SAVE THE TREASURES OF NUBIA — I

PREFACE

In order to ensure a better use of the Nile, by exercisingcontrol at all seasons over a river which must bechecked when in flood and which must serve for irri-gation, navigation and the generation of power, theUnited Arab Republic has decided to construct a seconddam near Aswan. When the water is contained by thisnew dam, it will reach a considerable height; a hugelake will be formed, extending into Sudanese territory;all the great historical and artistic monuments and allthe archaeological sites in the Nubian valley are threat-ened with submersion for ever.

As a result of the construction of the High Dam, theSadd el Aali, which has just begun, at the conclusion ofthe first stage in the work the water level will rise from121 metres (393 feet) to 133 metres (491 feet); when con-struction is completed, it will reach 180 metres (585 feet)over several hundred kilometres of Egyptian and Sudan-ese territory (about 300 and 180 kilometres respectively).It is expected that the water level will reach 125 metres(406 feet) by mid-1964, which will result in the total orpartial submergence of a large number of monuments,temples, chapels, tombs, fortresses and other relics of thegreatest historical and artistic value, both in Sudan andin Egypt. The most notable among monuments to bedirectly affected are the Abu Simbel group and the groupon the island of Philae, both situated in the territory ofthe United Arab Republic.

Faced with these problems, the governments of theUnited Arab Republic and Sudan requested Unesco's as-sistance in appealing for international action to safeguardthese threatened treasures.

It is the opinion of the Executive Board of Unesco that,as the preservation of the cultural heritage of mankind isone of the Organization's main tasks under its Constitu-tion, it is the Organization's duty to grant the govern-

merits of the United Arab Republic and Sudan the assist-ance they ask for, so as to prevent the irreparable lossto mankind which would result if such priceless monu-ments and sites were submerged.

By agreement with the two governments, Unesco hasalready taken certain steps; in particular, it has sent ex-perts to Egypt and Sudan to study the problems on thespot and find solutions for them.

The problems attached to safeguarding monuments inEgypt differ from those of safeguarding monuments inSudan. There are more monuments in Egyptian Nubia,and they are of greater artistic value, so that from thispoint of view they are more important than the Sudanesemonuments. On the other hand, sites where excavationhas revealed burial grounds and ancient dwellings havebeen more thoroughly explored in Egyptian Nubia thanin Sudanese Nubia. Exploration of Egyptian Nubia mustbe completed and systematic work begun in Sudan, beforethe water closes over these regions for ever.

A beginning was already made with the task of safe-guarding these monuments in 1955, when the StudyCentre for tb.6'History of the Art and Civilization of An-cient Egypt was established in Egypt, with assistancefrom Unesco. The latest technical methods are being usedto make scientific surveys of the threatened monuments,showing as much detail as possible. Unesco has even un-dertaken to meet the cost of the aerial photographs re-quired to prepare a very large photogrammetric map ofEgyptian Nubia to a scale of 1/10,000. In addition, aUnesco expert has been working in 1959 on the prepa-ration of a similar map of Sudan.

Scientific and technical teams from the DocumentationCentre and large numbers of expert egyptologists fromother countries, who came under the auspices ofUnesco, are already at work on the site to collect allthe documentation possible before it is too late. An air-conditioned floating laboratory has been set up on a longbarge.

The experts propose to protect in situ those of theEgyptian monuments that cannot be moved and are ofthe greatest value (those at Abu Simbel and Philae).Other small or large monuments—temples, chapels ortombs such as those at Kalabsha, Dakka, Bet al Wali,Kertassi, Wadi es Sebua—are to be dismantled and re-moved to safety. Extensive excavations will be imme-

diately carried out in the region to be submerged, whichhas not yet been explored.

There are no monuments in Sudanese Nubia which canbe protected in situ, but some of the smaller ones, suchas the monuments at Buhen and Aksha, will have to bemoved.

International action as a result of Unesco's appeal willnecessarily take the form of financial contributions bygovernments, institutions, foundations and public organi-zations, and technical assistance in the form archaeolo-gical, engineering and technical missions. In return forthe international assistance it has requested, the UnitedArab Republic will authorize excavations in Nubia andother sites in Egypt, and will cede at least 50 per cent ofthe proceeds of these excavations, with the exception ofcertain items which are unique or essential for nationalmuseum collections, and will also cede certain ancientNubian temples for transport abroad, together with alarge number of antiquities which are State property.

In its turn, the Government of Sudan will cede 50 percent of the proceeds of excavations in the threatenedregion, in return for the international assistance it hasrequested.

The purpose of this collection of photographs is to pu-blicize the campaign Unesco has launched to safeguardthe invaluable treasures of Egypt and Sudan and to pre-serve this heritage for all mankind.

1. Map of the Nile ValleyThe Nile is more than 6,500 km. (4,000 miles) long; itrises in Lake Victoria, then flows through Uganda, Sudanand Egypt, and finally into the Mediterranean. Nubialies on either side of the present frontier between Egyptand Sudan. It is historically interesting because of themany human societies, with different cultures and ofvarious origins, which have left their mark there, someof them dating from over 4,000 years ago. This couldwell be the cradle of our Mediterranean civilizations,which were founded and flourished along the banks ofthe Nile, the course of all life in this region. The fateof the monuments in the Nubian valley cannot be sepa-rated from the problem of water. Should the temples,sanctuaries and monuments now threatened with sub-mersion be sacrificed to provide the parched land withthe water required to feed a rapidly growing numberof inhabitants and to supply the needs of growing indus-tries? This Was the cruel dilemma that faced the autho-rities responsible for the development of the Nile Valley.

Desiring to safeguard these monuments which arepart of our common heritage, the Government of theUnited Arab Republic and the Government of the Repub-lic of Sudan requested Unesco to secure for them theinternational assistance which is essential for the suc-cess of this tremendous task. The Director-General, ofUnesco launched an appeal to governments and publicand private institutions, and to the general publicthroughout the world. This collection of pictures is in-tended to make the problem clear, and to give an ideaof many of the beautiful monuments to be found inNubia. A few words will be added as to the measureswhich the experts propose to take in order to safeguardthese monuments, thanks to international assistance.

2. Women carrying water in the desertNot far from the Nile lies the desert, where every dropof water is precious and has to be brought long distancesby the most primitive forms of transport. It rains ononly a few days in the year.

O. The ancient 'Sakieh' or water-wheel

The country on both banks of the Nile, however, is richand fertile, because the water is full of silt. From earlytimes the Egyptians have been familiar with irrigationsystems by which new land can be brought under cul-tivation. Today, however, something more than theseprimitive methods is needed.

4 . The Aswan Dam

At the beginning of this century it became necessary toprovide Egypt with a permanent irrigation system, toprevent all the water in the river from flowing into thesea. At the end of the month of July, the metal sluice-gates of the present Aswan Dam, which was built be-tween 1899 and 1902 and twice raised, are opened, sothat the life-giving water can flood the parched fieldsnorth of the dam.

5 . Land red with Nile mud, and field with new greengrowth

As the flood waters recede in Nubia, the river banksbecome green again. The picture shows the extremelyfertile red silt deposited by the Nile. As soon as thewater has subsided, the peasants begin to cultivate theground. The white line on the rocks marks the level ofthe river during the nine months when it is in flood.

6. MapTo increase the capacity of the present reservoirs, there-fore, the United Arab Republic decided to construct aHigh Dam, the Sadd el Aali, a few miles above the pre-sent dam. The shaded part of the map shows the sizeof the artificial lake, 500 kilometres (about 310 miles)long, which will be formed, and which will completelysubmerge several hundred sites in Nubia on both sidesof the frontier between Egypt and Sudan. Once theHigh Dam is completed, the water level will NEVER below enough for these sites and temples to be uncovered.

That is the reason for the urgent appeal being launchedby the Director-General of Unesco.

7 . Philae when above water

This is the blue- and pink-hued island of Philae, soonafter it has emerged from the water beneath which itis submerged for nine months of the year. Its templeswere built by several royal heads, including the Pha-raoh Nectanebo I, of the XXXth dynasty (about 360 B.C.),the Ptolemies and the first Roman emperors. The islandwas dedicated to the worship of Isis.

When the High Dam is finished, Philae will be caughtbetween the new dam and the old one; throughout theyear the monuments on the island will be above waterduring the day-time, but their bases will always be un-der water at night, in order that the turbines of the olddam may generate electricity. Thus, several times a daythe level will rise and fall 4 metres (13 feet), with theresult that the foundations of the monuments will beeroded and will eventually disintegrate. To protect thesacred island, therefore, it is proposed to build low dykesaround it, thus forming an artificial lake, from which theisland would emerge for ever, in its former setting.

O. Colonnade

The famous colonnade built by Roman emperors, leadingto the Temple of Isis. The eye travels towards the landing-stage from which the statue of Isis was carried in pro-cession along the Nile, and on to the background ofgranite rock on the edge of the valley.

9 . First pylon

This is the first pylon of the Temple of Isis, with twogranite lions, dating from the first millennium B.C., infront of the entrance door. The bas-relief shows thegoddess Isis with Horus and Hathor.

10. Partially submerged Temple of MsView of the Temple of Isis in October, when it is sub-merged by the silt-red water after the sluice-gates of theAswan Dam have been closed.

1 1 . Kiosk of TrajanThe portico of the Egypto-Roman Kiosk of Trajan, with

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its fourteen columns, photographed during the seasonwhen the island is covered by the waters of the Nile.

I.Z. Detail of the colonnade of the MammisiPartially submerged, in the court of the Temple of Isis.To the Mammisi, or House of Birth, the mother-goddesscame to give birth to her son Horus, who is identifiedwith the Pharaoh himself. The human figures with cows'ears adorning the abaci are characteristic of Hathoriccapitals, which are associated with the cult of femaledivinities.

1 3 . Bas-relief showing a sacred boatThe goddess Isis' sacred boat, a bas-relief on the GreatTemple. On all holy occasions, the idol of Isis was takenfrom its tabernacle and transported to the near-by islandof Bigeh, where it presided over the solemn libationsat the tomb of Osiris, brother and husband of the god-dess. Sometimes it was taken to sanctuaries farther south.

14. Philae under waterFor nine months in the year, the traveller followingthe Nile upstream to the south of Aswan sees only theupper part of the first pylons of the Temple of Isis andbuoys drawing attention to the danger for shipping.

15. Kiosk of KertassiWe have now reached the Kiosk of Kertassi, which haspartly collapsed, 45 kilometres (about 28 miles) south ofthe First Cataract. It dates back to the earliest buildingson Philae. The Kiosk could be transported to the Nubianoasis which it is intended to create in the desert, at thelevel of Kalabsha, and where several temples will beset up.

16. Quarry at KertassiThe wall in front has a monumental doorway leadingto a small recess forming a naos. This quarry providedthe stone used in the building of the Philae temples.Around the doorway are dedicatory inscriptions in Greek,the oldest of which date from the Antonine period.

17. Bet et Wali from a distanceThe small temple of Bet el Wali, which was hollowedout of the top of the cliff and commands a magnificent

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view of the Nile, was founded by Rameses II. A villagelies around it.

l o . Bet el Wali, entrance to the temple

The temple of Bet el Wali, which is subterranean, isalmost entirely hollowed out of the rock. The pictureshows the entrance to the temple. The experts considerthat it would be feasible to cut away the stone, take thewalls out of the cliff and reassemble the temple in anoasis to be created west of Kalabsha.

19. KalabshaThe temple of Kalabsha, 56 kilometres (35 miles) fromthe First Cataract, is the largest Graeco-Roman construc-tion in Nubia, except for Philae. Preserved almost in itsentirety, it has many other buildings associated withit—landing-stages, quays, Mammisi (birth houses) andvarious chapels. The whole sanctuary may be transportedstone by stone to the near-by oasis.

2 0 . Expert at work inside temple

Unesco expert, attached to the Documentation Centre,studying architectural details in the temple of Kalabsha.

21 . DendurDendur is one of the most charming small sanctuariesdating from the Graeco-Roman period. It is dedicated totwo people who were deified after drowning. Augustushimself worshipped them. Dendur was converted into aChristian church by the Copts. This is one of the templesthe Egyptian Government proposes to offer as a grant,in return for foreign aid.

22. Gerf HusseinGerf Hussein is a temple dedicated by Rameses II to Ptah.It is hewn out of the rock, with the exception of a court,adorned with a peristyle, the ruins of which are shownin this picture. The intention is to remove some of thefeatures to museums.

2iO. Gerf Hussein

An Osirian pillar depicting Rameses II, in the court ofthe temple of Ptah.

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24. DakkaThe Roman sanctuary dedicated to Thoth, at Dakka. Itwas begun in the Ptolemaic period by King Ergamenesof Ethiopia. This is the only temple in Nubia facingnorth. It is shown just before the annual submersionin mid-October. By the end of November, nothing can beseen except the top of the cornice of the pylon. In orderto save the temple of Dakka, it is hoped that it can betransported stone by stone to one of the two oases to becreated, along with other temples such as Bet el Waliand Kalabsha.

Ao. Expert working by electric light

In winter, work is done on temples more than 120 metres(390 feet) above sea level, but some of the monuments,such as Philae, Kalabsha, Kertassi and Dakka, which arelower down, are covered by the waters of the dam, andare exposed only in summer. Surveys can only be madeover a period of six to eight weeks. During the day, theheat is so intense—often above 50°C. (122°F.)—that workis impossible. It is therefore often done at night, by thelight of projectors.

26 . Wadi es Sebua from a distance

The temple of Wadi es Sebua was dedicated by Rameses IIto the god Amon. It lies in a bend of the Nile, on thegolden sand characteristic of Nubia, beneath a blue andcloudless sky. Wadi es Sebua presents a different prob-lem from that of the preceding temples. As it is hewnout of sandstone and is in very bad condition, it cannotbe saved.

27 . Wadi es Sebua, DromosThe name of this temple—The Valley of the Lions—comes from the sphinxes which line the sacred avenue,or dromos, leading to the landing-stage on the Nile. Itis the only sanctuary in which an avenue of this kindhas been preserved.

^O. The drowning sphinx

One of the sphinxes with lions' bodies, half submergedby the water. The experts propose to transport both thesphinxes from the dromos and the statues to a safe place,and to remove some Christian paintings from the inner

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walls of the temple. The splendid reliefs in the pronaosand sanctuary will also be removed.

29. DerrThe great temple of Derr is almost entirely hewn out ofthe rock, on the right bank of the river. It, too, was con-structed by Rameses II, but it was dedicated to the thirdgod of the Empire, Re. The Government of the UnitedArab Republic proposes to transport the temple wall bywall to museums in other countries, in recognition ofthe work done by those who will be co-operating in savingthe monuments of Nubia.

OU. Excavation at AtnadaIn the last year, excavations have been made in EgyptianNubia, by Germans at Amada—as seen in the picture—by French at Wadi es Sebua, by Italians at Ikhmindi andby Egyptians at Aniba. The results have made it clearthat much more is to be found buried in this region. Someparts of Sudanese Nubia may well be called 'the archaeo-logists' terra incognita'. No systematic excavation hasbeen carried out so far in this part of the Nile Valley,which will vanish for ever beneath the waters of theriver. Few of the sites in the threatened part of SudaneseNubia have been even partially explored.

o l . BuhenProfessor Walter B. Emery's recent discovery of a re-markable fortress dating from the Middle and New King-doms at Buhen, 345 kilometres (220 miles) south ofAswan, shows what valuable discoveries may result fromarchaeological investigations in Sudan. The photographshows the remains of this fortress, which was built ofunbaked brick. Like all the Nubian fortresses, it cannotbe moved, and will be submerged by the waters.

oJi, BuhenAnother view of the fortress of Buhen, which standson a cliff overlooking the Nile. As was required in thistype of building, it has a chapel where the garrison wor-shipped its god. In this case, it is a small temple dedicatedto Horus, and built 3,000 years ago.

So. Relief in the temple of BuhenOne of the remarkable painted reliefs in the temple of

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Buhen. It dates from the XVIIIth dynasty (the time ofQueen Hatshepsut and King Thutmosis II). II will beremoved to safety.

34. SemnaThe Semna and Kumma sites include temples dating frombetween 1500 and 1400 B.C. This is detail of the temple ofKumma, which was dedicated to Khnoum and Sesos-tris III, and built by Thutmosis III. The Antiquities Ser-vice of the Republic of Sudan will decide upon removalof the temple to another site.

35. The Abu Simbel groupThe largest sanctuary built by the Pharaohs in Egyptianand Sudanese Nubia and the culmination of our journeyis the Abu Simbel group in Egyptian Nubia, 280 kilo-metres (175 miles) from the First Cataract.

Rameses II chose this geographically and strategicallyadmirable situation as a site for the Holy of Holies. Itconsists of two temples cut into the rock, the temple ofRameses II and the temple of Nefertari. They lie on eitherside of an expanse of golden sand—seen in the middle ofthe picture— which runs down from an amphitheatre ofpink sandstone.

36. Great templeThe great temple of Abu Simbel, one of the masterpiecesof world architecture, includes four colossi of Rameses II.They have been there for over 3,000 years, on each sideof the door in the facade of the temple dedicated by thePharaoh to the gods Horus, Amon and Ptah and to hisown deified image. The colossi are 20 metres (65 feet)high, their mouths measure 1.10 metres (3 feet 7 inches),and their faces from ear to ear 4.17 metres (over 14 feet6 inches). The royal children are visible between thefeet of the four colossi. The head of the second colossuswas broken centuries ago. Everywhere in this temple arestatues and reliefs with Rameses' features. Above theentrance door is the sun god, Ra Horakhti. At certaintimes of the year the first rays of the sun stream into theinterior of the Great Temple, bathing with their goldenlight first the huge Osirian pillars and then, in succession,according to the season, the four statues of the Holy ofHolies.

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3 7 . Foot of one of the colossiThis detail—a foot with a human figure to indicate thescale—is reproduced to give an idea of the size of thiscolossus of the Great Temple. Beneath the bird can beseen part of the bas-relief which shows a group ofprisoners-of-war from the south.

o o . Detail of bas-relief showing prisonersThe figures carved on this relief more than 3,000 yearsago are of exceptional grace and beauty. The racial typesare remarkably clearly portrayed.

o " . Osirian pillarsWithin the Great Temple is an inner underground court,18 metres (58 feet 6 inches) deep. The temple containseight Osirian pillars representing the god Osiris with thefeatures of Rameses II. The walls are covered with bas-reliefs of scenes from the public life of the Pharaoh. Thepicture shows the head of one of these statues.

40 . Temple of the QueenThe temple of Nefertari or Small Temple, to the north,was dedicated by Rameses II to his favourite wife, QueenNefertari, and to the goddess Hathor. On the facade,beside each colossus of the King and Queen, are smallfigures in relief depicting the children of the royal couple.

4 1 . Great Temple from aboveThe Great Temple of Abu Simbel, which is cut into thesandstone, goes back 53 metres (172 feet) into the cliff. Asthe rock is in bad condition, and particularly because thetemple goes so far back into the rock, it will have to beprotected in situ, as will the Temple of the Queen. Theexperts are in favour of constructing an earth and rock-fill dam, abutting on the cliff face at two points 700 metres(758 yards) apart. The dam would provide protection forboth temples, and the trees and stretch of water in frontof them would remain. In this way the temples would bepreserved in their natural setting, at the tip of the penin-sula formed by the rock from which the temples werehewn. It is true that the sun would reach the facade ofthe temple later in the day than it has throughout thecenturies; but this project appears to offer a greater mea-sure of protection than any of the others considered.

For all these centuries the royal colossi of Abu Simbel

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have challenged the powers of evil by their glorificationof the sublime. How could we allow them to be destroyedin a few years by submersion beneath the muddy watersof the Nile? The international appeal launched by Unescoand addressed to 82 Member States MUST succeed if thetemples of Abu Simbel and all the threatened monumentsof Nubia are to be saved.

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LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS

No.

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3

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Description

Map of the Nile ValleyWomen carrying water in

the desertThe ancient 'Sakieh' or

water-wheelThe Aswan DamLand red with Nile mudMap of Nubian monumentsThe island or Philae when

Supplied by

UnescoUnesco-Almassy

AMNH*

AMNHGhr. Desroches-NoblecourtUnescoChr. Desroches-Noblecourt

above water8 Philae: colonnade leading

to' the Temple of Isis9 Philae: first pylon of the

Temple of Isis10 Philae: partially submerged

Temple of Isis11 Philae: Kiosk of Trajan12 Philae: detail of the colon-

nade of the Mammisi13 Philae bas-relief showing a

sacred boat14 Philae under water15 Kiosk of Kertassi16 Quarry at Kertassi17 Bet el Wali from a distance18 Bet el Wali, entrance to the

temple19 Kalabsha20 Kalabsha: expert at work

inside temple21 Dendour22 Gerf Hussein23 Gerf Hussein: Osirian pillar24 Dakka25 Expert working by electric

light26 Wadi es Sebua from a

distance

1. B.C. Expedition of the AMNH.

Chr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Chr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Chr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Chr. Desroches-NoblecourtChr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Chr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Chr. Desroches-NoblecourtChr. Desroches-NoblecourtChr. Desroches-NoblecourtUnesco-AlmassyChr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Jean Van der HaagenChr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Chr. Desroches-NoblecourtUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyChr. Desroches-NoblecourtChr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Unesco-Almassy

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No.

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293031323334353637

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3940

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Description

Wadi es Sebua, DromosWadi es Sebua: the drowning

sphinxDerrExcavation at AmadaBuhenBuhenRelief in the temple of BuhenSemnaThe Abu Simbel groupAbu Simbel: Great TempleAbu Simbel: foot of one the

colossiAbu Simbel: detail of bas-

relief showing prisonersAbu Simbel: Osirian pillarsAbu Simbel: Temple of the

QueenAbu Simbel: Great Temple

from above

Supplied by

Chr. Desroches-NoblecourtChr. Desroches-Noblecourt

Unesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-AlmassyUnesco-Almassy

Unesco-Almassy

Chr. Desroches-NoblecourtUnesco-Almassy

Unesco-Almassy

Published in I960 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific andCultural Organization, place de Fontenoy, Paris-7". Printed in Franceby Union Typographique, Villeneuve-Saint-Georges (Seine-et-Olse).© Unesco 1960 MC(NUB)60/VI.18/A