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link 3 /2010 04 TECHNOLOGY At the customer’s service – Rieter technologists 08 TECHNOLOGY Through thick and thin with Rieter’s VARIOspin 14 OUR CUSTOMERS Santana Textiles – a leading South American denim manufacturer 21 PRODUCT NEWS New RSB-D 45 drawframe for enhanced quality and flexibility The customer magazine of Rieter Spun Yarn Systems Vol. 22 / No . 56 . November 2010 / EN

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link 3 /2010

04 TECHNOLOGY At the customer’s service – Rieter technologists 08 TECHNOLOGY Through thick and thin with Rieter’s VARIOspin 14 OUR CUSTOMERS Santana Textiles – a leading South American denim manufacturer 21 PRODUCT NEWS New RSB-D 45 drawframe for enhanced quality and flexibility

The customer magazine of Rieter Spun Yarn Systems

Vol. 22 / No . 56 . November 2010 / EN

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CONTENTS

Cover:Discussion in the Winterthur textile

laboratory: left to right, Oswald

Baldischwieler and Cordula Becker.

Publisher: Rieter Spun Yarn Systems

Editor-in-chief: Nadia Qaud

Copyright: © 2010 Rieter Machine Works Ltd.,

Klosterstrasse 20, CH-8406 Winterthur,

www.rieter.com, [email protected]

Reprints permitted, subject to prior ap-

proval; specimen copies requested.

Design and production: Marketing Rieter CZ s.r.o., P. Bielik

03  EDITORIAL 

  TECHNOLOGY04  At the customer’s service – Rieter technologists Learn how Rieter acquires, evaluates and pools

technological know-how, and passes it on to its customers. A glance behind the scenes of Rieter’s textile technology activities.

08  Through thick and thin with Rieter’s VARIOspin Used for yarns with individual characteristics – VARIOspin

fancy yarn systems. For ring-spun, compact and rotor-spun yarns.

10  VARIOspin – for individual effects in ring-spun and compact yarns

12  Rotor-spun yarns with styling effects for “fancy denim”

OUR CUSTOMERS14  Santana Textiles – a leading South American denim 

manufacturer   An article about Santana Textiles – one of Brazil’s most

successful denim manufacturers.

16  The Turkish textile industry on course for success

19  Linen – fiber with a difference

  PRODUCT NEWS21  New RSB-D 45 drawframe for more quality and flexibility A frequency-controlled main drive, CLEANtube for clean

sliver coiling and rapid changes in sliver spacing – these are the new features for flexible drawframe settings and high sliver quality.

  PARTS23  Upgrade package for autoleveler drawframes

  RIETER INSIDE24  Interesting information about spinning preparation 

  EVENTS25  Successful ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 in Shanghai

27  Rieter supports the “FACTOR+” campaign

�LINK 56 . 3 /2010

EDITORIAL

Dear LINK readers Textile technology is exciting and will also remain exciting. New fibers keep appearing on the market or the world of fashion calls for yarns with specific properties. This continually poses challenges for our customers and our spinning machines.

Technology – the key to success How can these new fibers be spun into yarn with good wearing properties? How can specific yarn properties be achieved? Are new machine elements or components needed for this? Are there other ways of producing yarn at lower cost? Which processes can be eliminated, which processes modified?

Rieter technologists are deployed worldwide at the customers’ service – optimizing, researching and de-veloping. Additional technologists are engaged in basic research to provide the sound foundation for innovations and optimizations on Rieter machines.

New technology for linenIn this issue of LINK we report in detail on a pilot project to spin linen on the R 40 rotor spinning ma-chine. This new linen-processing technology has been put into practice by our customer in Belarus, Orsha Linen Mill.

Technology consulting worldwideRieter offers technology consulting services prior to sale and after installation of the machinery. Trials are conducted with customers’ materials to evaluate the processing method that is the best in technological terms or the most economical. 5 SpinCenters are in operation for Rieter customers worldwide. The Spin-Center in Winterthur covers all production stages and can demonstrate any process to customers, from fiber to yarn. 22 technologists are employed world-wide for technological consulting in spinning mills.

Learn how Rieter gathers technological know-how about spinning and makes it available to all its in-house textile technologists – always with the goal of being able to pass on this experience to our custom-ers.

Technology for spinning fancy yarnsThe market decides which effects are required in yarns. Rieter offers all possibilities for this – in ring-spun and rotor-spun yarns. Inform yourselves about fancy yarns in this issue of LINK: slub yarns, multi-count yarns, multi-twist yarns and multi-effect yarns.

Adaptability is called for The observation of nature already made by Charles Darwin (1809–1892) also applies in textile machin-ery manufacture and in spinning mills: “It’s neither the strongest nor the most intelligent species which survives, but rather the most adaptable.” (Fig. 1)

We do all we can to stay adaptable, identify market trends and embody them in new products.

New technologies and the high flexibility of Rieter machines give our customers the ability to adapt rapidly to changing market conditions. 10-200 •

Peter Gnägi

CEO Division Textile Winterthur [email protected]

Fig. 1 Only the most adaptable survive – not only in nature.

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At the customer’s service –  Rieter technologistsLearn how Rieter acquires, evaluates and pools technological know-how and passes it on to its customers. A glance behind the scenes of Rieter’s textile technology activities.

From fiber bale to light summer dress – when Rieter develops a new spinning process all process stages are studied by Rieter’s textile technologists, down to the smallest detail. Fiber strength, yarn tenacity, yarn regularity, pilling tendency, dye receptivity and washing behavior, to mention only a few of the tests performed.

We pursue research – you benefit Rieter employs a staff of more than �0 to conduct studies and tests of the entire spinning system. A further 25 textile technologists and textile engi-neers are employed in research and development.

And all these technologists ask themselves every day: what are the settings at which our spinning ma-chines operate ideally? How can processes in the mill be improved? What are the working limits of

fiber materials? What changes can be made on ma-chines in future in order to achieve better yarn re-sults? How can we optimize the process in order to spin as economically as possible?

“Our entire department is at the customer’s service”, stresses Harald Schwippl, Head of Rieter’s central Technology Department. “In the case of infrequent areas of application or new processes spinning tri-als are performed for customers prior to sale of the installation. We can then be sure how these yarns should be processed. We pass on our technological know-how to customers to help them achieve suc-cess”.

Knowledge management in technologyA company’s greatest asset is its know-how in its core competencies. This knowledge used to be passed on from generation to generation. Modern-day mobili-ty of employment has increased personnel fluctua-tion. When an employee leaves, the company loses the know-how that has been passed on. New em-ployees have to be trained and need to acquire ex-perience. The intellectual capital stored in the minds of experienced employees is invaluable for a com-pany’s success. This is especially true in the case of technologists.

What options does a company have to prevent the loss of this know-how? At Rieter several approaches are adopted to ensure that knowledge is not mere-ly stored in the minds of individuals, but becomes the common property of the Technology Department. Careful planning and conduct of trials, automatic collection of laboratory data, conscientious analyses and reports, meetings for exchanging experience and a central database system are some of the important components for collecting this wealth of experience.

A database for all technologistsThe central technology database, in which the test results and technological experience of the past 10 years are stored, serves as a collective memory. Key-word-based retrieval options enable the collected test results to be obtained quickly and easily.

Laboratory analyses:

FiberSliverYarnWeaveKnit

•••••

Technology  database

Fig. 1 All results of spinning trials, research and develop-ment are stored in the technology database.

Transfer of know-how and data

Transfer of know-how and data

Development studies & basic research

Spinning trials in the Spin-Center prior to sale

Spinning trials in the Spin-Center after sale

Spinning trials in the cus-tomer’s mill

Downstream processing studies

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we test and measure the numerous settings in the var-ious process stages. This quantity of material enables us to extend the trials through to the end product”.

The 8 employees in the SpinCenter in Winterthur have a total of 234 years of experience. A long-standing, well-coordinated team with invaluable know-how that repeatedly enables ways and means to be found for spinning unusual materials for customers. Knowledge and facts can be stored in a database, but the creativ-ity and expertise of the team are still always needed to pursue new, problem-solving approaches on the ba-sis of them.

New approaches – new experienceThe learning curve during the trials is extremely steep when new machines, new technologies or process flows are being introduced. Numerous trials were con-ducted in the SpinCenter with the C 60 card with in-tegrated drawframe module in order to ascertain the effect on yarn values of shortening the process. These trials reveal the limits of maximum productivity or the spin-out limits. This enables Rieter to provide accu-rate data on which customers can rely.

When selling an integrated installation – from bale opening to yarn – the sales engineers obtain the as-surance of the technologists before confirming proc-essability. The number and process sequence of the machines employed are defined.

Basic research for new developments  The Process Analytics Department primarily stud-ies the influence of new machines and processes on yarn technology through to downstream processing. The findings obtained are not only fed into the data-base. This knowledge is discussed in team meetings together with the development departments. In this way developments are optimized or new ideas gen-erated for spinning equipment and machine compo-nents.

Jürg Grest, a meticulous supervisor of the technol-ogy database, ensures that the data are filed in such a way that they can subsequently be retrieved us-ing a wide variety of keywords. “The most frequent analysis is based on the keyword ‘fiber material’. In this way our technologists find out quickly and easily whether a certain fiber quality has already been spun previously. If a trial has been conducted, the settings of all spinning machines for this specific fiber materi-al are seen immediately. Know-how once acquired is therefore available to all technologists at any time”.

Loading the databaseA database is worthless in itself. The central technol-ogy database at Rieter is loaded with data by more than 70 employees in technology departments. The data are pooled online from 5 locations in 4 coun-tries. Most of the trials conducted for customers re-sult in new findings and results which can be passed on (Fig. 1).

Spinning trials for customers prior to sale “We don’t conduct any spinning trials with standard materials such as cotton, viscose or cotton/polyester. Appropriate empirical values are already integrated in the Sales Department’s configuration database. The machines are equipped in accordance with these val-ues”, explains Anton Stanek, who specifies all spin-ning schedules of the SpinCenter for the trials.

After certain process stages, such as carding, combing or drafting, the intermediate products are tested by Rieter in the laboratory. Processing of the materials continues when the ideal setting of the relevant ma-chine has been established. The influence of specific settings on the finished yarn is identified in this way. This laborious basic research can seldom be pursued in a working spinning mill. It would interfere too se-verely with the normal production process. All Rieter customers therefore benefit from the findings of these basic trials. “20% of the customers are present at these spinning trials in the SpinCenter in order to see the re-sults for themselves. They often then take the finished yarn with them and conduct comparative tests in their own laboratory”, explains Gerhard Miersch, who has headed the SpinCenter in Winterthur for the past 18 years. “When we perform trials from the bale, approx. 1 000 kg of fiber material is required. Only then can

Fig. 2  (left to right) Marcel Bosshard and Gerhard Miersch during a spinning trial for customers at the Spin-Center in Winterthur.

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Peter Funk, textile engineer to the core, recounts ex-perience from his daily work. “Everyday routine is something unknown to us in Process Analytics. New projects keep coming in for us to study. It’s good to see the spheres of application of the machines ex-panding – on the basis of findings from our studies. We had an influence on the development of the core yarn device for ring-spinning and ComforSpin® ma-chines”.

Oswald Baldischwieler, also from the Process Ana-lytics Department, enjoys research work: “We ran numerous trials for the new J 10 air-jet spinning ma-chine in order to widen the range of raw materials and thus the machine’s sphere of applications. By comparing the four spinning processes through to the end product we were able to present the advan-tages of the different processes clearly and compile fundamental principles for choosing the ideal spin-ning process on the basis of the end product”.

From fiber to end productNot only spinning trials are conducted in the Proc-ess Analytics Department. The yarns are processed further: woven or knitted into fabrics, then dyed and finished. Only in this way can the technologists dis-cover what advantages Rieter yarns have in subse-quent stages of textile processing.

These findings are continuously published so that Rieter customers can cite these advantages and thus gain new yarn customers. News about spinning proc-esses and Rieter yarns can be seen and heard again and again in textile trade magazines, at trade shows, symposia and conferences, and of course in the LINK customer magazine.

Detailed technological comparisons from fiber through to end product provide the basic data for all these publications. The finished woven and knitted fabrics produced in these trials are available as sam-ples during sales discussions and at trade shows. Af-ter all, people in the textile trade want to see, sense, grasp and feel the difference.

Showtime for weaves and knits More than 2 000 different fabric samples, the results of trials conducted over the past 10 years, are availa-ble in the showroom in Winterthur. The manufactur-ing history of each and every fabric sample is stored, enabling the spinning machines and settings used for the yarn in question to be traced in detail. These fabrics are prepared and meticulously archived as samples in the showroom in Winterthur.

Customer service technologists – on duty worldwideIt can happen that lines already installed in custom-ers’ mills fail to produce the required yarn values, or too many ends down occur during spinning or downstream processing. Peter Pridöhl, Head of Op-erations for customer technologists, dispatches his specialists from Winterthur all over the globe. More than 15 additional technologists are also stationed in the Chinese and Indian markets. 80% of all prob-lems are resolved by technologists optimizing the machines. Machine settings are modified, spinning agents changed or spinning schedules revised. For example, ends down frequency on the air-jet spinning machine was reduced to �0% by adjust-ment of the drafting passages and correct draft dis-tribution on the drawframe.

Fig. 4 Karin Steiger preparing fabric samples for the showroom in Winterthur.

Fig. 3 The difference in the end product is tan-gible. Harald Schwippl in discussion with a customer in the show-room in Winterthur.

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At the center of data collection – Rieter’s textile laboratory Numerous testing instruments are used under stand-ardized testing conditions in Rieter’s fully air-con-ditioned textile laboratory. The SpinCenter, the Process Analytics Department and the technologists are continuously bringing new trials for analysis and testing. Only with the test results from the textile laboratory can decisions be made on which machine settings and technology components produce better results.

Cordula Becker, an experienced textile engineer, heads the laboratory in Winterthur. “All test data are transmitted automatically to the central technology database. The technologists can therefore still trace the data years later”.

Mona Qaud has coordinated the 5 textile laboratories at all Rieter’s facilities for the past 12 years. “Our tex-tile laboratories offer numerous test methods world-wide: from fiber to yarn studies and investigations of woven and knitted fabrics. In the Winterthur labo-ratory we test fibers, slivers, yarns and fabrics. Our customers can also avail themselves of this service. We conduct 10% of all tests – against payment – for spinning mills, external customers and cotton trad-ers who do not have the relevant testing instruments in-house. We also test new testing instruments from

Nadia QaudProject Manager Marketing Winterthur [email protected]

a wide range of manufacturers and thus support the development of new testing methods”.

Treasure chest of experienceThe technological expertise of the different depart-ments is Rieter’s store of experience. The technology database is the treasure chest in which this experi-ence is collected. Each new trial conducted for a cus-tomer, every experience with new material or with newly developed machines is a further pearl to be added to this treasury. Today’s treasure maps are modern knowledge databases. Enter a keyword and the information is found immediately. Rieter shares these pearls with customers. Our knowledge arises from cooperation with customers. Customers' ideas and visions are often the starting point for the tri-als conducted by Rieter. This enables Rieter to de-velop and supply innovative products and services that meet the market’s needs. 10-201 •

The test methods used in the textile laboratory include: 

For fibers: cotton classification, fiber length, fiber count, fiber strength, neps, trash, degree of maturity, stickiness, fiber crimp, adhesion length.

For yarns: yarn count, irregularity, hairiness, trash, yarn reflex, weave/knit simulation, tenacity/elongation, yarn twist, Staff test, friction balance.

For fabrics: structure, mass per unit area, yarn count, visual evaluation, hand evaluation, pilling, abrasion resistance.

If you are interested in laboratory tests, please contact [email protected].

Fig. 5 Monika Burren performs yarn tests in the textile laboratory in Winterthur.

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TECHNOLOGY

Through thick and thin –  with Rieter’s VARIOspinUsed  for  yarns  with  individual  characteristics  –  the  VARIOspin  fancy yarn system. For ring-spun, compact and rotor-spun yarns.

The term “fancy yarns” refers to yarns contain-ing deliberately induced yarn irregularities arising from changes in yarn twist and/or yarn mass (thick or thin places). Applications for fancy yarns range from home textiles to upholstery fabrics and sophis-ticated, stylish fabrics for the garment industry. Still classed as a niche product only a few years ago, fan-cy yarns are now an essential feature of modern fash-ion.

When industrial yarn manufacturing began, spinning machines produced these irregularities inadvertent-ly – as defects, so to speak. They gave the yarn an individual, irregular character, resembling the ap-pearance of a linen fabric. The modern generation of spinning machines produce very uniform yarns. This “smooth” yarn is simply unwanted for many areas of application, since it is devoid of individual charac-ter. Effects are therefore deliberately produced for

specific spheres of application to imitate the defects from earlier days. In the denim segment in particular, i.e. for jeans fab-rics, most end products are manufactured from fancy yarns. Fancy yarn for denim features effects which appear natural. These are effects which are very sim-ilar to natural yarn defects. The desired effects can be freely formed and repro-duced with 100% accuracy using the VARIOspin option on the ring-spinning, ComforSpin® or rotor-spinning machine. The state-of-the-art, frequency-controlled drive system with inverters, which can be freely controlled via special programs, makes this possible.

Terminology of VARIOspin fancy yarns 

Base yarn The base yarn is the “normal” yarn, to which the ef-fects are applied. There is usually a defined length of base yarn between each of the effects. In the case of Rieter’s VARIOspin fancy yarn system the base yarn is always by definition equivalent to a 0% change in mass. An effect which is twice as thick as the base yarn thus has a change in mass of 100%.

In order to understand the complex theory of fancy yarn manufacture it is helpful to look carefully at the yarn diagrams reproduced here. Delivery speed is varied in order to change yarn twist. Increases or decreases in mass are controlled by changes in fiber feed. In the case of ring spinning this is achieved by adjusting the draft in the drafting system, in rotor spinning by changing the feed speed.

The four options for yarn designers A basic distinction is made between four types of fancy yarns: slub yarn, multi-count yarn, multi-twist yarn and multi-effect yarn.

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TECHNOLOGY

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1. Slub yarn

2. Multi-count yarn

3. Multi-twist yarn

4. Multi-effect yarn

Slub yarn is the best-known and most frequently used fancy yarn. The rather short effects (�-10 cm) are the trademark of slub yarns. The effect length can never be shorter than the length of the staple fibers. Slub yarns are understood to be fancy yarns featuring a change in mass at constant spindle speed with varying twist factor a. This means that the twist per meter in the yarn remains the same. This is achieved by means of different drafts at constant spindle speed.

A multi-count yarn is a fancy yarn consisting of lengths of dif-ferent yarn counts. As a rule the effects in a multi-count yarn tend to be long, between 10 and 50 cm. The yarn is spun by means of changes in mass with correspondingly modified spindle speed. This means that the twist in the yarn is modi-fied in such a way that twist factor a remains constant with different fiber mass.

A multi-twist yarn is a fancy yarn which features no chang-es in mass. Draft remains constant. Only the yarn twist and thus twist factor a varies. As a rule multi-twist yarns are pro-duced with rather long effects of 10-50 cm. More or fewer twists change yarn volume and dyeing behavior. This pro-duces interesting light/dark yarn effects in denim fabrics.

Multi-effect yarn is a combination of everything: slub yarn, multi-count yarn and multi-twist yarn. With VARIOspin the variations can also be freely programmed in the case of multi-effect yarn. A change in mass can be combined with a twist factor a which is not predefined. This means that the twist and change in mass in the yarn can be freely selected. 10-202 •

Multi-effect yarnMulti-count yarnSlub yarn Multi-twist yarn

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VARIOspin – for individual  effects in ring-spun and compact yarnsIntegrated,  creative  and  efficient.  VARIOspin  and  VARIOspinData  –  the intelligent fancy yarn system by Rieter – from design to production.

How does VARIOspin work in ring spinning or com-pact spinning? The secret is the separate actuation of the drafting system drives, which is user-program-mable.

FLEXIdraft drafting system driveFeed bottom roller (A) and center bottom roller (B) are driven by an inverter-controlled motor. These two bottom rollers are also responsible for the break draft. Delivery bottom roller (C) is driven separately by another inverter-controlled motor (Fig. 1).

The independently driven bottom rollers of the draft-ing system can thus change their rotation speed in accordance with a preset program, i.e. a required yarn effect.

Slub yarn – change in mass without modifying twist Changes in mass are effected via control of the feed bottom roller and center bottom roller. For an increase in mass they are accelerated, thus reducing the total draft. For a reduction in mass they are slowed down, i.e. total draft is increased. Yarn delivery in m/min and spindle speed remain constant.

Multi-count yarn and multi-effect yarn – change in mass with modification in twistIf spinning is performed with modified twist, all draft-ing system bottom rollers change their peripheral speed simultaneously – in coordination with each oth-er. Yarn delivery in m/min is therefore also changed.

VARIOspinDataBehind every fancy yarn system there is a program with which the effects can be defined, i.e. pro-grammed. The program for Rieter ring-spinning and ComforSpin® machines is VARIOspinData. VARIO-spinData enables effect patterns and their repeats to be programmed, visualized, optimized and managed on the computer.

The effect patterns created can simply be transferred to any Rieter ring-spinning or ComforSpin® machine with a VARIOspin device via a USB stick or optionally via the SPIDERweb data collection system.

Diversity of effects with VARIOspinDataVARIOspinData enables a multitude of electronical-ly generated effects to be achieved, e.g. very short effects, randomly generated effects and other varia-tions and combinations of effects.

No thin places before or after the effect with  VARIOspinWith conventional fancy yarn systems thin places frequently occur before or after an effect – a poten-tial weak point in the yarn which leads to problems in downstream processing. In the case of VARIOspin great importance was attached to preventing thin places before or after an effect. These thin places are completely eliminated by means of an acceleration algorithm specially developed by Rieter.

Fig. 1 FLEXIdraft inverter-controlled drafting system drive for fancy yarn formation.

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Ralf Maier

Technology Ring Spinning Machines Winterthur [email protected]

Preventing moiré effects  The formation of a moiré structure in the fabric, caused by a regular effect pattern, can be prevented completely by modifying the program if such a struc-ture is unwanted.

ReproducibilityVARIOspin effect patterns are 100% reproducible. This is also true for effect patterns which have been pro-grammed with the random-check generator. Following a package change the machine always restarts at the first programmed step of the effect pattern.

VARIOspin versions – depending on customers’ needs The VARIOspin option is offered in several versions, depending on machine model. The difference be-tween the versions of VARIOspin lies in the produc-tivity of the relevant fancy yarn system. The basic version of VARIOspin is already able to cover a wide range of fancy yarns. It is limited in terms of effect intensity, i.e. change in mass.

The most powerful version is technically capable of producing a 400% increase in mass, i.e. a total yarn mass of 500% (without twist modification). Machines equipped with this system are designated G �5 VARIO and K 45 VARIO.

All VARIOspin versions are delivered with user-friendly VARIOspinData operator software. VARIO-spin can also be combined with the Rieter Core Yarn System. VARIOspin and VARIOspinData make a huge repertoire of tools available for producing fancy yarns, with which a very wide range of fancy yarns can be covered. 10-20� •

Fig. 2 Programming effects with VARIOspinData Input of fancy yarn parameters Visualization of the fancy yarn Visualization of the yarn surface

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Rotor-spun yarns with fashion-able effects for “fancy denim” Jeans are always up-to-date. The effects change with the flow of fashion. It is impossible to imagine the denim sector without fancy yarn creation on the R 40 and R 923 rotor spinning machines. 

Generally speaking, the same effects can be pro-duced in rotor-spun yarns as in ring-spun or compact yarns. The theoretical principles already explained also apply to rotor-spun yarns. However, there is one limitation on rotor-spun yarns: short effects are not possible. Slub effects on rotor spinning machines are at least 11.� cm long.

Effect lengths in rotor-spun yarnsRotor diameters of �6 mm and more are used as a rule for spinning fancy yarns, since the effects are not vis-ible enough when smaller rotors are used. The shortest effect lengths always correspond at least to a rotor circumference. This is explained by the yarn formation theory of rotor spinning. Only when the ro-tor groove is filled with the necessary yarn mass is the yarn, i.e. the effect, drawn off. With a rotor diameter D of �6 mm the circumference is U = p × D = �.14 × �6 mm = 11� mm. This corresponds to the shortest pos-sible effect length.

Suitable spinning elementsThe shape and size of the rotor groove must be such that it can accommodate the fiber mass of the effect. The �6 XTC-BD rotor has therefore proved its suitabil-ity for producing coarse fancy yarns. In combination with the K4K draw-off nozzle (Fig. 2) it is suitable for yarns coarser than Ne 10; the KS or KS-NX nozzles can be used for finer yarns.

Fancy yarns for denim  Denim production is a typical application for fancy yarns. Large numbers of effects that are as thick as possible are necessary in the yarn for “fancy denim” effects to be clearly visible in the finished jeans fab-ric.

Slub yarns are the most familiar and frequently spun fancy yarns. Many Rieter customers work with in-creases in mass of �00-400% in the slubs.

A suitable approach in order to achieve especially distinct effects with the rotor spinning machine is to build up effects in stages (cascade effect). The thick-est lengths of yarn are accentuated more distinctly in the finished fabric. In a suitable yarn structure the visible peak of the slub then appears to be shorter than the total length of the effect.

A multi-count yarn is very similar to slub yarn, but due to the modified twist has somewhat higher yarn tenacity in the thin yarn zones. In contrast to slub yarn, the effects have a rather longer wavelength. They can even extend over several meters.

Multi-twist yarns feature no change in mass, only the twist is modified. This yarn is used in the denim segment primarily to produce color effects. Lengths of yarn with less twist take up more dye and ap-pear darker. Lengths with higher twist are lighter in color.

Any desired effects can be created on the R 40 ro-tor spinning machine: slub yarns, multi-count yarns, multi-twist yarns and combined multi-effect yarns.

Flexible use on the R 40If required, the R 40 rotor spinning machine is pre-pared with a VARIOspin fancy yarn interface. This universal interface has been developed in coopera-tion with specialist manufacturers (Amsler, Caipo, Pinter). All three manufacturers offer especially pro-ductive feed drives for large numbers of short ef-fects.

The yarn count of the base yarn in fancy yarn spin-ning is Ne � to Ne 40 (Nm 5 to Nm 68). The change in mass of the effect is set in practice at -20% to +400%. Twist modification varies between 50% and 150%.

Fig 2. The K4K draw-off nozzle is suitable for coarse fancy yarns up to Ne 10.

Fig 1. Effects in denim with multi-twist rotor-spun yarns.

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TECHNOLOGY

Especially pronounced effects can be achieved by reducing production speed to some extent, since a large increase in mass requires more time. In princi-ple, the draw-off speed for slub sections is the same as for the base yarn. However, the number of possi-ble effects per unit of time depends on the perform-ance of the feed drive. In some cases the delivery speed is reduced for short effects also featuring short spacing.

How are effects produced in rotor spinning?The motors used are inverter-controlled and can ro-tate faster or slower depending on the control. Yarn twist is influenced via the speed of delivery shaft (1). Yarn mass is changed via the speed of feed shaft (2) and more or fewer fibers are fed into the rotor (Fig. �).

Programming and simulating effectsUser-friendly software is available for designing fan-cy yarns. The programmed effects are then trans-ferred to the fancy yarn device on the machine by means of a memory stick. The three manufacturers have different concepts for preventing moiré effects in woven or knitted fabrics. The use of extensive pat-tern repeats or an offset function with a random-check generator is helpful in this case.

Simulations of yarn tables and fabrics on the compu-ter are possible when programming, so that the final fabric appearance with this slub yarn can already be assessed during yarn design.

Intelligent robot control on the R 40Piecings corresponding to the yarn diameter are also produced in the case of fancy yarns by the R 40 au-tomatic rotor spinning machine. The R 40 robot re-ceives information from the fancy yarn device by radio on which effect is being spun when the piecing proc-ess occurs. Piecing is then performed with the appro-priate fiber mass and take-off speed.

R 923 rotor spinning machine with integrated fancy yarn deviceRieter offers an integrated slub yarn device for the R 92� semi-automatic rotor spinning machine. This permits changes in mass of up to +�20%. Pro-gramming is also performed on a separate computer and data transfer via a memory stick. 10-204 •

Michael Werner

Head Technology Rotor Spinning [email protected]

Fig. 3 R 40 rotor spinning machine with fancy yarn device – de-livery shaft (1) and feed rollers (2) are inverter-controlled.

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OUR CUSTOMERS

The rapid rise of Santana Textiles started in 1995 with the commissioning of the first denim weav-ing mill in northeastern Brazil. At that time some 700 000 running meters of fabric were produced every month and sold to local garment manufactur-ers.

In the meantime Santana Textiles has increased its denim output more than ten-fold through continuous investment and currently manufactures 7.5 million running meters of fabric monthly in a total of 5 pro-duction facilities in Brazil and Argentina. This can be used to make up more than 70 million pairs of jeans annually!

Rotor-spun yarn and fashion, is that really possible?As everyone knows, fashion knows no boundaries, and this also applies absolutely to the denim-ware sector. Some years ago plain ring- and rotor-spun yarns were processed almost exclusively. This is def-initely now a thing of the past. The market has been transformed and demands “fashion denim”. Fan-

cy yarns are essential for this: slub, multi-count or multi-twist effects now give end products their un-mistakable characteristic attributes. Lifestyle prod-uct “fashion denim” is given the ultimate look in the finishing process, for example by special washing processes or sandblast treatment. And new finish-ing processes for denim are being added every year (Fig. 1).

Santana Textiles already adapted to these trends at an early stage and invested accordingly. That’s why the R 40 rotor spinning machines it has installed cannot be imagined without the fancy yarn devices. The machine concept of the R 40 enables fancy yarn devices from all leading manufacturers to be retrofit-ted easily. The R 40 can, of course, also be delivered ex works with the VARIOspin system.

Santana Textiles responds very quickly and flexibly to the constantly changing trends on the market and offers its customers innovative and stylish denim products at competitive prices (Fig. 2).

Cost-cutting with new technologySantana places its trust in shorter processes and maximum productivity in order to achieve further re-ductions in manufacturing costs in the spinning mill. All C 60 cards are therefore equipped with the RSB module. Santana exploits the potential of the 1.5 m-wide, high-performance card to the full, producing at up to 200 kg/hour. Meanwhile, the RSB autolev-eling technology on the card’s drawframe module ensures unsurpassed sliver quality from the first to

Fig. 1 “Fashion denim” is in great demand worldwide.

Santana Textiles – a leading South American denim manufacturer Jeans – the world’s most widely worn garment. It’s impossible to imag-ine life without them. A report on Santana Textiles – one of Brazil’s most successful denim manufacturers.

Fig. 2 With up to 500 spinning positions, the R 40 is the most productive rotor spinning machine; more than 800 machines are already in operation worldwide.

Fig. 3  C 60 card with RSB module for the direct process in rotor spinning.

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OUR CUSTOMERS

the last meter of sliver in the can. Only in this way can consistent yarn quality be ensured in the direct process (Fig. �). Costs are also saved in downstream processing. The large R 40 cross-wound packages up to �50 mm in diameter used in the weft result in higher efficiency.

The outstanding tenacity and elongation of ComfoRo® yarns from the R 40 and the invisible piecings pro-duced by AEROpiecing ensure superior running prop-erties in weaving operations and top quality in the end product.

Pursuit of growth and twin-track strategyAfter Santana had systematically expanded its po-sition in the denim segment over the preceding 15 years, the decision was taken in 2008 to venture into new market segments. In light of the steady growth in demand for high-grade rotor-spun yarns for knit-ting and weaving, the company therefore decided to enter this keenly contested segment. A further 11 R 40 rotor spinning machines with 500 spinning po-sitions and � robots each were brought into opera-tion for this purpose in 2009. In this new installation carded cotton is spun into high-quality ComfoRo® yarns in the Ne 24-�0 count range.

The next expansion move was made in 2010 with the commissioning of a complete compact spinning in-stallation with 16 K 45 ComforSpin® machines with 1 6�2 spindles each to produce fine combed Com4® yarns. Santana Textiles’ position is even more sta-ble as a result of this reorientation, and the company can balance fluctuations in demand more effectively. (Fig. 4)

Positive future outlook Brazil emerged relatively unscathed from the turbu-lence of the global financial crisis. A large domestic market with 190 million inhabitants, local cotton production of more than 1 million tonnes/year and stable energy supplies continue to make the country an attractive location for the textile industry.

The 2014 soccer World Cup due to be held in Brazil and the award of the 2016 summer Olympic Games to Rio de Janeiro will give domestic textile demand further momentum. Santana is already very well pre-pared for this upswing and is looking forward to the future with confidence. 10-205 •

Alexander Stampfer

Head Product ManagementSpinning Preparation Ingolstadt [email protected]

Fig. 4 Presentation of the ComfoRo® license to Santana Textiles. From left to right: Christian Gramer, Product Manager Rotor; Raimundo Delfino, President of Santana Textiles; Alexander Stampfer, Head Product Management Spinning Preparation, Claudio Mazzetto, Sales Mercosur.

Raimundo Delfino, President of Santana Tex-tiles, commented as follows on the occasion of the presentation of the ComfoRo® license in Ingolstadt:

“The advantages of a systems supplier already became evident during the planning phase. The spinning and economic efficiency calcula-tions provided by Rieter as well as the layouts assisted us ideally in configuring the installa-tion. In the denim segment we are counting fully on Rieter’s direct spinning process with C 60 cards and R 40 rotor spinning machines. Compact spinning is still a new technology for us. Rieter is the market leader in this field and has the best know-how. A clear reason for us also to set out on this new path together with Rieter. We are utilizing Rieter’s support in marketing our yarns with the ComfoRo® and Com4® brands. We are very satisfied with Rieter’s service.”

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The Turkish textile industry on course for successThe Turkish textile sector has a major impact on the European and North American textile trade. The textile industry’s enormous growth in recent years is reflected in impressive mill developments in southeastern Tur-key. Kipas, MEM Textile and Elit Iplik can be cited as representatives of this development trend.

Turkey was ranked eighth in Europe in terms of eco-nomic power in 1985. In recent years it has learned its lessons and brought its economy on course for success.

The textile and garment industryThe textile industry is Turkey’s largest industrial sec-tor and at the same time accounts for the majority of its exports. The fact that Turkey is the world’s sixth-largest cotton producer reinforces the strong posi-tion of the Turkish textile industry worldwide. The country is ranked 10th in yarn exports worldwide and 4th in exports of clothing. Its largest markets include Germany, the US, the UK, France, the Netherlands and the Russian Federation.

The centers of the textile industry are largely con-centrated in the cities of Istanbul and Denizli, and in the cities of Adana, Gaziantep, Kahramanmaras and Kayseri in the east (Fig. 1). A total of some 4 million people are employed in the textile sector.

Eastern Anatolia, the heart of the textile industrySoutheastern Turkey, centered on the city of Adana, has experienced rapid development (Fig. 2). A ma-jor textile industry has emerged in the land of cotton fields, specializing in the production of quality yarn and high-grade fabrics and end products fully meet-ing the standards required by prominent fashion houses in Europe and the US. An irrigation project in southeastern Anatolia featuring 22 dams and 19 hydroelectric projects is intended to double cotton production. Although increasing amounts of other fibers (such as viscose and polyester) are also being processed and cotton-growing has declined in recent years, cotton will remain a very important source of employment for the region in the long term.

Com4® – the reason for investments by Kipas,  MEM Textile and Elit Iplik These three companies have installed more than 100 000 spindles for compact spinning technol-ogy in the past three years alone. The Turkish tex-tile industry, which has been expanding steadily since the 1950s, is now Turkey’s main export sector. The market has also become tougher for Turkey with the emergence of growing competition from the Far East. The companies have therefore focused success-fully on quality rather than quantity for some years. Their investments in the compact yarn segment un-derscore this trend. Com4® yarns have much lower hairiness and higher tenacity and elongation com-pared with conventional ring-spun yarns. This re-sults in improved running behavior in downstream processing and ultimately in higher economic effi-ciency. Com4® yarns fulfill the high requirements of the fashion industry. The following brief portraits of the Kipas, MEM Tex-tile and Elit Iplik companies provide an interesting insight into the Turkish spinning market.

Fig. 1 Kayseri, one of the centers of the Turk-ish textile industry.

Fig. 2 Turkey’s largest mosque was built in Adana and opened in 1998.

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OUR CUSTOMERS

Kipas – many years of experience and quality Since starting business in the Province of Kahra-manmaras in 1984, the company now operates yarn manufacturing facilities with a surface area of 200 000 m2. By pursuing a policy of continuous modernization and expansion of production the com-pany has become one of the largest yarn manufactur-ers in Europe and the Near East. At Kipas 200 000 spinning positions produce ring-spun yarns in the Ne 5-150 range. In earlier years mainly cotton yarns were produced. Nowadays yarns are produced from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and acrylic fibers or their blends to customers’ requirements. Its latest investments in a new Rieter compact spinning instal-lation have enabled Kipas to strengthen and expand its position significantly among the world’s leading textile companies.

MEM Textile – an impressive success story The company’s production capacity amounted to 20 160 spindles in 1997, the year it was estab-lished. This was expanded continuously to 145 000 spindles by 2007. The company stands out for its innovation and product diversity. The spinning mill has continued to expand its position in recent years

with a capacity of 76 800 Com4® spindles. MEM Textile is therefore one of the largest producers of combed Com4® yarns. Its high-quality yarns have made MEM Textile an exclusive yarn supplier to man-ufacturers of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics worldwide.

Elit Iplik – a young, aspiring company The company was formed in 2007, and the spinning mill, with a capacity of �2 640 spindles, came into operation in October 2009. The K 45 ComforSpin® machines produce 15 tonnes of Com4® yarn per day. The compact yarns are intended for further process-ing into woven and knitted fabrics. The high stand-ards imposed by domestic and foreign customers are met by pursuing a company policy of continuous im-provement in quality, using the latest machine tech-nologies.

Rieter – partner for innovationsThe wide range of Rieter yarns meeting the high-est standards ensures high competitiveness in a dy-namic market. Fully developed technologies result in highly efficient yarn production in the ring and ro-tor spinning processes. Our customers can thus sys-

Fig. 3 K 45 compact spinning machine for fully compacted yarns.

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OUR CUSTOMERS

Jürgen Seuberling

Sales Engineer Turkey Winterthur [email protected]

tematically keep their production costs low. Ongoing further and new developments in machinery and continuous research into new yarns and technolo-gies support Rieter customers in the keenly contest-ed yarn market. Turkey and its textile industry in particular will con-tinue to gain in importance. Its ideal geograph-ic location – between Europe and Asia – and rising manufacturing costs in the Asian markets will speed up this development. The latest statistics for 2010 strongly underline this, showing Turkey now ranked 17th among the world’s largest economies. With growth of 11.7% in the first quarter of 2010, the Turkish economy was in second place worldwide, close behind China.

Fortunately, this upswing did not pass the textile in-dustry by! On the contrary. Rieter has also therefore experienced an unexpected and totally surprising boom in the Com4® sector and also in ring spinning in recent months. This confirms the trend toward production of higher-quality cotton yarns and blends featuring all conceivable combinations of fibers. Due

Fig. 5 The spinning mills of Kipas, MEM Textile and Elit Iplik are licensees of Rieter yarns.

to its innovative systems offering and the proverbial “Rieter quality”, Rieter has been able to benefit sig-nificantly from this trend. Rieter wishes to express its thanks for the confidence shown and for this suc-cessful partnership.

Detailed reference leaflets for Kipas, MEM Textile and Elit Iplik (Fig. 5) can be downloaded from the Internet at: http://www.rieter.com/en/textile/news-center/download-center/

More information on Rieter yarns and licensees can be found at: http://www.rieter.com/en/textile/short-staple-yarn/rieteryarns. 10-206 •

Fig. 4 A view of spinning preparation operations: C 60 cards and RSB-D 40 draw-frames in action.

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OUR CUSTOMERS

Linen – fiber with a difference Rieter is launching an economical method of processing flax as a new trend. Modern flax  technology and yarn processing on  the R 40 rotor spinning machine at the Orsha Linen Mill in Belarus.

The economical processing of flax using open-end spinning has become reality through the coopera-tion of four specialists. The technological concept was developed by Dr. Meh-di Azarschab at the Institute of Textile and Process Engineering in Denkendorf and trials have already been conducted with the Füssen Hemp Mills on Rieter R 1 and R 20 rotor spinning machines. Customer re-quirements and market expertise were contributed by the Tongor company, which represents Rieter in Belarus. Fiber preparation and spinning technology from crop to yarn was developed in close coopera-tion between Temafa and Rieter. A modern process is thus available to prepare a renewable raw material for attractive end products. Since Rieter has coordi-nated all activities for this flax processing installa-tion, customers benefit from an integrated solution from a single source.

Implementation in BelarusA suitable partner for the pilot project was found in the Orsha Linen Mill in Belarus. Following exhaustive spinning trials, we received an order at the begin-ning of 2008 to supply a complete OE spinning in-stallation with R 40 rotor spinning machines.

Most of the machines for breaking open the long flax stems into short fibers (cottonizing) were supplied by our partner Temafa in Bergisch Gladbach (Germany). Orsha Linen Mill is undoubtedly an outstanding refe-rence installation.

Orsha Linen MillThe company was established in 19�0 in order to utilize the domestic flax crop increasingly to ob-tain linen fibers. Belarus is one of the 5 large flax growers worldwide, and the mill in Orsha is current-ly Europe’s largest linen manufacturer with an out-put of more than � million running meters of linen fabric annually. Most of the approx. 1 000 different products are fabrics for clothing or technical appli-cations. A great future is forecast for linen as a do-mestic fiber. Orsha Linen Mill identified this trend at an early stage and has invested accordingly.

Extracting linen fibersThe process of extracting the fibers has no adverse ecological effects, since virtually no chemicals are used. These positive properties have resulted in a steady increase in demand, especially in the ladies’ and men’s outerwear segment. However, one disad-vantage to date has been the very low production speeds of the classical spinning method for long fi-bers on special ring spinning machines. Based on experience gained in the Füssen Hemp Mills, Rieter seized the opportunity to transfer modern, high-pro-duction short-staple technology to linen spinning.

In order to process flax tow (retted, opened flax stems) on a rotor spinning machine, short flax fibers of guaranteed purity, strength, fineness and length must be produced mechanically. The choice of raw material quality assumes particular importance here. Extensive separation into individual fibers is crucial for spinnability using the short-staple process.

Fig. 1 Harvesting flax with large-scale machinery.

Fig. 2  Jacquard fabric produced by the Orsha Linen Mill.

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The Rieter-Temafa conceptIn the cottonization process the flax tow is progres-sively relieved of shives (decortication of the stems) and dust, and refined in different opening and clean-ing stages (Temafa machines and Rieter’s UNIclean B 12, UNIflex B 60 and VISIONSHIELD) – without a cutting process. The compressed bales then produced are fed to the spinning preparation process. Reusable waste from the cottonizing, blowroom and carding op-erations is fed back into the process via a Rieter recy-cling unit. Secondary waste passes into a briquetting press.

Spinning preparationThe bales are then fed to the C 60 card via the UNI-floc A 11 and a blowroom line comprising the UNImix B 71 and the UNIflex B 60, including the necessary finishing. A UNIblend A 81 precision blender can also be inserted in the line for blended yarns. Based on the yarn counts to be spun out, the C 60 card is coupled to an RSB drawframe module in the direct process.

Producing 100% flax yarn on rotor spinning  machines  Flax tow has mainly been processed to date using the dry spinning process on ring spinning machines. Standard and specially structured yarns can now be produced with high efficiency and very high pro-ductivity on the R 40 rotor spinning machine from cottonized yarns produced using Rieter-Temafa tech-nology (Fig. �).

Arne Thielemann

Sales Manager Central and Eastern Europe/Central Asia Winterthur [email protected]

Yarn counts and spheres of applicationDepending on raw material quality, yarn counts of 200 tex (Nm 5) to 8� tex (Nm 12) can be spun from pure flax. Yarns up to �6 tex (Nm 28) can be spun in blends with other short fibers, such as cotton, vis-cose, polyester, etc. – depending on the blending ra-tio.

Rotor-spun linen yarns are characterized by the fol-lowing properties compared with classical dry-spun yarns produced from flax tow:

higher elongation lower hairinesslower shive and trash contentsignificantly better downstream processing behavior (weaving efficiency of up to 95%)lower manufacturing costs

Fabrics and end products have the following advan-tages:

better abrasion resistancehigher dye receptivitylower finishing costspleasanter wearing behaviorreduced tendency to crease

In summaryIn times of steadily rising oil prices, increasing scar-city of cotton and a continuously growing world pop-ulation a highly productive and economical spinning system with future potential for flax, a natural fiber, is available on the market in the shape of the new Rieter-Temafa flax technology. This technology will undoubtedly make its mark in the marketplace in fu-ture. 10-207 •

••••

•••••

Fig. 3 The R 40 rotor spinning machine at Orsha operates with an efficiency of more than 97%.

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PRODUCT NEWS

New RSB-D 45 drawframe for enhanced quality and flexibility A  frequency-controlled  main  drive,  the  unique  CLEANtube  device  for clean sliver coiling, even with soiled cotton, or rapid adjustment of sliv-er spacing in the can during a change of material – new features for flex-ible drawframe settings and high sliver quality.

With almost 5 000 machines sold worldwide, Rieter’s most successful drawframe generation to date, the SB- and RSB-D 40, is impressive for its outstanding sliver quality, user-friendliness and robust engineer-ing. The new SB- and RSB-D 45 machines (Fig. 1) are based on this successful concept and enhance cus-tomer benefits with further improvements.

Flexibility due to frequency-controlled main drive Spinning mills have to respond to the delivery re-quirements of their customers at ever shorter inter-vals. To date the drive discs have had to be exchanged when delivery speeds are modified for changes of material on the drawframe. On the RSB-D 45 and SB-D 45 (without autoleveling) changes in delivery

speed are made comfortably via the frequency-con-trolled main drive at the push of a button on the ma-chine display (Fig. 2).

This new drive solution saves time when setting the delivery speed as well as reducing storage expend-iture for drive discs. The productivity of the draw-frame can also be coordinated precisely with the needs of the following process stages. The well-con-ceived design of the converter cooling system en-sures the reliability of the drive even at high ambient temperatures.

Flexibility due to rapid optimization of sliver  spacing in the canOptimization of sliver coiling when changing the fi-ber material does not always receive the necessary attention. The spacing of the slivers in the can is an important parameter in addition to setting the coiler speed and the eccentricity of the can relative to the coiler. For example, sliver spacing “a” (Fig. �) must be adjusted on quality grounds when changing from a combed, compact cotton sliver to a bulky polyes-ter sliver.

On the SB-D 45 and RSB-D 45 the relevant change gear is located ergonomically – close to the coiler drive. This facilitates simple, rapid changes in can rotation speed and thus sliver spacing in the can, ensuring optimum use of can capacity and faultless sliver draw-off in downstream processing. The modi-fied transmission layout reduces the number of belts

Fig. 1 Further enhance-ment of quality and flexibility with the new SB- and RSB-D 45 drawframes in a friendly, bright design.

Fig. 2  Rapid setting of delivery speed on the machine display by means of a frequency-controlled main drive.

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PRODUCT NEWS

– a clear advantage over other manufacturers’ draw-frames.

CLEANtube – sliver coiling without accumulations of trash and short fibers The following effect can occur on the drawframe when cotton or its blends with manmade fibers are being processed: while cans are being filled, parti-cles of dirt and short cotton fibers accumulate in the sliver tube of the coiler. The drawframe stops when the can is filled to capacity, and this accumulation of material, also known in the industry as the “mouse”, comes to rest on the top layer of slivers. The larger the trash or short fiber content of the cotton, the larg-er the “mouse”.

Operating personnel are usually instructed to remove the “mouse” from the can manually. In the process the top layers of sliver can be displaced, thus ad-versely affecting sliver quality. A half or whole layer of slivers is often removed in the process, resulting in additional sliver waste of up to 20 meters of sliver per can, corresponding to some 0.6% sliver waste. This “mouse” also occurs during machine stoppages while the cans are being filled, e.g. in the event of a sliver break in the roller infeed, and cannot be re-moved manually.

If the “mouse” is left in or on the can, malfunctions in the subsequent process are inevitable. At draft-ing output of 1 100 m/min with a sliver weight of Ne 0.10 and a can capacity of 15 kg, this results in some 200 000 cans with corresponding potential for defects per year and drawframe. Lower production efficiency in the subsequent process due to more ends down and clearer cuts, as well as lower yarn quality, can be the consequence.

The new, optional CLEANtube device solves this problem completely (Fig. 4). CLEANtube is an in-telligent coiler control system which prevents trash and short fibers from accumulating in the sliver tube. CLEANtube saves up to �00 hours of personnel ef-fort expended on manual removal of the “mouse”, as well as up to approx. 0.6% of sliver waste, per year and drawframe. CLEANtube prevents up to 200 000 defects per year and drawframe and thus maintains high production efficiency in downstream processing as well as yarn quality. This is an option that pays off. 10-208 •

Jürgen Müller

Head Product Management Drawframe Ingolstadt [email protected]

Fig. 3 Rapid adjust-ment of sliver spacing “a” when the sliver volume is changed.

Fig. 4 Sliver coil with “mouse” – without CLEANtube device.

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PARTS

Upgrade package for autoleveler drawframes The “AC SERVOcombi” upgrade package for older generations of draw-frames ensures very high production rates through precise autoleveling and operating reliability. 

The “AC SERVOcombi” upgrade package consists of a state-of-the-art servo motor and a new control unit. An ideal combination representing the latest state of the art in AC servo motors.

The powerful “AC SERVOcombi” motor for auto-leveling achieves higher efficiency through its sus-tained, powerful torque throughout the entire speed range. Positioning is by means of a rotary transducer, which ensures a constant actual-value comparison. The servo drive therefore follows the preset autolev-eling profile precisely. Perfectly leveled drawframe slivers are the result.

The “AC SERVOcombi” motor offers further advan-tages:

very quiet running propertieshigh dynamicsvery homogeneous control behavior

•••

The “AC SERVOcombi” motor is an AC servo motor. Carbon brushes are eliminated, making this type of servo motor completely maintenance-free.

A further element contributing to reduced mainte-nance time is the electronic control of the servo gov-ernor, which replaces the mechanical motor brake used to date. The components of the “AC SERVOcom-bi” motor are designed so that overheating cannot occur in extreme environments.

The control unit for the “AC SERVOcombi” motorThe new servo controller supplied with the motor and the “AC SERVOcombi” motor are ideally coordi-nated. Signal processing is performed in the digital servo controller in real time. The measuring signals are therefore precisely coordinated with the set-points and this results in very accurate autoleveling.

Quality “Made by Rieter”The “AC SERVOcombi” motor is of the highest qual-ity, since each and every servomotor impresses with high manufacturing quality. The motors conform to Rieter’s high quality standards. Compliance with specifications is regularly verified so that our cus-tomers can depend on Rieter’s proverbial quality. The motor’s compact design and the pre-wired ser-vo controller on a baseplate facilitate user-friendly installation.

This well-conceived design ensures easy, rapid in-stallation. Customers benefit from a short instal-lation time and rapid return to production of the drawframe after conversion. It is worthwhile adjust-ing autoleveling quality to the current state of the art on older drawframe models. 10-209 •

Jörg Feigl

Project Manager Parts Ingolstadt [email protected]

Fig. 1, left: “AC SERVOcombi” motor.

Fig. 2, right: servo controller for the “AC SERVOcombi” motor.

The “AC SERVOcombi” upgrade package is available for the following autoleveler drawframes: RSB 851, RSB 951, RSB 1, RSB-D �0, RSB-D �0c, RSB-D �5, RSB-D �5c.

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RIETER INSIDE

Interesting information about spinning preparation Following the successful launch of RIKIPEDIA, new contents have now been added. Detailed information on spinning preparation is available on the Internet as of now. 

 RIKIPEDIA – that’s the name of the online reference work on short-staple spinning technology by Rieter. Rieter is using RIKIPEDIA to present specialist tex-tile know-how from the series of “The Rieter Manual of Spinning” volumes on the Internet in the style fa-miliar from Wikipedia.

Rieter already provided a brief overview of the new reference work in the previous issue of LINK. In the meantime new, interesting contents have been add-ed.

Spinning preparation in 3 partsThe newly added chapter covers the technical and technological aspects of yarn manufacture between the card and the ring spinning machine. The quality of intermediate and end products depends to a large extent on these processes.

The contents of this chapter are very important and are divided into � parts (Fig. 1):

Combing (including preparation)DrawframeRoving frame

We will provide you regularly with tips and informa-tion on using RIKIPEDIA:

Tip 1: fresh printouts A print-optimized preview has been produced espe-cially for fresh printouts of RIKIPEDIA contents. This print preview can be called up in the left-hand col-umn under “Tools” with the menu item “Print”. The contents of RIKIPEDIA can then by printed out clean-ly and without disturbing navigation elements.

Tip 2: keeping your web browser up-to-date Besides security-related improvements, the lat-est versions of the various web browsers also offer improvements in the presentation of contents. It is therefore advisable to update your web browser regularly in order to be able to view the contents of RIKIPEDIA as problem-free as possible. 10-210 •www.rieter.com/rikipedia

•••

Fig. 1 RIKIPEDIA – view of the home-page with spinning preparation.

Michel Gelin

Project Manager Marketing [email protected]

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EVENTS

Successful ITMA Asia +  CITME 2010 in Shanghai  After the six days of ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 the outcome of Rieter’s review of its attendance at this trade show is positive. In addition to the presentation of Rieter as a systems supplier, the new G 32 ring spinning machine in particular was a highlight for the many interested customers and other visitors. 

Rieter is satisfied with its attendance at the ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 trade show. Visits by high-rank-ing officials and politicians did credit to Rieter’s en-deavors to expand its position in China further with innovation, quality and technology. Rieter was also pleased to accept orders from customers who ex-pressed their appreciation in this way.

Rieter exhibited a new ring spinning machine. The G �2, which has been developed specifically for the Asian markets, is simple and low-maintenance, and produces quality yarn. Its automatic doffer meets au-tomation needs in China, where it is becoming in-creasingly difficult to find spinning mill personnel. The doffer, in common with many other components

of relevance for quality, is the same design as that on the successful G �5.

High-ranking visitorsRieter was especially pleased to welcome visits by the official Chinese delegation headed by Du Yu-Zhou, President of the CNTAC, by the board of direc-tors of Rieter Holding and by the Swiss ambassador in China, Blaise Godet. Rieter expends large sums on research and develop-ment. This enables innovative products to be man-ufactured and adapted to markets’ specific needs. This commitment applies to China and also to Swit-zerland as a manufacturing location, whose values Rieter represents globally. They are reflected in the Swiss Textile Machinery Association’s “FACTOR+” campaign, which Rieter actively supports. This cam-paign communicates the benefits which customers can expect of Swiss textile manufacturers in general and of Rieter in particular: innovation, technology, quality, longevity and a high standard of service fa-cilities.

Orders from a vigorous marketThe effort expended on a high level of customer and market focus is reaping its rewards. New projects were discussed and contracts concluded with customers from all over the world at the show. The interest shown in new products and also in integrated Rieter installa-tions was considerable.

Fig. 1 The G �2 ring spinning machine attracted considerable interest.

Fig. 2 Du Yu-Zhou, President of the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), formerly also Vice-Minister in the Ministry of Textiles (far left), in conversation with Peter Gnägi, Head of the Textile Systems Division (far right).

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EVENTS

Fig. 3 The Rieter team at the ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 trade show expresses its gratitude for the interest shown by customers.

Edda Walraf

Head Marketing [email protected]

The systems supplier reduces complexityRieter’s ability to offer customers all-inclusive solu-tions and thus reduce complexity is highly appreci-ated. In particular, the provision of technological expertise from the fiber to the finished garment and comparisons between the different spinning proc-esses, all of which Rieter supplies, assist customers in their investment decision-making. In addition to this, comprehensive documentary material on the technology of spinning is available in book form or free of charge on the Internet at www.rieter.com/rikipedia for training up-and-coming generations of textile specialists. All of this contributes to Rieter’s being held in high regard.

Success through qualityRieter’s quality products and services are held in high regard by yarn manufacturers all over the globe. Rieter’s attendance at ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 was a great success. Customers from all corners of the world who visited Rieter on its booth in Shanghai contributed to this. Rieter wishes expressly to thank them and the company’s trade show team. 10-211 •

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CAMPAIGN

STRENGTH PARTNERSHIP

www.factor-plus.ch

REACHING THE HIGHEST PEAKS –A TRUE JOINTVENTURE

The added value plus for you: Switzerland‘s textile machinery industry is a strong and reliable partner. Our companies devise customer-specific, realistic end-to-end solutions. They guarantee their customers’success by providing high quality standards and reliable service.

The added value plus for you: Switzerland’s textile machinery industry of-fers its customers realistic, value-preserving, end-to-end solutions based on state-of-the-art technology. Our companies’ proverbial quality and reliability guarantee their customers’ lasting success.

www.factor-plus.ch

SUCCESS IS A MATTER OF CONSISTENCYMATTERHORN 4.478 M, SWITZERLAND

QUALITY LASTING VALUE

The added value plus for you: Switzerland‘s textile machinery industry isan innovative, success-driven partner. By devising creative, costefficientand sustainable end-to-end solutions, our companies are constantly opening new markets for their customers and securing a key competitive advantage for them.

www.factor-plus.ch

BEIJING NATIONAL STADIUM DESIGNEDBY HERZOG & DE MEURON ARCHITECTS, SWITZERLAND

CREATIVITY SUCCESS

Rieter supports the “FACTOR+” campaign  “FACTOR+” is an image campaign launched by the Swiss textile machin-ery manufacturers’ industrial association to emphasize the added value (the “plus”) created for its customers.

The Swiss textile machinery manufacturers’ indus-trial association has launched a new, extensive ad-vertising campaign under the heading of “FACTOR+”. This is intended to enhance the image of member companies by emphasizing the innovative techno-logical achievements of the Swiss textile machinery industry as unique customer benefits. Added value for customersProducts of the Swiss textile machinery indus-try create lasting value – the decisive “FACTOR+”. Know-how, state-of-the-art technologies, systems in-tegration, resolute customer focus and comprehen-

sive service stand behind the names of the Swiss textile machinery manufacturers. With their purchase decision, customers acquire not only leading technological products and systems so-lutions, but also a reliable partnership, first-class service, training and consulting, based on compre-hensive knowledge and experience. This “plus” in terms of performance boosts the potential benefits of the products. This is expressed, for example, in high productivity, low energy consumption, low space re-quirements or high material utilization. Investments in products and solutions of the Swiss textile machinery industry preserve value, enhance competitiveness and thus offer a decisive “plus” in terms of security, reliability and confidence.

Rieter and “FACTOR+” The added value that is actively being publicized by the “FACTOR+” campaign has already been a basic pillar of Rieter’s success for many years.

Rieter has developed spinning installations in Swit-zerland since 1795. Many of the technologies and engineering solutions that are taken for granted nowadays were born in the creative minds of Rieter’s mechanical engineers. One of Rieter’s core compe-tencies is to develop innovative products, adapt them continuously to customers’ needs, and to mar-ket them worldwide in conjunction with various serv-ices. This is backed up by a global development and production network.

Customers’ confidence is based on the high quality of Rieter’s products and services. 10-212 •

Michel Gelin

Project Manager Marketing [email protected]

www.rieter.com

Rieter Machine Works Ltd.Klosterstrasse 20CH-8406 WinterthurT +41 52 208 7171F +41 52 208 8�[email protected]@rieter.comwww.rieter.com

Rieter India Private Ltd.Gat No. 768/2, Village Wing, Shindewadi-Bhor Road,Taluka Khandala, District SataraIN-Maharashtra 412 801T +91 2169 �04141F +91 2169 �04226www.rieterindia.com

Rieter Textile Systems (Shanghai) Ltd.12/F, New Town CentreNo. 8� Loushanguan RoadCN-Shanghai 200��6T +86 21 62�6 801�F +86 21 62�6 8012 www.rieterchina.com

The new RSB-D 45 autoleveler drawframe for enhanced quality and flexibility.