REYKJAVÍK

City Guide

Meet Reykjavík, a city of contradictions – much like Iceland

itself. The northernmost capital of the world, in a country commonly described as the land of fire and ice, manages to balance the vibrant, urban lifestyle of its inhabitants with the welcoming feel of a small town. Although doors are no longer left unlocked, as they were only a few decades

ago, the city still feels very safe and prides itself on low crime rates. It is the bastion of creativity and the uniquely cosmopolitan way of life that has, in recent years, established the city’s reputation as a highly alluring destination.

The wintertime Reykjavík of December and January is also a wholly different city from the one that bathes in light during the long days of summer. Even its inhabitants have been accused of being quite contradictory themselves. Icelanders are often described as acerbically cynical, while at the same time quite open, friendly and helpful to visitors from afar.The city of Reykjavík

itself is home to 120.000 people, out of the entire Icelandic population of 320.000. However, the name Reykjavík most commonly refers to the Greater Reykjavík Area, comprising eight municipalities including the capital itself. The largest of these are Kópavogur, Hafnarfjörður and Garðabær, and the inexperienced eye will encounter some difficulty in discerning where one ends and the next begins.

The Greater Reykjavík Area has a total population of 220.000 people. Thus, an area covering just only over 1% of Iceland’s entire land area of 103.000 km2 is home to over 60% of its people.

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SETTLEMENT

The city of Reykjavík was formally founded as an official trading town in 1786, as Danish monopoly trading was abolished. By then, it had been a site of residence for over 900 years. Landnáma, or The Settlement Book, a medieval document detailing the settlement of Iceland, states that the first settler of Iceland, Ingólfur Arnarson, landed in Reykjavík in 871.

The selection of his future homestead is a story most school children in Reykjavík, and Iceland as a whole, will know by heart: as this Nordic chieftain neared land, he threw his high-seat

pillars, or öndvegissúlur, overboard, and vowed to make their landing spot his home. As fate, or the Norse Gods, would have it, the pillars drifted up on the Reykjavík shore. Ingólfur accordingly made it his home, and named the site after the steam rising from the hot geothermal pools dotting the area. A literal translation of the name Reykjavík is, consequently, Smoke Bay. Archeological remains from the early years of Reykjavík are on display at The Settlement Exhibition in the city center, for those eager to acquire deeper knowledge of life in Iceland in the 900s. Although Ingólfur Arnarsonis accredited as

the first settler of Iceland, evidence suggests that Gael monks, known as Papar, had settled in the country before him.

However, according to another medieval document

known as Íslendingabók, or The Book of Icelanders, these fled the country following Norse settlement, as the new inhabitants’ heathen ways did not quite suit their approach to life.

INDEPENDENT PEOPLE, INDEPENDENT ICELAND

Ask a foreigner what they know about Iceland and a certain ill-tempered volcano, or perhaps an eccentric singer, might be top of their list. However, many might also know that the country can stake a claim to the oldest functioning parliament in the world. The Althing was established around 930, at Þingvellir – an immensely popular destination for day trips from Reykjavík, both due its role in the country’s history and its impressive geological features.

Icelandic chieftains continued to meet at Þingvellir once a year, to discuss matters of national significance and function

as a supreme court in disputes, up until the year 1262. Following a period of clashes between chieftains and general unrest, the Icelandic Commonwealth ceded to the Norwegian crown. The kingdoms of Norway, Sweden and Denmark merged in the Kalmar Union 120 years later, and as that union was dissolved, in 1814, Iceland became a Danish dependency.

Following a strong Icelandic independence movement, coinciding with the wave of nationalism rising in Europe, Iceland gradually gained more control and was eventually granted the status of a fully sovereign state, albeit in a personal union with the

King of Denmark, in 1918. Some 25 years later, this agreement had expired and Icelanders gathered to vote on whether to terminate the union with Denmark and become a republic. With a voter turnout of over 98%, and only 0,5% voting against the creation of a republic, Icelanders’ feelings on the matter were made abundantly clear.

Thus, on June 17, 1944, Iceland regained its full

independence and has been a representative democracy and parliamentary republic ever since.

EARTH TO ICELAND: GEOLOGY AND GEOGRAPHY

Reykjavík is located on the southwest corner of Iceland, Europe’s second largest island. Apart from he Greater Reykjavík Area, the country’s largest towns are Reykjanesbær, less than 50 km away from Reykjavík, and Akureyri, in the north.

Iceland has a reputation

for its awe-inspiring natural beauty – the moon like

lava fields covered in moss, the deserts of black sand, the glaciers, lakes, volcanoes and hot springs. About 50% of the

total land area consists of mountainous lava fields and other wasteland, while another 15% is covered by glaciers. The largest of these is Vatnajökull, in the southeast, but the best known is, arguably, Eyjafjallajökull, following the volcanic eruption of 2010. Admirers of Jules Verne might also be familiar with Snæfellsjökull, as his Journey to the Center of the Earth takes place, well, in it. Geologically speaking, Iceland is the youngest country in Europe, formed 17-20 million years ago. The earth’s crust is only a third of its normal thickness in Iceland, so it should come as no surprise that the island has an impressive number of volcanoes for its size.

The island is located upon the Mid-Atlantic ridge, which marks the division between the European and North American tectonic plates. The rift between those is most clearly visible at Þingvellir National park, where the Almannagjá rift measurably broadens every year as the plates drift further apart.

The country also has extensive geothermal activity with many geysers dotting the landscape. The surplus of the superheated steam accounts for the availability of geothermal power – one of the cheapest and cleanest energy sources in the world. (A fact for which the cold-prone Icelander will say a prayer of thanks

every winter, as the heating of Reykjavík’s buildings is nowhere near as expensive as it would be in other locations).

THE FACE OF A NATION: DEMOGRAPHICS

Due to Iceland’s location, not uncommonly described as the precisely what the phrase in-the-middle-of-nowhere refers to, the country remained quite isolated up until the late 18th century. Accordingly, its population remained rather homogeneous for a very long time and, to a large extent, still is.

This fact has proved a valuable resource to medical researchers, in particular the company deCode genetics, using the isolated Icelandic gene pool in their aim to discover genetic sequences of hereditary diseases.

In the last century, however, with increasing mobility, more people of foreign descent have made Iceland their home. On January 1st 2010, numbers from

Statistical Iceland show that immigrants made up 8,2% of the Icelandic population. If second generation immigrants and other individuals of foreign descent, such as children from mixed families, are included, this number rises to 14,6%. Poles make up the largest ethnic minority in Iceland, followed by Lithuanians and Filipinos. The present day city of Reykjavík is quite multicultural, with people from over 100 countries calling it home.

During the economic boom that took place in Iceland in the 00s, which reached its peak in 2007 (and its oh-so-infamous demise in 2008), Iceland saw quite an

increase in migrant workers joining the workforce. After the crash, however, an exodus of those same workers began, with immigrant numbers now falling steadily since 2008.

THE REYKJAVÍK I.D.

Most inhabitants of Reykjavík will tell you that the city’s heart and soul is to be found in the city center, specifically within the 101 postal code (the eponymous film, 101 Reykjavík, can be recommended as good preparation for those planning to immerse themselves in the Reykjavík nightlife.) Laugavegur, the main shopping street, and the area around it,along with the area around Lækjartorg and Austurvöllur, make up the city center.

The streets are lined with restaurants, cafés,

galleries and shops selling

everything from woolen socks to diamond watches. The Greater Reykjavík Area, as previously mentioned, is made up of eight municipalities, but Reykjavík itself contains nine districts apart from the city center, each with its own character. The city is a spread-out one, with its low-density suburbs stretching far to

the north and south. Thus, the typical Reykviking’s, as the locals call themselves, identity encompasses both the villa-owner of the modern, ten-year old district of Grafarholt, as well as the bohemian, café-going hipster of downtown Reykjavík or Vesturbærinn. Likewise, its architecture ranges from the traditional low-rise wooden house, covered with the trademark brightly colored corrugated iron, to Reykjavík’s claim to skyscrapers of glass and steel. However, the tallest one of these only measures 20 stories, and is located in Kópavogur. Although Reykjavík, and the country as a whole, has close-knit ties to Scandinavia and Europe,

its location between the two continents of Europe and North America has had some influence on the city and its people. Although most Icelanders will identify more strongly with a European way of life, its closeness to North America, and, indeed, the presence of the American army in Keflavík, some 50 kilometers away, for over 60 years, has made its mark. Due to the country’s position, one of Reykjavik’s most famous buildings, Höfði, was selected as the site of the 1986 summit between Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev, which is said to have played an immensely important part in bringing the Cold War to an end.

REYKJAVÍK STAPLES

There are a few activities or sights that can be said to belong in the Reykjavík Hall of Fame. No matter what your preference, or whether you stay in the city only a short while or for months on end, you should not leave it without trying out the Reykjavík staples. They are a fundamental part of the city’s identity and culture. One such thing is the heitipotturinn, or the hot

tub, at one of the city’s many swimming pools. Many locals start their day off by going swimming, the most crucial element of which is the relaxing in the hot tub after the workout –

where the regulars discuss the week’s headlines and goings-on in the country. Although you might not understand their take on current events, an early morning swim comes highly recommended.

The pond Tjörnin (which happens to mean exactly this: the pond) in downtown Reykjavík is another of the Reykjavík hot-spots. In the summer, people stroll along

its banks while sipping their takeaway coffee; in the winter, it is by far the nicest place to go ice-skating – if you’re lucky enough to have sufficiently cold weather. All year long, regardless of weather conditions, people gather by Tjörnin to feed bread to the ducks, swans and occasional aggressive gull. You will be hard pressed to find a native Reykviking who doesn’t recall childhood trips to the pond and parents’ incessant warnings to their children not to fall in.

Following a trip to the heitipottur and Tjörnin, one of the two local treats should be consumed promptly. Icelanders are famous, or infamous, if you will, for their love of

ice cream. It’s a worthy challenge to find any other nation who will regularly brave a raging winter storm to get their fix of the cold delicacy. Should ice cream not please your palate, the pylsa, or hot dog, hopefully will. In its full glory, it is served with raw and fried onions, mustard, ketchup and remoulade, although you may customize your condiments as you please. On any given lunch hour, you might encounter high school students and hung-over musicians standing next to members of parliament at a hog dog stand, devouring a pylsa. If there ever was a Reykjavík staple, pylsa is it.

CULTURE CITY

During a stay in Reykjavík, visitors will inevitably come across a plethora of art galleries and museums, enjoy some of the numerous different concerts arranged each week, and encounter the work of some of the many Icelandic designers working in the city. Culture is positively thriving in Reykjavík and is one of the reasons for the city’s rise to fame in the last decades.

As a capital, the city is home to many cultural institutions. You have the

National Theater of Iceland, The Iceland Symphony

Orchestra, The Icelandic Opera, The National

Museum of Iceland, The National Gallery of Iceland and other, most of which are located in the heart of Reykjavík. In addition, you’ll be able to enjoy cultural institutions run by the city – the Reykjavík City Theatre and the Reykjavík Art Museum, with its three venues, the Reykjavík Museum

of Photography, the city library and the Reykjavík City Museum, where traditional, old houses with equally traditional furnishings are on display.

Apart from these institutions and all they have to offer, which is more than any short-term visitor can hope to inspect on a

stay in Reykjavík, the city lives and breathes non-institutionalized culture. Every week, you can be sure to find an impressive array of lectures, concerts, film screenings or art happenings being held in the city’s cafés, pubs, galleries and theaters. Some of these will be advertised – the brochure What’s on in Reykjavík can be picked up at many hotels and cafés in the city and can prove a good resource, but a stroll down Laugavegur with your eyes and ears peeled might just lead you to something exciting as well, as some of the city’s plentiful events are mainly advertised by word of mouth and the noise emanating from them once they get going.

ARTFUL REYKJAVÍK In the olden days, the Icelandic art scene was mainly known for its contribution to the literary world, namely, the Icelandic Sagas. The most famous of these, with their epic battles and general Viking heroism, are Egils Saga, Njáls Saga and Grettis saga. You might be interested to know that the word Saga is taken from Icelandic, where it means, plainly, “story”.

As modern Icelandic strongly resembles the Old Norse in which the sagas are written, Icelanders today should not encounter

much difficulty in reading and understanding the medieval documents. Halldór Laxness is the most famous writer of the 20th century and the only Icelander to have received a Nobel Prize. Arnaldur Indriðason, a writer of crime fiction, is arguably the most successful current Icelandic author, his novels consistently warming the first spot on bestseller lists.

A stroll around the galleries and art museums of Reykjavík will soon reveal how broad the spectrum of Icelandic art is. Enjoy the paintings of Jóhannes Kjarval from the mid 20th century at the eponymous Kjarvalsstaðir museum, admire the sculptures of Ásgrímur Jónsson,

and take in Ólafur Elíasson’s architectural feat at the Harpa Concert Hall. ...

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ARTFUL REYKJAVÍK continued... Having soaked up the established greats, step into the here and now by admiring up-and-coming talent in one of the galleries, or indeed, the graffiti art adorning selected buildings in the Reykjavík city center.

To Reykvikings, especially the hipster crowd of the 101 postal code, dressing is an art form. Accordingly,

Icelandic fashion design represents a prolific art

form. Around Laugavegur you will find names such as Steinunn, ELM, Forynja, Kron by Kronkron and other notable designers, offering

everything from elegant dresses inspired by the colors of the lava fields, to hip, colourful printed hoodies and trousers. Reykjavík also has an internationally known, flourishing music scene, with bands from every genre taking to the stage each month. Undoubtedly, Björk still remains the best known of Icelandic musicians, followed perhaps by the ethereal band Sigurrós. Bands such as Mínus, múm, Gus Gus and Mugison, to name but a few, have also reached the ears of those with a musical bent around the world. Be assured that whatever your taste in music, you should be able to find a

group or a musician in Reykjavík who shares it.

REYKJAVÍK: QUEEN OF THE NIGHT

If Iceland is known for its natural beauty, Reykjavík

might be best known for its sizzling hot nightlife.

Most of the pubs, bars and clubs to visit conveniently line Laugavegur and its surrounding streets, making the pub-crawl on weekends an easy affair. Although many guide books will have you believe that this

late night activity is called rúnturinn, exceedingly few, if any, Reykvikings will use this term today – rather applying it to the late teenage years’ pleasure of cruising the same streets in a car, longing for the day when they are old enough to join in the fun.

Be warned that locals go out late and stay out late – very late, on both counts. Bars are often open until 5.30 in the morning on Friday and

Saturday nights, though closing times vary slightly. As alcohol is quite expensive in Iceland, and especially in the downtown watering holes, locals make sure to warm up at home before their night on the town.

Do not be surprised if bars don’t start to fill up before one or two in the morning, and be prepared to walk back to your hotel or have to wait for a taxi for quite a while if you do stay the whole night. Another insider tip: if stepping out in the summertime, bring sunglasses for what is going to be a very brightly lit walk home. It is surprising how harsh the light (so very light!) of day can be after seven hours of partying.

Although locals go all out on weekends, thereby earning their reputation as party animals, bear in mind that in accordance with Icelandic law, bars, pubs and other like-minded establishments close at one at night the latest during the week. No exceptions.

DON’T WORRY - BE MERRY! FESTIVALS & FESTIVITIES

Now, although Icelanders may have a reputation for being quite cynical, they are also a festive bunch. A run through the list of annual festivals in Reykjavík should prove this.

The Reykjavík Airwaves music festival, held in October, is one of the better known of these. It has been attracting ever more visitors in recent years, as the Icelandic music scene’s reputation seems to go through a new growth spurt each year.

Reykjavík is also host to the Reykjavík Culture Night, in August, when the city center practically bursts with art happenings and people pore downtown, and the Reykjavík Art Festival in May, with a great selection of cultural events happening all over the city.

The Reykjavík Gay Pride has also become an unmissable part of summers in the city, with most everyone, from toddlers to grandmothers, joining in the festivities and cheering the Pride Parade on.

The Reykjavík International Film Festival and its appealing program attracts many visitors, as does the Food and Fun festival in February, featuring accomplished chefs from all over the world. There’s also the Sequences art festival, the Lókal international theater festival, the Reykjavík Jazz Festival, and many more, both in the city itself and other municipalities. Hafnarfjörður even boasts a Viking festival. Apart from these organized events, Icelanders celebrate a lot of things, and the atmosphere of general merriment is certainly something to enjoy. ...

FESTIVALS & FESTIVITIES continued...

Christmas is a grand affair, with the brilliantly lighted Laugavegur taking central place once again in the days and weeks running up to the holiday. Icelandic folklore features not one but thirteen Santas, known as the Yule lads and believed to be a benignly mischievous bunch.

New Year’s Eve sees locals

going infamously mad in matters of fireworks and

the lighting thereof, with Reykjavík partying taking center stage after midnight. Not to be missed, in

January and February, the Old Norse month of Þorri stakes it claim to Icelanders’ festive vein – and locals celebrate it in the traditional way; by eating lots of cured, salted and putrid food.

The Independence Day, June 17th, and the first weekend of August are also excellent dates to work into an itinerary, as Icelanders first celebrate their independence, and then flock to any of the numerous outdoors festivals being held all over the country on the Bank Holiday weekend – leaving the city peaceful and quiet for the few who remain. Not to despair though; there is, of course, a festival for the ones left behind as well.

THE PRICE TO PAY: THE COSTS

In 2006, at the height of what came to be known as the Icelandic boom, Reykjavík ranked as the third most expensive city to live in worldwide, in a study by The Economist magazine. However, in the wake of the economic crisis that struck with devastating force in 2008, Reykjavík has become less expensive for travelers with other currencies than the Icelandic Krona to their names. A tip would be not to celebrate this fact too loudly in the presence of Icelanders, who have had to face lower wages and sharply increased unemployment

in the last few years and are, understandably, non-to-cheery about it.

Although Reykjavík now ranks as one of the cheapest Western European cities, it is

still far from a bargain. Accommodation prices vary. A hostel bed will set you back around 2.800 ISK, or $25 per night, while a single room at a moderately-priced hotel might cost around $95 in the low season, but rise to around $150 during high season, which lasts from May to September.

Expect to pay between 2.000 and 2.500 ISK ($17-23) for a bistro-style main course, and around 4-6.000 ($35-50) for an a la carte main at a fancier establishment. A three course set menu might go for around 7.000 ISK ($60), although prices vary between restaurants, and of course, whether you are going for catch of the

day or the reindeer fillet with a lobster tail side. Alcohol and tobacco are notably expensive in

Iceland, due to high tariffs, so a rummage through the duty free store at the airport might just be an excellent idea. A draft beer in a bar or restaurant will cost around 700-900 ISK ($6-8), although pubs often have special offers, especially on Wednesdays, Thursdays and during the early hours of the evening on weekends. Transportation, both rental cars and taxis, is also quite expensive. The public bus system should get you anywhere you need or want to go within Reykjavík, for a fee of 280 ISK ($2.50) per trip.

THE REYKJAVÍK WEATHER REPORT

You should be warned that some locals’ favorite summer pastime is sitting in a café, watching bewildered, inappropriately attired tourists struggle through the gale in their shorts. That is not to say that weather in Reykjavík is consistently bad, wet or windy. However, it is quite temperamental, like everywhere else in the country, and can change at a moment’s notice. You could experience rain, hail and sun all in the same hour, so should be advised to take a leaf out of the locals’ book and pack your

sweater and windbreaker when you leave your lodgings, even though the sun is beaming down at you from a clear sky and temperatures are balmy.

Reykjavík has a sub polar oceanic climate. This may sound somewhat unappealing, but thanks to the Gulf Stream gracing the southern shore of Iceland with its presence, Reykjavík winters are quite mild. Temperatures rarely drop below -15°C (5°F) in winter, not much colder than New York City, and hover around 10-15°C (50-60°F) in summer, although summers have been getting somewhat warmer in recent years. A heat record was broken in 2008, when temperatures in Reykjavík

reached 26,2°C (79°F) in July. Temperatures have not dropped below -20°C (-4°F) since the winter of 1971.

THE BIG FOUR: BJÖRK

In every country you visit, there are bound to be a few nation-wide approved topics of conversation. In Reykjavik, strike up a conversation about any of the Big Four and you should, without a doubt, be in for the long run. Björk, of course, has long been considered one of Iceland’s national treasures.

Her rise to fame and fortune came at a time

long before people got famous for pranks on Youtube or a song on Myspace and the breaking of international markets was really a hard goal to achieve. The singer’s

career spans decades, ten albums and an impressive array of music styles.

Now, having been in Reykjavík for a couple of days already, you might be getting an inkling that the singer’s eccentric dress sense does not

look quite as out there to Reykvikings as it might do to other nations – who, for instance, still scoff at the idea of showing up to the Oscars in a swan dress. At the height of her Debut-phase, (her international debut and the album of the same name, that is),

the young ladies of Reykjavík would more often than not show up for family events with the multi-bun hairdo Björk made famous, and a bindi between their eyes. If you are looking to acquaint yourself with Björk’s music, head to your nearest record store.

Try Debut, for the sound that made her famous, Medúlla for the eerie otherworldly qualities of Björk’s a cappella voice, or Glinggló, a hugely popular record in Iceland, where Björk sings jazzy tunes loved by the nation as a whole.

THE BIG FOUR: LAXNESS

As previously mentioned, Halldór Laxness is the country’s most respected and beloved author.

Awarded the Nobel Prize in 1955, he is accredited

with the revolutionizing of Icelandic literature. Although Laxness lived in the countryside, not far from Mosfellsbær, he was close enough to Reykjavík for the city’s inhabitants to consider him one of them. Laxness passed away in 1998. His home, at Gljúfrasteinn, has been turned into a museum and makes for an interesting visit for literary minded visitors.

Icelanders truly are a nation of literature, and the country boasts 99,9% literacy rates. The sagas, of course, represent a real treasure of medieval text and even historical data, to some extent. Any given year, around Christmas, the annual crop of Icelandic and translated books – fiction, fact and everything in between - floods the bookstores. Legend has it that if a person does not receive any clothing for Christmas, the Yule Cat will arrive to snack on said person, which unavoidably must be considered a pretty bleak prospect. However, it is considered almost as depressing not to receive any books. Icelanders love literature, and they probably love

Laxness most of all the authors who’ve ever worked within the country. A selection of his novels is compulsory reading in Icelandic schools, but this should not scare you away from getting your hands on a translated copy. Independent people, about a farmer’s struggle to make a living and for independence, is probably his most famous one.

For the more artistically minded, World Light follows the poet and dreamer Ólafur Kárason„light Viking“, and contains passages of amazingly beautiful prose. Salka Valka follows the heroine of the same name as she grows up and faces a multitude of challenges in a typical, poor Icelandic

fishing village in the first half of the 20th century. For those looking for something about the city, Atom Station follows the country girl Ugla as she takes on the position of a maid at a member of parliament’s house in Reykjavík.

THE BIG FOUR: VIGDÍS FINN-BOGADÓTTIR

Icelandic names can be confusing, and this one might not be well remembered by all. However, if there ever was a person that Icelanders can just agree on unanimously respecting, and even loving, Ms. Finnbogadóttir would probably be the one. Frú Vigdís Finnbogadóttir was elected President of Iceland in 1980, thereby becoming the first female president in the history of the world. She is an icon of ambition and dignity to many, and proved to be an invaluable role-model to the girls and women of Iceland.

If gender equality should come up as a conversation topic, any young Icelandic woman in her twenties or thirties would probably tell you that Finnbogadóttir’s impact on Icelandic society was immeasurable.

At the time of her election, Finnbogadóttir was the Artistic Director of the Reykjavík Theater Company. She was also a single mother, a fact some found should automatically disqualify her from the campaign. This sentiment seemed mainly to be based on the fact that she didn’t have a wife to run the home at Bessastaðir, where the President traditionally

has his seat. Indeed, by watching old news clippings and interviews in the months leading up to the election, it is quite easy to deduct that Icelandic society, in terms of gender equality, can be divided into the eras of before and after Vigdís Finnbogadóttir.

Finnbogadóttir served as president for 16 years, and

is still the longest-serving, elected, female head of state of any country to date. Today, she is a Unesco Goodwill Ambassador.

THE BIG FOUR: EYJAFJALLA-JÖKULL

As luck would have it, the ill-tempered volcano that upset the plans of millions of travelers in 2010, and was accordingly the topic of much discussion on news broadcasts around the world, was an Icelandic one – with the easily pronounced name of Eyjafjallajökull. It could have been Hekla. It wasn’t. So while newscasters

worldwide struggled to twist their tongue into

shape around the volcano’s name, Icelanders enjoyed a good laugh – about the pronunciation difficulties, that is, not the huge impact

the eruption had on just about everyone trying to get from somewhere to somewhere else. Volcanic activity in Iceland is quite high, with a large-scale eruption coming the nation’s way about every five years. Had the ash from

Eyjafjallajökull not proved to be such a problem to Europe, the eruption would arguably not be quite as memorable as it is. Due to its infamy, a crop of products related to the eruption hit the shelves in the weeks and months following it. You should

be able to find all kinds of clothing somehow marked with the volcano’s name, buy ash from the eruption in small vials, and leaf through books with breathtaking pictures at any given bookstore. The latest product to be released is of a slightly different nature: the Eyjafjallajökull perfume is now available for purchase. The vote is still out on how a perfume inspired by a volcanic eruption smells. Hopefully, not too sulphuric.

ICELANDIC: FROM A TO Ö

As you are sure to find out during a stay in Reykjavík, Eyjafjallajökull is not the only Icelandic word that could prove difficult to pronounce.

Icelandic is a Germanic language, more specifically

belonging to the West Nordic branch of the North Germanic Scandinavian languages, such as Norwegian and Faroese.

As Icelandic resembles the Old Norse much more than other current Scandinavian languages, it is somewhat easier for Icelanders to understand languages such as Danish, Norwegian and Swedish, at least in their written form, than the other way around. Anyone inspired to learn Icelandic would soon find out that it is not the easiest task to undertake. Modern Icelandic is a heavily inflicted language with four cases. Furthermore,

Icelandic nouns can have one out of three grammatical genders – providing foreign learners with plenty of opportunities to consider why on earth a given object would be a he, she or an it, in a grammatical sense. (The book: she. The fridge: he. The broom: it. You’re welcome.)The Icelandic alphabet has 32 letters, the most foreign-looking of which would probably be æ, ö, þ and ð. A few useful words to know would be: Góðan daginn – good dayGóða kvöldið – good eveningTakk – thank youSjáumst! – see you laterBjór – beerAnd of course, the useful phrase of Einn bjór, takk!

Meaning? Einn means one. The meaning can hopefully be deduced from that information.

SPORTS

Icelanders like their sports just as much as the next nation.

The most popular sports would be football, as in soccer, track and field, swimming, skiing, basketball and handball – often considered the national sport. Iceland’s national team is one of the top-ranked teams in the world.

The year of 2008 saw the men’s national team win a silver medal in the Olympics

– no small feat for a country of around 300,000

people, as Icelanders will probably be prone to point out to you, should

the talk turn to sports.Other notable achievements in the nation’s sporting history are the considerable success of the Icelandic national women’s soccer team, and Iceland’s success in the World’s Strongest Man competition, with 12 wins shared between four contestants. The country also has great conditions for skiing and snowboarding, with the Bláfjöll and Skálafell areas located at a convenient distance from Reykjavík.

FOOD – AND FUN

The Icelandic diet used to be quite homogenous, like the nation itself. In later years and decades, as Reykjavík has become an increasingly multicultural city, the country’s cuisine has been influenced as well. In Reykjavík you will find representatives for many world-known and appreciated cuisines; Thai food, Indian food, Chinese, Balkan, Italian, French and so on and on.

The restaurants focusing on Icelandic cuisine range from the ones serving the traditional, homey fair, to ones inspired by the slow food movement and concentrating on local,

fresh ingredients in new and exciting combinations.Icelandic dietary staples are lamb, dairy and fish – abundantly available. A famous dairy product is skyr, a thick yogurt-like product usually sweetened before consumption. These raw materials can be, and are, manipulated into

vastly different dishes.For instance, you could order up a plate of smoked cod with brambleberry granita or blackberry and cinnamon marinated lamb. In other places, you’ll have a change to enjoy the traditional Icelandic fair of hangikjöt (smoked lamb), rúgbrauð (dense, dark and sweet rye bread, enjoyed with a large

knob of butter), flatkökur (flatbread) or plokkfiskur (a traditional fish stew, usually served with rúgbrauð and a glass of ice-cold milk). On the restaurant scene

you are also sure to encounter some reindeer

from the east coast of Iceland, salmon and trout from the rivers, seabirds and waterfowl and in some locations, minke whale for the brave of heart. Seasonings and flavors will surely include rhubarb, crowberry, blueberry, wild mushrooms, angelica and wild thyme, which goes extremely well with the famous Icelandic lamb, and might just be the ultimate flavor of Iceland.

THE BUILDING BLOCKS: REYKJAVÍK ARCHITECTURE

Reykjavík architecture traditionally draws from Scandinavian influences, while contemporary architecture has many varying styles. It is, however, mainly low-rise.

A stroll around the city will lead you to multiple sites of architectural interest. The Reykjavík skyline is dominated by the Hallgrímskirkja church. Located on top of the Skólavörðuholt hill, the church tower is visible from most locations in the city center.

Take the elevator to the top of the tower to enjoy panoramic views of the city. From Hallgrímskirkja tower, you’ll quickly realize the haphazard layout of the old city center, where buildings in a multitude of bright colors seem to tumble down the hills.

Another spot for a nice panoramic view of the city, and a landmark itself, is Perlan, a large domed structure that rests upon water tanks on top of the Öskjuhlíð hill. Iceland’s most famous architect, and the one who has arguably put the greatest mark on the Reykjavík cityscape, was Guðjón Samúelsson. His designs include the University of Iceland, ...

THE BUILDING BLOCKS: REYKJAVÍK ARCHITECTURE

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the National Theatre, the Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Sundhöllin swimming pool, and, of course, Hallgrímskirkja church.Other buildings of interest include the Nordic House,

designed by famed Finnish architect and

designer Alvar Aalto, the old stone building where the Althing now resides, and The Culture House, the latter two the designs of Danish architects.

At Tjörnin pond you can take in a good example of contemporary Icelandic architecture in the form of the City Hall, designed by Studio Granda and built in 1992. Its design caused some controversy and the building was considered by some to be a scandalous interference with the old school feel of other buildings bordering the pond.

The most recent addition to the Reykjavík landmarks is the Harpa Concert Hall, by the Reykjavík harbor, still under construction at the time of writing. It’s multi-faceted glass facades, Henning Larsen Architects, are sure to put their mark on the face of the city for decades to come.