jersey eats magazine - october 2011

JerseyEats

HISTORIC PITMAN FOR LUNCH | OKTOBERFEST IN PHILLY | YOUR FRIEND, CAULIFLOWER

www.jerseyeatsmagazine.com

Food & Drink in South Jersey

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2011COMPLIMENTARY

The apple. The pumpkin. The yummy.semper pie

C O N T E N T SO C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1

D E PA R T M E N T S :

6 I N S E A S O NThe Amazing Pumpkin: Hold the jack-o-lantern, this gourd yields tasty dishes.

10 M E E T . . .Putting cauliflower, a member of the cab-bage family, on your food choice radar.

14 J U S T A B I T EGreat places to lunch in historic Pitman.

18 B E E R H E R EIt’s fall and that means Oktoberfest and pumpkin beers.

26 W I N EPairing the vino with the bird and other Thanksgiving Day fare

28 W H A T W E ’ R E D R I N K I N GBelly up to the bar with a Rob Roy.

12 A S S E M B L Y R E Q U I R E DUse our instructions and build a better Wiener schnitzel.

20 D E S T I N A T I O N D I N I N GThe City of Brotherly Love embraces all things German.

16 H U N G E R S T O P S H E R ESouth Jersey food banks offer more than nutrition.

22 T H E G R E A T A M E R I C A N P I EFor the upper crust of pie appreciation, we present some yummy places to find the dessert.

36 F R O M T H E F I R E T O T H E F R Y I N G P A N Firefighters share cooking duties and food of their labor.

F E AT U R E S :

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6

40

10

16

22

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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2011 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 3

E D I T O R ’ S N O T E

I recently threatened my 7 year old with two weeks of being grounded to her bedroom.She protested. With a snap of her head she replied: “You can’t do that. That’s manual labor!”

Now, I am no Clarence Darrow, but I told her the legal world would consider it cruel and unusual punishment, and what’s more, she doesn’t even know what manual labor is.

But she’s about to find out. I’ve been a little lax in training her in the Betty Crocker School of Household Chores, so I

figure this tête-à-tête signaled the time to teach her how to get her hands dirty. And what better way to achieve that than by loading up the dishwasher?

To be honest (this is what the legal world calls full disclosure), I’ll do most any housekeep-ing chore. Scrubbing floors, washing windows, vacuuming, all good. I find folding laundry therapeutic and I have a-bring-it-on attitude when it comes to ironing. But there’s one thing I cannot deal with: I HATE TO TOUCH FOOD-ENCRUSTED UTENSILS AND DISHES. So by opting out of that chore and delegating it to the little Miss, I not only introduce her to Mr. Manual Labor, I teach her to pull her weight, too. Plus, it works out in my favor – no dish-pan hands for me, if you get my drift. (This is what the legal world calls a win-win.)

Before you go calling The Bad Mom Police on me, just know that we’ve come to an agree-ment. (The legal world calls this a meeting of the minds.)

1. The little Miss is fine with this arrangement.2. I’ll load all the sharp, pointy items.3. And this entire deal, trust me, won’t last as long as the shortest Thanksgiving dinner.

So, in the end, (this is what the legal world calls in summation) when you’re settled at the table with family and friends over the bird on turkey day and you’re about to put fork to pumpkin pie, that noise you hear will be me and the little Miss in the kitchen loading the dish-washer. (This is what the business world calls a joint venture.)

Chow,

Doing the dirty work

JerseyEatswww.jerseyeatsmagazine.com

VOLUME 1, NUMBER 2OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2011

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFMary Price

SENIOR COPY EDITORSSheri Berkery

Tom Wilk

CONTRIBUTING WRITERSBeth D’AddonoJanet Leonardi

Jeff LinkousMeghan MontagnaDr. Gary C. Pavlis

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERSDouglas BovittJohn ZiomekChris LaChall

Megan MontagnaJose F. Moreno

CREATIVE DIRECTORTara M. Askin

ADVERTISING DIRECTORWilliam Janus

[email protected]

ADVERTISING MANAGERSMelissa Bettner

[email protected] Martino

[email protected]

ADMINSTRATIVE SERVICESJacqui Wilcox

CIRCULATIONRick Steinmetz

EXECUTIVE EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER

Gene Williams [email protected]

PUBLIC INFORMATION Jersey Eats is published six times a year by the Courier-Post. Phone,

(856) 486-2920. Fax, (856) 663-2831. Jersey Eats welcomes editorial

ideas and submissions in writing by email. We assume no responsibility for the return of unsolicited mate-rial. Editorial inquiries: (856) 486-

2920, [email protected]. No portion of Jersey Eats may be reproduced without the express

consent of the Courier-Post.

Courier-PostA GANNETT NEWSPAPER

301 Cuthbert Blvd.Cherry Hill NJ 08002

ONLINE ONLYOCTOBER/NOVEMBER

ON THE COVER: Apple Lattice Pie from Johnson’s Corner Farm, Medford. Photography by Douglas Bovitt

RECIPES: Mediterranean Salad, Mushroom Soup, Rack of Lamb, and Roasted Butter-nut Squash

PIE TOPIA:For plenty of pie

recipes see, http://www.piecouncil.

org/Recipes/

Details on area cooking classes.

EAT MY WORDS by Tammy Paolino, a South Jersey food lover, at blogs.courierpostonline.com/eatmywords/

PUMPKIN PATCHES:For a list of places o pick your pumpkin,visit us online.

4 jerseyeatsmagazine.com OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2011

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OCTBOER/NOVEMBER 2011 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 5

OperationOven

TASTY MORSEL

GETTING TO THE FLESH IS EASY, JUST USE THESE STEPS• Cut pumpkin open and scoop out the seeds and stringy pulp.

• Place pumpkin halves face down in a baking dish. Add ½ inch of water to dish; this helps keep the pumpkin flesh moist.

• Bake at 450 degrees until you can pierce the skin with a fork (about 45 minutes to an hour).

• Scoop flesh out of shell with a spoon and use hand blender or food processor to mash or puree.

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One small pumpkin usually yields one large pie. Freeze puree to save for future use. Pumpkin-centric recipes are popping up all over, Seasons 52’s (Cher-ry Hill) fall menu in-cludes this delectable 3701 Church Road • Mt. Laurel

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I N S E A S O N

WWhile the pumpkin had a magical significance in the story of Cinderella, the orange orb is a humble fruit that takes center stage each Halloween, usually in the form of a jack-o-lantern.

But cooks, looking to bring autumn to the table, can use the pumpkin to make a variety of comfort dishes from soups and sides and purees to pies. The flesh of a pumpkin is easy to process and leaves canned pumpkin puree back on the shelf.

So while your pumpkin won’t likely turn into a fancy carriage, it will yield some yummy fare.

-Mary Price

UMPKINThe pleasingP


OperationStove Top

• Remove the outer skin of the pumpkin with a knife or peeler. Be careful. • Cut pumpkin in half.• Remove stringy pulp and seeds. Discard.• Chop pumpkin flesh into bite-size cubes.• Add water to a pot and simmer pumpkin until soft and easy to pierce with a fork. • Mash or puree with blender, hand blender or food processor.• Let cool and it’s ready to bake or freeze.

FREEZING PUMKPIN PUREE:• Squeeze excess air from a plastic freezer bag, flattening the pumpkin puree inside. This will provide easier storage and make thawing a faster process.• Thaw the frozen pumpkin puree overnight in the refrigerator. It is pos-sible to thaw the pumpkin puree more quickly by placing the frozen zip bag in a bowl of cold water.

I N S E A S O N

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510 Station Avenue, Haddon Heights 856-547-1787www.TaylorMadeMemories.com [email protected]

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Book your office party early.

Lillian’s Cafe


SPRINGDALE FARMSCherry Hill’s Only Working Farm… Where Freshness is Home Grown

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Jersey Eats … Farm Fresh

Springdale Farms

SpringdaleFarms.com

856-424-86741638 S. Springdale Rd. • Cherry Hill

I N S E A S O N


CauliflowerA n esteemed

member of the cabbage family, cauliflower, also

referred to as heading broccoli, is available year round. The head is made up of tiny florets, which can be white, green or purple (which turns pale green or bluish when cooked and has a slightly bitter taste). The entire floret portion (the curd) is edible. The green leaves at the base are also edible, but take longer to cook and have a stronger flavor. The taste here is mild like broccoli, but with a nutty flavor like butternut squash. When cooking, add a tablespoon of lemon or one cup of milk to keep it from discoloring.

Photography by Douglas Bovitt

Meet...

When shopping for cauliflower, look for a clean, creamy white, compact curd where the clusters of buds are together and not separated. Heads that are spotted or dull-colored, should be avoided, as well as those that have small flowers.

TASTY MORSEL

-Mary Price


CauliflowerCreamy

Cauliflower SaladRecipe courtesy of Chef Janet Davis of Scotch Bonnets, Medford

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 Head cauliflower• 4 Medium-size red potatoes• 1/3 Cup celery, thinly sliced• 2 Stalks green onion, chopped• 3 Eggs • ½ Cup milk• 1/3 Cup mayonnaise• 2 Tbps. butter• 1 ½ tsp. sea salt• ¾ tsp. paprika• ¼ tsp. ground black pepper DIRECTIONS:

1. Remove leaves and stalk from cauliflower. Wash. Chop into small flowers.2. Wash potatoes and cut into cubes. 3. Boil cauliflower, potatoes and eggs in salted water for about seven minutes. Let cool.4. Sauté celery and green on-ions in butter for approximately two minutes. Add milk, papri-ka, ground black pepper and simmer for another minute.5. Chop eggs.6. Add cauliflower, potatoes, eggs and mayonnaise into mix-ing bowl.7. Pour on sauté and mix.Cover and refrigerate.

Serve chilled.

Serves 4

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A S S E M B L Y R E Q U I R E D


Aside from its great taste, Wiener schnitzel is fun to say. This golden fried dish, one of the most famous in Viennese cuisine, is an un-complicated recipe that soars when top-notch ingredients are used; fresh oil is a must. Das wienerschnitzel, prepared for Jersey Eats by Chef Kathy Gold of In the Kitchen Cooking School in Haddonfield, makes the hall of fame for a delicious entree that goes frompan to plate in minutes.

AWiener Schnitzel

Serves 4

TECHNIQUES: Classic methods of dredging and sauteeing

INGREDIENTS:• 4 Veal cutlets, about 5 ounces each (can use pork or turkey)• Sea salt• 1 Lemon, cut in 6 wedges, di-vided• 3/4 Cup all-purpose flour• 2 Eggs, lightly beaten with 2 Tbsp. cold water• 1 Cup fine, dry unseasoned bread crumbs• 2 Tbsp. canola or vegetable oil• 4 to 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter

In the Kitchen Cooking School10 Mechanic St.Haddonfield(856) 795-2433For a list of cooking schools, see www.jerseyeatsmagazine.com

LESSONS, ANYONE?


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Do the math. Then get a Yamaha.

*122 MPG Zuma® model not pictured. Fuel economy estimates are based on US EPA exhaust emission certification data obtained by Yamaha. Your actual mileage will vary depending on road conditions, how you ride and maintain your vehicle, accessories, cargo, and operator/passenger weight. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Specifications subject to change without notice. ©2011 Yamaha Motor Corp. U.S.A. All rights reserved. • yamaha-motor.com

Vino® Classic 110mpg

FZ6R®

43mpg

FZ8®

39mpg

Up to 122 MPG.*

Do the math. Then get a Yamaha.

*122 MPG Zuma® model not pictured. Fuel economy estimates are based on US EPA exhaust emission certification data obtained by Yamaha. Your actual mileage will vary depending on road conditions, how you ride and maintain your vehicle, accessories, cargo, and operator/passenger weight. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Specifications subject to change without notice. ©2011 Yamaha Motor Corp. U.S.A. All rights reserved. • yamaha-motor.com

Store Hours Monday thru Friday

10am-7pm and Saturday 10am-5pm

Email: [email protected]

Web site: mthollypowersports.com

1799 Rt. 38 / Lumberton, NJ 08048Phone: (609) 267-2123 or (800) 660-2123

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PREPARATION:Place one veal cutlet between two

pieces of plastic wrap or in a plastic zipper bag and pound to an even 1/8-inch thick-ness. Repeat with all cutlets. Place pounded cutlets on a baking sheet and drizzle juice from one or two of the lemon wedges over each side. Reserve the extra lemon wedges for serving.

FOR THE DREDGING STATION:

Place flour in a wide, flat dish and season with salt. Beat together the eggs and water, and place

in a bowl deep enough to dip veal pieces. Place the bread crumbs in a wide flat dish.

COOKING:Season the veal on both sides with

sea salt. Dip the cutlets lightly into the seasoned flour, making sure to coat all surfaces, then gently shake off the excess flour. Dip the cutlets into the egg mix-ture, letting the excess drip away, and then dredge them in the bread crumbs. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.

Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and add the butter and oil. When the butter stops foam-ing, add one or two pieces of veal to the pan. Cook the

veal in batches so the pan is not crowd-ed. Cook for about 4 minutes or until golden brown, and then using a spatula, turn the veal and cook on the other side. Repeat with remaining veal, add-ing more butter if necessary. Serve on plates with the reserved lemon wedges.


JIM & MIKE’S PIZZA & STEAKS7 S. Broadway (856) 582-8044 The eatery is part diner, part Italian restaurant, and all satisfying. If you’re extra

hungry on your lunch hour, you can fill up on a classic: spaghetti with a side salad and warm bread. $6.95.

BARCELONA EUROPEAN BISTRO 126 S. Broadway (856) 270-2352 If you have both

sophisticated taste and a realistic budget, you’ll find a menu match at Barcelona, which lends a taste of Europe to its soups, salads and entrees. A popular lunch choice is the grilled salmon with sundried tomato sauce, asparagus and mashed potatoes. $9.95.

BUS STOP MUSIC CAFÉ148 S. Broadway (856) 582-0009

If you want lunch to be an experience, visit the Bus Stop Café for live music, a creative menu and, if time allows, record and CD shopping. All meats are free of hormones, nitrates, preservatives and chemicals. Try the Turkey & Avocado Hoe-Down, featuring havarti with ranch. $6.99.

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4

- Meghan Montagna for Jersey Eats

J U S T A B I T EPITMANVENICE ITALIAN EATERY AND PIZZA68 S. Broadway (856) 582-0770 The restaurant’s homemade bread bookends the Sicilian Special Panini, filled with grilled chicken breast, roasted peppers, bruschetta and provolone. It’s one of many under-$10 paninis served at Venice, a small gem in the heart of Pitman. $6.95.

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SMOOTHIE BAR AT VANITY HEALTH CLUB57 S. Broadway (856)589-0601

In need of an energy boost? Instead of relying on caffeine alone, shake it up at the Smoothie Bar with all-fruit smoothies and protein-enhanced shakes. The large java protein shake is a healthy option; if you can’t make it without caffeine, you can add 200 mg of your favorite fuel to any shake for $1 extra. $5


Val Traore’s voice is a calming, even tone, a steady demeanor in contrast to the stark statistics about hunger across South Jersey that she reels off to an interviewer.

Her numbers outline the rising volume of food supplied by the Food Bank of South Jersey to the 240 pantries and soup kitchens it supports in Burlington, Camden, Glouces-ter and Salem counties. The stats also tell a story plucked from today’s headlines on the flagging economy, as well as highlight some new pangs the 25-year-old organization itself is experiencing.

“Forty-one percent more people are coming into food pantries and kitchens because of the economy, people who have exhausted savings or were downsized,” says Traore, the Food Bank’s CEO. “When unem-ployment benefits run out, individuals who once had beautiful homes and (children in) private schools now find themselves robbing Peter to pay Paul. They wonder how they are going to put food on the table.”

The profile of hunger across the region

is changing, widening its reach as the economy sputters. But some things about hunger don’t change, and the biggest is that hunger remains a 365-day-a-year problem. That thought is never far from the minds of the Food Bank or the Cathedral Kitchen, a like-minded Camden organization that provides prepared meals and other services for the region’s needy.

“As of last year, we provide over 200,000 meals annually,” says Rita Cinelli, program manager for Cathedral Kitchen. Those who make use of the service “are drawn from the area population, primarily the Camden area. But some people come from farther away. We don’t ask. People are welcomed because they are hungry.”

September was Hunger Action Month – New Jersey and 11 other states issued proclamations to help put a spotlight on hunger – capped off with the Food Bank’s Oct. 1 Hungerstock multi-bill benefit con-cert (Survivor, Sam Sparro, plus Patty Smyth and Scandal) at Campbell’s Field in Cam-

Beyond Hunger Some area food banks feed the stomach

and nurture the spirit Story by Jeff Linkous

Always good!Even better with friends!

Reservations 856-858-9840 www.nunzios.net

706 Haddon AveueCollingswood

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Val Traore, executive director of the Food Bank of South Jersey, in the Pennsauken facility.

To advertise

in the next issue

of JerseyEats,

call 856-486-2503.


den. Autumn and the unfolding holiday season often instill in the public’s mind a charitable urge to help the less fortunate. For support agencies, which raise money for their needs year-round, October to January is a harvest season.

“That’s when we know we get a lot of attention,” says Traore. The food drive qua-druples during that period, she says, but not without adding a caveat: “Whatever we raise in food in that time, we generally turn it over in about four to five months after. We’re back to a low inventory because it does move out quickly.”

(Something to bear in mind: Donations ebb over the sum-mer months, when givers are on vacations or spending time with family, for instance. But it’s a critical time of year, since schools are out of session and their breakfast and lunch pro-grams aren’t available to pro-vide two to three meals a day for the region’s 36,000 children in need. “Just when you think we don’t need you the most, we

need you,” Traore says.)When the Food Bank start-

ed in the mid-1980s, its scope was more attuned to emergency relief, helping feed people af-fected by natural disasters or calamities like fires. But the shift in mission comes from the ines-capable conclusion, Traore says, that hunger is a byproduct of cyclical poverty and economic disaster.

Two decades into its

existence, the Food Bank has seen its distribution of food rise sharply: an expected 12 million pounds this year, up 4 million pounds from last year and 8 million pounds since 2006. (Donations come from the food industry, government and the general public. Staff dietitians keep track of inventory to en-sure a nutritional balance.)

The current tanking economy is to blame for the spike in need. As a result, there’s more pressure for getting food to people and an urgency to diversify the approach for doing so.

“The last two to three years, we’ve been seeing middle-income people who are getting squeezed, or people who made a little too much to qualify for public assistance,” Traore says. “We have people who for first time in their lives have to go for charity, welfare, social services.”

Those people, Traore says, are faced with the time conflict of standing in line for food aid while also trying to look for work. The Food Bank

has encouraged pantries to develop ways to accommodate them, such as opening at night or weekends. In communities where there are no pantries, the Food Bank has partnered with churches and mosques, social services agencies, and businesses to use their parking lots to send tractor-trailers of foods for direct distribution to people in need.

That’s a first for the orga-nization, and the Hope Mobile, as it’s called, now stops at 32 locations across South Jersey. “That’s put a strain on us be-cause we weren’t designed to be a direct-services organization,” Traore says. “We were designed to be a distributor through another channel.”

Dealing directly with indi-viduals in need is the model for the Cathedral Kitchen, an or-ganization that started 35 years ago serving meals to Camden’s poor from a church (hence the name Cathedral Kitchen). Since 1976, however, the organiza-tion has widened it mission,

350 HADDON AVE (Formerly Cabana Water Ice) HADDON TOWNSHIP, NJ • (856) 858- 8500

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The Cathedral Kitchen’s dining area is spacious and airy.

Continued to Page 33

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Mon. - Thur. 11am - 9pmFri. & Sat. 11am - 10pm

175 N. Route 73West Berlin, NJ

(Corner of Taunton Ave. & Rt. 73)(856) 768-8811

www.TheFatTomatoGrill.com

One Word:

Great Place • Great FoodLunch or Dinner • Dine In or Take Out

Great Place • Great FoodLunch or Dinner • Dine In or Take Out


The Davidowich FamilyCustom Made Cakes For Your Special Events• Wedding Cakes • Bar/Bat Mitzvah• Bridal Showers • Graduations• Baby Showers • Anniversary

• Birthday Cakes for All Ages

Please allow ample time for special orders

www.sweeteatscakebakery.com

Sweet EatsBakery

Sweet EatsBakery

Our Marlton Express Store is open Mondays

Voorhees, NJ(Our Main Store)

Burnt Mill Road½ mile from the Voohees Town Center

(856) 429 - 2005Tue & Thur 8 AM - 6 PMWed & Fri 7 AM - 6 PM

Sat 8 AM - 5 PM Sun 8 AM - 2 PM

Eveshan Twp(Our Express Store)

Crispin Square Shopping Center N. Maple AveJust Off Greentree Road

(856) 596 - 0331

Cakes, Pastries &

Cookies are always available in our

showcases.

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Mon - Sat 9 AM - 6 PM Sun 9 AM - 3 PM

EVENTS

River Horse Brewing Oktoberfest

River Horse Brewery, 80 Lam-bert Lane, Lambertville1 to 6 p.m. Saturday, Oct. 8Bands, beer, bratsRain date: noon to 5 p.m., Sunday, Oct. 9www.riverhorse.com

The 14th Annual Kennett Brewfest

Downtown Kennett Square, Pa.2 to 6 p.m. Saturday, Oct. 8. Sample beers from more than 60 local, regional, and craft breweries Connoisseur tasting, noon to 1:30 p.m.No one under 21 will be admitted. No babies. No pets. Tickets are required for all attendees – tasters and non-tasters.Event will be held rain or shine.www.kennettbrewfest.com

Asbury Park Beer Festival @ Convention Hall

Cheers to Beers! The first Asbury Park Beer Festival is set to take place at Asbury Park’s Con-vention Hall on Saturday, Oct. 8, and will feature craft beers from all over the world, iconic retro beers, a cider bar and more. The beerfest is presented by 95.9 WRAT and the Asbury Park Boardwalk. For times and ticket prices go to, www.ticketmaster.com

6th Annual Original Newtown Brewfest

Beer Festival @ Newtown Swim Club Newtown, Pa.,From noon to 5 p.m. Saturday, Oct 22. More than 175 beers and select wines, home brew-ers, VIP tentm music and food. www.allaboutnewtown.org

Spend the Day with Us!BOB’S MEATS • CLAM BAR • HERBS

• CHESKA’S DELI & LUNCHROOM • LEE’S PRODUCE • PIZZA STAND• NUT & CANDY DEPOT • MUELLER’S ICE CREAM, CANDY & COFFEE• YHANNE’S HOUSE OF CHEESECAKES & SPICES & STUFF

41 Clementon Rd. • BerlinBerlin Farmers Market

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GIANT OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET

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Indoor Market Hours: Thurs. - Sat. 10 AM - 9 PM, Sun. 10 AM - 6 PM

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We have the largest freshest produce market in South Jersey, plus more!


B E E R H E R E

Restaurant & Bar

Open For Lunch & Dinner7 DaysA Week

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• Rustic & Contemporary Italian Cuisine

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3 CourseMondays & Tuesdays

$19.95

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1738 Cooper Street, Deptford, New Jersey

Info & Reservations - 856-228-4235Only 10 Minutes From Philadelphia 1/4 mile from Deptford Mall

www.filomenalakeview.com

Join us for ourComedy show

Oct. 18th

Brunch Menu Available Sat & Sun

Story by Jeff Linkous

t’s fall, and in the beer world that means two things: Oktoberfest and pumpkin beers.As an event, Oktoberfest in its native Mu-nich is a mid-September moment (it was Sept. 17-Oct. 3 this year; Sept 22-Oct. 7 next year). Here in America, Oktoberfest has a September-through-October window, with American-made craft brews compet-ing for stomach space with the German imports. Whatever the case, these are brews that you can enjoy from the fall through winter. The Germans originated the full-bodied, strong lagers, distinguished by clean hop bitterness in the background with rich bready, caramel flavors and aromas up front. Americans brewers follow that sensibil-ity, but don’t expect them to be as rigidly faithful to style hallmarks as the Germans. U.S. craft brewers like to color outside the lines. (Americans, for instance, have virtu-ally rewritten the rules for IPA to the point where you almost forget the British invented the style.) That said, here are some differences you may notice between the brews … German versions are lagers. American ones generally are, too, but not always. Some U.S. brewers don’t have the capacity to make lagers, so their fest beers are actu-ally ales fermented at cooler temperatures (An example: Flying Fish’s Oktoberfish, made with Dusseldorf alt yeast.) German fest beers have a noticeable sweetness, balanced with just enough hop bitterness, plus a robust, yet quite manage-able alcohol content (high 5’s to 6 percent alcohol by volume). U.S. brewers can up that alcohol ante. Think Colorado brewer Avery, with its imperial take, The Kaiser, at 9.3 percent ABV. Brewpubs can throw the style a curve, too. Pub brewers stay in business by making beers that play to their patrons’ tastes, and


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D E S T I N A T I O N D I N I N G

Hops: those thumb-size yellow-green flower cones that make beer taste and smell like

beer. As ingredients go, there’s probably nothing else that has the muscle they do.

Yeast comes close, damn close, since it’s yeast’s very life cycle – the fermentation process – that actually turns hopped-malt sugar into beer, leaving behind flavor notes that can be fruity, funky or smooth.

But hops have something yeast doesn’t, a certain marketing cachet. The kind of juice that gets things (i.e. beers) named after them: Hop

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Full service cateringAll Hot & Cold Food made to order

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Salad & Cole Slaw Seating Available

2943 Route 73 • Maple Shade856-667-8488

OPEN 7 DAYS

DELICATESSEN • CATERING

The cafes and beer gardens were crowded to suffocation, the theaters put forth their most attractive performances, music and dancing

echoed every night from a thousand halls.-The New York Times, Dec. 7, 1859, describing

one of Munich’s early Oktoberfests

“ “

to wurstFrom good

No doubt Philly can’t compete with the sudsy throwdown they stage each year in Munich, which draws some 6 million people to a 100-acre makeshift beer hall for 17 days of brew and lederhosen-and- dirndl-clad revelry.

But the City of Brotherly Love comes by its love of all things German naturally. By the mid-18th century, Germans represented nearly half of Philadel-phia’s population, settling mostly in Germantown. And don’t forget that the famed Prussian Baron von Steuben was the drillmaster at Valley Forge.

When they immigrated, the earliest Pennsylvania Germans brought more than a thirst for freedom to the region. They brought their culinary traditions to the table, traditions that live on during Oktoberfest and beyond. The next time you hanker for a schnit-zel or a link of caraway-scented brat, head to one of these eateries for comfort food with a decidedly German accent.

NStory by Beth D’Addono

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Everyday is Oktoberfest at this real-deal South Street beer hall, a cozy bi-level eatery owned by Kelly Schmitz-Hager and her husband Doug Hager. Hager, who was raised in the ’burbs but born in Germany, fell in love with the brauhaus scene while working at the now-shuttered Ludwig’s Garten in Center City.

After spending two years in the Cologne, the couple decided to bring the German experience back to Philly, and opened Brauhaus Schmitz in 2009. With an average of 20 seasonal German brews on tap, Hager has the beer bases covered. And chef Jeremy Nolen takes care of the rest. Nolen, who grew up in Berks County, Pa., an area with strong German roots, learned old-school cooking at a German club, from fluffy knodels (potato dumplings) to savory sauerbraten, a slow cooked pot roast served with a dark vinegary gravy with just a touch of sweetness.

He offers this hearty, comforting fare at Brauhaus Schmitz, along with what he calls New German Cuisine: modern, sometimes lighter variations on the common theme.

Instead of braised, his schweins-kottelet is a grilled bone-in pork chop served with roasted baby beets and carrots and an onion jam. While beef bone marrow is a traditional treat, Hager’s arrives smoked over hickory wood, a silky emulsion served hot along with grilled bread and cor-nichons. Even his spaetzle gets an update, thanks to the addition of buckwheat flour, giving it a darker, nuttier bite.

Brauhaus Schmitz718 South St.Philadelphia (267) 909-8814 www.brauhausschmitz.com

E

Continued on Page 34

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Just ask Evelyn Penza of Penza’s Pies at the Red Barn Café in Hammon-ton. “People will smell a whiff of our pies baking as they drive by and they’ll suddenly turn their cars around and come in to buy one,” Penza says.

Luckily, they always have a great selection to choose from. Penza, who has been making pies at the 150-year-old family barn for nearly four decades, says, “We pride ourselves on our unique varieties. We combine everything from sweet potato and ricotta and apple and cranberry to asparagus and roasted red

peppers. Whether tart or sweet, you can be sure you’ll be getting a Jersey fresh pie.”

Let’s face it; the pie, Jersey or otherwise, is comfort food. Pies can perk up your spirits, not to mention your taste buds, and it seems no mat-ter how full you are after any given meal, Thanksgiving included, you can always find room for a slice or two. In fact, bubbly warm pot pies are meals themselves.

Historians credit the early Greeks with first mixing flour and water into

a paste, which they cooked and filled with meat. During medieval times, “pyes” were food receptacles stuffed with beef, lamb, wild duck and magpie pigeon.

The English pilgrims are credited with bringing the pie, humble though it was back then, to our shores. Over the years as our nation grew, so did the fill-ings and flavors of our pies and it seems we’ve had a soft spot in our hearts, not to mention a craving in our belly, for

THE GREATAmerican pieStory by Janet Leonardi • Photography by Douglas Bovitt

As the old saying goes, there are few things as American as apple pie. In fact, just the thought of one, fresh from the oven wafting delectable aromas can be enough to make a grown man swoon.



THE GREAT

Apple Lattice PieRecipe courtesy of Johnson’s Corner Farm, Medford

INGREDIENTS

TO MAKE FILLING:

• 8 Cups apples; peeled, cored and wedged

• 1 ½ tsp. cinnamon• 1 ½ Cups sugar• 1/3 Cup unflavored gelatin mix• Combine ingredients in large

bowl and toss until well coated. Set aside.

TO MAKE CRUST AND LATTICE STRIPS

• Crust and Lattice Strips:• 1 lb. Pastry flour• 1 oz. powdered milk• 2/3 lb. butter or margarine,

cubed• 1/2 oz. sugar• 2/5 Cup water

DIRECTIONS:

• Combine flour, milk powder and sugar in large bowl. Add margarine; mix by hand. Add water, blend by hand until dough forms. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

• Roll out one half of dough and place in 10-inch pie pan for bottom crust. Fill with apple mixture.

• Roll remaining dough into rectangular sheet. Cut into five even strips. Place three strips, centered, over the pie shell and mixture. Fold back the first and third strips 1/3 of the way. Place fourth strip in opposite direction, unfold two strips. On the opposite side, pull back the center strip 1/3 of the way. Place fifth strip in the opposite direction. Unfold center strip.

• Crimp edges with a fork. Cut off excess and brush with milk or egg wash; sprinkle with sugar.

• Bake at 350 degrees for approximately 1 hour or until lattice is firm and filling is bubbling.

Serves 8

The Granny Smith is the sought-after apple when it comes to baking apple pie. Its sweet-tart taste, ability to hold its shape and ready availability make it so. Some others include Jonathan, Jonagold and Braeburn. Avoid Red and Golden Delicious apples for pie baking as they tend to get mealy.

TASTY MORSEL


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INGREDIENTS • 4 eggs• 1 cup sugar• 1 cup light cream• 3 generous cups ricotta cheese• 1 Tbsp. grated lemon or orange zest• 3 Tbsps. lemon juice• 3 Tbsps. flour• Half tsp. salt • 3 Tbsps. Grand Marnier (optional)

Classic Ricotta Pie

DIRECTIONS:

1. Blend ingredients to-gether, pour into 9-inch pie crust and place your choice of sliced fruit on top.

2. Baking tips as all ovens vary: Preheat oven at 400 degrees for 25 minutes then drop to 335 degrees for remainder of cooking time (approximately 40 more minutes). If oven is convection gas, start at temperature of 375 and drop to 300.

3. Pie will puff when fin-ished and a toothpick will come out clean.

Serves 8

Recipe courtesy of Penza’s Pies at the Red Barn Cafe, Hammonton

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Anniversary

Our 21stpies ever since.

We still relish pie-eating contests at state fairs; laugh with delight when a clown gets a cream pie in his face and are extremely proud of ourselves when we put things in “apple-pie order.”

The tried-and-true apple pie remains the quintessential favorite. Penza, whose pies range in price from $18 to $23, says she makes her apple pies, and all the others, in batches of two dozen. “We use all kinds of apples but especially like winesaps. Every apple is cored, peeled and sliced but we’re lucky to have a 50-year- old apple corer-peeler. My sons saw it for sale in a farming magazine and drove to Pennsylvania in their pickup truck to get it. It’s been a great find and saves us a tremen-dous amount of time.”

Eric Johnson, owner of Johnson’s Corner Farm in Medford, agrees apple pie is still the crowd pleaser, especially in autumn. Johnson and his brother, Peter, who together oversee the 100-acre family farm their parents purchased in 1953, re-ally know what people prefer because their farm bakery makes and sells about 20,000 pies each year.

“We started making pies here about 30 years ago when my brother’s mother-in-law baked the first ones in her kitchen and we ran them down to our small farm stand,” Johnson says. The pies were an instant success and when the baking needs outgrew their kitchens, the brothers had commercial ovens installed and the rest, as they say, is farm pie history.

“We now have six convection ovens, which are more efficient and cook more evenly plus a large rotating oven where we bake 8 dozen pies at one time,” Johnson explains. ”Even if you’re baking at home, it’s important to remember different types of pies cook differently.”

The farm, which sells mouth-watering choices like strawberry rhubarb, peach praline and blueberry crumb, is also known for its tasty turkey and chicken pot pies. “Our pot pies are chock full of poul-try and vegetables,” Johnson points out.

He says their deliciously rich choco-late chip pie is another favorite in cool weather “When I’m asked to describe it, I say it’s like eating a chocolate chip cookie in a pie crust.”

Pie prices vary but most range from $13.95 to $15.95 and if you’d like to sample the chocolate chip or any of John-son’s other pies, mark your calendars for November 12 and 13 from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. when the farm hosts its annual Pie-Tasting Weekend. “The idea came to us a few years ago when we were at a smorgasbord,”

Continued from Page 22


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W I N E

Story by Dr. Gary C. PavlisRutgers Extension agent and member of the Garden State Wine

Growers Association

Pairing: The Ultimate Challenge

Wine and food matching is a challenge to most under normal circumstances, and Thanks-giving is anything but normal. Usually, we match wine with each course. A sparkling champagne with the shrimp cocktail appetizer, a Pinot Grigio with the cream of leek soup, a Cabernet with the filet mignon and a raspberry wine with the cheese-cake works great. This is not how most of us eat at Thanksgiving. Sure, the sparkling choice will still be great with the appetizers, but after that, most of us don’t have courses, we have a feast. We put every dish imaginable on the table all at once. Besides the white and dark meat, a typical Thanksgiving meal may include sweet potatoes, creamed onions, turkey stuffing, candied carrots, green beans in mushroom soup with French-fried onions, and cranberry sauce, to name a few choices. How in the world do you match a wine with this smorgasbord?

Well my answer is to do the same thing with the wines that you’re doing with the food. Have some fun with it and give the family and friends seated at your table choices in wine just as you have with the food.

Besides, if your family is anything like mine, you don’t have a group of wine connoisseurs around the table. Aunt Mary says the sweeter the wine the better, Aunt Ann says she likes fruity, brother Glenn wants something dry, red and expensive, and I would like a spicy white and a luscious red. Uncle John says he just wants a shot and a beer. For him, there is no hope.

So what would I suggest? First, I don’t think you have to go expensive. There are hundreds of wines at your local store that will fit the bill perfectly that won’t break your budget. And since you’re buying a few wines, my advice is to keep it simple, keep it inexpensive. I would still go with the sparkling to get things started. A Domaine Chandon Rose ($17) is very fruity, a beautiful pink color and will be wonderful with appetizers. It’s best not to start with something sweet be-cause it will make any food that is not sweet taste bland. (While you’re at it, buy a few bottles, New Year’s Eve isn’t that far away.)

The main meal demands a few wines, and a wide range of styles. You should still match a wine with the turkey. Basically the white meat will go great with a nice, non-oaky Chardonnay. I would go with a Jersey wine here. Sharrott Winery in Winslow makes a beau-tiful Chardonnay for ($18.99) or you could go with a

It’s that time again! Thanksgiving is here and no other holiday centers as much around a meal at home. And after all the traditional courses are planned, the invitations are sent, and the turkey and groceries are purchased, it’s time to think about the wine.

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W H A T W E ’ R E D R I N K I N GW H A T W E ’ R E D R I N K I N G

Who could blame the Rob Roy cocktail for being a little schizophrenic. After all, the drink is really a Manhattan with scotch instead of rye. The scotch substitute isn’t a great leap when you consider the drink is named for a Scottish folk hero, Rob Roy. If you want to brush up on the history of Robert Roy MacGregor, catch Liam Neeson in the title role of 1995’s “Rob Roy’’ also starring Jessica Lange. For more pop-culture references, read “Hocus Pocus,” Kurt Vonnegut’s 1990 novel in which the professor and protagonist, Eugene Debs Hartke, names his son for his favorite cocktail,

the classic Rob Roy.

–Mary Price

— From “Caddyshack,”1980

“ “Tony: Another Rob Roy, Bishop?

Bishop: You never ask a Navy man if he’ll have another drink because it’s nobody’s damn business how many drinks he’s had already, right?

Meet Rob RoyW A PERFECT ROB ROY

• 2.5 oz. Dewar’s Scotch• 1/4 oz. Sweet vermouth • 1/4 oz. Dry vermouth• Dash of angostura bitters to taste Add to mixing glass filled with ice, stir vigorously, place in chilled cocktail glass and top with a lemon peel twist.

Cocktail made and photographed at

Steak 38 Cafe515 Route 38 EastCherry Hill (856) 662-3838

Tony: Another Rob Roy, Bishop?

Bishop: You never ask a Navy man if he’ll have another drink because it’s nobody’s damn business how many drinks he’s had already, right?



W H A T W E ’ R E D R I N K I N GPhotography by Douglas Bovitt

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ROBERT STARR FURNITUREROBERT STARR FURNITUREContinued from Page 19

if those folks want a hoppier fest beer, you may find it pouring from their taps, never mind what the style guidelines are. Time to put the money where the glass is. Here are some Oktoberfest recommendations.

GERMAN: •Hacker-Pschorr, one of the six brews of the Munich festival, always a reliable offering, better yet if you have friends who belong to a German club that man-aged to get an unfiltered version shipped from Germany for their Oktoberfest event. •Ayinger, rich and malty in taste and aroma, nice hops managing the back-ground.

AMERICAN:•Left Hand Brewing Oktoberfest. Chewy, tasty with a whiff of caramel in the nose. •Great Lakes Brewing Oktoberfest. This brew delivers thoroughly, rich, well bal-anced, just the right sweetness to bitter.

Now about those pumpkin beers … Some people rave about them – pump-kin pie in a glass – others hate ’em. For folks in between, they’re often a one-and-done beer, see you next year. That said, they’ve become a very big a seasonal for U.S. brewers

The imperial versions are more inter-esting than the lower-strength pump-kin brews (like Brooklyn Brewery’s Post Road Pumpkin Ale, for instance). There’s a lot happening in these beers to begin with, and extra alcohol melds well with the spices.

Some versions to look for: Dogfish Head Punkin, Fegley’s Devious Pumpkin Imperial Pumpkin Ale, Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin Ale and Southern Tier’s Pumpking. Iron Hill brewpub in Maple Shade turns out an appealing imperial bourbon-barrel-aged pumpkin ale. Atlantic City’s Tun Tavern brewpub marches to a different beat, doing the pumpkin seasonal as a lager; it’s crisper with more pumpkin flavor.

Beer’s always a better experience with food, and pumpkin beers kind of demand it. Roast a turkey or a cut of pork and everything will work out for the greater gourd.

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Meridian Santa Barbara from California ($10.99). Both wines are great values.

The dark meat, my favorite, is a little more fun. I would go with a Zinfandel, the red version. Don’t get an expensive one, they’re too tannic for turkey, get one in the $10.99 to $12.99 range. Zins at this price level are always fruity and lush. I would try Raven-swood, Cline, or Rabbit Ridge. Another great match is a Pinot Noir. Here I usu-ally spend a little more. The best Pinot Noirs from the U.S. are produced in Or-egon. I love the 2008 from Willamette Valley Vineyards ($28). It has aromas of raspberries and cinnamon. Even Uncle John may like this one. An excellent Jer-sey wine here would be the Tomasello Chambourcin ($12.99), full of black cherries and herbs. Both will work just fine for turkey and I’ll bet my fussy brother will make those happy moaning sounds after tasting these wines.

We also need to go for a wine with a little sweetness. I want something a little spicy to hold up to all the sage in stuffing, and sweet enough to match with that cranberry sauce. A Riesling would be perfect. Numerous wineries in New Jersey produce a semi-sweet Riesling. One of these wines will run you about $14.99. Washington State Rieslings are also beautiful and great values. Look to Chateau St. Michele for a suitable choice.

Just for fun, get a cranberry wine from Valanzano Winery in Shamong ($8.99). It is tart and sweet at the same time and the aromas of ripe cranber-ries is irresistible. I would also suggest a Niagara from Plagido Winery in Hammonton ($11.99). This is a clas-sic American grape and reminds me of eating wild grapes in the woods. This winery’s version is grapey, spicy and a little sweet. Almost everyone will like it because even though it is sweet, it smells so good even the wine snobs at the table will like it.

Lastly, everyone has pumpkin and apple pie for dessert. Don’t serve coffee yet. Get a bottle of Almathea Late Har-vest Villard ($13.99). They are located in Atco and the apricot aroma will explode from your glass and make you a believer in dessert wines.

You don’t have to include all the above wines but if you just buy a few someone is bound to compliment you on your great choice of wines. And like Thanksgiving, having great choices is very American. Happy Thanksgiving! Wineries and locations can be found by visiting www.newjerseywines.com. CP-0010448733

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IF YOU GO:


Johnson explains. “We thought it would be a great idea for families to come and try different pies before the holidays. If they place a pie order that day, they’ll receive a 10 percent discount.”

With the holidays looming, The Pie Lady Cafe in Moorestown is also getting ready and prides itself on seasonal baking. “During fall our most popular pies are pumpkin, apple crumb and pecan,” says baker and owner, Christine McHale.

McHale, who opened the Pie Lady Café in its quaint Victorian house location about three years ago after baking pies for 10 years in her home kitchen says, “We make everything here from scratch, includ-ing our hand-rolled crust and all the fruits we use are fresh. The favorites seem to be our blueberry, apple and coconut custard but we welcome and gladly accommodate any customer special requests.”

To that end, McHale says she’s made mango cream and dry bottom shoo fly pies and enjoyed the challenge of making a cinnamon pie. “I’d never baked one be-fore but I took a recipe for southern chess pie and adapted it. It was totally decadent; made with butter, eggs, sugar, cream, vanilla and, of course, lots of cinnamon. It tasted like a pecan pie without the pecans and the customer loved it.”

Cafe pies range in price from $17.00-22.00 and like Penza and Johnson, McHale also makes gluten and sugar free pies and although most of her pies are special order, she still bakes and slices a tasty selection each morning for café customers to enjoy.

But whether you opt for a flaky cre-ation baked by one these experts or prefer to pull out the rolling pin and make one yourself, one fact is certain; culinary tastes may change but the simply delicious pie will always be a faithful favorite.

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The Medford Business AssociationPO Box 981 Medford NJ 08055

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Imagine, if you can, an existence completely devoid of stress. No one hassling you. No worry-ing about how you’re going

to make the mortgage payment, or where your next meal is coming from. Living off the figurative fat of the land — which, incidentally, is free of unnatural chemicals. And, when your number is called, being blissfully ignorant of all the implica-tions and circumstances.

Minus perhaps the occasional irritation of a pesky fly or gnat, this is the idyllic life of the bovine that roams the 100 acres of The Jennings Farm in Medford. And when, alas, these cows are led to their (kinder, gentler) slaughter, the fruits of this peachy existence are evident in the resulting beef.

If your life were this tranquil, wouldn’t you be far more appetiz-ing?

This is largely what motivates practitioners of sustainable agricul-ture — a movement that, at least in New Jersey, isn’t so easy to sustain, given the Garden State’s high prop-erty taxes, complicated regulations and endless red tape.

Yet sisters Mary Beth Melton

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providing free health screenings and a free dental clinic. The goal has also expanded from nourishing the body to feeding the mind as well, with an eye toward facilitating employment.

Cathedral Kitchen gets its food dona-tions from such businesses as Darden restaurant group, BJ’s Wholesale Club and Wegmans supermarket, as well as buying foods it may need. The meals are prepared by a professional cooking staff and served by volunteers in dinner seatings .

“The people who come to us for din-ner do not stand on line to get a plate,” says Cinelli, the organization’s program manager. “They’re seated and they’re served. It’s very important to us. The feeling is, if you went somewhere to eat a meal, you’d like to be treated with respect and with dignity, and it’s a goal of ours to do that to everyone who walks through the door.”

Cinelli was hired to develop programs to meet Cathedral Kitchen’s broader focus. The first, which started two years ago, was a culinary arts school that has placed gradu-ates of the 17-week training program with area restaurants and businesses, such as Wegmans, Tortilla Press Cantina, Andreotti’s Viennese Café and Aramark. (Cinelli teaches in the program, now on its sixth class.)

The program, conducted twice a year, is free to those enrolled but there is a rigorous application process; many of the eventual students are referred to Cathedral Kitchen, and once enrolled they are provided with course materials and their chef uniforms, everything to make them job-ready.

“The concept is that we assist people, and it’s based largely on their own efforts – by studying and attending classes, taking the exams – that they can develop a career path that ultimately leads them to be self-sufficient,” says Cinelli.

Sorting canned goods at the Food Bank.

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Starr Restaurant’s newly opened Fishtown beer hall is a gem, a convivial spot designed to spark conversation and good cheer. The reclaimed ga-rage offers a charming outdoor patio, planted with Linden trees and lined with long tables. Order a liter of an im-port like Franziskaner Hefeweizen and line up to place your food order at the kitchen window, more of a counter re-ally, behind which chef James Davison, a Camden native, oversees a smart menu of favorites. Gnaw away at the oversize Bavarian pretzel, nibble on potato pancakes with smoked salmon and then do your wurst. Bought from Illg’s Meats in Chalfont, Pa., the array includes bratwurst, hot bauernwurst, weisswurst, kasekrainer, knockwurst and even a vegetarian option. There’s a condiment station, where sweet mustard, curried ketchup and Dijon await. The spaetzle with bacon and mushrooms is delish, as is the outstanding spit- roasted half chicken, so juicy and delectable. The vibe here is great, surely a glimpse into how much fun Oktoberfest really must be.


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In a bit of irony not lost on chef Walter Staib, formally celebrating Okto-berfest is verboten at City Tavern, the sophisticated restaurant he oversees within Independence National Historic Park. A German by birth, Staib hails from Pforzheim, a notable city in the Black Forest, arguably Germany’s finest gastronomic region. The problem for City Tavern is that Oktoberfest postdates the American Revolution by 34 years, which doesn’t jibe with the restaurant’s colonial theme. But that doesn’t mean Staib, who appears regularly in his nationally syndicated “A Taste of His-tory,” on PBS, doesn’t give his customers a taste of the real Germany. From beef roulade stuffed with bacon, to sweet and sour red cabbage to schnitzel and a killer smoked pork chop, City Tavern dishes the real deal. His wursts, made by Rieker’s Prime Meats, a second-generation family of German butchers, have the snap and spice of the real thing. “People think there’s one kind of German food,” says Staib. “Is there one kind of Italian or French food? Each German region has its own specialties. The gastronomy is tremendous.”

City Tavern138 S. 2nd St. Philaelphia(215) 413-1443www.citytavern.com

Frankford Hall1210 Frankford Ave. Philadelphia(215) 634-3338www.frankfordhall.com


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McGillin’s Olde Ale House1310 Drury St.Philadelphia(215) 735-5562www.mcgillins.com

Beer has been flowing from the taps at McGillin’s on Drury Street since the year Lincoln was elected president. In the Mullins family since 1958, this friendly taproom is all fun, all the time. And when it comes to Oktoberfest, it’s never too soon to roll out special brews like Stoudt’s Fest and Flying Fish’s Octoberfestbier. Then again, as Chris Mullins Jr. says, “Any excuse for a party, from Mardi Gras to Oprah’s retirement. We start decorating for Christmas in the beginning of November. Our cus-tomers come here to have a good time.” With German-born chef John Campe in the kitchen, the crowd clamors for Old Country specialties like a platter of German beer-braised wursts , slow-cooked sauerbraten with mashed potatoes and wiener schnitzel with red cabbage. The restaurant typically throws a block party in conjunction with the Mid-town Village Fall Festival, creating an outdoor beer garden complete with fun for the kids, karaoke and more. “We’re not trying to be a German restaurant,” says Mullins, “We just want our guests to get some Okto-berfest flavor and have some fun.”

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They’re a tight-knit group in a high-pressure job, spending nights dishing out delicious food for big crowds.

Chefs? Think again.These guys are firefighters, and though they went to the fire academy, not a cu-linary school, most of them know their way around the kitchen.For as long as firehouses have been around, so has the tradition of firefight-ers cooking and eating meals together.

Just ask Mark Scian of the Cherry Hill Fire Department. As his shift’s unofficial “primary chef,” Scian takes cooking responsibilities seriously.“It’s a matter of survival. You get as-signed to a shift and decide who can cook the best, and then you just fall into that position,” he said.Scian gets support from fellow foodie firefighter Bob Little.

“For a while I was really cook-ing a lot,” he said, “But since Bob was transferred here, he’s been able to help me out.”

Given the unpredictable nature of a firefighter’s job, Scian often has little time to buy ingredients and prep for meals.

“Usually in the course of

our travels we decide how many of us are going to be there for dinner and buy the ingredients,” he said. “Sometimes we plan ahead and other times we just pick something; we don’t always have time to plan things out.”

And sometimes, a fire alarm can disrupt the best-laid meal plans.

“(An alarm) could be at 8 a.m. when we start our shift, or it could be at 6 p.m. when we’re sitting down for dinner,” said Scian. “We just have to roll with the punches; it’s part of our job.” Scian draws inspiration from grow-ing up in a traditional Italian family of cooks. But he describes himself as largely experimental in the kitchen, sometimes going by the recipe and other times gathering ingredients that are popular at the station and seeing what he can come up with.

“A lot of times I’m just trying to clean out the fridge, and make use of what we have,” he said. Scian said his fellow Cherry Hill firefighters also offer culinary tips. The most qualified might be Tom McGovern,

T

Continued from Page 38Story by Meghan Montagna Photos by Jose F. Moreno

Firefighters at dinner time (left to right), Bob Little, Len Corris, Chris Lenny, and Mark Scian.


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who actually attended culinary school and worked as a chef before changing his career path.

“In high school I decided I wanted to cook, so I went to vocational school for two years,” said McGovern.

After a decade of working in the restaurant business, he decided the industry wasn’t suited to life as a family man. So he signed up for the fire academy, following in the footsteps of his father, a now-retired Newark firefighter.

“It seemed like the only logical thing to do,” he explained, citing the tradition of firefighters in his family. “I figured, ‘All I have to do is pass the test, and then they’ll teach me everything I need to know.’”

But he hasn’t hung up the apron for good. In fact, McGovern does the majority of cooking on his shift, which he said gives him “the best of both worlds.”

The firefighters also jump at the chance to practice their kitchen skills outside the station.

Every year the Cherry Hill Fire De-partment volunteers at the Muscular Dys-trophy Association’s weeklong kids’ camp held in Worcester, Pa. They compete with a slew of other fire departments in the New Jersey/Pennsylvania area to cook meals for the campers.

“We realized the food for the kids wasn’t that great, so we started cooking lunch and dinner,” said Scian. At the end of the camp, the children vote on the best meal they had all week from the fire de-partments. “It’s an unofficial ‘silver spatula’ award,” he said. “It’s been a great tradition of us volunteering our time.”

The food for the camp is donated by the firefighters and sponsors from their hometowns.

“We get a lot of support year-round from grocery stores in town,” said Scian, citing Wegmans and ShopRite as two big boosters. “They give us water, food, gift cards for stores so we can get what we need . . . and we go to them for various fundrais-



Firefighters Mark Scian and Bob Little stirring up dinner.

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INGREDIENTS •4 to 5 lbs. boneless skinless chicken breasts•2 green bell peppers•2 red peppers•1 Vidalia onion•2 lbs. broccoli florets, fresh•4 cups instant rice•2 12-oz. cans of water chestnuts•2 12-oz. cans of baby corn•16 oz. teriyaki marinade

1. Clean, trim and cut chicken into bite-size pieces.

2. Cut peppers and onions into thin strips.

3. Warm a large skillet with a light coating of olive oil. Cook chicken just short of completion in a covered pan and drain excess liquid from pan. Coat chicken with teriyaki marinade and put on low burner and simmer, stirring fre-quently until completely cooked. Cover and keep warm until veg-etables are ready.

Recipe courtesy of Cherry Hill Fire Department Station 6, Burnt Mill and Haddonfield roads

Stir-Fry Chicken

4. While cooking chicken, warm another large pan with a light coating of olive oil and place pep-pers and onions in pan. Sauté on medium heat until vegetables are softened and almost cooked. Add teriyaki marinade, water chest-nuts and baby corn into pan and stir frequently until vegetables are cooked.

5. Steam broccoli for 3 to 4 min-utes in a pot with a steamer bas-ket. Steam just as you’re complet-ing chicken and vegetables.

6. Cook rice as per instructions, 5 to 7 minutes prior to serving meal.

5. Mix chicken and vegetables together and place on a platter, top with the steamed broccoli and serve over rice or keep rice separate.

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BOWLED OVER

Spice things up with pumpkin salt-and-pepper sets from Pottery Barn. $19.50

LEAVES OF THREE

Carolyn Kinder crimson autumn leaves platters are available as a set of three at www.amazon.com and fine area shops. $106 for set of three.

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Enjoy the camaraderie of other fans before the game at a tailgate party. Coleman’s Fold N Go Grill can cook enough for five people and runs on a 16.4-ounce propane cylinder. $80 Enjoy a little Jazz …

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ing events throughout the year.”Whether the firefighters are joking

around the dinner table and critiquing the chef, or out saving lives, they are building an important camaraderie. Their “fam-ily” dinners help them maintain a sense of normalcy when they have to spend extended periods of time away from their actual families, at their home away from home. “It’s part of the tradition of firehouses, eating together,” said Scian, “And that hasn’t changed much. There are budget cuts, and things change, but we try to maintain as much tradition as we can.”


Roasted Lemon Garlic Chicken

INGREDIENTS •4 to 4 ½ lbs. chicken breasts and thighs (skin on and bone in)•2 Heads garlic, separated into unpeeled cloves•3 Lemons, cut into chunky eighths•½ lb. sliced bacon, diced•Handful fresh thyme•2 Tbsp. olive oil•½ Cup chicken stock•½ Cup white wine•Black pepper, to taste•Salt, to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. 2. Place chicken into a roasting pan and add the garlic cloves, lemon wedges, bacon and thyme. (Remove leaves from stems. ) Add the oil and using your clean hands, mix everything together, then spread the mixture out, making sure all the chicken pieces are skin-side up.3. Add the white wine and chicken stock and grind pepper over the chicken (to taste), then cover tightly with foil and put in the oven to cook, for 2 hours. (This allows all the flavors to marry.)4. Remove foil from roasting pan and raise oven temperature to 400 degrees.Cook the uncovered chicken for another 30 to 40 minutes. (This will nicely brown the skin of the chicken and caramelize the garlic and lem-ons. Don’t worry if the edges of the lemon burn, it adds to the flavor.)5. Spoon roasting juices over chicken and serve in roasting pan.

Serves: 4 to 6

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