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Mountainman's Caboose Log (Completed!)
Printed from: myLargescale.com Forums
Topic URL: http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17958
Printed on: 30 Nov 2005
Topic:
Topic author: MountainMan
Subject: Mountainman's Caboose Log (Completed!)
Posted on: 18 Oct 2003 00:11:13
Message:
Hey all,
Jumping on the rolling stock challenge bandwagon, I am scratchbuilding a Coahuila Y Zacatecas
narrow gauge caboose...
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That's the prototype, which ran on a Mexican narrow gauge line.
Mine won't be an exact copy, just trying to get it close, and it will be lettered for my railroad, the
"Gritty Creek & Browder". I do have plans that I found in a back issue of Narrow Gauge and
Shortline Gazette. I understand that one of the original CyZ cabooses (#151 I think) still survives
today at the Huckleberry RR in Flint Michigan, might be worth a roadtrip to see it...
Here's a quick picture with the framed walls temporarily clamped to the frame...
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So far I have the frame cut and assembled, the flooring is scribed basswood. The walls are framed
with 3/32" square spruce (just cause I had it handy) with sheet basswood in the areas that the
grab irons will go, still have a couple of places I need to reinforce before sheeting the sides with
scribed basswood.
Updates will depend on free time and how nice it is outside, still lots I'd like to do on the layout
before the ground freezes...This caboose was to have been built last winter but it got interupted
by spring!
Onward Ho....
Replies:
Reply author: ACL BIG50AE
Replied on: 18 Oct 2003 01:32:25
Message:
john looking good looks like a great project.
Reply author: chuckger
Replied on: 18 Oct 2003 04:48:20
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Message:
Hi John,
Your off to a great start. Thats a kool prototype, reminds me of a converted box car.
chuckger
Reply author: docwatsonva
Replied on: 18 Oct 2003 08:47:45
Message:
John,
Great looking project so far. Something different for a change.
Reply author: cjwalas
Replied on: 18 Oct 2003 10:33:32
Message:
DARN, DARN, DARN! The very prototype I was planning on doing! Excellent choice, John! I've
loved the look of these cabeese since I first saw them in NGSL, but never had the courage to
attempt one. You beat me to it and it sure looks like you'll do a much better job of it than I could
ever hope to!
Can't wait to see this one done.
Chris
Reply author: Richard Smith
Replied on: 18 Oct 2003 15:39:19
Message:
John,
That is a great prototype and you are off to a beautiful start on the model. That is very close to
the type of caboose I'd like to build for the Port Orford Coast R.R. I must have skipped by the plan
in NG&SLG. Thanks for the heads up. I'm still a couple years away from building any rolling stock,
still too much to do on the RR itself, but I'll file the info away for later.
I will be following your progress with much interest. Please post info & pix as often as you can.
Have you thought about trucks for that beauty? I may retire a couple older Bachmann passenger
cars in the future. Do you think their trucks might work for a car like that?
Anyway thanks for the pix.
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Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 19 Oct 2003 06:59:17
Message:
Thanks to all for the encouraging words!
Hey Chris, great minds... ya know I fell for this beauty when I saw it in Gerald Best's
wonderful book "Mexican Narrow Gauge". Great book for inspiration, by the way.
Richard, Plans were in the Jan/Feb '97 NG&SLG with a letter from Mal Ferrell updating the
whereabouts of #152 in the Jul/Aug issue of the same year. Apparently, #152 was rebuilt with
end platforms sometime before it was buned in a fire set by vandals in 1969 (damn hippies! ). It
then made its way to the Huckleberry RR and was rebuilt. I'm building the version without the end
platforms btw. Here's a recent pic I found - not a very good one...
As for trucks, thanks Richard, I do have a set of Bachmann passenger trucks I am planning on
using (great minds again! ). The caboose is sitting on them in the picture but it's hard to see as
it's dark and I don't have the bolsters cut yet...
Next up is butchering a Bachmann caboose for the windows. The bobber caboose's windows are a
close enough match to the CyZ's caboose but I need 16 of them and there are only 4 of the
correct size on the bobber. This will also be my first attempt at casting which I will do my best to
document here. I am planning to remove all 4 and making a 4 window mould to speed up the
casting.
Here's the victim...
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Removed one of the windows last night, don't worry, the dremel wasn't on for this pic I do like
that thumb!
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One down, four more to go...
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I hope to get the rest of the windows removed and cleaned up tonight.
Mould making should start tomorrow...
Reply author: Jim Francis
Replied on: 19 Oct 2003 18:26:15
Message:
John,
Great start!
Welcome aboard! I have added you to the running list for the Winter Rolling Stock
Challenge.
Anyone else out there starting on something for the WInter Rolling Stock Challenge please
indicate you are joining the Challenge under the Winter Rolling Stock Challenge thread.
Reply author: MountainMan
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Replied on: 21 Oct 2003 00:18:50
Message:
Okay time for an update...
Got the rest of the windows out of the bobber and cleaned them up with the power sander and
followed with some hand sanding,
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Now it was time to create the mold I needed to cast the windows. Here's the mold making
material I got from Micro Mark
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Man my workbench is cluttered...
Anyway, first step was to make a mold box for the originals, I made this out of some strip balsa
and built it on plate glass,
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In retrospect, I should have put some clay underneath the balsa as a gasket to keep the material
from seeping out from underneath, not much did but it would have kept it a bit tidier.
I used a very small drop of thin CA to secure the frames in place on the glass
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I mixed up the mold material in a clean bowl, it was measured 10:1 by weight, helps to have a
good digital scale for this.
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The mixed material...turns a nice sky blue when mixed.
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Then don't forget the mold release I almost did...
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Here we go...
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After pouring the material, I put my homemade de-airing devise (I owe my wife a new bowl
now ) and ran the vacuum for about 5 minutes to remove all the bubbles.
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With the mold material I purchased, it requires a 24 hour cure time and the directions emphasize
not to try to remove the mold until this time has passed. Man, I should have gotten the quicker
curing stuff, it's hard to wait...It's been long enough as I type this but I'm at work and have to
wait until I get home this morning to take the mold off....
More pics will follow...
Reply author: docwatsonva
Replied on: 21 Oct 2003 05:29:51
Message:
Great instructional photos John. I'm sure everyone will benefit. Casting isn't too bad if you keep it
simple. No modeller should be afraid to try it. Micro Mark does carry a very good line of casting
products.
Reply author: Rick Raively
Replied on: 21 Oct 2003 05:37:33
Message:
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Wow John,
I have not try to make any pieces out of a mold. Thanks for making it look so easy. Can't wait to
see the rest of your picture tutorial.
Thanks
Rick R.
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 22 Oct 2003 00:51:02
Message:
Tuesday's update,
I got home this morning and pulled the mold off of the glass and this was the result,
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There was a bit of flash that creeped under the masters and it worried me a bit. A razor blade was
used to carefully remove as much as I could. Afterwords, I discovered this wasn't much of a
concern since the molded parts would need cleaned up anyway, any distortions from the flash
would be sanded off.
The mold was washed in warm soapy water and let dry. This evening, the CR-600 casting resin
(also from Micro-Mark) was readied for use.
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The end was cut off of a oral medicine syrine left over from the last cold our children went
through. These things are usually free from Walgreen's when you get prescriptions filled, I try to
get a couple each time. This is used for accurately measuring the resin in a 50/50 ratio.
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Then after thoroughly mixing the resin it was carefully poured into the mold. This is some good
resin as it flows just like water. Mold release was not required.
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The resin turns white as it cures,
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The instructions say that you can normally demold in 30-40 minutes. On the first cast I did, I
removed one at 40 minutes but found that it was still quite easily deformed, so I let the others
cure for another 20 minutes, they came out easily and were much firmer.
And here are the demolded castings,
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A bit of flash but they clean up rather quickly. Won't be long and I'll have all 16 required for the
caboose! This was my first casting attempt and seemed to have gone pretty well....
During this whole casting process, while waiting for things to cure, I sheeted the interior walls. A
mistake was made that I should have known better to do. Since I sheeted just one side, when the
glue dried completely, this resulted...Warp Speed!
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Not wanting to rebuild the walls, I cut out the window openings, and clamped the heck out of the
wall to the frame with some angle iron,
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The outer sheeting was then added and clamped again,
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After allowing it to dry for a day, the clamps were removed and viola!
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Not laser straight but better than having to rebuild it. I'm not letting my breathe out completely
until I give it another day or so to fully dry.
Next up is casting a few more windows and getting the other walls glued to the frame.
I hope you guys aren't getting overloaded with the pictures by the way. I'm not trying to do a
tutorial with this project, just document it. If someone picks up a tip, it's worth it then. It is rather
unnerving to have your work out in the open like this...
Reply author: Rick Raively
Replied on: 22 Oct 2003 05:28:52
Message:
Hi John,
Love the update on the mold process. You are doing a excellent job.
quote:
I hope you guys aren't getting overloaded with the pictures by the way. I'm not trying to do a tutorial with this
project, just document it. If someone picks up a tip, it's worth it then. It is rather unnerving to have your work out
in the open like this...
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Never... The more pictures and info the better the log. I have already learn from it, Thanks. Its
always a little bit hard to open yourself up for the world to see your work. You are doing a great
job, so don't worry about it.
Thanks again
Rick R.
Reply author: Dougald
Replied on: 22 Oct 2003 07:00:36
Message:
John
Great progress and keep those pics coming. Casting is one of the best ways to create multiple
copies and you have made it look very easy.
Regards ... Doug
Reply author: Jim Francis
Replied on: 22 Oct 2003 17:51:21
Message:
John,
Keep those pictures comming!
We are all learnign casting from your instructions and pics!
Please don't stop now.
Jim
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 24 Oct 2003 00:02:22
Message:
Thanks to everyone for the kind words! I'll try to take all the pics I can. Sometimes it's hard to
remember to grab the camera while building...
Thursday night update:
I got the other side wall glued on last night. Remember, you can never have too many clamps
around the shop!
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The wall came out pretty straight although not perfectly square to the frame. It will straighten out
when the roof formers are installed.
Speaking of which, it was time to cut the formers. After making a paper templete from the plans,
5 pieces of 1/8" basswood were tack glued together. Then they were shaped using the disc
sander.
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The ends were notched on the table saw,
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Also, while at the saw, I cut a 3/16" notch for the center stringer.
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Here's the formers dry-fit into postion,
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I had considered making the roof removeable to have access to the interior. Not sure exactly what
would work best to allow the roof to come off easily. Perhaps if I make 2 more fomers and set
them inside the 2 end formers (end formers would be glued to the side walls), once the roof was
glued to the other formers, this should allow it to be removed. My only concerns are that I would
have to be very careful to avoid gluing the roof to the side walls and would the whole roof would
be sturdy enough to survive being removed without breaking.
I'm not against having a permanent roof...
Any ideas?
Can you tell I'm making this up as I go along?!?
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 09 Nov 2003 02:11:46
Message:
It's been a while since an update, work and civic duties have been eating up alot of spare time. I
have been taking pictures since my last update as you can tell from the dates on them, just
haven't been able to post...
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Enough excuses, on to the pictures!
In order to make the roof removable, I made two more formers and cut notches for stringers in all
of them, here is the roof after gluing and clamping with rubber bands
This picture better shows how the roof comes off. Notice the outer stringers are missing where the
cupola will go. The center stringer will be cut out in this area also when the sheeting is glued on
but that won't happen until I get the trim along the top of the carbody applied.
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Here's the end wall being framed
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And sheeted (Lots a clamps!! )
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The window trim was the next job. The openings were touched up with a file and then the sill was
added
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Then the side pieces,
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The window frames,
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Here's a higher resolution pic of the completed window with the header in place
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The line above the window is where the trim will run around the carbody. That's next on my list...
Hope to get more done early this week!
Reply author: peter bunce
Replied on: 09 Nov 2003 03:39:46
Message:
Hi All, & John,
Looking good John, I was debating with myself whether to make the roof of my boxcar
removeable, but in the end decided that it would be stronger to be glued down all round, so I am
interested in your methods of making it removeable.
Will you need to add some stiffening, or bracing to the body at all?
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Reply author: Bubba
Replied on: 09 Nov 2003 09:45:36
Message:
John, that caboose is looking great! I really like that prototype and I'm convinced you're going to
do a fantastic model of it. You've even got scribed wood on the inside walls! Are you going to be
making an interior as well?
Reply author: docwatsonva
Replied on: 09 Nov 2003 13:03:19
Message:
John,
I agree with Bubba. This is one great looking caboose.
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 09 Nov 2003 22:01:06
Message:
Peter,
The walls are straight enough that I should be able to get away without any bracing. They do bow
in slightly and help to hold the roof in place.
Bubba,
Yeah, I'm planning on putting an interior in it. I have no pictures or idea of what the inside of the
prototype looked like so I'll have to guess.
Doc,
Thanks!
Reply author: Timmy
Replied on: 12 Nov 2003 16:53:22
Message:
John-
You've done a beautiful job so far, and I agree with everybody else about the prototype - Very
nice caboose to model! Thanks for the casting tutorial (never too many pictures) it makes me
think it's possible for a guy like me with 5 thumbs on each hand to do it! WELL DONE!
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 22 Nov 2003 03:55:47
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Message:
Been really trying to get time to update my log. Finally have a few minutes sooooooo....
The trim around the top was applied along with the roof sheeting
Here's the bottom of the roof
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I wasn't happy with the way the roof fit on the ends. It didn't sit down against the top of the trim
very tightly. So I had an idea...
First drilled some holes in the floor under the trouble spots
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Then reinforced the holes with a bit of 1/16" plywood
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This is the underside of the roof. I epoxied some hardwood blocks under the ends
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Then holes were drilled in the blocks an they were tapped out 3-56NF
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I cut to length and threaded some 1/16" brass rods and locked a couple of nuts on the end
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Here's a shot inside showing how the rod fits up into the block
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And the bottom
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Don't know how well you can see the difference but here's the roof end before I tightened the rods
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And here's after
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It is much more noticeable in person... This way too, the roof is securely attached to the body
and I know that if it wasn't I'd try to pick it up by the roof one time and probably wind up
dropping it.
On to the cupola! Here's the ends...
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Framed up...
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End windows installed...
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And finally the nearly completed cupola an top of the caboose and on the trucks
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It's really starting to take form. I'm getting excited about finishing it... It might not seem like it
to some of ya'll but this project really is progressing pretty quick for me.
Reply author: peter bunce
Replied on: 22 Nov 2003 04:30:50
Message:
Hi all & John, Looking superb, nice work, and the photo's help to show your solutions to the little
problems as they come up. Congratulations.
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 22 Nov 2003 21:35:15
Message:
Thanks Peter. I find the photos usually explain things much better than I ever can!
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Reply author: docwatsonva
Replied on: 23 Nov 2003 05:48:41
Message:
John,
Wonderfull progress you are making there. I really like your idea of attaching the roof.
Reply author: chuckger
Replied on: 23 Nov 2003 07:10:01
Message:
Hi John,
Caboose looks great. Neat way of keeping the roof on. Nice work.
chuckger
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 20 Dec 2003 22:05:07
Message:
Greetings all!
I've been very lazy lately about updating the log . I'm sure glad this isn't a race ! Work has
been progressing on the caboose, so onto the pictures...
Built the doors from scratch using 1/16" and 1/32" basswood. It's projects like this where I
couldn't live without my Micromark table saw...
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The roof was "tarpapered" with Sig silkspan that was painted on with Floquil weathered black
paint. The paint does a good job of holding it on but I took some thin CA and went around the
edges to keep them firmly attached.
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Here's a closer shot
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Been adding some of the details now. The couplers ahve been attached (accucraft). Lots of nut
and bolt castings yet to add! I'm not sure what function they provide, but if you look at the
prototype pics there are what appear to be pieces of sheetmetal behind each grab iron. I used
some .005" styrene to simulate these.
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And here's the point I'm currently at now...
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Not much further now. Truss rods, roof walks, brake wheel, detailing the trucks, and a few other
things and she'll be done! Hope to get alot accomplished over the holidays...maybe I can have it
done by the 1st
Reply author: Bubba
Replied on: 20 Dec 2003 23:09:02
Message:
Cool! I love this caboose! I've been waiting to see the next update. I like the fabric you put down.
Its a very fine texture and looks great. That is used for model aircraft, isn't it?
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 21 Dec 2003 00:25:53
Message:
Andy,
Thanks , I'm off work next week so hopefully there will be some significant progress on it.
Yeah, silkspan is made by Sig for the flying model airplane folks. I've used it before and really like
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the texture for simulating roofing materials. It's pretty easy to work with.
Reply author: peter bunce
Replied on: 21 Dec 2003 01:26:57
Message:
Hi All, & John,
Your caboose is quite a big one - and looks very nice - thanks for all the photo's.
Are the pieces of metal (005 plastic) behind the grab irons in effect 'kick plates' and there as
protection for the (softer) boards underneath?
Reply author: Crisolite
Replied on: 22 Dec 2003 00:23:42
Message:
quote:
Are the pieces of metal (005 plastic) behind the grab irons in effect 'kick plates' and there as protection for the
(softer) boards underneath?
Peter, you hit the nail on the head there. Over the years I've heard them called all kinds of things,
but the only one I can remember right now is 'boot blocker'
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 22 Dec 2003 01:39:36
Message:
Peter & Ed,
Thanks for the info. This certainly makes sense. Maybe they wore alot of pointy toed cowboy boots
down there?!?
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 15:19:22
Message:
Well, I finally have a working digital camera and the time so it's time to update the log. I got a
new computer last month and it took a bit of tryin to get the usb driver for my older camera to
work with it. Time has been scarce lately too. Being the mayor of a small village here in Illinois
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doesn't exactly add to my leisure time!
Enough excuses, on to the pics!
I went outside today and took a few pics...(click on link below image to enlarge)
http://gold.mylargescale.com/MountainMan/DSC01350.JPG
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http://gold.mylargescale.com/MountainMan/DSC01351.JPG
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http://gold.mylargescale.com/MountainMan/DSC01354.JPG
Here's a few detail shots...(no larger links)
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A few notes on the model, the colors are a guesstimate as to what the CyZ actually used. Since I
was lettering it for my own RR it really didn't matter. I'm sure that the CyZ used a darker, golden
yellow for at least some of their cabooses, but as far as the red goes, I kinda guessed. The b/w pic
in Best's book (pg 63) suggests that the windows and cupola were of a darker color but I have
been unable to comfirm that the color was red. The colors used were Badger Modelflex "Soo Line
Dulux Gold" and "Soo Line Red". Just a coincidence that they were both Soo colors! The red
closely matched the color of the Woodland Scenics dry tranfer letters that were used. The Gritty
Creek shops decided when they get around to building passenger cars that these colors will be
used again.
Using Kevin Strong's post on his trucks as a guide, I added a bit of detail to the Bachmann trucks.
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I didn't add any brake rigging or super detail the underbody. After doing so to the first few large
scale models I built, I found that it usually doesn't get seen when the car is in operation anyway.
The interior is also rather sparce at the moment,
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One item I had a bit of fun with was lighting the marker lamps...
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They are Ozark Miniature lamps with small 1.5v bulbs run off of a AA battery under the cupola
seats.
There's many things I'm forgetting to add about the model I'm sure. It was alot of fun to build and
I'm quite happy with the results.
Reply author: peter bunce
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 15:59:19
Message:
Hi John,
Very nice & colorful, you have a very useful piece of equipment there.
Congratulations on a real good job!
Looks a wee bit cold there, not like the where the original (mexico)ran.
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Reply author: TimFlan
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 17:00:09
Message:
Dang, that is cool, and a very unique piece of rolling stock. I gotta build me a little toolcar/MOW
caboose one of these days...
Reply author: Torby
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 18:04:18
Message:
Sparce interior? Looks pretty detailed to me!
Nice.
Reply author: Dougald
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 18:04:41
Message:
Very nicely executed ... and fine craftsmanship displayed in those windows.
Regards ... Doug
Reply author: East Broad Top
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 18:24:15
Message:
Very cool! Just caught the the thread with the finished product, and enjoyed looking back at the
construction. It's a helluvalot of work, but damn! ain't it worth it! I really like the silkspan roofing
material. I'll have to file that one away in my bag of tricks. You done yourself proud with that one.
Later,
K
Reply author: Bubba
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 20:01:31
Message:
Fantastic work! That sure would look great behind a Connie!
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Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 13 Feb 2004 20:44:29
Message:
Peter,
Yes, quite chilly today, temps around 4C (25F) with 20 mph winds. Very different from the
Zacatecas area!
Bruce,
Switch? What switch? Just kidding, it's underneath. A simple slide switch..
Torby,
Thanks, I was planning to add a table a chairs plus some general interior clutter in the future...
Kevin,
Considering all the ideas I've gotten from your work, I'm quite happy to return the favor! As a
matter of fact, I have 4 or 5 Bachmann ore cars sitting on my RIP track that I'm planning on
giving the "Strong" treatment...
Andrew,
Thanks, my Connie is sitting on the workbench now. Lotsa mods planned. I'm leaning towards also
giving it that "South of the Border" flavor...
Thanks to all for the kind words! I honestly have to say that this caboose wouldn't have gone
together without the inspiration and support of the wonderful folks here at MLS!
Reply author: docwatsonva
Replied on: 14 Feb 2004 06:04:20
Message:
John,
Your caboose looks fantastic. Excellent workmanship.
Reply author: Torby
Replied on: 14 Feb 2004 08:21:58
Message:
John, Did we meet at the Bloomington GATS show last fall?
Reply author: blackburn49
Replied on: 14 Feb 2004 12:26:49
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Message:
Stunning work. Couldn't hardly appear more professional than that!
Reply author: MountainMan
Replied on: 14 Feb 2004 16:14:07
Message:
Torby,
Living just 20 mintutes from Bloomington, you would think I could have made it. Actually I'm
waiting for it to be held at closer location so I can just walk to it! Just kidding! My work
schedule has occupied my weekends for the last 5 months but fortunately, this is the last weekend
for that screwy schedule. I'm planning on going to the Springfield show though. I'll look for you
there...
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