quality of yarn control.doc

8/14/2019 QUALITY OF YARN CONTROL.doc

1/20


2/20

Quality of yarn control d#nds u#on:Ty#s of fi&rs:

Natural fi&rscotton( fla8( sil/( and !oolr#rsnt t" ma;or

fi&rs a%aila&l to ancint ci%ili


3/20

1ynt"tic fi&rs did not a##ar until muc" latr' T" first

synt"tic( rayon( mad from cotton or !ood fi&rs( !as

d%lo#d in 232( &ut not commrcially #roducd until 2322'

Almost a "alf a cntury latr( nylon !as in%ntd( follo!d &y

t" %arious forms of #olystr' 1ynt"tic fi&rs rducd t"

!orld dmand for natural fi&rs and 8#andd a##lications'

Until a&out 2-66( yarn !as s#un on t" s#indl and !"orl' A

s#indl is a roundd stic/ !it" ta#rd nds to !"ic" t" fi&rs

ar attac"d and t!istd+ a !"orl is a !i$"t attac"d to t"

s#indl t"at acts as a fly!"l to /# t" s#indl rotatin$' T"

fi&rs !r #ulld &y "and from a &undl of cardd fi&rs tid to

a stic/ calld a distaff' In "and cardin$( fi&rs ar #lacd&t!n t!o &oards co%rd !it" lat"r( t"rou$" !"ic"

#rotrud fin !ir "oo/s t"at catc" t" fi&rs as on &oard is

#ulld $ntly across t" ot"r'

Princi#ls and ac"inry for Yarn Production:

1ta#l fi&r yarns can & #roducd from natural fi&rs as !ll as

from c"mical fi&rs cut to sta#l ln$t"' In contrast to t"


4/20

c"mical fi&rs( !"ic" can & manufacturd industrially in

almost %ry dsira&l ln$t" and s"a# t" %arious natural

fi&rs ar a%aila&l only in s#cific ln$t"s( tittrs( and cross=

sctions( and !it" crtain crim# and strssD strain &"a%iour

d#ndin$ on t"ir ty# and ori$in'

T" d%lo#mnt of s#innin$ #rocsss !as &asd on t"s

c"aractristics' T"is is anot"r rason t"at t" #ro#rtis of

c"mical fi&rs ar oftn ad;ustd to t"os of natural fi&rs so

t"at t"y can & mi8d or &lndd and also #rocssd on

con%ntional s#innin$ mac"ins'

T" functions of t" s#innin$ mac"ins ar t" #r#aration oft" fi&rs for t" actual s#innin$ #rocss( t" or$ani


5/20

dcrass t" strn$t" of sta#l yarn' T" continuous

filamnt yarn also r*uirs a small amount of t!ist in

ordr to a%oid t" frayin$ of filamnts and to incras

a&rasion rsistanc' o!%r( t!istin$ t" continuousfilamnt yarn rducs t" strn$t" of t" yarn G2=@H' Yarn

is oftn #ly=t!istd in a dirction o##osit to a sin$l

yarn t!ist to im#ro% %nnss( strn$t"( lon$ation(

&ul/inss( lustr and a&rasion rsistanc( and to rduc

t!ist li%linss( "airinss and %ariation in strn$t" T"

t!istin$ of fi&rs strands ar carrid out on a ro%in$

fram( rin$ fram( rotor s#innin$ and ER?F s#innin$mac"ins tc' T"is t!istd strand "as to & !ound on t"

dli%ry #ac/a$ in a crtain form for asy !it"dra!al of

t"s strands in t" n8t #rocss' 1inc t" o#n nd oft" yarn is rotatd in t" rotor and ER?F s#innin$

systms( t" dli%ry #ac/a$ "as to & rotatd a8ially to

!ind t" yarn' T" t!istin$ and !indin$ o#rations ar

s#aratd in t" o#n=nd s#innin$ G5H' o!%r( t"is is

not #ossi&l on a ro%in$ fram or a rin$ fram'

T"r s"ould & t!o rotatin$ lmnts ,t" s#indl and

tra%llr or flyr and &o&&in0 in ordr to t!ist and !ind

t" strand on t" #ac/a$' T" !indin$ rat s"ould &

*ual to t" dli%ry rat from t" draftin$ d%ic' As t"

!indin$ on t" diamtr of t" #ac/a$ %ariscontinuously t"rou$"out t" #rocss( t" diffrnc in


6/20

1#d &t!n t" t!o lmnts also "as to & %aridcontinuously' 1inc t" dli%ry rat is constant( t"

#roduct of !indin$ on diamtr and t" s#d diffrnc

&t!n t" t!o rotatin$ lmnts s"ould & /#t

constant' On a ro%in$ fram( t"is is ac"i%d &y ad;ustin$

t" &o&&in s#d continuously and /#in$ t" flyr

s#d constant( !"ras in rin$ s#innin$( only t"

s#indl is rotatd at a constant rat and t" tra%llr is

dra$$d around t" rin$ &y t" yarn'

airinss of Yarns:

airinss of yarns containin$ cotton !as com#ard !it"

yarns formd from rcycld !ast ,fa&ric !ast0' any&lndd !as formd a0 2st &lnd contains 367 rcycld

!ast( &0 @nd &lnd contain 467 rcycld !ast


7/20

,&lndin$ in &lo! room0( c0 -rd &lnd contains 367

rcycld !ast and 267 rusd cotton !ast ,&lndin$

!it" card sli%rs0 d0 5t" &lnd contains 367 rcycld

!ast and 267 rusd cotton !ast ,&lndin$ in dra!fram0'airinss tst !as masurd to com#ar &t!n

diffrnt yarns &lndd formd and 266 7 cotton !ast

yarns( and found t"at as yarns count incras( t"

"airinss dcrass( and as t" #rcnt of rcycld !ast

incras( t" "airinss incras( and #roducd yarns from

#ur cotton "a% lo!r "airinss( and for all yarns(

"airinss dcras as yarn count incras for all t!istfactors and for #roducd yarn of &lnds No' ,@0( ,-0( and

,50 "airinss incras as t" No' of mc"anical #rocss

incras for all yarns counts'

?FF?CT OF EIFF?R?NT ARIA9L?1 ON COTTON YARN?NE 9R?AJAK?:

Alt"ou$" rotor s#innin$ is no! a !ll=sta&lis"d

manufacturin$ #rocss( t"r ar #ro&lms t"at must &sol%d if t" full #otntial of t"is mt"od of s#innin$ is

to & 8#loitd' For 8am#l( rotor=s#un yarns "a% lo!tnsil strn$t"s du to t"ir structur( and succssful


8/20

rotor s#innin$ is still rstrictd to t" coars=and

mdium=count ran$' In addition to t" yarn %alus(

runnin$ &"a%iour is of $rat im#ortanc for %ry "i$"=

s#d rotor s#innin$( #layin$ a main rol in its%aluation'

T" flo! of fi&rs is intrru#td &y t" #rocss of fi&r

s#aration( &ut t" fi&rs ar rcollctd on t" so=calld

collctin$ surfac of t" rotor as a ri&&on( !"ic" is t"n

con%rtd into yarn &y mans of t" rotatin$ o#n yarn

nd' All t" fori$n &odis in t" fi&rous assm&ly( suc"as n#s( &olls( dusts( "uman "air( #lastics tc'( ar also

d#ositd and #rssd &y cntrifu$al forc a$ainst t"

collctin$ surfac of t" rotor' T" dnsity of t"sim#uritis is oftn $ratr t"an t"at of t" fi&rs+ it

"a##ns t"at t"y stay on t" collctin$ surfac aftr t"

ri&&on of fi&rs "as &n !it"dra!n &y t" o#n yarn

nd'

9y t" ffct of cntrifu$al forc( t" incrasd mass of

t" im#urity cannot & o%rcom &y t" tor*u of t"

rotatin$ yarn nd( t" continuity of fi&r flo! is

intrru#td and so t" yarn &ra/s' If t" im#urity is of

small si


9/20

ta/=off no


10/20

lon$ation( tnacity( and t" num&r of faults( may

rsult'

Considration of ral s#innin$ conditions allo!s us to

stat t"at t" tm#oral tnsion %alus ar mor im#ortantt"an t" man %alus G2H' In%sti$ation into t" dynamic

forcs !"ic" act on rotor=s#un yarn carrid out &y

Kros&r$ an sour G@H confirmd t" occurrnc of

"i$"=fr*uncy ,s"ort=!a%0 yarn tnsion oscillations of

si$nificant am#lituds( !"ic" %n 8cd t" man

%alu of a&out -6 7' a8imum yarn tnsions dirctly

influnc t" num&r of yarn &ra/a$s( !"ic" in turndcras t" s#innin$ mac"ins fficincy and rais

yarn manufacturin$ costs G@H'

T" distinct influnc of yarn tnsion is %isi&l !"nanalysin$ t" strtc"in$ forcs of yarn' An incras in

yarn tnsion durin$ s#innin$ causs a dcras in t"

lon$ation of yarn o%r strtc"in$ to &ra/' T"is

influnc is %ry su&stantial( alt"ou$" t" yarn tnsion

%alus constitut only 267 =@67 of t" yarns &ra/in$

forc G-H' Tsts carrid out "it"rto s"o!d t"at s#innin$

tnsion is dtrmind &y t" rotors rotational %locity

and its diamtr G2( @( -( 3( and 26H' Furt"r 8#rimnts

and considrations ,conductd at t" E#artmnt of

Tc"nolo$y and 1tructur of Yarns0 allo!d us to dra!t" conclusion t"at t" cofficint of %ariation of yarn

tnsion is !ll corrlatd !it" t" cofficint of %ariationof linar dnsity of t" sli%r fdin$ t" s#innin$

mac"in( t" cofficint of %ariation of yarn linar

dnsity( and t" cofficint of %ariation of yarn tnacity

G5( 4( .( >( and H'

From in%sti$ations carrid out at t" E#artmnt of

Tc"nolo$y and 1tructur of Yarns at t" Tc"nical


11/20

Uni%rsity of Md GH( it also a##ars t"at t" mass

distri&ution of t" fi&r stram fdin$ t" rotor s#innin$

mac"in "as an ssntial influnc on t" irr$ularity of

t" yarns linar dnsity and on t" distri&ution oftm#oral tnsions durin$ s#innin$' ?%ry mass c"an$ in

t" fdin$ fi&r stram causs an incras or dcras in

t" irr$ularity of t" yarns linar dnsity( and t"s

#"nomna ar rflctd &y yarn tnsion c"an$s'

Not!it"standin$ t" numrous in%sti$ations and

t"ortical la&orations carrid out( no modl !"ic"!ould includ all t" #aramtrs of t" s#innin$ #rocss

and !ould lin/ t"s #aramtrs !it" yarn tnsion "as so

far &n d%lo#d'

T" modls so far la&oratd "a% only considrd t"

influnc of t" rotors diamtr and %locity and of t"

yarns linar dnsity( !it"out considrin$ t" *uality

#aramtrs of t" #roduct !"ic" fd t" s#innin$

mac"in' T" influnc of t" sli%rs linar dnsity !as

in%sti$atd only &y an 8#rimnt undr ral conditions'

All t"s considrations moti%atd us to undrta/ an

attm#t at d%lo#in$ a modl !"ic" !ould r#rsnt t"#"nomna occurrin$ durin$ t" #rocss of rotor yarn

formation as closly as #ossi&l' T"is modl s"ould alsota/ into account ,in a $nralisd !ay0 t" influnc of

t" follo!in$ #aramtrs on yarn tnsion durin$ t"

#rocss of rotor s#innin$:

T" rotors diamtr and %locity(

T" linar dnsity of yarn( and


12/20

T" *uality #aramtrs of sli%r fdin$ t" #rocss'

1?TTINK1 ANE 1PINEL? 1P??E1 For Yarn Quality:

T" s#indl s#d %ariation in t"is study !as &t!n 2-(466 to

23(466 r#m' T"r diffrnt s#indl s#ds c"an$d in ac"

count' As r$ards yarn "airinss( t" ffcts ar si$nificant(

"airinss incrasin$ !it" s#ds' T"is( in turn( could &

8#ctd to "l# to $o in for "i$"r s#indl s#ds ,in rin$ fram

!it"out incrasin$ nd &ra/s0' T"r diffrnt &ac/=


13/20

consumption during the production process of asample article, all etremely useful functions for-nitting machines& he SMAR terminal also allo%syou to set programmable length targets for anaccurate control of the collected yarn amount oneach individual position, during the yarnpreparation processes ./arn Preparing Processes0&1ltra feeder Main Applications: Soc-23osiery,Seamless, Flat 4nitting Machines, 5ooms .Cotton,Rachel, label and ribbon production,0&

Fibre(preserving cleaning efficiency:

6e deal gently and systematically %ith yourprecious ra% material& /ou are loo-ing for highmaterial yield and at the same time maimumcleaning performance and high output& he Reiterconcept is ideal for achieving this goal& 7peningand cleaning are performed step by step and arecoordinated in such a %ay that coarser impuritiesare removed before the net process stage, rather

than being bro-en up&


14/20

Finer trash particles are more difficult to removeand call for more intensive treatment& his is %hygentle reclining is so important&8ood opening as soon as the bale is bro-en,efficient precleaning and reproducible fine cleaningare the elements of the fibre(preserving concept%hich not only guarantees efficient cleaning, but atthe same time -eeps the increase in system leadsstep by step to a clean, lo%(nep supply of the nepcount in chec-&Precleaners, blenders and fine cleaners removedust at the same time, %hich ma-es complicatedauiliary machines unnecessary& 6ithouteception, all cleaning machines operate %ith onlyone roller& his preserves fibres and reducesservicing effort as %ell as maintenance andoperating costs& his tufts to the cards&

MA!9 FA15 $##C!79 F#A1R#S:Etct and analy


15/20

Ply

?nr$y Consum#tion in Yarn Production:

Yarn can & dfind as a t"in lon$atd structur in !"ic" fi&rs

"old ac" ot"r &y t" ffct of friction or t!ist' If t" yarn is

#roducd from sta#l fi&rs it is calld s#un yarn( ot"r!is it is

/no!n as continuous filamnt yarn' T" formation of s#un yarn

coms tru !"n t" &asic manufacturin$ #rocsss suc" as

o#nin$( clanin$( &lndin$( cardin$( draftin$ and s#innin$ ar

#rformd' In som systms( com&in$ and ro%in$ #rocsss ar

addd to t"s st#s' T" #ro#rtis and structur of yarn c"an$

not only accordin$ to t" #roduction st#s &ut also t" s#innin$

systm usd for manufacturin$'T" systm usd for yarn formation d#nds on suc" factors as

fi&rs to & usd( #ro#rtis of yarn to & #roducd and

conomic im#lications' T" s#innin$ systms can & classifid

as con%ntional and uncon%ntional' T" rin$ s#innin$ systm

can & considrd as con%ntional ,traditional0 systm !"ras

o#n=nd( !ra#( air=;t and slf=t!ist s#innin$ systms ar

uncon%ntional ,non=traditional0 systms' In all t"s systms(

t!istin$ and !indin$ t" yarn on t" #ac/a$ is formd &ya##lyin$ diffrnt mc"anisms' Alt"ou$" studis and

d%lo#mnts a&out n! s#innin$ systms $o on( t" rin$ and

o#n=nd rotor s#innin$ systms ar t" most !ids#rad

systm for yarn manufacturin$'

T" rin$ s#innin$ systm is t" oldst s#innin$ systm t"at

rmains dominant &caus of t" "i$" *uality yarns it #roducs'

Rin$ s#innin$ "as %arious ad%anta$s &sids disad%anta$s'T"is systm allo!s %arious ty#s and ln$t"s of fi&rs ,natural(

man=mad0 to s#in on a !id count ran$ from . T8 to 22 T8

B"ras t"is ran$ is &t!n 2> and 22 T8 in rotor s#innin$'

9y com&in$ o#tion( t" "i$" *uality com&d yarns !"ic" ar

smoot"r( &ri$"tr and mor com#act can & #roducd usin$ t"

rin$ systm' On t" ot"r "and( t" rin$ s#innin$ systm "as

t!o main #ro&lms' T" first is lo! #roduction s#d &caus of

frictional contact of rin$ and tra%llr( and t" yarn tnsion


16/20

causd( and t" scond is "i$" nr$y consum#tion t"at causs

"i$" #roduction costs'

anufacturin$ cost of yarn:

In todays com#titi% conditions( com#tin$ !it" ot"r

manufacturrs d#nds on #roducin$ "i$" *uality yarns !it"

rasona&l costs' No!adays( t" fr mar/t dtrmins t"

#ric of #roducts irrs#cti% of t" administration of s#innin$

mills' For t"is rason $ainin$ mor #rofit d#nds on

minimisin$ t" manufacturin$ cost of yarns' ?s#cially( c"a#r

yarns t"at ar #roducd &y Far ?ast countris suc" as C"ina(

Indonsia( dra! t" attntion of consumrs' T"is affcts ot"r

countris yarn manufacturrs n$ati%ly and su&;cts suc" ascost calculation and cost minimisation &com #rimarily

im#ortant' T" cost of yarn consists of s%ral factors suc" as

ra! matrial( nr$y or #o!r( la&our( ca#ital tc' T" cost of

yarn 8cludin$ ra! matrial is trmd manufacturin$ cost' T"

s"ar of t" factors in manufacturin$ cost c"an$s accordin$ to

t" yarn #ro#rtis( mac"in o#rational #ro#rtis and

conomical situation of t" s#innin$ mill'

Ra! matrial ,fi&r0 forms narly "alf of t" yarns total cost

and ot"r cost factors suc" as la&our( nr$y( ca#ital cost of

mac"ins( au8iliary matrial cost and !ast ma/ u# t"

rmainin$ #art' Aftr ra! matrial( ca#ital and nr$y costs "a%

t" "i$"st #ro#ortions in t" total' T" #o!r or nr$y cost

ta/s 37 s"ar of t" s#cific yarn total cost in Tur/y' T"is

s"ar incrass to 2>7 if t" ra! matrial cost is 8cludd'

1inc t" unit #ric of nr$y and la&our c"an$ ind#ndntlyfrom s#innin$ mill conditions( rducin$ t"s costs d#nds on

minimisin$ nr$y usa$ and la&our !a$s' 1inc t!istin$ is

accom#lis"d &y t" rotation of t" s#indl and &o&&in( t"

nr$y consum#tion of rin$ s#innin$ is "i$"r t"an t" ot"r

s#innin$ systms' In t" rin$ s#innin$ systm( nr$y is usd for

fdin$ t" ro%in$ to t" mac"in( draftin$ and rotation of t"

s#indl' At last( 47 of t" total #o!r r*uirmnt of a rin$

fram is consumd in dri%in$ t" s#indls( d#ndin$ on dtails


17/20

suc" as yarn count( #ac/a$ siH studid t" cost factors

!"ic" ma/ u# t" total #roduct cost for t" t8til industry

includin$ s#innin$( !a%in$ and finis"in$ and t" #roduct cost

of c"osn rin$ yarn &y usin$ m#irical formulas( ta/in$ intor$ard s#cific o#ratin$ conditions and slctd mac"in

#aramtr'

?nr$y is ncssary for ac" st# of s#innin$ #rocsss to dri%

mac"ins( air conditionin$ and li$"tin$( &ut t" "i$"st nr$y

consum#tion occurs durin$ t" s#innin$ #rocss in s#innin$

mac"ins G2-H' Anot"r study !"ic" "andld nr$y

consr%ation in t" t8til industry focusd on t" lctricity

consum#tion of ac" st# of rin$ s#innin$ for t" modrn andtraditional factory G2-H' Tara/cio$lu G25H s"o!d t"at lctrical

nr$y consum#tion of 2 /$ of yarn c"an$s &t!n @'>

/B")/$ and 5 /B")/$' Additionally( it !as #ointd out t"at

t"rmal nr$y altrnatin$ &t!n 2'2 )/$ and 5'> )/$ is

ncssary for #rocsss suc" as fi8ation &sids lctrical

nr$y nds' Knral assssmnt for nr$y consum#tion and

consr%ation in fi&r=#roducin$ and t8til industris !as don

&y Jim t al' G24H !"il dtrminin$ t" #o!r r*uirmnt of a


18/20

s#cific rin$ and o#n=nd s#innin$ mac"in !it" c"osn

mac"in #aramtrs'

1inc t" "i$"st #o!r is r*uird in s#innin$ mac"ins( many

studis "a% &n carrid out to dtrmin t" #o!r dmand of

s#innin$ mac"ins' Jraus and 1oliman G2.H attm#td to find a

$nral formula for calculatin$ #o!r)nr$y consum#tion #r 2

/$ yarn in rin$ and o#n=nd rotor mac"ins' It !as found t"at

in t" coars yarn ran$ ,T8S.60 t" o#n=nd rotor mac"in

ndd lss nr$y #r /$ of yarn t"an t" rin$ fram for !ar#

yarns( for finr yarns ,T8-60( on t" ot"r "and( t" o=rotor

mac"in dmandd mor nr$y #r /$ of yarn t"an rin$ fram'

It !as r#ortd t"at t" factors affctin$ t" #o!r dmand oft" rin$ systm !r rin$ diamtr( &alloon "i$"t( s#indl

s#d and tra%llr mass A s#cific formula !as d%lo#d to

dtrmin t" #o!r consum#tion of &ar s#indl ,!it"out

&o&&in0 &y Y G2>H' It !as s"o!n t"at oil rsistanc( u##r

&arin$ systm and friction &t!n footst# &arin$ and

s#indl &lad ti# caus t" #o!r consum#tion of t" s#indl

dri%in$ unit in t" rin$ s#innin$ systm' A Etaild study !as

don &y Tan$ t al' G2( 23H in ordr to dtrmin t"distri&ution of #o!r r*uirmnts durin$ yarn !indin$ in rin$

s#innin$' A $nral *uation for dtrminin$ t" #o!r

r*uirmnt of ayarn !indin$ systm !as sta&lis"d &y usin$

#aramtrs suc" as !indin$ on tim( yarn count( mass of t"

yarn !indin$ #ac/a$' Tan$ t al' G@6H also sta&lis"d a modl

&asd on an analysis of #o!r distri&ution for #rdictin$ t"

ratio of nr$y consum#tion to yarn=#roduction for a full

#ac/a$ durin$ yarn !indin$ in rin$ s#innin$' C"an$ t alt"ortically and 8#rimntally in%sti$atd t" ffct of yarn

"airinss on nr$y consum#tion and found t"at t" mor

"airinss t" yarn'

Producin$ yarn of r*uird *uality at com#titi% #rics:

T" mar/t ima$ of t" t8til industry of Pa/istan is #rci%d

fa%oura&ly in trms of *uality consistncy( fl8i&ility(

inno%ation( on tim dli%ry( "onourin$ assortmnt


19/20

commitmnts and aftr sals sr%ic "as &n m#"asisd &y

fori$n 8#rts in t"ir tc"nical #rsntations in sminars and

!or/s"o#s "ld rcntly in Jarac"i( Faisala&ad and La"or G2 to

.H' It "as also &n #ointd out t"at com#tition in t" fr trad

ra !ill & intns In ordr to sur%i% it is ncssary for all

sctors of t" t8til industry of Pa/istan to critically r%i!

#rocsss from t" ra!=matrials to t" finis"d #roduct sta$s

and ado#t strat$is aimd at im#ro%in$ mar/t ima$' In

#articular( t" #rsntations undr rfrnc "a% "i$"li$"td

t"at &ot" t" s#innin$ and t" !a%in$ sctors( &y and lar$( ar

not *ui##d at #rsnt !it" modrn mac"ins and ar(

t"rfor( "andica##d and una&l to #roduc yarn and clot" of

t" r*uird *uality at com#titi% #rics' T"s sctors ndimmdiat modrnisation for sur%i%al' Borld=rno!nd

mac"inry manufacturrs( #artici#atin$ in t"s sminars and

!or/s"o#s( also offrd assistanc and tc"nical su##ort in

#r#aration and finalisation of a##ro#riat modrnisation

#ac/a$s to suit t" r*uirmnts of indi%idual t8til

com#anis'

Conclusions:$omestic yarn producers %ill continue to bethreatened by competition from Asian countries, asthese countries continue to buy the latest tetilemachinery technology& 3igher domestic materialprices %ill not help, since the cost of the ra%material can represent up to ;< of the total costof producing the yarn& 1&S& yarn producers %ill

continue to form alliances %ith their customers andcustomers= customers to remain competitive& hetetile industry is also forming uni+ue partnerships&

he American etile Partnership is a collaborativeresearch and development program amongindustry, government, and academia aimed atstrengthening the competitiveness of the 1&S&industry&


20/20

Another continuing challenge for the industry %illbe compliance %ith stricter environmentalregulations& Recycling is already an issue andprocesses are under development to manufactureyarn from scrap material, including denim&

quality of yarn control.doc

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