ha long bay climbing...deep water soloing: - hawaii 5-0 13 climbs, 5c to 7b - crag x 5 climbs, 6a to...

HA LONG BAY CLIMBINGCollected material from Ha Long Bay climbing pioneers and ongoing developments.

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In the summer of 2015, Asia Outdoors began compiling a new rock climbing guide for Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island. The author and edi-tors soon realised including all known developed areas would require more than one book. Concerns were also raised regarding inclusion of areas with old, deeply corroded bolts and anchors. Ultimately, a decision was made to include Sport Climbing and DWS areas easily reached as part of a one-day excursion from Cat Ba Island.

This raised a question regarding what to do with notes concerning many other crags throughout Ha Long Bay. Instead of simply archiving history and beta, all additional known crag information was compiled into a single PDF to be made freely available.

This document contains all the infor-mation gathered through the process of building the 2016 Asia Outdoors rock climbing guidebook that was not ultimately included in the book.

Crags contained in this document have been bolted over the years by various individuals and expeditions. Some crags’ names have been updated, with consultation, due to confusion created by duplicate names or new information regarding location. These include Jellyfish Crag/All Swell That End Swell, Chopstick Island/The Corkscrew, and Polish Pillar/Hon Dua.

Many crags need rebolting before being safe to climb again. Please be aware that, for some of these areas, there is very little information recorded. Therefore, this document may contain errors.

INTRODUCTION

HA LONG BAY CLIMBINGA rock climbing and deep water soloing guide of Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island

Asia Outdoors | Luca De Giorgi

To find out more about the Asia Outdoors rock climbing guidebook, visit:www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn

Asia Outdoors welcomes suggestions, critiques or new material to add to this document. Please direct any corre-spondence to: [email protected]

Photo credits: If not specified other-wise, photos are taken by climbers listed as the sector’s FA.

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The 2016 Asia Outdoors climbing guidebook contains detailed information about sport climbing and DWS in the following areas on Cat Ba Island and in the surrounding bays:

DEEP WATER SOLOING:- Hawaii 5-0 13 climbs, 5c to 7b- Crag X 5 climbs, 6a to 6c- Three Brothers 17 climbs, 4+ to 7c- Tung Thit 16 climbs, 6a to 7b- Jellyfish Wall 15 climbs, 4+ to 7a- Andy Cave 9 climbs, 6a to 6c- Never Never Land 13 climbs, 5 to 7c- Jurassic Park 7 climbs, 5 to 7c- Unemployment Wall 8 climbs, 6a to 7b- Hon Dua 7 climbs, 5c to 7a- Pyramid Cave 7 climbs, 6a to 7c- Stingray Wall 12 climbs, 5b to 7b- Bond Bastic 5 climbs, 6b to 7b- Band Tastic 5 climbs, 6a to 7b- Hang Ha Cave 10 climbs, 5a to 7b- Le Mekong 1947 9 climbs, 6b to 7c- Fishermen’s Way 8 climbs, 5c to 7b- Gingerbread 11 climbs, 5 to 6c- Monster Face 3 climbs, 7a to 7b

ASIA OUTDOORS GUIDEBOOK

- Streak of Lightning 1 climb, 7c- Dark Horse 15 climbs, 4 to 7b- Calvin Climb 5 climbs, 5a to 7c- Cathedral Rock 11 climbs, 4+ to 7c- 400 Fahrenheit 19 climbs, 5+ to 7c

SPORT CLIMBING ON CAT BA:- Butterfly Valley. 50 climbs, 4+ to 8a- The Cave 6 climbs, 5c to 7a- The Farm 8 climbs, 5b to 7b- Ben Beo 10 climbs, 6a to 7c

SPORT CLIMBING IN THE BAY:- Moody Beach 6 climbs, 4+ to 6b- Tiger Beach 13 climbs, 5b to 7c- Pirate’s Belly 3 climbs, 5b-7a- The Face 3 climbs, 7a to 7c- Amphitheatre 6 climbs, 6a to 8a- Saigon Wall 3 climbs, 7a- Jules Verne’s World 4 climbs, 7a to 8a- Polish Pillar 3 climbs, 6a to 7c

4 DISCLAIMER

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. Your use of this document indicates your understanding of the risk of serious injury or death as a result of rock climbing or deep water soloing and is an acknowledgement of your responsibility for your own climbing safety while climbing in Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha bay, and Cat Ba Island.

This document only provides information about climbs in the area. It is not an instructional book and cannot replace proper training by a qualified teacher.

The author, editors, and Asia Outdoors accept no liability for injuries, death, or damage caused to or by climbers or any third party. Please use the information in this document in conjunction with your personal judgment and experience. Also note that the content of this book is approximated and may not be verified, accurate, or up to date. We strongly recommend climbers visit the Asia Outdoors office for up to date information on climbing areas and routes.

By using this document and the information it contains, you agree to everything written in this disclaimer.

5ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Thanks to the climbing pioneers, who put Ha Long Bay on climbers maps and contributed to research for the present document: Lee Cujes, Dave Lucas, Greg Child, Lynn Hill, Neil Gresham, Scott Milton, Tim Emmett, Helmut Gargitter, Michael Thaler, Peter Braito, Chris Johnson, Jean Verly and to all the other passionate climbers who explored Ha Long Bay.

My excuses and thanks to all those I am forgetting to mention here.

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2015 Google Earth map data: Google, DigitalGlobe, CNES/Astrium, TerraMetrics.

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INDEX

1. LUY TAM BIET (DAU GO ARCA) 5 sport climbs, 6b to 7b.2. HAI NON 6 sport climbs, 6a to 7b.3. 400 FAHRENHEIT WALL 19 DWS lines, 5+ to 7c.4. CATHEDRAL ROCK 9 DWS lines, 4+ to 7c.5. SUPA TUFA WALL 5 DWS lines, 5+ to 7b.6. DARK HORSE 15 DWS lines, 4+ to 7b.7. KELVIN CLIMB 3 DWS lines, 6a to 7c.8. CRUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE 5 DWS lines 5+ to 6c.9. YEN NGUA (LULWORTH II) 2 DWS lines, 7b+10. MONKEY CAVE 9 DWS lines, 5 to 7b.11. TAXI GIRL (HANG TIEN ONG) 8 sport climbs, 6b to 8a.12. SILVER CAVE (HANG TIEN ONG) Several DWS lines, 6b and harder.13. BOND BASTIC and HANC CA CAVE 9 DWS lines, 4+ to 7c.14. MIKE AND EVA’S CAVE 3 DWS lines, 5+ to 6a.15. HANG DU (TURTLE CAVE, ARCHWAY) 2 DWS lines, 7a to 7c.16. WALHALL ISLAND 1 trad line, 60 m, Brit. E5 6b.17. THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT 6 DWS lines, 6a to 7b.18. JURASSIC PARK 13 DWS lines, 5 to 7c.19. CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND) 1 mixed line, 40 m, 5a20. WITCHE’S NOSE 5 DWS lines, 6a to 7a.21. TUNG THIT 16 climbs, 6a to 7b.22. BIG BEN (TOWER OF PISA) 3 trad lines, 4+ to 6a.23. VAN BOI TRUNG 5 sport lines, 5c to 6c.24. THE BLACK SLAB 1 trad line, 5a.25. TIGER’S CORNER 1 trad line, 5b.26. TON NUOC 1 trad line, 6c.27. THE FACE 3 climbs, 7a to 7c.

28. FISHERMAN’S WAY 18 DWS lines, 5 to 7b.29. SHALLOW GRAVE 2 DWS lines, 6a30. ALL SWELL THAT ENDS SWELL 8 DWS lines, 5 to 7b 31. CERRO TORRE 13 sport climbs, 6a to 8a.32. LAUGHING DOG WALL 22 sport climbs, 5b to 7c.33. LA PLAGE DES PIRATES 15 spot lines, 6a to 8a.

8 LUY TAM BIET (DAU GO ARCA)

GPS: 20°53’59.79”N 107° 1’9.65”E

1. Vampire State Building 6a, 6c, 7b2. Eliza.kom 6c+3. Shaman the Great, 7a4. Bum Bum Massage, 6b5. Miss Halong, 7a+, Helmut Gargitter, Thaler Michael, Bartholomäus Rindler, 2005

Source: Grimper no. 81, http://www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81

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Above left: Greg Child in Luy Tam Biet, source: ‘The Face, six great climbing adven-tures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall

Above right: Helmut Gargitter in Luy Tam Biet, source: Helmut Gargitter.

Left: Lut Tam Biet Wall, source: Pano-ramio.

10 HAI NON

GPS: 20°52’19.55”N 107° 2’33.96”E

Sport climbing at low tide.

1. Three-pitch climb (6a+, 6c+, 6b+)2. Five single pitch sport climbs from 6a+ to 7bHard grading and sparsely bolted

By M. Thaler, B. Rindler und H. Gargitter in 2005

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Source: Michael Thaler

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400°$Fahrenheit$Area$!Aspect! ! ! ! 400!faces!east!and!Cathedral!rock!faces!NE!!Tidal$considerations! There!is!loads!of!water!under!400!and!is!a!better!wall!at!low!tide!as!the!routes!are!

extended.!This!is!why!some!of!the!routes!have!grade!at!low!tide!(LT)!and!high!tide!(HT).! Cathedral! does! have! a! shelf! and! depth! needs! to! be! checked! if! climbing! at!medium!to!low!tide.!

!Location$!! ! ! 400°!Fahrenheit!wall! 20°51'46.50"N! ! 107°!3'10.97"E!! ! ! ! Cathedral!Rock! ! 20°51'38.90"N! ! 107°!3'16.19"E!!

!!Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!7c+!!The$routes$!400°$Fahrenheit$wall!

24. Flambé! ! ! HT! **! 6c! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!LT! **! 6c+! 16m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!

25. Fire!&!Rice!! ! HT! *! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!26. Molten!brambly!apple! HT!! ! 6b+! 9m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!27. Lava!Falls!! ! LT! ***! 6c!! 16m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!28. Lava!Java! ! LT! *! 7a! 16m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!29. That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! *! 6a! 16m!! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!30. Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!32. Thrush! ! ! HT! *! 7a! 12m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!

Scratching!the!itch! LT! **! Project!! 16m!33. Toasty! ! ! LT! ***! 7a+/7b! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!

N/B!try!the!bread!and!cheese!dyno!start!(Vu!Nguyen)!34. Crème!brûlée! ! LT! **! 7a+! 11m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!

HT! ! 7a!

400 FAHRENHEIT AREA

Climbing on 400° Fahrenheit was first recorded in 2012 by Dave Lucas and the Expedition Consultancy. First recorded ascents by: Alex Twist, Dave Lucas, Dan Webber, Sam Harvie, Vu Nguyen and Ruth Murdie.

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HT! ! 7a!

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35. Pop!Tart!! ! LT! ***! 7a+! 14m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!36. Ring!of!fire! ! HT! ***! 7c+! 14m! Vu!Nguyen! ! 19/11/12!37. To!the!shrubbery!and!beyond.! **! 7a! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!38. I!poke!badgers!with!hot!spoons.! *! 7b! 11m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!39. Baked!Alaska.! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 19/11/12!40. Vanuatu.! ! ! ! 5+! 10m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!41. I!fight!cats!in!flaming!loincloths.! ! 6b+! 7m! Sam!Harvie! ! 20/11/12!42. Goat!man! ! ! ! 6b! 8m! Dan!Webber! ! 20/11/12!

!Cathedral$Rock$

1. Fragile!Earth! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!2. The!church!mouse!! ! *! 6a!S1! 6m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!3. Evolution! ! !! ***! 7c! 8m! Charles!Darwin! ! 20/11/12!4. Intelligent!design!! ! ***! 7a!! 16m! Chris!Hitchens! ! 20/11/12!5. Leap!from!faith! ! ! ***! 7a! 15m! Alex!Twist! ! 20/11/12!6. Higgs!Boson! ! ! **! 7a! 15m!! Prof!Brian!Cox! ! 20/11/12!7. The!Godfather! ! ! *! 7a! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 20/11/12!8. The!God!Delusion!! ! **! 7a! 15m! Richard!Dawkins! ! 20/11/12!9. I!have!more!faith!in!a!shadow! ! 6b! 12m! Ferdinand!Magellan! 20/11/12!

The!route!goes!up!dirty!corner!right!of!line!on!topo!and!then!steps!round!the!arête.!!

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HT! ! 7a!

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400° FAHRENHEIT

1. FLAMBÉ - 6c (HT); 6c+ (LT)2. FIRE AND RICE - 6b (HT)3. MOLTEN BRAMBLY APPLE - 6b+ (HT)4. LAVA FALLS - 6c (LT)5. LAVA JAVA - 7a (LT)6. THAT’S NOT A BURNING BUSH - 6a (LT)7. SUN SCREAM - 6b (HT)8. BAN MARIE - 6b+/6c9. THRUSH - 7a (HT)10. TOASTY - 7a+/7b (LT)11. CRÈME BRÛLÉE - 7a+ (LT); 7a (HT)12. POP TART - 7a+ (LT)13. RING OF FIRE - 7c+ (HT)14. TO THE SHRUBBERY AND BEYOND - 7a15. I POKE BADGERS WITH HOT SPOONS - 7b16. BAKED ALASKA - 6a17. VANUATU - 5+18. I FIGHT CATS IN FLAMING LOINCLOTHS - 6b+19. GOAT MAN - 6b

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A

CATHEDRAL ROCK (Lion’s Face)

Climbing on Cathedral Rock, aka Lion’s Face, was first recorded by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, and Seb Grieve in 2003. The crag was further explored in 2012 by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy. First recorded ascents by: Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, Ruth Murdie, Charles Darwin, Alex Twist, and Ferdinand Magellan.

GPS: 20°51’38.90”N 107° 3’16.19”E

1. FRAGILE EARTH - 4+2. THE CHURCH MOUSE - 6aA. ZARATHUSTRA - 7c+3. EVOLUTION - 7c4. ARACHNOPHOBIA - 7baka Intelligent Design.5. TARANTULA - 7baka Leap of Faith.6. TUG BOAT - 7aaka Higgs Boson.7. EYELESS IN CAT BA - 6caka The Godfather.

8. THE QUIET AMERICAN - 6b+aka God DelusionB. GOLDEN TRIANGLE - 7a9. I HAVE MORE FAITH IN A SHADOW - 6b

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Supa$Tufa$Wall$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!not!exposed!to!swell.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!hard!to!access!at!

lower!tides.!!Location$!! ! ! 20°51'16.27"N! 107°!5'50.85"E!! ! ! !!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a/b!!!The$routes$

1. Sinner!Man! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!2. Supa!Tufa!! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 18/11/12!3. Great!Expectations! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Alex!Twist! 18/11/12!4. Vavavuum! ! ! ! **! 7a! 17m! Vu!Nguyen! 18/11/12!5. Oven!dish! ! ! ! *! 7a/b! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!

!

SUPA TUFA WALL

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Supa$Tufa$Wall$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!not!exposed!to!swell.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!hard!to!access!at!

lower!tides.!!Location$!! ! ! 20°51'16.27"N! 107°!5'50.85"E!! ! ! !!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a/b!!!The$routes$

1. Sinner!Man! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!2. Supa!Tufa!! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 18/11/12!3. Great!Expectations! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Alex!Twist! 18/11/12!4. Vavavuum! ! ! ! **! 7a! 17m! Vu!Nguyen! 18/11/12!5. Oven!dish! ! ! ! *! 7a/b! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!

!

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.

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Dark$Horse$Area$!Aspect! ! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! Faces!south.!! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! Faces!northwest!through!to!northeast.!! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle$$ Faces!northwest.!$Tidal$considerations! All!should!be!considered!a!high!tide!crag,!but!can!be!managed!at!lower!tides!with!depth!

checking.!Be!aware!of!a!shelf!to!the!left!(when!facing)!of!Vajazzel!on!Kelvin!Climb.!!Location$!! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! 20°50'11.95"N! 107°!6'39.55"E!! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! 20°49'47.91"N! 107°!6'47.40"E!! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle! 20°49'43.77"N! 107°!6'46.23"E!!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c+!!The$routes$!Dark$Horse$

9. Captain! ! ! ! *! 6a+! 10m! Dan!Webber! 11/11/12!10. GI!Joe! ! !! ! *! 6a! 10m! Alex!Twist! 11/11/12!11. Buzz!Lightyear! !! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!12. Crescent!crack! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!13. Stick!or!twist! ! ! **! 6c! 10m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!

Submerged!ledge!here!14. Corner!Store! ! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!15. Arete.!don’t!shoot! ! **!! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 11/12/12!16. Photo!shoot! ! ! **! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!17. Cheat! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 8m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!18. Pré!Vu! ! ! ! ***! 7a+! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 12/11/12!19. Déjà!Vu! ! ! ! **! 7b+! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!

DARK HORSE AREA


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20. Dark!Horse! ! ! ***! 7a! 15m! Mike!Hutton! 12/11/12!21. Leading!Line! ! ! **! 6a+! 30m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!22. Ivana!Humpalot! ! ! ! 4+! 12m! Eva!Rhode! 12/11/12!23. Rovers!Return! ! ! ! 4!S1! 10m!Ruth!Murdie!! 12/11/12!

!Crumble$in$the$jungle$

7. Crunch!your!nuts!! ! ! 6a! 8m! Russel! ! 12/11/12!8. Cheerios!! ! ! ! 6a! 9m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!9. Enema! ! ! ! ! 6a+! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!10. Snap!crackle!and!plop! ! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!11. Shredded!feet! ! ! ! 6c! 11m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!12. Crunchy!! ! ! *!! 5+! 6m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!13. Flake! ! ! ! ! 5+! 6m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!14. Mike! ! ! ! ! 5! 6m!! Mike!Hutton! 12/11/12! !

!Kelvin$Climb$

1. Vajazzel! ! ! ! ! 6a! 9m! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!2. Brazilian!! ! ! **! 6c! 9m! Dan!Webber! 13/11/12!3. Kelvin!Climb! ! ! ***! 7c+! 9m! Vu!Nguyen! 13/11/12!

Extension!from!ledge!is!6b!for!a!further!12!m! Vu!Nguyen!13/11/12!4. ?! ! ! ! ! ! 9m! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!5. ?! ! ! ! ! ! ?! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!

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Dark$Horse$Area$!Aspect! ! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! Faces!south.!! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! Faces!northwest!through!to!northeast.!! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle$$ Faces!northwest.!$Tidal$considerations! All!should!be!considered!a!high!tide!crag,!but!can!be!managed!at!lower!tides!with!depth!

checking.!Be!aware!of!a!shelf!to!the!left!(when!facing)!of!Vajazzel!on!Kelvin!Climb.!!Location$!! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! 20°50'11.95"N! 107°!6'39.55"E!! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! 20°49'47.91"N! 107°!6'47.40"E!! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle! 20°49'43.77"N! 107°!6'46.23"E!!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c+!!The$routes$!Dark$Horse$

9. Captain! ! ! ! *! 6a+! 10m! Dan!Webber! 11/11/12!10. GI!Joe! ! !! ! *! 6a! 10m! Alex!Twist! 11/11/12!11. Buzz!Lightyear! !! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!12. Crescent!crack! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!13. Stick!or!twist! ! ! **! 6c! 10m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!

Submerged!ledge!here!14. Corner!Store! ! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!15. Arete.!don’t!shoot! ! **!! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 11/12/12!16. Photo!shoot! ! ! **! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!17. Cheat! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 8m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!18. Pré!Vu! ! ! ! ***! 7a+! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 12/11/12!19. Déjà!Vu! ! ! ! **! 7b+! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!

Blue Eyed Scissors, 5aWater Monkey, 5a

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26 YEN NGUA aka LULWORTH II

This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve & Grant Farquhar.

GPS: 20°51’22.16”N 107° 6’11.76”E

1) Nietzche Had it, 7b+, Tim Emmett2) Rockin the Cat Ba, 7b+, Neil Gresham

28 MONKEY CAVE

Monkey Cave GPS Aspect North Tide Climbable only at high tide and even at HT water depth was only just over 2.5m in depth. Swell Sheltered but prone to wash from speed boats Notes Project – The cave lip was climbed as a hand traverse from left to right, but the climber stopped 5 moves from the right side due to sharp rock the climbing to that point was graded XXX. Routes 1. Monkey spunk 6a+ 9m 16/11/14 Matthew Kerfoot 2. Bab-‐BOOM 5+ 11m 16/11/14 Dan Webber 3. *Monkey Around 5+ 9m 16/11/14 Alex Twist 4. Banana Fingers 5+ 9m 16/11/14 Jon Thorne 5. Northern Monkey 6b+ 9m 16/11/14 Tom Booth 6. **Monkey See Monkey Vu 7b+ 9m 16/11/14 Vu Nguyen 7. *King of the swingers 6a+ 9m 16/11/14 Dan Webber 8. 75 to go 5 9m 16/11/14 Matthew Kerfoot 9. Monkey King Baa 6a 9m 16/11/14 Thierry Buermann

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012GPS: 20°49’33.03”N 107° 6’12.12”E

30 TAXI GIRL, HANG TIEN ONG

GPS: 20°48’59.00”N 107° 7’20.00”E

Source: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81

Source: Panoramio

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Hang$Ca$Cave$and$Bond$Bastic$!Aspect! ! ! ! Bond!bastic!faces!east!and!Hang!Ca!Cave!faces!west!!Tidal$considerations! Both!were!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!at!low!tide.!!Location$!! ! ! Bond!Bastic!! 20°48'12.03"N! 107°!5'58.31"E!! ! ! ! Hang!Ca!Cave! 20°48'0.74"N! 107°!5'49.15"E!!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c!!The$routes$(Which$are$in$addition$to$the$ones$in$the$1st$edition$guidebook)$!Bond$Bastic$

6. Sky!Fall! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!7. Shaken!not!stirred! ! !! **! 6c! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!8. A!Vu!to!a!kill! !! ! ***! 7c! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!

!Hang$Ca$Cave$

1. Vu!luptuous! ! ! *! 7b! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!2. Ratatouille! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! 10/11/12!3. Pretentious!naming! ! ! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 10/11/12!4. Linguistic!exuberance! ! ! 6b! 11m! Dan!Webber! 10/11/12!5. A!bridge!Tu]fa! ! ! **! 7b+! 10m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!

This!climbs!along!the!cave!roof!on!tufas!to!the!double!holed!one!where!a!project!continues!up!to!the!tree.!6. A!hole!lot!of!love! ! ! *!! 6b! 14m! Sam!Harvie! 10/11/12! !

BOND BASTIC


12 !

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Hang$Ca$Cave$and$Bond$Bastic$!Aspect! ! ! ! Bond!bastic!faces!east!and!Hang!Ca!Cave!faces!west!!Tidal$considerations! Both!were!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!at!low!tide.!!Location$!! ! ! Bond!Bastic!! 20°48'12.03"N! 107°!5'58.31"E!! ! ! ! Hang!Ca!Cave! 20°48'0.74"N! 107°!5'49.15"E!!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c!!The$routes$(Which$are$in$addition$to$the$ones$in$the$1st$edition$guidebook)$!Bond$Bastic$

6. Sky!Fall! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!7. Shaken!not!stirred! ! !! **! 6c! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!8. A!Vu!to!a!kill! !! ! ***! 7c! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!

!Hang$Ca$Cave$

1. Vu!luptuous! ! ! *! 7b! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!2. Ratatouille! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! 10/11/12!3. Pretentious!naming! ! ! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 10/11/12!4. Linguistic!exuberance! ! ! 6b! 11m! Dan!Webber! 10/11/12!5. A!bridge!Tu]fa! ! ! **! 7b+! 10m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!

This!climbs!along!the!cave!roof!on!tufas!to!the!double!holed!one!where!a!project!continues!up!to!the!tree.!6. A!hole!lot!of!love! ! ! *!! 6b! 14m! Sam!Harvie! 10/11/12! !

HANG CA CAVE

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012 and 2014.GPS: 20 48’0.74”N 107 5’49.15”E

Hang Ca Cave Aspect South West Tide Climbable at low tide, though access to the right hand routes becomes more difficult. Access to the crag at high tide is possible by basket boat, though requires careful navigation through the cave. Swell Very sheltered lagoon with very calm waters. Notes The cave is popular with tourists in kayak s, and they will need diverting away from drop zones. Noise should be kept to a minimum to avoid disturbing monkeys around the lagoon. It is possible to access routes via kayak or basket boats with the engines turned off if police ask you to move on.

1. Vu Luptutous 7b 16m * 10/11/12 Vu Nguyen 2. Little Tiddler 6b 7m 14/11/14 Tom Booth 3. Loony Tunes 5+ 7m ?? ?? 4. Bass Ackwards 6b(S2) 11m ?? ?? 5. Kes 6c(S1) 17m ** 14/11/14 Alex Twist 6. Best Bib and Tucker 6a+ 11m * ?? ?? 7. Shangri La 7c(S2) 19m *** 14/11/14 Ben Heason 8. Ratatouille 5+ 6m 10/11/12 Ruth Murdie 9. Pretentious Naming 6b 10m * 10/11/12 Dave Lucas 10. Linguistic Exuberance 6b+ 10m 10/11/12 Dan Webber 11. A Bridge Tufa 7b+ 10m ** 10/11/12 Vu Nguyen Boulders out of the cave on large stalactites. Finish at tufa with two holes. 12. Bat Mobile 7b 12m ?? ?? 13. Good Recovery 6c 10m 14/11/14 Dan Webber 14. Whole Lotta Love 6b 14m * 10/12/14 Sam Harvie

34

10

Mike$&$Eva’s$Cave$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!quite!exposed!and!may!get!swell!the!swell.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!access!

the!cave!roof!at!lower!tides.!This!is!a!high!tide!venue!!Location$!! ! ! 20°48'5.05"N! 107°!7'47.65"E!! ! ! !!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!Project!!!The$routes$

1. Mực! ! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!2. Cá! ! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!3. Cơm! ! ! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!

The!main!draw!to!this!venue!will!be!the!roof!of!the!cave,!it!is!very!close!to!Turtle!cave!and!is!worth!a!visit!but!does!not!have!much!more!potential!then!that.!We!do!not!have!an!image!for!the!crag!!

!

MIKE AND EVA’S CAVE


35HANG DU aka ARCHWAY, TURTLE CAVE

This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve & Grant Farquhar.

GPS: 20°47’50.85”N 107° 8’10.41”E 1) HO CHI MINH 7c+, Neil Gresham

Carolyn Conant on Hang Du. Pic by Jake Squier

36

WALHALLA ISLAND - ‘Boat People’ FA: Greg Child & Andy Parkin GPS: 20°47’30.94”N 107° 6’54.83”E

Source: ‘The Face, six great climbing adventures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall

WALHALLA ISLAND

37

Left: Greg Child and Andy Parkin on ‘Boat People’, source: ‘The Face, six great climbing adventures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall

Below: Walhalla Island, source: LDG.

38 THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT

The Land that Time Forgot (left) Aspect South Tide Left side of the wall can be accessed easily at any tide, the rest of the wall is easier at high tide. The water has plenty of depth. Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell. Notes Routes

1. The Serpent 7a+ ** 13m 18/11/14 Vu Nguyen 2. Finger surgery 6b+ ** 8m 20/11/14 Tom Booth

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.GPS: 20°47’8.19”N 107° 6’14.25”

The Land that Time Forgot (right) Aspect West Tide No complications due to the tide. Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell. Notes Routes

1. On the wing 6a+ * 9m 19/11/14 Jon Thorne

39

The Land that Time Forgot (left) Aspect South Tide Left side of the wall can be accessed easily at any tide, the rest of the wall is easier at high tide. The water has plenty of depth. Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell. Notes Routes

1. The Serpent 7a+ ** 13m 18/11/14 Vu Nguyen 2. Finger surgery 6b+ ** 8m 20/11/14 Tom Booth

The Land that Time Forgot (right) Aspect West Tide No complications due to the tide. Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell. Notes Routes

1. On the wing 6a+ * 9m 19/11/14 Jon Thorne

40

The Land that Time Forgot (central) Aspect West Tide No complications due to the tide. Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell. Notes Routes

1. Scrabble 7a 11m 20/11/14 Ben Heason 2. Artful Dodger 7b * 9m 20/11/14 Vu Nguyen 3. Rock out w your cock out 6b+ * 9m 20/11/14 Andrew Bishop

THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT

41JURASSIC PARK

Jurassic Park main wall Aspect Tide Best suited to mid -‐ high tides too shallow for very low tides. Swell Relatively calm compared to Jelly Fish Crag, but does see some slight swell. Notes Some of the early routes finish on very sharp rock, for added enjoyment. Routes

1. Sick Boy 6b * 15m Dan Webber 19/11/14 2. L.O.W.G. 6b ** 12m Julian Ganton 19/11/14 3. Baby Spiller 6c *** 15m Tom Booth 19/11/14 4. B. E. A. UTIFUL 7c+ *** 17m Vu Nguyen 19/11/14 5. Back Flip for Glory 6c+ *** 17m Dan Webber 20/11/14

Note – First ascentionist back flipped from the finishing holds, which is required for the full tick but is definitely NOT recommended!

6. Charge of the Light Brigade 6c *** 18m Alex Twist 20/11/14 7. Bread Knife Traverse 5 12m Matthew Kerfoot 20/11/14

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012GPS: 20°47’8.87”N 107° 6’15.55”E

42

Jurassic Park inner wall Aspect North Tide No complications with low tide. Swell Notes Routes

1. Battery Drain 7a * 15m 19/11/14 Ben Heason

43

Jurassic Park left end Aspect East Tide No complications due to low tide Swell Notes Routes

1. Energy Crisis 6c * 17m 19/11/14 Ben Heason 2. Happy Masseur 6a+ 11m 19/11/14 Alex Twist 3. Berocca 6a * 9m 20/11/14 Matthew Kerfoot 4. Jump Face 6a+ * 17m 21/11/14 Andrew Bishop

44 THE CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND)

THE CORKSCREW - ‘Faith No More’ FA: Erik Ferjentsik - 2008GPS: 20°46’46.96”N 107° 7’4.50”E

40 m, 11 Bolts, Mixed, 5a

Very fun and run out crag access route in anticipation of more routes on the north-west faces. It’s all about the view from the top here. Start at an extended base easy to jump from your boat to. Scramble up into the cave area with really friendly featured white rock for the first bolt. Traverse left to avoid the overhang and into a dihedral and then right around the arete to the face. The anchor is six meters below the summit.

Notes from Gavi Piper:Climbed 12/2015. Found eight bolts, not including anchors, although vegetation could easily hide more. On visual inspection the first bolt shows minor surface rust and all others appear to be in good condition. Long slings will help with heavy rope drag. Rappel from the anchor rings; if using a single rope, there’s a good thread just below a small cave about half way down to climber’s right.

Source: LDG

rappel thread

45THE CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND) - DWS

Notes The cave is popular with tourists in kayaks, and they will need diverting away from drop zones. Noise should be kept to a minimum to avoid disturbing monkeys around the lagoon. It is possible to access routes via kayak or basket boats with the engines turned off if police ask you to move on.

Hon Dua (Chopstick Island) Aspect North Tide The walls are very exposed to strong tidal currents and although it was first climbed at high tide the depth was deeper then 3.5m Swell Exposed to the main channel, which runs north to south. Notes There are two bolted lines on the face, but there is no info on these routes. Two further projects possible through the main roof. Routes

1. Hamsters Cheeks 5+ 6m David Wear 13/11/14 2. Force fed 6a+ 6m Alex Twist 13/11/14 3. Kellogs start 5+ 6m David Wear 13/11/14

Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.GPS: 20°46’46.96”N 107° 7’4.50”E

46

3 !

WITCHES NOSE

2

The$Witches$Nose$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!exposed!to!swell.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!climb!

onto!at!low!tide.!Consider!placing!etriers!at!high!tide!to!allow!access!at!low!tide.!!Location$!! ! ! 20°46'46.09"N! 107°!8'6.41"E!! ! ! !

!!!

Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a!!Left$

1. She!turned!me!into!a!newt.!I!got!better.! *! 6c! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!!Central$–$The$nose$

2. The!sorcerer.! ! ! ! **! 7a! 8m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!3. Who!you!calling!BIG!nose?!! ! *! 6b! 13m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!

!Right$

4. What!else!floats!on!water?! ! *! 6b+! 16m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!5. She’s!a!free!thinking!intelligent!woman,!Burn!her!! 6a! 13m! Eva!Rhode! 17/11/12!

!

2

The$Witches$Nose$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!exposed!to!swell.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!climb!

onto!at!low!tide.!Consider!placing!etriers!at!high!tide!to!allow!access!at!low!tide.!!Location$!! ! ! 20°46'46.09"N! 107°!8'6.41"E!! ! ! !

!!!

Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a!!Left$

1. She!turned!me!into!a!newt.!I!got!better.! *! 6c! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!!Central$–$The$nose$

2. The!sorcerer.! ! ! ! **! 7a! 8m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!3. Who!you!calling!BIG!nose?!! ! *! 6b! 13m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!

!Right$

4. What!else!floats!on!water?! ! *! 6b+! 16m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!5. She’s!a!free!thinking!intelligent!woman,!Burn!her!! 6a! 13m! Eva!Rhode! 17/11/12!

!


47

5 $

$$

4 $

$$

48 TUNG THIT

6

Tung$Thit$(opposite$the$amphitheater$crag)$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!cliff!is!a!SE!face!!Tidal$considerations! This!is!a!high!tide!crag!for!DWS!and!care!should!be!taken!on!a!retreating!tide.!

There!is!also!a!rock!under!route!13!!Location$!! ! ! 20°46'42.44"N! ! 107°!3'52.07"E!!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 6a!]!7b!!The$routes$!

1. Vu!do! ! ! ! **! 7b!S1! 11m! Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!2. Diamond!Falcon!Supersonic!! **! 6b! 14m! !Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!3. Could!be!good!! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!4. If!you!can!be!bothered!! ! ! 6c!! 9m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!5. Fagin! ! ! ! *! 7a! 7m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!6. Lamb!chop! ! ! **! 7a! 15m!! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!7. Mint!sauce! ! ! *! 6c! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!8. Slot!Machine! ! ! *! 6c! 7m! Dan!Webber! 08/11/12!

Viii!extension!–!From!large!pocket!continue!to!flake!ledge!6c+!add!on!3m!Sam!Harvie!9. Phosphorescence!! ! *! 6c! 11m! Dan!Webber! 17/11/12!10. Where’s!Wally?! ! ! ! 6a! 8m! Dan!Webber! 08/11/12!11. Green!sleeves! ! ! **! 6b+! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!12. Green!&!pleasant!land! ! *! 6a+! 15m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!13. Got!to!pick!a!pocket!or!Tufa! **! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!14. Postman!Pat! ! ! *! 6c! 11m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!15. Hob!Goblin! ! ! **! 6c! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!16. Vu’s!ledge!end! ! ! *! 7a! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!

6



!!





49

6



!!




7

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50

BIG BEN N WALL - ‘The Gunpowder Plot’ FA: Dave Lucas and Ruth Murdie - 15/11/12GPS: 20°45’57.91”N 107° 5’0.34”E

E1 4a, 4b, 4c, 4c. 10 m, 25 m, 40 m, 15 m. Scramble from the boat up the initial 10 m and find a hanging belay. Then follow the topo to the top. Most of the climbing is on sharp grey rock. So even though the climbing is easy it it important no to fall for risk of injury and or cutting the rope. The last 8 m to the summit have no protection available.

BIG BEN (TOWER OF PISA)

Source: LDG

51

Source: LDG

BIG BEN SW WALL

1| ‘Westminster’ - FA: Alex Twist and Dan Webber - 5/11/2012E1 4b, 4c, 5a, 4a, 5a. 6 m, 15 m, 15 m, 8 m, 50 m.2| ‘Clockworks’ - FA: Calvin Tague and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015Scramble up 6 m to the cave and set up the first anchor. Climb 40 m of 5b to the next anchor and then 65 m to the top, beautiful crack in the first 10 m.

From the top rappel 60 m and then 10 m more to the boat.

1

2

Source: LDG

52 VAN BOI TRONG

GPS: 20° 45.599’N 107° 4.679’E

Renate, 5c. Behind the left corner. Andreas Unterkalmsteiner.Mu, 6a. Thomas Hochkofler.Figgluise, 6c. Peter Braito.Emma, 6a+. Roman Stuefer.Schiff AHOI, 6b+, Klaus Kofler.

Bolted in 2008.

Bolts are heavily rusted and not safe to climb until rebolted. Climbing at your own risk!

54

THE BLACK SLAB - ‘Ross’s Closed Project’ FA: Calvin Tague and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015GPS: 20°45’26.80”N 107° 4’44.00”E

Location: Solitary island 1 km northwest of Tiger Beach. 2 Pitches, 70 m, 5a. Gear: Slings, wires and one set of cams. Difficult access with choppy sea.Rappel with two 60 m ropes to the start.

THE BLACK SLAB

Source: LDG

55

TIGER’S CORNER - ‘What goes up must come down’FA: Chris Johnson and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015GPS: 20°45’31.19”N 107° 3’54.59”E

Location: 300 m east of tiger beach. 2 Pitches, 70 m, 5b. Gear: Slings, wires and one set of cams. Rappel 30 m and 40 m to the bottom.

TIGER’S CORNER

Source: LDG

56

TON NUOC - ‘Crisis averted’ FA: Chris Johnson & Calvin Tague - 2015GPS: 20°43’9.77”N 107° 1’41.39”E

1. Pitch: 25 m, 6c2. Pitch: 20 m, 5b

Located in a truly epic setting inside a cave within an island around a km offshore of Cat Ba Town. Drive the basketboat through a cave opening on the northwest tip of the island and de-light at the wonderous setting. This climb can be found half way up the slope on the right side. And tops out through a small opening on the top of the island.

Bring slings, cams and nuts and a 60 m rope. Rappel down back into the cave.

TON NUOC

57

THE FACE aka Hans Island

GPS: 20°46’8.26”N 107° 8’11.89”E

A beautiful triangular vertical wall, located above a boulder-beach on a small island. This crag now features several bolted sport climbs, the first of which was Nightrider (so named because it was climbed by head torch light on the first ascent)

1) Nightrider, 7b (Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, Neil Gresham)2) Licence to climb, 7a (Erik Ferjentsik)3) Extention, 7c (Lee Cujes)

Photo credits: Neil Gresham)

THE FACE aka HAN’S ISLAND

12

3

58 FISHERMAN’S WAY

This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve & Grant Farquhar and is also featured in Dosage Vol.III.

GPS: 20°45’17.61”N 107° 7’40.19”E

DAUBE (Saigon Wall) 1) Charlie Don’t Surf, 5c, Grant Farquhar2) Ruff Guide to Vietnam, 7a+, Seb Grieve3) Napalm Morning, 7b Neil Gresham4) Good Morning Vietnam, 7a+, Tim5) Apocalypse Now, 7a, Neil Gresham6) Never get out of the boat, 6c, Grant7) Platoon, 7a+, Neil Gresham8) Boat People, 7a, Tim Emmett9) N…n…n…n….ninteeen, 7a+, Neil Gresham

14

Fisherman’s$Way$R$West$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!south!and!is!exposed!to!swell!if!wind!is!southerly!or!westerly.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!

at!low!tide.!Permission$ The!team!did!get!moved!on!by!the!police!and!paid!a!bribe!of!4!beers!(how!dare!

they)!for!their!efforts.!There!are!loads!more!routes!to!go!here.!!Location$!! ! ! Fisherman’s!Way!]!West!! 20°45'17.10"N! 107°!7'39.32"E!! ! ! !!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5!–!6c+!(Project!will!go!at!7b+?)!!Confidence$Wall$

1. Patchwork!perfection! ! ! **! 6c! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!2. Through!the!Ruth!!! ! ! **! 5!S1! 16m! Ruth!Murdie! 14/11/12!

!Unlawful$disorder$wall$

3. Unlawful!disorder! ! ! ***! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!!Bribery$wall$

4. Rude!awakening! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Mike!Hutton! 14/11/12!5. Bribery! ! ! ! ! ! 6b! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!6. Corruption! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!7. Fun!di!Mental! ! ! ! **! 6c+! 12m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!8. Pink!Chalice! ! ! ! *!! 6b! 13m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!9. The!wrestler!project! ! ! **!! 7b+?! ?! !

59FISHERMAN’S WAY - WEST

14

Fisherman’s$Way$R$West$!Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!south!and!is!exposed!to!swell!if!wind!is!southerly!or!westerly.!!Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!

at!low!tide.!Permission$ The!team!did!get!moved!on!by!the!police!and!paid!a!bribe!of!4!beers!(how!dare!

they)!for!their!efforts.!There!are!loads!more!routes!to!go!here.!!Location$!! ! ! Fisherman’s!Way!]!West!! 20°45'17.10"N! 107°!7'39.32"E!! ! ! !!

!!

Grade$overview! ! 5!–!6c+!(Project!will!go!at!7b+?)!!Confidence$Wall$

1. Patchwork!perfection! ! ! **! 6c! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!2. Through!the!Ruth!!! ! ! **! 5!S1! 16m! Ruth!Murdie! 14/11/12!

!Unlawful$disorder$wall$

3. Unlawful!disorder! ! ! ***! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!!Bribery$wall$

4. Rude!awakening! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Mike!Hutton! 14/11/12!5. Bribery! ! ! ! ! ! 6b! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!6. Corruption! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!7. Fun!di!Mental! ! ! ! **! 6c+! 12m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!8. Pink!Chalice! ! ! ! *!! 6b! 13m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!9. The!wrestler!project! ! ! **!! 7b+?! ?! !


GPS: 20°45’17.51”N 107° 7’38.62”E

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62 ALL IS SWELL THAT ENDS SWELL (Jelly Fish Crag)

Jelly Fish crag Aspect East and south Tide Low tide leaves 0.5m under the crag. High tide is required and is advised to climb 2 hours either side of HT. first ascents climbed on a 3.5m high tide. Swell Strong winds on day of climbing brought in swell that made getting onto the rock more awkward. Notes On the day of climbing we saw no jellyfish, but on the day we first saw the crag there were three lurking in the depths. Routes

1. Swell Easy 5 8m Jon Thorne 13/11/14 2. Rr 5+ 8m Dave Lucas 13/11/14 3. Vunami 7b+ 9m Vu Nguyen 13/11/14 4. Rr 5. Ebb, Swell and Flow 6b * 13m Tom Booth 13/11/14 6. Ducking Swell 6b+ * 11m Andy Bishop 13/11/14 7. Project 8. Rr Alex Twist 13/11/14 9. Project


63SHALLOW GRAVE

Shallow Grave Aspect East and south Tide Low tide leaves 0.5m under the crag. High tide is required and is advised to climb 2 hours either side of HT. first ascents climbed on a 3.5m high tide. Swell Strong winds on day of climbing brought in swell that made getting onto the rock more awkward. Notes On the day of climbing we saw no jellyfish, but on the day we first saw the crag there were three lurking in the depths. Routes

1. Same ledge different man 6a+ 13m 13/11/14 Dan Webber 2. Man on a Ledge 6a+ * 13m 13/11/14 Andrew Bishop


64 CERRO TORRE

GPS: 20°54’9.23”N 107° 8’56.22”ESource: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81

66 LAUGHING DOG WALL

GPS: 20°54’4.60”N 107°10’3.20”E

The Laughing Dog Wall is called after a tufa that looks like a laughing dog. Drawaing by Paul Piana


67HON MUC MUC, LA PLAGE DES PIRATES

GPS: 20°52’25.40”N 107°17’47.20”E


ha long bay climbing...deep water soloing: - hawaii 5-0 13 climbs, 5c to 7b - crag x 5 climbs, 6a to...

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