LIGHT AND MOVEMENT PHOTOGRAPHY

MSHAfter looking at a British photographer known as MSH, I went on to take the following photos. These urban images are long exposures taken with a Nikon D50 and are taken from viewpoints that make you feel as if you’re a part of the action.

For these photos I used a film camera and tried to hold the camera still and then lengthened the shutter speed (so the shutter was open for longer). I took these at a fairground so that the movement of the rides were captured by the ‘light trail’ left by the bright and colourful lights of the ride. Next time I will look more at the ISO as the photo below is to light as well as using a tripod to make sure the rest of the image isn't shaky.

The above image had an interesting affect as it was the end of the film which is why it has the black strip down the side.

I went on to take more photos, using what I learnt from the last photos. This time I used a tripod. I wanted the person to be focused with the movement around them being blurry. However this was hard to achieve as the person in the image naturally moved. Also as I needed a longer shutter speed it was hard to not over exposure the image and to have a long motion blur.

I then went onto do long exposure photos of fireworks. For these photos I used a digital camera and made the shutter speed longer. For some of the photos I went on to move the camera which created light trails in different ways (depending on how the I moved the camera).

I then went on to crop some of the pictures to change the composition. By cropping the picture it changes the feel of the piece and makes what the image is more ambiguous. However by zooming in so much it lowered the quality of the picture.

I also made the background neater by making sure all of the background was the same colour with no marks on.

I tired to make the bottom right of the picture darker. However it was hard to blend it together and didn’t look as good.

For this photo I cropped it to just the bottom right part of the picture. I liked how the colours went together in that section of the photo (mainly yellows and whites).

I also cropped this picture to make an interesting composition. I like how there are some bright, vibrant light trails whereas others are more muted.

I edited the background making it darker and getting rid of the more blurry lines, leaving the sharper light trails.

Again I made the background darker and uniform. I then got rid of a few of the blurry and faded lines.

I like how in this picture there was a lot of red so I cropped part of that so it was bright red on a black background.

LIGHT PAINTINGLONG EXPOSURE

DAVID LEBEI looked at the artist David Lebe who does long exposure photos and uses light to ‘paint’ a picture. He focuses mainly on the human form.

After looking at Lebe’s work I went on to take my own photos. For these photos I used long exposure and different coloured lights. I had to use a dark room so that there was no other light that affected the photo.

I did two edits of the photo on the left. I cropped the image first to get rid of the light on the bottom and top. This also made the human form the central idea.

For this one I blurred out the background so my face wasn’t in the background.

I tried making the background black to make the image stand out more. It made the image more cartoony and surreal.

I edited the photo on the left as at some points the light wasn’t shown as it was obstructed by either the person or armchair.

I used Photoshop to join the lines up as well as make all the background black.

I went on to edit it again and made all of the background black as well as under the sofa. I joined the light trail up and got rid of some of the light flare.