on bona fide information available to The Publisher at thetime of press. The Publisher accepts no responsibility other than that stipulated by law. The Publisher also accepts no responsibilty for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials.All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or full without the previous written permission of The Publisher. Neither can any part be stored or recorded,by any means. The opinions expressed in The Publication are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by The Publisher.

This publication and the name are owned solely by Lennox and Ooi Media Pte Ltd, 391B Orchard Road, #13-09 Ngee Ann City, Tower B, Singapore 239974. Email: enquiry@sportsandtravelonline.com.Sports + Travel Singapore is published bimonthly and distributed throughout Singapore. Trademarks and copyrights for all other products, logos and depictions contained herein are theproperties of their respective trademark and copyright owners.

All colour separation and printing by International Press Softcom Ltd.

Singapore MICA (P) 039/03/2012

For a list of our distribution outlets, visit www.sportsandtravelonline.com.

> FEATURES

Wild North

Thailand’s Khao Yai

Southern Comfort

South India, Western Ghats

River Wild

Sarawak’s Rajang River

North to Northeast

Taiwan Road Trip

Journey to the West

Western Sichuan

Penang Marathon

Running the Bridge

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> REGULARS

GEAR GUIDE

TRAVEL NEWS

TRAVEL TIPS

SNAPSHOT: THAILAND

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> ADD-ONS

36-PAGE EXTRA: JAPAN SPECIAL

16-PAGE PLUS: SOUTH AUSTRALIA

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Our TeamEditor-in-ChiefMay Lynn

WriterKonrad Clapp

Creative DirectorLynn Ooi

DesignerMarilyn Wong

General ManagerAaron Stewart

Media Rep

Getting Around

Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd242A River Valley RoadSingapore 238299Tel 6732 0325www.sportsandtravelonline.comsportsntravel@gmail.com

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Advertising SalesSingaporeAaron Stewart, Lennox & Ooi Mediaaaron.stewart@sportsandtravelonline.com

Hong KongChris Ngcng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

ContributorsAlvin Low, Ken Berg, Nishant Store

Until then, Happy Trails!

Shangrila Adventureand many, many others!

Special Thanks

It’s summertime, so hit the road and have a well-deserved mid-year break! Longjourneys are great this time of year, as summer deals can be had in many places.

As this is the season of school holidays, you’ll likely want to find a touring destinationthat’s far from the madding crowd. This issue, we’re featuring a wide variety ofjourneys, whether you’re into wildlife, culture or simply cruising along a river.

For wildlife and nature, you can explore Thailand’s mountainous Khao Yai NationalPark along its myriad trails. For analternative highland exploration, headto southern India’s Western Ghatswhich straddle the states of TamilNadu and Kerala. Here, you can hikethe tea trails , visit wildlife reserves anddrop in on a hill station to soak in thecool air. Both Khao Yai and the WesternGhats are World Heritage listed bio-hotspots.

For those looking to move at your ownpace along well-travelled routes, headto Taiwan’s northeast and tackle a self-drive that takes in its coastal cliffs,dramatic gorges and high mountainroads, dropping in on hot spring resortsalong the way. If you prefer to use thewaterway instead, Sarawak’s RajangRiver may be just your thing. Fromthe town of Sibu, hop onto an expressboat and explore the riverside townsthat were once home to fierceheadhunters – today, you can visitsome of these longhouses and see howthey live.

For a cultural journey, take a touraround western Sichuan and see a partof China that is home to TibetanBuddhists, picturesque peaks with high-altitude passes, rolling grasslands and nomadic tribes.

In this bumper issue, we’re also featuring Japan in its own 36-page special! Explore mountaintreks, cultural gems, summer activities and more in the land of the rising sun. We’re alsofeaturing a 16-page South Australia special, for those of you looking for a relaxing holiday.

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For any trail runners out there, don’t forget to checkout Frost the Trail 2012, on 25 August at MacRitchieReservoir Park. There are 5km team (4 pax, S$500)and 10km (S$125) individual runs with proceeds goingto the Bright Hill Evergreen Home. For more informationcheck out www.frost.com/frost-the-trail.

RUN FOR CHARITY: FROST THE TRAIL

Encompassing seven major ecosystemsranging from lowland savannah toevergreen rainforest and steep mountainslopes, Khao Yai is home to more than3,000 species, including some of theworld’s most endangered birds, primatesand tigers.

Stretching over 2,100sq.km., Khao Yai’ssingular importance to global conservationas one of the largest intact forests in Asiawas even further underlined in 2005 whenit was given UNESCO status as part ofthe trans-national Dong Phayayen-KhaoYai Forest Complex.

DONG PHAYAYEN-KHAO YAI FOREST COMPLEXThe UNESCO-listed Dong Phayayen-Khao Yaiis a trans-national conservation initiativeencompassing segments of 4 different parksover an area of 230sq.km., connecting KhaoYai National Park, with Cambodia’s Ta PhrayaNational Park.

The complex forms a critical green corridorthat’s home to over 800 different animalspecies, dozens of which are endangeredincluding the Asian elephant, wild banteng,primates like the Pileated Gibbon and predatorslike the clouded leopard and tiger.

KHAO YAISituated just 2 hours’ drive from Bangkok(120km), the park is the eco centrepiece ofThailand’s vast northeastern region of Isan.

Covering an immense area of 160,000sq.km.,across 20 different provinces, Isan comprisesThailand’s most remote region. Historically,Isan’s been largely cut off from the rest of thecountry by numerous mountain ranges in thewest, while in the east its border with the mightyMekong River has given it close historic andcultural links with neighbouring Laotian tribes– a fact that is reflected in its local Lao-influenced language, festivals and food.

While Thailand itself is home to over 100 national parks (including 21 marine reserves),one park – Khao Yai – stands out among all the rest in the minds of travellers andscientists alike as the country’s premier nature reserve.

IMAGES FROMTourism AuthorityThailand

THAILAND’S KHAO YAINATIONAL PARK

WILDLIFE AT KHAO YAIFounded in 1962, Khao Yai is Thailand’s firstnational park, and remains one of Asia’smost diverse ecosystems. The park is hometo a huge range of species, including primateslike gibbon and macaque, wild boar anddeer, large herbivores like gaur and buffalo,omnivores like sun bear and black bear, over200 types of birds including massive hornbills,and even a small number of highly elusivetigers (among the park’s 19 vulnerable and5 endangered species) which are largelyobserved only through their pug marks.

ElephantsKhao Yai is also home to a large number ofAsian elephants (pop. 250), and is one of thebest places in the region to encounter thesegentle giants. Foraging across the park’slowland savannah and hillsides, they eat anaverage of 300kg/day of bamboo, rattan andfruiting plants, meaning they’re constantlyon the move, and often seen solo or in familyherds by jeep safari groups crossing KhaoYai’s various trails.

Khao Luk Chang “Bat Cave”One of Khao Yai’s most popular attractionsis the “Bat Cave”, located several kilometresinside the north entrance of the park. Mostgroups arrive an hour before sunset asroughly 1 million bats prepare to leave thecave en masse.

As they foray in search of insects and fruit,the bats themselves are prey for the park’sresident raptors like Crested goshawks andsparrowhawks, who put on an aerial display,dive-bombing through the thick clouds ofbats.

GETTING AROUNDWidely regarded as one of, if not the bestwildlife park in the region, Khao Yai can eitherbe explored via organised tour, by privatecar or better still on foot, with or without aguide.

Popular HikesThanks to its heavy rainfall and mountainousterrain, Khao Yai has dozens of picturesquewaterfalls. Many of these areeasily accessible, from the park’swarren of 50+ hiking trails withone of the most popular beingthe 8km hike from Kong KaewFalls to Huai Sa Falls,conveniently starting from justbehind the park headquarters.

Another popular trek is from HaeoSuwat Falls (made famous by themovie The Beach) to Thung YaKhao. It’s a rewarding trek alongthe Lamta Kong River, but despitebeing just 3km it requires a guidedue to the difficult terrain.

Other popular treks include tonearby clusters of waterfallsfurther south, including Manao toTat Takhongh falls, and Pha Krajayto Pha Chomphu falls.

Motorised TransportIf time is of the essence, it ispreferable to either hire a guide(with vehicle) or rent a motorcycleor car in Pak Chong to get aroundthe park – with a vehicle givingyou far better access to many ofthe best (and remotest) trails viathe park’s sole, 60km long thru-road.

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GETTING THEREGeographically close to the capital, but separatedfrom the rest of Thailand by the soaring Dongrek andPhetchabun ranges, Khao Yai is both a convenientshort-break from bustling Bangkok as well as an idealstarting-point for longer journeys through Thailand’sremote Northeast.

Situated in far western Isan, Khao Yai is easilyaccessible from Bangkok (120km) with good roadand rail connections to the nearest major town, PakChong (23km), although there are infrequent publicbus services into the main entrance from here.

There are 2 entrances to park - via Pak Chong orPrachinburi - with park admission at 400baht perperson.

Khao Yai is open year-round, with most Bangkok-based operators running short 2-3 day return-tripsinto the park from 12,000-15,000baht per person. Atjust over 2 hours’ drive from the capital, these typicallyallow for ample time on the ground, as well as thedaily Khao Yai Night Safari.

Accommodation is also available both on the way in,and within the park itself, meaning there’s no shortageof options at various price ranges.

WHEN TO GORanging in altitude from 200m to 1,350m, the park isa favourite spot for Bangkok residents with its coolweather, where nights can drop below 10ºC anddaytime temps in the mid-20s.

Khao Yai is most popular during its coolest monthsfrom November to February, while things heat upsignificantly from March to May, with many of itsfamous waterfalls drying up by late April, beforecooling back off during the wet season (Jun-Sep).

For more information on trips to Thailand including famousKhao Yai National Park, visit www.tourismthailand.org/sg

GEAR GUIDE

ICE ICE BABYBeat the heat with Columbia’sOmni-Freeze Ice, a fabric thatlowers its temperature when itreacts with your perspiration. Thebaselayers, which come in gen-der-specific cutting, can be lay-ered under a light jacket or wornon their own when you hit thegym. Strategically placed meshpanels keep you cool, while thesleek, no-stitch finish in high chaffzones means you won’t feel athing – even after spending hoursoutdoors. The Omni Freeze IceCollection is available at all Co-lumbia Stores (MBS and Velocity@ Novena Square), selectedWorld of Sports and World ofOutdoors outlets, retailing atS$79.90.

MOZZIE OFFThere are many forms of mosquito pro-tection out there, from Permethrin-embedded clothing to DEET sprays.The Para'Kito is a simple wristbandwith a pellet. You can wear it on yourwrist or ankle, and the pellet slowlyreleases a blend of essential oils (whichare extracted from plants) that maskhuman presence to mosquitoes. Prod-uct efficacy differs with each individual,and the waterproof, replaceable pelletsare effective for 15 days. Wristbands(with 2 pellets) are available at 44 outletsin Singapore from S$26.50, while the2-pellet pack retails at S$14.90.

Para’Kito

ColumbiaOmni-Freeze Ice

PACK BUDDYThe Mammut Creon Pro back-pack’s innovative suspension sys-tem provides support and ventilationfor both long hikes and lightweightbackpacking trips. The backpackhas lots of features, including sidezip access to the main compart-ment, a removable bottom compart-ment, 4 extra pockets and 2 attach-ments for ice axes. At a reasonablylight weight to carry, it is also com-patible with a hydration system,making it ideal for long walks orhikes. Now available at Adventure21 at S$309 (38L) and S$319 (45L).

MammutCreon Pro

KING OF THE MOUNTAINFrom fast Alpine-style climbs to long-haultrips or full-day backcountry ski tours, theMarmot Ares Down Jacket is ultra light-weight and versatile. Made from 800-fillgoose down, it’s an easy addition to yourkit without adding weight or bulk as a solopiece for colder conditions or an ideal mid-layer for extreme-cold conditions. Sportingdown-proof fabric, there’s no sheddingloose feathers, while handwarmers andelastic hems keep out the cold. Availablefrom Campers’ Corner at S$280.

MarmotAres Down Jacket

07COOL BOOTSKEEN's Voyageur Mid is a hiking shoe that'sstripped of its waterproof barrier in favour of meshlining to allow for more ventilation for warm days.The outsoles wrap up and over the toes providingpatented toe protection, while the removable meta-tomical footbed provides excellent arch support tocradle the natural contours of the foot. The aggres-sive outsole has 4mm lugs to bite into the terrain,and the ESS shank provides torsional stability whilethe heel support structure is engineered to supportthe foot on impact, reducing your odds of a twistedankle. The Voyageur Mid generally fits about a 1/2size small, and retails at S$209 at selected Worldof Outdoors and World of Sports.

KEENVoyageur Mid

LIGHT SLEEPERThe Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite mattress features the nextgeneration of NeoAir technology that delivers ultralight supportfor gram-counting backpackers, warmth and comfort. Thestreamlined shape and advanced fabrics are almost 15%lighter than the original, while the internal truss systemminimises shifting while you sleep. Year-round warmth isprovided by the padding (which incorporates a welded-nylongrid of chambers) and the internal cells that trap warm airand return the heat to your body. The Therm-a-Rest NeoAirXLite sleeping pad includes a stuff sack and repair kit, andis available at Outdoor Life, retailing at S$310.

Therm-a-RestNeoAir XLite

SOUTH INDIA: WESTERN GHATS

SOUTHERN INDIAConsisting of nine major states, South Indiafeels dramatically different from its northernneighbours. With a history dating back over3,000 years, the region's long been knownthrough its extensive trade relations withboth East and West, the legacy of which isstill visible in places like Kochi (Kerala) andPondicherry.

As the predominant culture is Dravidian-based, one major difference with the Northis the spoken languages, which include Tamiland Malayalam - meaning English is generallybetter understood than Hindi.

For visitors, the most obviously striking dif-ference is the South's profusion of Hindutemples with their ornate gopurams perchedon every entrance. These stepped, steeplyrising pyramids are carved with layer uponlayer of detailed painted statues.

Tamil Nadu and KeralaFor those with limited time to explore all thesouthern states, a trip to Tamil Nadu andKerala encompasses many of the region’sbest highlights, from ancient temple archi-tecture to scenic hill stations.

While Tamil Nadu is probably best knownfor its 25,000+ historic temples and ruins,many dating back thousands of years, it'salso dotted with hill stations, colonial out-posts and great air and road connectivity,making it an ideal base to start a larger SouthIndia trip from. 

Neighbouring Kerala’s most famous attrac-tion is undoubtedly its extensive backwaters,which gives travellers easy access to ruralcommunities from the decks of their kettu-vallam houseboats. Further inland it’s moun-tainous terrain is dotted with wildlife reservesand rolling tea plantations.

The Western GhatsWhile Tamil Nadu and Kerala each offersomething distinctly different, they also sharesome of South India's greatest destinationsin the soaring Western Ghats – a mountain-ous ridgen that give rise to many importantrivers and is home to hill stations, tea plan-tations and rolling mountains.

One of the “Top Ten Hottest BiodiversitySpots” in the world, this newly-listedUNESCO site is home to over 3,000 species,dozens of which are endemic and 325 ofwhich are endangered.

Many places of interest along the WesternGhats straddle the Tamil Nadu-Kerala border,giving you a viable option to visit many ofthe states' better known attractions, includingthe hill stations of Ooty, Kodaikanal andMunnar, as well as Periyar National Park, allin a single trip.

India is a vast country, covering more than 3million sq.km., and boasting a huge diversityof cultures, ecosystems, species and terrain,from the deserts of Rajasthan and Gujarat inthe west, to the lush Sundarbans in the east,and the towering Himalayas stretching fromKashmir to Arunachal Pradesh in the north.

And while each region of the country offersdistinctly different experiences, South Indiaencompasses lush green landscape, moun-tains, sandy beaches, ancient temples andis home to a wide variety of wildlife.

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Covering 770sq.km., Periyar’s diverse terrainincludes some of South India’s best-preserved sholas (evergreen jungle), steephills and a flooded forest reservoir createdby the British in 1895.

Besides being one of India’s 27 Project Tigerparks, Periyar’s also known as one of theworld’s best elephant reserves. Congregatingaround Lake Periyar, sightings of large familyherds or solo male tuskers are commonplace,while the surrounding marshland makes anideal habitat for more than 320 varieties ofbirds, from cormorants and kingfishers, tothe huge Greater Hornbill.

Lake Periyar is an ideal wildlife-spottinglocation, where you can board scheduledlake cruises. Chances of spotting wildlifesightings are better especially late in theseason (March-April), when vegetation driesup prior to the monsoon and large herbivoreslike elephant and gaur come down to thelake to drink and bathe.

People PowerPeriyar’s focus on win-win eco-strategieswith local villagers has resulted in the suc-cessful implementation of 22 different com-munity initiatives in cooperation with the localManans and Oralis tribes. These includemanaging sustainable fishing and traditionalforestry, as well as rehabilitating formerpoachers as rangers and guides.

A good way to explore Periyar is along aguided forest hike (accompanied by rangers),ranging from short day-trips to night treksfor tiger patrol.

Overlooking the Deccan Plateau, Munnarand its surrounding mountains are home tosome of the highest tea estates in the world,as well as some of the best hikes in SouthernIndia. Escaping the lowland heat, nearbyEravikulam National Park has several majortrails, criss-crossing high-altitude meadows,past waterfalls and ridgelines over 2,000m,where sightings of the rare Nilgiri tahr bound-ing across cliff faces are common.

Trekkers will find a multitude of hiking optionsalong the undulating Western Ghats fromMunnar. South India's highest peak – Ana-mudi (2,695m) – is located nearby, but accessto it is prohibited. You can, however, climbthe surrounding peaks like Messappulimala(2,650m), the second highest peak. Thesemountain trails sometimes yield sightings or

the Nilgiri Tahr as well as the occasionalelephant.

Tea TrailsAs Munnar is tea country, expect to seerolling hills of tea bush, punctuated by pic-turesque lakes and waterfalls as you tour thearea. You can take 4WD trips up to the world’shighest tea estate at Kolukkumalai, which isspread across 500 acres at elevations of upto 2,400m.

Perched at the junction of several majorroads, Munnar is also an important east-west access point, with the aptly namednearby town of Top Station marking themountainous border between Kerala andTamil Nadu and offering huge sweeping viewsof both states.

WILDLIFE WATCHING: PERIYAR

TEA AND HIKES: MUNNAR

Ooty

Kodaikanal

Munnar

Periyar

KOCHI

COIMBATORE

For more in India, visitwww.incredibleindia.org.

TAMILNADU

KERALA

Much smaller than Ooty and more relaxed,Kodaikanal is situated on the crest of thePalani knolls. Surrounded by wooded slopes,waterfalls and precipitous rocky outcropsthat you can easily hike to, the drive up anddown the winding route is breathtaking.

Established in 1845, this is the only hill stationset up by American missionaries, hencechurches are abundant in Kodaikanal. Theseinclude the Church of South India, UnionChurch and Margaret Eddy Memorial Chapelat Kodai International School with servicesin a typical American style and distinctivestone architecture.

Walks and hikesKodaikanal is a good base for hikes to thenearby attractions, including Coaker’s Walk,

a 1km paved trail with superb valley viewswhere you may see a Brocken Spectre (youcan see your shadow on the clouds with arainbow halo).

Another popular hike is the 7km hike to thescenic Pillar Rocks, which is a set of three122m-high giant rock pillars on the edge ofa cliff. You can also hike 8km to Dolphin’sNose, which is a flat rock projecting over abreathtaking chasm 2,000m deep, providingbeautiful views of steep rocky escarpmentsrising from the plains.

The area is also dotted with pretty waterfallsthat you can visit, including Bear Shola Falls(20 mins walk from town) and Silver Cascade(just along the road outside town).

South India’s most famous hill station,Odhagamandalam, or “Ooty”, is situated at2,240m, and its cool mountain climate makesit unlike anywhere else in the state.

Ooty offers spectacular scenery and greattrekking, as well as its historic toy train - apint-sized, British era railroad that makessimply getting to Ooty half the fun. A journeyup to Ooty on board the UNESCO-listedNilgiri Mountain Railway is a like a journeyback in time. It crosses 16 bridges and 250tunnels over a winding 5-hour trip, as theoriginal historic steam engines lumber upfrom Metupallayam 1,800m below.

While auto-rickshaws zoom around thebustling Charing Cross, the former Britishera commercial centre, just 1km out of town,Ooty gives way to rolling mountain andverdant meadows.

Beyond OotyYou can go for long walks and hikes aroundthe tea and vegetable plantations in the area.

There is a base camp at Parsons valley, fromwhere you can start trekking to various pointswithin the Western Ghats.

Supporting local guidesWith Ooty’s economic metamorphosis fromtea country to tourism, the local Toda tribehave firmly established themselves as hikingguides. Already well-known for theircharacteristic half-tubular huts, they canorganise local home stays and day treks upnearby Doddabetta Peak (2,623m), thehighest point in the district.

HERITAGE RAIL: OOTY

ROCKY VIEWS: KODAIKANAL

DELHI

CHENNAI

GETTING THERESouthern India has numerous internationalairports with regular connections to Singa-pore. The main gateway to the region isChennai (Tamil Nadu), with plenty of airlineoptions including Singapore Airlines, JetAirways and SilkAir. However, to access theWestern Ghats, it’s more convenient to flydirect to Kochi International Airport (Kerala).

For more in India, visitwww.incredibleindia.org.

INDIA

SARAWAK’S RAJANG RIVER

The largest state in Malaysia, Sarawakis covered in thick jungle and mountains,where the majority of the populationlive near the coast or along rivers.

Even though it is part of Malaysia,Sarawak's mix of ethnicity is extremelydiverse, with the largest ethnic groupbeing the Iban, followed by Chineseand Malay. The rest of the populace ismade up of over 20 other tribal groups,each with their own customs and rituals.

Sarawak's natural landscape is home to ahost of flora and fauna, as well as interestinggeology. For this reason, many areas areprotected as national parks. Some of itsmost popular parks include Bako NationalPark (home to big-nosed Proboscis mon-keys), Gunung Mulu National Park (home tosome of the world's largest cave systems),Niah National Park (known for its archeolog-ical remains and historic cave paintings), aswell as Batang Ai National Park (popular forlonghouse visits).

As a large state, most populated towns andvillages around the country's hinterland arelinked not by road (thanks to the thick rain-forest), but by the many rivers that slicethrough the landscape, providing essentiallinks to the rest of the state, with the mostimportant river in Sarawak being the mightyRajang River.

RAJANG RIVERThe Rajang River stretches for over 500km

from the Iran Mountains to the South ChinaSea, making it the longest river in Malaysia.It penetrates deep into the state, and servesas a major link between the coast (wheretrade happens) and the jungle interior (wheremany tribal groups live).

The Sarawak hinterland is dotted by manysmall frontier towns and longhouses, manyof which straddle the Rajang. These townsare inhabited mainly by the state's numeroustribes, including the Iban, Bidayuh, OrangUlu, Melanau and Penan.

This makes the Rejang River an ideal locationto explore the country's cultural treasures,as well as its riverland ecology.

In addition, you can also explore the archi-tectural vestiges of Rajah Brooke (the first'White Rajah of Sarawak'), including FortEmma in Kanowit and For Sylvia in Kapit.

There are 3 major towns along the river: Sibu(Sarawak's second largest city), Kapit (the

main town in the hinterland) and Belaga (asmall town upriver). From these settlements,you can easily access the country's interiorvia the many speedboats that ply the river.

TRIBES AND LONGHOUSESOne of the biggest draws to visiting Sarawakis experiencing its tribal culture. Borneo haslong been known its headhunting history,which was practised by the larger tribalgroups like the Iban, Orang Ulu and Bidayuh.

Once fierce headhunters, these people be-lieved in the magical powers that emanatedfrom severed heads, so it became an impor-tant rite of passage and source of honourfor young men. The practice has since beenoutlawed and these days, the tribes havebecome peaceful farmers.

That said, many of the older longhouses stillproudly display the skulls of their conquests,which are often roped together and hungnear the entrance for all to see.

ALONG THE RIVERThe Rajang links several important towns inthe hinterland, some of which are good basesfrom which to explore the rainforest as wellas nearby longhouses.

The best way to get to these towns is byspeedboat – express boats are the lifelinefor those living near the Rajang, as few roadspenetrate the dense forest. From the expressboats, you get a glimpse of villages, townsand even longhouses along the way.

Luxury colonial river steamer The Pandawalso operates along the Rajang, calling in attowns like Kanowit and Kapit for longhousevisits and short jungle treks along the way.

From the main town of Sibu, there arenumerous options for express boats to towns

like Kapit and Belaga, calling at smaller townslike Song and Kanowit along the way. Thejourney from Sibu to Kapit takes about 2.5to 3.5 hours depending on the number ofstops, and from Kapit, there are onwardboats to Belaga.

Pelagus RapidsFrom Kapit, you can transfer onto a smalllongboat and tackle the churning PelagusRapids. This picturesque part of the riverhas numerous small islands, reefs and shoals,while the surrounding rainforest is rich inflora and fauna.

Depending on the level of water in thissection, the river is impassable to certainvessels, and you can see a number ofabandoned boats that were victims of theriver tides.

Visiting a longhouseThe best way to experience the tribal cultureis by visiting a longhouse, whether it's for aday trip or multi-night excursion. While plentyof tribal longhouses line the Rajang River,many of these are quasi-modern in theirconstruction – concrete walls replacewooden ones, and satellite dishes arestandard in most households.

As there are over 4,500 longhouses inSarawak, there are also plenty of authenticold-fashioned longhouses not far from theriver if you know where to look.

If you're pressed for time, you can visit theauthentic longhouses at Bawang Assan,about an hour by boat or road from Sibu.There are 9 longhouses ranging from thosedating from the 18th century to a modernincarnation, so you can see an evolution ofits architecture.

There are a few specialist operators whocan take you to some longhouses deep inSarawak's interior, many of which can onlybe reached via trekking through the jungle.The area around Kapit, midway down theRajang River, is a popular gateway forlonghouse visits, as many of these still retaintheir original structure and material.

Those who spend more than one night atthese longhouses will get to experience howthe local Iban or Orang Ulu people live firsthand. Not only can you spend the night atthe longhouse with the family – you'll sleepon floor mats and share amenities – but youcan also visit rice fields and pepper gardens,or learn to cook Iban style by gathering

food from the rainforest.

In the evenings, the ruai (the maingallery of an Iban longhouse)comes alive and visitors will beentertained with traditional musicand dance, and share a glass oftuak (rice wine) with the villageelder.

A good time to visit is during the Gawai Dayak festival (June 1),one of Sarawak’s largest festivalsmarking the end of the riceharvest festival and is animportant symbol of unity for allthe 26 major tribes in the state.

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JUNGLE TREKKINGThere are a multitude of trails to trek, rangingfrom short hour-long hikes to longer trailsrequiring the aid of a guide, as some of themare unmaintained and overgrown.

Many of the trails are easily accessible fromthe Rajang, and the terrain is mainly hilly,with trails that cut through thick forests andcross jungle streams, so be prepared formosquitoes and leeches.

Depending on the guide or operator, trailsmay range from muddy tracks to those aidedwith bamboo boardwalks over difficult or

wet sections ofthe path.

A trek into thejungle interior herewould yieldsightings of manybird species, inaddition to a hostof colourful insectlife.

WILDLIFE SPOTTINGOver 120 species of birds have been record-ed here, ranging from tiny Spiderhunters tolarge eagles, as well as different types ofHornbills (many of which are protected).

Mammals like wild boars and deer can some-times be seen in the jungle, along with rarersightings of primates like gibbons, langurs,giant squirrels, slow loris and tarsier. In theriver, dolphins and otters have also beenspotted on occasion.

Having a local guide will help you identifysome of the jungle's medicinal plants (someof which are used to counteract snake poi-son, among other things), and you can alsotry eating a live sago worm, which is consid-ered a delicacy by the locals.

GETTING THEREThe main access point to the Rajang Riveris the city of Sibu. There are direct daily flightsfrom Kuching, Kuala Lumpur and Johor Bahruto Sibu (via Malaysia Airlines or Air Asia).From Sibu, the main speedboat terminus willtake you to various towns along the river.

KUCHING

Sibu

KanowitKapit

BelagaRajang River

SARAWAK

Taiwan is well known for its high-altitudemountains and picturesque rockycoastlines. The best way to experiencethe country's scenic areas is along thecoastal and mountain roads that criss-cross this undulating landscape.

These roads lend themselves toamazing self-drives and – for the moreambitious and fit – cycling.

NORTH EASTERN TAIWAN ROAD TRIP

THE SCENIC LOOPOne of the best routes to explore both Tai-wan's high-altitude mountains and rockycoastline is along a loop that takes you tothe northern coast of Keelung and the scenicnortheast coast, before heading further southtowards the plains of Yilan, Hualien and thefamous Taroko Gorge.

The road then meanders inland through thehigh-altitude chain of mountains, passingthe East Rift Valley along some of the coun-try's highest mountain roads before loopingback to Taipei.

The loop takes in 4 major highways andtraverses no less than four National ScenicAreas, which range from coastal to moun-tainous landscapes.

As a pure driving trip, the entire loop can bedone in 3 days, with overnight stops around

Yilan and Hualien. However, to truly appre-ciate the surroundings and to stop for activ-ities – like rock climbing at Longdong orhiking in Xueshan – a couple of nights ateach stop is recommended.

STARTING FROM TAIPEIFrom Taipei, the most scenic way to get tothe north coast is by cutting through Yang-mingshan National Park (which is only ac-cessible to vehicles on weekdays).

This undulating mountainous landscape isa hotbed of geothermal activity, which isevidenced by the plumes of sulphur. As such,there are a number of options for hot springbaths, ranging from free soaks at a publicbath in Lengshuikeng to luxury spa resorts.

Yangmingshan is also famous for its networkof well-maintained hiking trails, the mostpopular of which links Xiaoyukeng (which

features billowing fumaroles and steam vents)and Lengshuikeng (with its marshy lake),where you can soak in the public bath aftera hike. The highest peak here is Mt. Cising(Seven Star Mountain), a popular hike thataffords a sweeping 360º view of the entirepark from the summit.

PRACTICALITIESThe best place to start this picturesqueroad trip is Taipei. If you want to bypassthe city's notoriously heavy traffic, you canalso rent the car straight out of Taipei'sTaoyuan Airport – most car rental compa-nies can drop off and pick up the cars atthe airport at no charge via email or phone.

There are no major international car rentalbrands here and average daily car rentalrates are around NT2,400 per day.

Aerial view of the Hualien coast

Day Lilies at Yangmingshan

Driving along mountain roads

15

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15

NORTHEAST COAST SCENIC AREAFor those with limited time, the fastest wayto the northeast coast is via the seaside cityof Keelung, which is famous for its nightlyopen-air market with over 200 seafood hawk-ers. From here, you can easily access theNortheast Coast Scenic Area directly.

The Northeast Coast Scenic Area is wherethe Pacific and East China Sea meet, andthe area comprises a mixed terrain of rollingtrails, excellent beaches, coastal hills andsome of Asia's most dramatic coastal cliffsand rock formations. This is an area whereyou can do a bit of everything, from hikingto diving, rock climbing and cycling.

In many areas, the mountains seem to runinto the sea, terminating abruptly in minusculebeaches at the foot of sheer cliffs. Poundedby the Pacific, the region has long beenfamous among surfers at places like Honey-moon Bay. The wind-and-sea-sculpted cliffsat Longdong is a burgeoning hotspot for rockclimbing, while the waters around here are

popular for shore dives (nudibranchs arecommon).

Hikers can explore the area's churning blow-holes and extinct lava vents along the BitouCape Trail, or tackle the 200-year old CaolingHistoric Trail that takes you past historiclandmarks and striking geology. You can alsohead to nearby Fulong to rent a bicycle andcycle through the Caoling Bikepath to explorethe area's history.

Continuing along the coast, you'll hit the hotspring town of Jiaosi, which is a popularweekend getaway for Taipei dwellers. Here,you can enjoy a hot spring soak in the area'scolourless and odourless spring water, orjump onboard a boat tour to nearby TurtleIsland (March to November) for a spot ofwhale and dolphin watching.

South from Jiaosi is Yilan city, and just beyondthat is Suao, which is known for its cold,carbonated natural spring (the only coldspring in Taiwan).

Bitou Cape

Fulong

Jinshan

Jiaosi

MAP OFTAIWAN

Yeliu

HUALIEN

Suao

Wuling Farm

YILAN

XueshanMountainRange

Taroko Gorge

KEELUNG

TAIPEI

Bitou Cape and Long Dong Fishing Harbour © Matt Robertson

NORTH COAST SCENIC AREAFrom Yangmingshan, the road drops you atthe North Coast Scenic Area at Jinshan, aformer gold mine town with scenic oceanviews.

As a alternative route (or on weekends), youcan drive to the coastal town of Danshui,which is a longer route to Jinshan.

The northern coast of Taiwan is a rockylandscape, dotted with fine sandy beaches(including Baishawan), hot springs and wa-terfalls. The drive time via the North CoastScenic Area is longer to get to Jinshan, but

you can also get to experience the northerncoast's burgeoning surf scene.

Thanks to the unforgiving wind and waves,the landscape has been carved into a strangebut attractive geological wonderland.

From Jinshan, it's an easy access to Yeliu,a geological park with dramatically-sculptedgranite and sandstone rocks that line thecoast. Among the famous formations arethe Queen's Head Rock (which is shapedlike Queen Nefertiti's profile), Cinderella'sSlipper as well as Earth and Elephant rocks.

Scenery along the North Coast

Yeliu Geopark

DRIVE TIMES:Bitou Cape - Fulong: 25 minsFulong - Jiaosi: 50 minsJiaosi - Suao: 40 minsSuao - Hualien: 3 hrsHualien - Wuling: 5 hrsWuling - Yilan: 3 hrsYilan - Taipei: 40 mins

EAST RIFT VALLEY SCENIC AREAHeading north from Taroko Gorge towardsYilan takes you through the mountainousEast Rift Valley Scenic Area.

The highway takes you along some of Tai-wan's highest motorable roads, and passessome of the tallest mountains in the country.The road offers stunning vistas as it twists

and turns through the mountains and squeez-es through numerous narrow single-lanetunnels. The high altitude roads (which canreach 3,700m) can easily fog over, so it isadvisable to drive in daylight, as there areno street lights in the mountains.

Thanks to the cool climate, the area is alsohome to vegetable and fruit farms, including

the famous Wuling Farm (1,740m - 2,200m),once a fruit-growing area tended by retiredsoldiers. Now it's a starting point for thoseclimbing to Xueshan (3,886m), or SnowMountain, Taiwan's second highest peak.

The area is known as 'a land of milk andhoney', and along the highway, you can seeplenty of farms – apples, tea, vegetables –flanking the winding road as you drivethrough 4 major forest reserves along theway (Wuling, Cilan, Mingchin and Dongyannational forests).

The undulating road meanders its way downto the verdant plains at Yilan, from whereyou can connect to Taipei via the XueshanTunnel (Taiwan's longest tunnel).

EAST COAST SCENIC AREAAfter Suao, the road – sections of whichwere carved by hand – hugs the sheer cliffsas it twists and turns, making it one of themost dramatic and winding coastal roads inthe world. It takes about 3 hours throughthis winding highway from Yilan to Hualien.

This East Coast Scenic Area is bounded bythe Pacific Ocean and the Coastal MountainRange, characterised by coastal terraces,pebble beaches, capes and sea caves. Thearea is also the primary homeland of theAmis aboriginal tribe, and if you're drivingto Hualien in July and August, you can wit-ness their harvest festival.

Spend a night in Hualien and explore itsaboriginal history, or enjoy the sun and sea.From Hualien it's a short drive to TarokoGorge, arguably one of Taiwan's most famouslandmarks.

TAROKO GORGEThe road that cuts through this gorge isHighway #8 (Cross Island Highway) whichwas cut through by hand to provide accessbetween Hualien in the east and Taichungin the west.

Carved out of sheer rock, the road is over-shadowed by dramatic 500m-high walls inmost places, sliced through by the LiwuRiver. The gorge is dotted with stunningsights, including waterfalls, cliff-perchedtemples, manmade tunnels and geologicallandmarks. Famous portions include theTunnel of Nine Turns (the narrowest point ofthe gorge that is now accessible only on footor by bicycle), and the Swallow's Grotto (withlimestone formations and cliffs).

You can also stop and explorethe area on some of its ex-cellent hiking trails, whichrange from the short EternalSpring route (1.5km) to multi-day treks. In season, you canopt for river tracing tours inthe area.

Taroko Gorge to Taipei, so it'sa good idea to break thejourney with an overnight stopeither in the gorge or some-where in the mountains.

SEASONSIn summer, it's a great time to head to thebeaches for a swim or surf, and the mountainsare a respite from the summer heat. However,it's worth checking beforehand about ty-phoons which can result in road closures.

Winter is the best time to enjoy hiking andhot spring soaks, so hot spring resort areas– like Yangmingshan and Jiaosi – can get fullybooked over the weekends.

As with any self-drive, it is worth checking inadvance about accessibility, as roads areprone to closure in any season.

For more on Taiwan and places to explore on a self-drive, visit www.taiwan.net.tw.

Coastal Highway to Hualien

Tunnel of Nine Turns at Taroko Gorge

Mountain Road along Hehuanshan

17

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BATTLEOF THE SKIESJetstar (www.jetstar.com)

This month, Jetstar’s top fare deals include Auckland

or Melbourne (from S$368) and Hong Kong (from

S$128), with flight+hotel package for 3 nights in Bali

(from S$474) and Phuket (from S$250). From 9 July,

Jetstar Japan will take to the skies with access from

Singapore via Taipei, and onward services from

Tokyo to Osaka, Sapporo and Okinawa (after 24

August, 2012).

Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com)

Tiger’s summer deals include historic Kochi (from

S$128) and Perth (from $210) for travel before 24

September, while other ongoing promo fares include

KL, Kuching and Penang starting from S$28-48.

From now until 31 December, Hertz has exclusive

discount offers for Tiger passengers on car hires,

with 20% off for Hong Kong and Philippines (including

driver), and 30% off for Malaysian rentals.

Scoot (flyscoot.com)

With the addition of its new Tokyo-connection (via

Taipei), Scoot has quickly expanded to 6 destinations

with all-in, 1-way promo fares including Bangkok

(from S$78), Gold Coast and Sydney (from AUD$158)

and Tianjin (from S$188) for travel before 30 March,

2013.

AirAsia (airasia.com)

AirAsia Japan is offering extremely strong deals on

direct flights to Tokyo and Osaka, both from S$169,

all-in one-way for travel from 16 September – 30

November, 2013. Additional promos include Lang-

kawi (from S$36), and Penang or KK from from S$48.

Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com)

Qatar continues to push its discounted Bali route

with full-service return fares from S$310. Other

unique off-line destinations via Doha include the

Croatian Riviera with historic Zagreb (from S$1,475).

Qantas (www.qantas.com.au)

Qantas currently has deals to Australia, with flights

to Perth from S$256, Adelaide from S$510, Mel-

bourne from S$510 and Sydney from S$521, all

excluding taxes for travel by June 2013. In addition,

their Qantas Walkabout Pass fares let you explore

further, with fares from S$70 per flight sector (includ-

ing New Zealand at S$130 per flight sector).

Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com)

From now until 31 March 2013, Bangkok Airways

has promo fares from Singapore to Samui (from

S$320), with onward Samui-Bangkok services from

3,200THB (S$130). Special roundtrip add-ons include

Luang Prabang (under S$300).

If visiting Mt. Fuji this summer, the Mt. Fuji Round Trip

Ticket gives you direct access to trains and buses up

to the fifth station. Valid for 2 consecutive days, this

round-trip ticket goes for ¥5,500 per adult (about half

off the regular fare) and is valid for travel till October

31, 2012 (www.jreast.co.jp).

In Hokkaido, the Hokkaido Rail Pass and Station Car

Rental package lets you save up to 32% on car rental

if you reserve online (valid till December). Plus, you can

pick up your car at any station and return it at another

at no cost (www2.jrhokkaido.co.jp).

A spate of LCCs have just launched in Japan in the

past 6 months, including Peach (linked to ANA), AirAsia

Japan and Jetstar Japan (linked to JAL), in addition to

the independent Skymark. This enhanced competition

means cheaper fares for flights around Japan.

JAPAN BY RAIL & AIR

This year marks the 28th

installment of Malaysia’s biggest

road race, the Penang Bridge

International Marathon (PBIM)

on 18 November, 2012. It also

marks the last year the race will

be run on its namesake bridge,

with the route shifting to

Penang’s new Second Bridge

(23.4km) from 2013. Visit

www.penangmarathon.gov.my

for more on the race, fees and

registration which closes 15

October 2012.

Penang Bridge Run

UNESCO has just named 26 new sites, bringing the total to

962 on their ever-growing World Heritage list, with several of

the newly nominated sites being considered long overdue.

These include the archeological sites at Lenggong Valley in

Perak, the Western Ghats range of Southern India, the

"Cultural Landscape" of Bali and the site of the Kublai Khan's

capital Xanadu, made famous by Marco Polo. For more on

the newly named sites visit www.unesco.org.

New UNESCO Sites

While there aren’t direct

flights to Christmas Island

from Singapore, direct KL -

Christmas Island connec-

tions (a 2.5-hour flight) on

Christmas Island Air have

just kicked off on 7 July – in

time for the annual Bird

Week (1-8 September) and

the mass crab migration

throughout December. Visit

www.christmas.net.au for

more.

Christmas is Coming

Hua Hin's abuzz with upcoming events from July-September, including

the 11th anniversary of the King’s Cup Elephant Polo charity tourna-

ment from 12-16th September that's showcasing 12 teams and

players from over 15 countries, as well as the Hua Hin + Chaam Golf

Festival, held throughout August and September and running across

10 courses including the Royal Hua Hin and Banyan. During this

time, green fees are at THB800 for 18-holes on all courses (irregardless

of weekday or weekend), with various resorts offering additional

packages. Visit www.tourismthailand.org/sg for more.

Hua Hin Buzz

A Singaporean was recently learning to snowboard at a ski resortin Japan, and after days of lessons was finally ready to challengethe beginner slope on his own. He was doing fine, feeling cool,whizzing past other skiers, until halfway down, he unexpectedly hitan icy patch. He tried to slow down but was sent flying face firstinto the hard-packed snow doing what's known in the industry asa "face plant".

Luckily his shoulder broke his fall, saving his face, but dislocatinghis joint. Needless to say, that put an abrupt end to his snowboardingadventure. But at least with adequate travel insurance covering hiscost of treatment, he could kick back and recuperate with hot sakeand onsen for the rest of the week.

Breaking Your Fall,Not Your Back

Losing ItYou've just arrived in Barcelona for that long-awaited holiday. And as you make your wayto your hotel, you realise you've lost yoursmallest but most important baggage of all- your passport holder. Inside was yourpassport, your extra stash of cash, your travelinsurance details and a mix of miscellaneousidentification cards.

Didn’t think it could happen toyou? Think again. That's whata seasoned traveller thought sotoo. He’d normally never makethese kinds of amateur mistakesof not keeping a more observanteye over his belongings, butearlier this year, after a long-haul flight from Singapore – thetime difference, and being pre-

occupied trying to navigate in a new city, ithappened to him. It's easy to fall victim topickpockets in a foreign city. It can happento anyone. Luckily, he was covered byadequate travel insurance – which assistedhim to replace his passport and traveldocuments quickly, plus reimbursement ofthe cost of replacement documents and stolencash too!

Fit to BurstTwo best friends were taking a big vacationtogether through Indochina. Eating well.Having a blast. Living like there's no tomorrow.Which very nearly was the case when oneawoke in terrible agony, thanks to a rupturedappendix.

Unlike a sprained ankle or a nagging cough,they instantly realised this wasn't the sort ofmedical condition that could wait a few days.

The friend needed immediate surgery, andwas evacuated back home on the nextavailable flight. Four days and almostS$40,000 later in emergency medical careand evacuation costs, the friends were ableto laugh over their close call, thanks to havingadequate travel insurance coverage.

Missed Train, Missed PlaneIn Singapore, missing your train means waitingfor the next MRT. No big deal, right? But whathappens in Europe, when you miss your trainfrom Italy to Germany? For starters, therewon't be another one coming along in 3-5minutes.

Missing international trains can put your entiretravel schedule out by a day or more. And itmay be caused by a labour strike, train me-chanical breakdown or bad weather whichare all beyond your control.

In the case of one Singaporean couple lastmonth – needing to reschedule their connect-ing flight home, all because of a delay thatwas caused by the mechanical breakdownof the train. At least with adequate travelinsurance, it helped them defray some addi-tional costs and provided some comfort forthe delay.

No news isn't always good news. Just because you don't hearabout travel mishaps and accidents, doesn't mean they're notgoing to potentially happen to you.

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TRAVELLERS’ TALES

Travel anecdotes have been compiled from Sports and Travel’s network of contributors.

WESTERN SICHUAN

Sichuan province in China is most prob-ably best known for giant pandas, spicyhot-pots, and other well-travelled touristattractions such as Jiuzhaigou and Mt.Ermei. However, there are many hiddengems in the more remote destinationslocated in the western (Ganzi) and north-ern (Aba) parts of Sichuan.

This is a land of Khampa Tibetans, andwas once an essential centre of Tibetanculture. A journey through this areatakes you past rugged mountainousareas, beautiful lakes, snowy peaks andforests dotted with the last strongholdsof Tibetan culture.

CHENGDU TO LITANGFrom Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, awestward journey takes you through thewestern highlands of the Qionglai mountainrange to Kangding via ancient villages ofQiang and Tibetan minorities.

From here, you'll traverse several high moun-tain passes over 4,000m before reaching thehistoric town of Litang, one of the highesttowns in China at 4,100m. Surrounded by agrassland plateau, this area was a key victorysite of the Red Army during their Long Marchin 1934-1935.

Nestled between the Shaluli and Daxueshanmountain ranges, the key sight here is theGanden Thubchen Choekhorling Monastery(founded in 1580 by the Yellow Hat sect),

from where you can get a sweeping pano-rama of Litang.

Those with an appetite for hiking can do a3-4 day trek to Mt. Genyen from nearbyZhangna Tibetan village.

XINDUQIAO TO YADINGEn route to Yading is Xinduqiao, with itsrustic Tibetan-styled houses, meanderingstreams and poplar trees.

Yading is renowned for its 3 sacred moun-tains (each named after a bodhisattva) whichare located in Yading Nature Reserve. The5,959m southern peak (Jambeyang) repre-sents wisdom, while the eastern peak (Cha-nadorje) of the same height represents wrath,and the tallest peak, Chenrezig (6.032m),represents compassion.

XINLONG TO DEGEXinlong marks the halfway point on the pro-vincial road between Litang and Ganzi. Thislaid-back town is where you can experiencethe authentic Khampa Tibetan culture – themen still wear fur hats and equestrian attirearmed with silver carved knives.

From here, you'll cross over the Picha Valleytowards the vast and silent landscape of theFriendship Grassland.

As you head towards Dege, you can see thesecluded Yarchen Monastery (Yaqing Si)along the way. The prominent feature of thismonastery is the island-like living area of thenuns, which is separated from the mainlandby a stream that runs through the area.

TEXT AND PHOTOSby Shangrila Adventure

Yarchen Monastery

Sertha

Litang

Xinluhai

DERGE TO GANZIThe last town in Sichuan before the highwaycrosses into Tibet, Derge is home to theworld's largest Tibetan Buddhism sutra print-ing house. Located within Parkhang monas-tery, its huge collection of printing blocksare a treasure trove of Tibetan life.

En route to Ganzi, you will cross the 5,200m-high pass of Mt. Chola, from where you cansee huge mani rocks standing along theshores of the shimmering Yulong Lake(4,050m), or Xinluhai. This high-altitude lakeis located at the base of Mt. Chola, and fromwinter to spring, its turquoise-blue colourforms a beautiful contrast with the surround-ing snow-capped mountains.

SERTHA TO LANGMUSIHeading east, you'll hit the town of Sertha,

home of the Larung Wuming Buddhistschool, with its striking cluster of red buildingsset within a remote valley. The largest andmost influential Buddhist school in the world,it is home to tens of thousands of lamas andnuns who live in small shoebox-sized wood-en houses. You may get to attend somemeditation sessions here.

Heading north, you'll hit the Ruoergai grass-land (the second largest grassland in China)which is a habitat for a variety of rare animalslike the pika and Himalayan marmot, as wellas home to Tibetan nomads who herd yaks,horses and mountain sheep.

Further along the way is Langmusi, whichstraddles the two provinces of Sichuan andGansu. Langmusi is made up of two keyTibetan monasteries; Dacang Nama (Kirti)

on the Sichuanside, and theDacang Langmu(Sertri) on theGansu side,both of whichare separated bythe Bailong river.Built in 1748, itis characterisedby Han Chinese,Tibetan and Hui(Muslim) archi-tecture (there isalso a mosque

nearby). In its heyday, Langmusihoused over 500 monks, whiletoday it has just over 130.

musi is a great spot for photog-raphy, with its magnificentmountainous backdrop andprominent red roofed buildingssurrounded by pine trees.

The second week of each NewYear is important here, as severalimportant festivals are held duringthis period, when devotees comefrom all around the region to cir-cumambulate the monastery ormountain, throwing prayer papers(longda) high into the air to prayfor good health.

The celebration ends when the large thangka(a large Buddha image) is hoisted up thegranite walls for everyone to make theirofferings.

LANGMUSI TO CHENGDUThe route returns to Chengdu via Maerkang,the capital of Aba prefecture, which was inimportant trade hub along the ancient teaand horse caravan route. A wide river cutsthrough town, and houses ascend along theslopes of the banks.

A short drive takes you past the Wenchuanarea before you are greeted by the brightlights of Chengdu city.

21

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Mt. Genyen

IN FRIGID AREASSnow and Ice: Do not eat without melting, as it

reduces your body temperature. Sea ice that's

gray/opaque/blue is salty, so desalinate it before

drinking.

AT SEASeawater: Never drink seawater before desalting

it with a kit or by collecting the steam off it (after

boiling). It takes 2 litres of body fluids to rid the

body of waste from 1 litre of saltwater, so avoid

drinking it if possible.

Rain: Catch rain in tarps or containers and purify.

IN THE DESERTGround: In a sand dune belt, water might be found

beneath the valley floor at the edge of dunes. Dig

holes deep enough to allow water to seep in.

Cacti: Cut off the top of a barrel cactus and mash

the pulp before sucking the juice from it.

Rocks: Periodic rainfall may collect in pools in

fissures of rock, so insert flexible tubing and siphon

water.

IN THE JUNGLE/FORESTDew: Droplets of water collect on tufts of grass,

so walk through a dew-covered meadow with

absorbent cloth around your ankles before sunrise,

and wring the water out.

Trees: Water from green bamboo is clear and

odourless; to get water, bend a stalk and cut the

top off. It will drip freely throughout the night.

Banana trees also provide water; cut the tree

down to a 30cm stump and scoop out the centre

of it so that the hollow-shape will be filled by water

from the roots.

Cycle touring is a great way to explore aforeign land. You can cover much moreground than hiking while being able tointeract with others and truly enjoy the sightsat a pace you are most comfortable with.

When you’re in a foreign land, you maynot know how many hours of sunlight youhave left for you to enjoy whatever you’redoing. Here’s a simple trick to help yougauge your remaning sunlight hours:

CHASING SUNSET

We all know that water is essential for survival. But if you’re out of water, there are

other sources that you can rely on (you still have to purify it before drinking):

Weight, size and durability are key to acomfortable ride. You simply don’t have thespace to carry anything too large and the moreyour gear weighs, the slower and more difficultyour trip will be. On the other hand if somethingbreaks, chances are you won’t be able to getit fixed right away. In general, nevercompromise weight for durability.

KEEP THE BIKE MOVINGWhen looking for amulti-tool make surethat you have a decentarray of hex keys (Allenkey). Most things onyour bike will requireeither a 4, 5 or 6 mmhex key.

Check to see if yourbike needs anythinglarger or smaller before

deciding on what tool works best for you.Beyond that you will also want to carry and

know how to use a chain tool (find out howmany turns it will take to push a pin out foryour speed of bike or buy a tool that will stopbefore your pin is pushed all the way out). Apersonal favourite is the Crank Brothers Multi17.

SHELTERLightweight tents have come a long way inthe last 7 years. Besides being lightweight,they typically have fantastic venting, makingthem quite comfortable in the heat but notgreat for cold weather. Bringsome warm base layers if itlooks like you might getcaught in coolconditions. Also thefloors are quitethin, so despitethe extra weightyou may wantto consider afootprint. If

lightweight is your thing, then the Big AgnesSeedhouse series is a great option.

EYEWEARGet polarized sunglasses. Spend a few extradollars and get sunglasses with replaceable

lenses and one polarized lens option.Polarized lenses are great in high glare

situations and if you are on a stretchwhere you are staring into the sun

you’ll still need to see the road pathor trail.

Ken grew up on thedoorstep of theCanadian wilderness,backpacking, pad-dling and rock climb-ing in this ruggedland. Armed with a

degree in recreational studies, he hasbeen working at Canada's premier out-door retailer for the last 9 years, puttinggear to the test whether it's cycling in-35ºC winters, running marathons ortravelling to the far reaches of the planet.

GEAR GUY: Ken Berg

TOURING

WATER (NOT) EVERYWHEREWATER (NOT) EVERYWHERE1. Extend your arms before you and bend

your wrists so your palms face you.

2. Stack one hand on top of the otherfrom the horizon to the sun.

3. Each finger represents approximately15 minutes. Each person's finger sizevaries, so for accurate results, do thisat home with a watch to see if you have10-, 15-, or 20-minute fingers.

Of course, this won’t work if you’reexperiencing the midnight sun. Bear inmind that the sun moves the size ofitself every 3 minutes.

Sun

Horizon

Approx. 15 mins

NORTHThe most mountainous region of Thailand,the northern region features plenty ofscenic spots to drive and take in the land-scape, or go for hikes into the cool ever-green, pine and deciduous forests. Headto Chiang Rai's Golden Triangle (for aview of three countries along a few trails)and Uttaradit's rolling Phu Sai Dao Na-tional Park on the border to Laos, whichonce sheltered various rebel groups. Thesedays, hiking trails and camping groundsdot the 200 sq.km. park. Along the way,you can enjoy backpacker atmosphere atMae Hong Son and drop in on a fewhistoric religious sites at Lamphun, Phay-ao and Nan.

Spread over 77 provinces across 514,000 sq.km., Thailand has far more to offerthan just the usual well-known destinations like Phuket, Chiang Mai and Ko Samui.Here are some of the places that few locals go to, and far less tourists frequent.THAILAND

BANGKOK

NORTHEAST

The northeast portion of the country is dotted with lots of archaeologicalsites, both manmade and natural. Millennia-old Khmer ruins can be foundat Phanom Rung Historical Park (situated at the edge of a 400m highvolcano), Phimai Historical Park (which is often compared to AngkorWat) and Khao Phra Wihan National Park (near the border to Cambodia).In Kaladin, you can check out their large collection of dinosaur bones atthe Phu Kum Khao Dinosaur Excavation Site. In between the sites,you can enjoy a great hike in the region's lush wildlife sanctuaries, likethose in Bueng Kan (which feature stone pools filled with lotus), Loeiand Chaiyaphum.

CENTRALDotted with many historic sites, thecentral region of Thailand is a testamentto the country's deep-rooted history.Some of the most famous spots includethe UNESCO sites of Sukhothai(Thailand's ancient capital with some ofthe best preserved temples dating backto the 13th century), Ayutthaya (withdozens of ancient sites dating from the14th century) and Kamphaeng Phet(with several ruins set in the jungle). Forunique experiences, visit Lopburi'sancient temples which are home to theannual monkey buffet, as well as the1.5km long Tham Lot cave atPhitsanulok, which is filled with 1,000-year old coffins.

SOUTHFor most visitors, the maindrawcard of the south is definitelyits many islands and beaches.While places like Ko Samui,Phuket and Similan Islands attracta large crowd, you can head toplaces like Phattalung (as analternative rock climbing location)and Satun (for island hopping).

WESTSet in Kanchanaburi province, the famousBridge over the River Kwai was builtbetween 1942-43 at the cost of over100,000 lives to move supplies betweenThailand and Myanmar. Here you can visitWWII memorials, including a war graveyard,historical park and the famous bridge itself.

GETTING AROUNDThere are several domestic carriers that offerdaily flights from Bangkok to most of the country.In addition, it's relatively easy to get around viarail and road via self-drives or buses.

© Benh Liew Song

This year’s annual Penang Bridge Inter-national Marathon (P.B.I.M.) on 18 No-vember, 2012, will mark the 28th install-ment of Malaysia’s biggest road race.

Crossing the famous 13.5km-long Pen-ang Bridge – which was the third-longest bridge in the world when it wasbuilt – the PBIM attracted 27,500 run-ners in 2011, and will likely hit a record30,000 runners this year.

ABOUT THE RACERace categories include Full-Marathon(Men’s, Women’s and Men’s Veteran), Half-Marathon (Men’s, Women’s, Men’s Veteranand Women’s Veteran), 10km Open (Men’sand Women’s), 10km Junior (Student Boy’sand Girl’s) and a 10km Fun Run. There areprizes for the top finishers in each categoryas well as the fastest Malaysian runners,with RM15,000 for the Men’s Open winner.

Beginning when the temperature is still rela-tively low (25ºC), the full marathon kicks offat 2am, with a 7-hour cut-off, while the halfstarts at 3am with a 3.5-hour cut-off. The

10km race starts at 6am and the Fun Runstarts at 7am both with a 1.5-hour cut-offs.

The top Men’s and Women’s finishes in 2011went to Kenyans Charles Kigen (2:21:56)and Margaret Njuguna (3:06:38).

JOINING THE RACEAll entrants must pre-register before raceday with normal and late registration feesfor the PBIM from RM80/RM90 (full-marathon), RM60/RM80 (half-marathon),RM40/RM50 (10km), RM20/RM30 (Fun Run);Normal registration is 1 June - 15 September,while late registration closes on 15 October.

For more information visitwww.penangmarathon.gov.my.

Last Call for The Penang BridgeFor anyone who previously wanted to runthe historic bridge but hadn’t, this year willbe the last chance. As of 2013, with thecompletion of the new Penang SecondBridge (23.4km), the PBIM will shift routesto the island’s longer, 2nd link meaning 2012is the final opportunity to run one of Malay-sia’s most iconic structures.

MORE THAN A MARATHONApart from its beaches and famouslocal foods like laksa, Penang’s well-preserved pre-war architecture meansthere’s no shortage of post-race activ-ities for culture vultures. Having beenawarded UNESCO status in 2008 forits outstanding global cultural value,Penang’s historic heart of George Townis home to South East Asia’s largestnumber of intact pre-WWII colonialbuildings, including hundreds of histor-ically significant structures such as thefamous E&O Hotel, local tycoon CheongFatt Tze’s “Blue Mansion” and entireneighbourhoods like Little India and theformer Japanese Quarter around Kam-pung Malabar.

Fairly compact, George Town can beeasily explored on foot or by trishaw,with one of the best options being thePenang Heritage Trust’s daily tours (fromRM60/person), through the historicneighbourhoods of Chulia Street andLittle India.

GETTING THEREPenang is extremely well-serviced withover 75 direct flights per week fromSingapore from carriers like Air Asia,Malaysia Airlines and Singapore Airlines.

For more information on Penang visitwww.visitpenang.gov.my.

PenangMarathon

IMAGES FROM Penang State Tourism