s role in sustainability

A Fashion Merchandisers Role in Sustainability

Thomas McDonald

FMM-325

Southern New Hampshire University

How can Fashion Merchandisers find a way to adapt our industry to become more self-

reliant and use less resources while continuing to increase sales? As we look into the future of

the fashion industry, the concept of buying products has begun to lead us into a straining of the

resources required to manufacture, distribute and sell this merchandise. The trend towards

sustainability is not a passing fad, many people in this industry see this as a means to sustain

long term growth in the fashion industry. Several merchants and designers are adopting concepts

of sustainability and adaptability into their business plans; however, buyers target success by

being able to acquire goods for sale at the best prices possible. However, the demand for

renewable and alternative materials from governments and consumers is on the increase which

makes marketing sustainable practices by retailers and their manufacturers a greater necessity.

Employees play a big role in the marketing success of sustainable products, and making sure the

merchandisers and buyers are ahead of the curve is important (Conroy, A. 2008). Currently, there

are several industry as well as educational program out there that provide information and

instruction in sustainability. You may have employees that are already savvy in sustainability;

however, the buyer that purchases denim for 20 years may not have much background on what is

happening with sustainability in denim manufacture. The goal will be to convince them to buy

more sustainable denim fashions. The objective is for the Merchandiser to communicate to

Fashion Buyers that sustainability is not just a passing trend but the future of fashion and retail

going forward and making a sustainability campaign a reality.

The first factor that merchandiser can use to convince a buyer to buy more eco-friendly

products is profitability. Whereas other socially marketing events will do not provide a direct

positive impact. Selling products that were made with recycled materials or made by companies

that practice eco-friendly manufacturing policies are the only kind of social initiative that show

up directly in the bottom line (Mukumbi, K. 2013). Companies that buy products that have

recycled materials will often find that cause they used less resources to be manufactured,

recycled products. These products often allow the manufacturer a higher return on their

investment and in turn they will pass it along to their vendors. Effective marketing of these items

will turn sales of eco-friendly products into profits. The way to begin this effective marketing is

to appoint someone in your organization to focus on demand enhancement, communicate

improvements in sustainability, and make those efforts a priority (Silberman, J. 2012).

The second factor overall to provide greater sustainability for companies, their

merchandisers and the buyers is pressure from governments and consumers who are wanting

greater responsibility from manufacturers and vendors (Miller D., Merrilees B., 2013).

Governments around the world not just in developed countries but developing countries like

China are beginning to see impacts manufacturing has on the environment globally and in their

own back yards. Consumers are also becoming more socially conscious about the effect

manufacturing as a whole has on our environment and are beginning to demand more eco-

friendly solutions. The result of this that companies are now seeking to utilize sustainability as a

means to have a competitive advantage (Bartels, G. C., & Nelissen, W., 2002) as companies

beginning to have socially and environmentally conscious consumers become target customers.

In order to work these customers, the companies need to perceive that these in order to market to

them successful (Seretny, M., & Seretny, A. 2012). Companies will eventually need to market

their products based on the value systems of the consumers and the governments that represent

them.

The third factor is quality of the product, the old stigmatisms was that the recycled

products did not have the same quality or were being manufactured by companies that could not

manufacture the quantities needed to sustain the market (Rose, L. L., 2012, Feb 21). The number

of manufacturer’s that have sustainability initiatives increase every year. Ecco Domani started

theirs in 2008 (Karimzadeh, M., 2008). Timberland followed with its Earthkeepers line of men’s

shoes and boots (Timberland, 2009). Timberland shoes and boots were the first in the industry to

be designed to be completely disassembled for recycling. Even designers like Thom Felicia,

Stella McCartney and Fashion Houses like Alexander McQueen, Coach and Givenchy have

embraced the concepts of sustainability. Not only do manufacturers embrace sustainability

practices, those who provide raw materials like cotton (Ha-Brookshire, J., & Norum, P., 2011).

Even manufacturers such as Polartec and the North Face work together on the concept of

sustainability. The popular Denali winter jacket made by North Face uses recycled Polartec

fleece (Brickfish, 2009). Eco-friendly merchandise is all around but the buyer may not be

convinced being eco-conscious is the best thing, this is where the merchandiser can be of help to

buyer in convincing them to buy.

With these three factors involved in how a company can provide greater sustainability,

then there is a compelling case for sustainability; however, what is the best way to get everyone

in merchandise buying to buy and merchandise more eco-friendly products? The process should

be more through than just having a merchandiser trying to convince a buyer to buy sustainable

merchandise for sale. All employees are made aware of the importance why companies become

socially responsible. When it comes time to beginning the ordering process for the next season,

everyone involved in the process of developing a sustainable merchandise policy meets to

discuss where they can find companies that are providing sustainable practices. In order to

demonstrate the current impact of sustainability, the Merchandiser and the Buyer begin to

explore what the denim manufacturers the buyer purchases are already doing (Bartels, G. C., &

Nelissen, W., 2002). When the first vendor they research is Levi’s shows that since 2011 Levi’s

has instituted sustainability concerning use of resources (Ashkin, S. P. 2012). Levi’s currently

has a sustainability program that includes having supplies grow organic cotton with no

pesticides, and works with several initiative groups including the Better Cotton Inititive and

(BICEP) Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy and is looking to work with

vendors for a better sustainability (Silberman, J., 2012). Several other companies we purchase

denim from also believe in Corporate Social Responsibility and have marketing programs in

place. These companies that have well known sustainability programs include Phillips Van

Heusen, Nautica and Timberland. The Buyer now sees that several of the products they buy are

already utilizing sustainability practices and now is able to work with the vendors in finding

those items that benefit from sustainability practices.

Buyers by practice are focused on buying products for sale at the best price possible, this

doesn’t mean they cannot find products that do not use sustainable practices in their production.

Many companies today have sustainability plans already implemented that are already helping

reduce the impacts production have on the environment. The positive impacts these policies have

bring positive responses from the public and governments looking to make the world a cleaner

place. Also the bottom line for the company gets a boost as on the one hand production costs are

reduced making products cheaper in the long run as well as having attracting customers to buy

more products over time. Buyers can play a greater role for companies when they are a part of

the sustainability program and can be the link between companies in coordinating intercompany

initiatives. The result of this is the Merchandiser in the end may have been successful in

convincing the buyer to buy sustainably produced items even before he started, they might just

not been aware they are already buying them.

Resources:

Conroy, A. (2008). Marketing sustainability. Greenhouse Grower, 26(4), S8-S9. Retrieved from

http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/217043809?

accountid=3783

Mukumbi, K. (2013). Drivers of investment in corporate sustainability strategies of retailers and

manufacturers in developed and developing countries. (Order No. 3565378, Michigan State

University). ProQuest Dissertations and Theses, , 169. Retrieved from


accountid=3783. (1413319895).

Silberman, J. (2012). Demand enhancement: The new sustainability. Cotton International

Magazine, , 34. Retrieved from


accountid=3783

Dale Miller, Bill Merrilees, (2013) "Linking retailer corporate brand and environmental

sustainability practices", Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 22 Iss: 7, pp.437 – 443

Retrieved from http://www.emeraldinsight.com.ezproxy.snhu.edu/journals.htm?

articleid=17100973

Cao, H., Lisa, V. F., Farr, C. A., & Gam, H. (2006). An environmental sustainability course for

design and merchandising students. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 98(2), 75-80.

Retrieved from http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/

218151002?accountid=3783

http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/218151002?accountid=3783


Karimzadeh, M. (2008). Ecco domani adds sustainability to fashion foundation program. WWD,

196(12), 15-n/a. Retrieved from


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The timberland company; timberland takes sustainability one giant step forward with its first

recyclable footwear. (2009). Journal of Technology, , 397. Retrieved from


accountid=3783

Ha-Brookshire, J., & Norum, P. (2011). Cotton and sustainability. International Journal of

Sustainability in Higher Education, 12(4), 369-380.

doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/14676371111168287

Bartels, G. C., & Nelissen, W. (2002). Marketing for Sustainability : Towards Transactional

Policy-making. Amsterdam: IOS.

Seretny, M., & Seretny, A. (2012). Sustainable marketing - a new era in the responsible

marketing development. Foundations of Management, 4(2), 63.

doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/v10238-012-0011-1

Rose, L. L. (2012, Feb 21). Eco-friendly designs seek to leave stylish green imprint on fashion

industry. The Canadian Press. Retrieved from


accountid=3783

Brickfish(R); the north face(R) and polartec(R) launch social media campaign to promote green

living. (2009). Telecommunications Business, , 88. Retrieved from




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Ashkin, S. P. (2012). THE CHOICE IS YOURS. Industrial Safety & Hygiene News, 46(10), 60.

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