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    MOUNTAINS

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    A large natural elevation o the earths

    surace rising abruptly rom the sur-

    rounding level; a large steep hill.

    MOUNTAINS

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    MOUNTAINS

    Mining Te Inerno

    Dantes Inerno, Indonesia

    Te Bat-Netters

    Yongora Boiken Hunters, New Guinea

    Sweetness From Te Sky

    Himalayan Mountains, Nepal

    Te Men Who each Eagles

    Berik and Sailau (Kazakh), Altai Mountains, Mongolia

    2 - 31

    6 - 74 - 5

    8 -

    11

    Gelandas And Grass

    Te Aweta Family, Simien Mountains, Ethiopia

    Closer o Heaven

    Introduction

    Avalanches o Order

    Martin and Andreas, Eiger Mountain, Switzerland

    12 -

    15

    16 -

    17

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    THE TOUGH PLANTS

    1

    Some say that on a mountain you are closer to heaven. Tis is

    true in the sense that mountains tower above the clouds, and

    out o mountains ows most o the worlds resh water, as wellas most o the topsoil gits that are easy to see as heaven sent.

    But living on a mountain heaven or more like hell?

    Mountain communities are among the poorest, most marginal-

    ized people on earth, enduring some o the greatest o hardships.

    Te problem is the sheer verticality, which has a proound efect

    on every aspect o mountain lie. You have to climb up or down to

    get anywhere, and rock-aces orm a barrier to the outside world.

    Te higher you go, the harder it gets.

    Very ew people live at high altitudes, and or a good reason.

    Te higher you go, the lower the atmospheric pressure and

    the less air there is to breathe. Our bodies are adapted to lie

    near sea level, where our blood receives the right amount

    o oxygen or constant rereshment. As soon as we start to

    climb higher than about 2500 meters (8200 eet), we are in

    a place that a lowland ape isnt designed to be.

    Hand in hand with the oxygen-thin air comes the cold and

    the poor-quality soil. Tis limits both the crops that can be

    grown and the number o meat-providing animals to just a

    ew mountain-adapted ones - not ideal at altitude, when thebody actually needs more uel to keep going. Yet humans

    by nature have always reached or the stars, whether theyve

    been pushed there by conict or simply because they want

    to. Against all the odds, specialized groups o people have

    lived at high altitude since prehistoric times, adapting physi-

    cally to the extremes. Mountain-adapted men and woman

    have larger lung capacities and more ecient circulatory

    systems than the rest o us. Tey also tend to be short and

    stock with barrel chests-all adaptations to the high lie.

    Te Earths highest landmass is the Himalayas the lando snow. For the rst hunter-gatherers moving east rom

    Arica and across India, it was a natural barrier to migra-

    tion. Archaeological evidence suggests that the rst actual

    Himalayan settlements were on the vast ibetan plateau to

    the north, some 25,000-20,000 years ago.

    It seems to have taken much longer or humans in populate

    the highest heartland o the mountains. Nepal sits at the top

    o the world, with eight o the ten highest mountains within

    its borders. Te earliest evidence o a Nepalese population

    dates to about 9000 years ago.

    Perched higher still, to the east o Nepal, is Bhutan. Hu-

    mans appear to have arrived here only some 4000 years ago.

    Bhutans isolation has meant that it has remained practicallyree rom the global inuences o the modern world - until

    television nally arrived in 1999.

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    MOUNTAINS

    2

    Deep inside a volcano, a human shape emerges rom billow-

    ing clouds o poisonous sulphur. Its a scene rom Dantes

    Inerno: the man struggles with his devilish burden, bent

    over by the weight o the huge basket overowing with large

    spikes o bright yellow sulphur. His clothes are rags, his eves

    bloodshot, his exposed skin blistered by the toxic gas. Ahead

    he aces a steep climb out o the caldera, ollowed by along walk down the mountain to deliver the sulphur to the

    company paymaster.

    MINING THE INFERNO

    -8.049302, +114.240654

    Ijen, East Java, Indonesia

    Sulphur Minning

    Like most Indonesian sulphur miners, the mans toil may

    shorten his lie. Evidence o the sulphuric ruin lo his lungs

    can be heard in his voice. But he is living proo that humans

    can survive in the most extreme conditions, and he laughs

    at the health risks. He can support his amily, and unlike

    some he knows, he doesnt need to beg. He is a proud miner

    who competes with his colleagues to earn the heaviest load.He knows how to navigate inside a rumbling volcano and

    avoid the toxic clouds. Not every man can say he works in

    a place as dramatic as this. Once he has collected his wages

    - higher than average or the region - he lights up a cigarette

    and walks home down the rice terraces.

    Photography top left: Dante ater a long day o minning | top right: Minners climbing down to the Sulphur | bottom left: The journey back to the top | top right: A minner

    carrying the heavy loads

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    MINING THE INFERNO

    3

    I proo were needed that mountains can be hell on Earth, we

    dont have to look arther than Indonesia.

    Tis story begins at the bottom.

    + Most men ater a ew years

    show serious signs o health

    risk. Almost all o the min-

    ers bodies begin to deorm.

    Humpbacks are common

    along with loss o sight and

    obvious problems with lungs

    (caused by constantly breath-

    ing in the harmul umes).

    Illustration top left: Carrying Sulphur | top right: A Minners deormed back | bottom left: Struggling through the gas | top right: A group collecting together

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    4

    MOUNTAINS

    THE BAT-NETTERS

    -7.020731, +143.988315

    Papua New Guinea

    Catching Bats

    Illustration above: The steps to catching Bats in Papua New Guinea

    + Most men ater a ew years

    show serious signs o health

    risk. Almost all o the min-

    ers bodies begin to deorm.

    Humpbacks are common

    along with loss o sight and

    obvious problems with lungs

    (caused by constantly breath-

    ing in the harmul umes).

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    THE BAT-NETTERS

    5

    Indonesia is one o the most active volcanic regions on the

    Pacic ring o re-a circular band o volcanism that includes

    countries as diverse as Japan and Costa Rica - and the rich

    volcanic soil is the primary wealth o the region. Not all the

    worlds mountains are volcanic, though. In act, the major-

    ity, including the Himalayas and the Rockies, were created

    by laud masses pushing against each other and crumpling

    up near where they met. But whichever way they were creat-

    ed, most mountain ranges continue to shape human history.

    One o the most striking examples o this can be ound in

    New Guinea.

    Mountains dominate the island - the worlds second largest

    and more than three times the size o Great Britain. And

    down every mountainside, rivers gouge valleys. Tis rugged

    geography has given use loan anthropologists dream. A

    diferent group o people has settled in almost every valley

    system - some 700 distinct groups, cut of rom one another

    by the mountains. Tey have developed diferent cultures

    and languages. Some o the languages are as diferent rom

    each other as English is rom Mandarin.

    Marcus is a Yangoru Boiken hunter rom the Prince

    Alexander coastal mountain range. Like mountain people

    everywhere, he aces steep slopes every day o his lie. But

    ar rom being oppressed by the mountains, the Yangoru

    Boiken people have turned the ridge lines to their advan-

    tage. Centuries ago, they observed that, in al least one re-

    spect, bats and humans arc similar: both look or shortcuts.

    With this in mind, Marcus makes his way along the top o

    a ridge. He climbs a tree to assess the spot. It meets his cri-

    teria, and he begins to chop. Only a ew trees need to come

    down. Seen rom the side, the ridge now has a rectangular

    notch cut out o its top, like a doorway-and thats exactlly

    what it is.

    As the sun goes down, Marcus sits by the opening and

    listens. On their journey between their roost and the ruit

    trees they eed on, they must y up and over the ridge. Mar-

    cuss newly created gap is a handy shortcut- it saves them a

    little wing-power.

    Marcus allows them to get used to the new route beore

    springing his trap. Hes made a huge net specially to snare

    the bats - its loose enough to be invisible to their senses, but

    tight enough so that they cant escape once caught. In the

    black o night, several ruit bats crash into the net. Marcus

    is alerted to their presence by a tin can ull o seeds that hes

    xed to the net. He rushes to lower both net and prey using

    pulleys and rigging hes created rom vines and canes. He

    then dispatches the bats with a club.

    Once he has a ew, he brings them hack to his village. He

    sears of the ur over an open ame and then boils the bats

    in a pot, with local leaves or avour. He serves this rare

    source o protein with rice and vegetables. Each bat can eed

    up to ve people.

    Photography left: Marcus setting the Trap | right: Waiting in a nearby tree

    One bat will eed a amily or

    5 days.

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    6

    MOUNTAINS

    SWEETNESS FROM THE SKY

    +30.445875, +80.189459

    Himalayan Mountains, India

    Collecting Honey

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    SWEETNESS FROM THE SKY

    7

    Te Himalayan mountains o Nepal are much higher than

    those o New Guinea, but like them, they are bisected by

    an endless succession o valleys, oten so isolated rom each

    other and the world at large that they contain species ound

    nowhere else.

    Animals adapted to these heights include the worlds larg-

    est honeybee. Apis Laboriosa, which lives at altitudes up

    to 3600 metres (1180 eet) and may orage even higher.

    o keep the honeycombs out o reach o predators such as

    bears, it hangs them rom clifs, including those ound in

    the Annapurna region. It can be a shock to look up at a clif

    ace and see a hive the size o a postbox dangling rom a

    ledge. Just one hive can contain 30kg (66 pounds) o honey.

    For the people o aprang village, such a bonanza is worth

    risking a precipitous climb and possible death.

    wice a year they light a re, the smoke rises to the hive

    above. Tinking it to be smoke rom a orest re, most o

    the bees evacuate. Te honey hunters then approach rom

    above, descending on ladders suspended rom the top o the

    clif. When a honey-hunter reaches the level o a hive, he is

    likely to be attacked by the giant guard bees that remain on

    the combs. So he has to work quickly, sometimes protected

    by just a blanket. He wields a long pole with a attened end

    like a paddle blade to carve of chunks o comb. Tese all

    down to the waiting men below, who gather them ready to

    take home.

    Twice a year, villagers gather

    at the base o the cli and

    oer up a prayer and git o

    fowers, ruits and rice.

    Photograph left: A Honey Hunter dropping Honey below | Illustration: The stollen Honey & the Tools used

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    8

    Te honey-hunters resourceulness highlights a human

    shortcoming when it comes to lie in the mountains -

    people cant y. But ying is a skill that some people have

    attempted to co-opt. Te dry climate o Mongolias Altai

    Mountains and the high winds mean that there is virtually

    no cover, which or a human hunter poses a problem. How

    do you catch an animal when it can see you coining rom

    ar away? Even on horseback and armed with a rie, a man

    is lucky to catch a rabbit, ox or wol.

    By comparison, the golden eagle is a supreme hunter in

    this environment. With a wingspan o 2 metres (7 eet) or

    more and a capability o diving at 150kph (92mph), this

    predator has little trouble ambushing prey. Mountains dont

    restrict its movement - in act, the uplit o air over ridges

    gives eagles the height they need to cover a vast range.

    Tree thousand years ago, bronze-age hunters in the Altai

    Mountains chronicled their extraordinary relationship with

    hunting birds by carving drawings on rock walls. Te glyphs

    have been interpreted as the birds riding on mens orearms.

    Its a practice that continues to this day. Te key is to catch

    a edgling eagle at the right age, beore it has learned to y.

    Sixteen-year-old Berik is suspended by a rope rom a clif.

    He has waited his whole lie or this moment. Above

    him, his ather Sailaus ace is ull o concern, his knuckles

    MOUNTAINS

    THE MEN WHO TEACH EAGLES

    +47.359800, +92.363059

    Altai Mountains, Mongolia

    Training Eagles

    whitened by his grip on the rope. Slack, shouts Berik. Im

    nearly there. Just beneath his eet, two baby golden eagles

    regard him with surprise rather than panic. Once saely on

    the ledge, Berik picks up the edglings and inspects them

    with the expertise o a trainer inspecting a racehorse. He

    stretches out their talons, looking at the lines etched above

    each claw - the scutes. Tree scutes are good but our are

    better.

    Berik needs a emale, which is larger and more aggressive

    than a male. Both o these edglings are emale, and both

    have our scutes. So he takes the larger bird, reasoning that

    she has been more active than her sister at eeding time. He

    wraps his chosen bird in a blanket and slings the bundle

    over his shoulder. Climbing back up to his ather, he un-

    bundles his catch. Sailau approves: A queen o the Altai!

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    THE MEN WHO TEACH EAGLES

    9

    Photographs top: Sailau releasing his Eagle or the kill | above: Berik and Sailau searching or Foxes | Illustration left: Berik stealing his Eagle rom its nest

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    10

    MOUNTAINS

    When training the young Eagle

    must wear a hat that covers

    its eyes (similar to horses it

    calms the animal). This is only

    removed when hunting a ox.

    Whenever calling an eagle,

    Berik or Sailau use this whistle

    to encourage the eagle to

    catch its prey.

    The lungs o the ox are always

    given to the Eagle straight

    ater the kill.

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    Sailau and Berik are Kazakhs, and Sailau is teaching his

    son to become a Kazakh eagle-hunter. Over the next six

    months, Berik and his eagle train almost even day. Te bird

    learns to y and lo dive onto a ox skin pulled on a rope.

    Berik rewards her with chunks o meat. As the birds skills

    improve, Berik learns the importance o patience and dis-

    cipline. I he changes the routine just once, the bird could

    lose aith in him as a reliable master.

    In November, the rst snows hill. Sailau cant contain his

    excitement. At rst light, he and Berik set out on horse-

    back. Each has a golden eagle perched on his let arm and is

    clothed in heavy ur or protection rom the cold - now av-

    eraging -20C (-4F). Tey ride up a canyon to gain height.

    It doesnt take long beore they nd resh ox tracks in the

    snow. Sailau points to the ridge above. He tells Berik to nd

    a place with a commanding view and to wait there. When

    he hears Sailaus signal, he has to remove his birds hood.

    With her acute eyesight, she will be able to see the ox, even

    i Berik cant. I she does, Berik has to release her.

    Moments later, a ox bolts out into the open. As Berik

    releases his eagle, he shouts the same command theyve used

    all summer. Te eagle is emboldened by the sound and

    knows just what to do. She circles once to keep her altitude.

    Ten she olds her wings into her chest and drops like an

    arrow unleashed rom a longbow. Even at ull sprint, the ox

    has no chance o reaching cover. Just above the oxs head,

    she ares her wings to control her speed. Te ox wheels

    around and gnashes its teeth and inates its ur to increase

    its size. Te young bird is utterly surprised - this ox is not

    behaving like urs shes been used to. She veers away at the

    last second and settles nearby.

    Sailau has released his eagle as well, but too late. Te ox

    escapes into the rocks. Both eagles rest on the snow, wailing

    or their masters to ride down. Once in range, the men call

    their eagles, which obediently y onto their arms. As the

    sun sets, the hunters return to their gers (tents). Sailau con-

    soles his son, explaining how a young eagle that has never

    seen a live ox beore can be startled, But, he adds, it wont

    happen twice.

    Te ollowing morning they again nd the trail o a ox.

    Sailau ushes it out. As Berik releases the bird, he can sense

    her excitement. Te ox runs. Te bird traces its move-

    ments. Flying high above, she suddenly dives. As she strikes,

    her let talon closes on the oxs haunches above the tail.

    Te ox turns to bite its assailant, and the eagles right claw

    closes on its jaws. Eagles claws have tremendous crushing

    orce, but this eagle has been trained to rerain rom killing

    the prey and tearing into its vital organs with her beak - at

    least or a short time. And so it is important that Sailau gets

    to her quickly, beore she shreds the valuable pelt. He coaxes

    her to let go with a chunk o goat meat and then dispatches

    the ox with a crushing blow.

    Tis is the rst kill or Beiiks bird, and the tradition is to

    allow her to eat the oxs lungs. Its pelt will be made into a

    hat that Berik will keep or many years. For Kazakh boys, a

    successul hunt is a rite o passage. Sailau seems even more

    pleased with the outcome than Berik- his greatest pleasure is

    to see his sons grow up the Kazakh way.

    Te partnership between man and eagle is a dramatic illus-

    tration o how humans living in the mountains depend on

    partnerships with other animals. And the higher they live,

    the truer this becomes.

    THE MEN WHO TEACH EAGLES

    11

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    12

    MOUNTAINS

    Te Andes o South America are the worlds

    second highest mountain range. Here at

    altitudes above 4000 metres (13,125 eet)

    humans depend on the llama. A domesticated

    member o the camel amily, the llama has a

    long neck and an expressive ace reminiscent

    o its desert cousins. But its body is stout,

    more like a very large goat, and along with its

    South American relatives guanaeos, alpacas

    and vicunas - it has sot ur that can he woven

    into amazingly sot, warm wool.

    Te uses or llamas are endless. Tey can carry

    nearly a third o their body weight on their

    backs and are sureooted even on the steep-est clifs. Teir meat is nutritious, and their

    milk can be drunk on its own or made into

    dairy products. Even their dung, once dried,

    makes excellent res - critical or lie above

    the treeline, where wood is non-existent. Its

    little wonder that the llama eatures heavily in

    Andean olklore and religion.

    In the Himalayas, people have an analogous

    partnership with the yak - a shaggy, long-

    horned relative o cows. It is so adapted

    to high altitude that it doesnt are well at

    lower elevations. As in the Andes, Himalayan

    people depend on their domesticated yaks or

    everything - transport, ood, uel, clothing

    and even shelter. Without yaks, it is hard to

    imagine how some Himalayan villages would

    survive.

    However, not all relationships with mountainanimals are partnerships. In many cases, peo-

    ple are in direct competition with wildlie.

    Animals Tat Give Everything

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    GELADAS AND GRASS

    13

    GELADAS AND GRASS

    +13.145653, +38.363415

    Simien Mountains National

    Park, Amhara, Ethiopia

    Protecting the Crops

    In Ethiopias Simien Mountains, people live

    higher than anywhere in Europe or North Amer-

    ica - and more than twice as high as the Kazakh

    eagle hunters. But these mountains, with their

    spectacular spires, giant lobelia trees and unique

    wildlie, are distinctly Arican.

    For Aweta and his amily, carving out a lie in this rugged

    landscape is a challenge. Like so many mountain people,

    they depend on a combination o livestock and crops. But

    here there is precious little at ground or cultivating wheat

    or barley. Like his ancestors beore him over thousands o

    years, Aweta has ploughed or planted on every available clif

    ledge, even i it means he must use ropes to get there. Tis is

    extreme arming, with drop-ofs that make even experienced

    mountaineers eel giddy.

    Photographs above: Simien Mountains

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    14

    MOUNTAINS

    Photographs, top let: Dereje Celebrating his victory | top ret: Dereje keeping watch | middle let: Geladas | middle right: Derejes Sister scaring o Geladas | bottom: Lie with a view

    Te alarm goes of - a aint yodel-like sound rom the valley

    below. Dereje springs to his eet and replies, Let or right?

    Again the reply is aint, but Dereje can hear let, and he

    sprints of, pausing only to scoop up a rock and load it into

    his sling. Avoiding trampling the barley. Dereje runs so

    close to the clif edge that he dislodges pebbles that tumble

    hundreds o metres onto the boulders below. Away, away,

    he cries, and in the eld in ront o him, gelada aces pop

    out o the barley, their cheeks pufed with stolen goods.

    Tey screech and run of, the babies swinging onto their

    mothers backs. Te males stand their ground, but a whirl-

    ing rock rom Derejes sling changes their minds. His charge

    wasnt a moment too soon. A large troop o geladas can strip

    a eld bare.

    As the geladas disappear over the dill edge, Dereje catches

    his breath. Te battle has been going on or months but

    is most intense now, just beore the harvest. Its as i the

    geladas can sense this is their last chance. Teyre so clever.

    he marvels, beore returning to the eld. Below him, he can

    hear harvesters singing as they cut the stalks and pile them

    into slacks. Tey have already begun threshing and win-

    nowing, and when Aweta comes to do the same up here,

    Derejes work will be nished.

    Scaring of geladas has been Derejes ull-time occupation,

    including holidays and weekends, since April. Hes missed

    a lot o school, and he cant wait to return. He misses his

    riends, and he dreams o learning English and getting a

    good job that can bring in money and an easier lie.

    But in the Simiens, humans arent the only primates that

    like to eat cultivated crops. Geladas are mountain specialists

    ound only in the Ethiopian highlands - the only surviv-

    ing species rom a once-widespread genus o grass-grazing

    primates. Tey mainly eat native grasses, but probably ever

    since humans have planted domesticated grasses, geladas

    have helped themselves to their crops.

    Geladas are easily distinguished rom baboons by the bright

    patch o skin on their chests. Te brightest chests those o

    the alpha males, who also have long tuted tails, sabre-like

    teeth and owing manes, giving them a lion- like look. Ge-

    ladas roam the highland grasslands in groups o a hundred

    or more (groups as large as 800 are regularly recorded) and

    are natural climbers, scaling rock aces with abandon.

    For Awetas amily, saving their crops rom raiding geladas

    is a major challenge. Te species is protected by Ethiopian

    law (killing them is punishable by huge nes and prison

    sentences) and so hill armers have no choice but to employ

    ull-time guards - a job that most oten alls to children such

    as Awetes younger brother Dereje, aged 12, aided by his

    sisters Debre, 10, and Maza, 6, who also tend the livestock.

    Dereje has a wide area o crops to watch over and must use

    his wits. At night, the geladas take reuge rom possible

    predators, mainly hyenas, by clambering down the clifs to

    ledges. But i there is no moonlight, the children darent

    risk travelling home. Instead they shelter in caves, herding

    their goats and cows in with them and cuddling together or

    warmth- temperatures oten drop below reezing at night.

    In winter, the Simiens are one o the ew places in Arica

    that regularly see rost and sleet, and even snow.

    As soon as the sun hits the clifs, the geladas are on the

    move. Using the clifs or cover, they can appear almost

    anywhere in a eld and then dive of again. o end them

    of, Dereje throws rocks. Hes an expert in making slings out

    o grass and can throw 30 metres (98 eet) with accuracy.

    And he doesnt rely just on his own observations to spot a

    raider. I a neighbour or goat herder in the valley below sees

    geladas, he will relay a series o alarm calls that echo of the

    clifs.

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    GELADAS AND GRASS

    15

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    16

    MOUNTAINS

    Martin and Andreas make small talk on the rst gondola

    car up the mountain. Martin looks out o the scratched

    plastic window to scan the north ace o the Eiger, one o

    Switzerlands most notorious mountain walls. He watches

    the spindrit blowing of the top and notes the direction o

    wind. Te snow will be here soon. he says in a matter-o-

    act tone. Andreas nods in agreement.

    By the time they take their skis of the gondola and walk

    lo the patrol hut. Martin has been proved right. Large,

    delicate akes smash into their patrol jackets. Ater open-ing the door and turning on the lights, Martin hits the

    AVALANCHES TO ORDER

    +46.577646, +8.005563

    Eiger, Switzerland

    Triggering Avalanches

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    AVALANCHES TO ORDER

    17

    power button on his computer. While it automatically logs

    onto his avourite website, he makes cofee. Weather charts

    and graphs spring up on the screen, detailing the storm.

    Tough the satellite suggests the snow wont hit or a ew

    more hours, the whiteness outside proves otherwise. Martin

    laughs - mountain weather is still too unpredictable even or

    the best orecasting equipment in the world. Over a metre

    today, Andreas, I reckon. again, Andreas nods.

    Later in the day, while the skier yo-yo up and down the

    slopes, the snow keeps alling. Martin and Andreas nd a

    spare moment to prepare their weapons. Martin produces a

    special key and then types in a secret code. He swings open

    the heavy door o the sae and lits out what look like giant

    sausages made rom bright red PVC. Tis is what modern

    dynamite slicks look like - just a little atter than those

    drawn in cartoons. He assembles various saety devices and

    nally attaches a long use. Explosives armed, Martin puts

    them back in the sae. Tey are ready or tomorrows battle.

    By the time its dark, Martin and Andreas ski home, sweep-

    ing or any missing skiers. More than 45cm (18 inches)

    resh snow has accumulated. Later that night, an additional

    60cm (24 inches) alls. Te patrolmen get up extra early -

    all bombing has to be nished beore the ski runs can open.

    Its still dark when the snowcat drops them at the highest

    point. By the time their skis are on and Martin has made

    the nal check on his bombs, there is enough light to move.

    Even in the white-out, they recognize the drop zones by

    the large red and white patrol poles, the only things visible

    on the mountain. Martin pulls out a dynamite stick and

    lights the use. With an underarm slinging motion, he losses

    it into the whiteness, over the edge o an unseen clif. He

    chats casually to Andreas or a moment and then glances at

    his watch - all o Martins uses are timed or two minutes,but it isnt an exact science. He counts down, ve, our,

    three, two, one, and both men cover their ears and run

    away.

    Te explosion is ollowed a ew seconds later by a thick

    thudding sound, as the snow settles and cracks in a line

    along the ridge below them. Te newest layer o snow

    begins to slide, picking up momentum as it goes. It builds

    into a roar and then hisses to a halt - thats the point o set-

    ting of avalanches: you keep them small so that they neverget big.

    Te Alps - and especially these peaks around the Eiger - are

    amous or avalanches. Even some o the nearby medieval

    churches have old avalanche walls to protect them when the

    big one sweeps into town. As recently as 1999, an ava-

    lanche smashed into Montroe, France, killing 12 people and

    destroying 20 buildings. It was a wake-up call to everyone

    in the Alps: dont let avalanche zones build up too much

    snow - destroy them when you have the chance.

    Martin and Andreas work their way down the ridge, setting

    of avalanches as they go. Most o the chutes they blast will

    protect the ski area, but as the men return to the hut, a heli-

    copter awaits. It will lilt them to a peak whose avalanches

    threaten not just the skiers but roads and the town as well.

    Hanging out the side o a helicopter, bufeted by the wind,

    Martin has a harder lime lighting the use. But he is experi-

    enced enough to keep a cool head. He leans inside the door

    and gets it working. Ten its bombs away. Te avalanches

    rom higher up are larger and leave a cloud o snow hanging

    in the air or minutes ater theyve discharged. Finally, Mar-

    tin drops the last bomb. He radios the ski-patrol hut: You

    can open the ski area now. As they ride the lit, the skiers

    are blissully unaware o the drama that has taken place this

    morning.

    Mountains can he dangerous places, and or some, thats

    part o their allure. Mountaineers regularly risk their lives

    in the hope- o reaching the summit. But its not enough

    to dismiss mountain-climbing as simple thrill-seeking

    behaviour. Mountains speak lo our spiritual side. All over

    the world, mountains are revered as sacred places. Spiritual

    leaders build monasteries, i not on mountains then on

    places with commanding views. Its almost as i mountains

    might help us see into a world beyond this one.

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    MOUNTAINS

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