♦ LANGUEDOC ROUSSILLION REPORT ♦

M A R C H 2 0 1 5

LANGUEDOC ROUSSILLON ‘THE MELTING POT’

As one of the largest wine producing regions in the world, the Languedoc Roussillon doesn’t seem to get as much

recognition as it probably deserves, something that Jancis Robinson recognised a few years ago calling it ‘France’s

best kept secret’. The sheer variety on offer from the steep schist terraces in Collioure to the much flatter,

limestone and sandy soils in Mèze under the Picpoul de Pinet AOC, as well as the multitude of grape varieties that

are planted, render this region so heterogeneous. It is this diversity that makes visiting this region so interesting

and enjoyable, helped tremendously by the fact that FMV are lucky enough to have such a wide ranging portfolio.

I hope that some of the wines in this report will be of real interest to you, as I believe sincerely, that the wines on

offer are ‘Best in Show’ for their region and price point.

Due to its large size it can be difficult to sum up the vintage in a few words. However, this time, for the 2014

vintage, nearly all of our growers were under the same pressure of a very dry start to the year with drought issues

in the vineyard, followed by lots of rain from June onwards. Plenty of pre-selection in the vineyard and on the

sorting table was needed, in order to maintain quality levels. Quite a few growers recalled that, when the grapes

got to the press, there simply was not enough juice due to the drought conditions experienced earlier in the year.

Volumes are slightly down in places, but overall, quantities are good. 2014 is also remarkable for its quality

certainly where I tasted, due to the rigour of selection.

Fiona Hayes, Buyer - Languedoc Roussillon

LANGUEDOC

FÉLINES-JOURDAN, MÈZE

Claude Jourdan is in charge of this 100 hectare family estate, the

vines spread over various plots and parcels, one of which

surrounds the winery.

Harvest started on the 20th August in 2014, three weeks earlier

than in 2013 due to the abnormally cool weather during

flowering. Although Claude spoke about the fact that 2014 yields

were down, she was still very happy with the quality of the fruit

and the subsequent wines. As with most of the places visited in

the Languedoc, dry and warm conditions proved challenging, with

the Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot the most affected by heat stress.

June rain was welcome, but summer hail and rain storms in

September proved a little trickier to manage. Selection within the

vineyards was required until harvest was completed on the 18th

September. The 2014s demonstrate a tension and concentration

that stands out, but without the very high level of acidity that the

2013s displayed.

Picpoul de Pinet 2014

Lively aromas of grapefruit, pear and white flowers. Good level of concentration, balanced with a nervy acidity

and mineral backbone. Wonderful vibrancy. We still have stock of the 2013 until the 2014 bottling is shipped in

early April.

Chardonnay/Roussanne, VdP des Coteaux de Bessilles 2014

Claude thought that the Chardonnay was behaving rather ‘awkwardly’ just after fermentation, but having tasted

the blend in January, it was showing notes of peach, apricot and citrus on the nose with herbal and subtle spice

aromas. The attractive glycerol feel on the palate is lifted with a vibrant acidity. Well balanced.

Grenache/Syrah, VdP des Coteaux de Bessilles 2014

There was slightly more Grenache in the blend this year (55%). Claude believes that as the vines are gaining more

age, they are offering more interest to the blend and is therefore happy to increase the percentage. Pepper, spice

with juicy red plum and berry fruits. Firm tannins with grip are matched with concentration and good levels of

acidity.

Claude Jourdan

DOMAINE DE COUDOULET, CESSERAS

I sometimes think that you can tell a lot about the style of a wine you are

about to taste by meeting and getting to know the winemaker, a

statement pertinent to this domaine. Pierre-André Ournac is composed

and thoughtful in his approach, but once you start talking with him you

unravel an incredibly knowledgeable and engaging character. His wines

show initial restraint, but given a little time in the glass the layers of

flavour and character of the region do start to express themselves. These

wines should not be overlooked, just because they are incredibly good

value for money! It is not surprising that Monsieur Ournac won Decanter

magazine’s International Trophy in 2014 for ‘Winner of Red Rhône

Varietals over £15’ for his top wine Château Cesseras, La Livinère 2011.

Volumes were down by 20% overall in 2014 due to the ‘sécheresse’

(drought) and Viognier yields suffered the most with a 50% reduction. Harvest started at the end of August and

rain immediately followed, meaning that ‘tries’ through the vineyards when picking were vital. 2014s will be

bottled and available from April.

Pinot Gris, IGP d’Oc 2014

Plantation of Pinot Gris has risen here from 2.5 hectares in 2013 to 7.5 hectares in 2015, with yields of around 50

hectolitres/ hectare. Linear and mineral core with white pepper and white peach notes similar in style to Grüner

Veltliner aromatically. Nervy acidity, with no malolactic fermentation in order to preserve the vibrancy. Alcohol is

balanced at 13%. Currently available ex cellars only. Current UK stock 2013.

Pinot Gris, IGP d’Oc 2013

Chardonnay, VdP d’Oc 2014

Stone fruit and red apple with white floral aromatics. High level of acidity that is supported with pleasant

grapefruit pith bitterness on the palate. Mineral core and wonderful vivacity. Currently available ex cellars only.

Current UK stock 2013

Chardonnay, IGP d’Oc 2013

Viognier, IGP d’Oc 2014

1% less alcohol than usual and more mineral in style than 2013. Lychees, spice and a touch of pineapple. Silky

texture on the palate, medium weight and impressive concentration.

Pinot Noir, IGdP d’Oc 2014

No 2013 was shipped last year, but the 2014 will be bottled at the start of March. Bright red berry fruits with

subtle violet perfume. Juicy palate with silky tannins. A southern Pinot with 14% alcohol, but very well balanced

with a richness and purity allied to the concentration of fruit.

Petit Verdot, IGP d’Oc 2014

Parma violets, pepper, pencil shavings and a mixture of red and black berry fruits. There is ripeness to the palate

that is balanced with a mineral streak and grippy tannins. Available to ship excellars only.

Pierre-André Ournac

Syrah, IGP d’Oc 2014

Attractive purple colour with pepper, plums and mixed berry aromas. Juicy, intense fruit concentration with ripe,

firm tannins. Spicy, cherry palate with an uplift of acidity. A crowd pleaser.

Château Cesseras, Cuvée Olric, Minervois 2013

Mourvèdre (40%) Carignan (40% plus carbonic maceration) Syrah (20%). No 2012 produced. Savoury spice with

pepper, red cherry and blackcurrants supported by hints of garrigue. Juicy density of fruit on the palate balanced

with firm tannins and lively acidity.

Château Cesseras, La Livinière 2012

Syrah (70%) Carignan (10%) Grenache (10%) Mourvèdre(10%) 70% in barrel for 12 months. More black fruits and

savoury than Cuvée Olric with grippier and firmer tannins. Very concentrated and one that will benefit from some

time in bottle. Available to ship excellars only.

LES VIGNES OUBLIEES, ST PRIVAT

When we visited Jean-Baptiste at the end of 2013 he

drove us to his ‘new’ cellar. It is secluded sandstone

and schist ‘grotte’ that lacks a few luxuries such as

electricity, but with his generator he seems

wonderfully content and proud of this slightly larger

space (as well as the benefits that the lack of phone

signal brings) This year the cellar was bursting at the

seams thanks to the addition of a small parcel of land

(the first parcel which he personally owns). The cellar

simply adds to the charm and when I taste the wines

I’m excited because this project is still very much in

its infancy and it makes for a fascinating visit each

year to see the evolution taking place.

2014 was incredibly dry, with the vines under heat stress up until June when it rained and barely stopped

between early summer and December. On the 14th September it rained 200mm, a quarter of the annual rainfall in

just one day! Harvest was tricky and it was very important to make a strict selection within the vineyard and carry

out several ‘tries’, but Jean-Baptiste was happy with the resulting fruit and felt that unlike some of his neighbours

his plots had been reasonably well protected.

Vignes Oubliées, Terrasses du Larzac 2013

We will be shipping the 2013 in early March. It was bottled at the end of November. 2013 was a later harvest than

in 2012 or 2011. The alcohol is lower and the acidity is higher with a good level of concentration, but these

elements lend balance to the wine. In 2013 a lot of Grenache was lost to ‘coulure’, with yields down to 10hl/ha

rather than the average 40hl/ha, but thankfully the Syrah was of very good quality to compensate for this

shortfall. However, still a significant concern for a grower where his dominant varietal is Grenache.

Aged in demi-muids and barrel for 10 months. First vintage of elevage in the new cave. Cassis, black fruits,

cherries and garrigue notes with a pleasant violet perfume. Purity of fruit on the palate with layers of spice and

Jean-Baptiste Granier

© E Perrin

thyme on the palate. Vibrant acidity with a mineral core, grippy tannins and a savoury freshness on the finish. This

is a stunner - the best vintage I have tasted from the domaine. We are now shipping in magnums. We still have

availability of 2012 in UK stock.

Vignes Oubliées, Terrasses du Larzac 2012

MAS JULLIEN, JONQUIÈRES

Olivier Jullien is a talented winemaker and one of the

pioneers of the Terrasses du Larzac appellation. Known for

changing his vineyard parcels on an annual basis ever since

the domaine was created in 1985, which can only be deemed

as extreme perfectionism, Olivier has striven to understand

which varietals best express the real ‘terroir’ of the Terrasses

du Larzac. It has led to constant acquisition and re-sale of

certain vineyard parcels and has resulted in modifications to

the final blend over the years. 2013 was the first year that he

harvested and vinified the same vineyards two years in a

row, and 2014 followed suit. This can surely be a positive

sign that Olivier is finally content with the quality of all his

parcels and vines…..for the time being at least!

For 2014 Olivier recalled the same pressures as Jean-Baptiste Granier of Les Vignes Oubliées, but he suffered even

more reduced yields and he remarked that he had never seen so many grapes on the ground following rigorous

selection and ‘tries’ to eliminate any rotting grapes. Olivier believes that densities are only slightly lower than

what you would find in truly exceptional years. As usual there is a mixture of vintages being offered, depending

on the ageing regime at the domaine.

2012 Vintage

Early 2012 had seen a dry but very cold start to the year after a mild winter and it took a while for some vines to

‘wake up’. This lateness meant that flowering was delayed but a sunny spring with regular rainfall came to the

rescue. July was rather gloomy which delayed the vegetation on the vine but a very warm and sunny August

helped the vine catch up in terms of its conventional development. September was cooler and this led to a later

than usual harvest (started on 25th August and finished on 17th September) with oidium issues on some of the

varietals but overall volumes were good. Olivier is pleased with the 2012’s finding them aromatically attractive

with a generous balance between finesse and acidity and density of fruit. The only regret he has is that he wasn’t

rigorous enough with a cuvée of Mourvèdre and Carignan and didn’t drop enough fruit on the vine, which led to

its elimination from the Mas Jullien blend.

Pays d’Hérault Blanc 2012

A blend of Grenache Blanc, Carignan Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette. Fermentation and elevage in

demi-muids (6 years old). Ripe stone fruits, pineapple and grapefruit with aromatic expression of white blossom

and spice. Delicate glycerol mouthfeel with a pronounced saline character on the finish. Interesting juxtaposition

between the creamy glycerol and the linear salinity, very quaffable.

Olivier Jullien

Old Carignan vines

Les Etats d’Ame Rouge (Le Truand), Coteaux du Languedoc 2012

Not made every year, this was originally from parcels where Olivier felt that the fruit didn’t warrant going into the

Mas Jullien Rouge. As Olivier has worked to eliminate the ‘terroir’ and the ‘cepages’ that have proved less

exciting, even if of superior quality, it is now a lot trickier for him to make this cuvée. This year we will be

shipping some of the Le Truand. 100% whole bunch fermentation. Olivier compares this wine to a naughty boy ‘a

gothic cousin’. I think he is being a little unfair to this juicy, ripe wine that benefits from subtle garrigue notes and

refreshing acidity. Easy to drink, but by no means lacking in character.

Carlan, Terrasses du Larzac 2012

50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and the rest Syrah and Cinsault. Vines are planted 25km to the north at 400m

altitude. It is a 2 hectare plot acquired 10 years ago with large stony/rocky soils, limestone and schist. Olivier

describes the place as strong, powerful and sometimes hostile, but the wine on the other hand as a ‘permanent

caress’. Dark and brooding style with plums, cranberries and spice. Grippy, ripe tannins with lively acidity and an

attractive density of fruit.

Terrasses du Larzac Rouge 2012

Syrah and Carignan. Black olive, pepper and bramble fruits. Spice and garrigue add complexity on the palate. Well

integrated firm, fine grained tannins with juicy fruit density and a mineral backbone. Delicious.

We shipped the 2011 last year, but I think worth mentioning in this report as the wine is drinking beautifully with

a little extra time in bottle.

Terrasses du Larzac Rouge 2011

Arriving after such a great vintage as 2010, the 2011 was always destined to suffer by comparison. Olivier was

keen to stress that he was not planning to make a ‘petit frère’ but rather to work hard instead to create a wine

with its own personality and one that truly reflects the vintage.

On the palate the wine steers itself around four cardinal points, between the fruit, the spice, the mineral notes

and the oak. The presence and fluidity on the palate is outstanding as well as a length on the finish that is

remarkable. Olivier often says that to pull the cork in youth on a bottle of Mas Jullien Rouge is an indulgent

pleasure, but to wait a little before pulling the cork will allow the drinker to explore the wine’s real potential.

Decanting the wine before serving is recommended. Concentrated perfume of raspberries, Morello cherries and

sweet spice on the nose make this wine instantly attractive. The tannins are firm and pronounced and the acidity

creates a lift and freshness. There is a real density and concentration on the palate that performs wonderfully and

softens the firm, grippy tannins. The palate benefits from dark plums, sour cherries, black pepper and star anise.

Philippe de Bertier

DOMAINE MONTMARIN, MONTBLANC

Owned by 28th generation Philippe de Bertier, this beautiful property that

only uses estate fruit, offers great value for money. 76 of this 80 hectare

property are planted to vine, producing predominately white wines (80%).

The vineyards benefit from their proximity to the sea and the clay/chalky

and sandy soils. These factors as well as a tendency to pick relatively early

(potential alcohols of 10%), help preserve freshness in the wines. Their

labels were given a facelift in 2013 and achieved a more modern and

cleaner profile.

Harvest started in August, with the Sauvignon Blanc first to be picked,

shortly followed by their Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the

varieties most susceptible to heat stress and consequently volumes in the

area were down by 40%. Montmarin volumes overall were not down as drastically as this and although the

difficult vintage required a more rigorous selection in the vineyard, they were happy with the quality.

Domaine Montmarin Sauvignon, IGP Côtes de Thongue 2014

Lime and some tropical aromas. Slightly weightier on the palate than the 2012, refreshing and easy to drink style.

Bertier Sauvignon/Viognier IGP Côtes de Thongue 2014

Small percentage of Colombard (10%) Citrus and white stonefruit aromas. Touch less Sauvignon in the blend this

vintage which loses a little of the aromatics but a pleasant oily texture and medium length. Good value.

Domaine Montmarin Viognier, IGP Côtes de Thongue 2014

Blocked malo to maintain freshness. Slight glycerol texture with good level of acidity, peach and spice on palate.

Domaine Montmarin Chardonnay IGP Côtes de Thongue 2014

Ripe stone fruits, hints of melon with vibrant acidity and moderate concentration and length.

Bertier Rouge IGP Côtes de Thongue 2014

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot. Juicy ripe red berry fruits with supple ripe tannins and silky texture.

Easy drinking.

Domaine Montmarin Merlot IGP Côtes de Thongue 2014

Small percentage of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Red plums, redcurrants and subtle spice notes. Juicy

fruit with medium concentration with ripe tannins and refreshing acidity.

Rémy Pédreno

ROC D’ANGLADE, LANGLADE

A self-confessed Burgundy fanatic, Rémy Pédreno has

certainly made his mark since his first vintage in 1999.

Happy with his 9 hectare holding, he strives to make

restrained, ‘vin de garde’ wines. Rémy spoke briefly about

the 2014 vintage being difficult with yields down roughly

20% for the red and 50% less for his already small Rosé

production. Due to the drought experienced earlier in the

growing season when it came to pressing the grapes, there

just wasn’t enough juice in the grapes; the ‘tries’ carried out

in the vineyards once the rain started also contributed to the

shortfall.

In terms of changes, Rémy has bought 6 hectares near to the winery in order to bring his vineyards closer

together, and subsequently sold some land, as he has no plans to go over 10 hectares. His aim is to improve the

quality rather than quantity each year. The new lieu dit ‘Les Megères’, has been planted as they did in the past, by

initially planting the root stock directly into the soil, then three to six years later once the roots have established

themselves he grafts he scion onto the rootstock in situ. Rémy believes this method allows the true expression of

the ‘terroir’ to come through adding both complexity and minerality as well as contributing to the longevity of the

plant. New plantings included some Carignan Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris.

We have vintages back to 2008 in stock, see below and we are offering the 2013 on an ex cellars basis this year.

2013 Vintage

There was little rain during winter and it was relatively mild, apart from a cold spell in mid-January. Thanks to a

rainy March, by the time flowering was upon them, there was enough water in the soil for the vines. Spring was

fresh and humid causing some issues with mildew in May. Despite uneven fruit set the number of bunches was

generous, and June being cool and dry with flowering taking place quickly. Grenache suffered the most from

‘coulure’, but luckily the domaine only has a small number of Grenache vines. Storms at the end of July were

welcome (the vines hadn’t seen rain for over two months) and the summer was mild, dry and sunny, which

allowed Rémy a calm approach to the harvest. Patience and perseverance paid off due to the grapes not ripening

homogeneously and harvest started much later than usual on 26th August and finished 24th October. Despite the

initial set backs, 2013 was Rémy’s biggest ever harvest and he also remarked that the acidity was at a level that he

has never seen before, with reds at levels comparable to a white wine! Rémy decided to de-stem around 80% of

the grapes in 2013 with a gentle approach to the vinification to preserve the fruit’s ethereal nature.

Roc d’Anglade, Vin du Pays du Gard Rouge, 2013

60% Carignan, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Grenache 10% Syrah. 80% de-stemmed. The lowest pH he has ever had at

3.27. Bright red berry fruits with elements of garrigue and spice. The acidity is striking and incredibly vibrant, with

tannins that are very fine and well integrated on the finish. Subtle rose perfume, silky texture and a refreshing

acidity make this wine extremely attractive. One to lay down in the cellar.

Isabelle & Mattieu Champart

Roc d’Anglade, Vin du Pays du Gard Rouge 2012

50% Carignan, 20% Mourvèdre and rest Grenache and Syrah. Hints of clove, savoury spice and white pepper. Well

balanced with good minerality. There is a persistent concentration along with finesse and a silky texture. Only

12.3% alcohol

Roc d’Anglade, Vin du Pays du Gard Rouge 2011

A warmer vintage than 2012, especially during harvest. Dark, red plums, blackcurrant and hints of cassis. Feels a

little weightier on the palate with spice and thyme prominent. Tannins are more rounded and riper than the

2012, well structured. Concentrated with great freshness.

Roc d’Anglade, Vin du Pays du Gard Rouge 2010

Roc d’Anglade, Vin du Pays du Gard Rouge 2019

Roc d’Anglade, Vin du Pays du Gard Rouge 2008

MAS CHAMPART, SAINT CHINIAN

From the seclusion of their small domaine and the purity and complexity in

their wines, to Isabelle Champart’s delicious homemade food with an

abundance of Matthieu Champart’s foraged truffles, you can’t help but fall in

love with this domaine. 2014 was a little easier than 2013 for the Champarts

as their Grenache, although only relatively small proportion at the domaine,

yielded more favourably, (2013 saw their Grenache crop succumb to

‘coulure’, affecting yield by 50%). They were not under the same pressure

from September’s rainfall as in 2013, where a complete parcel of Clairette

was wiped out and a parcel of Syrah badly spoiled. The dry weather followed

by rain and increased humidity levels led to less Syrah and in Isabelle’s view

made the Carignan and Cinsault rather less interesting....but then again

Isabelle is never happy and is always ultra critical of her wines. The whites

were picked a little earlier than the 2013’s and those that I tasted from

barrel demonstrated a great freshness and energy about them with good

levels of concentration.

IGP Blanc 2014 and Cote d’Arbo, Saint Chinian 2014 will be available in September 2015.

2013 Vintage

A cool spring slowed down the growth of the vine, which never managed to catch up despite the warm summer

and they harvested the Syrah as late as 25th September. The slow maturity led to a good level of concentration,

balanced by acidity. Isabelle purchased 2 parcels of old Cinsault and Carignan vines (the Cinsault with an average

age of over 100 years old and the Carignan planted on a favourable chalk soil)

IGP Pays D’Oc Rouge 2013

Bottled in March, 60% Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Carignan. A little less Syrah than usual, the 2013 has an

attractive density to the wine that is balanced with high acidity levels. Raspberry, violets and pencil shaving

aromatics with sweet spice on the palate. Persistent with fine grained tannins.

Château Fontarèche Château Fontarèche

Côte d’Arbo, Saint Chinian Rouge 2013

40% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 15% Carignan/Cinsault, 20% Mourvèdre. Elevage in cement, chalky/clay soils with the

Syrah on a Northern exposure. 35-40hl/ha, 100% de-stemmed. Bottled end of August 2014. Violets and plum with

juicy, spicy character. Firm, gripping tannins with wonderful freshness.

Clos de la Simonette, Saint Chinian Rouge 2012

The 2012 harvest was a little later than usual, due to a very cold and long Winter which pushed back flowering.

There was plenty of rain throughout the year and Mourvèdre in particular needed a couple of ‘tries’ through the

vineyards. 65% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 15% Carignan. Mourvèdre is planted on old terraces of chalky/clay

soils, with the Grenache on flatter chalky soils. Elevage is in demi-muids, barriques and in cement tanks. 5% new

oak.

CHÂTEAU FONTARÈCHE, LEZIGNAN-CORBIÈRES

Winemaker and director of the estate, Vincent Dubernet is aiming to

sell less and less in bulk each year, so there should be more potential

over the next few years to grow volumes and reduce stock pressures

at our end. In terms of changes at Fontarèche, the new ‘chef de Cave’

Melanie Estival has replaced her husband in the role. She was

previously winemaker at a nearby Minervois estate.

The 2014 is stronger than the 2013 here, with volumes of the red

slightly up on 2013. Flowering had been tricky, with the whites

suffering the most from an early July hailstorm. Vincent describes the

2014s as having very good acidity and freshness with pHs of 3-3.10,

lower than 2013.

Fontarèche Blanc, IGP d’Oc 2014

60% Colombard, 40% Vermentino. Bright, purity of tropical fruits and citrus. Juicy palate with body and balance,

supported with a good level of acidity. Very good value.

Fontarèche Viognier, IGP d’Oc 2014

2 new hectares planted this year. Peach and stone fruits dominate the nose with some spice and citrus notes

adding more interest. Well balanced.

Château Fontarèche Corbières Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2014

60% Roussanne, 40% Grenache Blanc. The Roussanne vines are starting to get some age and therefore offer the

blend more character and complexity. Floral with white peach and grapefruit aromas. Very concentrated on the

palate with an attractive bitterness on the finish. Very good.

Château Fontarèche Corbières Rosé 2014

70% Picpoul Noir, 30% Grenache noir and Syrah. More volume available in 2014. Bright, grenadine, strawberries

and cherries that continue from nose to the palate. Refreshing acidity and medium concentration and juiciness on

the palate.

Fontarèche IGP de l’Aude Rouge 2014

Mainly Grenache, Carignan with some Alicante. Very drinkable and refreshing. Spice and bramble fruit character.

Juicy concentration on the palate with a good level of acidity and round, juicy tannins.

Château Fontarèche Corbières Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2014

40% Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre, no Grenache in 2014. Mourvèdre not added every vintage as a difficult

varietal here and the Carignan goes through carbonic maceration. 2014 has much more density than 2013, layers

of complexity with raspberry perfume, pepper, thyme and sage. Vibrant acidity and firm, grippy tannins.

ROUSSILLON

DOMAINE DE LA RECTORIE, BANYULS

This 30 hectare estate, planted on schist soil, covering numerous plots with

varying expositions is now run by Thierry Parcé and his son Jean-Emmanuel. The

range of dry and fortified wines are of exceptional quality, aided by their old vines,

steep terraces (highest at 450m), vinification practices and picking times (Rectorie

pick earlier than their neighbours to maintain freshness and purity). In the last

couple of years, investment in a pneumatic press, a move to larger barrels (400l as

well as keeping their 225l barriques) and the decision to use ‘remontage’ over

‘pigeage’ has contributed to more delicate wines, with less extraction for the reds.

The varietal plantings are all mixed in the vineyards and yields are very low at 20-

25hl/ha. This year they have made a new dry red that has only been bottled in

magnum format from vines planted in 1938; Barlande Rouge, which we will be

shipping.

L’Argile, Collioure Blanc 2014

Will be ready from April. 90% Grenache Gris, 10% Grenache Blanc. Fermented in barriques and aged for 8 months,

1/3 new oak. Batonnage is carried out and the wine remains on lees for 9 months. Ripeness of fruit and generous

glycerol mouthfeel, but with a salty character and refreshing acidity that lifts the finish.

Côté Mer, Collioure Rosé 2012

Fermentation and ageing as per the Argile Blanc. Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. They have moved to direct

pressing to get a lighter Rosé but one that they believe expresses the ‘terroir’ and enables a fresher more vibrant

style of Rosé. Raspberries, fresh almonds and citrus minerality. Refreshing with restrained fruit concentration.

Côté Mer, Collioure Rouge 2013

60% Syrah, rest Carignan and Grenache. Volume on the 2013 is low this vintage with the 2014 being available in

late Spring. The soil is deeper here than for Côté Montagne, with younger vines that are closer to the sea, picking

also occurs a week earlier. Very floral and perfumed, delicate sweet spice on the nose with a juicy purity of red

berry fruits on the palate. Mineral core with firm, well integrated tannins.

Côté Mer parcels

Côté Montagne, Collioure Rouge 2013

Same time spent in oak as the Côté Mer (1 year) but higher altitude and older vineyards (450m) further inland.

Soils are shallower and rockier and there is no Syrah in this blend. Carignan (60%),Grenache, Mourvèdre and

Counoise. Darker fruits of blackcurrant, cherry, plum and savoury spice. Herbal and garrigue notes add layers of

complexity with firm, grainy tannins and a vibrant acidity adding to the structure. A real expression of the ‘terroir’

and region come through in this cuvée.

Barlande, Collioure Rouge 2013 magnums

Lieu dit. Old vineyard from vines planted in 1938 at 350 metres. Mainly Carignan but some Grenache in the blend.

The slope doesn’t see too much direct sunlight, which keeps the purity of fruit and freshness in the wine.

Wonderful notes of thyme and rosemary with some liquorice and red cherry notes. Fine grained tannins with a

lively freshness that balances the concentrated body. Extraordinary length. Only 12 magnums shipped. More

availability for 2014 vintage.

Cuvée Parcé Frères, Banyuls 2013 50cl

Muté sur grains method (adding of 97% alcohol grape spirit onto fermenting berries before pressing) and same

terroir as Côté Mer. 90% Grenache noir, 10% Carignan. 9 months in tank, non-oxidative style. Cranberries, plums,

morello cherries, cloves and figs. Juicy with ripe but firm tannins. Well balanced. Perfect with an apple or fruit

tart.

Cuvée Léon Parcé, Banyuls 2012 50cl

Older vines, lower yields and grapes picked two weeks later than for the Parcé Frères, as well as ageing in large

oak. Wonderfully intense aromas of dried berries, coffee and caramel, as well as bramble fruits. Firm, grippy

tannins that provide the backbone to the lively acidity and full body. Wonderful length. Perfect with some dark

chocolate.

Gérard Gauby

DOMAINE GAUBY, CALCE

Situated just outside the small town of Calce, south of the River

Agly, you get a complete sense of isolation and can easily get

lost trying to find the property that is surrounded by vineyards,

shrubs, trees and rocky schist and limestone terrain. There are

plans to build a tasting room and dining area which will offer

lunches where you can pay a small amount of corkage to drink

some of their great wines, which I would recommend once built.

As elsewhere in the region Gérard said that 2014 was a difficult

vintage with lots of selection and sorting having to be done due

to the rain that started from the summer onwards. This aside

Gérard firmly believes that a good vigneron can make a ‘grand

vin’ every year and he is very pleased with the quality of the

fruit in the cellar. Picking happens relatively early here to obtain

freshness in the wines, staring harvest on 7th August and

finishing on the 3rd October.

The family are aiming at reducing the elevage, with the wines spending less time in oak in order to capture the

fruit, minerality and freshness, and to make the wines more approachable in youth. The earlier picking times

carried out for a number of years have enabled them to make a more floral style and reduce the alcohol levels.

The 2014/13 releases are available ex cellars and UK stock will be shipped in September. The current vintages in

stock are shown below.

Calcinaires Blanc, Vins de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2014

Macabeo, Muscat, Chardonnay and Vermentino. Lemon and grapefruit notes are balanced with a floral orange

blossom perfume on the nose. There is an attractive glycerol mouth feel with a zesty acidity and mineral core.

Calcinaires Blanc, Vins de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2012

Calcinaires Rouge, Vins de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2014

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan. Less and less Mourvèdre going into the blend. Violet, spice, red and black

berry with subtle garrique and black olive notes. Silky texture, lively acidity with firm tannins.

*Note that this wine in 2014 is no longer Côtes du Roussillon Villages

Calcinaires Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2012

2013 Vintage

2013 was a later harvest than usual starting on 22nd August and finishing on the 11th October. The harvest of

Grenache was very small indeed as it suffered from ‘coulure’ thanks to plenty of rain in spring and during

flowering. The Indian summer saved the vintage and the wines have a beautiful restraint with plenty of acidity

and freshness.

Vieilles Vignes Blanc, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2013

100 year old vines of Grenache Gris, Macabeo & Grenache Blanc (Pre-phylloxera vines). Ripe stonefruits, even

tropical, are set off by a refreshing citrus aroma. Saline quality and mineral core. Nervy acidity.

Vieilles Vigne Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2013

Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and a very small amount of Grenache. 2013 was a great vintage for Syrah, but the

Grenache suffered a lot from ‘coulure’. Cassis, dark plum, pepper and garrigue notes. Cherry perfume and a purity

of fruit that comes through on the palate with a mineral core, vibrant acidity and firm, fine grained tannins.

Concentrated and long.

Vieilles Vigne Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2012

Coume Gineste Blanc, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2012

50% Grenache Blanc, 50% Grenache Gris. White peach and white floral notes that are supported with citrus and

pineapple. Acidity is very impressive and vibrant. Stony minerality that persists on the finish. Attractive glycerol

mouth feel.

Coume Gineste Rouge, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2011

Muntada, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2013

This is the star for me in 2013. Grenache (from their oldest vines) and Carignan (120 year old vines) and Syrah.

The soil is a mixture of marne, schist and chalk. Most is kept in cement, but a small amount spends time in

‘foudre’. Bramble fruits with floral notes, pepper and garrigue adding layers of complexity. The palate is

dominated by juicy red fruits, cloves and spice, with freshness from the generous acidity and firm, fine grained

tannins that contribute to a refreshing and savoury finish.

Muntada, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2012

La Foun, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2013

Carignan. Marne and chalky soils. This wine always has the lowest pH and needs longer to come into its own with

yields of around 22hl/hectare. The vines are over 120 years old (a small parcel is from Pre-Phylloxera vines)

floral and vibrant with red berries, violets and spice knitted with rosemary and liquorice. Nervy acidity with very

grippy tannins but there is a feminine restraint to this wine.

La Foun, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2011

La Jasse, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2013

Mourvèdre, with only 12.5% alcohol. Average age of vines is 15 years old and they are planted on schist with a

North-Eastern exposure. Seductive nose of red and black berry fruits, plum, black cherries with hints of garrigue.

Juicy, fine tannins. Juicy fruits and intensity on the palate.

La Roque Blanc, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 2011

La Roque Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2011

Le Soula

DOMAINE LE SOULA, PRUGNANES

Unfortunately I didn’t get to visit Le Soula this year as

winemaker Gérald was in Asia. He did email me with

his thoughts on the 2014 vintage however which may

prove useful: ‘2014 has been the most difficult

vintage I have had to deal with. There has been a lot

of rain from March to mid- August. So it was a lot of

work in the vineyards with a low crop. On the

contrary, in the winery, the work has never been so

easy. The fermentations went very well. I am very

happy with the wines. The alcohol level is very low:

10,5°C to 12,5 °C which I am very happy with

because the phenolic ripeness was good’

Trigone Blanc L14

Trigone Blanc L14 magnum

Trigone Rouge L14

Trigone Rouge L14 magnums

Please note as the wine contains more than 15% of more than two vintages this wine is now labelled as a Vin de

France, rather than Cotes Catalanes. Bottling is taking place in April

Maceration de Soula L13

Maximum of 600 bottles available.

Le Soula Blanc, VdP des Côtes Catalanes 2009

Le Soula Blanc, VdP des Côtes Catalanes 2009 Magnums

A warm vintage and slightly more oak than is being used from 2010 vintage onwards, the extra time in bottle has

certainly helped iron out any imperfections. Ripe stonefruits and touch of pineapple and mango. Spice on the

palate. Good level of freshness and balance.

Le Soula Rouge, VdP des Côtes Catalanes 2010

Bright cherry fruit, restrained ripeness with underlying garrigue and minerality. Density on the core but with an

uplift of spice.

LES VIGNERONS DE MAURY CO-OPERATIVE This is a unique tasting and certainly not for the faint hearted, with a new record of 57 wines tasted from cask on

this visit. For those who have never tasted and do not know the history of these VDN’s, I will explain briefly. The

wine is kept ageing in the roof space of the Co-op in over 100 year old demi-muids, most have needed repair due

to leakages at some stage. Each cask has its own number and individual casks are selected every year, depending

on their level of complexity at the time of tasting. The chosen casks have 1/3 of the wine drawn off and are then

topped up with a mature single vintage and left for the mother, as with vinegar, to ‘educate’ the new addition.

From this solera system the mother wine is said to date back to the 1928.

This year we are pleased to offer some casks that have a white grape base, which will bear the same label as usual

but will be distinguishable by their cask number. These chosen casks were made up of Grenache Blanc and

Macabeo, all displaying a wonderful complexity on the nose and palate. Some casks that we tasted had Muscat

added, but I found these a bit too overtly grapey and they lacked the density and depth that we come to expect

from these unique rancio style Maurys.

White grape base selected cask no.s:

768, 765, 762, 759, 755 and 753

Grenache Noir dominated selected cask no.s:

931, 932, 933, 917, 921, 379, 835 and 845

We will be shipping casks 932 and 933 early 2015. All other tasting notes are available on request. All remaining

casks are available ex cellars

Maury Solera Cask 932 50cl

Raisins, candied peel and honey. Piercing vibrancy with salted caramel on the finish. Exciting, this cask really

stands out.

Maury Solera Cask 933 50cl

Coffee, dark chocolate notes with hazelnuts and figs apparent on the nose and palate. Tannins are more evident

from this bottling, but well balanced, with great density.

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