gilbert & gaillard magazine, october issue
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The October Issue of the magazine from the famous french wine critics, Gilbert & GaillardTRANSCRIPT
Contents
CONTENTS
COLUMNS
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 3
12-13LONDON LIFE
14-15NEWS
54-55 WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
• Oriane Mazeau - Château de
Toutigeac
56-57 FAMILY BUSINESS
• Clément Fayat of Vignobles Fayat
71-72NEW YORK LIFE
79-80FAMILY BUSINESS
• Benziger Family Winery,
Sonoma Mountain
98-99ORGANIC NEWS
• Replacing plant
protection products
106-107WINE QUOTATIONS
• Old Champagnes:
a surprising tasting experience
108-111 STARS AND WINE
• Sigourney Weaver & John Lasseter
GILBERT & GAILLARD
THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE
SUBSCRIPTIONS2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 €
SEE PAGE 85
COVER © ALBO - FOTOLIA
GILBERT & GAILLARD
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54
16-19BORDEAUX LIFE
48-53QUALITY FACTORS• Sparkling wine: bubbling over with success
4 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
CONTENTS
ContentsREPORTS
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42
96
THIS MAGAZINEIS PRINTED ON RECYCLABLE
PAPER
58-63 HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
• The incredible diversity of Cognac
64-70 REGION
• The United States:
a leading global wine producer
73-78 TRAVEL
• Fighting the cold in Colorado
81-87HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
• Friuli: perfectionism in a bottle
88-94 REGION
• Andalusia: dazzling in more
ways than one
96-97 WINE AND FOOD
• Gilles Goujon: childhood memories
113-114 RECOMMENDED WINES
20-41 COVER STORY
• Our gold medal wines
• Burgundy's excellence
• Rated wines 90/100 and more
42-47 REGION
• The mysterious wines
of South West France
Don't miss out!
Weare delighted to present the 2012 Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins. All the
wines featured have been tasted using the same protocol, ensuring
a rigorous, impartial selection. The samples sent by producers are blind
tasted by Gilbert & Gaillard and their team in the quiet seclusion of a tasting room. A 100
point scale is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as
no more than 10-15 samples are tasted per session to maintain fair judgement and analysis.
7,000 wines have been selected, along with commentaries, tasting notes and
recommendations on how to serve them. All the classed growths and most prestigious
wines are featured, but there are also many smaller, lesser-known wine growers to
discover too. Each wine growing region is represented, together with a detailed map and every appellation is closely analysed,
with commentaries. The Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins is the essential guide to discovering european wines.
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2012 NEWFRENCH EDITION
FRANÇOIS GILBERT
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 7
In 2010, the United States - a major wine producerand consumer country - overtook France to become the
world’s leading wine market with volume sales of 330
million cases. In 2011, it also became the world’s largest
consumer country. A population of over 310 million,
including 200 million potential consumers (over the age
of 21) is driving the wine market and has fuelled growth
for several years. French and European wines are in an
excellent position to capture growth as the population is
getting younger. Although France still lags behind Italy
and Australia in volume terms, it ranks first for value
sales. The retail price of imported wine in the United
States is on average 3.5 times the ex-cellar price because
of the country’s specific “three tier” distribution system.
Theoretically, a wine must go through three compulsory
stages - the importer, distributor and retailer - to reach the
end consumer. It is therefore essential to find the right
representative. A few tips can save both time and money.
For instance, contacting an import distributor: as a
recipient and shipper of wines, he can reduce costs and
be proactive with new customers ordering small
quantities because the wine is already on American soil.
Despite an archaic distribution system, a strong Euro
against the dollar and the continued global recession,
French and European wines continue to go from strength
to strength in the US, both in the volume segments
(retail prices under $15) and at the top-end of the market.
François GilbertEditorial director
www.gilbertgaillard.com
Successfully exporting to the US
PHILIPPE GAILLARD
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 9
For the last 25 years, we have been tasting
and scoring wines daily. To do this, we have devised a
very efficient scoring system that only judges a wine’s
inherent qualities: balance, finesse, aromatic intensity,
complexity, length, potential… After scoring, we award
a gold medal to wines with the highest marks so that
their quality can be conveyed to consumers. We are the
only French magazine to do this internationally, along
with two American and one English publication.
To broaden our scope and respond to real demand,
we have been working for several months on a slightly
different scoring system that takes into account the
value for money aspect, a core consumer concern at
the moment. This has led us to create a new, yet
complementary medal concept called “Smart Buy”
which is awarded irrespective of whether a wine has
a gold medal. Our ambition is to showcase new talent
and reward a good or very good wine with a
reasonable price tag of under 7 € ($10).
Philippe GaillardEditorial director
www.gilbertgaillard.com
An innovative medal
10 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARD
www.gilbertgaillard.com
An annual awards list is an opportunity to reveal
the best wines we have tasted throughout the year.
It features wines scoring 90/100 and over. The 2011 list is
of an extremely high standard and comprises 400 wines
from all over France. Most of the Bordeaux wines are from
2008, a refined, nicely-crafted vintage though there are
some nice surprises amongst the 2007s that have matured
well. Burgundy is the triumphant winner however of this
year’s selection with almost 70 wines and the highest
scores (98 and 97/100, see our presentation from pages
22 to 27). Languedoc-Roussillon put on an impressive
showing too with 18 wines under the Languedoc
appellation. There is also a wonderful range of wines
from the Rhône and a surprise appearance by two generic
Côtes du Rhône and four Costières de Nîmes wines.
We also wanted to showcase a selection of wines that
warrant your attention (page 20-21) but are too numerous
to be mentioned individually. All of these wines were
tasted by our tasting panel on our premises using specific
procedures. Their score makes them eligible for a Gilbert
& Gaillard gold medal. This is the ultimate accolade
and a sure-fire way for consumers to recognise a
superior quality wine. And don’t forget, all the wines
we taste can be accessed at any time via our website
www.gilbertgaillard.com or on your smartphone.
Sylvain PatardEditor in chief
A ruthlessselection!
10th edit ion20, 21 and 22 February 2012
�������Montpel l ier - France
Reserved for professionals
www.vinisud.com
The International Exhibitionof Mediterranean Wines and Spirits
12 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
LONDON LIFE
London al-fresco: the British tend to live a sheltered existence.Sheltered, that is, from the natural elements that seem to assail usfor 12 months a year. Every now and again however, the sun staysout just long enough for us to enjoy a taste of the great outdoors.
Mark’s favourite venues
AN AL-FRESCO TASTING EVENT
The Natural Wine Fair 15th - 17th May 2011 at Borough Marketwww.thenaturalwinefair.com
Just as the British wine trade was gatheringat the London International Wine Fair,another tasting was taking place over atBorough Market. The inaugural NaturalWine Fair was different for three reasons.First of all, it was the largest gathering ofnatural, organic and biodynamic wine-
makers that has ever happened on this sideof the channel. Secondly, it was open tothe public all day on the Sunday, giving thecity’s burgeoning group of natural wineenthusiasts a chance to meet their vinousheroes. Finally, the event was (somewhatbravely) an open air affair.
The al-fresco setting added to theambience and enhanced the ‘naturalness’of the event. It was undoubtedly the mostinteresting tasting I have attended this yearand the opportunity to meet vignerons likeJean Foillard, Dario Princic and ThierryPuzelat was a real treat.
Mark Andrew
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The Natural Wine Fai r
The Natural Wine Fai r
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GREAT SEAFOOD BY THE RIVER
River Café Thames Wharf, Rainville RoadLondon W6 9HATel. +44 (0)207 386 4200 www.rivercafe.co.uk
With space at such a premium and rain sucha constant threat in London, it is harder thanyou may think to find a top notch restaurantwith outdoor space. The River Café, next tothe Thames in a leafy corner of Fulham, isperhaps the best of this rare breed.
The top priority at River Café is the food.Truly superb seafood dishes are the mainstayof the menu, but with an emphasis on letting
LONDON LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 13
WONDERFUL WINES BY
TOWER BRIDGE
Le Pont de la Tour 36D Shad ThamesLondon SE1 2YETel. +44 (0)207 403 8403 www.lepontdelatour.co.uk
With a stunning view over London’s iconicTower Bridge, Le Pont de la Tour is arestaurant, bar and a wine merchant allrolled into one and it is a real pleasure tovisit a place where wine takes centre stage.On meeting Nicolas Clerc (wine managerand Master Sommelier) it is clear that hisknowledge and passion are the driving forcebehind their superb list, a labour of lovethat stretches to nearly 100 pages!
After enjoying some light food from the barmenu (excellent charcuterie and paté decampagne), I opted for a glass of LaurentVaillé’s delicious 2004 Grange des Pèresrouge (£18.50). In addition to the greatview, the lively ambience was furtherenriched by the buzz of an after-work crowdand a live jazz pianist. If you are staying inthis part of town, it is worth rememberingthat Le Pont also boasts one of the capital’sbest wine shops (not to mention a greatfood store too).
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Le Pont de la Tour
River Café
the ingredients shine rather than over-complicating things. This doesn’t mean thatthe dishes lack complexity - far from it. Mystarter of ‘Ravioli con Granchio’ was a riot offlavours, with chilli, fennel and lemonworking in tandem with delicious Devoncrab. I followed this with a truly spectaculardish of monkfish and scallops and washedthe lot down with a crisp bottle ofVermentino di Gallura by CantinaGiogantinu (£42.00). I love the perfumed liftand freshness of Vermentino when eatingseafood and Giogantinu’s example issensational value.
Eating at the River Café is never cheap (thislunch ended up at £75 per person), but thesheer quality of the food, service andriverside setting make it worth every penny.
NAPA VALLEY IN PARIS
The US Ambassador to France, CharlesH. Rivkin, welcomed Napa Valley winegrowers on June 16th in Paris for a winetasting and seminar on the region, itshistory and its wines, some of which areAmerica’s most acclaimed. Producers atthe event included Beaucanon Estate,Inglenook Estate, St Supéry Vineyardsand Stag’s Leap.
HOSPICES DE BEAUNE ONTHE INTERNET
Albert Bichot is offering wine loversaround the world the chance to buyfutures of the 2011 vintage from themythical Hospices de Beaune estate online. This novel way of democratising theHospices de Beaune auction (November21st 2011) via the www.hospices-beaune.com website has been successfulsince 2009 for Albert Bichot. The firmwas founded in 1831 and for the pastfifteen years has been the auction’sleading buyer. Under the guidance ofJean-David Camus, Burgundy winelovers will be able to buy Hospices deBeaune 2011 futures in just a few clicks.They can either buy an entire cask (288bottles) or one of the cuvées selected byAlbert Bichot with a minimum purchaseof just six bottles.
BEAUTY TAKES CENTRE STAGE
A private viewing of the NataliaSklenarikova exhibition was held atChampagne Lanson on August 26th.Natalia Sklenarikova’s works offer botha modern and nostalgic expression ofher dual culture. The Paris-based lawyeris a keen photographer and sister of theSlovakian model Adriana Karembeu.The two Vintage 2011 patrons joinedstaff the following day in harvesting thegrapes at Clos Lanson where Lansonchairman Philippe Baijot announcedthat a new Clos Lanson cuvée would bereleased in 2012. The new release will beoak aged and made from Chardonnaygrown within the walls of ChampagneLanson itself.
14 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
NEWS
Château de PennautierFût 2007
Cabardès A.C.
M. DavidCAVAVIN ANGERS
25, rue Saumuroise49000 - ANGERS
Tel.: +33 (0)2 41 68 41 32
Clos de NeuillySpelty 2007
Chinon A.C.
M. PeraisCAVAVIN REDON
Rue Marcel QuerciaZA de Cotard
35600 - REDON Tel.: +33 (0)2 99 71 25 62
In every issue, see whichwinemakers are the gold
medal winners
étienne BOIVINFranchise Development Manager
7.90 €*
10.90 €*
14.50 €*
* Retail price including sales tax
Château Bouscassé2006
Madiran A.C.
M. et Mme NicolaiCAVAVIN TOULOUSE
83, AVENUE JEAN RIEUX31500 - TOULOUSE
Tel.: +33 (0)5 61 34 23 27
Château Tourde Grenet 2007
Lussac Saint-Émilion A.C.
M. LibaudCAVAVIN PARIS 11
11, rue Oberkampf75 011 - PARIS
Tel.: +33 (0)9 50 41 45 9910.80 €*
Selection Autumn 2011
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Charles H. Rivkin with François Gilbert at the tasting
L-R: Natalia Sklenarikova, Philippe Baijot and Adriana Karembeu
BONHAMS SELLS CASE OFROMANÉE-CONTI FOR
£126,500: ENJOY A BOTTLE FOR
£10,500 OR A GLASS FOR £1,750
Bonhams is delighted to announce thata case of Romanée-Conti from the 1990vintage sold for £126,500 in the Fine &Rare Wine sale that took place atBonhams, New Bond Street (London)on September 8th. At over £10,000 perbottle and £1,750 a glass, the case willundoubtedly be well looked after. Thesale realised over £760,000, with particularinterest in the older vintages on offer. www.bonhams.com
NEWS
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 15
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
CHAMPAGNE Guy Tixier Rosé 1er Cru RosissimeDeep pink with orangy high-lights. Expressive nose markedby red fruit (cherry, raspberry).Crunchy fruit on the palate which is fleshy, full-bodied and melted. Pairings such as a red fruit tartspring to mind.
87/100
CHAMPAGNE Jean-Michel Pelletier Cuvée Anaëlle 2002Deep gold. Distinctive nosemingling notes of bakedapple with sweet notes.Rich, generous, very supple palate. More of the fruit andthe same sensation of sweetness. Would complementnibbles with foie gras.
84/100
CHAMPAGNE Jean Vesselle Brut Grand CruCuvée Le Petit Clos 1996 Deep gold with amber-like nuances.Open nose reminiscent of dried apricot,fig with a subtle toasted background.The palate shows seductive body, mel-lowness and pure, complex aromas, though above allfreshness. A quintessential Bouzy. Drink as a food wine.
95/100
GILBERT & GAILLARD SELECTION
THE ANGEL’S SHARE WENT THROUGH THE ROOF
The 6th “Angel’s Share” auction which took place in Cognac onSeptember 15th confirmed the event’s success. The black-tieevening was attended by the men and women who make Cognac,many international collectors and journalists from around theworld. 650 people were fortunate enough to be able to enjoy aunique Cognac experience. Twenty-five outstanding bottles,some unique or limited edition, were donated by Cognac firmsand auctioned by auctioneer Gérard-Tasset. For the first time, allthe lots were sold for a total of just under 100,000 euros. Onehad a reserve price of 3,500 euros and fetched 15,000 euros! Atthe end of the auction, the sculpture “Journey from the earth tothe light” donated by Caroline Tresca fetched 1,700 euros.Proceeds from the sale will be entirely donated to the Order ofMalta and local association Aurore.
An exceptional bottle of Cognac Frapin raised 1,000 euros
This sculpture fetched 1,700 euros
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
LA FÊTE DE LA FLEUR
ORGANISED IN CONJUNCTION
WITH THE COMMANDERIE DU
BONTEMPSSt Julien’s Château Beychevelle was theoriginal host for this year’s Fête de laFleur celebration but following itschange of hands (it is now ownedjointly by French Castel and JapaneseSuntory), they decided to pull out. Asthe name suggests, the Fête de la Fleuris the celebration of the flowering ofthe vine, marking the appearance ofsmall white blossoms. It is an eventorganised annually by the Commanderiedu Bontemps, an association of 350producer-members who represent theMédoc, Graves, Sauternes and Barsacappellations, in conjunction with achosen château. The costs of the event(a budget of around 1 million euros)are shared between the property andthe Commanderie.
CELEBRATION OF 10 YEARS OF
COLONY CAPITAL AT THE HEAD
OF LASCOMBESDominique Befve is Lascombes’ GeneralManager since Colony’s purchase of the
MONTHS OF PLANNING TO
ORGANISE THE DETAILSThe hands-on organisation came downto Lascombes’ Public RelationsManager, Karine Barbier, helped byDominique Befve’s wife Pia and eventsagency Côte Ouest. Pia Befve annually
16 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
BORDEAUX LIFE
The summer of 2011 will go down in the history of Margaux’s Château Lascombesas a memorable one, with the gala dinner celebration of the Fête de la Fleur hostedat the property, marking ten years of ownership by American investment fundColony Capital. It will be doubly memorable as after a number of years on themarket, the second growth property was sold some two weeks after the gala dinnercelebration to French mutual insurance company MACSF.
Château Lascombes: the end ofan era and the beginning of the next
property in 2001; with the agreementof owners Colony Capital, he put ChâteauLascombes forward as a potential host.The timing was perfect for celebratingten years at the head of the property.This left a short eight months to organisethe largest celebration in the Bordeauxwine trade calendar.
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Karine Barbier, Publ ic Relat ions Manager of Lascombes
menu for the 1500 guests in a specially-created kitchen of 400m2.
ASIAN INFLUENCE FOR THE
GALA DINNERTo pay homage to the importance of
the Chinese market in 2011, the team
decided to add an Asian touch with
replicas of the generals of Xian’s
Terracotta Army from the First Emperor
of China standing to attention outside
the marquee. The marquee stretched
2500 m2 and resembled a large dining
room with elaborate chandeliers, framed
sepia photos of scenes from Lascombes
and contemporary-design, transparent
Philippe Starck chairs. The guests were
entertained by jazz singers, opera singing
by Julie Mathevert, and an impressive
aerial acrobatic show by Maria Belloir.
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BORDEAUX LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 17
attends the Fête de la Fleur event: “As aguest, one is not aware of what goes onbehind the scenes for such a gala eveningto run smoothly. For example, we hadover 400 waiters, chefs and sommeliersto feed by a separate caterer, besidesour 1500 guests!”
Lascombes specified that they wantedthe tone of the evening to be “simple,classy and chic.” The biggest challengewas for the dinner to take no longerthan two hours; the most importantpart of the evening was the choice ofwines and the dishes to go with them.
THREE STAR MENU FOR
1500 GUESTSThe caterer for the main guests wasMont Blanc, who prepared a menucreated by three-Michelin-starred chefEric Fréchon from the Hôtel Bristol inParis (also owned by Colony) underhis supervision, aided by his teamfrom Paris. There were no fewer than40 chefs who re-created the four-course
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R-L: Dominique Befve, Châteaux Lascombes' General Manager, h is wife Pia, and Alain Juppé, French Foreign Minister and Mayor of Bordeaux
Four-course menu
MENUCaviar d’Aquitaine with MashedPotato flavoured with Haddock2006 Château Haut-Brion Blanc,Pessac Léognan - in magnum
*Saddle of Lamb in Nori Crust servedwith Gnocchi with Herbs and
pureed Kohlrabi2005 Château Lascombes, SecondGrowth, Margaux - in imperial
(6 litre/8 bottles)*
Farmhouse St Nectaire or Truffled Brie
2000 Château Léoville-Poyferré, Second Growth, St Julien
*Frozen Caipirinha Pineapple,
Banana and Passion-Fruit Sorbet andtiny Meringue
2008 Château d’Yquem, First Growth Superior, Sauternes
18 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
BORDEAUX LIFE
INDUCTION BY THE
COMMANDERIE DU BONTEMPSOne of the evening’s highlights is thecustomary “intronisation” inductionceremony. This year, 45 personalities fromthe world of wine, arts, entertainmentand politics were invited to becomehonorary members of theCommanderie, donning ermine robesto receive the honour. Today there aremore than 10,000 such membersaround the world.
SALE OF MARGAUX’S LARGEST
PROPERTY TO FRENCH MEDICAL
INSURANCE COMPANYFollowing the re-launch of the sale ofthe property with a number of newbanks, at the time of the gala dinner
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Chinese TV was present throughout the evening
The guests were entertained by jazz s ingers
BORDEAUX LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 19
French mutual insurance companyMACSF, has expressed his wish to continuethe way the property is currently runand he wants to keep the same team.He sees the investment in Lascombesas a long-term project. Having aninsurance company as owners ratherthan an investment fund is moresecure, both for the team who work
there were a number of parties interestedin the purchase of Château Lascombesbut nothing definite was on the table.
At the beginning of July the deal withMACSF for the purchase of the 84-hectare,second growth estate of ChâteauLascombes was signed for 200 millioneuros. Since Colony Capital purchasedthe property in 2001 and employedDominique Bevfe, previously ofChâteau Lafite and Château l’Evangilein Pomerol, they invested heavily tobring the second growth property upto its present level. Today Lascombeshas undoubtedly reached its goal andis well-noted for its wines. The progressmade over ten years in improving thequality of the wine has been impressive,with Château Lascombes now amongstthe major players of the Margauxappellation.
CONTINUITY FOR THE FUTURE
AT LASCOMBESSo what does the change in ownersmean for the property and forBordeaux? Dominique Bevfe explains:“Marcel Kahn, the director of the
here and for the Bordeaux market placewhere the wine is sold by merchants.”
So what plans do the new owners havefor the property? Today 80% ofLascombes' production is exported andis relatively well-known across theworld, particularly in the USA andmore recently in Asia. It is not so well-known in Europe, particularly inFrance, where there is work to do inmarketing and communications. Otherplans include the renovation of the“Chartreuse” building for offices andentertaining, and the development of awebsite to keep MACSF members up-to-date and involved with happenings atthe château. 2011 has been a good yearfor Château Lascombes with the Fête dela Fleur and the sale; with the harvestunder way, perhaps the 2011 vintagewill give them a hat-trick...
CHÂTEAU LASCOMBESTEL. +33 (0)5 57 88 70 66www.chateau-lascombes.com
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Château Lascombes is now amongst the major p layers of the Margaux appel lat ion
Prest ig ious Château d 'Yquem was the ideal conclusion to the meal
Our gold medal winesHere is a selection of gold scored 89/100wines. Find the full award-winning wineson our website: www.gilbertgaillard.com
CONTENTSPAGES
BURGUNDY'S EXCELLENCE .................. 22 to 27
Domaine Alain Patriarche:The class of Meursault Genévrières........................ 22
Fougeray de Beauclair :Incomparable Bonnes-Mares ! ............................... 24
Domaine Jessiaume :The jewel of Santenay ............................................. 26
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE ........ 28 to 41
20 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
COVER STORY
ALSACEAlsace gewurztraminer A.C.89/100 Cave de Turckheim Late Harvest (50 cl) 2007 16.60 €89/100 Wolfberger Late Harvest 2007 18.95 € 89/100 Bernard Haegelin Bollenberg 2009 7.30 € 89/100 Schaeffer-Woerly Vieilles Vignes 2009 8.50 € Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C.89/100 André Hartmann Hatschbourg - Armoirie 2009 13.50 € 89/100 Domaine Jean-Marie Koehly Gloeckelberg 2008 8.20 € Alsace Pinot Gris A.C.89/100 Domaine du Moulin de DusenbachLieu-dit Altenbourg 2009 13.70 €
BEAUJOLAISFleurie A.C.89/100 Villa Ponciago La Réserve 2010 9.70 € Morgon A.C.89/100 Henry Fessy Vintage 2009 8.50 €
BORDEAUXGraves A.C.89/100 Château Saint-Robert Poncet-Deville 2009 13.00 € Haut-Médoc A.C.89/100 Château la Tour Carnet Cuvée Les Douves 2008 n/aMargaux A.C.89/100 Baron de Brane Vintage 2008 21.40 € Médoc A.C.89/100 Château Patache d'Aux Vintage 2009 19.00 € Moulis A.C.89/100 Château Biston-Brillette Vintage 2008 14.75 € Pessac-Léognan A.C.89/100 Château Couhins Lurton Vintage 2010 n/aSaint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.89/100 Château Faurie de Souchard Vintage 2010 n/a89/100 Château La Grâce Dieu Les Menuts Vintage 2008 17.00 €
BURGUNDYAloxe Corton A.C.89/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi 20.90 € Les Brunettes et Planchots 2009Chablis A.C.89/100 Domaine Garnier et Fils Grains Dorés 2007 12.00 €
WINE SCORES
95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir
meets exceptional winemaking expertise
90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,
complexity and remarkable winemaking
85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which
we enjoyed for its typicity and character
80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,
structure and neatness for
a pleasurable wine drinking experience
75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable
70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable
65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible
50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale
Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included inour publications.
COVER STORY
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 21
Chablis Premier Cru A.C.89/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils Montmains 2009 12.00 € Gevrey-Chambertin A.C.89/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie 1er Cru Bel Air 2008 44.00 € 89/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc 35.00 € 1er Cru les Champeaux 200889/100 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Vieilles Vignes 2009 23.60 € Mercurey A.C.89/100 Domaine Michel Juillot Les Vignes de Maillonge 2009 14.25 €Meursault A.C.89/100 Guy Bocard Vieilles Vignes 2008 20.00 € Savigny les Beaune A.C.89/100 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Les Golardes 2009 18.70 € Volnay A.C.89/100 Maison Louis Latour 1er Cru En Chevret 2007 30.80 €
JURAArbois A.C.89/100 Domaine de la Pinte Trousseau 2009 12.00 € Côtes du Jura A.C.89/100 Jacques TissotLes Corvées sous Curon Chardonnay 2009 13.50 €
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONBanyuls A.C.89/100 Domaine du Mas Blanc Caudalies - 50 cl 15.00 € Corbières A.C.89/100 Domaine de Longueroche Raoul 2007 15.90 € 89/100 Château Trillol Cucugnan - Prestige 2008 12.50 €89/100 Les Caves Rocbère Terra-Vinea - Prestige 2010 8.00 € 89/100 Prieuré Ste Marie d'Albas Clos de Cassis 2008 10.90 € 89/100 La Grange du Bouïs Cuvée Roméo 2008 32.00 € Côtes du Roussillon A.O.P.89/100 Château de Rey Les Galets Roulés 2009 13.50 € Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac A.C.89/100 Domaine de Familongue - 3 Naissances 2008 15.20 €
LOIRE VALLEYAnjou Villages Brissac A.C.89/100 Château La Varière Vieilles Vignes 2009 n/aMuscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie A.C.89/100 Domaine La Haute Févrie Excellence 2009 4.70 € 89/100 Le Grand R de la Grange Vintage 2009 7.30 € 89/100 Château du Coing de St Fiacre Vintage 2009 6.00 € Pouilly-Fumé A.C.89/100 Cave de Pouilly sur Loire - Tonelum 2009 12.00 € Sancerre A.C.89/100 Domaine Henry Natter Vintage 2010 n/a89/100 Domaine de la Perrière Vintage 2010 n/a89/100 Michel Vattan Vintage 2009 7.50 € Saumur A.C.89/100 Château de Targé Les Fresnettes 2008 12.00
PROVENCEBandol A.C.89/100 Domaine de la Laidière Vintage 2010 14.00 € 89/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2006 16.00 € Côtes de Provence A.C.89/100 Château de Berne Grande Cuvée 2007 26.00 € 89/100 Château de l'Aumérade Seigneur de Piegros 2010 9.40 € 89/100 Château Cavalier Prestige 2010 13.00 € 89/100 Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Blanc de Blancs 2009 21.00 € Côtes de Provence A.O.P.89/100 Domaine du Jas d'EsclansCuvée du Loup - élevé en Barriques 2010 15.40 € Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C.89/100 Domaine Saint André de FiguièreConfidentielle 2010 24.20 € Les Baux de Provence A.C.
89/100 Château Dalmeran MMVI 18.00 €
RHÔNE VALLEYChâteauneuf du Pape A.C.89/100 Château Cabrières Vintage 2008 18.00 € 89/100 Château Fortia Cuvée du Baron 2009 19.00 € 89/100 Bosquet des Papes Cuvée Tradition 2010 19.50 € 89/100 Domaine de Nalys Réserve 2009 30.00 € 89/100 Domaine Moulin-Tacussel Vintage 2010 24.00 € 89/100 Cellier des Princes Le Blason du Prince 2009 12.90 € Côtes du Rhône A.C.89/100 Domaine Galévan L'Esprit Devin 2009 12.00 € Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne A.C.89/100 Domaine des AmadieuCuvée Vieilles Vignes 2009 9.60 € Gigondas A.C.89/100 Gigondas La CaveLa Référence - «élevage hors bois» 2009 10.50 € Vacqueyras A.C.89/100 Le Clos de Caveau Carmin Brillant 2009 14.50 €
SAVOYVin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron A.C.89/100 Jean Perrier & Fils Fleur de Roussanne 2009 7.50 €
SOUTH-OUESTCahors A.C.89/100 Domaine Dhoste Chevalier Vintage 2006 12.00 € Côtes de Bergerac A.C.89/100 Château Bélingard Ortus 2009 15.00 € 89/100 Château Court-Les-Mûts L'Oracle 2008 14.00 € Côtes de Gascogne I.G.P.89/100 Domaine Chiroulet Grande Réserve 2008 12.30 € Madiran A.C.89/100 Domaine Capmartin Cuvée du Couvent 2009 11.00 € Monbazillac A.C.89/100 Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy La cuvée 2008 12.00 €
THE TERROIRThe Genévrières stretch over roughly 16.5 hectares. The namerefers to a once common shrub in this part of the Côte, the junipertree. Chardonnay reigns supreme here and it thrives on quiteclayey limestone marl from which it draws its elegance, finesseand aromatic complexity. The proportion of clay determines thearomatic intensity and degree of fullness in the great dry whitewines of Burgundy, and Meursault Genévrières is undoubtedlyone of them.
22 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
COVER STORY
Domaine Alain Patriarche:the distinction of Meursault GenévrièresCh r i s t i a n e a nd A l a i n
Patriarche are passionate
people. They are passionate
about Burgundy, Meursault
with its rolling hills and its
g r o w t h s , a n d a b o u t
Chardonnay. They are also
passionate about wine
making and ageing their
superlative wines. So much
so that they put their flawless
passion into each bottle of
their wine !
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THE WINE GROWERThe Patriarche family has been growing vines in Meursault for five
generations. Alain Patriarche’s father took over vines cultivated by
his own father until Alain himself could carry on the family
tradition in 1970. Over the years, the estate has grown and now
boasts 10 hectares divided between two villages. Alain Patriarche
grows seven different Meursaults, including this outstanding
Genévrières.
WINES FROM EACH CLIMATESITE AND VINEYARD BLOCK
ARE VINIFIED SEPARATELY ONALAIN PATRIARCHE’S ESTATE
COVER STORY
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 23
THE WINE MAKING PROCESSWines from each climate site and vineyard block on AlainPatriarche’s estate are vinified separately so as to retain the terroir’sintrinsic characteristics. Obviously all of the white wines are from Chardonnay. Aftercareful harvesting and pressing, the must ferments in oak. Thepercentage of new oak varies according to the origin of the grapes.After ageing for 12 months on the lees with stirring, as is thetradition for superior Meursaults, the wine is bottled; fining andfiltering are kept to a minimum.
THE WINEThis Genévrières First Growth covers 20 ares and the vines are onaverage 50 years old. The volcanic alluvial soils intermixed withclay-limestone impart immense distinction. The wine combines amineral and lemony character, toasted undercurrents and anaromatic freshness that ensures incredible persistency reinforcedby fullness and finesse, despite a distinct richness. As a rule, theGenévrières boast substantial cellaring potential and greaterpersistency on the palate. They are both complex yet subtle andunquestionably rank amongst the finest Meursaults.
Gilbert & Gaillard
Meursault A.C.Domaine Alain Patriarche
98/100 GENÉVRIÈRES FIRST GROWTH 2009Cellar price: 55.00 €
ALAIN PATRIARCHE12, rue des Forges - 21190 Meursault
Tel. +33 (0)3 80 21 24 48 - [email protected]
THE PERCENTAGE OF NEW OAKVARIES ACCORDING TO THE ORIGIN
OF THE GRAPES
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98/100 DOMAINE ALAIN PATRIARCHE 2009Meursault Genévrières Premier Cru A.C.
THE WINE GROWERSMarc and Pascal Jessiaume make wine as a team based ona very simple philosophy of producing fine, elegant wineswith supple, well-integrated tannins. The vines are grownusing integrated pest management involving ploughingand environmentally-friendly techniques. Their goal is toobtain low-yield healthy grapes.
24 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
COVER STORY
Domaine Jessiaume: the Santenay gem
Domaine Jessiaume was founded in 1830. It is currently run byrepresentatives of the 5th generation of the family, Marc and PascalJessiaume. In 2006, the estate was bought by Scottish industrialist andwine lover Sir David Murray. He lavished much-needed investment onthe estate enabling it to expand and establish a highly efficient négociantbusiness which markets this remarkable Charmes-Chambertin.
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Pascal and Marc Jessiaume
97/100 MAISON JESSIAUME 2008Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.
COVER STORY
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 25
THE TERROIRThis Charmes-Chambertin is grown over 0.18 hectares, in otherwords a tiny corner of an appellation that totals just 29 hectares.The vines are 50 years old and the rich soil is a mixture of clay, marland limestone with eastern exposure. Limestone is predominantand the surface soil is strewn with scree promoting excellentdrainage and fruit ripening.
THE WINE MAKING PROCESSThe Pinot Noir grapes used for the red wines are sorted anddestemmed then placed into tanks for cold soaking.Actual fermentation then begins and lasts for between 2 to 3weeks. The wines are aged in French oak casks for 12 to 15 monthsdepending on the vintage, including 15-20 % new oak. A fewmonths before going on sale the wines are bottled.
THE WINEMarvellous is the first word that comes to mind. The wine is suave,deep, shows great fruit purity and delicate oak. Its primary assetthough is its fantastic balance combining fullness, richness andpersistency. Just occasionally, Burgundy affords the wine lover theunique experience that comes only with superlative wines, thefeeling of never having tasted anything like this before! Thisfantastic rendition of the excellent 2008 vintage is a member ofthat select club.
Gilbert & Gaillard
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.97/100 MAISON JESSIAUME 2008
Cellar price: 75.00 €
DOMAINE JESSIAUME10, rue de la Gare - 21590 Santenay
Tel. +33 (0)3 80 20 60 [email protected]
DOMAINE JESSIAUME WAS FOUNDED IN 1830
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THE WINE GROWERPatrice began making wine in Burgundy in 1991 at Domaine
Fougeray de Beauclair with his future in-laws. Over the last 20 years,
the area under vine has expanded, mainly through the addition of
Clos Marion (a monopole). The quest for quality is constant,
through a winery equipped with temperature control and above
all, vineyard blocks where some of the vines are over 60 years old.
Patrice worked with his father-in-law Jean-Louis Fougeray for 9
years before taking over full responsibility for wine making in
1999. The estate is predicated on two absolute principles: striving
for quality and making pleasurable, traditional wines.
THE TERROIRThis is the essential ingredient for all great wines. Burgundy wines
are not presented by grape variety but by place names -
Marsannay, Fixin, Bonnes Mares…
26 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
COVER STORY
Fougeray de Beauclair:Bonnes-Mares, in a league of its ownBorn in Toulon (Var) in 1970, Patrice Ollivier is the son and grandson of
winegrowers in Provence. After obtaining a vocational baccalaureat in
Var, he studied for a diploma in viticulture and winemaking in Beaune
(Burgundy) from 1989 - 1991. As part of his course, internships allowed
him to become familiar with the region and to meet fellow student Laurence
Fougeray who would become his wife.
THE ESTATE IS PREDICATED ON TWOABSOLUTE PRINCIPLES: STRIVING FOR
QUALITY AND MAKING PLEASURABLE, TRADITIONAL WINES
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GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 27
Terroir is the cornerstone of winemaking philosophy. The soils are
mostly clay-limestone. What sets Bonnes Mares apart from
surrounding growths is the presence of slightly marly soil (white
earth). Bonnes Mares is occasionally dubbed bonnes mères for its
nourishing qualities, not so much in terms of quantity but quality.
One quarter of this particular vineyard block in Bonnes Mares is
planted to vines over 70 years old compared with an average of 50
years for all the other appellations grown on the estate.
THE WINEMAKING PROCESSA quality wine needs quality vines and therefore yield restrictions
per vine and daily monitoring out in the field are of paramount
importance. The grapes are picked by hand and placed in crates. A
sorting table is used when necessary for selecting the best bunches.
A 3-4 day cold soak then ensues to ensure maximum fruit is
harnessed. The wines are subsequently macerated for another
fortnight at normal temperatures (maximum 31°C) to extract
stuffing but not dry tannins.
The amount of crushing and pumping over depends on the
vintage and its inherent potential. Obviously every year is different
and requires flexibility depending on known factors such as acidity,
alcohol or richness.
The wines are put into casks roughly two months after pressing so
that they have had time to rest and do not contain too many lees.
THE WINEThe Bonnes Mares 2009 is racy, deep and expressive with substantial
cellaring capacity. Many wine lovers however prefer wines that are
still fruit-forward with secondary aromas in the background. This
Great Growth appellation shows remarkable balance after a
decade or so. To ensure supply, it is advisable to buy the wines as
futures; they are then available after bottling. Apart from private
customers, the estate also sells to restaurants after the wines have
been cellared for an average three years.
Gilbert & Gaillard
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru A.C.97/100 DOMAINE FOUGERAY DE BEAUCLAIR 2009
Cellar price: 99.20 €
PATRICE AND LAURENCE OLLIVIER
44, rue de Mazy - 21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
Tel. +33 (0)3 80 52 21 12 - [email protected]
97/100 DOMAINE FOUGERAY DE BEAUCLAIR 2009Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
THE GRAPES ARE PICKED BY HAND AND PLACED IN CRATES
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OUR PICKS
28 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
ALSACE
Alsace Gewurztraminer A.C.
92/100 J. M. Wassler Cuvée des Anges -
Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 13.50 €
91/100 Jacques Iltis Cuvée des Demoiselles 2009 14.00 €
91/100 Sipp Mack Lucie Marie -
Vendanges Tardives- 50 cl 2007 22.80 €
90/100 René Fleck Vendanges Tardives 2007 17.90 €
Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C.
93/100 Domaines Schlumberger Kessler 2005 19.15 €
92/100 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg Schlossberg -
Anne Boecklin 2009 12.00 €
92/100 Sparr Tradition Sporen 2009 15.00 €
92/100 Domaine du Moulin de
Dusenbach Kaefferkopf 2009 15.90 €
91/100 Cave Vinicole Hunawihr Schoenenbourg 2008 12.50 €
91/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Kaefferkopf -
Vieilles Vignes 2009 17.50 €
90/100 Wolfberger Steinert 2008 9.80 €
90/100 Domaine Viticole de la Ville de
Colmar Pfersigberg 2009 10.10 €
90/100 Domaine Charles Baur Pfersigberg 2008 13.30 €
90/100 Domaine Saint-Rémy Goldert 2009
90/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker -
Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 11.50 €
90/100 Horcher Mandelberg 2009 11.80 €
Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris A.C.
94/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg -
Vendanges Tardives 2008 19.10 €
Alsace Grand Cru Riesling A.C.
95/100 Domaine Seppi Landmann Zinnkoepflé -
Vendanges Tardives 1998 45.00 €
95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann Kanzlerberg 2006 17.50 €
93/100Maison Zoeller Altenberg de Wolxheim 2003 8.50 €
92/100 Château Ollwiller Vieilles Vignes 2007 14.90 €
92/100 Ruhlmann Frankstein 2008 10.90 €
91/100 Kuentz-Bas Pfersigberg - Trois Châteaux 2008 18.10 €
91/100 Domaine Jean Sipp Kirchberg de
Ribeauvillé 2008 16.00 €
90/100 Albert Schoech Wineck-Schlossberg 2008 8.60 €
90/100 Domaine Haegi Zotzenberg 2009 8.40 €
90/100 Domaine Joseph Scharsch
Altemberg de Wolxheim 2006 9.50 €
90/100 Domaine Bott Frères Kirchberg de
Ribeauvillé 2009 15.30 €
90/100 Domaine Agapé Schoenenbourg 2009 16.40 €
Alsace Pinot Gris A.C.
90/100 André Blanck et ses Fils Cuvée Baptiste -
Vendanges Tardives 2008 19.90 €
Alsace Riesling A.C.
92/100 Philippe Gocker Vendanges Tardives 2008 17.00 €
91/100 Scherb Bernard et Fils Venganges Tardives -
50 cl 2008 12.00 €
90/100 Julien Schaal Les 5 Pierres 2009 12.00 €
90/100 P. Humbrecht Prestige 2007 10.60 €
BEAUJOLAIS
Brouilly A.C.
90/100 Château de la Chaize Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2009 10.00 €
Morgon A.C.
91/100 Domaine de la Bêche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2009 5.50 €
90/100 Olivier Depardon Charmes 2009 8.50 €
90/100 Domaine de la Chaponne Côte du Py 2009 6.00 €
90/100 Domaine de la Chaponne Cuvée Joseph 2009 7.00 €
Moulin à Vent A.C.
90/100 Domaine Sambin Vintage 2009 8.20 €
Here are the scores for the best wines we tasted in 2011. You will find all of our 2011 tasting notes on our website: www.gilbertgaillard.com
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 29
BORDEAUX
Bordeaux A.C.
90/100 Reignac Vintage 2009 18.00 €
Bordeaux supérieur A.C.
90/100 Grand Vin de Reignac Vintage 2009 20.00 €
Cadillac A.C.
90/100 Château Garbes-Cabanieu Grains Nobles 2006 8.00 €
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux A.C.
91/100 L'Ame de Fontbaude Vintage 2008 14.80 €
Côtes de Castillon A.C.
90/100 Domaine de l'A Vintage 2007 28.00 €
Graves A.C.
90/100 Château Haura Vintage 2008 12.00 €
Haut-Médoc A.C.
93/100 Château La Lagune Vintage 2008 45.00 €
90/100 Château Citran Vintage 2008 15.00 €
Lalande de Pomerol A.C.
90/100 Château Lafleur-Vauzelle Vintage 2009 9.00 €
Margaux A.C.
94/100 Château Lascombes Vintage 2006 60.00 €
93/100 Château Brane-Cantenac Vintage 2008 23.00 €
93/100 Château Giscours Vintage 2007 43.00 €
91/100 Château du Tertre Vintage 2007 28.00 €
91/100 Château Mongravey Vintage 2008 21.00 €
90/100 Château La Tour de Mons Vintage 2008 14.00 €
90/100 Château Confidence de Margaux Vintage 2008 18.00 €
Moulis A.C.
90/100 Château Poujeaux Vintage 2008 22.50 €
Pessac-Léognan A.C.
94/100 Château Malartic-Lagravière Vintage 2008 40.00 €
93/100 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Vintage 2009 43.00 €
91/100 Château Le Sartre Vintage 2008 15.00 €
Pomerol A.C.
93/100 Château Beauregard Vintage 2008 32.00 €
92/100 Château Mazeyres Vintage 2008 23.50 €
91/100 Château Grand Moulinet Vintage 2009 17.00 €
91/100 Château Taillefer Vintage 2007 28.00 €
90/100 Vieux Château Ferron Vintage 2008 37.00 €
90/100 Château Franc-Maillet Vintage 2008 19.00 €
90/100 Château Monbrun Vintage 2008 19.50 €
Saint-Emilion A.C.
90/100 L'or du Temps Vintage 2008 17.00 €
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.
92/100 Château La Tour Figeac Vintage 2008 35.00 €
92/100 Château de Pressac Vintage 2008 22.50 €
92/100 Château Grand Corbin-Despagne Vintage 2008 25.00 €
92/100 Château Fleur Cardinale Vintage 2008 n/a
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30 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
91/100 Château Dassault Vintage 2008 49.00 €
91/100 Château Laroze Vintage 2008 25.00 €
91/100 Château La Dominique Vintage 2007 23.80 €
90/100 Château La Fleur du Casse Vintage 2007 23.80 €
90/100 Château Corbin Michotte Vintage 2008 26.00 €
90/100 Château Haut Rocher Vintage 2008 17.00 €
90/100 Château Haut Troquart La Grâce Dieu Cuvée Passion 2008 18.50 €
90/100 Château Monlot Cuvée Prestige 2009 25.00 €
90/100 Château Armens Vintage 2009 19.50 €
90/100 Château Faurie de Souchard Vintage 2008 25.00 €
90/100 Château Tauzinat l'Hermitage Vintage 2007 18.50 €
90/100 Château Villemaurine Vintage 2008 35.00 €
90/100 Château Grand Corbin Manuel Vintage 2007 18.00 €
Saint-Estèphe A.C.
96/100 Château Montrose Vintage 2008 n/a
94/100 Château Haut-Marbuzet Vintage 2009 n/a
93/100 Château La Haye Majesté 2008 50.00 €
92/100 Château Lilian Ladouys Vintage 2008 15.00 €
91/100 Château L'Argilus du Roi Vintage 2008 14.50 €
90/100 Château Lafon-Rochet Vintage 2010 40.60 €
Saint-Georges Saint-Emilion A.C.
90/100 Château Saint-Georges Vintage 2008 20.83 €
Saint-Julien A.C.
96/100 Château Branaire-Ducru Vintage 2010 n/a
96/100 Château Lagrange Mllésime 2008 n/a
96/100 Château Gloria Vintage 2008 27.50 €
96/100 Château Saint-Pierre Vintage 2007 52.00 €
96/100 Château Gloria Vintage 2007 30.00 €
Sauternes A.C.
94/100 Château La Tour Blanche Vintage 2007 46.00 €
93/100 Château Roumieu-Lacoste Cuvée André 2007 20.00 €
92/100 Château Lamothe Vintage 2007 26.00 €
91/100 Château Bastor-Lamontagne Vintage 2007 23.00 €
91/100 Château Haut-Bergeron Vintage 2009 24.00 €
90/100 Château Bérénice Vintage 2008 17.50 €
90/100 Duval & Blanchet Les Notes Dorées 2009 15.00 €
CHABLIS PREMIER CRU A.C.Domaine Alain GeoffroyBeauroy 2009Light yellow. Expressive nosecombining white-fleshed fruitsand a mineral dimension. Full,quite powerful attack, lovelyexuberance that bolsters thesensation of length. Perfumed finish intermixingnotes of almond, a floral touch and minerality.
90/100
CHABLIS GRAND CRU A.C.Domaine Garnier et FilsVaudésir 2008Bright, pale gold. Refined noseopening up to floral notes and ripelemon with delicate oak notes inthe background. Seductive volume,fat and freshness on the palate. Aperfumed, persistent great growth. Very enjoyable.
92/100
CHABLIS GRAND CRU A.C. Domaine Jean Collet &fils - Valmur 2009 Light yellow. Profound nosedisplaying wonderful mineralityand a floral, lemony background.The palate shows seductive fat and fullness. Polishedand lingering across the palate. A great growth in all itssplendour. Drink with delicately-flavoured fish or shellfish.
93/100
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
BURGUNDY
Beaune A.C.
92/100 Domaine Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot
1er Cru Les Bressandes 2008 20.00 €
90/100 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
1er Cru Les Teurons 2009 25.90 €
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru A.C.
97/100 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Vintage 2009 99.20 €
Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise A.C.
90/100 Domaine A. et P. de Villaine La Digoine 2009 13.70 €
Chablis Grand Cru A.C.
95/100 Domaine William Fèvre Bougros 2009 40.40 €
95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils
Les Clos - Clos des Hospices dans les Clos 2009 28.00 €
94/100 Simonnet-Febvre Les Clos 2008 34.95 €
93/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils Valmur 2009 25.00 €
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 31
93/100 Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre
Les Preuses 2009 n/a
92/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils Vaudésir -
Vieilles Vignes 2008 27.00 €
92/100 Domaine Long-Depaquit Les Vaudésirs 2009 29.60 €
92/100 Domaine Garnier et Fils Vaudésir 2008 30.00 €
91/100 Raoul Gautherin & fils Grenouilles 2009 25.00 €
Chablis Premier Cru A.C.
91/100 La Chablisienne Côte de Léchet 2008 n/a
90/100 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Vau-Ligneau 2009 14.00 €
90/100 Domaine Alain Gautheron Vaucoupin 2009 11.50 €
90/100 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy 2008 11.95 €
90/100 Château de Chemilly Vosgros -
fûts de chêne 2009 14.50 €
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru A.C.
97/100Maison Jessiaume Vintage 2008 75.00 €
96/100 Domaine Henri Rebourseau Vintage 2002 82.00 €
Chassagne-Montrachet A.C.
92/100 Duchesse de Magenta
1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2008 48.00 €
90/100 Château de Chassagne-
Montrachet Vintage 2009 23.00 €
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru A.C.
94/100 Aegerter Jean-Luc & Paul Vintage 2008 140.00 €
93/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi Vintage 2008 58.00 €
92/100 Alex Gambal Vintage 2009 85.00 €
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru A.C.
96/100 Bouchard père & fils Vintage 2009 88.20 €
96/100 Domaine Bertagna Vintage 2009 88.00 €
94/100 Domaine Denis Père et Fils Vintage 2009 42.00 €
Corton Grand Cru A.C.
94/100 Domaine Faiveley Grand Cru Clos des
Corton Faiveley - Monopole 2009 n/a
93/100 Domaine Chandon de Briailles
Les Bressandes 2009 70.00 €
92/100 Domaine Louis Latour
Clos de la Vigne au Saint 2006 45.80 €
Corton-Renardes Grand Cru A.C.
93/100 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson
Les Renardes 2007 45.00 €
Crémant de Bourgogne A.C.
90/100 Caves Bailly-Lapierre Brut rosé Vive la Joie 2006 n/a
Echezeaux Grand Cru A.C.
93/100 Domaine Nudant Vintage 2008 50.00 €
93/100 Château David de Beaufort Vintage 2001 86.60 €
Fixin A.C.
90/100 Clos St-Louis 1er Cru Hervelets 2009 24.00 €
CHARMES CHAMBERTINGRAND CRU A.C. Domaine HenriRebourseau Vintage 2002 Superb deep colour. Open,complex nose intermixing jammyand dried fruits, notes of undergrowth and damp earth.Amazing concentration, richness and fullness on thepalate. A powerful wine with presence, still in its youth.
96/100
VOUGEOT A.C. Domaine de la Vougeraie1er Cru Le Clos Blancde Vougeot - MonopoleBeautiful light gold. Veryexpressive, refined noseblending notes of ripe lemon and quality toasted oak.The palate is both opulent yet fresh showing seductivevolume, persistency and focus. Top marks.
93/100
CLOS DE VOUGEOT GRAND CRU A.C. Château Philippe Le Hardi 2008 Ruby. Profound nose with accents of late-picked redfruits (raspberry, cherry)enhanced by a note of oak. Onthe palate, the fruity character ishighlighted by a full, robust,well-integrated structure. Goldstandard. Cellar for 3 to 5 years.
93/100
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
BONNES MARES GRAND CRU A.C. Domaine Fougeray deBeauclair - Vintage 2009 Appealing colour with ruby-redhighlights. Delicate, refined nosemarrying ripe notes of raspberryand cherry and elegant oak. The palate displays wonderfulconcentration, extremely refined tannins and fullness.Remarkable balance across the palate. Huge potential.
97/100
32 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
Gevrey-Chambertin A.C.
91/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc
1er Cru la Combe aux Moines 2008 39.00 €
90/100 Jean-Claude Boisset
1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques 2009 88.95 €
Mercurey A.C.
91/100 Domaine Michel Juillot
1er Cru Clos des Barraults 2008 22.00 €
91/100 Domaine de Suremain 1er Cru La Bondue 2008 15.10 €
90/100 Château d'Etroyes
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes des Ormeaux 2009 14.10 €
Meursault A.C.
98/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche Genévrières
1er Cru 2009 55.00 €
96/100 Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2008 35.00 €
94/100 Domaine Rougeot 1er Cru Charmes 2009 35.00 €
90/100 Closerie des Alisiers Terroir de Meursault 2009 20.00 €
90/100 Domaine Berthelemot Les Tillets 2009 24.00 €
Montagny A.C.
90/100 Château de la Saule 1er Cru Les Burnins 2009 13.50 €
Nuits Saint Georges A.C.
90/100 Domaine du Château Gris
1er Cru Ghâteau Gris - Monopole 2008 41.00 €
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN A.C. Domaine Philippe Leclerc 1er Cru la Combe auxMoines 2008Clean red. Wonderful quality fruiton the nose reminiscent of cherry andraspberry. Sappy palate showing fullness and veryprecise fragrances. Oak is still very upfront but shouldgradually play a supporting role to the fruit. Verynoble breeding here.
91/100
ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU A.C. Domaine Nudant Jean-René - Vintage 2008 Limpid pale ruby-red. Subtle racynose of morello cherry with a floraltouch and refined oak under-currents. Taut, intensely aromatic palate that is savouryand fresh with a closely-integrated structure. A top-notchwine that will reveal itself wonderfully in 5-6 years' time.
93/100
MEURSAULT A.C. Domaine Alain PatriarcheGenévrières 1er Cru 2009Light gold. Profound, elegant noseblending a mineral and lemonycharacter with toasted, menthol-like undercurrents. Astonishing fullness, finesse, lightnessand freshness on the palate. The aromas are augmentedby a lingering mineral dimension. A superlative wine.
98/100
MEURSAULT-CHARMES PREMIER CRU A.C.Domaine Guy BocardVintage 2008 Bright, pale yellow. Profoundnose showing great finesse.Midway between fruity (lemon)and mineral aromatics. The palateshows textbook harmony, full,fat and ethereal. Refined texture framed by freshness.Substantial persistency.
96/100
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
Pommard A.C.
93/100 Château de Pommard Grand Vin 2008 54.00 €
93/100 Domaine Coste-Caumartin 1er Cru
Le Clos des Boucherottes - Monopole 2009 29.60 €
92/100 Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure
1er Cru Clos des Charmots 2009 21.00 €
Pouilly-Fuissé A.C.
93/100 Domaine Auvigue Cuvée Hors Classe 2009 17.00 €
91/100 Denis Jeandeau Secret Minéral 2009 26.00 €
91/100 Château de Pouilly ”Cuvée 1551” 2008 18.00 €
91/100 Domaine Roger Luquet Vieilles Vignes 2009 14.80 €
90/100 Domaine Corsin L'Exception -
Vieilles Vignes 2006 29.00 €
90/100 La Source des Fées Cep Eternel 2009 18.80 €
90/100 Sophie Cinier Vers Cras 2008 18.50 €
90/100 Domaine Pierre Desroches Vintage 2009 10.40 €
Puligny-Montrachet A.C.
93/100 Paul Pernot et ses Fils 1er Cru Folatières 2009 28.00 €
92/100 Domaine Henri Prudhon & fils
Les Enseignères 2008 20.00 €
Saint-Aubin A.C.
90/100 Bader-Mimeur 1er Cru En Rémilly 2009 15.50 €
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 33
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Santenay A.C.
91/100 David Moreau 1er Cru Clos Rousseau 2009 25.00 €
Volnay A.C.
92/100 Domaine Poulleau Père & Fils 1er Cru 2009 29.30 €
90/100 Domaine Réyane & Pascal Bouley
1er Cru Robardelle 2008 23.10 €
Vosne Romanée A.C.
97/100 Domaine Michel Gros
1er Cru Clos des Réas - Monopole 2004 41.50 €
Vougeot A.C.
93/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc
de Vougeot - Monopole 20.08 €
LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
Banyuls A.C.
90/100 Les Clos de Paulilles Cap Béar 2007 15.70 €
Banyuls Grand Cru A.C.
94/100 Domaine du Traginer Vintage 2003 20.00 €
Cabardès A.C.
90/100 Cave La Malepère Révolution 2007 16.50 €
Corbières A.C.
92/100 Cave Coopérative de Castelmaure
”Cuvée N° 3” 2008 18.90 €
91/100 Les Caves Rocbère Ténor 2010 15.00 €
91/100 Domaine Haut Saint Georges Vintage 2009 4.55 €
90/100 Domaine de Longueroche Cuvée Aurélien 2008 9.60 €
90/100 Château Beauregard Mirouze Fiaire 2007 24.00 €
Côtes du Roussillon A.C.
91/100 Château de Lacroix Réserve 2010 15.00 €
90/100 Château Saint Nicolas Nicolaus 20.08 €
Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France A.C.
92/100 Domaine de Rancy Vintage 2006 12.00 €
Côtes du Roussillon-Villages A.C.
93/100 Domaine Arguti Ugo 2009 12.00 €
90/100 Dom Brial Vintage 2005 24.00 €
Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Tautavel A.C.
92/100 Domaine Fontanel Prieuré 2009 16.00 €
Faugères A.C.
92/100 Château de Grézan Les Schistes Dorés 2008 22.00 €
91/100 Abbaye Sylva Plana Le Songe de l'Abbé 2008 15.00 €
Fitou A.C.
90/100 Château de Montmal Vintage 2010 7.90 €
90/100 Caves du Mont Tauch Montmal 2009 12.50 €
Hérault I.G.P.
92/100 Domaine Verchant Cuvée Marcelle 2006 9.00 €
Languedoc A.C.
93/100 Stella Nova Les Pléiades 2005 14.50 €
34 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
90/100 Château La Clotte -
Fontane Mouton La Clotte 2009 13.00 €
90/100 La Grange Icône - Castalides 2009 26.90 €
90/100 Château la Vernède Caecilia 2008 21.00 €
Languedoc Grès de Montpellier A.C.
93/100Mas du Novi Prestigi 2007 10.30 €
91/100 Domaine Saint-Jean du Noviciat Novi 2006 18.50 €
Languedoc La Clape A.C.
92/100 Château des Karantes Vintage 2009 14.00 €
90/100 Château Rouquette sur
Mer Cuvée Henry Lapierre 2008 18.95 €
90/100 Château Mire l'Etang
Cuvée des Ducs de Fleury 2008 11.00 €
Languedoc Montpeyroux A.C.
90/100 Villa Dondona Vintage 2009 9.50 €
Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup A.C.
93/100 Domaine de Villeneuve Chant des Roches 2007 16.00 €
93/100Mas Thélème Exultet 2007 15.00 €
92/100 Bergerie du Capucin Larmanela 2008 18.00 €
91/100 Château l'Euzière Les Escarboucles 2009 13.80 €
90/100 Domaine Les Grandes Costes Vintage 2008 17.50 €
Languedoc Saint-Georges d'Orques A.C.
93/100 Château de l'Engarran
Cuvée Quetton Saint-Georges 2007 17.90 €
Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac A.C.
93/100Mas de la Seranne Antonin et Louis 2008 18.40 €
91/100 Domaine Le Clos du Serres le florilège 2005 15.00 €
Maury A.C.
90/100 La Coume du Roy 50 cl 1998 25.60 €
Minervois A.C.
92/100 Domaine Pierre Fil Cuvée Orebus 2009 10.00 €
90/100 Château Villerambert Julien Millesime 2006 15.00 €
90/100 Château d'Agel In Extremis 2008 25.00 €
Minervois La Livinière A.C.
90/100 Domaine Aimé Au gré du vent 2007 9.00 €
Muscat de Frontignan A.C.
90/100Mas de Madame ”Vendanges 5” 2010 13.50 €
Pays d'Oc I.G.P.
93/100 Aubai Mema La Douzième 2006 15.00 €
Rivesaltes A.C.
95/100 Domaine de Besombes Le Grenat 2008 12.00 €
93/100 Château Rombeau Ambré - 50 cl 7.00 €
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ADVERTORIAL
ROCBÈRE’S STORAGE AND WINEMAKING CAPACITY HAS INCREASED
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Corbières, Chalan, Port-la-Nouvelle, Peyriac-de-Mer and Monze.Posting a turnover of 11 million euros in 2010, the winery ownsaround twenty brands including Le Grand Opéra and Le Vent Marin,both flagship labels within the Rocbère range. The Rocbère and TerraVinea brands are also of paramount importance in promoting thewinery’s reputation.
LES CAVES ROCBÈRE
Sales director: Jean-Michel Mora
Tel. +33 (0)6 11 50 68 12 - Tel. direct line +33 (0)4 68 48 70 65
Skype: jm.mora - [email protected]
Don’t miss!TERRA VINEA, CHEMIN DES PLATRIÈRES, PORTEL-DES-CORBIÈRES
From Narbonne, take the RN 9 towards Sigean then follow the road
to Portel-dès-Corbières - Entry fee: adults €8.50, children aged 6-9 €1, children aged 10-14 €3.50 - Open daily
Tel. +33 (0)4 68 48 64 90 - www.terra-vinea.com
Les Caves RocbèrePortel-des-Corbières:
Rocbère invests in combinedwine making facilities
T he Rocbère winery in Portel-des-Corbières is the largestproducer in the Corbières appellation. It accounts for 10% of the appellation’s overall output and has recently
launched a 4 million euro investment programme investmentprogramme. The winery was formed by the merger of thePeyriac-de-Mer, Portel-des-Corbières and Sigean co-operatives, joined in 2008 by the co-operative in Monze. Itsintention is to build combined wine making, bottling and storagefacilities for wines from the group’s four wineries. Work wasrecently completed and Rocbère’s storage and wine makingcapacity has increased from 75,000 hl to 160,000 hl.
An extension housing ten new 600-hl and sixteen 260-hl tankswith a combined capacity of 10,000 hl stands against the existingwinery. A new building currently houses 79,000 hl of wine. Inaddition to this, the existing vat cellar holds around 63,000 hland nearly 2,500 hl are aged in two thousand oak barrelsstored in the underground cellars of Terra Vinea. Rocbère alsoboasts two overseas offices, one in China, the other in Cambodia.In France, it owns six of its own shops in Sigean, Portel-des-
36 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
Quarts de Chaume A.C.
94/100 Domaine des Baumard Vintage 2008 34.00 €
Sancerre A.C.
94/100 Domaine de la Perrière Mégalithe 2008 n/a
93/100 Domaine Jean-Max Roger Vieilles Vignes 2008 17.00 €
92/100 Henri Bourgeois La Bourgeoise 2008 20.00 €
92/100 Prieur Pierre et Fils Cuvée Maréchal Prieur 2009 13.00 €
92/100 Domaine du Carrou Cuvée ”La Jouline” -
Vieilles Vignes 2009 14.50 €
91/100 Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Les Anges Lots 2009 14.00 €
91/100Matthias et Emile Roblin Ammonites 2009 13.00 €
91/100 Domaine Vacheron Domaine 2010 15.00 €
91/100 Domaine La Gemière Ambre -
Cuvée Spéciale 2009 10.10 €
90/100 Domaine Henry Natter
Cuvée François de La Grange de Montigny 2008 n/a
90/100 Dionysia Vin des Héros 2010 n/a
90/100Michel Vattan Cuvée Argile 2009 8.00 €
Saumur A.C.
91/100 Château de Brézé Clos David 2010 30.00 €
Saumur Champigny A.C.
92/100 Domaine de Nerleux Les Loups Noirs 2008 13.50 €
90/100 Domaine Langlois Chateau Vieilles Vignes 2005 13.95 €
Saumur Puy Notre Dame
92/100 Domaine de la Paleine Moulin des Quints 2008 15.00 €
© BIV
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BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 Light yellow. Enticing, focused nosemarrying white flowers and notes ofpeach and almond. More, very focusedwhite peach aromatics on the palate.Rich, fleshy, fresh and very harmonious.A wine for pleasure. Drink now.
90/100
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
90/100 Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Vintage 2010 7.50 €
Savennières A.C.
94/100 Château d'Epiré Cuvée Spéciale 2009 14.50 €
91/100 Domaine du Closel -
Château des Vaults Les Caillardières 2004 14.30 €
Touraine A.C.
90/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay Sauvignon blanc 2010 5.50 €
90/100 Famille Gaillard Sauvignon 2010 n/a
PROVENCE
Bandol A.C.
94/100 La Bastide Blanche Cuvée Fontanéou 2008 18.00 €
93/100 Château la Rouvière Vintage 2006 21.50 €
92/100 Domaine La Suffrène Cuvée Les Lauves 2008 18.00 €
91/100 Château Pradeaux Vintage 2006 22.00 €
90/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 15.00 €
Continued on page 39
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 37
Saint-Chinian A.C.
93/100Mas de Cynanque Amicytia 2008 16.00 €
92/100 Henri et Laurent Miquel Larmes des Fées 2007 32.00 €
90/100 Château Belot Best of Belot 2008 17.50 €
90/100 Domaine La Madura Vintage 2007 15.90 €
Saint-Chinian Roquebrun A.C.
92/100 Cave de Roquebrun Baron d'Aupenac 2008 21.65 €
Vin de Pays de l'Hérault
92/100 Domaine Virgile Joly Virgile 2005 24.00 €
Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel
94/100 Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel n/a
92/100Mas des Dames La Diva 2007 12.00 €
Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
91/100 Les Terres de Mallyce Pierres de Lune 2008 11.00 €
Vin de Pays d'Oc
91/100 Château de Gourgazaud Quintus 2008 16.90 €
LOIRE VALLEY
Anjou Villages Brissac A.C.
93/100 Château La Varière La Grande Chevalerie 2009 19.00 €
90/100 Domaine des Rochelles Les Millerits 2008 17.00 €
Bonnezeaux A.C.
91/100 Domaine de la Couchetière Beauregard 2009 13.60 €
Bourgueil A.C.
90/100 Vignobles des Robinières L'Ormeau de Maure 2009 6.50 €
Chinon A.C.
92/100 Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2008 20.00 €
92/100 Domaine Charles Pain Château de Naie 2007 12.00 €
90/100 Domaine Dozon L'Exception 2006 9.10 €
90/100 Château de Saint Louans Vintage 2008 30.00 €
90/100 Domaine de Noiré Caractère 2008 10.50 €
Coteaux de l'Aubance A.C.
96/100 Domaine de Montgilet Les Trois Schistes 2009 16.50 €
93/100 Domaine d'Orgigné Vintage 2009 10.30 €
91/100 Domaine de Haute Perche Les Fontenelles 2009 14.50 €
Coteaux de Saumur A.C.
93/100 Château de Targé 50 cl 2009 21.00 €
Coteaux du Layon Faye d'Anjou A.C.
90/100 Domaine de Trompe-Tonneau Vintage 2010 7.40 €
Coteaux du Layon Rablay A.C.
90/100 Château La Tomaze Cuvée des Lys 2010 15.00 €
Menetou-Salon A.C.
91/100 La Tour Saint-Martin Honorine 2008 18.00 €
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine A.C.
93/100 Château du Coing de Saint Fiacre L'Ancestrale 2005 9.50 €
90/100 Clisson Vintage 2006 10.00 €
90/100 Château de la Gravelle Gorges 2005 9.50 €
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie A.C.
90/100 Domaine Martin Luneau Gorges 2005 8.90 €
Pouilly-Fumé A.C.
93/100 Philippe Raimbault Les Lumeaux 2010 9.20 €
93/100 Gitton père & fils Nebula 2008 18.95 €
93/100 Château de Tracy 101 Rangs 2008 60.00 €
92/100 Jean Pabiot et Fils Cuvée Séduction 2008 13.90 €
92/100 Domaine Dominique Pabiot Cuvée Plaisir 2010 12.70 €
91/100 Le Domaine Saget Roches 2008 n/a
90/100 Les Charmilles Vintage 2010 n/a
90/100 Domaine Serge Dagueneau & filles
Clos des Chaudoux 2008 18.00 €
90/100 Domaine Chauveau Cuvée Sainte Clélie 2009 9.00 €
90/100 Domaine Champeau Silex 2010 7.50 €
SANCERRE A.C. Domaine Jean-Max RogerVieilles Vignes 2008Light yellow. Expressive nosewith exotic accents (mango,grapefruit). The palate is rich, fulland delicate. More of the same very convincingaromatics carried over impressive length. An excellentwine pairing with noble fish or shellfish.
93/100
SAUMUR PUY-NOTRE-DAMEDomaine de la Paleine Moulin des Quints 2008 Concentrated hue. Distinctive nosewith vegetal-like aromatics (bellpepper) backed by spice and ripefruits. An authentic, no frills style buoyed by typicalCabernet Franc aromas framed by supple stuffingand melted tannins. Extremely successful achievement.
92/100
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
a wine grower and to leverage
all the property’s assets. The
engineer and wine maker Pierre
Guérin currently provides her
support and draws on the
experience of a team of 30
specialists to analyse each
stage of the process: planting
rights, marketing targets, choice
of viticultural and wine making
techniques, compliance with
regulations, dealings with
the relevant authorities and
suppliers…
After a thorough audit, an
investment plan was drawn up
and the estate was literally
transformed in just a few years.
The consultancy’s expertise and
commitment to the local wine
community ensured that success
came quickly. The estate rapidly
grew by 25 percent in size, the
profile of the wines was raised
and bottle sales saw a quantum
leap to nearly 100 % and
conservation of this magical
site was ensured by compliance with
“Nutrition Méditerranéenne”
specifications - achievements
that would normally have taken
a generation to accomplish.
ADVERTORIAL
Domaine de Saint-Ser:the jewel in the Sainte-Victoire crownDomaine de Saint-Ser’s 33 hectares of vines
are entirely located within the Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire appellation area which boasts its own idiosyncratic
geology and climate. The vines bask in exceptional sunshine on hillsides facing
due south where the white mountain stone magnifies the sun’s rays.
T his sunlight promotes
photosynthesis and
leads to greater fruit
concentration. The clay-
limestone soil is stony, poor and
exceptionally deep. It has built
up from the erosion of the Sainte-
Victoire mountain towering
above the estate and promotes
regular growth in the vineyard.
Integrated pest management is
used and the soils are enriched
only with organic fertilisers.
The vines are trellised to promote
healthy fruit. The climate is
Mediterranean with a distinct
continental influence and the
cool nights preserve the natural
acidity of the grapes.
FAST-TRACKSWITCH TOA NEW VOCATION
When Parisian pharmacist
Jacqueline Guichot took over
the estate in 2006, she recruited
the assistance of Provence
agronomic consultancy CAP to
help her in her new challenge as
PIERRE GUÉRIN, CAPCONSULTANT WINEMAKER RESPONSIBLEFOR DOMAINE DE
SAINT-SER
JACQUELINE GUICHOT,A PARISIAN
PHARMACIST, TOOKOVER THE ESTATE
IN 2006
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Domaine de Saint-SerRoute Cézanne - D17 - 13114 Puyloubier - FranceTel: +33 (0)4 42 66 30 81 - Fax: +33 (0)4 42 66 37 51
[email protected] - www.saint-ser.com
Cabinet d’Agronomie Provençale (CAP consultancy)Route des Vins sur Caramy - 83170 Brignoles
www.cabagronomie.fr
38 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 39
RHÔNE VALLEY
Châteauneuf-du-Pape A.C.
96/100 Domaine Galévan Saint-Georges 2009 52.00 €
95/100 Château de la Gardine
Cuvée des Générations Gaston Philippe 2007 54.00 €
94/100 Château Mont-Redon Vintage 2009 20.00 €
94/100 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret
Cuvée Exceptionnelle 2007 24.00 €
94/100 Domaine Juliette Avril Cuvée Maxence 2009 37.40 €
94/100 Domaine des 3 Cellier Privilège 2009 35.00 €
94/100 Patrice Lesec Cuvée Bargeton 2005 65.00 €
93/100 Château Simian Les Grandes Grenachières 2009 47.00 €
93/100 Clos Saint Pierre Urbi 2009 25.00 €
92/100 Domaine de la Mordorée La Reine des Bois 2009 44.00 €
91/100 Domaine de Nalys Eicelènci 2009 30.00 €
91/100 Bosquet des Papes Chante Le Merle -
Vieilles Vignes 2009 32.50 €
90/100 Domaine Moulin-Tacussel Vintage 2009 22.00 €
90/100 Château Beauchêne Grande Réserve 2009 5.60 €
90/100 Lavau Vintage 2010 17.90 €
Condrieu A.C.
93/100 Domaine Grangier Les Terrasses 2009 22.00 €
90/100 Domaine Boissonnet Vintage 2009 23.00 €
Cornas A.C.
94/100 Domaine Courbis La Sabarotte 2007 44.00 €
93/100 Domaine Michelas - St Jemms Les Murettes 2009 25.00 €
Costières de Nîmes A.C.
92/100 Château de Valcombe Garance 2009 16.00 €
© FR
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90/100 Domaine Ott Château Romassan 2007 22.50 €
Coteaux d'Aix en Provence A.C.
90/100 Château Vignelaure Vintage 2005 20.50 €
Coteaux Varois En Provence A.C.
91/100 Domaine du Deffends Champs de la Truffière 2007 11.80 €
90/100 Château d'Ollières Clos de L'Ermitage 2009 17.50 €
Côtes de Provence A.C.
92/100 Château Saint-Pierre Cuvée Baptiste 2004 16.00 €
92/100 Château de Peyrassol Vintage 2010 14.00 €
92/100 Château Roubine Terre de Croix 2006 17.20 €
92/100 Château Minuty Prestige 2010 15.00 €
91/100 Jas d'Esclans Vintage 2010 8.20 €
90/100 Château de Berne Cuvée Spéciale 2010 n/a
90/100 Château la Tour de l'Evêque
Habillage Noir et Or 2005 20.50 €
90/100 Château Sainte Roseline Cuvée Prieuré 2009 16.20 €
90/100 Château des Demoiselles Vintage 2010 10.60 €
90/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Prestige Caroline 2009 16.00 €
90/100 Domaine de la Croix Eloge 2010 13.00 €
Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C.
91/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2009 15.30 €
90/100 Domaine Saint André de Figuière
Confidentielle 2009 26.30 €
Les Baux de Provence A.C.
92/100 Château Romanin Vintage 2007 17.00 €
91/100Mas de la Dame Coin Caché 2008 20.00 €
40 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
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91/100Mas des Bressades Cuvée Excellence 2009 9.50 €
90/100 Château Mourgues du Gres
Les Capitelles 2009 13.50 €
90/100 Château Saint-Louis La Perdrix
Cuvée Marianne 2010 8.52 €
Côte Rôtie A.C.
96/100 Domaine Pichat Les Grandes Places 2008 48.00 €
95/100 Domaine Niero Vintage 2009 28.00 €
94/100 Benjamin et David Duclaux Maison Rouge 2009 45.00 €
93/100 De Boisseyt-Chol Côte Blonde 2009 36.00 €
93/100 Domaine André François Gerine 2005 28.00 €
93/100 Domaine Chambeyron Vintage 2008 25.00 €
91/100 Domaine de Rosiers Vintage 2009 27.00 €
Côtes du Rhône A.C.
90/100 Domaine Nicolas Croze L'Epicurienne 2009 9.80 €
90/100 Brézème Bresemus Eram 2007 21.00 €
Côtes du Rhône-Villages A.C.
90/100 Vieux Manoir du Frigoulas Cuvée Dionysos 2007 5.70 €
Crozes-Hermitage A.C.
90/100 Domaine Betton Caprice 2009 13.00 €
Gigondas A.C.
93/100 Domaine Brusset Les Hauts de Montmirail 2009 21.00 €
Hermitage A.C.
95/100 Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Emilie 2009 33.70 €
95/100 Romain Duvernay Vintage 2009 28.50 €
Lirac A.C.
90/100 Domaine Maby Nessun Dorma 2009 15.90 €
Luberon A.C.
90/100 Château La Verrerie Grand Deffand 2006 27.00 €
Saint-Joseph A.C.
92/100 Domaine Farjon Ma Sélection 2009 13.00 €
90/100 Cave de Saint-Désirat Septentrio 2008 12.80 €
90/100 Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne Vintage 2007 15.00 €
90/100 Guy Farge terre de granit 2009 13.00 €
Vacqueyras A.C.
93/100 1717 Vintage 2009 31.00 €
Vinsobres A.C.
92/100 Clos des Echalas Vintage 2007 23.00 €
SOUTH-WEST
Cahors A.C.
93/100 Château Eugénie Haute Collection 2008 20.00 €
93/100 Château Pineraie L'Authentique 2008 20.00 €
91/100 Château du Cèdre Le Cèdre 2008 30.00 €
RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 41
91/100 Château de Gaudou Réserve de Caillau 2009 25.00 €
91/100 Clos Triguedina Baldès Prestige 2008 29.00 €
91/100Mas del Périé La Roque 2009 12.00 €
90/100 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec 2008 13.90 €
90/100 Château de Mercuès Malbec 2008 13.50 €
90/100 Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 7.00 €
Haut-Montravel A.C.
95/100 Château Dauzan la Vergne
Elevé en fûts de chêne 2001 13.90 €
93/100 Puy-Servain Terremont 2007 18.90 €
Jurançon A.C.
94/100 Domaine Cauhapé Noblesse du Temps 2008 28.50 €
94/100 Domaine Bru-Baché
L'Eminance du Domaine Bru-Baché 2006 50.00 €
91/100 Domaine Nigri ”Toute une Histoire” 2009 14.00 €
Madiran A.C.
97/100 Château Montus La Tyre 2005 n/a
90/100 Château Viella Prestige 2008 12.00 €
90/100 Château Bouscassé Vintage 2008 n/a
90/100 Domaine Capmartin L'esprit du Couvent 2008 17.00 €
Monbazillac A.C.
90/100 Château Bélingard Blanche de Bosredon 2007 24.00 €
Montravel A.C.
90/100 L'Excellence du Château Le Castellot Vintage 2003 12.00 €
Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec A.C.
90/100 Château Laffitte-Teston Ericka 2009 9.10 €
Pécharmant A.C.
91/100 Château de Tiregand Grand Vintage 2008 19.80 €
Pineau des Charentes A.C.
90/100 Domaine du Feynard Vieux Pineau blanc 16.00 €
MADIRAN A.C. Château de Viella Prestige 2008 Inky hue. Very classic nose of ripe blackberry fruits coupled with slightly roastedoak. On the palate, huge density,abundant tannins yet ripe, elegant andharmonious across the palate. A youngwine with all the prerequisite qualities to mature well.
90/100
FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114
Saussignac A.C.
92/100 Château Court-Les-Mûts 50 cl 2005 n/a
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne
95/100 Domaine du Tariquet Les Dernières Grives 2009 14.00 €
92/100 Domaine La Hitaire Jardin d'Hiver 2009 8.50 €
Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan
90/100 Blanc Renaissance Vintage 2010 7.60 €
OTHER VINEYARDS
CORSICA
Muscat du Cap Corse A.C.
90/100 Domaine Gentile Vintage 2010 17.50 €
Vin de Corse Calvi A.C.
90/100 Clos Culombu Ribbe Rosse 2009 18.30 €
Vin de Corse Figari A.C.
90/100 Domaine de Tanella
Grande Réserve de la Cuvée Alexandra 2009 15.00 €
JURA
Arbois A.C.
90/100 Jacques Tissot Naturé 2009 9.80 €
90/100 Domaine Amélie Guillot Savagnin -
Vieilles Vignes 2004 16.00 €
Château-Chalon A.C.
90/100 Fruitière Vinicole de Voiteur Vin Jaune 2004 26.75 €
L'Etoile A.C.
90/100 Domaine de Montbourgeau Vin Jaune 2004 28.00 €
SAVOY
Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron A.C.
91/100 Les Fils de René Quénard La Bergeronnelle 2010 12.00 €
VIN DE TABLE
91/100 Grains Folie d'Inès Vintage 2007 18.00 €
42 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
REGION
T he wines of South West France are classified into 18
AOPs (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) and 21 IGPs
(Indication Géographique Protégée). They come from
some of the oldest vineyards in France, which cover a total area
of 50,000 hectares. The viticultural region stretches from
Irouléguy, close to the Pyrenees, some 500 kilometres north-
east of Toulouse, to include the tiny, new AOP of Entraygues et
Fel. The region as a whole produces 450 million bottles, has
5000 vignerons, 1000 independent producers, 23 cooperative
wineries and 20 brokers.
DISAPPOINTINGThis region is far from insignificant: its production volume is
over twice that of Burgundy (excluding Beaujolais), and deserves
our attention. Yet if one was to visit an average wine shop in
London and ask for a bottle of wine from the South West of
France, the choice would not be staggering - or rather, it would
be staggeringly small, given the favourable quality-to-price
ratio. Wines from this part of France tend to be restricted to
specialist, independent merchants. While this is good for the
Richard Craig asks: are these wines suffering from an identity crisis?
The mysterious wines of South West France
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The mysterious wines of South West France
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 43
merchants, constantly striving for points of difference, it is not
good for volume sales, the economy of the region and the
wealth of its people. So why does this happen?
PERCEPTIONThe wines of South West France lie in the shadow of mighty
Bordeaux in terms of volume and economic wealth. Many city
folk in London, New York and Hong Kong spend several
thousand euros on Bordeaux en primeur and believe that red
wine production in France begins in the Haut Médoc and ends
in Saint-Emilion. It is a common perception that the wines of
the Sud-Ouest are cheaper, less good versions of Bordeaux.
DORDOGNE, IN OR OUT?This can be true of the AOP’s of Bergerac whose viticultural
boundaries are adjacent to AOP Bordeaux and whose grape
varieties are almost identical. In fact, before the viticultural
boundaries were drawn up and delimited to the department of
Gironde, the wines of Bergerac and its surrounding area were
sold successfully as generic Bordeaux. Nowadays, going it
alone, it has been more of a struggle. Bergerac’s wine-growing
region consists of 13 different red, white and rosé AOPs spread
over 93 communes and covering an area of 12,000 hectares. The
red wines are certainly very bordelais in character, consisting of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with very
few producers using the permitted Cot, Fer Servadou and
Merille (a grape usually used for Vin de Table).
The red wines appellations within the Bergerac viticultural
area are - in ascending order of quality - Bergerac Rouge, Côtes
du Bergerac, Montravel and Pécharmant. Montravel was granted
AOC for its white wines in 1937 but it was not until 2001 that
the red wines were included. Today, of the 1,800,000 litres
produced, only 200,000 are red. These high quality reds must
contain at least 50% Merlot, with the remainder being the
Cabernets and Cot. Good producers include Château Moulin
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44 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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THE 2,400 HECTARES OF FRONTONVINEYARDS HAVE BEEN
AOC-CLASSIFIED SINCE 1975
Garreau, Château Moulin Caresse, Château Puy Servain and
Clos Julien.
Pécharmant (meaning charming hill) is solely a red wine AOP
and can be found to the north-east of the town of Bergerac.
The AOC was granted in 1936 and encompasses the communes
of Bergerac, Creysse and Lemras. As in Montravel, due to the
declining moderating maritime influence, the earlier ripening
Merlot dominates the blends. Look out for Château Tiregand,
Domaine des Costes, Domaine de Closerie and Domaine du
Haut-Pécharmant.
The wines of Bergerac are not blessed with an identity that one
can latch on to. Is it in Bordeaux or Sud-Ouest? The truth is
that no-one is really sure. Undoubtedly the quality is forever
rising, with many producers adopting organic viticulture and
non-interventionist winemaking practices. The Conseil
Interprofessionnel des Vins de la Région de Bergerac makes
strenuous efforts to promote the region and is successful, with
quality and value being the main focus. An £8 bottle of
Bergerac is likely to offer far more interest and enjoyment
than a bottle of Bordeaux at the same price.
DEFINITELY NOT BORDEAUXBeyond Bergerac, the “tastes like Bordeaux” charge is less justified.
Merlots and Cabernets, whilst permitted in most regions,
becomes less dominant, with local varieties becoming more
prevalent. These local varieties are great for wine diversity but
a nightmare for marketeers, particularly when the same grapes
are known by different names in different areas, as is often the
case. They are however still marketed - quite rightly - as wines
with a difference. The problem is that most consumers are not
drawn to “different” and hence most professional wine buyers
do not buy these “different” wines. Changing people's habits to
include a new taste sensation is not going to happen overnight
but it is a truly worthwhile quest.
THE TASKThe vineyards of the South-West date back to Roman times
and tradition still plays an important role in the wines of
today. Many of the AOCs and the newly promoted AOPs are
quite remote geographically and inward-looking. The
Interprofession des Vins du Sud-Ouest has faced an up-hill
struggle to amalgamate this diverse and fragmented region of
5,000 wine makers, persuading them to adopt a coherent marketing
and export plan. Exports constitute only 15% of total sales. If
one compares the task faced by the Interprofession des Vins
du Sud-Ouest with that of similar trade and marketing bodies
in Burgundy (where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varietals are
easy to pronounce and non-blended) or in Provence (where
the huge success of Provence rosé begs the question, “do they
produce anything else?”), one can understand their difficulties.
THE ONE AND ONLYThe 2,400 hectares of Fronton vineyards have been AOC-classified
since 1975. The almost unique Négrette variety (locally
known as Folle Noire) thrives on the ferrous quartz and gravel
soils of the appellation. This variety is almost unknown anywhere
else, save for a tiny acreage in Lavilledieu, between the Tarn
and Garonne rivers, just north of Fronton and also, bizarrely,
in California where it is known as Pinot St George. In Fronton,
it is stipulated that Négrette, high in colour but low in acidity
and tannins, must constitute 50% of the appellation's reds,
with Fer Servadou, Syrah and the Cabernets making up the
rest of the blends to give the wines more power. There are
however a number of producers making wines of 100% Négrette
(for example, Château Bellevue La Forêt's cuvée Ce Vin) still
labelled as AOP Fronton, so clearly it is a flexible stipulation.
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The mysterious wines of South West France
WINE BARSToday, many Cahors wines, particularly those from the lower
slopes and alluvial flats of the Lot River, are of a much less
challenging nature. Yields are higher, production volumes are
greater, percentages of Merlot higher, and the individuality of
MALBEC OR...?Cahors is Malbec, Cot, Cot Noire or Auxerrois country, depending
on opinion. The 4,200 hectares were awarded full AOC status
in 1971 and the wines must contain at least 70% Malbec, with
the remaining percentage being either Tannat and/or Merlot.
Cahors is refreshingly unique in South West France in not
permitting Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc in the
blends. The traditional “black wine” of the Lot is now almost
non-existent. The wine that comes closest is made by Clos
Triguedina: it is 100% Cot and named “The New Black Wine -
cuvée L’Exception.”
TERROIR-DRIVENIsabelle Rey-Auriat makes three wines from her organic 14-
hectare estate in the commune of Soturac. Her top wine,
Cuvée ‘A’, is 100% Vieille Vignes Cot from a 3.5-hectare
vineyard on the plateau. It is full, rich and broody, but retains
its elegance. Château Les Hauts d’Aglan (7 hectares, from the
same high plateau) is 90% Cot, 10% Merlot (a restrained and
vibrant wine); Château Marjolière, coming from the lower
slopes with 20% Merlot, is ripe and pure. Oak does not feature
in any of Isabelle's wines, as she prefers the varietal characteristics
and the terroir of her vineyard to shine through.
THE GREAT SITE OF CHÂTEAU LESBOUYSSES, ONE OF THE MAJORESTATES IN THE APPELLATION
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46 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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the wines has decreased. These wines are increasingly being
labelled as Malbec (a variety that is very successful in its
Argentinian guise) and are now finding success in wine bars
amongst francophile drinkers.
TANNIC TANNATThe 1,400 hectares of AOP Madiran straddle the departments
of Hautes-Pyrénées, Gers and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. The area
has 200 producers who make 60,000 hectolitres of wine.
Tannat is the main red variety in Madiran where it has to make
up 40% (and not more than 60%) of the blend. The remainder
can be from Bouchy (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Pinenc (Fer or
Fer Servadou). In practice, the upper limit does not appear to
be enforced, as many examples exist of 100% Tannat.
With his two estates, Château Montus and Château Bouscasse,
Alain Brumont is clearly a leading figure in the appellation: he
has 300 hectares of vines producing 1.6 million bottles. The
12-hectare estate Domaine Pichard (not owned by Brumont
Enterprises) is in the commune of Soublecause. It was first
planted to vines in 1955 by Auguste Vigneau. His aim was to
produce long-lived, structured wines, a tradition continued by
his nephew René Tachouère. In 2004, unable to pass on the
estate to his son, René sold the estate to brothers-in-law Jean
Sentilles and Rod Cork. The estate has received much-needed
investment in the vineyard, and the cellar has been modernised.
The wines have hence changed. Whilst clearly Madiran, Jean
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THE MADIRAN AREA HAS 200 PRODUCERS WHO MAKE 60,000 HECTOLITRES OF WINE
TANNAT IS THE MAIN RED VARIETY IN MADIRAN
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Sentilles has instigated a more modern style of wine making
like many winegrowers in the region, using shorter maceration,
micro-oxygenation and barrique ageing to produce wines
approachable when young but with ageing potential. Other
top estates include Domaine Capmartin, Domaine
Berthoumieu and the excellent regional co-operative Plaimont
Producteurs.
Gaillac has had AOC status for its red wines since 1970, and
for its whites since 1938. Due to its perfect vine-growing
conditions, a huge variety of wines and styles are made. The
red Duras variety, related to Petit Verdot, is almost exclusive to
Gaillac. It produces fairly robust and rustic wines and is
usually blended with Braucol (Fer Servadou) and Syrah. These
three must make up to 60% of the blend. The Cabernets,
Merlot and Gamay are also allowed, though the Gamay is
usually made as a single varietal, Gaillac Nouveau.
The appellation of Marcillac, granted in 1990, is situated to
the north-west of Rodez, in the Aveyron department. It is
small (170 hectares) and produces 8,000 hectolitres of red
wine only. It is also practically a monoculture, with Mansois
(Fer Servadou) making up 90% of the wines (the remaining
10% comes from Prunelard, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot).
The 210-hectare AOP of Irouléguy lies in the foothills of the
Pyrenees: it produces 550,000 litres of wine, 70% of which is
red. This Basque country vineyard sticks closely to its very own
grape nomenclature, with Bordelesa Beltza being Tannat,
Axeria being Cabernet Franc and Axeria Handia being
Cabernet Sauvignon. These are the only grapes allowed for the
red wines. La Cave Irouléguy is the main producer, but good
wines are produced by Peio Espil’s Domaine Ilaria (only 2,500
cases are made) and Domaine Brana.
PERSONAL PERSONALITYIt is a conundrum for many as to how the South West region
should be represented on the world stage. However fun the
idea of ordering a glass of Fer Servadou, Auxerrois or
Bordelesa Beltza in a metropolitan wine bar might be, it is
highly unlikely to happen. Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Merlot and
the very trendy Malbec are the norm. However, the thought of
the wines of the Sud-Ouest going down this route of copy-cat
varieties, producing wines lacking in identity, provenance and
interest, fills me with dread. They would become lost in the
sea of mediocrity that is often found in generic wines. Many
producers are now making less-challenging wines “in the style
of” Madiran, Gaillac, Marcillac and so on which are gaining market
share in bars and restaurants. These wines are also providing the
population at large with an introduction to the region's wines.
Different flavours, different grapes, different nomenclature
plus education and perseverance will no doubt delight an
ever-more curious and adventurous public.Richard Craig
The mysterious wines of South West France
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 47
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GAILLAC USE SOME AMAZING VARIETIES LIKE DURAS AND BRAUCOL
Champagne is the best sparkling
wine in the world - or rather, let
me qualify this statement by
saying that the best Champagnes
are the best sparkling wines in
the world. There is however an
awful lot of mediocre and
occasionally poor Champagne on
the market from the big houses,
cooperatives and growers alike.
With prices of Champagne
reaching astronomical levels,
(Moet & Chandon NV currently
sells in New York for around $40,
and in London for £30), in these
difficult times it might well be a
good idea not only to switch your
brand, but to switch your region.
Sparkling wines are made throughout France and many of
them are seriously worth consideration and purchasing,
not just for economic reasons but also for variety. After
the top Champagnes, Crémants are the next at the top of the
quality tree of French sparkling wines.
There are 7 AOC Crémants in France, namely d'Alsace, de
Bordeaux, de Bourgogne, de Die, de Jura, de Limoux and de Loire.
It is stipulated that the grapes for all Crémants must be hand-
harvested, yields should not exceed that of the AOC, and the
wines need to be aged for at least one year after dégorgement
before release. They are made in the traditional method where a
second fermentation takes place in the bottle, ageing on lees
followed by remuage, dégorgement and dosage.
48 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
QUALITY FACTORS
Sparkling wine:bubbling over with success
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THE BIG THREECrémant d'Alsace was granted AOC-status in 1975 and
production is around 250,000 hectolitres a year, which is 21% of
the total AOC Alsace wine production. Pinot Blanc is the main
variety, with Riesling, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and
Chardonnay also used. Rosé Crémant d'Alsace can only be made
from Pinot Noir. Sales in 2010 in France were up by 12% on the
previous year. Excluding Champagne, it is the highest selling
“drink at home” sparkling wine. Exports are also up by 19%, and
a staggering 176% up on 2008.
The Loire Valley is the largest sparkling wine producing region
outside Champagne, though by no means all the production is
THERE ARE 7 AOC CRÉMANTS IN FRANCE, NAMELY D'ALSACE, DE BORDEAUX, DE BOURGOGNE, DE DIE,
DE JURA, DE LIMOUX AND DE LOIRE
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Other sparklingwinesThere is another category of
sparkling appellation wines, this
time regional in scope, which can
only be made from the grape
varieties permitted for local still
wines and within a delineated area.
They are also made using the
traditional method with an initial
alcoholic fermentation followed by a
secondary fermentation in the bottle.
The Loire Valley is home to most of these wines, primarily
dry sparkling Saumur which is key to the success of the
reputable houses such as Veuve Amiot or Bouvet-
Ladubay. However, the Touraine appellations market a vast range of
wines from independent growers, made in conjunction with local
still appellation wines. This sets them apart from the other areas
and is true of Vouvray and Montlouis though especially of the dry
sparkling Touraine appellation with an output of 30,000 hectolitres.
These premium sparkling wines - or fines bulles as they are called - are
made primarily from Chenin, the great Touraine white grape
variety. It has an assertive personality and makes marvellous dry,
medium dry, sweet and… sparkling wines. Domaine des
Souterrains, located in Châtillon sur Cher (Loir et Cher) is one such
producer. Wine has been made here continuously since 1820. In
1982, it became one of the first producers in the region to supply
traditional method sparkling wines.
Like Crémants and even the prestigious Champagne, the wine
making process comprises several different phases. The first begins
with the filtered wine being bottled after the liqueur has been
added. This is usually a mixture of sugar and yeast designed to
produce a second fermentation in the bottle that will produce the
effervescence.
50 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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Crémant. Crémant de Loire was recognised as an AOC in 1975 and
in 2009 it produced 93,355 hectolitres, the vast majority of which
is in the hands of cooperatives and négociants in and around the
town of Saumur. The AOC area covers Anjou, Touraine and Saumur
and currently there are 1,600 hectares, planted predominantly with
Chenin Blanc, but also Chardonnay (increasingly important),
Arbois, Pinot Noir, Grolleau, La d'Aunis and Cabernet Franc.
Sauvignon Blanc is allowed though deemed unsuitable and rarely
used. Important AOCs within the all-encompassing Crémant de
Loire are Saumur Brut, Vouvray and Montlouis.
There are 1.6 million bottles of Crémant de Bourgogne exported
each year accounting for 8% of Burgundy's total wine production.
The main areas of production are Auxerre,
Chatillon-sur-Seine and the Côte Chalonnaise, principally Rully;
1,115 hectares are planted. Authorised grape varieties are
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Aligoté, Melon, Sacy and
Gamay “jus blanc” (maximum 20%). Mimicking Champagne, there
are four different categories of Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc which
must contain at least 30% of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir; Blanc de
Blancs, 100% Chardonnay; Blanc de Noirs, 100% Pinot Noir and
Crémant Rose, Pinot Noir and a small percentage of Gamay.
INTERESTING AND OBSCURECrémant de Die, recognised as recently as 1993, is the appellation
for the dry sparkling wine from the town of Die in the Rhône. It
must be made with at least 55% Clairette, with the addition of
Muscat à Petit Grains and Aligoté.
THE CAVE DE LUGNY, IN MACON,PRODUCES ABOUT 800,000 BOTTLES
OF SPARKLING WINE PER YEAR
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The second phase involves cellaring the bottles at a temperature of
13°C. By law, this stage must last for a minimum of nine months
and its purpose is to promote the transformation of sugar into
alcohol by the yeast, producing carbonic gas. Ultimately, pressure
will reach 5kg inside the bottle.
In the third phase, the bottles are placed onto riddle racks so that
the sediment - produced by fermentation - slips down into the
neck of the bottle. To achieve this, the bottles are turned every day
for a period of 15 to 18 days.
The ultimate phase is disgorgement whereby the sediment is
removed. Part of the bottle neck is frozen to trap the sediment
then, as the cork is removed, the ice is expelled by the pressure
that has accumulated during the secondary fermentation. Before
the bottle is corked for the last time, the dosage is added. The
amount of sugar it contains will determine whether the sparkling
wine is dry or medium dry.
Clearly, the wine making criteria for these wines are very bit as
stringent as those of the more prestigious appellations. Moreover,
they are often made from highly idiosyncratic local grape varieties
which gives them added charm. And last but by no means least:
the price tag. They rarely cost more than 5 or 6 euros a bottle.
Sparkling wines are an integral part of the Touraine wine heritage.
They are just begging to be rediscovered.
THE BOTTLES ARE TURNED EVERYDAY FOR A PERIOD OF 15 TO 18 DAYS
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these are juicy, attractive and generally less acidic wines than
more northern sparklers.
Blanquette de Limoux is the traditional sparkling wine of the
Languedoc. In 1989 in an attempt to modernise wine production
and produce more international wines, producers were asked
whether they wished to preserve the traditional makings of
Blanquette, based on Mauzac, or change to allow Chardonnay and
Chenin Blanc to infiltrate. The growers could not make up their
minds, so now both exist side by side; the traditional Blanquette
de Limoux must contain at least 90% of Mauzac in the blend.
Château Rives-Blanques is a 30-hectare estate, situated on a 350-
metre plateau close to the village of Cépie. It has been owned for
over a decade by Jan and Caryl Panman; with their longstanding
winemaker Eric Vialade they produce very fine sparkling Limoux
wines, both traditional and modern.
52 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
QUALITY FACTORS
Jean-Pierre Archard's Domaine Archard-Vincent 18-hectare estate
is farmed organically and has been since 1975. His vineyards are
hand-harvested and organically fertilized; he uses wild yeasts and
only the tiniest addition of copper and sulphur. The estate is
certified Ecocert and Nature & Progress.
Crémant de Bordeaux can be made from all the varieties allowed
for Bordeaux Rouge and Blanc. Crémant de Bordeaux can be made
throughout the Gironde département, making it the largest
sparkling wine appellation in France. Unfortunately only 185
hectares are planted and a mere 10,680 hectolitres are produced -
and this figure is declining.
Crémant de Limoux is the appellation created in 1990 for the
modern sparkling wines of Languedoc, predominantly made from
Chenin Blanc (which is unusual, given that this variety is not
well-suited to the heat of the Languedoc) and Chardonnay.
Mauzac and Pinot Noir play a minor role in the production.
VERY INTERESTINGAND SPECIALCrémant du Jura, created in 1995, can be either white or rosé
and is made from Poulsard Trousseau, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
and Savagnin; 17,000 hectolitres are produced every year.
Domaine de la Pinte is a 34-hectare estate that has practiced
organic cultivation since 1999. In 2009 they went that one step
further and started farming according to biodynamic principles.
Their Crémant is made from 80% Chardonnay and 20%
Savagnin grown on marnes bleues de Lias, a soil high in fossils
and iron. Whilst not as distinctive as the region's still wines,
IN 2009 DOMAINE DE LA PINTESTARTED FARMING ACCORDING TO
BIODYNAMIC PRINCIPLES
JAN AND CARYL PANMAN PRODUCE VERY FINE SPARKLING
LIMOUX WINES
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ALMOST UNKNOWN AND RAREFrom the same region (though not made by Château Rives-
Blanques) is Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale, 100% Mauzac, a
slightly sweet, low alcohol (7%), cloudy, effervescent rather than
fully sparkling wine. The wine is bottled early when fermentation
stalls in the winter. Though lightly filtered, the wine still contains
residual sugar and fine yeast particles which start to re-ferment
when temperatures rise. It is not disgorged, hence the cloudiness.
Appellation Bourgogne Mousseux was created in 1943 for the
sparkling red wines of Burgundy. It is made from Pinot Noir and
Gamay predominantly, but can contain up to 15% Chardonnay,
Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Caesar. It can be made in 400
communes from Chablis to Beaujolais with the resulting
differences in style, however only 600 hectares are planted.
Gaillac has perfect conditions for all vine growing so it is not
surprising that sparkling wine is part of their range, made from
Len de l'El (meaning corner of the eye), Mauzac, Ondenc and
Muscadelle. These wines can be made by Méthode Traditionelle,
as for Champagne, or Méthode Gaillacoise, which is the same as
Méthode Ancestrale. In addition, Gaillac produces Perle, a
pétillant wine, bottled before malolactic fermentation takes place,
giving a refreshing spritz to some fairly mediocre base wines.
Clairette de Die was granted AOC-status in 1942. It is made from
at least 75% Muscat à Petit Grains, the remainder being Clairette;
however, some of the best Clairettes are confusingly 100% Muscat.
Production is again similar to Méthode Ancestrale, locally called
Dioise. Pleasingly, there is plenty of Clairetted de Die made (some
90,000 hectolitres a year). The Cave de Jaillance cooperative
contributes to 80% of the total production, with the best
independent producer being Domaine Archard-Vincent.
NO SIGN OF THE BUBBLEBURSTING YET... Champagne sales are still remarkably buoyant. In 2010, 319
million bottles of Champagne were sold worldwide. We are no
longer at the dizzy heights of 2000 and yes, a dip occurred in
2008/2009, but since then, a strong recovery has been seen. It is
not just the new markets of Russia (up 88%), China (up 90%) and
Brazil (up 63%) that have helped exports; sales in the UK in 2010
were 16% up, and even the US, with its own developed sparkling
wine industry, was up 34% on the previous year. The five biggest
markets for non-Champagne French sparkling wine - namely the
US, Germany, UK, Belgium and Japan - have all seen significant
increases in demand.
The figures are irrefutable, the world is drinking more sparkling
wine. New markets are being developed in the Far East and South
America, with Crémant de Bourgogne a particularly successful
export. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are instantly recognisable in
foreign parts as the grapes of Burgundy and also Champagne.
The quality of the Crémants and vins mousseux across the board is
higher than ever, marketing is more sophisticated, feeding off the
unsatiable demand for Champagne which shows no signs of
diminishing. However, this demand should not be taken for
granted, as there are many other excellent sparkling wines
beginning to appear on the world stage - for example, those from
England, which are small in quantity, but tall in stature.
Richard Craig
CRÉMANT D’ALSACE A.C. Cave de Turckheim Brut MayerlingPale yellow. Nose of fairlyfresh white fruits with a touchof biscuit after swirling. Onthe palate, lively entry flowinginto a fleshier mid-palate. Thefragrances are focused and crunchy even on the finish.
85/100
CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE A.C. Moulin des Verny Cuvée ExcellencePale yellow with greenisht i n t s and wonde r f u leffervescence. Pleasantnose with delicate aromasof white flowers. On thepalate, savoury honesty, vinosity and focus. A nicelydry Crémant in a very drinkable style.
86/100
VOUVRAY A.C. Domaine du Clos de l'EpinayTête de cuvée 2007Light gold. Intense nose withaccents of wild flowers, driedfruits and cellar notes. Full,unctuous palate showingseductively refined bubblesand focused fruity and mineral fragrances that linger. Alively, full-bodied wine pairing well with grilled fish.
87/100
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54 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
WINE GROWER PORTRAITS
www.toutigeac.com
“For us here the emphasis is on producing fruity, early-drinking
wines each year,” she comments. Mostly red is produced, predominantly
from Merlot (with some Cabernet) and 10% of white wine
The day starts early for Oriane Mazeau, the young wine
producer at Château Toutigeac in Bordeaux’s Entre-
Deux-Mers. First job of the day is the instruction of the
team of six people regarding what needs to be done in the
vineyards and in the cellars. As with many middle- to large-sized
properties producing generic wine (appellation Bordeaux), there
is no luxury of having a vineyard manager (chef de culture) or a cellar
manager (maître de chai). Her semi-retired father Philippe helps
her run the estate. Much of the rest of the day is then dedicated to
the commercial side of the business. It was her father who took
the wise decision to stop selling in bulk in the 1970s and to bottle
at the property, selling direct to the customer. Bottling facilities at
the property give added flexibility and means that customers'
demands can be quickly fulfilled.
PROSPECTING: EXPORTING FURTHER AFIELD75% of the property’s production of 600,000 bottles is currently
exported to northern European countries such as Holland,
Belgium, Germany, Denmark, Switzerland and also to French
Polynesia. Prospecting export markets further afield into north
and south America and Asia is a daily preoccupation for Oriane.
“The most difficult challenge I face today is juggling the need to
travel and the all-important, face-to-face contact with the requirement
to be present, to ensure that the property is well-run.”
INCORPORATING A NEW GENERATIONHaving grown up en famille at Toutigeac, 30 kilometres south-east
of Bordeaux (her father’s two brothers have properties next
door), Oriane took the decision early on to follow the family
tradition and studied both viticulture and oenology. She chose
Spain’s Rioja region to complete her work experience, firstly for
the large producers Cune and after the smaller producers of Roda.
Oriane Mazeau: juggling the commercialand practical aspects of a 76-hectare estate
ORIANE MAZEAU AND HER YOUNGER BROTHER XAVIER
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 55
Oriane Mazeau: juggling the commercial and practical aspects of a 76-hectare estate
(Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle). “I came back from Rioja
with the desire to age our best wines in barrel. It was a challenge
convincing my father that the investment was worthwhile.
He agreed to letting me have three barrels and we started producing
a barrel-aged special reserve called “O”. Today we produce ten
times the amount and the wine sells well, particularly to restaurants.
It gives us a range, wines for every day and for the weekend!”
THE NEED TO MASTER DIVERSE SKILLSIn the current economic climate there are even new skills to be
mastered. “There is an ever-growing need to be able to speak the
financial language of the banks and business plans. Fortunately
this is where my younger brother Xavier excels,” says Oriane. He
is currently gaining work experience at an accountancy firm, but
she hopes he will join her in the running of the estate in the future.
AT THE GIRONDINE CHÂTEAU, ORIANE REPRESENTS THE FIFTH GENERATION OF HER FAMILY
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CONTINUITY OF WINE PRODUCTION AT THEANCIENT SITEIt was a group of monks from the nearby abbey of Sauve Majeure
that first planted vines at Toutigeac in the 12th century. As one
gazes out from the sitting room of the beautiful Girondine
château, over the rolling hills of vines, there is a feeling of
permanence and continuity. Adapting to changing market
trends over the years, Oriane represents the fifth generation of
her family to produce wine on the site. It is sure she will not
be the last.Nicolle Croft
ORIANE MAZEAUCHÂTEAU TOUTIGEAC
33760 Targon - Tel.+33 (0)5 56 23 90 10www.toutigeac.com
56 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
FAMILY BUSINESS
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Clément Fayat, best known as president of the multi-billion civil engineeringgroup BTP, bought his first vineyards in 1969, at the 23-hectare property of LaDominique in Saint-Emilion. The vines were bought initially as an investmentopportunity, but over the years M. Fayat has become sentimentally attached tothem, so that today his wine properties (including Château Clément-Pichon, HautMédoc and Château Fayat, Pomerol) are his main focus for development.
www.vignobles.fayat.com
His sons Jean-Claude (53 years) and Laurent (44 years)work with him; they are even more attached to thefamily vines, having been brought up with the properties
and their wines since childhood. Clément Fayat did not have such abackground. Born in the Corrèze in 1932, the eldest son of fivechildren, his father worked as a stone mason. It was basic Vin del’Hérault wine that accompanied his childhood, drawn from a
110-litre barrel in the cellar, consumed quickly and in quantity as aneveryday beverage by the older generation.
FIRST CONTACT WITH BORDEAUX WINEFayat’s links to the Bordeaux region go back a long way. In 1957 hesettled in Libourne and worked as a contractor in the constructionbusiness. It was not until during his national service in the Gironde at
Wine business decisions: from head to heart
Clément Fayat & his sons Jean-Claude and Laurent
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 57
the age of 20 that he first tasted “proper” wine. “In those days I hadnothing to compare the wine to, so it was difficult to be able to reallytell the difference. I sought advice on what to put in my cellar frommy fellow compatriot from the Corrèze, négociant Jean-PierreMoueix, in Libourne,” says M. Fayat. As his business developed he wasencouraged to invest in vineyards. Coming from the constructionindustry and being a self-professed “man of the earth”, a square footof land meant more to him than a square foot of vines - “on s’attacheà la terre” - so he resisted for a number of years until his purchase ofLa Dominique in 1969.
COUP DE COEUR FOR CLÉMENT-PICHON’S ARCHITECTUREDespite being an “homme de bâtiment”, M. Fayat had what theFrench call a “coup de coeur” for Château Clémént-Pichon, not for itsterroir but for its architecture. He had never before seen such qualityof construction using stone and wood. In 1976 he purchased theproperty in Parempuyre (Haut Médoc) but insisted on buying italong with its 25 hectares of land, knowing that its vines would givethe château life and durability. It became his permanent home.
FUTURE WINE TOURISM PLANSM. Fayat admits that with all of his other business interests, in the pasthis vineyards have not been his priority. Today that has changed, and79 year-old Fayat claims he has never been more motivated. Under
the direction of Yannick Evenou, his new right hand man for the pasttwo years, he has big plans for each of his properties, communicatingtheir true potential and value.
The most ambitious plans are for Château La Dominique, where amulti-million euro project is underway to build a new cellar and winetourism site designed by one of France’s premier architects, JeanNouvel (originally from the area, today he is world-renowned in hisfield). The design includes a 400-square-metre open terrace on thetop of the cellar with views of La Dominique’s illustrious neighbours,Saint-Emilion’s Figeac and Cheval Blanc, and Pomerol’s LaConseillante and l’Evangile.
Fayat is looking to expand the size of his current properties (particularlythe 23-hectare Clément-Pichon in the Haut Médoc). Here he is alsodeveloping a wine tourism site to make the most of its location closeto Bordeaux. He is also looking to invest in very high level property“at the right price,” finding current prices ridiculous. One of theFrance’s most successful business men is now turning his focus to hiswine properties, combining the forces of his head and his heart. Wehave not heard the last of Vignobles Clément Fayat.
Nicolle Croft
VIGNOBLES CLÉMENT FAYATChâteau La Dominique, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé
Château Clémént-Pichon, Haut MédocChâteau Fayat, Pomerol
www.vignobles.fayat.com33290 Parempuyre - Tel. + 33 (0)5 56 35 23 79
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Clément Fayat, Vignobles Fayat - Wine business decisions: from head to heart
FAYAT’S WINE PROPERTIES ARE HIS MAIN FOCUS FOR DEVELOPMENT
58 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
The boundaries of the Cognac region more or less match those
of the Charente and Charente-Maritime departments, along the
Atlantic coastline. The region is home to a broad range of
terroirs which give the Cognac controlled appellation a unique
variety that is reflected first in the wines then enhanced by
distillation, ageing and blending.
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THE FRAPIN CELLAR MASTER'S OFFICE ILLUSTRATES THE INCREDIBLEDIVERSITY OF COGNAC
The incredible diversity of Cognac
COGNAC A.C. Bernard Boutinet X.O. Coppery-orange with bronzehighlights. Profound nosemarrying dried fruits, spicesand fig. On the palate, a fairly fiery entry leading into afull, perfumed mid-palate. The finish offers up apleasant little bouquet of spices. A classic style.
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 59
There is therefore not one Cognac, but many, each with
its own idiosyncratic perfumes and flavours. Its
diversity is undoubtedly its most prized possession as
Cognac has always been driven by consumer demand across
the world, whilst at the same upholding its traditions. Cognac
is also making a noticeable come-back in the French market
where it is mixed with tonic or served with ice as an appetiser,
yet it still retains its inimitable taste.
ORIGINSAs a brief reminder, Cognac is a wine-based brandy made
primarily from the Ugni Blanc grape variety whose natural
acidity allows it to ferment without additives. Double
distillation in a Charente pot still subsequently concentrates
the inherent fragrances of the wine (the volatile substances)
which will ultimately give character to the main bouquet
components once blending is completed; this can be with
brandies of a different origin. The distillation process has
changed little since the 17th century. Despite this, quality has
constantly improved and more emphasis has been placed on
individual sites or terroirs.
COGNAC TO THE POWER OF SIXSince 1938, the Cognac wine region has been divided into six
growths. Through their soil type, sunshine and general climate,they impart a distinct perfume, taste and therefore an identityto each Cognac. • Grande Champagne, whose reputation is based on thequality of its brandies, is the “heart” of Cognac. Its 13,000hectares of vines grow on friable limestone soils whichautomatically control water levels, protecting the vine fromexcessive or insufficient water resources. The hillsides ofGrande Champagne are bathed in outstanding sunshine andalthough yields are often lower here than elsewhere, alcoholicstrength can be higher. White wines from Grande Champagneproduce extremely refined, quite floral brandies boastingexcellent ageability. • Brandies from Petite Champagne on the other hand are
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sourced from sites where the layer of limestone is shallower.Although their characteristics are similar to those of the firstgrowth, they have slightly less finesse. • The Borderies growth is definitely worth a mention, eventhough it covers just 4,000 hectares, making it the smallest ofthe six growths. It does however boast an unmistakable micro-climate. Its brandies show perfumes of violet; they are quiteround and can be enjoyed after a shorter ageing period. • Fins Bois and Bons Bois circle the three first growths andalone account for over half the area under vine. The limestonesubsoil is quite firm and the resultant brandies are supple andearly-maturing. The maritime influence is more noticeablein the Bons Bois where the brandies are harsher and drieron the palate.• A taste of the sea develops in the maritime areas along theAtlantic coastline and the Ile de Ré and Ile d’Oléron islands.The limestone is replaced by silex and the brandies can be
60 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
CHRISTIAN THOMAS (CHÂTEAU DE BEAULON) TASTING SOME AGED COGNAC
THE CHÂTEAU DE FONTPINOT SITS AMONGST 316 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS IN SEGONZAC
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Three awards that reward quality and guarantee satisfaction. Wines bearing the Gilbert & Gaillard label have been tastedand approved by our expert tasting committee. Award-winning wines - guaranteed to meet your highest expectations.
www.gi lbertgai l lard.com
The Gilbert & Gaillard Awards:only for the best
will provide consistency whilst also addressing criteria such asvolumes.
Rémy Martin’s focus is on the reputation of its Fine
Champagne blends. The house, with its distinctive centaur
branding, blends all of its Cognacs from at least 50% of
Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. Alongside the
branded Cognacs which account for over 80% of sales and are
mainly blends, individual growths are emerging. A significant
role is played by producers who distil their own Cognac and
address specific demand from consumers attached to a
product’s origins through sales to traditional outlets such as
the cellar door, restaurants and gourmet food stores. A case in
point is Drouet Cognac in Salle d’Angles which produces
remarkable Grande Champagne Cognacs, or Château de
Beaulon in Charente Maritime which boasts a unique range of
grape varieties (Colombard, Folle Blanche, Montils) for
producing Cognac. Similarly, some of the smaller négociants
(Delamain, A.E. Dor…) work along the same lines. The smaller
houses and estates which have little to gain from trying to
compete with the large firms by developing brands can thereby
tap into a potentially lucrative market of connoisseurs.
Gilbert & Gaillard
62 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
drunk young as they will not mature with additional oak
ageing. These are the Bois Ordinaires or the Bois terroir.
MASTERING COGNACIt would be easy to assume that the reputation of this most
famous of all brandies derived simply from an accident of
nature. Human input combines with the unique quality of the
local terroirs with the result that Cognac is widely held to be
the best brandy in the world. In actual fact, for the last three
hundred years Cognac has owed its famous destiny to the
pioneering Dutch and English traders and to the people who
have passed traditions on from one generation to the next,
improving techniques and enhancing ageing and the art of
blending.
As we have seen, no two Cognacs are the same and yet
consistency is of paramount importance for consumer loyalty.
The cellar master therefore blends brandies from different
growths and of different ages. Cognacs from the most
prominent houses - Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Frapin, Martell,
Courvoisier, Camus, Hine and many others - are made from
this “flavour alchemy”. In tasting the Cognacs, the cellar
master’s primary concern is to achieve a balanced blend that
DOUBLE DISTILLATION IN A CHARENTE POT STILL SUBSEQUENTLYCONCENTRATES THE INHERENT FRAGRANCES
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The incredible diversity of Cognac
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 63
Château de Beaulon
95/100 Château de Beaulon X.O. Collection 128.90 €Famille Estève
95/100 Très Vieille Petite Fine Champagne
Réserve de la Famille 65.00 €Cognac Otard
95/100 Cognac Extra 1795 275.46 €Cognac Frapin
95/100 Domaine Château de Fontpinot X.O. 83.00 €93/100 V.I.P. X.O. 149.00 €Cognac Otard
93/100 Cognac X.O. Gold 130.47 €Jean Fillioux
92/100 ”Très Vieux” Grande Champagne 80.00 €Cognac Rémy Martin
92/100 XO Excellence 121.00 €Cognac Frapin
92/100 Signature 79.00 €Cognac Hennessy
91/100 Hennessy X.O. 140.00 €Hardy Cognac
91/100 Hardy X.O. 70.00 €Cognac Rémy Martin
91/100 Coeur de Cognac 45.00 €
Domaine Drouet & fils
91/100 X.O. - Cuvée Ulysse 51.00 €Cognac Leyrat
90/100 Glory Extra 375.00 €90/100 ABK6 - X.O. Family Reserve 79.00 €Vignobles Bertrand Domaine Du Feynard
90/100 X.O. 45.00 €Bernard Boutinet
90/100 Cognac & Cigars 74.00 €90/100 X.O. 65.00 €Hardy Cognac
90/100 Hardy V.S.O.P 26.00 €Cognac Godet
89/100 Epicure - Folle Blanche 110.00 €Roussille
89/100 Roussille X.O. 35.00 €Cognac Courvoisier
89/100 V.S.O.P 38.00 €Domaine Drouet & fils
89/100 Fine Mélina 39.00 €Cave des Vigerons d'Oléron
88/100 X.O. 36.50 €Château de Plassac
88/100 Domaine de Plassac X.O. 50.00 €
Here are our scores for the Cognacs we tasted in 2011
The United States is the world’s fourth-largest wine producing country. Despite that,very little is known about its wines. In Asia, Napa Valley wines are famous yet peoplewould be hard pushed to locate them on a map or even know that California produceswines. In Europe, wine lovers have heard of the Judgement of Paris tasting yet they arenot familiar with Oregon or Santa Cruz. Gilbert & Gaillard have therefore decided to presenta detailed description of this extensive wine region, located mainly in California whichaccounts for 90% of the country’s wines. Vines are nevertheless grown in each of the50 states, including Alaska. Three states stand out as producers of highly representative,quality wines: Oregon, New York and Washington. May the journey commence!
64 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
REGION
Historically, wild vines,
more commonly known
as Vitis Labrusca, were
growing on North American soil well
before the first settlers arrived. Vitis
Labrusca was also the source of countless
hybrids with such charming names as
Isabella, Dutchess and Delaware. It
was not until the start of the 17th century
however that the Mission grape variety
was introduced into areas west of the
Rockies by missionaries from Mexico.
Only during the second half of the
19th century did Vitis Vinifera varieties
colonise the United States. The phylloxera
epidemic followed by Prohibition
between 1919 and 1933 brought the
North American wine industry to its
knees. It was only after the Second
World War and at the start of the
1960s that significant numbers of
wineries were opened. They were very
well-equipped and geared to the realities
of today’s wine trade. Interestingly,
almost 70% of wineries were set up in
California over the last thirty years.
LEGISLATION -THE APPELLATIONSYSTEMThe Federal TTB Bureau (Alcohol,
Tobacco, Tax and Trade Bureau) is
responsible for regulations related to
American wines that were introduced
in 1978. The Wine Institute draws up a
list of American Viticultural Areas,
commonly called A.V.A.s, for each
state. There are currently 198 A.V.A.s.
They are what might be called appellations
of origin, but American style. They are
in fact more along the lines of the
Italian Indicazione Geografica Tipica
because there are no compulsory grape
varieties, yields or vine management
techniques.
THE WINES ARE DIVIDED INTO FOUR
MAIN CATEGORIES.
1- American wine: these are a blend of
wines that can come from all over the
The United States: a leading global wine producer
Born on a winegrowing estate in Provence,Emmanuel learned how to walk by holdingon to grapevines. He holds an advanced vocational diploma in viticulture and oenology from Mâcon-Davayé (France) and is also an architect and engineer ofbridges and roadways. He recently moved to the United States to set up the NorthAmerican office of Gilbert & Gaillard.
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WASHINGTON STATETHE MOST NORTHERLY AMERICAN WINE REGION,
HOME OF GREAT MERLOT
The United States: a leading global wine producer
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 65
THE STATES OF
CALIFORNIA, OREGON,
WASHINGTON AND NEW YORK TAKE A LEAD ROLE IN DISSEMINATING
AMERICAN WINES INTERNATIONALLY
CALIFORNIAAMERICA'S MOST FAMOUS
WINE-PRODUCING STATE
OREGON HOME OF
PINOT NOIR,ALSO
PRODUCINGEXCELLENT
SAUVIGNON,PINOT GRIS
AND RIESLING
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NEW YORK GROWS MANY HYBRIDS BUT IS ALSO HOME TO NOBLE VINE VARIETIES INCLUDING CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CHARDONNAY AND SAUVIGNON
66 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
REGION
Words you may see on labelsVintage: this is not a compulsory statement. However if it is mentioned, at least85% of the wine has to come from the year stated or 95% in the case of an A.V.A.Producer: “Produced and bottled by” or “Made and bottled by” guarantees thatthe wine grower responsible for bottling has fermented at least 75% of the wine.This is the best guarantee of origin. “Cellared and bottled by” and “Bottled by” are much more vague.Organic: various statements may feature on the label. They are clearly stated andchecks on site are stringent. Statements include 100% organic (rare), organic winemade with organic ingredients, made with organic and non-organic ingredients. Fumé blanc: the typically Californian name for Sauvignon Blanc.Meritage: a typically Californian statement referring to blended Bordeaux-stylewines. It gives the wine maker a degree of scope. Reds can be blended fromCabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Whites areblended from Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle. No blend must contain morethan 75% of one varietal. Reserve: a statement of quality referring to particular attention to detail such asyield restrictions or oak ageing. However, its use is extremely varied and it in noway guarantees quality. Estate bottled: the wine is bottled at the estate. The statement can only be used for A.V.A.-designated wines. Any other statement is worthless (Estate, Estates,Estate-grown).Blush: a white or rosé wine made from red grape varieties. It produces a fairlymixed result. The wines to avoid are the “semi generics”. Although these havefallen into misuse, some unscrupulous producers still use names that refer torenowned European appellations such as Chablis, Champagne, Burgundy, Sherry, Port, Malaga, Rhine etc. Fortunately, the large wine companies are notparty to this misleading practice. In fact, stringent checks are conducted onexports by both the producers and the country of import.
ZINFANDEL, A NOBLE GRAPE
Americans consider Zinfandel as an authentic US grape variety, and theyare very proud of it. Known in Italy as Primitivo and also cultivated inCroatia, Mexico and Australia, it is in California that it reached its greatestsuccess. Gilbert & Gaillard asked a winemaker who excels with Zinfandelto tell us more about itsspecificities. Alex Sotelo, bornin Mexico, arrived in Napawhen he was 18, and createdhis own winery 15 years later.We met him at the SummitWine and Food Festival, in theNew York Metro area.
How did you come to winemaking?It was a question of survival. Iarrived from Mexico at 18 tofind a job. I took the first job Ifound. That was in a vineyardin Napa. It could have been ina fast food restaurant! While Iwas working in the vineyard Isaw so many people travellingto Napa and I wondered why.To understand, I started to taste the Merlot grapes and discovered howsophisticated they were. And then I tasted the wine and recognized thelink between the berry and the wine. I was fascinated. I came to winethrough the berry.
You are producing different wines. How did you come to Zinfandel?In 2001, the Elaine Mackey Charitable Trust asked me to make a winefrom Zinfandel for them. I accepted but I was out of my comfort zone. Idid not understand Zinfandel. I did not like Zinfandel. I expected winesthat would be either elegant but not very powerful, such as Benessere, orunapproachable before seven years, like the Folie à Deux. I met a lot ofwinemakers and tasted a lot of Zinfandels, and finally I understood thatmost winemakers move the wine too much and do not leave it longenough in oak barrels.
What is so special about Zinfandel? What makes it difficult towork with?The first thing is that the flowering is spread over a whole month,compared to 7-12 days for other grape varieties. As a consequence, the
cluster presents importantheterogeneity in maturity atthe time of the harvest. I waitfor the very last berry to beripe in order to get softtannins, which is sometimeschallenging due to theweather. That’s whyZinfandel needs to beplanted on warm anddrained hillside locations.Because of this high maturity,the level of sugar is very high.
The second thing is that thecluster is very dense, thereforevery sensitive to rot. That iswhy I cut down up to 50% ofthe harvest at various stagesof the development,depending on the yield andthe year. To keep the yield
Alex Sotelo
Zinfandel needs to be planted on warmand drained hillside locations
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United States, including Puerto Rico and the District of Columbia.
2- A multi-state appellation for a group of neighbouring states:
this can only be used for blends of wine from two or three states.
3- A state appellation: the wine comes from a single state provided
at least 75% of the grapes are from that particular state. The best-
known states are California, Oregon, Washington and New York.
Oregon is the only state to apply the 100% rule.
4- A county appellation: the wines must be made from at least 75%
of grapes from just one county, with the exception of Oregon, where
100% is again the rule. Each state may have one or several wine making
counties which are then divided geographically into A.V.A.s. For
instance, Arizona and Tennessee have just one A.V.A. whilst
Pennsylvania has four, Texas seven and California over 80.
LABELLING As a rule, American wines, especially Californian wines, sportthe grape variety on the label. However, because of the appellationrules, the proportion of the grape specified on the label israrely 100%. 75% is usually the rule. In the case of an A.V.A.,the minimum percentage rises to 85%. If the name of a smallwinery is mentioned, the minimum increases to 95%. In 2010, the USadministration launched a procedure designed to tighten up on thenames used on labels and ensure they are used appropriately. Theprocedure has so far been unsuccessful.
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 67
The United States: a leading global wine producer
GRAPE VARIETIES
MAIN RED VARIETIES
ZINFANDELAccording to archaeological research, the origins of this
variety are in Croatia (probably under the name Plavac Mali).
It reportedly then spread over Europe, particularly in Italy
under the name Primitivo. Imported into California by the
Austrians, it thrived on Californian soils, so much so that it
was prized for its high yields and alcoholic strength. It was
also prized for its versatility and was vinified as white, rosé,
basic red and even sparkling wine. It currently accounts for
10% of California’s overall output and is considered by many
as the American variety after a sea change in wine making
practices over the last decade. Increasing numbers of wine
producers grow old vines on sites that can yield surprising
results, filling the glass with extremely juicy, fruit-laden wines
with wild berry flavours including blackberry. When acidity is
well-balanced and the tannins are ripe, the wines deliver spice
notes and wonderful complexity on the palate as they age.
CABERNET SAUVIGNONPart of the international popularity of Cabernet Sauvignon
with its tell-tale aromatics is due to the United States. The
Judgement of Paris, a blind tasting organised by Stephen
Spurrier, propelled Stag’s Leap, Ridge and Heitz to prominence
after a sparring match with Bordeaux growths. The tasting
heralded the United States’ entry into the realms of the great
Cabernet Sauvignon producer countries. The variety produces
deeply-coloured wines. Its aromas are fairly marked by blackcurrant
though also menthol, chocolate, eucalyptus and tobacco
notes. Superior quality Cabernet Sauvignon shows stuffing,
tightly-wound tannins and wonderful balance but the most
stylish ones often come with a hefty price tag. It is very often
blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc and labelled “meritage”.
MERLOTInitially vinified individually, it is now more often than not
incorporated into blends. The State of Washington’s reputation is
based on Merlot. When it is properly vinted, this grape variety
is understandably popular with lovers of fruity, fleshy wines
and boasts a deep colour, roundness and silky tannins.
PINOT NOIRRunning the gamut from the lightest to the most robust and
the most elegant to the most massive, the entire range of Pinot
Noir wines is increasingly popular, mainly since the acclaimed
film Sideways in 2005. Sales climbed by 15% in just three
down, I also use Saint Georges rootstock that controls the vineproductivity.
Once in the tank, is the juice easier to work with?Not really! The first problem is to avoid too much residual sugars. As westart with very rich juices, I use “super yeast” at the end of fermentationto make sure it will not stop on its way. I like the Zinfandel when it is dry.
Then I want the alcohol not to show too much. When you taste my wines,they are 15º ABV but it does not show, they are creamy and balanced. Toget that result, I work with open wooden tanks during the fermentationin order to volatilise alcohol. It is also easier to punch down the cap.
I also develop the fruit flavours of the wine, by fermenting part of thegrapes in a carbonic fermentation. This means that part of the clusters arepoured and not crushed nor de-stemmed. The grape remains intact andthe fermentation takes place inside the grape.
Then, during the longageing process in barrels, Ikeep the humidity as highas possible in order tokeep the water in the wineand as much alcohol aspossible in the angel’sshare.
You said that you seewinemaking as a lifeimitating art. What do youthink is the share ofnature and the share ofhuman in wine making?Men put natural elementsin line for nature to do the work. Mother Nature is set to produce fruits,but the elements are not set properly. We are coming with moreknowledge. It’s 90% nature, 10% human. We forget too easily that wedepend on nature. We look at numbers, but sometimes they are notattainable. We have to keep our feet on the ground and a goodunderstanding of nature. In 2010 I had no Zinfandel. The winter was toocold and we had rain in September. I dropped the whole harvest on theground.
Any projects in the future?Sales are doing well. I sell 80% of my production through my mailing listand 20% to brokers. I am also a consultant in Mexico. The wine industrythere is still in its infancy. The potential is huge. The main production isin Baja California but it gives salty wines. There is potential in thehighlands of Zacatecas at 7000 feet altitude. It is among the highestvineyards in the world!
SOTELO www.alexsotelocellars.com
P.O. Box 3005 Yountville, CA 94558 Voice / Fax +1 707 224 5920 [email protected]
As the US is now the largestwine market in the world, thenumber and the diversity ofwine festivals in the country isgrowing. Summit Food and
Wine Festival is one of them, created in 2009by Ivan Ruiz in the New York City Metroarea. It brings together leading chefsand winemakers from around the countryto “ce lebra te and advance publicknowledge of and appreciation for greatwine and food”.
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months. Pinot Noir is a difficult variety to vinify. It sports a
lightly-coloured hue, shows cherry aromatics, a fruity mouthfeel,
good acidity and a measure of elegance, especially when oak
is not too prominent. This varietal wine has become a speciality
of Oregon.
SYRAH OR SHIRAZFor a relatively affordable price, this varietal wine offers many
likeable aspects: a deep, often purple-bluish colour in its
youth, aromas of spices, a wonderful tannic structure and
bundles of fruit. On top of this comes California’s own touch
of concentration, which can be full-on. Barbera, Grenache and
Carignane (the same Carignan as in Languedoc) cover extensive
areas in California but tend not to be exported as much as
other varietals.
Cabernet Franc, Mourvèdre (known as Mataro in California),
Petite Syrah (Syrah or Duriff depending on the vineyard) and
Sangiovese (Sangioveto) are also grown.
MAIN WHITE VARIETIES
CHARDONNAYThis great Burgundy grape has become the most popular and
most extensively grown variety in California. With its occasionally
exuberant aromas of tropical fruits and its buttery, toasted
nuances - depending on how long the wine has spent in oak -
it appeals to lovers of fairly opulent white wines.
Unfortunately, there can still be a tendency to over-oak and
some wines are occasionally heavy and excessively marked by
oak. In the aftermath of the global trend towards taste stan-
dardisation, in which origin and terroir play second fiddle to
technology and trivialisation, the best wineries are learning to
be more selective with oak. The less concentrated wines do
not automatically spend time in oak or at least, spend less
time in oak, in order to reveal more distinctive aromas, fruit,
finesse and elegance.
SAUVIGNONThis varietal has experienced similar problems. Renowned in
Sancerre for its fruity aromas, its exuberance and delicate features,
it is often called Fumé Blanc in California. It is fairly generous
but this does not necessarily warrant use of oak, especially
when the barrels are heavily toasted. Patience is a virtue
though and things are gradually changing for the better.
French Colombard (which ranks second after Chardonnay),
Chenin Blanc and Muscat of Alexandria cover extensive
acreage in America but the approach here is very much quantity
over quality. White Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sémillon,
Muscat Petit Grain, Symphony (apparently a cross between
Grenache and Muscat of Alexandria) are also grown, as is one
of the most promising varieties, Viognier.
THE MAJOR PRODUCING REGIONS
WINES FROM THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA• NAPA (17,400 ha – 400 wine estates)Without doubt California’s most well-known wine region,
Napa Valley is located north of San Francisco. From Calistoga
to Napa, vines bask in an ideal climate, hotter in the north
and cooler in the south, around Carneros, just above the
famous bay.
The main A.V.A.s are Atlas Peak (this is where Antinori, the
great Tuscan marquis is based; his savoury wine is faintly
reminiscent of Chianti; Atlas Peak Vineyard), Howell
Mountain (high altitude and volcanic soils; Dunn, Beringer,
Turley, La Jota, Duckhorn), Los Carneros (Acacia, Beaulieu,
Carneros Creek, Saintsbury, Sterling, Cuvaison, Domaine
Carneros belonging to Champagne house Taittinger), Napa
Valley (Cuvaison, Clos Pegase, Sterling and Château
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THE CARNEROS REGION IN NAPAVALLEY PRODUCES SOME OF THECOUNTRY’S BEST QUALITY WINES
Montelena around Calistoga, as well as Diamond Creek on
the slopes of Diamond Mountain. Rosenblum produces an
excellent Zinfandel), Oakville and Rutherford (Robert
Mondavi, Paradigm, Martha's Vineyard, Beaulieu, Opus One,
Vichon, Niebaum-Coppola, Caymus, Harlan Estate, Joseph
Phelps, Grgich Hills, Far Niente, St. Supéry, Rutherford Hill),
St. Helena (Beringer, Whitehall Lane, Charles Krug, Heitz,
Joseph Phelps, Duckhorn, Merryvale, Christian Brothers,
Freemark Abbey, Spottswoode, Stony Hill), Stag’s Leap District
(Clos du Val, Stag's Leap Vineyard, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars,
Pine Ridge) and Yountville (Domaine Chandon, Dominus
Estate).
• SONOMA (24,300 ha - 254 wine estates)Located between the Pacific Ocean and Napa Valley, Sonoma
runs parallel with Napa. It covers virtually the same acreage
yet has far fewer wineries. The wines enjoy outstanding weather
promoting a long growing season that lends itself to good
aromatic extraction, finesse and distinction. Famous wineries
make superlative Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and, increasingly, savoury Zinfandel and refined Pinot Noir.
The main A.V.A.s are Alexander Valley (rich, deep soils perfectly
suited to white Chardonnay wines: they are robust, powerful
and show abundant ultra ripe fruit aromas and spices. The
terraced vineyards are well-suited to growing Cabernet
Sauvignon and produce concentrated wines with cooked red
fruit aromas; Clos du Bois, Geyser Peak, Simi, Château
Souverain, Lyeth, Silver Oak), Chalk Hill (Chalk Hill, Rodney
Strong), Dry Creek Valley (Dry Creek, Preston, Ferrari-Carano,
Ridge), Los Carneros (Buena Vista, Gloria Ferrer), North
Coast, Northern Sonoma, Russian River Valley (Sonoma-
Cutrer, De Loach, Foppiano, J. Rochioli, Mark West, Joseph
Swann), Sonoma County (Arrowood, St. Francis, Ravenswood,
Geyser Peak, Château St. Jean, Hanzell, Piper-Sonoma,
Rodney Strong, Rosenblum), Sonoma County Green Valley
(Marimar Torres, Iron Horse), Sonoma Mountain (Laurel
Glen, Kistler), Sonoma Valley (Kenwood, Sebastiani, Château
St-Jean, St. Francis, Matanzas Creek, Glen Ellen).
• MENDOCINO COUNTY (6,100 ha - 70 wine estates) Mendocino is the most northerly of California’s wine regions
and a wonderful place to visit. It is subject to significant
variations in climate which have an influence on the personality
of the wines. Producers who came to Mendocino were vindicated
in their choice of region: from the elegant Zinfandel and Syrah
wines located primarily in the heart of the county to the Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay grown nearer the ocean for traditional
method sparkling wines, quality is generally present across the
board. This explains why the leading Champagne houses realised
the county had potential.
The main A.V.A.s are Anderson Valley (Roederer Estate,
Scharffenberger, Navarro, Handley, Greenwood Ridge, Lazy
Creek), Mendocino - Mendocino Ridge (Fetzer, Parducci,
Dunnewood, Weibel, Hidden Cellars, Lolonis, Jepson,
McDowell) and North Coast.
• SAN FRANCISCO BAY REGION (640,000 ha - around 100 wine estates) It would be a shame to visit the Californian vineyard without
taking the time to visit San Francisco and see its magnificent
views. Its captivating bay, bustling market, delightful restaurants,
roller coaster streets and likeable, relaxed people are all sights
definitely worth seeing. From here, it is easy to travel to the
charming wineries of Santa Cruz Mountain, via Saratoga and
Los Gatos. Despite the reputation of the Silicon Valley around
San Jose, Santa Clara county continues to produce superlative
wines mirroring its sumptuous terroirs.
The main A.V.A.s are Livermore Valley (Wente, Concannon,
Murrieta's Well), Contra Costa County (Cline, Rosenblum,
Turley, Ridge), Santa Clara Valley (Ridge, Mirassou, Mount
Eden), Santa Cruz Mountain (Bonny Doon Vineyard, Ridge,
Mount Eden, Clos LaChance).
The United States: a leading global wine producer
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 69
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OREGON HAS BEEN PRODUCINGWINE SINCE THE MID-1960S
NEW YORK STATE: WHERE VINES ANDLAKES LIVE IN PERFECT HARMONY
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• MONTEREY BAY and San Benito (16,000 ha - 75 wine estates)
The extensive region of Monterey, south of the bay of the same
name, offers very suitable conditions for wine growing. The
strong maritime influence on its climate makes it cooler and
harvesting begins two weeks after the other regions.
Chardonnay in particular thrives here and currently covers
around half the total vineyard acreage.
WINES FROM THE STATE OF OREGONSituated between California and Washington, this state has
been producing wine since the mid-1960s. Pinot Noir definitely
holds centre stage here and covers almost half of Oregon’s
2,500 hectares under vine. Next comes Chardonnay, then
Riesling and Pinot Gris. Other varieties such as Cabernet,
Sauvignon and Muscat are grown though to a lesser extent;
they are therefore virtually impossible to find abroad. Several
official wine areas have been created, including:
• Willamette Valley
This is the state’s most prominent A.V.A. Patches of volcanic
soils, an extremely temperate climate with a fairly cool late
autumn and high plantation density combine to promote relatively
low yields. The resultant red wines display a beautiful clean
colour, cherry aromas and oodles of fruit on the palate, framed by
supple tannins. Acidity and structure impart great ageability.
Names to look out for: The Eyrie, Domaine Drouhin Oregon
(Robert Drouhin of Beaune set up a winery in the Red Hills
and successfully produced his first vintage in 1988. His
daughter Véronique is currently at the helm), Adelsheim, Rex
Hill, Ponzi, Oak Knoll, Amity, Bethel Heights, Tualatin, Erath
Vineyards, Argyle and Laurel Ridge.
WINES FROM THE STATE OF WASHINGTONThis region is currently the second-largest wine producer in
the United States. However in the middle of the 20th century,
nobody would have believed grapes would ripen on land
situated north of Oregon, bordering on Canada. After a few
trials with Cinsault, the first vineyards of any significance
were established in the 1950s. They revealed that Riesling and
Chardonnay flourished in these latitudes. Cabernet and Syrah
were subsequently introduced. As a rule, the wines show
intense fruit aromas, refreshing acidity and deep colour. The
most extensive appellation covering most of the region is the
Columbia Valley A.V.A.
Names to look out for: Andrew Hill, Badger Mountain, Buty,
Betz, Cayuse, Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Winery, Covey
Run, Double Back, Gordon Brothers, Kiona, Leonetti Cellar
and Woodward Canyon.
WINES FROM THE STATE OF NEW YORKAlthough this State is better known for its megacity than for
its vineyards, it is nevertheless the third-largest wine producer
in the United States. The Concord grape variety is still quite
prolific but most of it is turned into grape juice. Some wineries
grow hybrids (Aurore, Seyval, Cayuga etc) and Vitis Vinifera
varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and
Sauvignon), which can produce some unexpected results. The
Finger Lakes region produces some very popular Riesling and
Gewurztraminer whilst Long Island grows Merlot, Cabernet
Franc and Chardonnay on its sandy soils. Being so close to
New York City facilitates the route to market. Some good
wineries worth a visit:
Hudson Valley (Benmarl, Millbrook, Clinton, Rivendell);
Finger Lakes (Wagner, Knapp, Hermann J. Wiemer, Glenora,
Shaleston); Long Island (Palmer, Pindar, Bedell, Hargrave,
Channing Daughters).
Any wine lover who is keen to discover the extensive range of
American wines must expect to have to travel several thousand
kilometres. For those who want to know everything there is to
know about American wines, the Travel column in each issue
of Gilbert & Gaillard takes you not only to the most prominent
wine regions but also to the lesser-known ones such as
Indiana, Colorado and Oklahoma. Back soon! �
NEW YORK LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 71
Ask any observer of New York's culinary scene over the pasttwo decades for a list of the city’s most influential duos andthey are bound to name Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich.
www.eatalyny.com
Eataly - Italy Eats New York
Batali is known for ambles in NY and
appearances on television in his chef’s
whites, baggy shorts and orange clogs; he is
supposedly the food guy. Reared in his
mother Lidia’s restaurant (Lidia is a famous
chef and television personality too), with a
stint on Wall Street, Joe represents the front
of house, sporting a casually-worn, tailored
suit. Together, Mario and Joe own or operate
some of New York’s most noteworthy
Italian restaurants: Babbo, Lupa, Otto, Del
Posto and Esca, plus the Spanish-themed
Casa Mono and Bar Jamon. In Los Angeles
and Singapore, they are behind Osteria
Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza, and in Las
Vegas they run Ristorante B&B, and
Carnevino. Oh yes, and then there’s the La
Mozza winery they own with Joe’s mother
in Maremma, Tuscany.
Yet despite this activity one might argue
their most impressive enterprise to date has
been Eataly, New York. Opened in August
2010 and occupying over 5000 square
meters (57,000 square feet) of the
magnificent Toy Building in Manhattan’s
Flatiron district, Eataly is an homage to
the heritage of Italian gastronomy, featuring
products from Italian producers large
and small, as well as produce made
locally in New York. In addition to
superlative groceries, meats, cheeses,
pasta, vegetables, oils, spices, sweets and
the like, guests can be fortified by a
dozen eating and drinking venues
overseen by the dynamic Batali and
Bastianich; skim cookbooks in Italian
and English; fantasise about the latest
Italian cookware; or even pick up a
bottle of Barolo next door (NY state law
currently forbids grocery stores to sell
wine or spirits).
Jamal Rayyis
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DRINK BETTER, LIVE BETTER
Eataly NY 200 Fifth Avenue at 23rd StreetNew York, NY 10010Tel. +1 212 229 2560Hours: 10am to 11pm (individual components may have separate hours)www.eatalyny.com
72 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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While the Batali/Bastianich connection is
key to the workings of Eataly in New York,
the concept was conceived by Oscar Farinetti
a few years earlier in Turin. Highly successful
in the retailing of consumer electronics in
Italy, Farinetti became enamoured with
local, artisan-produced foods and the whole
Slow Food movement that emerged from
Italy during the past two decades.
Recognizing that supermarket convenience
might be the undoing of artisan products
that required time and skill passed down
through generations, he decided to create a
temple of sorts to the celebration of Italian
cuisine. Small producers of cheese, salame,
pasta, bread, oils, condiments and so on
who could not compete with large food
companies were given a platform that not
only allowed them to sell their products, but
also have them honoured. Slow Food has
been a partner from the beginning. Eataly’s
philosophy is simple: Eat Better, Live Better.
The Turin location opened in 2007. Since
then, seven others have opened in the north
of Italy, and six in Japan. One is scheduled to
open in Rome in the next few months. The
New York location is the first in the United
States; others are being explored. Wherever
the location, the philosophy remains the
same: to provide excellent, unique products
that represent the best from Italy as well as
the best available locally.
While a buyer from Turin keeps the New
York story connected to small producers in
Italy, relationships are cultivated with small
producers in the US, especially New York
State. Fresh dairy comes from New York.
Bread is baked using local, stone-ground
flour from upstate New York, but is leavened
using a century old “mother” starter from
Italy. Local New York mozzarella makers,
trained in Apulia, produce home-made
cheese using curds from New Jersey. Fresh
pasta is made using NY State eggs, local
water and Canadian semolina. Eataly has a
tremendous selection of Italian cheeses, but
it also features a number of American
farmhouse cheeses. Due to US agriculture
restrictions, Eataly cannot import meat from
Italy, but it features meat from Piemontese
breed cattle raised in Montana. Its fish counter
is sublime.
Eataly NY has been a tremendous success
since its opening. Over six million visited in
its first year, and anyone strolling through its
dizzyingly busy floor will find legions of
tourists from around the world, including a
surprising number of Italians, homesick
perhaps, or maybe just in search of a ristretto
italiano. Casual dining counters where guests
can order specialties ranging from prepared
seasonal vegetables, to raw seafood, to
sandwiches, pizzas and pastas, and roast
meat sandwiches, and a glass of wine, are
another draw. Manzo, which specializes in
Italian meat dishes, is Eataly’s only full-service
restaurant. Opened this past summer,
Birreria is a rooftop beer garden and restaurant
that specialises in the birra-friendly cuisines
of Italy’s Austro-Germanic-tinged north.
With a view of the Empire State Building,
reservations are essential. Eataly ’s grocer ies
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Casual d in ing counters
Eataly NY has been a t remendous success s ince i ts opening
TRAVEL
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 73
Since 1990 the number of wineries in Colorado has increased 25-fold. In winecontests, the wines have not only won numerous medals but have even beatenwell-known Californian wines. Viticultural conditions around the Rocky Mountainsare exceptionally challenging - the growing season in these high, sunny and dryvineyards is short and extreme and frost can strike three times a year.
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Colorado
Another summer’s day with temperatures above
30°C. The evening is still very warm in downtown
Grand Junction, a sizeable provincial city in the
far west of Colorado. Like every Thursday, there is a farmers’
market on Main Street, several groups are playing, and we
dine at Il Bistro Italiano’s street terrace.
continued on page 74
74 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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ALONG GRAND VALLEY’S WINE ROUTE
300 days a year, and it is precisely here, between the Rocky
Mountains and the border with Utah, that two-thirds of
Colorado’s vines grow.
SHADE IS BETTER THAN SUNExcessive sugar levels, and thus wines that are too high in alcohol,
are another danger. Colorado’s vineyards are high in altitude,
from 1,400m above sea level, and the sun shines brightly.
During the relatively short growing season - between the cold
periods – this weather is highly conducive to fruit ripening. But
any grower who waits too long before harvesting will find himself
with wines that are too alcoholic. ABV levels of 14.5% or even
over 15% are common in Colorado. Picking too early is not
preferable either, especially for the red varieties as the aromas
will not have developed properly. Consequently, harvesting in
Colorado is like walking on a tightrope. Apart from finding the
ideal moment for harvesting, another way of limiting sugar levels
is through canopy management. In many wine areas it is used
to remove leaves so that the sun shines directly on the grapes,
but in Colorado the procedure is reversed - winegrowers who
At our table is state viticulturist Horst Kaspari. A German native
who studied in his home country, he then worked in New
Zealand until 2000. When asked what the biggest problems are
in his field for Colorado’s wine industry, he states categorically
that there are three: cold damage, cold damage and cold damage.
The vines in this state can be struck by severe frost damage three
times a year. Horst calls them early autumn frost (daytime
temperatures 13-14°, then suddenly dropping to minus 10-12°),
midwinter frost and spring frost (also fatal below freezing
point). Autumn frost is the most common, sometimes for five
consecutive years, but spring frost regularly causes damage too.
The only mechanical remedy to date are windmills in which
several bigger wine estates have invested. Water sprayers, like in
Chablis, are not an option because at critical moments irrigation
water is rarely available and drinking water would be too expensive.
Heaters would be impractical. The only method that is at least
effective against spring frost is delaying the growing cycle as
much as possible because the later the vine’s budburst, the
lower the risk. By adapting irrigation and pruning, the start of
the growing cycle can be delayed by two weeks. Syrah, as Horst
says, is a naturally late varietal. The viticulturist and his team
are conducting research in cold rooms into more resistant varieties.
An additional risk to vines is desiccation. In Grand Valley, the
large, sheltered valley of Grand Junction, the sun shines over
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VITICULTURIST HORST KASPARI
Fighting the cold in Colorado
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 75
CANYON WIND’S NORM CHRISTIANSEN
want to make well-balanced wines that are not too heavy try as
much as possible to keep the bunches in the shade of the leaves.
Which varieties have the best potential? ”First of all, Merlot,”
says Horst Kaspari. ”It’s just as well as it is the most planted
variety. But it is best not to treat Merlot as a workhorse, like they
do with Müller-Thurgau in Germany. Merlot has to be treated
like a noble variety, only then will you get fine wines.
Otherwise, I see good potential in Rhône varieties like Syrah,
Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.”
SIMILARITIES WITH MENDOZACanyon Wind is at the eastern gateway to Grand Valley, just out-
side the quiet wine village of Palisade. The estate was established in
1996 by the geologist Norm Christiansen. This successful medium-
sized winery conducted extensive research to find the best location
for its vineyards. The reason why it is founded here is because
of the deep rocky soil (like in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and also
the frequent winds from the canyon which minimise the risk of
spring frost and in summer bring some cool air. Because of this
combination, Norm calls his vineyard an ideal site. The tall,
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John Wayne look-alike winegrower shrewdly brought in the
world famous viticulture expert Richard Smart too. He put data
from Canyon Wind onto his computer and quickly discovered
the similarities with Washington State as well as Mendoza. The
resemblance with the Argentinean wine area will result in plantings
of Malbec. Amongst the current range of “really good, food-friendly
wines” are flagships such as the particularly fruity Pinot Grigio,
the blended 47-Ten and a well-balanced Petit Verdot.
MANY NEW WINERIESMany American states already had a flourishing wine industry
before Prohibition. At the time, Italian miners were making a
little wine for private consumption in Colorado. The first true
winery - Colorado Cellars in Palisade, which still exists today -
was established over 30 years ago, in 1978. With a production
of 15,000 to 25,000 cases a year, the winery is built partially
into the mountain and has grown to be the largest in Colorado.
Overall output covers more than twenty different wines and
several brands. One of their most attractive wines is the barrel-
aged Cabernet-Sauvignon Reserve, made from the second most
widely-grown variety in Colorado. Colorado Cellars, founded
by a still very active Rick Turley, encouraged little emulation to
begin with. Twelve years later Colorado still only had five wine
producers. This was enough though for the state to found the
Colorado Wine Industry Development Board, chaired by a
dynamic Doug Caskey. He sped up the process and consequently
there are 96 registered wineries today with 1,100 acres under
vine. The story does not end here though because in many
places vineyards have just been planted.
EAST OF THE MOUNTAINSYou don’t have to be a mathematician to understand that most
of the wineries are small. The second largest winery is the Two
Rivers Winery, between Grand Junction and the imposing
Colorado Monument, a National Park with 11 canyons and a
tower-like rock formation reminiscent of Monument Valley. The
two stylish tasting rooms at Two Rivers can welcome 60 people
and the adjacent château-like main building houses luxury bed
and breakfast accommodation. Despite their relatively large
output, the wines are of good quality. At the top-end is their Syrah,
followed by the Cabernet-Sauvignon, the Merlot and the
Vintner’s Blend. At the eastern side of the Rockies too, wineries
flourish and total approximately 40. Most of them buy their
grapes in the west but make the wine in their own cellars. In the
centre of Boulder near Pearl Street Mall is the tasting room
belonging to Bookcliff Vineyards - with over 2,000 cases - in the
WINE MAKER BILL DONAHUE AND HIS WIFE ANITA IN THE BISTROT OF CREEKSIDE CELLARS, ONE OF THE BEST SMALL WINERIES
Fighting the cold in Colorado
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 77
same facilities as a chocolate producer. One of the most remark-
able wines is the Cabernet Franc: a rich, alcoholic, full-bodied
wine showing a mix of berries and black fruit, spice and toast-
ed notes, even chocolate. Cabernet Franc plantings cover only 7 %
currently, but the variety is now considered a specialty. This
viewpoint is shared by Jenne Baldwin-Eaton, the talented
female wine-maker of Plum Creek in Palisade. In her delightful
tasting room we tasted perhaps Colorado’s best Riesling, fruity,
refreshing and - unlike most Colorado Rieslings - very dry.
AMATEUR TURNED PROFESSIONALAn exquisite Cabernet Franc is served at Creekside Cellars as
well. Annual production of 3,000 cases is sold at the cellar
door, in the tasting room and their bistrot located next to a
small brook. The locality is Evergreen, a small tourist village in
a valley behind Denver. Owner Bill Donahue (“people come
here for wine, food and meeting friends”) learned wine drinking as
a student whilst savouring spaghetti on Sundays with his future
mother-in-law who originated from Italy. He was an amateur
winemaker for 30 years before he founded a real winery in 1996.
The average standard of his wines is high. Besides the Cabernet
Franc, I tasted an aromatic, fresh and spicy Gewürztraminer as
well as an apricot-like Viognier that was not too heavy (“for this
variety, it is essential to determine the right picking
moment”), an intense Chardonnay fermented in
French oak and a full-bodied toasty and plummy
Cabernet-Sauvignon as well as two surprisingly lovely
Port-style wines.
MOVING OVER TO PINOT NOIRColorado’s highest vineyards are east of Grand
Valley, roughly an hour’s drive away. This is Delta
County with the smaller wine villages like
Cedaredge, Hotchkiss (“friendliest town
around”) and Paonia. Over a dozen wineries are
disseminated in an often spectacular and changing
HARD-WORKING BRENT HELLECKSON FROMSTONE COTTAGE
LANCE HANSON FROM JACK RABBITHILL, ORGANIC WINE GROWER ANDCREATOR OF SOME FABULOUS WINES
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landscape of fertile valleys, desert-like basins, rocky slopes and
stately tablelands. Completely isolated on one such tableland,
Lance Hanson planted the state’s first entirely organic vineyard,
Jack Rabbit Hill. The vines, from carefully selected clones, grow on
limestone soil layered over rich chalk. An energetic, fast-speaking
Lance produces remarkable wines - roughly 1,200 cases of them -
which normally sell out within nine months. A case in point is the
M & N, a red, fruity, full-bodied blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot
COLORADO’S TOP TEN GRAPE VARIETIES
1. Merlot 21%2. Chardonnay 18%3 Cabernet-Sauvignon 13%4. Syrah 9%5. Cabernet Franc 7%6. Riesling 6%7. Pinot Noir 4%8. Gewürztraminer 3%9. Sauvignon Blanc 3%10. Others 16%
Amongst others is Lemberger (blaufränkisch)which, like in Washington State, producessome pleasant wines. Cinsault, Malbec,Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot are also grown on asmall scale. Several Muscat varieties aregrown for sweet wine.
WEBSITESLots of information on Colorado wines can to be found at www.coloradowine.comTourist information can be found at www.colorado.com
ABOUT 600 PEOPLE COME FORBRUNCH EVERY SUNDAY AT THEBROADMOOR RESORT HOTEL
BOOKCLIFF IS A SMALL WINERY WITHA LARGE RANGE OF WINES
Meunier. As is his Wild Rosé, a crisp, fresh dry rosé made out of
the hybrid Maréchal Foch variety. On a hillside site with views
over Paonia, nestled in its lush green valley, space engineer Brent
Helleckson has been creating his winery piecemeal for over
twelve years. Stone Cottage produces between 600 and 800
cases annually. In spite of the altitude, spring frost often occurs,
striking as much as four times last April. At the same time,
drought is a problem, especially for young vines. Consequently,
it took six years before he could pick the first harvest of Pinot
Noir, the 2006 vintage. But it was an exquisite, delightful juicy
yet powerful wine with a dense colour. Stone Cottage’s vineyard
grows on rocky volcanic soil with clay and basalt on a chalk
substrate. The rocky in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains can often be
found in his vineyards.
Text and photography: Hubrecht Duijkerwww.hubrechtduijker.com
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 79
FAMILY BUSINESS
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The Benzigers of Sonoma represent biodynamics in action, not just in the way theyfarm their vineyards, but also how they run their family business.
Biodynamics relies on the idea that a successful ecology isone that is self-regulating, self-correcting, and sustainable.Just as biodynamic viticulture must be sensitive to
natural processes and the harmony of each individual element toother elements as well as to the whole, the success of the Benzigerfamily winery recognizes the individual value and talents of everyoneworking in the organization and understands how these skillscombine to create a sustainable, thriving whole.
The Benzigers story starts in 1980 when Mike Benziger, then thirty,and his wife Mary, found an overgrown ranch in the SonomaMountains he thought had potential for viticulture. The Benzigerfamily purchased the property, and most of the clan, Mike’sparents and siblings included, moved to California. Today, almosttwo dozen Benzigers live on or near the 93 hectare (230 acres)estate located in the hamlet of Glen Ellen.
At the beginning, “everyone worked seven days a week, all withthe same title, all with the same salary,” says Mike Benziger,general manager and winegrower. Vineyards were planted, awinery, built. And, they started the Glen Ellen brand (sold in1994), packaging varietal bulk wine that sold for a modest $5per bottle.
As the business developed, family members veered toward tasksthat interested them individually: winemaking, viticulture, marketing,technical, etc. Roles became specialized, and it became clear thatsome jobs required more time or skill than others. The model ofeveryone earning the same simply wouldn’t hold.
After the family patriarch, Bruno Benziger, died in 1988, the familyneeded to develop a plan fair to everyone. They enlisted the expertiseof Jim Clark, a Harvard University industrial psychologist to help.
Benziger Family Winery,Sonoma Mountain
Benziger Family
80 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
FAMILY BUSINESS
Dr. Clark took a holistic approach, recognizing the worth of everyone’stask in the business. A winemaker needs grape growers. Both needsales and marketing. Sales and marketing need product. Everyoneneeds good facilities, equipment and an administration to hold alltogether.
To assure fairness, positions were examined, skills and type ofresponsibility to the whole were assessed, and formula for faircompensation was created. Also recognized was that all talents hadvalue, whether professional or technical. Education and practicalexperience were encouraged and supported, creating within thefamily a diversity of individual interests and skills that complementedthe whole. A family constitution was ratified that defined roles,expectations, responsibility to the business and to one another,conflict resolution, education, employment, as well as and mechanismsfor change if needed. Self-regulation, in biodynamic terms.
There are quarterly meetings for family members who work for thecompany full-time discussing vision, evaluating resources and goals.At least once per year, the entire family meets, along with spouses andchildren. “It’s vital that everyone feels they can be heard, see what ishappening, or feel responsibility for the overall good,” says Mike. The[big] family meeting is an important aspect of unification,” says Mike. Education, professional and technical, is supported by the family. But,a job at the winery is not automatic. Family members who finishschool must work for another company for at least three years beforereturning to the family business. There are no guarantees. If a familymember is highly qualified, the company will try to find a place.“But,” adds Mike, ”it is important that employees outside the familyfeel secure, too. Their perspectives and insights are vital to the whole,too. Family members don’t necessarily have priority.”
BENZIGER FAMILY WINERY 1883 London Ranch Rd - Glen Ellen, Ca 95442Tel. +1 (888) 490 2739 - Fax +1 (707) 935 3016
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www.benziger.com
MIKE BENZIGER: ”IN THE BEGINNING, EVERYONE WORKED SEVEN DAYS A WEEK, WITH THE SAME TITLE AND WITH THE SAME SALARY”
Principal Benziger family members in the business
Mike Benziger - Founder, General Manager, and WinemakerBob Benziger - Director of Customer RelationsChris Benziger - National Sales ManagerKathy Benziger-Threlkeld - Director of Customer DevelopmentJoe Benziger - Winemaker at Imagery Estate WineryTim Wallace (married to Patsy Benziger) - PresidentErinn Benziger Weiswasser (Mike's Daughter) - East Coast Regional Sales Manager
Family members outside the business are supported to pursueinterests in other companies or fields. A family program gives childrengraduating from college a one year internship that covers all areas ofthe company: viticulture, winemaking, marketing, sales, and hospitality.Succession is an issue. Mike and siblings have nearly two dozenchildren ranging in age from 8 to 31. Most are still in school. Mike’stwo children, Erinn and Buck are involved with the winery. A coupleof others are in the wine industry, and at least one is currentlystudying enology.
Today, Benziger has the largest biodynamic property in Sonoma,and it is among the largest in North America. Purchased grapes aregrown using at least sustainable practices. The Benzigers hold seminarsfor its growers about sustainable and biodynamic viticulture.
Benziger relies on another family enterprise, Kobrand, to manage itssales and distribution in the US and abroad. “Kobrand represents anumber of family wineries, giving them clout in a very competitivemarket… It’s important for us to stick together,” says Mike.
Jamal Rayyis
Viewed from outside, the
world of Italian wine is complex
and is sometimes associated
ab road w i th s c anda l . Even in
Antiquity, it is recorded that Roman
aristocrats were never completely
convinced that the wine served at their
tables was consistently real Falerne.
Yet in Friuli, shared between Slovenia
and Austria until it became part of Italy
at the end of the Second World War,
the situation is quite different. This
little-known Italian region is as virtuous
as it is perfectionist. As early as 1787,
even before the classification of
Bordeaux’s crus in 1855, a classification
hierarchy for quality was established
for the winemaking region, though it
was abandoned for various reasons linked
to grapevine diseases, followed by the
appearance of phylloxera in 1888. This clas-
sification would be published only in 1931.
A TRADITIONOF WHITE WINEFriuli belongs to the autonomous region of Friuli-Venezia-
Giulia, which extends over 7,844 square kilometres, stretching
north to the border with Austria, east
to the border with Slovenia, west to
Veneto, and south to the Adriatic
Sea. The region is split between a
mountainous and a hilly area, from
which extends a relatively expansive
plain. It has 20,431 hectares of
vineyards with both white and red
varieties, although the region’s white
wines are better-known and a more
typical reflection of traditional local
wine production. The best Italian
examples of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot
Grigio are from Friuli (in particular from
Borgo del Tiglio and Davide Feresin), not
to mention some original interpretations
of Traminer Aromatico, most notably
from the wine estate I Feudi di
Romans. The red wines, made from
native varieties such as Refosco,
Pignolo and Schioppettino, are often
powerful and rustic and are not well-
known. In recent years they have
enjoyed a renewal of interest from
both Italian and international wine
drinkers looking for neglected regional red wines that are
good value for money.
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 81
When a Friuli winemaker such as Nicola Manferrari of Borgo del Tiglio callshis wine studio di bianco, or “study in white”, it begs the question if thisrefers to the work of an original winemaker seeking to set themselvesapart, or whether the study in question is a concept shared with otherproducers of this region.
Friuli: perfectionism in a bottle
Delphine lives between Milan and
Paris. She has a PhD in economics
from the University of Paris-Dauphine
and holds a qualification from the
Wine & Spirit Education Trust in
London. She heads the Italian
office of Gilbert & Gaillard.
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
BY DELPHINE VEISSIÈRE
82 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
In terms of red wine, the climatic and environmental
conditions here seem to offer a better expression of Pinot
Noir that in the colder alpine zone of Alto Adige or the hotter
zone of Oltrepo Pavese in Lombardy. The 2008 Pinot Noir
from the Masut da Rive winery is radiant and accessible,
attracting our attention (91/100) with its nose of red fruit and
cooked cherry over a balsamic background with hints of
eucalyptus, that continues on the palate with notes of fresh
fruit soaked in alcohol. However, with the exception of the
excellent 2008 Rivarossa (93/100) from Mario Schiopetto,
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are less adapted to this terroir.
©CONSO
RZIO FRIULI ISO
NZO
THIS LITTLE-KNOWN ITALIAN REGION IS AS VIRTUOUS AS IT IS PERFECTIONIST
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
GIANCARLO GALLO OFFERSAMAZINGLY ELEGANT WINES THAT BEAR WITNESSTO THE DIVERSITY OF THEESTATE’S TERROIR
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 83
Friuli: perfectionism in a bottle
Friulano, Verduzzo Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia
Istriana and Picolit, this latter used mainly for sweet wines.
At the end of the 1970s, Mario Schiopetto, one of the leading
lights of Friuli excellence, took over the family estate, developing
simple and innovative wine-producing methods that were
then adopted by other winemakers in the region. Following a
trip to France, he became interested in the relationship between
the quality of the wine and the hygiene of the winery, gentle
pressing of the grapes and fermentation without added sulfites.
As he explains, “A wine is its winemaker’s identity card.”
Although there are many winemakers who make good wine,
“few can truly be identified by their wine.” With his concept
of winemaking lying midway between the pursuit of personality
and of style, Schiopetto seeks to go beyond quality, an
approach that prioritises excellence and involves unique
oenological choices and methods that are still applied today
by his descendants.
… BUT LITTLE PLACE FORIMPROVISATION Yet the pursuit of oenological quality, a legacy of the Austrian
cultural influence and shared by a large majority of Friuli
winemakers, sometimes leads to a common Friuli style, leaving
little place for personal interpretation. Friuli white wines are
generally clean and consistent, both fleshy and angular, and
A PREFERRED TERROIRIn addition to the DOC appellation of Carso, the hilly areas of
DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli and DOC Collio are known for
the great quality of their terroirs of marly rock and “flysch di
Cormons” (alternating strata of marl and sandstone). This
area is responsible for Friuli’s most impressive white wines
and its internationally-known winemakers, including Jermann
and Villa Russiz. This is not to take anything away from the
DOC appellation of Isonzo del Friuli, which is similar to the
Bordeaux area of Graves, and a preferred terroir for growing
Pinot Grigio, the jewel in the crown of Friuli viticulture
internationally. Don’t forget that in 2010, Italy became the largest
supplier of wine to the British market, along with Australia
and the United States, with a 9% increase in sales volume and
a 12% increase in value according to Nielsen data - largely
thanks to sales of Pinot Grigio (part of which came from Alto
Adige) and Prosecco.
THE MARK OF FRIULI: SAVOIR-FAIRE ASSURED... Friuli’s winemakers traditionally pay particular attention to
the quality of their wine and are open to innovation. As early
as the 19th century, different French and German varieties
(particularly Chardonnay, Riesling, Traminer Aromatico and
Sauvignon) were being introduced in the region alongside
traditionally-cultivated native white varities including Tocai
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Giancar lo Gal lo and his father
84 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
often have an aftertaste with a pleasant note of salinity but in
which the fruit is too subtle. Grape varieties that are considered
too “distinctive”, such as Malvasia Istriana or Traminer, are
sidelined in favour of native varieties such as Ribolla Gialla,
which is more neutral and versatile. The sought-after wine
style can sometimes mask real potential in terms of personality
and originality. Few winemakers explore the distinctive
aspects of the terroir that could be expressed in the wine; the
most important thing is considered to be offering wines of
good quality. Yet Friuli winegrowers were pioneers of sustainable
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
THE VIE DI ROMANS WINERY
© RO
BERTO ROMAN
IN - FO
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THE DOC APPELLATION OF ISONZO DEL FRIULI IS SIMILAR TO THE BORDEAUX AREA OF GRAVES
Continued on page 86
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THE STARSWINE AWARDS 2011
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cultivation in Italy; the wines represent where they were made,
even if their characteristics are somewhat consensual from one
winemaker to another. An atypical wine on the borderline of
“Friuli style” is considered a concern, and yet all the elements
required for innovative excellence are present: the terroir, rigorous
appellations and generations of winemaking skill.
In various discussions with Friuli winemakers, the idea of
making wine that distinctively represents its terroir is too close a
reminder of everyday wine drunk in rural areas; that is, too
obvious and focused on style to attract their attention. However,
the personality of a wine is closely linked to its terroir and to the
attributes that make a wine characteristic of its appellation, or
even sub-areas of an appellation. The excellence of a wine comes
not only from its irreproachable quality, but also from the
touch of natural imperfection that makes it unique. Only a
few Friuli winemakers, such as Edi Keber, Renzo Sgubin and
Davide Feresin, offer expressive and distinctive terroir wines,
principally made from Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio.
FRIULI’S AMBASSADORS OF TASTE The Vie di Romans winery, under the guiding hand of its
owner Giancarlo Gallo, offers amazingly elegant wines that
bear witness to the diversity of the estate’s terroir. Certain
wines, such as the 2009 Piere Sauvignon (91/100), come from
Italian clones, which is not the case for the 2009 Vieris
Sauvignon (88/100). In the production of the white wines,
spontaneous malolactic fermentation is consistently prevented
and controlled along with the successive addition of sulfites
86 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS
Illy was founded in Trieste in 1933 by Francesco Illy. Today it produces and sells coffee in 140 countries over fivecontinents. Its unique blend of espresso is composed of nine different types of pure Arabica. Recently the companyhas taken an interest in the world of wine, which shares many affinities with the world of coffee. For Riccardo Illy,tasting a good coffee is similar to tasting a fine wine. A sommelier and avid wine lover, Riccardo, the second sonof the third generation of Illys (a family of Hungarian origin), is on an incessant quest for quality. He explains that “to makean excellent espresso, 50 coffee beans are required, but just one flawed bean can ruin it.” When asked about the best wine he has evertasted, he responds, “Romanée-Conti, of course!”
Illy pays close attention to the spread of coffee culture and to this end hascreated a “university of coffee” in Trieste (www.unicaffe.it). During
the production process, Illy coffee undergoes 125 qualitycontrol checks, with each batch receiving eight sensorial
analyses by the ten or so house tasters. As Riccardoexplains, “The unifying thread between coffee andwine is quality. At Illy, we created the university ofcoffee because learning how to taste an Illy coffeeshould be like learning how to taste a varietalwine.”
Like a wine, a coffee should first be examinedvisually to evaluate the quality of the crema (the
foam), the size of the bubbles, the extraction, thehomogeneity and the colour. The olfactory analysis is
limited by the crema, which conceals the aromas, so theseare better perceived through retro-nasal breathing. The palate
and mouthfeel are described, like a wine, based on bitterness, tannicproperties and body, as well as on smoothness, acidity and, occasionally, minerality.
Like blended wines, such as Champagne for example, the different geographic origins of the beans affect the style and the personalityof coffee blends. Illy’s ultimate aim is to strive for the characteristic Illy taste despite the vagaries of nature or political regimes (inEthiopia, for example). Riccardo also emphasises that Illy buys directly from local coffee producers, organising a competition in whichthe 30 best producers receive a prize.
In 2010, the Illy Group had a turnover of 305 million euros; today it controls Illycaffè, Domori, Damiani Frères and the Mastrojanniwine estate in Montalcino. The latter’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino gained our attention with its assertive, tannic characterand flavours of fruit and liquorice, while the 2005 is less intense, fruitier and agreeable.
By Delphine Veissière
SAVOURING COFFEE LIKE WINE
Friuli: perfectionism in a bottle
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 87
in order to retain the characteristics of the terroir. Particular
importance is placed on the quality of the acids and on the
length of maturation time. These wines have a creamy element,
but this is secondary to the fruit. Hyper-oxygenation is shunned
at Vie di Romans as it would smooth out the characteristics of
terroir, however, the Ronco del Gelso winery uses it for certain
grapes (Pinot Grigio, for example). The latter wines have
fleshy and luscious fruit, rather than the characteristic freshness
and green fruit acidity of Alto Adige wines. We should also mention
the timeless style and elegance of Venica & Venica wines, which
delight the palate with their finesse, subtlety and length. �
OUR TOP TEN PICKSOF FRIULI WHITES
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
VENICA & VENICA WINES DELIGHT THEPALATE WITH THEIR FINESSE,
SUBTLETY AND LENGTH
VENICA & VENICA WINERY HAS A VERY PURE ITALIAN STYLE
92/100 Vie di Romans Chardonnay 2009
91/100 Vie di Romans Piere Sauvignon 2009
91/100 Borgo San Daniele Bianco Arbis 2009
91/100 Schiopetto Mario Schiopetto Bianco 2008
90/100 Angoris Bianco Spiule 2008
90/100 Vie di Romans Flor di Uis 2009
89/100 Ronco del Gelso Sot Lis Rivis 2009
89/100 Davide Feresin Pinot Grigio 2009
89/100 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore 2006
89/100 Venica & Venica Ronco delle Mele 2009
88 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
REGION
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VIEW OF THE CITY OF JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA FROM THE ALCAZAR
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Andalusiadazzling in more ways than oneIt is sometimes disappointing to see a certain degree of standardisation in theworld of wine. However if there is one region that the criticism cannot belevelled at it is Andalusia and its flagship appellation, Sherry. Extremely hot andsun-drenched yet also subject to high rainfall in the areas nearest the Atlantic,Andalusia is the cradle of rare grape varieties, amazing soils, unique wine makingmethods and consequently astonishing wines such as Sherry, the name theEnglish coined for Jerez. BY PHILIPPE VERRIER
Andalusia - dazzling in more ways than one
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 89
THE 7,600-HECTARE VINEYARD THAT PRODUCESSHERRY IS LOCATED IN THE PROVINCE OF CADIZ
With just the 14-kilometre-wide Straits of Gibraltar separating it
from North Africa, Andalusia alone embodies the whole of
southern Spain. It is the most densely-populated region and
boasts some of the country’s largest cities such as Seville, Granada, Córdoba,
Malaga and Cadiz. It is also a very varied region with one side facing the Atlantic,
the other the Mediterranean. It is home to plain areas with fairly high rainfall
such as the Guadalquivir valley, desert regions though also mountainous areas
like the Sierra Nevada and its highest peak, the Mulhacen (3,478 metres).
ONE OF A KINDThe 7,600-hectare vineyard that produces
Sherry is located in the southernmost corner
of the Iberian Peninsula, in the western part of
this huge region of Andalusia, the Province of
Cadiz. Hemmed in between the plains of the
Guadalquivir river, the banks of the Guadalete
river and the Atlantic coastline, the vineyard is
centred on the town of Jerez. It enjoys out-
standing weather with over 600 mm of annual
rainfall, over 3,000 hours of sunshine and an
average temperature of 17.3°C.
However, the vineyard’s defining feature is not
the weather but the unique combination of
unusual soil types and rare grape varieties.
Anyone travelling to Jerez for the first time is
almost dazzled by the whiteness of the soil.
Albariza or white marl reigns supreme here.
This chalky soil is reminiscent of another
appellation renowned for its superlative white
wines, Champagne. Albariza is easy to plough,
retains water and allows the vines to plunge
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their roots more than six metres deep in search of complex nutrients.
The barros and arenas (clay and sand) are less prestigious soil types
yet they impart an element of complexity to the blends. The
vineyard is shared between more than 300 pagos with estates such
as Carrascal, Macharnudo, Añina and Balbaina at the top end. The
unusual nature of the soil is matched by the uniqueness of the
grape varieties. The area is home to three varieties: Palomino,
Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel. Covering almost 90% of the
appellation, the very refined Palomino varietal is virtually always
planted on albariza type soils and produces grapes that are fragile
yet bursting with highly aromatic, sweet juice. Pedro Ximenez is
related to Riesling and used primarily for making sweet wines. It
is a thin-skinned grape variety extremely well-suited to passerillage
or raisining. Moscatel, which is grown almost exclusively in the
area nearest the Atlantic, imparts Sherry a superb aromatic touch.
FLOR, CRIADERAS AND SOLERAS, IN A LEAGUE OFTHEIR OWNThe leading wineries are located in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de
Barrameda where the humid climate is best suited to ageing the
wines. The wineries provide the stage for the traditional, lengthy
ageing process that gives Sherry its personality. After being made
in the classic way, the base wines with an alcoholic strength of
between 11 and 12.5° are transferred to botas where a very rare
phenomenon occurs: the yeasts that normally die after alcoholic
fermentation is completed, continue to ferment allowing a crust
known as flor to form, usually when the humidity levels are highest
in the spring and the autumn. The flor not only protects the wine
from oxidation, it also enables the sugars to be totally absorbed
thereby birthing extremely dry wines developing the specific aromas
associated with Sherry.
The botas are then placed in layers called criaderas according to a
well-established lay-out. The first level, called solera, is placed on
the ground and houses the oldest wines. The second layer, known
as the first criadera, is used to store younger wines, the third is
called second criadera and houses even younger wines, and so on.
Some soleras may contain as many as 14 criaderas hence the need
to construct buildings sometimes over 15 metres high. When
wines from the first level (the solera) are mature, some are
removed and bottled. The remaining wines are then topped up
with wines from the second layer, which in turn have to be topped
up with wines from the layer above, and so on.
This solera and criadera ageing system was defined in 1483 in the
appellation’s first official set of rules. Its aim is to smooth out any
variations from one year to the next so as to provide a wine of
consistent quality. It implies inventories however equating to at
least three years’ harvest though this rises to seven or even nine in
the case of premium Sherries. According to Marcelino Piquero, sales
director at Bodega Sanchez Romate, “this guarantees excellent
quality but also entails extremely high production costs which
unfortunately are not passed on to retail”.
THE BOTAS ARE PLACED IN LAYERSCALLED CRIADERAS ACCORDING TO
A WELL-ESTABLISHED LAY-OUT
MARCELINO PIQUERO, SALES DIRECTORAT BODEGA SANCHEZ ROMATE
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Andalusia - dazzling in more ways than one
GENEROSO, PALO CORTADO,CREAM… WELCOME TO THEWORLD OF SHERRYAlthough every type of Sherry deserves a mention, a detailed
description of each one would run into several pages. In a nutshell,
Sherry can be divided into four main categories:
GENEROSOSThese are dry wines with a maximum residual sugar content of 5 g
per litre. They are made primarily from the Palomino varietal and
as fermentation ends, a crust of yeast or flor forms. The wines are
subsequently fortified. Depending on the level of fortification,
which ranges from 15.5° to over 17°, the wine will be classed as
fino, amontillado, oloroso or palo cortado.
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this is identified by a slanting line on the botas. At the end of the
ageing process, the wines are tasted again by a panel of tasters who
decide whether they are fit to become palo cortado. If they are
deemed suitable, a horizontal line cuts through the slanting line
on the botas, hence the name palo cortado which means “broken
stroke”. The wine that was originally fortified to 15° is fortified a
second time with a resultant alcoholic strength of 17°, hence
breaking down the crust and leading to a slightly oxidative ageing
phase. This produces a marvellous Sherry showing extreme finesse
and combining aromas of Seville orange, lemon, almond, butter…
GENEROSOS DE LICORThese are generosos wines to which dessert wine is added at the end
of the wine making process. Depending on the type of wine, the
sugar content varies although it is always above 5g/litre. The
category contains three styles: Pale Cream, Medium and Cream.
Very popular in England where it accounts for over 40% of Sherry
sales, Cream is blended from generous oxidative wines (mainly
olorosos) and a significant proportion of dessert wines. It is
reminiscent of dried fruits, nougat and caramel and makes a marvellous
complement to fruit and ice cream, though also to foie gras or
blue-veined cheeses.
DESSERT WINESThese are named after the grape varieties they are made from:
Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel. They are drawn from late harvest
fruit which undergoes raisining, also known as soleo. Probably the
most elegant, or at least the most unusual of the two, the Pedro
Ximenez is made from grapes with a potential alcoholic strength
of 16° (approximately 300g of sugar per litre of must). After the
raisining process, which lasts for about ten days on racks laid on
the ground, sugar content can rise to anything up to 500g/l. Partial
alcoholic fermentation then oxidative ageing begin. The result is a
wine of extraordinary complexity suggestive of raisins, coffee,
chocolate, liquorice… The absolute must is pairing them with bitter
chocolate or goats cheeses.
DO MANZANILLA - SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDANo comment on Manzanilla would be complete with mentioning
Sanlúcar de Barrameda where the myriad bars never serve tapas
without a glass of Manzanilla. Manzanilla is a top-end wine with
a very affordable price tag. Prices range from 5-7 euros a bottle
which seems derisory considering the amount of work involved.
Over 50% of Manzanillas are drunk within Spain, mainly because
the leading importer countries overlooked it for many years, as
Some of the most noteworthy wines in this category are the finos
and they are extremely popular in Spain. Marcelino Piquero
believes “this popularity is due to a relatively low alcohol content
(roughly 15°) making them particularly suitable for hot climates.
It is also because other wines in the category were shipped to
England for many years”. Fino is also unusual in that the
fermentation process is fully completed and the wine is protected
by the flor. This is the driest wine in the generoso category. It exudes
suggestions of almond, bread and freshly-cut hay on the nose.
On the palate, it is a dry, light wine that pairs easily with
tapas, especially olive-based tapas, dried fruits, Serrano ham,
anchovies, gazpacho…
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the very refined, delicate palo
cortado. Only the best quality must is used to make palo cortado and
CREAM SHERRY IS MARVELLOUSWITH FRUIT AND ICE CREAM
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TIO PEPE IS THE HIGHEST-SELLING SHERRY BRAND IN THE WORLD
they did with fino. Manzanilla is made in a similar way to fino.
However the humid climate in Sanlúcar de Barrameda promotes
prolonged ageing “on the crust”. The crust tends to disappear after
a few years’ ageing causing slight oxidation. Manzanilla develops
floral, almond and yeast notes.
DIFFERENT COUNTRIES HAVEDIFFERENT DRINKING HABITSAs amazing as it may seem, it was not until 2010 that Spain
became the leading global market for Sherry with 12.7 million
litres, ahead of England (12.6 million litres), Holland (9 million)
and Germany (5.3 million). However, the overall figures do not
reflect huge differences in drinking habits. Manzanilla and fino
alone account for three-quarters of Sherry drunk in Spain whereas
they only account for 14 % in England. It is exactly the opposite with
the generosos de licor. They alone represent 77 % of Sherry drunk in
England, 55 % in the Netherlands and a diminutive 12 % in Spain.
The most popular Sherry worldwide is fino.
Andalusia - dazzling in more ways than one
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 93
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CARMEN AUMESQUET HEADS UP PR & MARKETING AT THE TRADE BOARD
Continued on page 94
VICKY GONZALEZ, PRODUCT MANAGER OF GONZALEZ BYASS
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BRIEF GLOSSARY OF SPANISHAND SHERRY TERMS
Albariza Chalky soilBodega EstateBota A container for ageing Sherry wines. It is usually
a 600-litre butt (equivalent to 36 arrobas, 1 arroba equals 16.66 litres). To promote the growth of the “veil” or crust, the 600-litre butts are filled to the 500-litre or 30 arroba level. Two puños (or handfuls) of “headspace” are left inside.
Capataz Cellar masterDO Denominación de Origen, the controlled
appellation certifying the provenance of the wine
Encabezado The fortification processPago Vineyard sites that are hived off within the
appellation area. Similar to growth statusPalo A line drawn on the barrels to
distinguish different levels of qualitySoleo Raisining
Global Sherry consumption has fallen from over 56 million litres
just five years ago to 46 million currently, following a sharp drop
in sales in England and the Netherlands. Marcelino Piquero
believes that “focus should therefore be shifted towards the
American and Russian markets which have the added advantage
of being quality-driven ”. His opinion is shared by Carmen
Aumesquet who heads up the public relations and marketing
department at the trade board. She also emphasises Sherry’s
“extraordinary aromatic spectrum which enables the most
challenging of food pairings, particularly with Chinese, Japanese
and Indian food”. For the third time now the trade board has
therefore held the Sherry Cup inviting chefs from around the
world to design a Sherry-based menu. The results were astounding,
ranging from artichoke-based dishes to plum soup and from bull’s
tail to smoked sardines.
Another significant area for development is cocktails. Such a
broad range of styles lends itself to a mind-boggling selection of
cocktails. Gonzalez Byass owns Tio Pepe, the highest-selling
Sherry brand in the world. Its product manager, Vicky Gonzalez,
believes it is important to open Sherry bars, particularly in
London though also in emerging markets. They would serve
cocktails, tapas and most importantly would sell the Andalusian
lifestyle.
Sherry boasts a huge number of key assets: Andalusia’s image, the
sun, flamenco, highly unusual food and wine pairings… But
above all, it is a superlative wine, so different to any other wine in
the world and constantly offering new discoveries. �
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96 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
WINE AND FOOD
Childhood memories
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr
Gilles Goujon of three Michelin-starred restaurant l'Auberge du Vieux Puitsgives us a marvellous opportunity to step back in time with a recipe brimmingwith flavour and emotion.
During my childhood, my father was in the Forces
and we travelled a lot. We did however stay in
Marrakech for five years and I still have unforgettable
memories of that time. I think they were the best years of my
parents’ lives, with my two sisters and I. Since then, I have gone
back regularly with my family. Marie-Christine and my two sons,
Enzo and Axel, enjoy these moments with me and every time it
is a nostalgic trip back to my childhood. This recipe is a nod to
these memories, a kind of picture postcard. I like to cook this
Catalan-style lamb slowly. The pungent spices, the argan oil, the
sweetness, the tanginess, they all conjure up those childhood
memories in Marrakech…
Obviously this recipe can change with the seasons – figs can be
substituted for apricots, quinces for figs etc.
Gilbert & Gaillard
Gilles Goujon, chef at three Michelin-starred restaurant l'Auberge du Vieux Puits
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 97
RECIPESERVES 8 • Ingredients
RACK OF LAMB• 2 racks of lamb, 8 ribs Frenched and dressed by your butcher
• 1 lamb shoulder• marinade for the shoulder• 3 aubergines• 1 bunch of thyme• olive oil• argan oil• salt & pepper
LAMB JUICES• 300 g ground lamb bones• 300 g lamb trimmings• 3 l water• oil• ras el hanout blended spices• 1 fresh tomato
APRICOT PUFF PASTRY TART• 150 g ghee• 100 g granulated sugar• 250 g all-butter puff pastry• 8 apricots
Shoulder marinade• 2 natural yoghurts• 80 g chopped onion• 50 g chopped dried apricots• 100 g fresh apricot quarters• 10 cl sunflower oil• 5 cl argan oil• 1 bunch chopped coriander• 1 bunch chopped mint• ½ bunch fresh chopped thyme flowers• 15 g ras el hanout blended spices• 10 g ground ginger• 10 g ground cumin
Method
48 HOURS BEFORE• prepare the marinade• sweat the finely chopped onions and stew them with the fresh and dried apricots then leave to cool
• in a shallow dish, combine all the ingredients with the stewed mixture
• marinate the shoulder in the mixture for 24 hours
THE DAY BEFORE• remove the lamb from the marinade• in a roasting dish, brown the shoulder on each side with a little butter and olive oil. Add the marinade and 50 cl of water
• cover and cook for 7 hours at 90°C, basting occasionally• if necessary, add a little water during cooking
LAMB JUICES• brown the bones and trimmings in the oil• remove the fat, add the tomato quarters and the ras el hanout and deglaze with the white sauce base
• Cook on a medium heat for 3 hours, occasionally removing the fat and foam
• sieve using a mesh chinois• remove the fat• reduce again to a syrupy consistency• infuse with thyme• add a dash of lemon juice
AUBERGINES• cut the aubergines into 2 cm thick slices, brown them in a fryingpan with the olive oil. Add salt and pepper, drain and set aside.
• when the shoulder is half cooked, after 3 ½ hours, cover withthe aubergines and continue to cook with a lid on
RACK OF LAMBseal the rack of lamb fat side down with a little butter in the roastingtray. Fry well on all sides and cook for 8 minutes at 160°C. Leaveto rest for 10 minutes on the oven door.
APRICOT PUFF PASTRY TART• prick the puff pastry with a fork• using a pastry cutter, cut out 16 circles• butter the circles with a pastry brush and cover them with granulated sugar
• bake for 10 minutes at 200°C on a non-stick tray• separate the two apricot halves and remove the stone • butter with a pastry brush and sprinkle with sugar• Cook for 10 minutes at 220°C• Lay the cooked apricot on the caramelised puff pastry
Serving• using a table spoon, separate 8 pieces of lamb• place a piece of lamb in the middle of a plate• slice two lamb ribs per person• lay the ribs across the piece of lamb• place two slices of aubergine on them and top with the apricot tarts• Drizzle a little thyme flavoured lamb juice and add alug of argan oil
Catalan-style roast rack of lamb “el xai”,lamb tagine with candied aubergines and apricots, “Memories of Marrakech”
Serve with red wines: Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
2009, Domaine Arguti, Cuvée Ugo (93/100), or
Bandol La Bastide Blanche Fontanéou 2008 (94/100)
RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS5, Av St Victor - 11360 Fontjoncouse - France
Tel. +33 (0)4 68 44 07 37 - www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr
98 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
ORGANIC NEWS
Before addressing this issue, it is essential to clarify the meaning ofplant protection products. From a wine consumer perspective, it isprobably held to mean “synthetic chemicals”. Etymologicallyspeaking, however, it relates to products designed to treat plantorganisms. These may be mineral (copper sulphate) or organic(carbamates), of natural (Bacillus thuringiensis) or synthetic origin.Depending on the circumstances, they are collectively known aspesticides (the generic term) or plant protection products (the legalterm). This complexity is the first stumbling block.
Any attempt to replace these products implies
understanding their usage, which is to treat plants
against disease. The range of potential vine diseases is
extensive and also subject to change. Until the mid 19th century
for instance, phylloxera, downy mildew and powdery mildew did
not exist in Europe. Each of these diseases prompted responses,
some more satisfactory and permanent than others. Phylloxera
was all but eradicated using an extremely ecological technique:
grafting. Powdery mildew is traditionally tackled using sulphur
sourced from quarries or from volcanic activity. Downy mildew is
treated using different forms of copper.
HIGH YIELDS JUST ONE ASPECTWhat we refer to as traditional treatments are in actual fact fairly
recent when compared to the history of vine growing (6,000 years
BC). The real turning point came in the 20th century, however,
with the momentum of change increasing after the Second World
War. At that time, a large section of the European and global wine
industry adopted a more industrial approach. Change came not so
much in the form of higher yields, which had already been
achieved in the 19th century by planting on the fertile soils of
alluvial plains, but rather by using a more targeted technical
strategy: one molecule for each disease. This brought real progress
and, objectively speaking, a reduction in certain diseases.
However, more widespread, systematic and excessive use of
agrochemicals upset the balance, and sometimes imbalances can
lead to a snowball effect.
A REDUCTION IN QUANTITYAND QUALITYEveryone now agrees that regulations are required. In addition to
the customary organic approach, countries are gradually
introducing a more restrictive framework. A European regulation
provides guidance for these initiatives, reducing the quantity and
quality of products. In France, the Grenelle Environment Forum
led to the Ecophyto 2018 strategy which aims to reduce use of
pesticides by 50%. Achieving this objective involves working
towards a new equilibrium:
• controlling vine vigour (the denser the vegetation,
the greater the chance of disease),
• controlling vineyard exposure (plot selection, appropriate
trellising, pruning methods),
• promoting biodiversity (preserving hedges, trees and grass-
covered strips of land around the edges of vineyards),
• resuming mass selection (clones seem to promote the spread
of disease because each individual plant from the same
clone is identical),
• encouraging research on new grape varieties with a higher
natural resistance to disease (a very controversial issue because
it paves the way for GMOs - genetically modified organisms).
Replacing plant protectionproducts
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During the vine’s growing cycle, common sense measures can be
encouraged:
• observe the vineyard
• closely monitor the weather and adapt spraying
• set the spraying machine properly (this limits pollution
and improves efficacy)
• alternate plant protection products so as to avoid
developing immunity
• adjust the dose depending on leaf mass, the sensitivity of
the grape variety and actual disease pressure
• restrict unnecessary vegetation through shoot suckering,
thinning and of course pruning
• stimulate the vine’s natural defence system
(another controversial topic)
THE RECURRENT ISSUE OFSULPHURWithout being too controversial, unreasonable over-
simplification of the debate on pesticide use in general is open to
strong criticism. The real issue is not about the quantity of plant
protection products used but about their nature and
harmlessness. The following example illustrates the point: in
organic vine growing, powdery mildew can be treated with
sulphur (powdered or wettable). This will entail the use of over
100 kg of sulphur per hectare annually. If synthetic products are
used to treat the same disease, less than 3 kg are used per hectare
annually. The combined amount of sulphur thus accounts for over
70% of vine agrochemical tonnage even though it is considered
fairly harmless to humans and the environment. Conversely,
copper is permitted (although restricted) in an organic approach
even though it is a heavy metal that is dangerous for people’s
health and soil life. These examples show how complex the
problem is. Such a complex issue deserves to be addressed with at
least some degree of equanimity, objectivity and honesty.
Jean NatoliConsultant oenologistOrganic wine grower
Chair of the VinoLatino association
A SERIOUS OUTBREAK OF NOBLE ROT ON A BUNCH OF GRAPES; ASPERGILLUS IS IN FACT BEGINNING TO DEVELOP ON THE AFFECTED GRAPES
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Shanghai has a new hot spot: the Kartel Wine Lounge. Vincent Landais was part of
the team that created Dr Wine, the highly successful wine bar that has quickly
become part of Shanghai nightlife; with this project under his belt, he was ready for
a new challenge. Driven by his passion for wine, Vincent assembled a team of talented
people motivated by excellence and creativity. The objective was to create a destination
featuring excellent wines, gourmet food, inspiring design and underground music:
after many months of tireless effort, the Kartel Wine Lounge was born.
100 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
SHANGHAI LIFE
Kartel opening: the event of the season
Kartel is a three-storey
lounge bar located in the
heart of the former French
Concession (the area of the city once
designated for the French). The
neighborhood is a pleasant mix of
residential and retail areas, Chinese
and European-style architecture,
international restaurants and tiny
street stalls, wide, tree-lined streets
and traditional lanes; it is the perfect
combination of what constitutes
Shanghai today. Designers Thomas
Dariel and Benoit Arfeuillere (voted
Best Young Designers in 2010 by Asian
Associated Design Press) wanted to
create a space in which to play with
these contrasts; taking “Destroy Chic”
as their concept, the aim was to be
elegant yet provocative in this very
heritage-focused district.
WINES ANDCOCKTAILSKartel has a distinctive selection of
wines, including some made by famous
and talented French winegrowers.
The emphasis is on organic wines, and
specifically those made according to
biodynamic principles. Kartel ' s
extensive wine list is supplemented
with a monthly rotating selection of
18 wines by the glass, offering wine
aficionados the chance to discover
grape varieties from around the globe. One
of the most surprising and exciting pages
of the drinks list is that featuring
Kartel's signature wine cocktails,
designed by the Urban Bar team. With
names such as Strawberry Crush and
Sichuan Kiss, this refreshing selection
will certainly tempt and tickle your
taste buds.
After receiving a Master’s degree in sales andmarketing in 2007, Thomas moved to China,where he learned Chinese and analysed the
prospects of this developing market. In August 2008, he created his own company,BS Wine. Based in the Gilbert & Gaillardoffice in Shanghai, he is our official
representative in China and Hong Kong.
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SHANGHAI LIFE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 101
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Kartel Wine Lounge Fifth Floor, N°1 North Xiangyang Road, ShanghaïTel. +86 135 114 32 633
WHAT’S ON THEMENU?The menu consists of trendy French-
style tartines, innovative tapas and
gourmet burgers. Kartel also offers
diners imported Spanish cold cuts,
French cheeses, and a host of lip-
smacking desserts to round off the
meal. All the basics are homemade,
including the freshly-baked bread used
for the tartines, the sun-dried tomatoes,
and the hand-sliced potato chips which
are fried to perfection.
102 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
EXPORT
China:approaching the wine market
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“But where are wines sold?” I was asked recently by Anaël Payrou,managing director of Cellier des Demoiselles at the Chengdu WineFair. Many producers are keen to attract Chinese buyers yet they seemto be baffled by Chinese distribution channels. Some wines arrive atwarehouses in the Free Trade Zones in Shanghai, Shenzhen, Ningboand Xiamen only to be snapped up after just a couple of phone callsand hand shakes, leaving the same warehouses at breakneck speed.
Shanghai
EXPORT
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 103
Producers, promotion organisations, governments and
Chinese market players all agree the Chinese market is
booming. Now a highly-coveted destination, it means
newcomers have to be more rigorous in their approach. The
Chinese have a heightened sense of business. Any wine exporter in
the world will tell you about the ceremonial business dinners,
often attended by Party members or VIPs. This is what the Chinese
call “Mian zi” (face).
To promote a better understanding of wine distribution in China,
we interviewed people representing the different tiers: an
importer, a distributor and a consumer.
1/ IMPORTER:SUN HUI, SALES DIRECTORAT LIFENG WINESWine imports have doubled on average over the last three
years. Who is benefiting from this growth? What kind of
executive is investing in the wine trade?
Most wine importers are of Chinese origin (95%). They begin by
setting up a local network. Foreign firms are still few and far
between even though they pioneered imports at the end of the
1990s (ASC Fine Wines, French Wine Paradox, DT Asia…). At the
time, most wines were sold in multiple retail outlets, some in
parallel networks. There were few Chinese wine consumers
because of the popularity of local spirits, and the choice of wines
available was very restricted. Also, wine was an acquired taste that
took time to appreciate.
Similarly, import taxes were not conducive to imports of foreign
foodstuffs, discouraging companies from investing in the sector.
Wine was only accessible to the more affluent consumers, and
even then only occasionally. Drinking habits have changed
considerably over the last five years. The emergence of the middle
classes has been a real boon and has sparked new needs, including
wine drinking.
To be honest, though, most importers did not become rich
overnight by trading in wine. They made their fortunes either in
industry or in the property market (in the 1980s and 90s). Also, the
major players relied on their existing network that they had built
up during their years of prosperity. They have excellent connections
with leading state officials. The government is undoubtedly the
largest consumer of wine to date. Every year, private firms spend
vast amounts of money on improving their relations with local
government. Wine has become commonplace in business. The
great growths of Bordeaux are offered as gifts to leading officials.
Similarly, local government organises its own banquets and buys
large quantities of wine. Who are the suppliers? Probably the same
major players who gave them wine as gifts! Their factories are
extremely attractive economic powerhouses for the government
because they create jobs and wealth for cities. Part of the Chinese
economy relies on the growth of these industries, allowing certain
local infrastructures to be funded. Consequently, leading officials
have a vested interest in supporting them, hence, the affluence of
wine executives.
There are two main sales periods every year that must not be
missed: the Moon Festival (usually in September) and the Chinese
New Year. All Chinese firms and administrations close so the
Chinese can have a week off with their families, an occasion
nobody wants to miss. Factories with thousands of employees give
presents or “Hong Bao” (a red envelope containing money). Some
firms import as many as 15,000 or 30,000 bottles of wine
annually just to give their employees presents. There is no resale.
Obviously, the Chinese wine market is about more than relations
with local government, and cities such as Shanghai, Beijing,
Canton and Shenzhen give fairly free rein to competition. A lot of
medium-sized importers work with small producers and are
expanding well in on-trade channels.
2/ DISTRIBUTOR: MR WANG,SALES DIRECTORAT SHENZHEN XIN JIU HUIHow are distribution networks structured in China?
Firstly, there are increasingly fewer middlemen in the marketplace
which makes it easier to control prices in provinces located a long
distance from the ports. Some distributors used to sell entry-level
wines at exorbitant prices and importers failed to create
distributor loyalty. As soon as consumers became aware of the real
prices of wines, local distributors immediately switched brands to
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bound to cause health problems, so gradually, Baijiu is being
replaced by wine.
Also, we regularly read articles about the health benefits of wine.
It reduces the risk of cardio-vascular disease. Two years ago, I
made my parents drink a glass of wine at least every other day. I
told them it was good for their heart. Now they enjoy it.
Personally, I drink two glasses of wine a day. Obviously, not
everyone drinks as much but I think that in five years time one in
two Chinese people will have wine in their cellar.
Which wines do you drink most?
I am actually always on the look out for new wines. I enjoy wines
from different countries, though I do have a penchant for France.
I like the value for money in the Languedoc, the finesse of the
great Bordeaux growths (the affordable ones), the freshness of
Alsace whites… Amongst New World countries, I like Chilean
Carmenère and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. At the moment, I
am drinking a Saint Chinian Roquebrun appellation wine - Les
Fiefs d’Aupenac 2006 - that I find excellent.
Thomas Magnani
104 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
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confuse consumers again. Business models have now changed.
Some importers are losing turnover to distributors who have
started importing. Also, the franchise system emerged two years
ago and is expanding apace. In some towns, there are as many as
ten wine shops in a single street.
Lastly, specialist logistics platforms for wine are gradually being
established through the Free Trade Zones. This is providing
producers with a faster route to market by making bonded
inventories available. A few major groups have already set up their
own sales offices in China.
3/ LOGISTICS:MANAGING DIRECTOROF SHANGHAI CARRY WAYAs a logistics co-ordinator you help importers with customs
clearance. Have you noticed an increase in the average
prices of imported wines?
I can remember starting out in logistics with a large company in
Shanghai where my task was to follow up customs clearance for our
importer clients. Entry-level wines accounted for roughly 80% of all
imported wines. Because of very high taxes, our clients were always
on the look out for the cheapest wines they could find. We have a
close relationship with them and give them as much advice as we
can. Obviously average prices have risen and buyers are increasingly
quality-driven. They want real brands. There are four buying cues
for an importer: the wine has to have a story, brands (range
consistency), value for money and a proactive wine producer.
4/ CONSUMER:MR XU, REAL ESTATE PROJECTMANAGER IN SHANGHAIWhy do the Chinese like wine so much?
Actually, I think there are three real reasons why the Chinese drink
wine: culture, rising income and health. Wine is cultural and the
Chinese like Culture with a capital C. There are many similarities
with tea. We use the same words to describe tea: we talk about
terroir, colour, aroma, finesse, balance… And we savour it in
exactly the same way as wine.
China is becoming more open-minded and consumers are more
affluent than before. We partake of more foreign food and drink.
We drink French wine, German beer, Scotch whisky, we eat Swiss
chocolate, Spanish ham… We simply want the best! The
government recently rolled out a campaign on the hazards of
drinking spirits. Traditionally, we drink a lot of Baijiu (a rice-based
spirit with an ABV of 50°) with food, but drinking it daily is
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IN SOME TOWNS, THERE ARE ASMANY AS TEN WINE SHOPS IN A
SINGLE STREET
"We are very proud to be able to reach an entirely
new audience of wine lovers to present the
best of French winemaking. The three guides
will also serve as an excellent promotional tool for our winemakers
in an increasingly competitive market. Look out for this world first
in the autumn of 2011".
GILBERT & GAILLARDgoes global!
Don’t miss the first wine guides in English, inChinese and Japanese created by French wine experts
CHINA
JAPAN
www.gilbertgaillard.com
US & UK
Philippe Roux explains what makesvintage Champagne so very special.
Champagne incites celebration and pleasure like no otherwine in the world. For our greatest moments in life,commemorations, winnings, weddings, milestone
birthdays, retirements, and numerous other special moments, wereach for Champagne to mark the occasion with its effervescencethat can’t help but lighten our spirits. It is both the symbol of a grandoccasion and the grand occasion that calls for such a festive wine.
Behind the celebration and laughter though, Champagne isserious wine and serious business. Champagne is a specificwine from the Champagne region, and not a style of sparklingwine. The soil and the grape varieties grown there produce asparkling wine with its own distinctive character and methodof production. One of the particularities of Champagne givesthe producers a great deal of control over the final productthat they release: Champagne can be blended not only bygrape variety but by vintage as well. A non-vintage Champagne(to which a vintage is not attributed) is a blending of manydifferent years, each having their own characteristics, to makethe final Champagne that the blender desires. 75% ofChampagnes sold are non-vintage. They can be fun and festiveand very good but the best grapes are reserved for the vintageChampagnes; all of the grapes are from one year which isdeclared on the label.
PHILIPPE ROUX IS A SPECIALIST IN THE NICHE MARKET OF RARE VINTAGES
106 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
WINE QUOTATIONS
Old Champagnes: a surprising tasting experience
POMMERY,RUINART,MOËT &CHANDON
Vintage Champagnes are serious, complex wines that can be
aged for decades. Champagnes are not often thought of as
wines that one lies down but just as any quality wine, they do
get more interesting with age. One of the greatest wine tasters
in the world, Michael Broadbent, is passionate about old
Champagnes and has tasted several even from the 19th century,
giving some of them his highest rankings, toting their excellent
structure and distinct aromas. The carbon dioxide bubbles can
add richness over time that is distinctive in older
Champagnes. One doesn’t need to go back to the 19th century
to experience all that an older Champagne has to offer.
Drinking a wine from a year that is important in one’s life
(wedding anniversary, birthday, for example) is always
moving. Drinking a Champagne from an important year, with
all of its notions of festivity, will only add to the poignancy of
the grand celebration.
The best Champagne vintages post World War II until 2000:
1945 1952 1959 1964 1971 1982 1985 1988 1990 1996
Philippe Roux
©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Old Champagnes: a surprising tasting experience
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 107
CHAMPAGNE
YEAR CHÂTEAU APPELLATION VOL PRICE VAT EXCL.
1934 POMMERY Brut Rosé Champagne 0.75 l 919,73
1943 RUINART Champagne 0.75 l 664,72
1952 CANARD DUCHENE Blanc de blancs Champagne 0.75 l 249,16
1952 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 647,99
1952 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 451,51
1955 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 656,35
1959 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 539,30
1966 BOLLINGER R.D. Champagne 0.75 l 413,88
1969 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 417,22
1970 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 417,22
1971 MUMM Cordon Rouge Magnum Champagne 1.50 l 280,10
1975 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 376,25
1976 CASTELLANE (DE) Brut Champagne 0.75 l 99,50
1976 CASTELLANE (DE) Blanc de Blancs Champagne 0.75 l 107,86
1978 RUINART DOM Champagne 0.75 l 165,55
1979 MUMM René Lalou Champagne 0.75 l 216,56
1980 POMMERY Cuvée Louise Champagne 0.75 l 188,13
1982 DOM PERIGNON Champagne 0.75 l 346,99
1982 MUMM Mumm de Mumm Champagne 0.75 l 165,55
1983 BOLLINGER Grande Année Champagne 0.75 l 149,67
1985 MUMM Grand Cordon Magnum Champagne 1.50 l 229,93
1986 MOET ET CHANDON Brut Impérial Champagne 0.75 l 165,55
1986 MOET ET CHANDON Brut Impérial Rosé Champagne 0.75 l 207,36
1986 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 288,46
1988 LAURENT PERRIER Brut Millésimé - Magnum Champagne 1.50 l 158,03
1988 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 288,46
1989 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 357,86
1990 PERRIER JOUET Belle Epoque Champagne 0.75 l 199,83
1990 TAITTINGER Comte de Champagne Champagne 0.75 l 229,93
1990 VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN Brut Rosé Champagne 0.75 l 124,58
1995 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 299,33
1998 RUINART DOM Champagne 0.75 l 116,22
1999 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 280,10
1999 ROEDERER Cristal Champagne 0.75 l 280,10
Please contact us for further informations : www.gilbertgaillard.com
He is one of Hollywood’s most powerful and influential men. Every one of hisanimated feature films is a box office hit. Creator of Toy Story, Up, Rapunzel andThe Princess and the Frog, John Lasseter is the main driving force behind PixarStudios. A highly colourful figure, he rumbles with pleasure as he talks aboutCars 2, the latest, smooth-running animated feature. But talk to him about wineand his eyes light up like two brightly shining headlights…
108 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
STARS & WINE
www.gilbertgaillard.com
©ALL RIGHTS RESER
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Considering the theme of Cars 2, wesimply have to ask this question, eventhough we know that alcoholic drinksand driving don’t mix. However, do youremember your very first car MrLasseter? How could I forget! My father worked asa Chevrolet dealer. The whole family,
including me, learnt to drive on a 1969Chevy Station Wagon. It was a real “cruiseship.” In just one go, we could carry ahorde of kids, cram the shopping in theboot and still be able to pile up cases ofwine because my father was a great loverof fine wines. Despite that, the car didn’thang around. It had an engine that could
really move! I was 16 and I can guaranteethat I was pretty proud to sit behind thewheel of an automobile like that!
You must also be proud to own one ofthe finest vineyards in Sonoma,California. Could you tell us a littleabout it?
John Lasseter
John Lasseter: “Wine is a family affair”
STARS & WINE
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 109
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Yes! Actually, I have just lost my father whodied on this property that he loved so much.My father passed away in his sleep. He was87. The last thing he saw, apart from hisfamily of course, was a marvellous sunsetout over our vineyards whilst drinking oneof our wines.
How long have you been at the helm ofthis vineyard?The love story began in 1993. We used tohave a cleaner working for us in Los Angeles.Every weekend she would make the tripto Sonoma valley and when she cameback she would wax lyrical about the beautifulcountryside that had unfurled before hereyes and especially about her passion for
wine. She was so passionately interested inthe subject and every time she mentionedher visits to wineries and encounters withwine growers, her eyes would light up. Mywife and I finally travelled there to see forourselves and it was love at first sight!
What happened ?The outcome was fairly predictable. Wewent on the same voyage of discovery as ourdelightful cleaner. Initially, we visited wine-ries, then the following year we went grapeharvesting. Very quickly we caught the winebug. We went on courses. We wanted toknow everything there was to know aboutwine and even bought hundreds of bookson the subject. For years, we took part in
groups teaching people how to make wine.Gradually, we became more confidentconnoisseurs and in 1993, we felt we wereready to go! We bought a property, hiredsome staff and began making our ownwine. There is nothing more exciting thanwatching your own vines grow. By 2000 wehad made our facilities more professional.We gave our first bottles of wine to ourfriends to celebrate the new millennium. Wehave been selling our wines for over tenyears now. We have yet to upstage the largewineries surrounding us, but at least we canbe proud of having a wine with body!
How many acres does your property cover?We own 36 acres (roughly 14.5 hectares) ofvines. We only make red, and try as much aspossible to produce a similar style toEuropean wines. They taste quite similar toSaint-Emilion. We have also designed aChâteauneuf-du-Pape-style wine blendedfrom Syrah and Grenache. In fact, I havechristened it “The Cannes Film FestivalWine” because my wife and I were theproud purveyors of wine served during theevent. The response was excellent. Duringthe latest Cannes festival we discovered awhole range of rosés. Please don’t tellAmerican customs officers this, but webrought 29 different bottles of rosé back inour suitcases! They were mainly Malbecvarietals which, to our surprise, actuallymake good rosés.
So wine at the Lasseter home is now afamily affair…Absolutely! My father and my uncle workedin wine. I took over from them and now myfive sons help me run the business and giveme a helping hand at every stage of the winemaking process. Three generations ofLasseters have been involved in winemaking. My youngest son for instance lovestrampling the grapes in our large vats.He’s a real Bacchus. In fact, I think he willgo on to study oenology!
Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU
Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association
John Lasseter
110 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
STARS & WINE
America’s most Francophile of actresses - along withJodie Foster - talks about her exclusive relationship withthe wines and terroirs of France.
people whose company I enjoy. The two gotogether. If there’s a good bottle of wine onthe table but none of the people I love toshare it with, I don’t open it. I wait for theright opportunity.
Which is your favourite, red, white or rosé?Rosé gives me a headache! Perhaps I justhaven’t chosen the right ones. I love tannicwines, red wines, especially Bordeaux.Actually, it’s my favourite colour for theclothes I wear. My wardrobe is very “grape-vine,” you know!
Where and when did you drink your bestwine?With friends, in Paris. I don’t rememberwhich wine it was but after just one sip itwas like the whole of France’s terroir camerushing onto my taste buds. It was anabsolutely unbelievable sensation! Whilstshooting Alien, Ridley Scott (the director)who owns a property in France, gave me awine that was absolutely out of this world.It was so good that I also forgot what waswritten on the label!
Do you remember your initial encounter,first- or second-hand, with wine?As a child, my father, who was a true wineconnoisseur, loved to hold blind tastings athome. He really appreciated the good andbeautiful things in life. Woe betide anyonewho tried to palm him off with vapidplonk! His sense of humour wouldimmediately go out the window! We usedto travel a lot with my family, mainly inFrance. I remember visiting a wine cellarhousing over 50,000 bottles of vintage wine.You should have seen my father. It was likehe had gone into Fort Knox! There was noholding him back! If we’d listened to him,
Is your relationship with wine a long-standing love affair?I love opening a bottle of wine, but not onmy own! I have to drink it with good foodand above all, with friends, family, basically
©ALL RIGHTS RESER
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Frank Rousseau and Sigourney Weaver
Sigourney Weaver: “I love tannicwines, red wines, especially Bordeaux”
we would have shipped hundreds of bottlesback to the States! My mother had to put adamper on his excitement. Admittedly, withher help we had already crammed our casesfull of Chanel!
You seem to enjoy all the ceremonysurrounding wine more than the wineitself. Am I wrong ?Yes! I tend to be wary of properties that tryand impress you with big showy vaults. I amnot saying it isn’t beautiful, just that themost interesting, most meaningful winesare the ones you don’t see or smell. Andthere’s a good reason for that: they arehidden away in oak barrels!
Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU
Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association
©ALL RIGHTS RESER
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ESSENTIAL TASTING: 90/100
GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL AUTUMN 2011 111
It was the founder of the house, Edmond Théodore Victor
Delaunois, who decided to become a wine grower in the 1920s. His
daughter Anne-Marie and subsequently his grandson André would
carry on the family tradition with the help of André’s two daughters and
son-in-laws, Eric Chanez and Alain Toullec. Alain’s son Anthony is now
a member of the team and embodies the next generation. The Coquard
rotating press pan fitted in 2001 ensures outstanding quality juice
sourced from the 35 plots of vines that form the 7.6-hectare Montagne
de Reims vineyard boasting first growth status. The revamped winery now
houses two 30-hectolitre oak tuns so that some cuvées can be aged in
oak. The house sells a wonderful range of closely-monitored
Champagnes, all from its own production.
90/100 Brut blanc de noirs 1er cru Dame Palmyre 2005:
Pale gold. Profound, focused nose suggestive of stone fruits. The palateshows seductive balance of vinosity and freshness, a finely-etched texture,delicious fruit character and savoury exuberance. A nicely-crafted blanc denoirs that works well as an appetiser or with food.
Champagne André Delaunois
FULL DETAILS: Appellation: Champagne - Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier - Area: 7.6 hectares - Harvest: handpicked
Vinification: Stainless steel tanks - Raising: 15 months in bottles before sale for the ”brut sans année”, 36 months for the vintages
Champagne André Delaunois - 17 rue Roger Salengro - 51500 Rilly La Montagne - France - Tel. +33 (0)3 26 03 42 87 - Fax +33 (0)3 26 03 45 40
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Ayala Brut Majeur 88 88 89Charles Ellner Brut Prestige 1999 87 91 91Charles Ellner Brut Blanc de Blancs 86 88 90Charles Ellner Brut cuvée de réserve 84 90 91Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve 90 85 93Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve 90 86 93Charles Heidsieck Blanc 98 90 95des Millenaires 1995Charles Heidsieck Vintage 2000 92 88 90Drappier Grande Sendree 2002 92 92 88Drappier Brut Carte d'Or 86 88 90Gosset Extra Brut Celebris 1998 98 96 92Gosset Grand Rose Brut 94 90 91Louis Roederer Brut Premier 90 90 91Louis Roederer Brut Cristal 2004 99 97 93Louis Roederer Brut 2004 94 90 90Piper-Heidsieck Brut 87 89 91Beaumont des Crayères 85 n/a 91Brut Grande RéserveBeaumont des Crayères 88 n/a 91Brut Nostalgie 1999Henriot Brut Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1996 95 92 97Henriot Brut Souverain 88 87 90Henriot Brut blanc de blancs 89 89 89Champagne J. de Telmont Brut 85 n/a 89Grande RéserveJacquart Brut rosé Mosaïque 88 n/a 92Jacquart Brut de Nominée 93 n/a 91Maurice Vesselle Brut grand cru 87 n/a 92Cuvée RéservéePalmer & Co Brut 86 n/a 83Bollinger Brut rosé 93 91 91
RECOMMENDED WINES
GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 113
For a comprehensive overview of some great wines of Champagne, compareour tasting notes with those of our well-known American competitors.*
*www.gilbertgaillard.com , *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com
GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E
n/a = not available
WINE SCORES
95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir
meets exceptional winemaking expertise
90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,
complexity and remarkable winemaking
85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which
we enjoyed for its typicity and character
80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,
structure and neatness for
a pleasurable wine drinking experience
75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable
70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable
65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible
50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale
Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in
our publications.
Continued on page 114
114 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011
RECOMMENDED WINES
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EDITORIAL DIRECTORS: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard
EDITOR IN CHIEF: Sylvain Patard
TASTING COMMITTEE: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard,Sylvain Patard, Olivier Delorme and James Turnbull
REDACTION: Michèle Huyard
CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE: Mark Andrew, Richard Craig,Nicolle Croft, Hubrecht Djuiker, Louise Hurren, Thomas Magnani, Jean Natoli, Jamal Rayyis,
Frank Rousseau, Philippe Roux, Delphine Veissière,Philippe Verrier, Christelle Zamora
TRANSLATION: Elise Bradbury, Sharon Nagel
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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with acapital of 35,500 euros • Head office: 7 Parc des Fontenelles,78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorialdirector: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: third quarter 2011• Joint consultative committee: 0612 K 90504 • ISSN 2110-6762
Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any formis expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articlesare given for information only and have no publicity purpose.
CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE
Page 15Champagne Guy Tixier+33 (0)3 26 03 42 [email protected]
Champagne Jean-Michel Pelletier+33 (0)3 26 52 65 [email protected]
Champagne Jean Vesselle+33 (0)3 26 57 01 [email protected]
Pages 28 to 41Domaine Philippe Leclerc+33 (0)3 80 34 30 [email protected]
Domaine Alain Geoffroy+33 (0)3 86 42 43 [email protected]
Domaine Jean-Max Roger+33 (0)2 48 54 32 [email protected]
Domaine Henri Rebourseau+33 (0)3 80 51 88 [email protected]
Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair+33 (0)3 80 52 21 [email protected]
Domaine Guy Bocard+33 (0)3 80 21 26 [email protected]
Domaine de la Paleine+33 (0)2 41 52 21 [email protected]
Domaine de l'Olivette+33 (0)4 94 98 58 [email protected]
Domaine Nudant Jean-René+33 (0)3 80 26 40 [email protected]
Domaine de la Vougeraie+33 (0)3 80 62 48 [email protected]
Domaine Alain Patriarche+33 (0)3 80 21 24 [email protected]
Château de Viella+33 (0)5 62 69 75 [email protected]
Domaine Jean Collet & fils+33 (0)3 86 42 11 [email protected]
Garnier et Fils+33 (0)3 86 47 42 [email protected]
Château de Santenay+33 (0)3 80 20 61 [email protected]
Page 53Cave de Turckheim+33 (0)3 89 30 23 [email protected]
Oedoria+33 (0)4 74 71 48 [email protected]
Dumange Luc+33 (0)2 47 52 61 [email protected]
Page 59Bernard Boutinet+33 (0)5 45 80 86 [email protected]
Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée 94 90 94Bonnaire Brut blanc de blancs grand cru 88 88 n/aDeutz Brut Classic 90 90 90Deutz Brut Cuvée William Deutz 1999 96 90 n/aA. R. Lenoble Brut blanc de blancs grand cru L'Epurée 88 90 n/aA. R. Lenoble Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Les Aventures 94 91 92Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix 90 88 n/aG.H. Mumm & cie Brut Cordon Rouge 87 87 90G.H. Mumm & cie Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Mumm de Cramant 93 89 91Duval-Leroy Brut rosé 89 88 90Duval-Leroy Brut 85 88 93Henri Goutorbe Brut grand cru Spécial Club 2002 90 90 92Henri Goutorbe Brut 1er cru Cuvée Prestige 87 89 90Huré frères Brut Sélection - L'Instantannée 2004 87 90 n/aKrug Brut Grande Cuvée 98 90 96Krug 1998 100 94 96Lancelot-Royer Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Cuvée des Chevaliers 87 91 89Laurent-Perrier Brut 87 90 90Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial 86 86 90Dom Pérignon Brut Oenothèque 1996 95 97 n/aNicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière 87 87 89Nicolas Feuillatte Brut 86 87 n/aPierre Moncuit Brut Pierre Moncuit - Delos 89 91 91Paul Déthune Brut blanc de noirs grand cru 89 88 n/aPaul Déthune Brut grand cru 88 89 n/aPaul Déthune Brut grand cru Cuvée Prestige Princesse des Thunes 91 90 n/aPerrier-Jouët Grand Brut 86 87 91Perrier-Jouët Brut Blason rosé 90 87 92Pierre Peters Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Cuvée de Réserve 90 92 89Pierre Peters Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Les Chétillons 2002 93 95 94Pommery Brut Royal 85 88 89Sadi Malot Brut blanc de blancs 1er cru Vieille Réserve 87 88 n/aTaittinger Brut Prestige Rosé 86 92 90Vazart Coquart & fils Brut blanc de blancs grand cru Réserve 85 89 91
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