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INSIDE THIS ISSUE

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LivingLivingi n t e r n a t i o n a Li n t e r n a t i o n a L

The Most Liveable City in Vietnam From $1,100 a Month

A “Hidden Gem” in the Mediterranean

Living Large Around the World Rent-Free

A Tale of Two Brazils

Volunteering and Adventure in Laos

July 2016 vol.3 no.5

AustrAliAn Edition

Globetrotter

travel

expat stories

upcominG events

investment

classifieds

JULY 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 1

ContentsJULY 2016

InternatIonal lIvIng®

International Living (ISSN 0277-2442), © Copyright 2016 by International Living Publishing Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Protected by copyright laws of the United States and international treaties. This magazine may only be used pursuant to the subscription agreement and any reproduction, copying or redistribution (electronic or otherwise, including on the world wide web), in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Waterford, Ireland. International Living Australia is published monthly. Subscriptions: In Australia AUS$49 for one year, in New Zealand NZ$49 for one year. How to contact us: Customer service: To place a subscription order, renew a subscription, pay a maintenance fee, change an address, follow up on the status of an order, or enquire about a missed issue, etc, email cs@ilaustralia.com or call 1300 559 359 from within Australia or 0061 3 9037 8333 from overseas.Editorial Office: Editors, International Living Australia, International Living Publishing Ltd, fax (03) 9558 2219. For our writers’ guidelines, see http://ilaustralia.com/international-living-australia-is-looking-for-writers. International Living is happy to receive manuscripts on speculation, but the publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts received for review. All editorial requests will be reviewed and considered when we plan our issues. Not all requests, however, can be answered personally due to the volume of inquiries we receive. To submit an idea or article contact Managing Editor, Barbara Ross, email: editorau@internationalliving.com.Media enquiries: For all press and media enquiries and to discuss syndication, contact Associate Editor, Carol Barron, email: CBarron@internationalLiving.com

From the Editor 2 Get the romance of Europe for a lot less than you think

International Dates 3 Mud, kites and a family of giants

Savvy Traveller 5 Gamboa: Rainforest retreat in the shadow of Panama City

Lifestyle 6 River cruises, mountain views and $230 rent a month in Chiang Rai, Thailand

Renting 8 The insider’s guide to renting in the “Pearl of Asia”

Living the Dream 10 Genteel living in Europe’s wine regions

Exploration 12 A “hidden gem” in the Mediterranean: Retire to affordable Malta

Fund Your Life 16 Living large around the world rent-free

Fund Your Life 17 Housesitting takes care of our housing costs

Cover Story 18 The most liveable city in Vietnam from $1,100 a month

Market Watch 22 A tale of two Brazils—Why it’s the best of times for the northeast coast

Investment 24 Consumer jewellery: The gold market no one’s talking about

Investment 25 Poland’s entrepreneurship—The envy of all Europe

Collectibles 26 Kids play, grown-up profit: The booming market in collectible toys

Income Overseas 28 Combining passion and business in the tropics

Income Overseas 29 Volunteering and a simple life in Laos

Travel 30 Summer in Helsinki: Finland’s cultured capital

Travel 31 The secrets of South Africa’s Cape Peninsula

Classifieds 32 Opportunities from around the world

Calendar of Events 33 The secrets to a happy life in Costa Rica

Global Property Notes 34 Find your own writer’s retreat around the world

The Last Word 36 Reclaiming my freedom with a roving retirement

2 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

JULY 2016, Volume 3, Number 5 ILAustralia.com

Founding Publisher William BonnerPublisher Jackie Flynn Editorial Director Eoin Bassett Managing Editor Barbara Ross Copy Editor Janet NistedPhoto Editor Hugo GhiaraAdvertising Helen Daly email: advertising@internationalliving.com

Contributing Editors Linda Card, Wendy DeChambeau, Barbara Diggs, Keith Hockton, Suzan Haskins, Bonnie Hayman, Jason Holland, Wendy Justice, Steven King, Ann Kuffner, Steve LePoidevin, Ronan McMahon, Jackie Minchillo, Don Murray, Conor William O’Brien, Glynna Prentice, Dan Prescher, Kirsten Raccuia, Jessica Ramesch, Edd Staton, Jim Santos, Greg Seymour

Get The Romance of Europe FOR A LOT LESS THAN YOU THINK

urope may be the second-smallest continent by land mass, but it’s extravagantly diverse in geography, climate, language and culture. From the flamenco-dancing south of spain to rembrandt’s tulip-filled coast, it’s rich with opportunity…for gracious travel…comfortable

living…even for good-value investing. It’s one region of the world readers often assume has been discovered…

and rendered too expensive. It’s not an unreasonable assumption to make. but that’s not the europe we introduce you to this month. In our europe you’ll find a treasure trove of good-value communities, all tucked away where nobody looks.

take expats benjamin and nadine, they moved to the historic coastal town of riposto in sicily in 2012. they say, “our monthly living expenses are roughly half of what they were back home. taking into account our lifestyle choices—diet, walking, using trains, buying local and only what’s in season—we were able to reduce our costs while raising our quality of life.” there is no racing around in this small Italian town, life moves at a slower pace. and that’s just how the couple like it. check out their full story on page 10.

France is the epitome of romantic, sophisticated europe. home to chateau-dotted hills and lush landscapes. expats stuart and elizabeth byrom have found their slice or paradise in a secret corner of the country known for its wine. “It’s great to live where world-class wines are produced. plus the weather is great. We maybe have five or 10 days in the 30s c in summer and five or 10 days in the single digits in winter,” says elizabeth. Find out exactly where they live on page 10.

you don’t have to go to France to see the legacy of French architects. closer to home in the most liveable city in Vietnam you’ll find pastel-pink churches, fresh morning baguettes and riverfront cafés. our Vietnam correspondent, Wendy Justice, reveals all about this city on page 18, a place you can live well on $1,100 a month close to near-deserted beaches that stretch for 30 kilometres along the south china sea.

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JULY 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 3

INTERNATIONAL DATES

Mud, Kites and a Family of Giants

Most people try to avoid getting covered with mud. That social norm goes out the window each July in Boryeong,

South Korea, when the Boryeong Mud Festival returns to town. The local mud is said to have special healing qualities. So in the spirit of healing, locals have devised a range of activities for indulging in the local mud, from mud wrestling to the Mr. Mud contest. There’s even a special kids’ area where younger mud enthusiasts can wallow in peace. The festival has taken on an international air in recent years, attracting top-quality pop and hip-hop musicians to entertain the millions of mud worshippers. A fun (if messy) time is sure to await you.

While Korea has mud, Bali has wind. And kites to be more precise. The Bali Kite Festival is a series of kiting events that take place each year between July and August. What started as a seasonal festival thanking the heavens for abundant crops and harvests has become a competitive ground for teams to participate and win prize money. A ‘new creation’ kite competition is one of the main attractions with many designs that include three-dimensional figures and unusual depictions, from Hindu gods, cars and motorbikes, to mascots and brand sponsors. A gamelan orchestra accompanies each troupe, adding to the spirit of the festival and the drama of the take-off and landing sequences.

Giants, not kites, are the main focus in the French city of Douai starting July 10. This is when the three-day Festival of Giants, a tradition that dates from the late 1400s, kicks off. According to legend, the heroic actions of a local lord, who saved Douai from Norman occupation, inspired the event. During the festival, a family of five wicker giants is paraded through the city. Monsieur Gayant, the eight-and-a-half metre tall, armour-clad father of the family, is said to have been inspired by the lord. Accompanying him are his six-metre-tall wife, Marie Cagenon, and their diminutive, two-metre-tall children. Beer, wine and street food also abound, making for a fantastic festive atmosphere. A great excuse to enjoy the French sun.

Medellín, Colombia, enjoys a year-round spring climate that is perfect for growing flowers. In 1957 the city therefore decided to launch a festival to celebrate the local flower industry. From these beginnings sprung the annual Feria de las Flores (festival of flowers) which kicks off this year on July 29 and lasts for a full week. It culminates in the parade of the silleteros, the saddle-wearers. These are farmers from Medellín’s flower-growing families, who arrange up to 25 varieties of flowers into wooden saddles that can weigh over 68 kilos. The saddles are then slung around their shoulders to be paraded through the city.

The waters off Mexico’s Isla Mujeres are clear, turquoise Caribbean and home

By Conor William O’Brien

Notes from an Offbeat World…

Trinidad is an island of pristine beaches…andtraditions dating back centuries.

the crowds, adding whimsy to an already exuberant scene. Their identities were hidden under hats, masks and veils, giving them an aura of mystery.

It’s a tradition that traces back to when enslaved Africans were brought to the Caribbean. The name moko jumbie comes from the Bantu languages of West and Central Africa. Moko means “healer” and jumbie, a spirit. These towering, colourfully dressed characters serve the community by driving out evil spirits.

The moko jumbie made a resurgence in the Caribbean in the 1950s. In Trinidad, they now form part of the vibrant carnival scene, striding through the streets of the capital, Port of Spain. Here you can see them sway to Trinidad’s traditional soca music and the rhythm of a beating steel pan. Some even have the audacity to dance bare-faced these days—less concerned with evil spirits than with just having a great time. n

A s a global nomad, I’m willing to try most things. But even I was a bit fearful when it was suggested I try

balancing three metres above ground on two bits of 2x4.

Moko jumbies, the Caribbean’s stilt-walking dancers, and I first crossed paths during Carnival, when I lived in Trinidad. Clad in the brilliant hues of tropical birds, they swayed over

Moko Jumbie Magic in the Caribbean By Apple Gidley

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to a variety of sea life. And July heralds the return of one of these waters’ largest denizens, the whale shark. So it’s the perfect time of year to host the annual Whale Shark Festival, which lasts from July 18 to 24. Swimming and snorkelling tours with these

gentle giants can be booked from $175. Sport fishing and scuba diving trips in the area can also be arranged.

“Celebrating the end of a plague outbreak, Festa del Redentore (The Redeemer’s Feast) is held in Venice, Italy on July 16 and 17. This festival date back to 1577 and today its religious and cultural origins have evolved into a

unique event that features the celebration of Holy Mass, fireworks, boat parades and Venetian-style dinners complete with pyrotechnic shows. n

“Millions of mud-

worshippers descend on

the city.”

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Following an announcement by national flag carrier Cambodia Angkor Air the first international scheduled flights began operating from Sihanoukville International Airport in June due to growing demand from the tourist market.

The airport already caters to chartered international flights. However, the new regular service between Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam and Sihanoukville is the first to be open to passengers wishing to fly to the booming tourism hotspot. Five flights are scheduled each week.

The airport was originally built in the 1960s but was recently renovated with a complete runway extension. A popular domestic route started in 2011 between Sihanoukville and Siem Reap with additional routes also launching to include Phnom Penh since 2013.

A number of respected regional airlines such as SilkAir and Dragonair operate international charter flights from Singapore and Hong Kong, respectively. Meanwhile the domestic market, serviced largely by Cambodia Angkor Air, grew 118 % in 2015 according to the airport operator.

GLOBETROTTERNews & Notes from Around the World

On the Cover This Month…

V ietnam is changing fast, and nowhere more so than Da Nang on the central coast. Stroll along the river and you will find gleaming new hotels, apartments and restaurants.

Spectacular new bridges span the Han river. China Beach—while booming with new developments—has remained quiet and it’s easy to find a deserted spot here.

The cost of living is low and you can easily find a rental for as little as $460. Even with a small pension, you can live comfortably here. Many expats live five minutes from the beach and still manage to live well on less than $1,300 a month.

Go to page 18 to find out more about the most liveable city in Vietnam. n

While the beaches are the main draw, Da Nang is dotted with beautiful French Colonial buildings like Con Ga Church (pictured on the cover).

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Thailand’s Monster Catfish

Conjure up images of Thailand and you probably think of white-sand beaches and golden temples. But head into the countryside surrounding the northern city of Chiang Mai and you will find lakes stocked with the Mekong giant catfish waiting for your line and bait.

The largest catch recorded in Thailand in the wild weighed in at 293 kilos. You’re not likely to land such a monster during a leisurely half-day or full-day fishing trip at one of the nearby well-stocked lakes. But it’s common to hook specimens of 18 or 22 kilos.

Thailand is the only country to allow fishing from private stocks of Mekong giant catfish. Half-day and full-day onshore fishing excursions cost $60 to $74. Or you can choose from a variety of fishing-boat packages that range from $130 to $400. See: Biggame-fishingthailand.com.

There seems to be two main ways people buy carpets in Morocco.

The first is to carefully mull. Will the colour clash with the furnishings in the living room? Will it get too much wear in the hall? The second is to have the smiling vendor throw half a dozen on the floor, take off your shoes and squish your toes in the pile to see which feels good.

Every carpet tells a story—quite literally, although you may not be able to decipher its meaning. Each tribe has its own particular repertoire of imagery that differs by village and region, but there is no such thing as a fixed pattern or design. Every weave and weft is learned at the feet of a mother and grandmother—and a carpet weaver is always a woman.

The essence of a carpet is the story of the weaver, the rhythm of her daily life. Her trials and tribulations, her small joys and larger happiness are woven into her carpet, as a painter puts his emotions on canvas by the subtlety of his brush.

Buying a carpet is a serious business, a special moment to be savoured, accompanied by mint tea sweetened with cardiac-arrest levels of sugar.

Buying a Moroccan Carpet A Natural Light Show

Brazil’s colourful carnivals, white-sand beaches and world-famous statue of Christ the Redeemer may be its best-known attractions. But if you’re lucky enough to be travelling through the state of Goiás later this year, don’t miss out on one of the country’s lesser-known spectacles: a dazzling natural light show.

Emas National Park is a vast expanse of verdant grassland dotted with huge termite mounds—lots of them. Every September and October these mounds come alive with millions of winged termites, princes and princesses setting off to start a colony of their own. But before they do, they must survive a hidden peril on their own doorstep.

As the sun goes down, the termite mounds across the plain light up with vivid green flashes. These deadly beacons stem from the heads of headlight beetle larvae, which burrow into the mound and use their flashing lights to entice curious termites within reach of their snapping jaws. Not good for the termites. But certainly good for you if you want to appreciate a landscape lit up with an otherworldly green glow beneath an endless, unblotted starscape. See: Focustours.com.

Cambodia Airport Expands

JULY 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 5

H ome to stunning coastlines, golden beaches and one of the best climates in the U.K., Cornwall, on England’s southwest coast, has a lot to recommend it to travellers.

But among the region’s more offbeat charms is a mysterious garden, lost for decades, that only recently gave up its secrets.

The Lost Gardens of Heligan were once owned by the local Tremayne family. Over the centuries, the Tremaynes built one of the most exquisite gardens in Europe here, only for it to be abandoned during World War I. The garden, lost in

the undergrowth, was rediscovered in the 1990s. The 200-acre restoration project is now Europe’s largest garden.

You can spend hours seeing everything Heligan has to offer. Winding Victorian paths lead you through exquisite subtropical exhibits that stand shoulder-to-shoulder (or trunk-to-trunk) with ancient British woodland. Be sure to see the Mud Maid (a giant sleeping woman covered in fine greenery) and the Giant’s Head (a huge, grass-covered head made of rock, with piercing blue eyes).

Gamboa: Rainforest Retreat in the Shadow of Panama City

The Savvy Traveller’s Corner

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“A huge head with piercing blue eyes.”

I n central Panama, 48 kilometres west of the capital, at an abrupt crook in the Río chagres where it slips into Lago Gatún, is the small town of Gamboa. Originally designed to

house canal zone personnel and their families, today Gamboa is a town of natural beauty and understated charm. Although only a half-hour from Panama city, Gamboa has an atmosphere of remoteness and tranquillity. Here you can wander through lush rainforest, surrounded by a menagerie of exotic animals.

There’s only one way to drive into town—over the chagres, on a single-lane bridge of wood and iron. Green is the first thing you’ll notice. And wildlife. Gamboa is a world-class bird-watching destination and a popular spot for hiking. You can spot antbirds, tanagers, forest falcons, sirystes, trogons, motmots, toucanets and, if you’re very lucky, the harpy eagle. The park also hosts sloths, coatis, anteaters and agoutis.

Monkeys are hard to miss, particularly if you take a speedboat to Monkey Island. Don’t be surprised if they jump right on your boat, or even on your shoulders, especially if you have food. Ancón Expeditions runs terrific boat tours of Gamboa, including pick-up and drop-off at your hotel in Panama city, from $150.

barro colorado Island, in Lago Gatún, is also well worth seeing. The 4,000-acre island was created in 1913 when the chagres was dammed to form Lago Gatún. Here you’ll have hundreds of species of exotic insects to look for. To visit, schedule a tour through the smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (sTRI), which regulates sightseers in order to preserve the pristine rainforest.

If you’d like to go all out and overnight in the rainforest (in luxury), Gamboa Rainforest Resort, in the Parque Nacional soberanía, is your best bet. spread out on 340 acres of protected land, the buildings and layout feel more like a part of the rainforest than a man-made intrusion upon it. Every room and suite has a hammock and private balcony. The resort offers fishing, eco-tours, zip-lining, aerial trams, night safaris and kayaking in the Panama canal. You’ll also have swimming pools, bars, restaurants and a spa. stays here start at $170.

Andrew Madigan

Europe’s Largest Garden

Lost for decades, Heligan has been restored to its former glory. Youcould spend hours exploring everything this garden has to offer.

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Toucans are just some of the exotic creatures that await you in Gamboa.

6 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

wouldn’t provide me with the same lifestyle in Australia that I have here. Our monthly expenses for two people are around 38,000 baht ($1,460)—and that includes feeding four expensively hungry cats! We eat at a nice restaurant at least once a week for around 700 baht ($27) for two, including wine, and we’ll go out for drinks with friends a couple of times each week.

“My favourite restaurant at the moment is Barrab, run by a young Thai girl who spent four years working in Australia. Every

time we go she gives us the formal Thai greeting of a wai, a slight bow where the palms of the hands are placed together and then she brings her husband from the kitchen to say hello. I’ve no idea why she does it but it’s such a lovely gesture. They do good northern food such as laab moo, a warm salad with spicy minced pork, for around 70 baht ($2.70) per person. A simple menu, really good quality food and good prices.

“Fortunately, you can take your own wine to almost every restaurant in Thailand, but it’s not cheap here—about 300 baht ($11) for a basic but drinkable wine. I love Italian food and we sometimes treat ourselves to a meal at Davinci. They do great vegetarian pasta for about 150 baht ($5.70) or a gorgonzola ravioli for 240 baht ($9.20). Pizzas vary with size and toppings

LIFESTYLE

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One of my favourite things to do is to hire a boat and take the hour-long ride up the Kok River to My Dream Guest House. We sit on a rickety old terrace

looking over the river and have a long, slow lunch. I love their chicken schnitzel which they serve with a delicious fried potato dish with onions and herbs. They have an excellent Thai menu, good portions at a good price. Their pad Thai, a noodle dish that you find everywhere in Thailand, is really good. You get out of the city and see the interesting houses on the river,” says Angie Ubosot-Ahern.

And that lovely relaxing three-hour boat rental will cost you a mere 1,000 baht ($38) for a boat for eight people and around 150 baht ($5.70) per person for lunch with a beer.

After seven years in Thailand, Angie still has the enthusiasm for her adoptive country that she had when she arrived from Brisbane in 2009. Tucked up in the north-eastern corner of Thailand, her new home in Chiang Rai is only a three-hour drive from Chiang Mai, the regional capital and second biggest city in the country. Where Chiang Mai attracts those wanting a busy expat social life and plenty of restaurants, Chiang Rai is favoured by people wanting a more peaceful way of life.

“My husband, Mo, and I rent a lovely little wooden house surrounded by trees and flowers 10 minutes from the city centre. The six houses in the compound were all built by the owner at different levels up the side of a small hill and are all different. Our house has two bedrooms (although one of them is my study room), both ensuite, a large terrace and an open-air kitchen. Life in Thailand is lived in the open so you don’t really have things like lounge rooms or dining rooms. Everyone is very friendly and if there is a house empty for a while we use it for parties,” says Angie.

With views across tree-tops and rice fields, Angie’s rent is 6,000 baht ($230) a month, less than half of what she would pay a week for a similar home 10 minutes from any city in Australia. It’s doubtful you could even find such a beautiful and peaceful place as Janpha Cottage (the name of the compound where Angie lives) 10 minutes from an Australian city. And living an easy life is equally affordable.

“I’m fortunate in that I have a small family trust fund, but it

River Cruises, Mountain Views and $230 Rent in Chiang Rai, ThailandBy Derek Workman

Angie Ubosot-Ahern fell in love with the tranquil, Buddhist temples of chiang Rai.

“Our monthly expenses are $1,460.”

“

JULY 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 7

but are between 100 baht ($3.80) and 150 baht ($5.70). What I really like is that they give you a huge plate with three different types of bread, olive dipping sauce and a jar of delicious crunchy breadsticks, all included in the price of the meal.

“For a reasonable meal and drinks in Brisbane at a local Italian, sharing a bottle of wine that we bought at the restaurant, we’d probably be looking at $80 for two, three times what I’d pay in Chiang Rai, and that’s in one of the major wine-producing countries in the world,” she says.

When not eating out, Angie cooks at home, doing most of her shopping at the local markets, where her weekly food spend is between 500 baht ($19) and 1,000 baht ($38). That includes meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and herbs. She says that you certainly couldn’t do the same shop for $40 in Australia; you’d probably be looking at $200. And she’s a mean hand with a curry, having been the owner of The Curry Hut, a small restaurant in Chiang Rai specialising in Thai and Indian curries, before she and husband Mo decided to move to Prachuap Khiri Khan on the southern coast of Thailand in 2015 for eight months.

Angie says, “I’m an adventurous sort of person, and after living in Chiang Rai, which is in the mountains, for six years we decided to live by the sea in Southern Thailand. I’m not a person who misses things, but I realised that being in a close community, being with people I’d made friends with over six years, that’s a long time. In Australia if you’ve known someone for six years you are relatively new friends, but when you are an expat six years of building friendships is a long time, so we came back to Chiang Rai and I’m so happy we did.”

To live the same lifestyle in Australia as Angie lives in Chiang Rai would cost about $1,500 a week, around the same as it costs her a month in Thailand. But even though economically it makes sense to live here, there’s so much more to it than that.

“I studied Buddhism for a long time and I love looking at the temples in the area. Most people just see the buildings with all the carving and gilding but I love the way that so many of them are so wonderfully kitsch. It seems to be part of the Thai temperament that they can mix their strong Buddhist faith with humour in a

way that doesn’t seem to apply elsewhere. It’s the way they live their lives; sabai sabai, which means ‘happy, take it easy, feeling fine’.

“I’ll quite often pop in to Destiny Café beside the clock tower, which is run by Australian volunteers and trains young girls from the hill tribes. It gives them the chance of a future, which they would certainly not have otherwise. They’ve just opened a hairdresser training school next to the café to help even more girls.

“I don’t know what it is but all the people who live here permanently all agree that there’s something special about Chiang Rai. You have the mountains and Kok River, that even has its own beach where people go to eat and drink beer in bamboo cabanas right on the water’s edge. You drive five minutes out of town and you are into gorgeous little villages where you can stop and have a can of beer on the side of the road and a chit-chat with a real local Thai person, so you are constantly getting those cultural experiences even after you’ve been here as long as I have.

“I’ve really tried my best to learn the language because even just knowing the basics enhances your experience of being here so much. I’ve been to funerals, weddings and family parties and ceremonies and it’s made my experience of life in Thailand very rich. The successful foreigners here are those who have tried to learn the language, have embraced the food, the culture and become part of daily life.

“I came to Chiang Rai in my mid-40s as a volunteer for the International Humanity Foundation because it was the cheapest place to volunteer. I helped out in a centre for hill-tribe kids so they could come to Chiang Rai and go to school. I met some lovely Thai people and foreigners and basically just fell in love with Chiang Rai.

“It was all so new to me in the beginning but I fell in love with the place because of the freedom of riding a motorbike and the smell of outside barbecues. I’m a Buddhist and love the temples, I love ritual and culture; all those things fascinate me and I still love it. I just love it all.

“For anyone dithering about whether they should come to Thailand to live, I’d say if you have an income, which can be either a pension or some other form of regular funds coming in, come and enjoy yourself. It’s a great easy-going place to live, you can meet some nice people, have a lovely time and I know a lot of foreign couples who enjoy their life here. There’s quite a large expat community if you crave that social contact with other foreigners, with painting classes, golf, movies and if you rent a house you can always find something to do, whether it’s gardening or bits of DIY. There’s so much to enjoy in this country,” she says. n

“It’s a great easy-going place to live.”

8 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

Each day I start the morning with a coffee on my tropical plant-filled balcony and watch the world go by. I live in one of the nicest

parts of Phnom Penh. My two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment costs me just $600 a month and yet I get to live a somewhat luxurious life with everything taken care of by my landlord, including a three-times-a-week cleaning service. I am close by all of the comforts I like to enjoy, including trips to a local French patisserie and my favourite juice bar, whilst never too far away from the Cambodian side of life.

Despite the passage of time and a new era of development, Phnom Penh is a city where everything still manages to find its place in the mixture of old and new. Colonial buildings stand alongside centuries-old temples, farther down the same street is a traditional market and just around the corner is a multi-storey modern shopping centre.

This is why I am happy to call the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh my home. But I am not alone, as it’s estimated that at least 80,000 expats now live and work in Phnom Penh. Year after year, more and more people are recognising the benefits of moving to one of Asia’s most foreign-friendly countries for Westerners, which includes a flexible visa policy and a low cost of living.

Currently, my cost of living is around $1,875 and I’m not the only one who thinks the cost of living here is great. Retired expat Nick Hall says, “The cost of living in this city is very reasonable compared to anywhere in Australia. And the money I get in retirement is more than enough to keep me afloat with a nice apartment, plenty of

Renting

The Insider’s Guide to Renting in the “Pearl of Asia”

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socialising and a fair few holidays around Asia each year.”

In Phnom Penh it is possible, even on a limited budget, to live well. You can rent a centrally-located apartment in a nice area for as little as $400 per month, enjoy daily visits to a range of local and international

restaurants, buy groceries at supermarket chains in modern shopping centres and still have enough left to enjoy a drink or two each night at one of the city’s many expat establishments.

I have lived here for the best part of a decade now. During this time, I

have seen Phnom Penh undergo a massive change from a low-rise city of townhouses to one with a soaring skyline of skyscrapers and serviced apartments.

The way I see it, it is more prudent to

rent at this time since there is such a wide range of options available.

The Best Neighbourhoods in Phnom Penh

Below are the four most popular areas for expats to live in Phnom Penh. The first sets the standard for the rest, in my opinion…

Boueng Keng Kang 1: Known locally as BKK 1, this is a thriving yet distinctly suburban neighbourhood with tree-lined streets, trendy coffee shops, local and international restaurants and rows of modern shops. While some serviced apartments command extremely high prices it is still possible to rent a small apartment for $400 to $500 a month. I call this neighbourhood home.

Recently, there was a property near my apartment with a rental sign, so I popped in for a look. The Western-style apartment is located just five minutes

Phnom Penh, cambodia’s busy capital, mixes the old with the new and is the perfect place to rent your dream home.

“Colonial buildings stand

alongside centuries-old

temples.”

by steven king

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from Independence Monument in the city centre. It is close to popular eateries, a successful American-style deli and trendy coffee shops. In this blossoming neighbourhood there is a great local market and an international shopping centre. The apartment is fully furnished with one bedroom and one bathroom plus a modern kitchen and is a bargain at $475 per month.

Daun Penh: Located in the centre of the city, Daun Penh is home to the Wat Phnom Temple, and also encompasses the tourist area of the Riverside and fashionable social streets such as Street 240. Here, modern mid-rise apartments coexist with American Bar and Grills and French wine bars. Properties in this area are sought after because of their central location and also because there is demand for short-term tourist rentals.

I found a second-floor apartment right behind the Royal Palace and within walking distance of Street 240 and the Riverside—a convenient location for anyone who enjoys the social scene. Fully furnished to Western standards, the apartment has two bedrooms, two bathrooms, an open plan living area and kitchen and it is available for $675 per month.

Toul Tom Poung: Famous for the Russian Market—the best market if you’re after bargains on anything from souvenirs to designer handbags—this area is desirable for expats who want to avoid the Riverside tourist scene and who find BKK1 a bit too “flash”. It is more down to earth and seems to attract many not-for-profit restaurants and coffee shops as well as significant numbers of artisans and antiques dealers.

Recently I found a serviced apartment in a popular complex for expats: this two-bedroom, two-bathroom unit comes with an open plan living area, modern kitchen and plant-filled balcony. The rent includes Pay TV, internet, water, weekly cleaning services and secure parking for only $700 per month.

Toul Kork: This area of the city is popular with the local elite. If you’re looking to rent somewhere a little bigger, this area is worth checking out. Made up of a variety of newly-built apartment complexes and large villas, this area of the

city is full of amenities. Shopping centres, restaurant franchises, international schools, universities and also golf courses make it the perfect choice.

A fully-furnished, serviced apartment complex unit containing one bedroom and

bathroom, is available for rent. It includes a big living room with a large screen TV, luxury sofa and air conditioning throughout the unit. As part of the rental package you have full access to a shared swimming pool and gym while also

receiving free access to Pay TV, internet, water, plus secure parking for only $740 per month.

How to Get the Perfect RentalThe most effective and cost-efficient

way to find a rental is to simply select the area of the city where you want to live then hire a taxi or tuk-tuk to go house-hunting for a few hours.

Look for property rental notices posted on the front of houses. Even if the sign is in Khmer there will always be a phone number listed and you can ask either your driver or a local friend to help call the landlord to arrange a viewing of the property.

Make sure to visit the area at least twice—once during the day and then again after dark to see if there are any negatives—traffic, local nightlife etc.

In Cambodia rental prices are often negotiable, provided you approach the landlord with the right attitude and are willing to commit to a certain length of lease.

Depending on the type of rental, you might only have to commit for as little as one to three months, while longer term leases are usually 12 months. Generally, for a longer lease you have more leeway to negotiate a better monthly rental.

If you use a local agent, standard practice is that the landlord will pay a finder’s fee of one month’s rent directly to the agent rather than you being obliged to pay for their service.

But if you found the rental property

by yourself this is a discussion point you can politely raise. In any such type of negotiation the best option is to be indirect and respectful with the landlord to establish a positive relationship and create some flexibility with them.

Other things to be aware of are monthly utility fees which landlords may try to pad out. Going rates for electricity are around $0.25 per kW, $6.50 for water, $2.50 for CINTRI (privatised rubbish collection) while Pay TV access should not cost any more than $6.50.

Generally, most landlords require a deposit of one or two month’s rent. Ask for a signed receipt upon payment so that everything is documented. It is not advisable to agree to anything unless you first receive a copy of the lease agreement.

Check the terms and conditions of the agreement clearly before signing anything—it should include your name and passport number as well as that of the landlord, a schedule of rental payment amounts and due dates, an inventory of the furnishings and the full address of the property.

It is also a good idea to take photos of the furniture and current state of the interior for reference when your lease

expires to avoid potential disputes.

After agreeing, reviewing and signing your lease then it is a legal requirement to provide a copy of your passport and visa to the landlord who has to register your tenancy with local Sangkat

(council or commune) officials.No matter how big or small your

budget remember, your home is your castle so if it isn’t fit for a king then keep on looking. In Phnom Penh there are always more properties available for rent so you don’t need to settle for second best.

Find what is going to suit your needs, strike a fair deal and you’ll be home, sweet home. n

Editor’s Note: Steven King is our on the ground expert when it comes to Cambodia. In fact he has just written the most comprehensive guide on living and retiring in Cambodia that we’ve ever published. Find out more about this hot off the presses guide here.

“Here, you don’t need to settle for second best.”

“In Cambodia, rental prices

are often negotiable.”

10 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

LIVING THE DREAM

wine industry and Nadine in publishing. Both of them wanted a different life.

One Sunday, they started talking about where they wanted to be one year down the line. “We decided to make some fun of it and speak our heart on the count of three,” says Benjamin. “When the count came, she said, ‘Sicily.’ I said, ‘With you.’ We stopped there, on that dirt road, and made a pact.” One year later, Benjamin, Nadine, their dog and two cats started a new life in Italy.

The couple now rent a beautiful, three-bedroom villa surrounded by citrus and palm trees, less than 213 metres from the beach, for less than $1,350 a month.

“We enjoy walking to our favourite bar, with our dog, where we have breakfast most mornings,” says Benjamin of their easy-going daily routine. “Your days can be filled with simple pleasures. A relaxing morning, a slow-cooked lunch, a long nap and coffee at the bar when you wake, followed by a light dinner and a leisurely stroll before bed.

Sicilian town. Life moves at a slower pace here. And that’s just the way the couple like it. “It is romantic, in a way,” says Benjamin. “The pace in Sicily is what I would call rural Mediterranean. Here, domani (“tomorrow” in Italian) is a common answer for many questions.”—Anna Lebedeva.

“It’s Great To Live Where World-Class Wines Are Produced” Names: Stuart and Elizabeth Byrom Age: 66 and 68 Living in: Amboise, France

In the Loire Valley, the so-called “Valley of the Kings,” every day ends with a glass of affordable, delicious local wine.

The mornings and afternoons are rich—full of leisurely cycle rides along the beautiful and famous Loire River, past verdant vineyards, visiting sprawling chateaux with their ancient towers and lush gardens, and strolling through historic, well-kept towns. The weather is mild and pleasant. And the cost of living is inexpensive.

For Stuart and Elizabeth Byrom, this isn’t just a daydream. It’s their day-to-day life.

Stuart and Elizabeth have been living in France since 2008, when they moved their life to a small apartment they had bought in Paris’s 7th arrondissement, near the Eiffel Tower. From there they travelled widely throughout France on a quest for the region that felt most like home. And it was the Loire Valley, with its lush landscapes and chateau-dotted hills, which captured their hearts.

Stuart and Elizabeth bought their home in the town of Amboise in 2010. They spent 2011 renovating and improving the space and moved in permanently at the end of that year. Five years later, the Byroms have not tired of the Loire’s charms.

“It’s a really nice place to cycle, because they’ve got so many back roads and dedicated cycling paths, and it’s just beautiful following the Loire River by bike,” says Elizabeth. “Much of it is wine country, so you’re always going through vineyards, and you stop to visit the chateaux and wineries along the way.

“And the food is excellent,” she says. “This part of France is called ‘the garden of France,’ and it really is. Amboise has two outdoor markets—a small one

Genteel Living in Europe’s Wine Regions“Our Expenses Are Half What They Were Back Home” Names: Benjamin North Spencer and Nadine Guarrera Spencer Ages: 41 Living in: Riposto, Sicily, Italy

“We were tired of punching the clock, making other people rich, losing time,” says expat Benjamin North Spencer of his and his wife Nadine’s decision to relocate to Sicilian wine country. Here they enjoy a rural Mediterranean lifestyle for half the cost of life back home.

Back in 2012, the couple moved to the historic, coastal town of Riposto. Here, the shimmering waters of the Mediterranean are just a short stroll away, while Mount Etna, Sicily’s active volcano, provides a magnificent backdrop.

Riposto lies at the heart of an area famous for its heroic wines; they are so called because of the extreme conditions the vineyards thrive in. Wine production in this part of Sicily dates back more than 3,000 years, and Riposto played an important role in its history. Here wines were blended, barrelled and shipped to northern Italy, France and Greece.

Given this heritage, Riposto is the perfect place for a wine connoisseur to call home. Benjamin has put his passion and knowledge of the industry to practice: He consults to small craft wineries and runs a wine school that offers customised wine courses for wine lovers, gastronomic adventurers, sommeliers and journalists. He loves living and working in a wine-growing region and participating in grape harvests.

“Being this close to Etna makes it possible to get involved in the process. It is an incredible, tangible experience; you see how humans and nature work together. I enjoy the harvest and following the evolution of the wines, experiencing the wines as they age and seeing how the producers progress.”

The couple has come a long way from their old life. Prior to moving to Sicily, Benjamin worked in the restaurant and

“Your days can be filled with simple

pleasures.”“Our monthly living expenses are

roughly half of what they were back home,” he says. “Taking into account our lifestyle choices—diet, walking, using trains, buying local and only what’s in season—we were able to reduce our costs while raising our quality of life.”

The couple spends about $88 a week on groceries, buying the best produce from local suppliers. “Our local vegetable gardens are around the block. We go there, order what we want and they cut it for us. The taste is completely different from what you get in supermarkets. The volcano gives a special flavour to everything that grows here.”

There is no racing around in this small

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featuring fresh local food on Fridays, and a Sunday market that’s enormous, full of food, furniture, gardening equipment, beds, everything.

“Plus, the weather is great. We will maybe have five or 10 days in the 30s C in summer and five or 10 days in the single digits in the winter—and that’s it. We are really happy here.

“It’s great to live where world-class wines are produced. It’s yet another incentive for our friends and family to come visit us here. It’s great to show them our favourite vineyards and to sample the wines onsite. Vouvray, perhaps the most prestigious of the Loire Valley white wines, is about 16 kilometres from Amboise, making it easy to visit wineries and stock up on good wines. We also enjoy medium-body reds from Chinon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.”

emptied of cars. I felt like the sound of my suitcase wheels, dragging thunderously along the tiled sidewalks, was the only noise in the entire city.

But then Logroño surprised me. It swarmed to life as dusk approached. Cafés filled. Residents streamed across sidewalks. People swung in and out of storefronts along the Gran Vía.

As the lampposts flickered on, the side streets of Laurel and San Juan overflowed with late-night diners. In northern Spain, tapas are known as pinchos. And Logroño’s pincho streets in the casco antiguo (old town) are widely known as the best places to sample them. Served up with world-famous Rioja wine and freshly poured cañas (small glasses of draft beer), a night out at the most popular pincho bars will only set you back about €10 (around $15).

At first I was astounded by how far €5 (around $7.50) would stretch at the supermarket. But now I think it’s normal to be able to pick up the essentials—a loaf of bread, cereal, milk and some fruit—and still have change left over. A wonderful reality of living in La Rioja is how much further your money stretches. For less than €3 ($4.55) you can buy a nice bottle of wine. For €425 a month (around $644), you can rent a furnished, three-bedroom apartment. That means you have enough space for you and your spouse to spread out—with a spare room for guests.

A €1.75 (less than $3) bus fare will get you to the pueblos (villages) with the best bodegas, where you can spend an entire afternoon touring, tasting and talking to the bodega owners. Franco-Española, for instance, is just across the Ebro River. In operation for more than 125 years, the bodega is famed for its semi-sweet white wine Diamante and its red Rioja reserve Bordón.

La Rioja is surrounded by scenic green mountains, picturesque vineyards and Old-World monasteries. If your hobby is hiking, there are many trails to follow, including the renowned Camino de Santiago, which curves through Logroño’s backyard.

Still undiscovered by tourists who favour the Costa del Sol and Barcelona, La Rioja’s capital city is a place where you really can live the European lifestyle—the café culture, the fine wines and famed gastronomy—without breaking the bank. Just don’t tell anyone who told you.—Lauren Kaye. n©

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your money stretches further in La Rioja, home to some of spain’s finest wineries.

Byroms, France hasn’t cost the earth.“Back home, we’d pay well over $130

per month for TV,” says Stuart. “And that’s without the premium channels. And our phone and internet were separate. Here, for a package of telephone, mobile phone, internet and basic TV, we pay €38 (around $58) per month. And the phone is internet-based, so we can call home for free.”—Gigi Griffis.

“Live the European Lifestyle—Without Breaking the Bank” Name: Lauren Kaye Age: 30s Living in: Logroño, Spain

I’d like to let you in on one of Spain’s best-kept secrets: Logroño.

This small but bustling city in the heart of Spanish wine country is the perfect place to while away mornings sipping coffee and people-watching, and your afternoons with delicious wine from a nearby bodega.

At the heart of the Ebro Valley, and with a population of around 150,000, Logroño is surrounded by mountains but still well connected. It’s just two hours from San Sebastián’s clamshell shore, three hours from the centre of historic Madrid and four from lively Barcelona. It’s better known as the capital of La Rioja, Spain’s smallest region, which produces some of the country’s finest wines.

I was one of the city’s unwitting victims. I moved to Logroño, a place that seemingly no one had ever heard of, on an assignment to teach English. When I arrived at 3 p.m. on a Wednesday back in 2015, I thought I’d found myself in a ghost town. In the middle of siesta, steel grates shielded the doors of shops along the street. The city’s main arteries were

“It’s great to live where world-class wines

are produced.”

The couple has also found the time and inspiration for their creative projects in the Loire Valley. Elizabeth is a budding textile artist and spends happy hours in her studio (formerly the master bedroom of their home) dyeing fabric, sewing and torching. Stuart is similarly occupied with his woodworking workshop and his photography, which results in a daily photo blog called Amboise Daily Photo.

With such a charmed lifestyle, you’d think the price tag of living in the Loire would be high. Not so: According to the

12 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

I’m strolling along a pretty red brick promenade, gazing at a scattering of fishing boats bobbing in the luminous blue-green waters of a small harbour. The warmth of the May sunshine on my shoulders feels like an embrace, and the sky is so flawlessly blue, it’s as if someone has used a

colour filter. I head toward the cafés and restaurants encircling the harbour in search of a cappuccino, feeling almost giddy with contentment.

This is the town of St. Julian’s on the island nation of Malta, a five-island archipelago just south of Sicily and about 483 kilometres off the coast of Tunisia. It’s my fourth day on the main island and already, I’m dreaming about living here. And why not? For anyone who loves the idea of living in the midst of the rich history of old Europe, craves sunshine and cyan-hued waters, crisp Mediterranean winters and a mellow lifestyle, it’s ideal. The cherry on top? It’s English-speaking.

Malta is something of a “hidden gem”. While known by many Europeans retirees, particularly U.K. citizens, it tends to fly under the radar of most Australians.

“I’d never even heard of it before I started looking to live

abroad,” admits Lisa Crawford, 54, a retired accountant and medical administrator who has lived in Malta since 2014. “But it kept popping up in my searches for warm European locations. I ended up moving here without even visiting first. I intended only to stay a few months. It’s now been a year and a half.”

Perhaps its small size makes it easy to overlook. Malta, the main island, is just 290 square kilometres, while the second largest island, Gozo, is only 67 square kilometres. The tiny isle of Comino is the only one of the remaining three islands that’s inhabited—and it only has four residents. From these figures alone, one could have the impression that Malta’s just a sleepy little island chain with not much going on.

Nothing could be farther from the truth. Frankly, there seems to be a never-ending amount of things to do. Courtesy of its 7,000-year history, these islands have a greater density of historic sites than any other country in the world: Megalithic stone temples 1,000 years older than the Great Pyramid of Giza, carefully preserved ancient Roman ruins, jaw-dropping limestone medieval forts, towers and ramparts and churches, churches, churches, with

A “Hidden Gem” in the Mediterranean: Retire to Affordable MaltaBy Barbara Diggs

The fortified town of Senglea (pictured) is just one of Malta’s history-rich towns. Here you can rent a furnished apartment from $950 a month.

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EXPLORATION

“There is a never-ending amount of

things to do.”

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official language is English. Official documents and road signs are all bilingual, and the vast majority of books, movies, newspapers and internet sites are in English, making it easy for foreign Anglophones to manage and enjoy life.

One thing that surprised me, and made me envision myself living in Malta, is the large and welcoming international community. Let’s put it this way: I knew no one when I landed in Malta. Six days later, I found myself happily dancing to ‘70s and ‘80s tunes in the beautifully converted stone cellar of a private

home with about 15 expats. Average age of the group? Around 53.

“The expat community is one of the best things about living in Malta,” says Lisa. “There are several expat groups here: Malta Social…InterNations…246 Expats Malta. People keep an ear out for English-speakers here. We’ll just go up to them and invite them to one of our weekly morning coffees.”

Of course, Malta isn’t perfect. Winters, though very short, can be unpleasant. “Malta housing is built for the hot months of summer,” explains Wendie. “So in the winter when it is endlessly raining, you get a coldness and dampness that can’t be undone with the simple wall heating unit.”

The frustration of Maltese bureaucracy is another complaint, particularly for non-EU citizens seeking a legal residency permit. “The problem in Malta is that you don’t know what the rules are,” says Lisa, for whom it took seven months of repeated trips to the Department of Citizenship and Expatriate Affairs to obtain her residency permit. “It doesn’t matter what the websites say: it depends on whom you’re talking to at that moment.”

Others worry about Malta’s rate of development. Cranes are regular features in Maltese skylines, and on any given street, you’re bound to hear the sound of hammering and the shouts of workers. “Malta is growing very fast and developing out of control possibly,” says Michael Salone, an American who moved to Malta from Paris 18 months ago. “I saw it growing up in Miami and worry that Malta will go to that extreme. The difference is that Malta is much smaller than Miami so there’s only so much it can grow and very few natural resources.”

But even with Malta’s imperfections, expats here seem

dazzlingly baroque interiors, everywhere you turn. Being a Mediterranean island, there’s no shortage of water-

based sports and activities, naturally. Even though you can almost count the number of sandy beaches on Malta and Gozo on one hand (most “beaches” here are enormous flat rocky shelves, sculpted by time and the sea), snorkelling, scuba diving, sailing and swimming in the island’s crystal blue waters are favourite pastimes of many.

Malta also plays host to dozens of “festi”—festivals. Most are traditional religious celebrations, usually in honour of the patron saint of a village. Recently, more secular festivities have been instituted, including July’s annual Malta Jazz Festival and the Malta International Fireworks Festival in late April, created in honour of the country’s acceptance into the EU in 2004.

But I’d want to be there for the festivals that you might only hear about if you’re local. Like the “gostra,” a rowdy summertime tradition in St. Julian’s, where Maltese competitors attempt to climb a 20-metre oily pole to capture a flag. Or the “Festa Frawli” (strawberry festival) in the farming village of Mgarr, which celebrates local strawberries in every permutation, from strawberry ice cream to strawberry risotto!

These attractions make Malta interesting and fun, but it’s not just these charms that make it so highly appealing as a retirement destination. No, it’s that Malta seems so…liveable.

Prior to this trip, I had the idea that Malta was the sort of place only international yacht-owning playboys could afford. Although that contingent certainly has a presence here, I was wrong about the rest. For a Mediterranean island, it is astonishingly affordable.

Countless “regular” expats live in Malta, drawn both by the climate and the low cost of living. Lisa finds the island much more affordable than back home. “I think a couple could easily live on about $2,700 a month here,” she says. “I pay $1,060 a month for a three-bedroom furnished apartment with a separate kitchen and dining room. I spend about $608 per month in groceries—and that’s being generous. Then there’s about $155 for utilities. Those are the biggest items.”

Wendie Vandenbeusque, an expat who lived in Malta for three years before returning home for family reasons, was also attracted by the cost of living. “It was very affordable in Malta,” she says. “One thing we loved was not having a car, car payments, insurance payments or maintenance payments… And I loved getting fresh bread every day for less than 50 cents!”

Other expats feel the $2,700 per month estimate is a little low. Robert Court, a retiree from the U.K. who lives in Gozo, says he thinks a couple would need at least €2,400 ($3,650) per month to live “very comfortably”. “But I like to eat out at really nice restaurants every 10 days or so,” he adds. “The kind that cost about €100 ($150) for dinner for two.”

Whatever the minimum monthly cost, it’s clear that Malta isn’t simply a playground for the wealthy. It’s easy to have excellent meals at seafront restaurants for about $30, including a glass of local wine. Buses, the primary means of public transportation, cost only $2. Delicious frothy cappuccinos cost $3.40, at most.

Another aspect that makes Malta so accessible? Most people speak English fluently. The country’s first official language is Maltese, a Semitic language heavily influenced by Italian. Due to more than 150 years of British rule, however, the country’s second

“English is spoken fluently

here.”

As if Malta needs another feather in its cap: the island offers excellent healthcare. The World Health Organisation ranked Malta as having the world’s 5th overall best healthcare system. The country has several hospitals, public and private, and a network of health clinics that offer preventative, curative and rehabilitative care. Although expats must have private health insurance, the medical services and treatments are affordable. A doctor visit costs about $27. Specialists cost $87. Lab work? Usually around $40. Not too bad when compared to prices in Australia.

Australia has a reciprocal healthcare agreement with Malta, which means Australian citizens can get public healthcare for free.

EXcELLENT HEALTHcARE IN MALTA

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incredibly happy. If you think the downsides are a fair trade for its benefits, then take a look at a few spots where you might live…

Valletta. It’s hard not to be enchanted by beautiful Valletta, the capital of Malta. Completely surrounded by towering pale-gold limestone walls and bastions, splendidly illuminated at night, Valletta gives the impression of guarding something very precious within. And so it does. The city is all old-world beauty, from exquisite 16th-century palaces and churches, to picturesque 300-year old gardens with extraordinary views over the city’s Grand Harbour, to large public piazzas that are inevitably the site of some event or festa.

Valletta was created in the mid-16th century by the Order of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John, an order of noble “warrior monks” dedicated to helping the needy and fighting their centuries-old enemies, the Ottoman Turks. After the Turks decimated Malta in the Great Siege of 1565, the Knights built Valletta as a fortified city to withstand further attacks. From a modern perspective, they did more than that: they created a city of lasting architectural splendour.

Some say that Valletta didn’t have much going on outside of tourist attractions a few years ago. If that’s true, it’s changed now. The city has many restaurants, cafés, wine bars and clubs, some of which offer live music. There’s also the Manoel Theatre, one of the oldest in Europe, which offers a variety of shows, from classical music to avant-garde Shakespeare.

In terms of real estate, the housing on Valletta is a mix of maisonettes, gorgeous old renovated palazzos (sometimes divided into apartments, sometimes for sale as is), and townhouses. It’s not uncommon for interiors to have amazing character, such as ivory-coloured limestone walls, vaulted stone arches and elegant tile floors.

You can find properties with such charm for about $310,760, although they’re not plentiful and likely short on sunlight. You’ll have more choices if you’re prepared to spend $540,450 or more. That said, there’s currently a striking three-level townhouse on the market with a double bedroom, fully-equipped kitchen, graceful vaulted ceilings, exposed stone walls and wood ceiling beams for €239,000 ($363,940). (See: Perry.com.mt)

Sliema & Other Northern Coastal Towns. Just a five-minute ferry ride from Valletta across the Marsamxett Harbour is the waterfront town of Sliema. For most of its history, Sliema was a

quiet fishing village, but over the past century it began to grow into a popular seaside holiday destination. Today, it’s a modern, bustling town of 16,800 where Maltese, expats and tourists seem to mingle comfortably.

Here you’ll find a diverse range of restaurants, from traditional Maltese to Thai to New York-style burger joints. (Don’t miss

having a coffee or an excellent seasonally fresh lunch at the seafront café, Mint.) You’ve also got shopping centres, English pubs, bookstores and just about any other “biggish” city feature.

From Sliema you can easily walk along a lovely five-kilometre red brick promenade to other coastal towns, such as St. Julian’s, Paceville and Gzira. (Or you can take one of the many buses that follow this route.) Although in close proximity, each town has its own personality. St. Julian’s seems slightly livelier and holiday resort-like than Sliema, although plenty of Maltese, expats and retirees live there. Paceville also has a fun vibe, although reportedly it’s getting a little seedy these days.

Personally, I got to know Sliema best, and loved wandering its quiet side streets admiring the rows of pale limestone buildings with their colourful gallarija (enclosed wooden balconies). While it was touristy and busy along the waterfront area known as The Strand, sipping a glass of wine in the evening while looking out on the floodlit ramparts and bastions of Valletta felt magical.

Sliema is far from the fishing village it used to be and building continues here strongly. I visited one brand-new “gated” complex in the fashionable area of Fort Tigne along the waterfront that offers beautifully designed, new apartments with multiple bedrooms, state-of-the art kitchens, marble floors and balconies

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EXPLORATION

For Australians and other non-EU citizens, obtaining a Maltese residence visa can be a bewildering process seemingly rampant with contradictory information. But you can get one. Malta has multiple official programs for non-EU citizens to obtain legal residence, including the Malta citizenship by Investment Program, the Global Residency and Visa Program and the “Economic Self-Sufficiency” program. The criteria differ under each platform, but for each the essential element is having sufficient funds. Luckily, you can apply for residence once you’re already in Malta—which means it’s easy to remind yourself why it’s worth any hassle. For more see: Identitymalta.com.

LegaL ResIdence foR non-eU cItIzens In MaLta

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“Valletta is a city of lasting architectural

splendour.”

The picturesque waterfront town of Sliema has grown in popularity with locals and expats.

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feature modern and classical plays, dance performances and fully-staged operas with international soloists.

As Gozo is more remote than Malta, real estate prices are lower and better value. On the ferry, there’s a huge real estate

advertisement that assures you of owning a home on Gozo for €100,000 ($152,240) or less. It’s true. You can find perfectly nice, furnished one- or two-bedroom apartments for this price—some, even with sea views. (See: Remax-malta.com.)

But for a bit more you can get a home with character. For example, there’s currently on offer an attractive stone three-bedroom furnished maisonette in the pretty village of Xlendi with a small front garden and backyard, and rooftop

views of the sea and countryside for €140,000 ($213,140). (See: Rightmove.co.uk.)

Now might be a smart time to buy in Gozo. While there is some resort building on Gozo, there’s nowhere near the boom that’s taking place on Malta—yet. But some say it’s only a matter of time. “The Maltese are starting to buy properties here for weekend getaways,” says Nickie, a Maltese who moved to Gozo full-time several years ago. “I think in another 20 years, Gozo will be like the Hamptons of Malta.” n

that jut straight out over the sea. Prices start at €485,000 ($738,540) for a second-floor apartment and rise rapidly from there.

That’s for high luxury. You can buy a simple renovated two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment in Sliema with a balcony for about $226,960, or a newly built three-bedroom, two-bathroom for $405,260. Prices are similar in St. Julian’s, a shade less in Gzira.

Rental prices in these northern coastal towns are great value. In Sliema or St. Julian’s you can rent a simple, furnished two-bedroom apartment for as low as €525 ($800). A similar apartment with chic furnishings or features such as a balcony and a parking space is likely to cost upwards of €800 ($1,200).

Three Cities. I have few regrets from my short stay in Malta, but being unable to get to know the historic “Three Cities” better is one of them. The Three Cities—Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua—are three beautiful fortified towns that lie just across Valletta’s Grand Harbour. Each have histories and harbours that stretch back to Phoenician times and were centre stage during the Great Siege of 1565.

The Three Cities have a strong expat community, particularly Senglea, which is where I spent the evening dancing to oldies. “Senglea is the ‘real’ Malta,” says Senglea resident Michael Salone. “People have lived here their whole life and know each other. More importantly for me, the people are very accepting of the ‘foreigners’ (as we’re called here) moving into the city.”

In Senglea, you can buy a furnished, converted three-bedroom townhouse with character starting from about $283,700. For $452,500, you can buy a spacious, furnished maisonette with patterned tiles, large windows, a wrought-iron staircase and access to a terrace that offers incredible views of Valletta and Fort St. Elmo. (See: Franksalt.com.mt). Rentals for a furnished two-bedroom apartment cost about $950 to $1,200.

Gozo. Gozo is just a 25-minute ferry ride away from the northernmost tip of Malta, but, as my Gozitan taxi driver put it, the divide between the two islands is greater than the distance.

The different nature of the two islands is almost immediately evident upon exiting the ferry. Gozo is rural tranquility, dusty brown and olive green, with flat-topped plateaus and hilltop towns spinning out in every direction. Despite the spare agricultural feel of the island and sparse population (Gozo has around 31,000 citizens compared with Malta’s 440,000), every single town is crowned with a massive baroque limestone church that wouldn’t look out of place in Paris or Rome.

Like Malta, Gozo is rich in historical sites, including the ancient stone temple, Ggantija, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But the island is probably best known for its stunning sheer cliffs and picturesque bays, the excellent snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities, its scenic walking trails and the “Azure Window”—a natural limestone arch that superbly frames the resplendent blue of the Inland Sea.

Gozo’s population may be small, but there’s still a sizeable expat community here. “It used to be majority British about 20 years ago, but now you’ll find all sorts of nationalities here,” says U.K. retiree Robert Court.

Although Gozo is generally quiet, Robert says cultural activities abound, including classical concerts, festivals and art exhibitions. Indeed, Rabat (Victoria), Gozo’s capital, has two theatres that ©

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“Rent a two-bedroom

apartment for as low as $800.”

Republic Street, a pedestrian shopping street, runs like a spine down the centre of Valletta.

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The beauty of housesitting is that the opportunities are available both on and off the beaten path. The savings allow us to spend more time in places, like the south of France or London, that would usually be out of budget for an extended stay for our family.

Helpful Tips: We have learned a few things during our many assignments that have saved us time and money, and taken us to many dream locations.

First, there are many housesitting sites available with listings around the world. We use Trusted HouseSitters, Mind My House and House Carers. We also use local sites that in many countries are the “go-to” resource just for that market. We discover these sites by asking local real estate agents and property managers when we enter a new country. The sites have small membership fees (ranging from $30 to $135 for the year) that we have found more than worth the money.

Second, flexibility helps in terms of dates and timeframes. The housesitter profile everyone appears to be looking for is a professional, single person, or couple that has flexibility with travel dates.

Third, a responsible online presence helps immensely. While many of the housesitting sites have important profile sections, most

of the assignments we have been offered have come from our blog, Livology. People like to see who we are, and it gives credibility to our family travels. Many homeowners have told us that our social media presence and/or blog have been the reason we were chosen.

Although this is true, we now find many of our opportunities through word of mouth. Once a positive reputation has been established you will have more opportunities than you can handle coming your way.

Lifelong Relationships: Housesitting is not a holiday, and it will push you outside of your comfort zone. We find the most successful housesits for us are those where both parties treat it like a partnership more than an employee/boss relationship. Housesitting works because both parties have “skin in the game.”

Yes, homeowners are trusting us to act as stewards for the lives they have built, but it also requires trust on our end. We invest time and money getting to far away destinations and the more open the line of communication, the better.

From remote locations in the Southern Hemisphere, to glittering cities in Europe, we are forever changed by this simple opportunity. Each place we spend time in, we leave a part of ourselves. When we establish real relationships with people, roots take hold naturally and in the most unforeseen places. n

Editor’s Note: Want to try your hand at housesitting, just like Colleen? Learn how to do it from the experts, here.

Living Large Around the World Rent-Free

FUND YOUR LIFE

Sassi di Matera, are ancient cave dwellings in the Italian city of Matera, Basilicata, and you can discover them while housesitting.

By Colleen Mariotti

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I sat around a hand-hewn, farm table made of Tawa wood in Nelson, New Zealand. I was surrounded by my husband, children and various neighbours as we celebrated a day of moving sheep and turning gardens. In front of me was an abundance of Feijoas, passionfruit, hazelnuts,

walnuts and a fresh homemade lemon cordial. The air was still and the autumnal sun was graciously warm. It was a perfect moment.

Since leaving our old life in 2013, with three kids in tow, we have spent time in 23 countries and counting. More than half of our time wandering the globe has been spent housesitting, which saves us an average of $3,380 a month…approximately what our house back home, with utilities, cost us.

Our very first assignment was in Basilicata, Italy, tucked between the southern Apennines and the Mediterranean Sea. The neighbour taught our family how to make pancetta on New Year’s Eve. Then there was the pizzeria we watched over, during the off-season in the Alps, while the owner took a much-deserved break. We often looked after businesses that were closed for the off-season and answered the phone or took queries as part of the arrangement.

I remember the apartment in Barcelona, Spain, that was for sale and felt desperately vacant, until we breathed life back into the echoing spaces…I remember the vulnerable grapevines in Aix-en-Provence that needed to be tucked in and watched over for any late winter frost…I remember the ritual of opening the shutters each morning at the villa we tended over a Tuscan winter. The ochre sun, as it hit the terracotta floors, bathed the house in a buttery light.

All of these diverse experiences came to us through housesitting.

Incredible Value: If you are considering an overseas move, housesitting is the perfect way to judge whether a culture, region or country is a good fit for you.

While renting an apartment or home can give you more of a sense of place than a hotel, housesitting adds even more richness. Because you are literally stepping into someone’s home and community, real life starts immediately.

Housesitting is also a great way to try on different hats. Do you fancy running a bed and breakfast on the French Riviera or watching over a flock of sheep in Puglia, Italy? Have you thought of restoring a castle in the Spanish countryside or caring for rescue animals in the Greek islands?

Housesitting assignments are as diverse as the people offering their homes. Some are free in exchange for property responsibilities, such as pets and gardens. Some opportunities require payment for utilities. Others may pay a small salary for varied tasks such as booking customers in the off-season or making the occasional meal at a B&B.

“Housesitting saves us $3,380 a month.”

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need was the money to travel and live while we were there (food, touring and often the cost of utilities).

We’ve now spent almost six months in Costa Rica as housesitters, and I would say we’ve saved upwards of $8,000 on what our living expenses might otherwise have been.

Our first assignment was in the sleepy town of Cabuya, at the very end of the Nicoya Peninsula. The owners of a retreat needed

someone to watch their place while they returned to their home in New York for three months. In exchange for housing, we cared for their property, including the pool. The gardener took care of the grounds. We received guests, did laundry and cleaned the cabanas after guests left.

The rest of our time there was spent eating mangoes from the trees on the property, watching the howler and spider monkeys, swimming in the pool and exploring

the surrounding beach towns of Mal Pais, Santa Teresa and Montezuma. We even went snorkelling at the famed Tortuga Island.

Finding a HouseLife as housesitters began for us when my daughter, Rachel,

suggested we check out a website called TrustedHousesitters.com. She and her family live in the highlands of Costa Rica, and we were holidaying with them…our first experience visiting Latin America. Already considering an international move, this gave us a glimpse into what life could be like for us living abroad.

We joined the website before heading home, and my husband took on the role of official house-finder. He spent time each day exploring new housesitting opportunities, branching out to search on Craigslist and other sites.

You can start for free on Craigslist by looking in the section for the area of the world you’re interested in. You can also join Facebook groups for housesitters like House Sitting World.

But if you want to seriously pursue it, and have access to a greater number of housesitting opportunities, it’s a good idea to pay the membership fee to join a site. You can create a personalised profile, including photos and video, so owners can get to know you better. You will also receive feedback, recommendations and referrals from those you’ve housesat for. This will build your “portfolio” making it easier to get future assignments.

Within a month, Fred had arranged an assignment for us from Craigslist at the retreat centre in Cabuya. Our time there was enchanting, and a new door of opportunities was opened.

I’m so grateful that we’ve discovered this “secret” world of housesitting. Now our dreams of seeing the world are coming true. This means that more frequent travel is a real possibility. n

Housesitting Takes Care of Our Housing CostsBy carol kaatz

It’s early, and the sun isn’t yet up. I walk outside and look out across the expanse that stretches to the horizon. The water sparkles in the early morning light. The first rays of the sun are bursting forth. A new day has begun in Costa Rica, and the house we’re staying in, with this incredible

view, is absolutely free.The home is on a coffee farm, nestled at the top of a hill high

above the small town of Hojancha on the Nicoya Peninsula, a large landmass that juts out into the Pacific. My husband, Fred, and I simply care for the two dogs while the owner takes a trip to Australia.

So each day is spent pursuing hobbies and interests: improving my painting and learning new skills, reading and taking days to explore the surrounding towns and beaches. You could just as easily work remotely if you had one of the many portable careers available in the world today.

For a long while we had a desire to travel overseas. But we were concerned about how to finance our trips with the limited income we received from the sale of our tanning salon business.

But then, we discovered “housesitting.” Just like that, our largest expense—accommodations for staying in a foreign country for weeks or months—could be reduced to almost zero! All we’d

“Our dreams of seeing the world are coming true.”

Villa in southern Spain: This housesitting opportunity an hour from the city of Granada could provide you with the perfect chance to experience the spanish lifestyle and to explore a traditional spanish town. It features a swimming pool and is perfect for those interested in walking and cycling. The villa is only five minutes from town where you can enjoy an array of bars and restaurants.

Bungalow on a Malaysian island: A three storey, three-bedroom, four-bathroom house in a gated area is available for four weeks. The house has three balconies, a well kitted out kitchen and is situated in the heart of historic Penang, between George Town and Batu ferringi. It is close to bars, hotels, cafés, shopping centres, temples and tourist sites as well as beaches.

Beach retreat in Costa Rica: The beaches of costa Rica offer a perfect scenic retreat for someone who loves the laidback lifestyle and this housesitting vacancy in the town of Jaco lets you enjoy it fully. The house features a pool, exotic garden and a great ocean view.

Three GreaT housesITTInG opTIons

You can live on a coffee farm in costa Rica and it won’t cost you a cent.

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D a Nang is the most liveable city in Vietnam.” I thought I was the one to come up with this

observation—I was pretty pleased about it actually—but ever since I came up with the phrase, I have heard it again and again from my Vietnamese friends, associates and expats I’ve met. Well, no arguing with that—they’re right.

Da Nang is a modern, progressive and dynamic city. Downtown has a decidedly cosmopolitan look, with a growing skyline, new shopping centres, cinemas, an ice skating rink, parks, promenades and a truly stunning beach. ©

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The Most Liveable City in Vietnam From $1,100 a Month

The bars along Da Nang’s bustling riverfront fill up every night and expats and locals socialise or take strolls along the park filled promenade.

by Wendy Justice

And you’ll enjoy one of the best climates in Vietnam. Most days are partly cloudy, warm but not too hot, and tempered by gentle ocean breezes. Depending on the season, temperatures rarely exceed 35 C or dip below 18 C.

Despite its modern appearance and a population of about 1 million people in the greater metropolitan area, Da Nang has a small-town feel to it. There’s an easy, informal ambience; there is little hustle and bustle here. Framed by mountains to the north and west, the city’s expansive parks, pedestrian walkways and a nearly deserted 30 kilometres of beach provide ample opportunity for recreation.

More than 4,000 expats have chosen

to settle in Da Nang, and the expat community is growing every year. The bars along the riverfront fill up with expats every night, and social networking groups such as Danang Hoi An Expats post information about events and activities almost every day. Making friends is easy.

The Han River runs right through the heart of the city, spanned by four architecturally stunning bridges. The bridges are lit in an ever-changing animated display of brilliant rainbow colours every night, but the highlight is the amazing Dragon Bridge, which spouts fire and steam from its huge mouth every Friday and Saturday night. Parks and promenades on both banks of the river provide perfect

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Traditional fishing boats dot the beaches that stretch 30 kilometres south from the city.

respite from the city streets. They fill up every evening as locals socialise or take strolls amongst the statue gardens and topiary, watching the stream of small boats make their way up and down the river from the South China Sea.

Steven Bruce, an expat who has lived in Da Nang since 2001, explains what attracted him to the area. “I didn’t care much for the tourist trail in Vietnam but loved Da Nang. It felt like a more genuine Vietnam then, and it still retains that charm, even though it’s becoming a more and more popular destination for tourists and expats. On top of that, the beach, the weather and the cost of living all balance to make Da Nang the perfect place for me and many others. The expat community is varied, diverse and growing rapidly. People come here from all over the world with different motivations and desires.”

Beach Living in a Modern CityAlthough Da Nang is a beautiful city,

skyscrapers and bridges are only a small part of what’s on offer here. A beachside promenade spans the length of the city, with palm-fringed pathways, 30 kilometres of soft, sandy beaches and waves that are often large enough for surfing. The warm waters of the South China Sea are inviting year-round, and lifeguards stationed along the most popular stretches of the coast keep swimmers safe. Well-maintained parks and playgrounds have been built along the promenade.

Despite having an extremely beautiful beach, Da Nang has never fallen into the “beach town” category. My Khe Beach in Da Nang, known as China Beach, is rarely busy. It’s easy to find a deserted stretch

of sand on almost any day of the year. My Khe Beach was voted one of the six most attractive beaches in the world by Forbes Magazine in 2013.

Justin Beghly has lived here for more than five years. He says, “I like the balance of living in a city without a lot of tourists but with a really nice-sized expat population and most of the western amenities that you would find in much bigger cities like Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. I also love the fact that it’s a

paradise–the beaches are fantastic! Da Nang isn’t too big or too small, but just the right size. I find Da Nang to be very liveable.”

Steven agrees. “The beach is probably the biggest draw. Couple that with a view of the mountains and there’s no better way to relax. If you’re ever feeling down, jump in the ocean or stare off into the distance at the Son Tra Peninsula and life’s troubles fade away. Then add the riverside, the cheap and delicious food, and the friendly people... It’s a pretty good place to live.”

A Comfortable Life Where You Can Rent For $460

You might think that this high standard of living would come with a high price tag, but Da Nang is quite affordable. Even with a small pension, you can live comfortably here. Expats I’ve spoken to invariably bring up the low cost of living. Many of them live

If you are from Australia, New Zealand, canada or the U.s., you need to prearrange a visa before you can enter Vietnam. you can request either a one-month or three-month visa. you can get the visa by mailing or bringing your passport to a Vietnamese embassy or consulate. It usually takes just a few days to get the passport and visa back.

Alternately, and even better, you can apply for a Visa Approval Letter through one of many online agencies. Once you have the letter, present it to the Vietnam immigration counter at the international airport when you arrive in the country, along with a recent passport photograph, and pay a Us$25 stamping fee. The fee must be paid in U.s. dollars or Vietnamese dong.

Visa and immigration laws seem to change like the weather in

The Red Tape: What You Need to KnowVietnam. For now, visa extensions, once you’re in the country, are available but expensive. most expats take a budget flight to another country for a few days (bangkok, hong kong and siem Reap are popular destinations), then return with a new visa or approval letter.

Once you’re in Vietnam, it may be possible to get a business visa with six- or 12-month validity. Prices vary widely, but you can expect to pay around $365 for a six-month business visa or $730 for a one-year visa.

If you are thinking of getting a visa extension, be sure to plan ahead—nothing happens at Immigration when a holiday is approaching, and an extension that normally takes a few days can take two or three weeks during these times.

“The beach, the weather and the cost

of living make Da Nang perfect.”

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in houses or apartments within five minutes walking distance to the beach and still manage to live well on less than $1,300 per month. Property agents, such as Central Vietnam Realty, can help you find a place you like; Danang Hoi An Expats is also a dependable choice for property listings.

Mel Potter, a 68-year-old expat who has lived in Da Nang for the past two years, says, “You can live very cheaply in Da Nang or you can live extravagantly–it’s one of the nice things about living here. You can have the lifestyle you want.”

Erin Scholnick-Lee, a retired 49-year-old expat who lives here with her husband Ed Lee, loves the low cost of living. They live in An Thuong District, a neighbourhood with a sizeable expat population that borders My Khe Beach. An Thuong is a laidback part of Da Nang that feels more like a beach town than a city. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and even a surf shop or two. “We walk to the beach, it’s just five minutes from our house. Who doesn’t want to live five minutes from the beach? We rent a one-bedroom serviced apartment in a clean, newly constructed building. Our rent is just $460 per month, and that includes laundry, Pay TV, water, WiFi and cleaning three times per week. All we pay is electricity,” says Erin.

Grace and James Bogert, a couple in their 60s, are also living the lifestyle they want. Their apartment is in Hai Chau District in the central part of the city. This district is convenient to the best shopping, attractive parks, the riverside promenade and it’s the place to go for Da Nang’s finest restaurants and nightlife. “We live in a very local neighbourhood and we can go for days without seeing another Western face,” Grace says. “We pay $650 per month for a furnished 100-square-metre apartment in the central part of the city. It has two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Additionally, we pay $40 per month for homeowner’s association fees and about $200 per month for utilities, including Pay TV, internet, water, gas and electricity.”

Gary Stapleton, a 63-year-old Sydney native, also enjoys the low cost of living. Excluding an international health insurance policy, his monthly budget is around $1,100. “I live in a three-bedroom furnished house with a kitchen, a washing machine and an air-conditioner in An Thuong District. It’s in a mainly Vietnamese area, and less than a kilometre from the beach. My rent is just $470. I pay about $90 per month for all my utilities, and the remainder is for food, clothing and entertainment.” He also finds that his expenses drop over time. “If you live here for a longer period of time, you can get very good values in Da Nang. You get to know where you can save money, but that takes time to learn. The longer I live here, the lower my cost of living becomes.”

Eat Like a LocalFood connoisseurs will enjoy sampling regional dishes that are

hard to find anywhere else in Vietnam. Familiar favourites, such as pho, the famous Vietnamese noodle soup, are available everywhere

for just $2 or $3, but Da Nang has its own distinctive regional cuisine.

The delightful mì quang is enormously popular. It’s a big bowl of thick, turmeric-infused rice noodles, combined with chunks of pork, fresh shrimp and tiny hard-boiled quail eggs, thin slivers of banana flower, fresh herbs and savoury broth accompanied by crisp sesame-studded rice crackers. Mì quang is so popular in Da Nang and the surrounding provinces that there is actually a

Vietnamese folk saying—“Thuong nhau múc bát chè xanh, Làm tô mì Quang anh xoi cho cùng”—in which a young woman demonstrates the depth of her love by inviting her man to partake in a bowl of it. It’s easy to get into a long discussion about who serves the best mì quang in Da Nang—most locals will say their wife, mother or grandmother makes the best—but in general you should stick to the small mum and dad cafés. Look for a busy shop that is clean and simple with plenty of elders eating and working there and you won’t go wrong. A big bowl of mì quang costs about $3.

Lesser known, but not to be missed, are fried seafood spring rolls, or nem hai san chiên xù. The combination of shrimp and crab meat, carrots, onions and mayonnaise, rolled into a sheet of rice paper, dipped in a panko breading and deep-fried, is reminiscent of crab rangoon but so much better, and it’s a delicacy found only on Vietnam’s central coast. The popular Quan Rin Restaurant, located on the street that parallels the east side of the river, just a five-minute walk north of the mouth of the Dragon Bridge, makes this dish perfectly, and it costs less than $4.

The cuisine is so varied here that you could eat a different dish every day for a year and still not try them all. If you are pining for Western food, you’ll have plenty of choices, too. My partner and I went to the Red Sky Bar and Restaurant, and shared a perfectly cooked, thick imported steak that could be cut with a sharp look, a huge hand-trimmed pork chop, delicious sides and several drinks, all served in a relaxed, eclectic setting for less than $45. We had plump, juicy hamburgers and rosemary fries at Burger Brothers for $15 and authentic Mexican food at Hang’s Kitchen.

Grace and James say that their favourite Vietnamese buffet, the Manna Restaurant in Hai Chau District, costs just $9.50 per person, and Gary says, “The seafood is delicious and I can go out with my girlfriend for a beautiful dinner for about $26.50 for the two of us.” Everyone agrees that splurging in Da Nang does not need to cost a lot.

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Tradition is very important in Vietnam and buddhist statues are seen throughout the city.

“Eat a different dish every

day of the year.”

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Progressively Growing In the past few years, long-time expats have noticed a significant

increase in foreigners moving to the area. Peter Frieske, a 30-year-old business owner, says, “Da Nang is definitely on the map. When we moved here five years ago, there were only one or two tall buildings and two bridges. Now you can see all the skyscrapers and four bridges. It’s a growing place.”

This growth has come as a result of an impressive amount of planning. Da Nang is one of the cleanest cities in Southeast Asia. There is very little litter, and there is an active city-sponsored recycling program, “All in Green,” helps keep the streets free from clutter. Da Nang is also a progressive place, actively welcoming foreign residents and investors. There is a visible, upwardly mobile middle class in Da Nang, and a small but growing population of wealthy Vietnamese who have chosen to settle in the city. Da Nang has the distinction of being considered one of the least corrupt cities in Vietnam, and strong, capable leadership has ensured that growth does not come at the cost of quality of life.

Steven has watched the city develop. “The powers that be are really trying to make this place a tourist destination and a more beautiful place to live and work,” Steven says. “A lot of people take pride in the growth the city has experienced and see foreign and domestic tourists and expats as a reflection of that growth. I think a lot of people find that aspect exciting.”

Da Nang does not have an efficient public bus system yet. Though taxis aren’t expensive—it costs about $4 to get from downtown to the ocean or from downtown to the big Lotte Mart for groceries—it can add up over time. Many expats rent or own a small motorbike to get around, while others choose to use a bicycle. Fortunately, Da Nang has many wide roads with multiple lanes

and comparatively light traffic, and people tend to drive a bit more courteously than in some other big cities.

Medical care in Da Nang has improved over the years, though it still isn’t up to international standards. Personally, I would not hesitate to have a minor injury or uncomplicated illness treated locally, but for anything major, I would recommend going to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City or Bangkok. Gary has used the local hospital here, however, and had a good experience. He explains, “Hoan My Hospital has an international section with English-speaking staff, but you pay top dollar for it. If I go to the regular hospital here with

a Vietnamese friend who will help translate, I get care that’s just as good for a fraction of the price.”

Grace and James agreed, saying, “Jim saw an ENT here for an ear problem, and the doctor took care of the problem in just minutes and it cost about $3.25.” Grace, James and Gary all maintain international healthcare policies, though, should the need for medical evacuation be required.

Everyone I spoke with said that dental care is very good and reasonably priced. Grace elaborated,

“We had our teeth checked here. An exam and cleaning cost about $18 each. The office was very clean and the staff spoke English.”

Many locals in Da Nang speak English and every expat who I spoke with agreed that there was little need to learn to speak Vietnamese. Learning some simple Vietnamese phrases will greatly broaden your horizons, though. Justin says “A little Vietnamese goes a long way. Vietnamese people love it if you try to speak their language and they’ll compliment you a lot if you even manage to say something poorly.”

Erin said best what so many other expats also expressed. “I didn’t realise how easy Da Nang would be. How easy it is to get around, to buy food, to go to the beach—things that make it so livable. Everything is so easy here—it’s remarkable.” n

“Da Nang is one of the cleanest

cities in Southeast Asia.”

Da Nang’s proximity to three important UNEscO World heritage sites provides plenty of opportunity for day trips, along with an added benefit—Da Nang residents have easy access to a huge selection of restaurants, spas, golf courses and other amenities that have sprung up to take advantage of the upscale tourism that these UNEscO sites bring.

The UNEscO World heritage site of Hoi an is only a 30-minute drive south of Da Nang. The unique chinese and Japanese architecture in the ancient town, which harkens back to a long-ago time when hoi An was a major trading port, has been well preserved and the town is now one of Vietnam’s top tourist destinations.

The My Son Sanctuary, about two hours southwest of Da Nang, was the religious and cultural centre of the ancient champa kingdom between the 4th and 13th centuries. A series of atmospheric temple and tower ruins still exist here. The drive to the ruins takes you past pastoral scenes of small villages, rice paddies and tranquil countryside.

The land west of Da Nang rises into the central highlands and beyond that, into Laos. One attraction in this mountainous area is the Ba Na Hill resort, located 37 kilometres west of Da Nang. ba Na

Five awesome Day trips From Da Nangis a quirky hill resort that offers something for everybody. Originally a hill station established in 1919 by the French, this cool weather park has been developed into a French-themed resort, hotel and spa, complete with castles, gardens and French restaurants. There is also an amusement park, an alpine slide and a waterfall, as well as the Linh Ung Pagoda, which features a 27-metre high buddha statue. The resort is accessed by the ba Na cable car. At just over five-and-a-half kilometres long, it holds the world record for being the longest non-stop, single-track cable car.

Empty, winding roads and spectacular views make the central highlands near Da Nang a very popular destination for motorcycle touring, scouting out little-visited waterfalls such as those at Suoi Mo Park, and for those seeking cultural experiences in isolated hill-tribe villages.

my favourite day trip from Da Nang is to hop on a motorbike and ride to the summit of Hai Van Pass (Ocean cloud Pass), named for the mists that cling to the mountains as they rise from the sea. The nearly empty road climbs 21 kilometres to an elevation of 495 metres. On a clear day, you’ll be treated to one of the best views in all of Vietnam: endless mountains and an expansive coastline far below.

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MARKET WATCH

mark a high point in the crisis. She’s not the story: A leftist being pushed out is not going to change much. The real story is the peaking of the negative sentiment in Brazil.

Far from being a reason to avoid Brazil, it allows us another opportunity to buy well here…and to take advantage of some special-situation deals.

Northeast Brazil’s Big Growth StoryBrazil is in economic crisis right now—

or at least it is in the south of the country.Brazil’s southern region is the country’s

most prosperous. In the good times, the south’s economy had become frothy. Everything rose in value too much, too fast. Spending, real estate values—everything rose to unsustainable levels. They were exposed when global commodity prices tanked and when sentiment turned negative toward Brazil.

The south built itself up as the manufacturing hub of Brazil. The area grew massively in wealth—little of which was funnelled to the north.

The poor northeast had been left behind. Its infrastructure was underdeveloped, education levels were low

To an outsider, it looks like a calamity in Brazil. One million protestors calling for the president’s impeachment…corruption

scandals…a financial crisis.Foreign investors are nervous. And it

looks like protestors have gotten their wish. The wheels are in motion. The country’s congress and senate have both voted to impeach president Dilma Rousseff. She’s accused of illegally manipulating finances in order to hide a growing public deficit in a bid to be re-elected in 2014. Last month, she was suspended from duties for 180 days. She’s still president in name only; her duties are being carried out by her vice president, Michel Temer.

In 2009/2010, Brazil was super trendy. While the rest of the world was in crisis, Brazil was an investor’s darling. It had positive trends in food, energy and demographics. At that time, commodity prices were high. The media was interested for other reasons, too: Brazil was going to host the Soccer World Cup and later the Olympics. News headlines said that Brazil, the perpetual country of the future, was about to arrive.

But then commodity prices tanked. It really highlighted the fragility of Brazil’s economy. When the media was being positive about Brazil, they were ignoring the problems that have always been there—things like excessive bureaucracy and red tape. Now that things are bad, they’re solely paying attention to those negatives and ignoring the upsides and the massive potential.

The truth is Brazil is somewhere in the middle of a medium-term upward trend. The northeast, where I have found opportunity, is earlier in the trend. And has the most upside.

In the short-term, the outlook for Brazil is challenging. But the medium- to long-term trend for Brazil is strong. The right real estate at the right pricing is still a buy. I believe the impeachment of Dilma will

A Tale of Two Brazils—Why It’s the Best of Times For the Northeast CoastBy Ronan McMahon

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and people struggled to make ends meet.Young people had to move south to get

a job…to send money back home to help support their families. The knock on effect for the south was problematic. It created a huge social burden on the south in terms of housing and social infrastructure.

The government was forced to act. And, in the last couple of decades, the north’s story has changed—particularly in the northeast.

The government was embarrassed by how low development indices were. Policies were put in place to kick-start the region—including giving tax cuts to investors to set up shop in the northeast to help development, and developing a free-trade zone near the port of Pecem.

The tide turned. Tourism grew as new infrastructure arrived. The south now had a huge middle class who were starting to take flights for the first time in their lives. Domestic tourists started to come north to the beaches in and around Fortaleza.

Manufacturers started to take advantage of low wage costs (relative to the south), and the northeast’s strategic location, and came to set up shop.

Fortaleza is a popular tourist destination and plays an important part in the Brazilian economy.

JULY 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 23

Some of the country’s main shipping routes—including to North America—are here. Major new infrastructure projects were created and focused on the hub of Fortaleza, including new canals, railways, new roads and airports. All of those factors combined meant massive growth was possible.

The northeast has been developing at breakneck speed: It’s been growing, on average, at four times the speed of the richer states in the south.

Growth has been a big driver for social mobility. More northeast Brazilians are middle class than ever before. Between 2002 and 2012, the northeast’s middle class grew from 22% of the population to 42%.

That middle-class trend is an angle I’ve recommended to play in the past eight years. By buying the places that the new middle class will want to rent or own, those who acted, based on my recommendations, have done well. And that’s before we get into the tourism angle…

Tourism on the UpFortaleza is Brazil’s most popular

domestic tourism destination. Its beaches are less packed than those of Rio, in the south, and the pace of the city is more relaxed and friendly.

Fortaleza’s importance to Northeast Brazil’s economy is huge. Tourism and exports are its two biggest industries. In the 15 years leading up to 2013, Fortaleza’s tourism numbers quadrupled to 2.8 million a year. In just the Carnival period this year (February 5–11), tourism spending increased by more than 9% on the same period in 2015.

It’s largely due to the fall in the value of the real. (Take note: Your dollars stretch much further in Brazil right now.)

That had a twofold effect: First, the southern domestic tourists, who might in years past have travelled to the U.S. or to Europe, saw the value of the real fall against the U.S. dollar and the euro. It was simply uneconomic for them to take an overseas holiday…so they decided to stay in-country instead.

It worked in reverse, too. Foreign tourists—particularly those from Europe—jumped at the

chance to take advantage of the weakened real. Fortaleza was their destination of choice.

Fortaleza will continue to be important to the economy of Northeast Brazil. It’s firmly established as one of the country’s premier holiday destinations. And it’s there where we have our first opportunity to buy well right now…

Fortaleza’s “Dead Chicken” BuysThe term “dead chicken” may not

sound particularly appealing. But in Brazil, a “dead chicken” is definitely something you want. As my contact on the ground explains, a “dead chicken is a meal you don’t have to chase”.

My contact is busy buying “dead chickens” for himself—as well as identifying opportunities for members of my Real Estate Trend Alert. I speak with him most weeks. He almost invariably bursts onto the call with a tale of his latest exploits… A particularly strong deal goes like: “This chicken was dead, cooked and came with fries.”

The money is still there. Most folks are just in a state of investment paralysis...like a rabbit in the headlights. They’re watching the news reports out of the south…and it’s making them nervous about the economy and about job security. So, they’re keeping their money in the bank.

When this state of paralysis takes hold, where there are no buyers, sellers won’t get a bite—even for seriously undervalued

deals. People in Northeast Brazil right now who want to sell fast will sell for 25% below market value. Selling at market value today takes six to eight months—no good for a seller who needs a quick sale. So, they’re forced to drop their prices even lower. That creates an opportunity where we can buy distressed real estate at an even deeper discount.

Let me give you an example… A spacious and luxurious apartment on Fortaleza’s prime boardwalk—spread out over more

than 176 square metres and taking up the whole of the 17th floor. These stunning views would have set you back 3 million reais or $1.17 million before the crisis.

The owner listed for 1.9 million reais. He needed to sell fast. He

got fast cash but only 950,000 reais. That’s not much more than $371,630 for a prime apartment in a world-class city in the middle of a medium-term upswing.

These “dead chicken” opportunities are increasing in frequency in light of the recent political crisis. They can be a killer deal when you find them. The long-term growth trajectory for Fortaleza is still strong. In the short-term there’ll be more “dead chicken” opportunities before things rebound. But you have to be ready to act quickly to get in on the best deals.

The economy of Brazil will come back to its former glory. When it does, our “dead chicken” buys will rise in value. The whole of northeast Brazil is where you can

take advantage of this Brazilian crisis to tap into the growing opportunities. The moment to play this crisis is now—so we’ll be sitting pretty when the market rebounds. n

Editor’s Note: Find your own “dead chicken” in Brazil with the help of Ronan McMahon’s Real Estate Trend Alert. Subscribe today and find out more about opportunities in Brazil and around the world. Ronan is executive director of Pathfinder, International Living’s preferred real estate advertiser.

“ Buy distressed real estate at an even deeper discount.”

24 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

After almost five years of a bear (falling) market, gold is rising again. At a price of $1,707 per troy ounce (used to measure precious

metals) at time of writing, it’s up 20% from the low of $1,417 reached in December 2015.

This big reversal means it looks like gold has finally bottomed out. And a new bull (rising) market has started.

With gold, market forces have coalesced to form a fantastic, medium- to long-term play. The Chinese and Indians love gold, and other emerging markets are also on the case. A bet on gold is a bet on the long-term growth of emerging markets, and on their having greater wealth and power over time.

Sooner or later, this growing demand from emerging markets is going to run up against constrained supply.

Gold has captured the imaginations of humans for thousands of years. People around the world used to use gold as money, or money could be redeemed for gold. But those days are long gone. And I don’t see them returning.

But that isn’t the end for gold. If we didn’t still use the stuff today, its value wouldn’t be rising. But we do. Well over half of gold goes into jewellery: wristwatches, rings, necklaces, earrings and so on. Gold has value mostly because it’s used to adorn our bodies. It’s a very visible sign of wealth.

Human beings’ desire to drape themselves in gold won’t go away any time soon. And, at its very root, physical investment gold only keeps its value because it’s a raw material for this purpose.

This is why I see gold as a physical asset whose ultimate value comes from its consumer demand. Gold is a raw material…and ultimately a consumer good of the highest quality.

The chart (top right) breaks down gold demand in 2015, using data from the World Gold Council.

Consumer goods—jewellery and technology (mainly electronics)—

accounted for two-thirds of demand. Investment by the private sector into bars and coins was 21%. The remainder was bought by central banks. The vast majority of that went to China and Russia.

But this doesn’t tell the whole story. To really drill into the opportunity in gold, we need to look at where the combined consumer demand comes from. Here we’ll get an insight into gold’s prospects for the future.

As you can see in the chart, most gold and gold products are bought in China and India. Combined, these two countries made up 56% of global consumer demand in 2015.

The key here is that China and India are both vast countries with relatively fast growth trajectories. And the Chinese and Indians have deeply ingrained cultural affinities with gold.

Of course, each country will go through the usual economic boom-and-bust cycles. But overall their economies will continue to expand. Their combined 2.7 billion inhabitants will get wealthier over time. And their insatiable demand for gold will carry on growing.

INVESTMENT

Studies have shown a very close link in both China and India between rapidly rising GDP per capita and rapidly rising, per-capita gold purchases over the past 15 years. There is no reason for that trend to stop.

Consider this: It’s estimated that all the gold ever mined in the world throughout history is about 184,000 metric tons, or 5.9 billion troy ounces.

If you lumped it all together in one place, it would make a cube with sides almost 23 metres long. That’s less than the length of a tennis court. About 18% of that “cube” is owned by central banks, leaving 151,000 tons in private hands.

Put another way, if you divided up all the privately owned gold among the world’s population of 7.4 billion, we’d each get just 0.65 ounces, worth $1,115. Gold is pretty scarce stuff. n

Editor’s Note: Rob Marstrand is the founder of OfWealth and has spent 15 years working in investment banking in London, Zurich, Hong Kong and many countries throughout Asia looking for the best investment opportunities.

He has lived in Buenos Aires, Argentina, for the past seven years, which is the perfect place to learn about financial crisis.

Consumer Jewellery: The Gold Market No One’s Talking AboutBy Rob Marstrand

Gold Usage in 2015

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TechnologyPrivate investmentCentral banks

Silver: Gold’s Speculative Cousin

Silver is a very different animal from gold. Both of them were once used as money, in the form of coins. But nowadays they each have other uses.

Over half of silver is used in industry, especially electronics. Around 20% goes into jewellery. Only 6% goes into silverware.

Investment demand—coins, bars and ETFs—has fluctuated between 12% and 28% over the past decade. Unlike gold, silver isn’t bought by central banks, at least not in large enough amounts to matter.

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JULY 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 25

ingrained entrepreneurial spirit.

When the Soviet regime collapsed, Poland regained its sovereignty. It was sink-or-swim time, and for a while Poland looked like the Titanic. The currency was in free fall, the centrally planned economy in shambles. The output of Polish industry had contracted so sharply that by 1991, Poland was producing at levels equal to the mid-1970s. Hyperinflation across much of that first decade of post-communist freedom ran between 15% and nearly 800%, with some months surpassing 1,000%.

From that rose one of Europe’s most dynamic economies—the Third Polish Republic.

It’s clear that entrepreneurship has taken root again in Poland. In a 2012 survey by German market-research firm GfK, 84% of Poles between the ages 15 and 29 said they look favourably upon entrepreneurship, among the highest readings in Europe. Of those, 62% imagine the day they will run their own business.

The World Bank has singled out Poland as the most improved country in the world when it comes to launching a small- or medium-sized business.

Perhaps a better indication that Poland has changed fundamentally lies in the fact that today Poland is the country to which 7,000 Europeans officially—and thousands more unofficially—flock to every year in search of better jobs, safer living conditions and a better quality of life than they have back in their home countries. It’s the ultimate manifestation of Poland’s rebirth:

A former communist country is now so advanced socially and economically that it’s an appealing alternative to Western Europeans.

Indeed, consider that today in Warsaw the per capita GDP (on a purchasing-power parity basis) now exceeds Vienna and Austria. City-dwelling Poles—so poor just a generation ago that they survived on ration cards—are living at a standard above several Western European cities.

On average, Poles are earning about $21,000 a year, as of 2014 data, a nearly sevenfold leap in the 25 years since communism ended. And, remarkably, the Polish middle class today amounts to between 20% and 40% of the population.

For international investors, Poland is one to watch, a place where there could be opportunities in figuring out the growth of Polish consumerism. n

Editor’s Note: As a lifelong world traveller, Jeff Opdyke has been investing directly in the international markets since 1995, making him one of the true pioneers of foreign trading. He is Investment Director for The Sovereign Society and the editor of Total Wealth Insider, The Sovereign Society’s exclusive monthly research newsletter. ©

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The main market square of kraków has become a cultural hub and bustles with life.

Poland’s Entrepreneurship —The Envy of All EuropeBy Jeff Opdyke

I am not, by trade, a food critic. However, by dint of my global travels, and the habits of the bankers and such that I hang out with, I do routinely end up in some of the world’s better eateries. So it was, then, that as the cold breath of a newborn winter welcomed me to Warsaw in

early November, I once again found myself emerged in gastronomic luxury at Poland’s first and (so far) only Michelin-starred restaurant—Atelier Amaro.

I’d been invited by the founder and owner, Modest Amaro. Through the lens of food I wanted to talk about a Polish middle class that has progressed so far in the short time since communism’s fall that it can now comfortably support high-end dining at a 30-seat restaurant such as his.

Modest started with zero formal training in culinary arts, just as Poland started with nothing but a shattered past when communism collapsed. As did nearly 700,000 Poles, Modest fled his tattered homeland in the ‘90s for a new start in the U.K., where he learned kitchen work under the tutelage of a well-regarded Italian chef. As he progressed through the years, Poland was progressing, too—rising from an impoverished, derelict, communist puppet state to a prosperous nation approaching Western European status.

Today, Modest Amaro has a Michelin star and is the envy of upstart restaurateurs all over his homeland…while his homeland’s economy is, itself, the envy of the Continent.

And all of that happened in less than one generation.

Poland was long a piñata in European geopolitics at which just about all the powers of the day took a swing. But for 20 years between the wars, the Second Polish Republic was free. And what a prosperous republic it was. Illiteracy had fallen by more than half, the number of schools had increased 15 times, and Warsaw, Kraków and other Polish cities had become cultural hubs within Europe and home to widely acclaimed universities. The country was Europe’s third-largest producer of crude oil, and the world’s third-largest producer of zinc. It had laid hundreds of miles of roads and built more than 6,700 hydroelectric power plants. And though now an antiquated measure of personal wealth, Poland’s farm culture of that era ranked fifth among world powers in horses and pigs, and eighth in cattle.

For half a century, the Poles were lost inside the most ignorant political economy man has ever devised: communism and the belief that government can force equality upon society. At that point in Poland’s consumer history, “rows and rows of toilet paper, vinegar and sugar were what you saw in all the shops,” Piotr Bartkiewicz told me as we settled into a long discussion in a Warsaw coffee house.

Piotr is an economist at Mbank, one of Poland’s fastest-growing banks. As recently as a generation ago, he tells me, Poland had no middle class. But even in the darkest moment of communism, Poles never forgot their prosperous past and what got them there: an

“Poland is the most improved country in the world.”

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COLLECTIBLES

premium collectibles. A one-sixth scale Darth Vader costing around $430 may not be an ideal toy nowadays, but it could turn out to be a worthwhile investment.

And it’s not just Star Wars merchandise you should look out for. Action figures, commemorative books, costumes, weapons

and video games are often discarded when the next trend comes along. Twentieth century favourites like G.I. Joe, Indiana Jones, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Star Trek, Transformers and Buzz Lightyear were relegated to the back of the closet when the studios created the next

big Christmas frenzy.What did kids play with before

Hollywood got on the bandwagon? Simple tin toys like pull-along puppies, wind-up monkeys climbing palm trees and cars—lots of cars. The first die-cast toy car was a 1908 Dowst Brothers scaled version of Henry Ford’s Model T, which sold over 50 million ©

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Kids Play, Grown-Up Profit: The Booming Market in Collectible Toys

Parents attempting to clean their kids’ bedrooms know all too well the temptation to throw old toys out with the trash. I’m here to tell

you to resist that impulse. That piece of junk that cost a few

pennies back in the ’80s could go for $3,360 or more today, even without the packaging. Mums: Check before you chuck! The market for collectible toys is booming, with old examples selling for many times the price you bought them for way back when.

Let’s start a long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away. Star Wars not only made cinema history, it also brought with it a generation of toys that would captivate children around the world. Over the years, millions of little plastic replicas have been made and some of these are fetching top dollar on the collectibles market today.

When The Force Awakens hit the big screen last year, a new generation of Star Wars fans hit the shops. Spin-off movie merchandise is designed to fire young imaginations. But adults with disposable income should be buying up factory-sealed models now to enjoy high yields in the future.

When it comes to toys, the buzzwords for clever collecting are “limited edition.” These can be researched online or in specialist stores. For instance, the only known example of a graded (that is, neither factory second nor inferior) 1978 Star Wars vinyl-caped Jawa sold on eBay in 2015 for $71,200. Its rarity was due to manufacturer Palitoy’s decision to replace the vinyl cape with a cloth one shortly after launching it.

Foreign distributors like Hot Toys Japan and Toy Sapiens have low production runs that can soon become

By Wendy salisbury

copies. The company rebranded as Tootsie Toy, and the U.K. followed with Meccano’s Dinky Toys and Hornby Train. In 1994, a red and green delivery van with the livery W. E. Boyce, a 1930s London cycle shop, sold for $37,600. It would have cost 13 cents new.

Unboxed items in good condition are still affordable and tradable. A 1932 white metal Maybach Zeppelin touring car in 1/43 scale is on eBay for $161.10. A 1930s George Levy open tourer cabriolet costs around $2,000. Valuable Dinky Toys to look out for include fire brigade sets and promotional trucks or vans.

The most collectible toys may have been played with beyond their breaking point, so locating models in good condition is a challenge. But you can still pick up a mint condition battery-operated Batmobile or a 1960s Beverly Hillbillies lunchbox at a garage sale for a few dollars and sell it on for over $130.

Cuddly bears, especially those from the famous Steiff company, are surprisingly sought after. Founded in Germany in 1902, Steiff produced the world’s first

“Star Wars toys are fetching top dollar on today’s

market.”

Old toys can grow in value after falling out of fashion with kids long ago.

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toy bears with jointed limbs. Covered in a cosy and dyeable mohair plush, they were first presented in 1905 at the Leipzig Toy Fair. A U.S. businessman placed an order for 3,000 and named them Teddy bears, after then-President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt.

The trademark Steiff “Button-in-Ear” was developed to discourage cheap imitators and assure buyers they were getting the real deal. The founder, Margarete Steiff, won Grands Prix at several World Exhibitions, captivating the crowds with her rag dolls and soft toys.

Steiff made the only known multi-coloured Harlequin bear in 1925. It was acquired at auction in 1999 for around $107,470 by the collector and hedge fund manager Paul Greenwood, who was later convicted of fraud and forced to sell off his entire teddy bear collection for a total of $2.35 million.

Steiff even made a Titanic “Mourning” Bear. Following the sinking of the ill-fated ship in 1912, the company produced 600 teddies in black mohair to commemorate the tragic event. In 2000, one of them, having spent its life stored away, was sold for $182,680. It is currently on show at the

Puppenhaus Museum in Basel, Switzerland.The Holy Grail (growl?) of designer

bears is the Steiff/Louis Vuitton collaboration. She wears a hat and coat and carries a miniature LV suitcase. Sold at a Monaco charity auction for $2.82 million to renowned Korean collector Jessie Kim, she now resides at the Teddy Bear Museum in Jeju, Korea. Luckily, you don’t need that kind of cash to get in on this act. A variety of antique Steiff bears, with good potential for appreciation, can be found on eBay from around $335.

Fashion dolls are also shrewd investments. The U.S. company Kenner (since taken over by toy giant Hasbro) produced the original Star Wars action figures before releasing the Blythe doll in 1972 for one year only. Inspired by the doe-eyed Keane paintings of the time, the doll’s eye colour could be changed by pulling a string. They never caught on—until 30 years later, when they became collectible. An original would have cost you $33. Now they trade hands for $2,685.

And what girl doesn’t remember her first Barbie? Since Mattel discontinued the 1959 costumes, Easter Parade, Gay Parisienne and Roman Holiday, they’ve all become collectible. The latter is available on Rubylane.com for $2,410. Another

great resource is Fashion Doll Guide.

There are a few other websites worth checking out, too. Justcollecting.com/toys is a great source of information on collectible toys. Vintagetoysauctions.com

is an ideal site to pick up vintage toys for a bargain—some of the newly listed items are on sale for less than a dollar. And the Big Bad Toy Store allows you to shop by film or company, with plenty of choice collectibles on offer.

Don’t forget to look around the house, either. My first port of call in my search for toy collectibles would be my grandchildren’s toy boxes. I bought them half that stuff…which must mean I still “own” it. And isn’t possession nine-tenths of the law? n

I f you’re looking to invest in some furniture, mass production is not the answer.

furnishing your house from Harvey Norman, IkEA, freedom or Amart may make economic sense. But it’s hardly inspirational. Where is the fine cabinet work, the hand-etched silver, the bevelled mirrors and the lovingly laboured french polish? If you ask me, most new stuff is just blocks of veneered fibreboard worth no more than firewood.

clever creators of “contemporary conceptual pieces” abound—just Google them. But is a pink-painted, three-legged milking stool really worth $440 just because it came from a trendy workshop? And will this be an antique of tomorrow? I doubt it.

Let’s not forget the sentimental value. Antique furniture is an important link to the past, a throwback to a time before our

Own a Piece of History With Antique FurnitureYou can pick up great pieces from thrift

stores and street markets. fine second-hand furniture abounds at garage sales, hospice shops and on Gumtree and eBay. A discarded chair or sofa may have been dumped on the pavement, yours for free! Turn it over and check for tags. If it says Harvey Norman, bad luck. But it could be a 1970s piece by Thayer coggin, a design classic worth at least $1,300.

A Victorian chaise longue at $130 may need re-polishing and re-upholstering. But a new one would cost $1,000 and up. Look past the faded, floral fabric and imagine it covered in black velvet, with the frame painted silver. You could probably do this yourself.

so next time you’re shopping for something to sit on, spare a thought for the craftsmen and choose something old, something with splendour and a soul. Honour the artisan…and buy a piece of history.

own. It has beauty, rarity and aesthetic value. And this can often lead its actual value to increase over time, should you ever decide to sell.

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also shrewd investments.”

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Income overseas

David says, “There are many restaurants of every conceivable class and creed and it is common to enjoy a delicious seafood meal for around $10, including a few beers!”

“One favourite is Wonderland Seafood in Kuah, which has a long menu of delicious, fresh seafood, which can cost as little as MR150 ($50) for a party of four including drinks. This place is always packed. There are also plenty of excellent Chinese outlets selling delicious seafood Char Kway Teoh (fried flat rice noodles) for only MR5 or MR6 ($1.50 to $2).

“Being a duty-free island, a case of beer is MR41 (about $13). Fuel is also cheap, at about a third of Australian prices,” says David.

When the couple considered where to set up their yacht charter business five years ago, Langkawi seemed like the obvious choice.

“We’ve had wonderful times sailing around the Langkawi archipelago, as well as the Thai islands of Koh Lipe, Phuket, Phi Phi Island and Phang Nga Bay”, says Gudrun. “We’ve met interesting people from all over the world in one of the most beautiful areas on this planet.”

A chance meeting at a charity auction and dinner, after only six months living in Langkawi, led to the couple’s purchase of Sunset Valley Resort. With its unique setting, the resort was an opportunity they couldn’t pass up. David says the resort cost many times less than what you would expect to pay in Australia for something similar.

Having a boat, let alone a resort, can be hard work. As Gudrun says, a boat like their 15-metre sailing catamaran needs work on it every day. But an added benefit of having a business in Malaysia is that local wages are

Combining Passion and Business in the Tropics

We love the climate, the friendly, easy-going people, the food and the relatively unregulated way of life,” says Sydney native David

Bradley of his new life—with his German wife Gudrun—in Langkawi, Malaysia.

“All major cities in Australia are now very regulated, with freedom diminishing. Living in Langkawi is completely different in so many ways. There is much less pressure and hurry. There is more time to spend with friends or simply smell the roses and enjoy the bountiful wildlife,” says David.

“You probably think we are crazy, running a yacht charter business and taking over a resort at ages 55 and 69 (three years ago now),” says Gudrun. “And yes, you would be absolutely right, that’s how I feel too: Crazy…and loving it!”

A resort of wooden, traditional Malaysian village houses nestles on tropical Langkawi, an archipelago of 99 islands on Malaysia’s west coast. This is Sunset Valley Resort, home and business of David and Gudrun. They also run a luxury yacht charter business, Edu-Cat. Langkawi is the perfect place for the couple to combine their love of nature and the sea with an income and fantastic lifestyle.

“We enjoy every day,” adds David. “We love both businesses and projects, and no two days are the same. We love being on the water, we love the peace and serenity of the resort, the view over the rice paddies and the gorgeous sunsets.”

David and Gudrun both worked as company executives internationally. “We loved our time in Malaysia, me in the mid-1980s and Gudrun in the late 1990s”, says David, “So when we decided to move overseas from Australia, Malaysia, being in between Germany and Australia, was an easy choice. English is widely spoken and the cost of living is very attractive.”

The couple estimate the cost of living at about 25% of that in Australia, which means they can afford to eat out often, travel and socialise with friends.

By Belinda kerslake

“The cost of living is about 25% of that

in Australia.”

Langkawi is known as the “Jewel of kedah” due to its clear waters and pristine beaches.

very affordable for business owners, starting from MR15 ($5) per hour or MR1,000 ($330) per month.

“We are extremely fortunate to employ a lovely and very capable couple to help us run Sunset Valley and we are also able to employ qualified skippers, cooks and crew for the multi-day charters we secure for Edu-Cat,” says David.

“This enables us to focus on the bigger picture and take on meaningful community service projects through our charter membership of the local Rotary club.”

Rotary Club membership on Langkawi is a third of the cost of membership in Sydney, at MR360 ($120) for six months. With a mix of locals and expats involved, it’s a great way to make business connections and friends.

David and Gudrun have found it very easy to fit into the expat community, not only through the Rotary Club, but also through expat-specific groups like The Expat Group which runs regular meet ups, wine nights and other events for expats in Langkawi.

David and Gudrun moved under the Malaysia My Second Home visa program, which gives applicants an initial visa for 10 years. They need to prove a monthly income from outside Malaysia of MR10,000 (approximately $3,300), which can include a pension. For those intending to start a business, there are restrictions on the hours you can work earning with this visa.

“The process is easy as long as you meet the criteria,” says David, “We used the services of The Expat Group to help us with our visas and it was a delight to do business with them.”

David and Gudrun couldn’t be happier with their move, “One of the very real joys of our ‘retirement’ in paradise is that no two days are ever the same. Our businesses and lifestyle are so closely intertwined that they are what we are and what we do. We would not want it any other way!” n

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Volunteering and a Simple Life in Laos

In Laos, I fell for many things around me—the way the people take patient care of their children, the smiles that are so readily there to break out at any opportunity,

the cultural and spiritual practices that are infused in daily life, the belief that you don’t embarrass anyone, the dancing that happens at parties, the sharing of food, the importance of relationships with others, the sense of humour, my Lao name,” says Brisbanite Tricia Feeney.

And what is her Lao name? In a display of subtle Lao humour, it’s Wandii, which means “Good Day” in Lao. What would be more appropriate than naming an Australian “G’day”. Tricia is a teacher by trade, a traveller by instinct and a lover of the Lao culture and people by good fortune.

“I love the gentleness of the Lao culture, the beauty of the architecture in the UNESCO Heritage areas of Luang Prabang, the natural beauty of the rivers and forests,” she says. She first came to Laos from Brisbane to work in a volunteer program in 2008 and soon grew enthusiastic for this fascinating culture.

Despite having a full-time position as a Specialist Teacher in Learning Support in Brisbane and never having lived overseas, she says, “The place and the people and the work really got under my skin. I thought about it every day when I got home from my short volunteering stint and what I could do if I was managing the program.” When the position of manager became available she returned to Laos to head the project.

After seven years and at the age of 59, she left the volunteer program and now teaches at an International School, in Luang Prabang. “I love getting back to the hands-on roots of teaching—my first love. The hours of a regular school, rather than the constant demands of a volunteer project, give me an opportunity to enjoy living in a World Heritage-listed town with all that it has to offer.”

The school also provides her with a 12-month, multi-entry, working visa. “It’s so

nice to have it all arranged and paid for by the school rather than having to deal with it myself as part of the volunteer program.”

Luang Prabang has a tourist heart that is a blend of Colonial French architecture and up-market, yet affordable, restaurants and cafés. “I often have a simple breakfast of coffee and pastries at The Big Tree Café. It’s hard to beat the $5.40 price tag and the café is also the gallery of a very talented expat photographer.” Having your morning coffee surrounded by a multitude of accents and languages, both Western and Asian is the norm. In fact, it is not unusual to have the wait staff throw out the occasional English word with a distinctive Aussie twang that can only come from them having been a student of Tricia’s.

The recent extension of the airport and a new terminal has made Luang Prabang an even more attractive destination and this is leading to more facilities and opportunities. The opening of new restaurants and guesthouses has increased the need for English-speaking staff and led to a rise in the number of English language schools.

For Tricia it is the affordable living that is one of the big attractions of Luang Prabang. “I rent a two-bedroom house for $460 per month. Electricity costs me approximately $13.50 a month and water consumption $5.40 a month. I have a large garden and some fruit trees and I’m only two kilometres from the centre of town. Local market shopping, i.e. fruit and vegetables, is only $16 a week, foreign food shopping (i.e. bread, dairy, canned goods, refrigerated meat, etc.) is another $27 a week and entertainment/dining out is only about $27 a week.” There are no movie theatres in Luang Prabang and Lao television is not geared towards expats so movies or TV shows that can be shared among friends are popular. Bringing back a bag full of DVD’s from a trip to Thailand can make you very well-liked.

“I have a few good friends and many acquaintances that I’ve acquired over the years simply from networking. There really aren’t any expat clubs so you just meet new people through your own circle of friends. I don’t go out to the bars often and regularly cook and eat at home. It’s nice to go in to town on the weekends for breakfast and I often will run into people I know—expats and locals.”

The ease of getting around also make Luang Prabang perfect for someone who just wants to enjoy the natural setting. “Walking down town is beautiful in the mornings. I got interested in orchids as they’re abundant here. Luang Prabang is aesthetically beautiful with many temples, two rivers and surrounding mountains. Riding around on a bicycle is so easy and relaxing.”

Tricia takes two trips a year. One back to Australia to see family and friends and to check on the property that she is renting out through a real estate agent. Another to where her daughter is currently living and working—itchy feet seems to run in the family. Bangkok is only two hours by air from Luang Prabang, with multiple flights daily, and from there it’s easy to get a flight anywhere in the world. Sometimes, when the heat and humidity of the rainy season become too much, a short trip to the beaches of Thailand becomes a necessity.

Some may see what she’s done as a selfless act. But that’s not how Tricia sees it herself. “To contribute to a developing society through education, to have a deep purpose in my life, to be stimulated by an adventurous challenge, to matter in the lives of others. Sounds quite selfish to me!” n

By Greg Wright

Enjoy the simple life in Luang Prabang.

“The city is perfect for someone who enjoys

the natural setting.”

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require quite a bit of walking. Fortunately, Helsinki is a great city for walking. It is mostly flat and the streets and footpaths are wide and uncrowded. The friendly, English-speaking people make this city even more tourist-friendly.

Don’t miss the memorial to composer Jean Sibelius, who wrote Finlandia, just outside the city in the Toolo district. It consists of 600 steel pipes welded together in a wave formation, said to represent the Finnish birch forests that inspired Sibelius’ music. A bust of the composer was added to appease those who thought it too abstract.

Another required stop is the Temppeliaukion Kirkko, or stone church. Carved from solid rock, light enters the church through skylights surrounding the copper-lined dome. The best time to visit is when the organ is being played or a choir is practising–the

acoustics are excellent and the whole space fills with the sound of music.

One of my favourite places is the Seurasaari Open-Air Museum, which is on an island just outside the city centre. Wander among the cottages, farm houses, churches and workrooms gathered from all over Finland. They are in a peaceful forest setting with pretty gardens and friendly squirrels looking for a free feed. To get there, catch the number 24 bus outside Sokos Deparment store in the main street, Mannerheimintie.

The swimming hall at 21b Yrjonkatu is the oldest public swimming hall in Finland. For €5.50 ($8.40) you can bathe in the gorgeous Roman-style pool, naked if you wish (there are separate times for men and women). It is closed in the summer because there are many outdoor pools open.

While away some time at the harbour, where you will often find craft markets or festivals in full swing.

Take a ferry to Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Once an island fortress, the old bunkers and cannons from a more dangerous past are still there to explore.

Great food is one of the drawcards of Helsinki, especially if you love seafood. I can’t get enough of the delicious salmon, Arctic char and herrings. There is also a good selection of international cuisine. The food is fresh, seasonal and wonderfully presented. Inventive Helsinki chefs take pride in serving the best Finnish produce in traditional ways, but with a modern twist.

My favourite places include Nokka, Fish Market, Juuri, Saaga and Lappi (for food from Lapland), and Kappeli, on Esplanadi, with its bistro, bar and restaurant where meals have been served for 140 years. For lunch I often go to the Kauppatori (covered market) beside the harbour for salmon soup for around €10 ($15). n

Finland’s capital is full of art nouveau buildings just like The central Railway station opened in 1919.

W hen I was young my Finnish grandfather regularly told me Finland was the most beautiful country in the world, the men the most hardworking and handsome, the women the most beautiful…

Helsinki must have been a hive of activity when he sailed out of the harbour in 1912. The city had been made the capital 100 years earlier when Finland was Grand Duchy under Russian rule.

Helsinki has an outstanding collection of Art Nouveau buildings, known in Finland as Jungend. The entire city is filled with stunning houses with intricately carved wooden doorways, whimsical roof lines, animals and characters from Nordic folk tales crawling on the facades…a surprise at every turn. Go for a walk in the Katajanokka neighbourhood beside the harbour. This area is entirely filled with this style of building. It will keep you enthralled for hours.

Many of the buildings in this style were designed by Eliel Saarinen. His most famous work is the magnificent Helsinki Central Railway Station. I think it is one of the most spectacular in Europe. I never miss a chance to walk through and gaze up in awe at the enormous space and beautiful design. It’s built in Finnish granite with a stunning clock tower and two gigantic strong men holding spherical lamps on either side of the front entrance.

The warmer months are the best seasons to visit Helsinki. Winter can be very cold, with the average temperature being around -5 C. In mid-winter there are about six hours of sunlight, which can be a bit restrictive. In summer the sun rises early and illuminates the city until midnight, and the Finns are out and about enjoying every minute.

In summer I stay out in the twilight until almost midnight. There are people everywhere having picnics and meeting friends in the many parks, and there is always something fun and lively happening in Market Square beside the harbour. During my last summer visit there was a collection of vintage cars on display, and salmon being grilled in little tents.

If grilled salmon doesn’t whet your appetite, take yourself to one of the many excellent cafés. A favourite is Fazer on Kluuvikatu in the centre of town. They do an excellent buffet breakfast with delicious Finnish porridge, rye bread, eggs, herrings, salmon and much more. It is not inexpensive at €27 ($41), but it is worth every cent. They also do great coffee—a cappuccino is around €4 ($6)—heavenly rye bread topped with smoked salmon or prawns, €6 ($9) for lunch and snacks all day. Fazer has been popular in Finland since 1891.

Helsinki is easy to get around and there is much to see and do. While most of the tourist sites are within the centre of the city, some

Summer in Helsinki: Finland’s Cultured Capital

“ In summer the sun illuminates the city until midnight.”

By debra kolkka

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visitor centre and pay the entrance fee of R60 (around $5.50). Follow the wooden boardwalk straight ahead until you’re surrounded by scores of African penguins. The birds are relative newcomers to the neighbourhood, having first settled at Boulders Bay in 1982.

If you want a closer encounter, take the separate boardwalk to the right of the ticket booth and follow it through the tree canopy to the secluded beach, where you can swim near the penguins. Just don’t get too close; they may look cute, but they can still bite…

After a quick dip and a few penguin selfies (without a selfie stick, which are banned for the birds’ safety), get back on the M4 and drive less than 10 kilometres to the Cape Point entrance. Pay the R125 (around $11) fee and weave through the scrubland of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve to the car park near the peninsula’s tip.

You can either walk 20 minutes up a steep path or take the Flying Dutchman Funicular (R55 return, around $5) to the old Cape Point lighthouse on top. It’s the highest point for kilometres, with stunning sea views. After a series of fatal shipwrecks, the lighthouse was decommissioned in the early 20th century and replaced with a

lower, brighter beacon farther down the cliffs. Brace for wind near the summit and gaze south toward Antarctica (but don’t strain your eyes; it’s still 4,023 kilometres away).

If you don’t mind another short hike, head down to Dias Beach below the lighthouse (R35 entrance, around $3), a stretch of stunning white sand hemmed in by imposing cliffs. The beach is named after Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, who first rounded the Cape in 1488.

Drive back to the park entrance and turn left on Plateau Road, where you’ll find dozens of merchants selling carved stone and wooden statues. Carry on a 100 metres or so and turn right into the Cape Point Ostrich Farm. You can snap a few photos of the gargantuan birds from the driveway or go on a guided 30-minute tour of the

farm for R55 (around $5).Try the ostrich fillet

(R145, around $13) or ostrich burger (R105, around $9.50) and browse the ostrich leather bags, belts and wallets among the massive, decorated eggs. The farm is open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., but the restaurant stops serving

at 4:30 p.m. and is closed on Thursdays. Continue up the Atlantic side of

the peninsula on the M65 and carry on to Chapman’s Peak for a glistening, shimmering sunset over Hout Bay’s windy cliffs. Continue past the toll booth (R40, around $3.60) and, if it’s Friday, stop by the Bay Harbour Market for live music, local delicacies (grilled fish and gourmet soups washed down with local craft beer) and quirky crafts (hand-painted wooden bowls and tiles engraved with African designs).

With the day winding down, zigzag onto Camps Bay for cocktails at Café Caprice. For a local twist, try the Rockwilder, a jazzed-up whiskey sour mixed with the Cape’s famous rooibos tea (R120, around $10.85).

Drive past the lively cafés and bars lining Victoria Road and pull off soon after the road starts to rise. Tucked away between Camps Bay and the famous beaches of Clifton is the secluded and immaculate Glen Beach, a local hideaway from tourists where you can watch the sun paint the sky pink as it dips below the Atlantic horizon. n

The Secrets of South Africa’s Cape Peninsulaby brian Pellot

Most people visit Cape Town, South Africa’s Mother City, for the breezy beaches, decadent vineyards and

picture-postcard views of Table Mountain. The appeal is easy to see. But if you

focus your stay solely on Cape Town, you risk missing out on all the secret attractions along the scenic Cape Peninsula, stretching out to the south of the city.

And the Cape Peninsula has much to offer. You can dive with cute penguins and get up close and personal with ostriches…surf some of Africa’s best waves…walk empty, white-sand beaches…and savour some of the country’s finest cuisine, before kicking back beneath a breathtaking sunset.

With the South African rand so low against the dollar (at the time of writing $1 will get you R11), a car shouldn’t cost more than $30 for the day. You can book one from Avis, Hertz, Sixt or Europcar in the city centre.

Set off after 10 a.m. to avoid the weekday rush-hour traffic and head straight through the southern suburbs to Muizenberg, South Africa’s surfing paradise. Pop into trendy Tiger’s Milk Restaurant & Bar for a red cappuccino (made with local caffeine-free rooibos tea instead of coffee), and watch the professional surfers catch the famous waves of False Bay. If you’re feeling peckish, share a delicious flammkuchen (fire-cooked) flatbread slathered with crème fraîche and topped with onions, leeks and pancetta (salt-cured bacon) for R95 (around $8.60).

Carry on to Kalk Bay and wander down Main Road past the craft stalls, antique shops and used book stores.

If hunger strikes again, stop in for top-notch mussels or grilled calamari at the Brass Bell (R95, around $8.60), and be sure to find a seat upstairs with endless ocean views. The restaurant juts over the bay above several tidal pools, so watch out for sea spray during the windy season.

Walk five minutes down Kleintuin Road to the Boulders Penguin Colony

“ Enjoy a quick dip with penguins.”

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International Living ClassifiedsYour guide to real estate, rentals, travel services, education, employment and money-making opportunities worldwide

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PROPERTY FOR SALE

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES US$1.75 per word, CAPS and bold US$0.25extra per word, add a box for US$10, image is US$50. International Living Australia subscribers receive a 20% discount. Prepayment is necessary, ad deadline is 4 weeks preceding publication. To place a classified ad please contact advertisisng@internationalliving.com. Visit our classified website at classifieds@internationalliving.com. Use this special promotional code (20ILA0716) when you check out to avail of your 20% subscribers discount (code valid for July only).

All listings are accepted on a first come, first servedbasis. International Living Australia reserves the right to disqualify any listings tit deems unsuitable. International Living Australia does not endorse these organisations or their Respective products, services or programs. In addition, International Living Australia shall not be responsible for any and all liability, including negligence, that may arise from a member’s use of theadvertisement’s. “Caveat Emptor” applies – let the buyer beware.

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Live well. Experience extraordinary residences around the continent and world. Join a not-for-profit company of shared ownership homes. Second home equity investment. High member satisfaction. See: www.mprivateresidences.comCompany price: CDN$295k. On offer: CDN $250k. US$ 200k. Contact Ken Haycock. ken@kenhaycock.com.

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Provence – Private Hideaway in MenerbesThis secret hideaway awaits you in a beautifully appointed apartment in Menerbes. The apartment faces the Luberon and has a lovely view of the mountains from the terrace. This 2-bedroom apartment is ideal for those who want to get a feel for Provencal life. Located in the heart of the village it’s ideally situated to immerse yourself in the daily rhythm of Provencal village life. While being centrally located, the apartment also offers a private terrace from which to enjoy the spectacular sunset of the Luberon. For more information check out www.VRBO.com/489321

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The Secrets To A Happy Life in Costa Rica San José, Costa Rica • September 22–24, 2016

Costa Rica ticks almost all the boxes on anyone’s retirement checklist.

From the temperate Central Valley to the beautiful tropical beaches, there’s a climate for everyone.

Costa Rica is home to the most stable democracy in Latin America. And you’ll find all the comforts of home, including modern shopping centres and reliable high-speed internet, just about everywhere.

You’ll pay zero income taxes on foreign-earned income. If you buy a home in Costa Rica, your annual property taxes will be little more than $270 to $670, in most cases. And there’s no capital gains tax whatsoever.

But as many expats have already learned, Costa Rica

IL’s CaLendar of events

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Our Costa Rica Editor Jason Holland had the benefit of living overseas from an early age. His father worked for the U.S. government in Turkey, Germany and Spain. Jason was born in Madrid and spent most of his childhood in Spain, returning to the U.S. to attend the University of Florida. After graduation, Jason worked as a journalist, writer and editor. But the call of the expat lifestyle was strong. In February 2012, he and his family moved to Costa Rica, where he spends his time travelling the country, researching and reporting on behalf of International Living. He’ll be on hand to talk you through Costa Rica’s best retirement destinations.

Dr. Kenneth Rojas Calderón is a private practice physician with associations at the top private hospital in San José, Clínica Bíblica. He’ll give you the lowdown on Costa Rica’s excellent healthcare services and private healthcare options.

When it comes to residence, tax law, corporations, trusts, banking and real estate, there is no better authority in Costa Rica than Roger Petersen, legal counsel. Roger has been practicing law in Costa Rica since 1992. He’ll bring you up to speed with the practical information you need to know if you’re planning to retire, buy a property or start up business here.

Experts You’ll Meet in San José

offers advantages many people aren’t aware of.

A built-in community of English-speaking locals and expats—it’s said that more than 11,000 expats currently live in Costa Rica.

It’s healthy, with little pollu-tion and lots of clean water and fresh air. Costa Rica is one of the only countries in the world to reverse deforestation. A stag-gering 99% of its energy comes from renewable, money-saving sources.

It’s also home to the happiest people in the world. Sociologists from the Happy Planet Index have said Costa Ricans “report the highest life satisfaction and have the second-highest average life expectancy of the Americas.”

Costa Rica is as good an op-tion as it’s always been for retir-

This September, you’ll find out where and how to live your dream beach life in Costa Rica.

ing inexpensively, starting a busi-ness or happily spending time in your second home in the sun.

It offers great weather, beautiful beaches (if the beach is your thing, you’ll be spoiled for choice, as Costa Rica offers more than 1,600 kilometres of coastline. Know where to look and you’ll find some incred-ible bargains), and world-class healthcare. And it’s so very af-fordable for daily living.

And in San José this Sep-tember, you’ll see all sides of Costa Rica. From luxury living to a comfortable and enjoyable way of life that you can manage on a pension…from the lush green mountains to the daz-zling beaches and everything in between.

It’s no wonder that many foreign retirees are living Pura Vida (the purely good life) in Costa Rica. And you could, too…

You can quit working and start living. Or even start a prof-

itable new venture…something you’re passionate about and have dreamed of doing. At our Fast-Track Costa Rica Con-ference, we’ll show you how.

You’ll get the whole picture, not just the fluff. Taxes, insur-ance and visas are not the fun part of being an expat. But you need to know this part of the story before you take your next step in Costa Rica. Our trusted professionals will deliver the information you need.

To discover the real Costa Rica, you need to hear from people like yourself—those who have gone before you.

And at this year’s Fast-Track Costa Rica Conference, you’ll hear from an unprecedented number of expats who have bought second homes, retired or started a business in Costa Rica.

Men and women who, just a short time ago, were in the same position that you are in today. n

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GLOBAL PROPERTY NOTES

Paris, France: A Longtime Literary Legacy

Famed haunt of the Lost Generation of expat writers like F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and Gertrude Stein in the post-World War I era, Paris has always been a city for writers…written in, written about…a setting for countless novels. The vibrant culture, the rich history and the artistic spirit lend themselves to literature. Paris continues to draw writers to this day—who could resist having a café au lait while jotting thoughts in a trusty Moleskine notebook? One of its most famous attractions is a bookstore, after all: Shakespeare and Company, on the Left Bank.

You can’t be a starving artist in Paris these days. But you can still find a comfortable, albeit small, place to rest your head at a reasonable rate. A studio apartment in the 10th arrondissement is

available for $66,994. In the more desirable second arrondissement, in the city centre, is another studio apartment for $386,031. See: Lodgis.com.

Prague, Czech Republic: An Intellectual Hotbed

Long one of the most popular expat destinations since its transition from communist rule, Prague continues to thrive. It has the sophistication of Western Europe…for less. Franz Kafka, who toiled in obscurity during his lifetime, worked in an insurance office by day and wrote his masterworks at night. There’s a major focus on the arts, including writers’ groups, writing festivals, writing retreats hosted by universities and more. That’s not surprising for a country that had a poet and playwright, Vaclav Havel, play a prominent role in bringing down Communism and become the country’s first elected president.

In Prague’s District 1, home to the city’s medieval heart, is a one-bedroom apartment for $157,600. Over in District 5, close to parks and shopping, is a two-bedroom apartment for $288,100. See: Praguerealestate.cz and Svoboda-williams.com.

Cartagena, Colombia: A Charming, Port City

For famed master of magical realism and Nobel Prize-winning novelist Gabriel García Márquez, Cartagena was his constant muse, thanks to its cosmopolitan flair—it’s charming, with an edge. The colonial city—one of the most important ports of Spain’s New World empire—on Colombia’s Caribbean coast inspired many of his novels, including Love in the Time of Cholera. The revitalised historic district features brightly painted homes and cathedrals set against the aquamarine sea. But it also has a modern side, with

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F ind Your Own Writer’s Retreat Around the World

W riting is a solitary art. The action takes place in the writer’s head…and spills out in the notebook in ink or through the

furious tapping of keys on a laptop.

For some, inspiration comes from solitude, in a quiet place in the countryside or the jungle. But for many great writers, past and present, a big city’s frenetic activity gives them new experiences and memories to draw on. The influence of a new culture and a new way of life can also inspire them. So can writing in a city with a rich literary tradition. In such places, inspiration is in the air.

These days, expat writers seek inspiration in every corner of the globe. These are people to run ideas and premises past…to give feedback on your first drafts. Even if you don’t write, literary cities are still worth visiting. They have no shortage of great cafés and bars to check out. n

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gleaming modern apartments and a seaside promenade with bars and restaurants lining beaches popular with holidaymakers.

A two-bedroom apartment in the old town—close to restaurants and nightlife—is available for $169,000. For a restored colonial home, with three bedrooms and a bougainvillea-lined balcony overlooking the street, you’ll pay $349,400. See: Cartagenafirstamericanrealty.com.

Cusco, Peru: A Colourful Mountain Retreat

Sitting more than 3,353 metres up in the Andes Mountains, Cusco is the one-time capital of the Inca Empire and later became a major colonial outpost. It has long drawn expats in search of South American adventures, as well as creative

stimulus. The San Blas neighbourhood, in the historic centre, is full of baroque Spanish colonial architecture. This neighbourhood in particular has a real bohemian flair, with plenty of cafés where you can while away your days looking for inspiration in a cup of espresso.

Low-cost housing and other daily expenses are another part of the appeal. Even though Cusco doesn’t have a rich literary heritage, expats here can comfortably live on $1,800 a month or less, making this a great choice for a writer on a budget.

A three-bedroom apartment near the city centre’s main square, the Plaza de Armas, lists for $174,700. A 325-square-metre home nearby, with seven bedrooms, is available for $255,330. Perhaps you could rent out rooms and turn it into a mini writers’ colony. See: Mondinion.com and Gabinohome.com.

Edinburgh, Scotland: The City of Literature

Edinburgh was the birthplace and former haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson (Treasure Island), Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes) and Sir Walter Scott (Ivanhoe), among other renowned wordsmiths. It was named a City of Literature by UNESCO in 2004 to recognise its rich history as a home for writers, as well as its vibrant contemporary writing scene.

It’s home to many book publishers and to a renowned annual celebration of the written word: The Edinburgh International Book Festival—the largest in Europe. It’s the perfect place for a budding writer to get noticed. J.K. Rowling famously wrote many of the books in the Harry Potter series in Edinburgh cafés, including The Elephant House.

A two-bedroom apartment close to the city centre is available for $224,353. Go to the city’s outskirts, but still close to parks and green space, and you pay less—$166,365 gets you a two-bedroom apartment. See: Rightmove.co.uk. n

A ny large estate worth its salt in Britain and Ireland has a gate lodge. Usually located at the front of the property,

near the main entrance, it was used to house the workers on the estate: groundskeepers, maids and the like. But these days, many have been restored and updated to include modern conveniences.

Living in a gate lodge often gives you access to the grounds of the attached estate or castle, where you’ll find beautiful landscaping and breathtaking scenery: You can bet you’ll be in a prime location. Lords and ladies of old didn’t settle for anything less.

For $151,216, you could have yourself a two-bedroom, one-bathroom gate lodge in the Irish countryside dating all the way back to 1780. The lodge is set amid fields and rolling hills, lying at the end of a quiet country lane. This setting makes it an ideal country retreat. For amenities, the town of Navan is only a 20-minute drive away, and you can be in the capital, Dublin, in under two hours.

Set on the press Castle Estate on the outskirts of Coldingham, an historic Scottish village on the North Sea, is a two-bedroom, restored gate lodge. It’s in the middle of private woodland of three-quarters of an acre, with another one-and- a-half acres of pasture if you want to keep some goats or sheep. Coldingham’s protected bay and sandy beach is ideal for seaside strolling, and there are trails crisscrossing the inland areas as well. The gate lodge can be yours for $460,267.

Also available in Scotland is a one-bedroom gate lodge near the town of Helensburgh, around 48 kilometres west of the city of Glasgow. Helensburgh was once a seaside retreat for Glasgow’s well-heeled, and so the town has plenty of stately residences (including the magnificent Hill House) as well as scenic views over the Firth of Clyde. The property features authentic stone walls and a traditional fireplace, with plenty of modern touches including a fitted kitchen. It’s listed for $244,711.

A Taste of Stately Living With a Gate Lodge

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36 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G JULY 2016

the LASt WORD

W hy would anyone give up friends, family, a beautiful home, a good job and security to roam

around with a small bag and a backpack half the world away?

I had it all. But, like so many people, the fast pace of life and high stress just had to go. Long working hours, business travel, churn and reorganisations in the office… So over three years ago I quit my job, sold my house, car and everything else, left two boxes of personal items in my friends’ garage, and took off.

I took back my freedom and started to live the way I wanted to.

Twenty years ago I spent some time in Southeast Asia, and I know the region well. Now I’m just three years away from my pension and not sure where I want to retire, but I just know it will be in Southeast Asia. Deciding where to live is like shopping: Look at the big picture and compare what’s available. The only way to do that is to travel around and see for myself.

I have three preferred bases from which I operate: the gorgeous tropical island of Bali, in Indonesia, Kota Kinabalu in Malaysian Borneo and Da Nang, Vietnam. I’m still evaluating new destinations, like Burma and Cambodia, which are starting to blossom. It’s best to stay ahead of the game; great locations often become mainstream, more expensive and less attractive over time.

You may think this all costs a fortune. But I live cheaply. I start out by trying a hotel, moving around until I find the perfect one in the best location at the right price. It takes a bit of time and money, but I always find the best spot. Then I make a weekly deal, do that for a bit, then do a monthly deal to get the best price.

My rooms are fully equipped with air conditioning, Pay TV, refrigerator, good queen- or king-sized bed, desk, internet, private bathroom, daily cleaning service, and

peace and quiet. On a monthly basis, my room in Bali goes for $10 a night. In Kota Kinabalu, it’s $13. And in Da Nang it’s a whopping $15.30 a night, because it has a balcony with a gorgeous view on the Han River.

You can eat well in each of these locations for $2.70 or less at local cafés. I know the best burger in Bali for $4, the most delicious sandwich in Da Nang for $2.70 and amazing pasta in Kota Kinabalu for $2.70. I drink local beer for about $1.30 a bottle ($2.70 in Bali, where it’s more expensive because of the many tourists). Local Vietnamese wine goes for $5 a bottle in stores, and it’s smooth and lovely to taste. I plan my trips in advance and spend about $270 a month on average, for air tickets. All told, I live very well on $1,500 or $1,600 a month.

I spend next to nothing on transportation as I walk most places (all my hotels are centrally located). After a while, local pricing kicks in, because shopkeepers and vendors see that I’m not just a passing tourist.

A nomadic lifestyle may sound stressful. But it just means that I have three places where I feel at home, not just one. I travel light, because I leave little stashes of clothes and personal effects stored with friends when I’m away.

But what about all those possessions I left behind? House, car, furniture and such? We think we own them, control them. But often it’s the opposite. They take time, energy and money to maintain, which reduces time available for enjoyment. So maybe I can’t watch that movie that’s so readily available on satellite back home. But now I spend most of my time having fun, instead of managing things I didn’t need.

The best part of this international, jet-set lifestyle? I have a circle of friends in each

place. Wherever I go, I can pick up right where we left off. If I get off the airplane and walk into my friend’s bar in Bali on a Sunday, the gang will be there watching sports, just as they were when I left. When I arrive in Kota Kinabalu, I look for the same immigration officer, chat with him and remind him what a great place it is. We laugh every time. Then I stroll into my favourite café and my tea magically appears as if they’ve been awaiting me. No doubt a table of friends will be there and a lively conversation underway. And the newspaper seller outside will have my English daily ready (he knows when to expect me). I made friends quickly with other expats; all of us being abroad, we naturally gravitate to each other.

When I reach Da Nang, the receptionist will take my passport and hand me the key to my favourite room. The hotel is owned by an overseas Vietnamese gent. We’ve become friends over time and share lunches and coffees

together. When I walk around the corner, the staff in one of my favourite cafés will plop down my favourite brand of ice-cold beer.

I feel comfortable wherever I go. Better yet, I don’t have the stress and hassles that went with my previous lifestyle. I live a much richer and more exciting life as a nomad. I’m

never bored or feel in a rut. Instead, my spirit of adventure has gone through the ceiling, while my stress level and blood pressure have dropped through the floor. I can go wherever I want in the region, even on my limited budget. Freedom.

Anybody who puts their mind to it and plans well can take on this lifestyle. In my case it took five years of planning, research trips to Asia and saving money. But it worked out for me.

Is this lifestyle for everyone? No. Is it forever? No. But for now, it’s perfect. n

“Anybody who puts

their mind to it can take on this lifestyle.”

By Rick Ellis

Reclaiming My Freedom With a Roving Retirement

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