gilbert & gaillard wine magazine - winter 2011 issue

Contents

CONTENTS

COLUMNS

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINTER 2011 3

11-12LONDON LIFE

13-15NEWS

68-69FAMILY BUSINESS

• The Davies Family/

Schramsberg Vineyards

70-82QUALITY FACTORS

• Art-house sparkling wines,

Italian style

96-98LIVE FROM SPAIN

100-101 WINE AND FOOD

• Cod and truffle

106-107WINE QUOTATIONS

• The charm and magic of

vintage wines

108-110 STARS AND WINE

• Antonio Banderas

& Charlize Theron

112-114 RECOMMENDED WINES

GILBERT & GAILLARD

THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE

SUBSCRIPTIONS2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 €

SEE PAGE 79

COVER © ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

GILBERT & GAILLARD

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SPRING 2012

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60-61LA SCENE

• Lou on Vine -

Hollywood Terroir

4 GILBERT & GAILLARD WINTER 2011

CONTENTS

ContentsREPORTS

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64

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THIS MAGAZINEIS PRINTED ON RECYCLABLE

PAPER

42-47 REGION• The New Cru Bourgeois The Renaissance or Demise ofMedoc’s historical classification

48-59QUALITY FACTORS• The amazingly bountifulRoussillon

• Bubble Nation:

Sparkling Wine in America

62-66 TRAVEL• On the wine trailin Kentucky

83-95 REGION• Amarone, an inimitable vin de terroir

• Castilla y León: quality in three colours

102-105 EXPORT• Winelands of South Africa today

16-35 COVER STORY

• Champagne is universal!

• Champagne profiles

• Rated wines 90/100 and more

36-41QUALITY FACTORS

• Alsace Grands Crus, where the

terroir shines through

10th edit ion20, 21 and 22 February 2012

��Montpel l ier - France

Reserved for professionals

www.vinisud.com

The International Exhibitionof Mediterranean Wines and Spirits

Don't miss out!

Weare delighted to present the 2012 Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins. All the

wines featured have been tasted using the same protocol, ensuring

a rigorous, impartial selection. The samples sent by producers are blind

tasted by Gilbert & Gaillard and their team in the quiet seclusion of a tasting room. A 100

point scale is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as

no more than 10-15 samples are tasted per session to maintain fair judgement and analysis.

7,000 wines have been selected, along with commentaries, tasting notes and

recommendations on how to serve them. All the classed growths and most prestigious

wines are featured, but there are also many smaller, lesser-known wine growers to

discover too. Each wine growing region is represented, together with a detailed map and every appellation is closely analysed,

with commentaries. The Gilbert & Gaillard Guide des Vins is the essential guide to discovering european wines.

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2012 NEWFRENCH EDITION

FRANÇOIS GILBERT


Selling 330 million bottles per year, Champagne

remains the best-selling sparkling wine in the world. It

continues to comfortably outstrip Spanish Cava, whose

sales (240 million bottles in 2010) are nonetheless

increasing more rapidly. These sparkling wines all share

one characteristic that certainly contributes to their

success: they are usually linked to festive

celebrations. Almost one out of two bottles of

Champagne are enjoyed between September and

December, mainly during the holiday season.

In this issue, we will take you on a far-ranging journey to

discover the world of sparkling wine. First stop,

Champagne, with our list of the top Champagnes we

tasted in 2011 (pages 16–35), along with accounts from

people involved in different markets, as well as

presentations of both prestigious and lesser-known

Champagne houses. We will also take you to Italy, where

the quality and diversity of the Proseccos and

Franciacortas impressed us. Of course, the journey

wouldn’t be complete without an overview of California’s

sparkling wines, which also hold some excellent surprises

in store for you.

Fine sparkling wines are doing well, and we’re very happy

about that, since competition is the best incentive for

improving quality. There’s a good bet that whatever the

economic climate, effervescent wines have a sparkling

future in front of them.

François GilbertEditorial director

www.gilbertgaillard.com

Champagne,Prosecco,Franciacorta:sparkling winesare doing fine!

PHILIPPE GAILLARD


When it comes to wine classification, France

is the master. The French invented the system of

appellations d’origine contrôlées, of which today there are

365 for wines and spirits, plus around 50 for cheeses, and

40 for fruits, vegetables and cooking oils. France was also

the first, in the 19th century, to introduce the concept of

Cru Classé.

The Wine Classification of 1855 concerned the wines of

Médoc and Sauternes, that of 1953 classified the wines of

Graves, that of 1955 the Crus of Saint-Emilion, and so on.

Of course, Bordeaux is where the system began and where

it has reached the apex of complexity. Some of these

classifications have stood the test of time without much

incident (this is the case for the 1855 classification, which

remains almost unchanged since it was created, despite

the upheavals that have occurred in the surface area of the

estates). Others have been subject to a stormier ride, like

the classification of Saint-Emilion, for which each ten-

year review gives rise to interminable legal battles, or the

classification of the Crus Bourgeois of Médoc, which, after

some eventful twists and turns, is rising from the ashes

(see our article on pages 42-47).

Because these classifications can engender heated debate –

another French specialty! – we strive to supply buyers

with reliable, up-to-date information each year via the

ideal medium of our tasting notes. In this way, Gilbert &

Gaillard is there to help you make informed decisions.

Philippe GaillardEditorial director


Renewedinterest inBordeaux’sCru Bourgeois


SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARDwww.gilbertgaillard.com

Wine has always been an integral part of

Spanish culture but in recent times it seems to be

enjoying a revival, harking back to its once glorious past.

The seductively powerful gems that are Sherry and its

range of styles (Manzanilla, fino, amontillado, oloroso,

palo cortado, pedro ximenez) are evidence of this, as is

the strength of the Rioja brand; it is the only still wine

appellation in the world with over 350 million bottles

produced annually, labelled under a single name.

Additionally, countless appellations are experimenting

with new vine management and wine making techniques

and wine makers constantly strive to improve the quality

of their wines. All this has combined to increase the

popularity of Spanish wines in the leading consumer

countries, particularly the United States, the United

Kingdom and many European countries.

The resurgence of Spain’s wine industry has also brought

into question the supremacy of tempranillo, the nation’s

flagship varietal. Even though it remains the most widely-

planted, many other grapes are offering greater variety:

Monastrell along the Mediterranean coast, Garnacha in

Aragon, Bobal in Utiel Requena and Albarino in Galicia,

to name a few. Castilla Leon, another prominent Spanish

wine region that we are featuring in this issue (see pages

89-95), also offers a phenomenal choice, from the white

Verdejo grape in Rueda to the red Mencia varietal in

Bierzo that can look forward to an excellent future.

The time is right to rediscover Spanish wines – never in

their history have they offered such quality and diversity

with such an affordable price tag.

Sylvain PatardEditor in chief

Gilbert & Gaillard Spain:Diego Bonnel – [email protected]

Spain,wine’s othermajorhomeland

LONDON LIFE


When the chilly winter months set in, there’s nothing quite like theambiance of a cosy pub - especially if it serves good food and has agreat wine list. While the last decade has witnessed a revolution inthe standard of “gastro-pub” food, it is remarkable how far theirwine lists have lagged behind. Things are starting to change for thebetter though, and if you know where to look, there aresome great pubs that have it all.

Warm winter bolt-holes

FAVOURITE OF THE WINE TRADE

Princess Victoria217 Uxbridge RoadLondon W12 9DH Tel. +44 (0)208 749 5886www.princessvictoria.co.uk

When the Princess Victoria first opened,it attracted a wave of publicity for itsincredible wine list. Every time I pop inthere, it is full of wine industry colleaguesenjoying a glass of something you would

Mark Andrew

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Pr incess Victor ia

Pr incess Victor ia

never expect to see in such traditionalpub surroundings. The fact that the foodmatches up to the wine list makes theplace even more exciting, as does thebeautiful renovation job they have doneon the gorgeous venue - a Gin house thatdates back to 1829.

My last visit there was for a deliciousSunday roast beef dinner with friends,which we washed down with an interestingSt Laurent from Austrian ace GerhardPittnauer (£40) and the rich and meatyLa Falaise from Château de la Negly inLanguedoc’s La Clape (£40). This is abrave concept for a pub in London’sShepherd’s Bush district, but the wine listis daring, full of quality and offers excellentvalue for money.

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LONDON LIFE

THE BEST PUB FOOD

IN LONDON

Harwood Arms27 Walham GroveLondon SW6 1QRTel. +44 (0)207 386 1847www.harwoodarms.com

If you are looking for a pub that offerstop notch modern British cuisine as wellas a superb wine list then it is difficult tosee past the Harwood Arms. The kitchenhere has a Michelin Star, which is no surprisewhen you consider that Head Chef BarryFitzgerald works closely alongside theLedbury’s Brett Graham (one ofLondon’s finest chefs and part owner ofthe Harwood) to ensure that the ingredientsand the execution are of the higheststandards.

I love game, so a visit to the HarwoodArms is always a treat because they cooksome of the finest rabbit and venison inthe city. Their wine list was recently votedFine Dining Pub Wine List of the Year, soafter ordering a grilled haunch of roe deerI was all set to match it with the 2007 NuitsSt Georges from Patrice Rion (£80). Afterlooking a little further down the listthough, I spotted the 2009 Morgon fromrising star Julien Sunier, a wine that is richand gamey but with bright, ripe red fruitthat complemented the juniper berries inthe sauce (and, at just £46, a bargain). Thisis a superb restaurant in a relaxed, pubsetting and the wine list is a joy. A mustvisit next time you are in London.

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The Gun

GREAT FOOD AND

WINE IN THE DOCKLANDS

The Gun 27 Coldharbour London E14 9NS Tel. +44 (0)207 515 5222www.thegundocklands.com

For many people travelling to London,the Docklands area is a sea of conferencecentres, offices and faceless chainrestaurants, without a great deal tokeep you interested once the workingday is done. That’s what I thought too,until a recent visit to The Gun, awonderful pub just a stone's throwfrom Canary Wharf.

As soon as I caught sight of the rib ofLonghorn beef for two with snails,Bearnaise sauce and chips, I knew I wasin for a treat. Something robust wasneeded to partner it and I settled on the2004 Chateau Bataillay (£72), althoughI must confess to coveting the 2004Vosne-Romanée by René Engel (£72.50).Its not often that you have such adilemma when ordering a bottle of redin a pub! The food was excellent and theatmosphere was warm and welcoming.

Harwood Arms

Harwood Arms

The Gun

A “Hidden Gem” in Beechworth Australia

In addition to the land, on offer is a thoughtfully considered and carefullymeasured master plan with a substantial portion of the external workscompleted. Already planted is a rich tapestry of olive groves, a red oakforest, chestnut trees, lavender, rosemary, bay laurel and poplars for whitetruffle production. A feature of the landscaping activity are the sevenmagnificent terraces. There is a spring fed creek along the east boundaryand perfectly disposed sites for viticultural activity such as Pinot Noir &Nebbiolo grapes.

The project comes with all planning and building permits approved for aninspired private dwelling ideal for entertaining, relaxing and renewal, beingable to take in the nature rhythms of dawn and dusk and a universe of stars.Design includes a tower, roof terrace, an internal courtyard of classical

proportions, 3 bedrooms, an underground cellar suitable for boutiquecommercial pursuit and produce and equipment storage. The base workscompleted for the residence include cut and fill for basement slab andreinforcement for vertical walls.

This amazing property bordered by indigenous forests, positioned within3 kilometres of the historic town centre, will be attractive to the personwanting to further express their interests and passions in wine and food inthe cool climate of the southern hemisphere.

For further information please email and include your contact number to: [email protected]

Finally a once in a lifetime opportunity to purchase 40 acres offertile organically cultivated land with picturesque views fromall directions located in the colourful and significant epicureanzone, at the foothills of the Victorian Alps.

NEWS


PURE PLEASUREThat’s the result of combining two exceptional products:Charles Heidsieck 1995 Blanc des Millénaires Champagne andthe legendary Petrossian caviar. With its assertive character,Imperial Alverta® caviar pairs superbly with the finesse, generosityand elegance of the remarkable 1995 vintage from CharlesHeidsieck, a Champagne that enjoys exceptional longevity. Totreat oneself to this incomparable union is simply to suspendthe inexorable march of time for a moment - a luxury thatshouldn’t be passed up.Petrossian Alverta® Caviar (125 g) and Charles HeidsieckBlanc des Millénaires 1995 giftbox: 390 eurosAvailable at www.petrossian.fr or from the Petrossianshop at 18 Boulevard de Latour Maubourg or thePublicis Drugstore (Paris)


NEWS

THE BOTTLEHAS CHANGED,BUT THE LEGENDREMAINSJack Daniel’s has changed the shape

of its Old No. 7 bottle for a more

contemporary, masculine look that

accentuates its ‘premium’ aspect. The

new bottle has cleaner, straighter

lines and square shoulders.

Although its look has changed,

its taste hasn’t. This new bottle

honours the company motto,

‘Every day we make it, we’ll make it

the best we can.’*

www.jackdaniels.com

VINTAGE WINES:TRY THEM INMAGNUMS!In still wines, as with Champagne,when it comes to older vintages,we too often neglect magnums. Yet this 150 cl-bottle is much better for aging thanthe traditional 75 cl-bottle. A recent tasting in Reims at the Palmer Champagnehouse was further proof of this. It must be said that all the optimal conditions werepresent in this case. These superb bottles, which hadn’t left the cellar since the prisede mousse, had just been disgorged, unleashing their fully developed aromas,patiently acquired during aging on the lees, along with a brazen freshness.

We tasted 12 vintages, mainly Blancs de Blancs, ranging from 2003 to 1961. Amongthese, five particularly retained our attention:

Blanc de Blancs 2002: A vintage displaying superb vivacity, delicate bubbles and agood balance between richness and freshness.

Blanc de Blancs 1998: A model of precision, vivacity and clarity. The result isethereal and fruity, with a brazen youthfulness.

Blanc de Blancs 1996: An excellent wine that is round, complex and distinct, evok-ing dried exotic fruit supported by this vintage’s sublime freshness.

Blanc de Blancs 1985: Opens with mineral, iodine notes that then give way to acreamy character. The magnificently balanced palate is delicate, with both breadthand length. A fantastic Champagne.

Château Taffard deBlaignan 2005 (Magnum)

Médoc A.C.

Sylviane MARTINCAVAVIN

ILLKIRCH GRAFFENSTADEN

201, Route de Lyon67400 ILLKIRCH GRAFFENSTADEN

Tel. +33 (0)3 88 67 41 76

Marionnet -Touraine gamay 2010

Touraine A.C.

Guillaume VERDESCAVAVIN BAIN DE BRETAGNE

2, Place Saint-Martin35470 BAIN DE BRETAGNE Tel. +33 (0)2 99 47 44 09

Selection Winter 2011

In every issue, seewhich winemakers arethe gold medal winners

étienne BOIVINFranchise Development Manager

23.90 €*

6.30 €*

54.90 €*

* Retail price including sales tax

Champagne GossetGrande Réserve

Champagne

Fabrice QUIBLIER

CAVAVIN VOIRON

25 rue Rose Sage

38500 VOIRON

Tel. +33 (0)4 76 93 13 50

Baron de Brane 2008Margaux A.C.

Sandrine et Jean-YvesLECOMTE

CAVAVIN BEAUVAIS

9, rue Louvet60000 BEAUVAIS

Tel. +33 (0)3 44 45 37 7724.90 €*

NEWS


FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE

CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2006 Deep, very slightly evolved red. Ripefruity nose showing predominant redfruits (strawberry, redcurrant). A mix offreshness, power and aromatic expres-sion on the palate. A very full winewhere fruit melds with spicy tones on the finish.

89/100

FRENCH REFINEMENTThe Ritual Box by G.H. MUMM is an ultra-limited edition designer item (only 10 are available around the world). Dedicated to theart of tasting Champagne, on first appearance it is a simple yet mysterious cube, elegantly wrapped in red, that when opened revealsfive modular units. Each of these contains the required accessories to create a sophisticated setting for tasting Champagne.The Ritual Box can be arranged in a variety of ways and above all can be used indoors or outdoors. Among other accessories,it contains a magnum of Cordon Rouge accompanied by six Champagne flutes.

RITUAL BOX BY G.H. MUMM• 6 Guy Degrenne forks• 6 Guy Degrenne appetizer spoons• 2 Siléa snack plates• 6 Siléa porcelain verrines • 2 Villeroy & Boch candlesticks and 2 red candles • 1 JBL MP3 speaker• 2 red leather cushionsOnly 10 Ritual Boxes available worldwideOnly 1 on sale in France / 5,000 euros (tax inclusive)Available by order: Tel. +33 (0)1 49 81 52 20

Magnums available for sale (tax-inclusive prices):

Magnum Brut: 52 euros

Magnum Rosé: 60 euros

Magnum Blanc de Blancs 1999: 71 euros

Magnum Brut Millésimé 1998: 71 euros

Magnums Blanc de Blancs 1996: 90 euros

Magnum Brut 1985: 120 euros

Magnum Blanc de Blancs 1985: 167 euros

Champagne Palmer: +33 (0)3 26 07 35 07

www.champagne-palmer.fr

Gilbert & Gaillard Selection

Brut 1961: As developed as one would expect, with a bouquetof dried fig and truffle and a creamy texture, all balanced withfreshness. Although it has decreased in volume and strength, itcaptivates with its finesse and complexity.

The good news is that Palmer offers some of the magnumsfrom its cellar for sale on demand. Discover them withoutmoderation.


COVER STORY

Champagne is universal!As the famous Christmas trees have been lit in Trafalgar Square inLondon and Times Square in New York City for the 2011 festiveseason, Champagne sales and celebrations have also reignited inthe US and the UK.

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Champagne demand reflects consumer confidence

and the state of the economy. If recent trends contin-

ue, export sales of Champagne should continue the

momentum that had been building prior to 2008. Champagne is

unique, exclusive and symbolic, leading all sparkling wines of the

world by setting and protecting the highest standards of quality

and consistency. Frédéric Rouzaud, CEO of Champagne Louis

Roederer, says that “the success of Champagne on export markets,

despite the lower prices of sparkling wines, is linked to a long

tradition of coherent and intelligent promotion, together with the

CHAMPAGNE'S SUCCESS OVERSEAS IS LINKED TO A

LONG TRADITION OF PROMOTION

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mythic strength of the appellation and the level of quality of the

wine preserved by the ‘great names’.”

Speaking at the Second International Sparkling Wine Symposium

in the UK in November 2011, Chris Brook-Carter, publisher of

Just-drinks.com said that while there is demand for sparkling

wines, “they lack the strong international identity of Champagne

brands (...) and still face challenges to equal the image of

Champagne. Despite an unexpected boost from the global

financial crisis, the sparkling wine niche is encroaching on everyday

spirits and beer rather than on Champagne market share.”

Elisabeth Drysdale of the Champagne Information Centre in

Australia says that while domestic sparkling wines represent 75%

of sales, Champagne is outperforming imported sparkling wines

at over 50%. Like the US and the UK, “Australia is a wine making

country that makes very good sparkling wines, but they are not

Champagne. I believe Australians are becoming more educated

about Champagne and understand the difference between

sparkling and Champagne. Each has their own markets and

market accordingly.”

Françoise Peretti, President of the UK Champagne Bureau, says that

“cheaper is the word! The consumers understand price brackets.

Apart from seasonal promotions, Champagne is a very traditional

and defined segment, so people may start with sparkling wine and

graduate to more complex, sophisticated Champagne.”

The strong image of Champagne as an exclusive product is driven

by Houses and elevated prices, in line with the belief that luxury

and premium purchasing is a timeless pleasure. Perceived rarity,

craftsmanship and history are linked to the quality of the Houses

that are responsible for 90% of Champagne exports and represent

70% of Champagne sales. Certain family-owned Houses such as

Louis Roederer, Pol Roger and Bollinger own up to 75% of the

vineyards they use, however the majority of Houses only own 10%

of Champagne vineyards.


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While growers own more than 90% of the vineyards, they only

represent 22% of Champagne sales. The recent trend of grower

Champagnes making and bottling under their own name focuses

on terroir and vintage conditions; some growers are joining forces

under collective organisations such as Champagne des Vignerons,

Terre et Vins, Artisans, and Bulles Bio. However, as Peter Liem

from ChampagneGuide.net observes: “In all export markets,

grower Champagnes have a disproportional share of the market

because of very limited, prized stocks which sell out. There are

maybe only fifty very popular growers that represent 1% to 2% of

the already small share of grower Champagnes in export markets.

The statistics do not reflect this recent phenomenon of popularity

that actually survived the crisis better than everyone.”

Chair of Champagne at Reims Business Management School,

Dr Steve Charters MW says that “over the long term Champagne

is consistently the most successful wine region in France.”

Françoise Peretti agrees: “in the UK you need to take a long term

view of why Champagne is successful. Such a unique market for

Champagne, the strongest, leading export for Champagne, sustained

this leadership for many years, and this can’t be explained by

benchmarking against other wines. The relationship between the

Champenoise and the UK is five hundred years old, originating

from aristocrats on both sides in exile in the UK or France, and

drinking habits have been established on this longevity.”

Elisabeth Drysdale says that “the Champenoise have always done

a great job in promoting their wines in Australia, mainly led by

Moët-Hennessy’s investment. Historically our love affair with

Champagne goes back many years, and can be traced to the

19th century.

Thierry Gasco, Chef de Cave at Champagne Pommery says “we

have to know how to offer the best wine adapted to the time

we are in” by making a contemporary blend of long term

consumer involvement, tradition and technology, innovation

HOUSES ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR 90% OF CHAMPAGNE EXPORTS AND REPRESENT 70% OF CHAMPAGNE SALES

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and communication. Gasco adds that “Champagne has to also

be the world reference tomorrow in terms of appellation, thus the

origin will always be perfectly controlled to keep the promise of

terroir, quality and reputation alive in a very competitive world

market that is increasingly sensitive to the notion of origin.”

As the regional brand manager the CIVC has successfully protect-

ed the appellation, with legal intervention if necessary. “We work

hard to promote Champagne and increase protection of the

Champagne name, which is key to the US market,” remarks Sam

Heitner of the CIVC in Washington.

Frédéric Rouzaud declares that “Louis Roederer Champagnes have

a very clear, significant importance outside France as references of

quality and faithfulness to a style. This the result of the very

focused communication that we have carried out for many years

in a world invaded by the values of marketing.”

However, Champagne is no longer exclusively for special occasions

and celebration. It has been successfully marketed as a modern,

independent wine that can accompany each course throughout a

meal. Peretti continues: “There is a very consistent international

environment that benefits Champagne in the UK. The tradition of

drinking Champagne, combined with its international background

and successful restaurant food reputation in the UK is Champagne

consumption at its best. It remains the wine of celebration: if you

are not celebrating, drink Champagne and create the occasion!

The combination of these two elements explains why the UK is

the world's number one export.”

TOP MARQUESThe top ten global brands all grew by volume in 2010, leading

with large marketing budgets and prestigious sponsorships. Moët

& Chandon and Veuve Cliquot are the number one and two

THE CIVC HAS SUCCESSFULLY PROTECTED THE APPELLATION, WITH LEGAL INTERVENTION IF NECESSARY

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Champagne brands in the

world, in the UK, and the US.

Nicolas Feuillatte, Mumm and

Laurent-Perrier complete the

top five global Champagne

brands; with Lanson and

Taittinger in the UK; and

Perrier-Jouët, and Nicolas

Feuillatte in the US, with Piper

Heidsieck moving into the top

three in 2011.

While acknowledging that “traditionally well-known grand marques do very well in

Australia,” Elisabeth Drysdale says that “as consumers are becoming more educated about

Champagne, I have seen more interest in different styles and lesser-known brands.”

CHAMPAGNE EXPORTSOver forty two million bottles of Champagne were exported worldwide in the first six

months of 2011. It is important to note that final figures for 2011 will be not be determined

until 45% of Champagne end of year consumption sales are included.

The United Kingdom retains its number one rank outside France, despite a 6.8% drop in

exports to under 9.4 million bottles. The Houses are in the dominant position, with

volume and value progressing. Non-vintage (80.3%) and rosés (+16.9%) have regained

market share to pre-2008 levels. Prestige Cuvées have slightly higher market share (5.3%)

than Vintage Champagnes (3.3%). Supermarket strength is evident with 38.3% of export

volumes. In the total sparkling wine category, Champagne represents 22.4% volume for

47.7% turnover.

In second place, the US has gained 17.5% in Champagne exports this year to 5.8 million

bottles, showing strong potential for development as consumer confidence has stabilised.

The Houses dominate with 91.8% by volume and 93.5% by value. Non Vintage at 73.1%

is lower than the global average of 83.7%. Over 2.4 million bottles of Rosé have 14.4%

market share by volume and 15.2% by value, while Prestige Cuvées have only 5.1%

volume share.

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2011 JAN-JUNE RANK TOTAL BOTTLES EXPORTED % CHANGE

Global 42,281,731 14,66%

UK 1 9,362,753 -6.8%

USA 2 5,815,753 17.5%

Germany 3 3,673,604 17.5%

Australia 8 1,226,706 23.9%Source: Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne


COVER STORY

In third position, Germany has the same 17.5 percentage increase,

and 3.6 million bottles with the Houses dominating strongly at

92% volume, with Non Vintage increasing in volume and Rosés in

demand over one million bottles.

The top ten continues with Japan, Belgium, Italy, Switzerland and

Australia, each importing over one million bottles, followed by

Spain and the United Arab Emirates. The final three countries

show the highest growth with Australia at 23.9%, Spain 27.8%

and UAE at 40.4%. At number 12, Russia is showing great growth

at 145.1%, re-establishing a long heritage as an original and very

important Champagne market.

According to Françoise Peretti, “Pink keeps growing, getting

stronger, while Non Vintage is the style of choice. Vintage has not

continued to be as popular as pre-recession, so there is a huge

opportunity to explore and educate the consumer. People

understand NV and Prestige Cuvées but not the complexity that

goes with vintage - for example, it has a great role to play in food

matching.”

Detailed figures from 2010 confirm that Non Vintage at 83.9%

represented 73.7% of total exports in value. Rosés accounted for

8.5% of volume exported (10.7% value), with the UK, US and

Germany accounting for 55% of all exported Rosés. Prestige

Cuvées represented 4.8% volume and 15.1% in 2010, with 96.7%

of these figures dominated by a small group of Houses. Vintage

Champagnes only represent 1.8% volume and 2.2% value, and

Demi-Sec 2.1% volume and 2% value. Growers have a higher

export percentage of Vintage Champagnes with 6.1% volume and

8.5% value, compared to only 1.6% volume and 2% value for

House Vintage Champagnes.

CHAMPAGNE PERCEPTIONSFor Frédéric Rouzaud, “the perception of Champagne on foreign

markets is basically influenced by the wine's rich history,

the prestige of the leading houses and the power of its image

(refinement, life style, fashion, luxury) within this general context.

There are obviously some variations in its perception, from one

market to another. In general, Champagne reflects a social status

with the historical exception of UK where it is an institution.”

Champagne is a unique global

reference for consistently high

quality, based on the most

expensive grapes in the world.

Champagne is an appellation

and a trademark that has been

defended with leading marketing

strategies, economic policy and business structure, distinguishing

the offering within many changing markets.

At Champagne Taittinger, “although marketing and commercial

approaches are global, the commercial and marketing

implementation are 100% local, depending on the level of

activity and recognition of the brand in each country, and on

the wishes and personalities of our partners,” says Clovis

Taittinger. “Each of the 140 Taittinger agents in the world adds

their personality to the brand!”

Amanda Regan

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2010 RANK GLOBAL EXPORTS HOUSES HOUSES GROWERS GROWERS CO-OPS CO-OPS

JAN-DEC TOTAL BOTTLES TOTAL BOTTLES SHARE BOTTLES SHARE BOTTLES SHARE

UK 1 35,488,401 29,698,133 83.7% 491,000 1.4% 5,380,000 14.9%

USA 2 16,934,242 15,552,850 91.8% 634,425 3.7% 674,474 4%

Germany 3 13,076,153 12,029,286 92% 34,556 2.6% 703,311 5.4%

Australia 9 3,687,140 3,541,673 96.1% 81,336 2.2% 58,287 1.6%

Source: Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne

COVER STORY


After 27 years at Gosset, Cellar Master Jean-Pierre Mareigner is

referred to as the “Haute Couture” creator. The house style is

elegant, dryand fresh with a fine balance and full bodied

complexity, a crisp start, and long lasting. Only the first press is

used, with no malolactic fermentation, to retain natural freshness

and graceful ageing. Partial fermentation in oak barrels gives a

subtle wood note. Still wines are vinified separately until

blending. Grande Réserve and Grand Rosé are kept sur latte for

four years, with time varying for Célébris Grand Millésime, prior

to hand riddling and traditional disgorging. Because the wines can

stand on their own without added sugar, the dosages are relatively

light with extra brut styles for the Célébris Vintage, Célébris Blanc

de Blancs (a multi-vintage blend) and Célébris Rosé. The

Champagnes rest for three to twelve months prior to release. One

million bottles annually are distributed in eighty countries,

exports representing 60% and Rosé 12% of sales.

ENVIRONMENTALLY SUSTAINABLENew packaging of the New Antique Range is environmentally sus-

tainable. Different coloured traditional neck labels and gold cap

are made with non-polluting colours. “Imprim Vert” labels are

printer-friendly with no hazardous or toxic or liquid waste

products, and completely recyclable, and “Green Line” Caps by

Sparflew use solvent-free colours, biodegradable acrylic and a

glue-free complex.

GASTRONOMIC FOCUSGosset has a gastronomic focus matching food and wine flavours

and aromas. Each year Gosset sponsors the Trophée Gosset

Célébris to select the best restaurant Champagne wine list in each

region of France.

Champagne profilesTo illustrate the wide range of Champagne we have chosen to present

six brands with different styles and stories. This unique wine has many

things to tell.

CHAMPAGNE GOSSET

FRANCE'S OLDEST CHAMPAGNE HOUSE Founded in 1584 in Aÿ when wines were still red,

Gosset is the oldest registered house in

Champagne. Some 410 years and fifteen generations

later, the house came under Cointreau management

in 1994.

In 2009, on its 425th anniversary, Gosset moved to a 19th centu-

ry building in Epernay with 1.5 kilometres of underground cellars

and 2.5 million bottle storage capacity. The distinctive original

18th century bottles of Jean Gosset are still used, and a Charter of

Excellence guarantees outstanding quality commitment to values

and traditions. Most Chardonnay is rated above 95% on the Cru

scale from Chouilly, le Mesnil, Cramant and Avize, and Pinot Noir

from Bouzy, Aÿ, Verzenay and Ambonnay.

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to gain expressive complexity. The Rosé is 34% Chardonnay and

66% Pinot Noir, with 30% reserve wines. Vintage Bruts are

composed of 48% Chardonnay and 52% Pinot Noir, and

consistently offer exceptional value for money.

CHANTIERSPrestige Cuvée des Enchanteleurs was created in 1949, uniquely

from Grands Crus. Des Enchanteleurs was named after the

aristocratic exercise called “chantiers” where the cavistes selected

and composed from the cream of the crop to create their own

cuvée. This Henriot Prestige Cuvée des Enchanteleurs has an elegant

structure; its citrus notes make for a lively, fresh, mineral and

delicate Champagne.

CHAMPAGNE LE BRUN DE NEUVILLE

PRINCES OF CHARDONNAYLe Brun de Neuville has a history dating back 150

years through the Le Brun family line. In 1963, 30

independent growers created the cooperative

originally called the “Crayere”. Over 50, this has

grown to 150 growers who share and work together

today. Built on the mid-slope amongst the vineyards

at Béthon in southern Champagne, Le Brun de

Neuville boasts a large reception room that can

welcome two hundred guests, with panoramic views

of the vineyards.

The society has a small structure of fifteen people, managed by

Chefs de Cave Antony Caen and Gilles Balthazar. Two million

bottles lie 18 metres below in the underground cellars where Brut

Selection Champagnes rest for a minimum of three years, and the

Vintage Champagnes for at least five years. Le Brun de Neuville

shares 152 hectares around Sézanne in the south of Côte des

Blancs; 80% of the grapes are Chardonnay.

NEW PACKAGINGFollowing sustainable production, new labels are 50% recyclable,

sourced from well-managed forests. To reduce packaging, clients


COVER STORY

CHAMPAGNE HENRIOT

VERVE AND SOUVERAIN“Veuve Henriot Ainé” was created by the widow of

Nicolas Henriot in 1808. Celebrating its bicentenary in

2008, Henriot has been an independent Champagne

house for seven generations.

In 1850 Henriot became supplier to the Dutch court. The

following year, grandson Ernest Henriot founded Champagne

Charles Heidsieck with his brother-in-law Charles-Camille

Heidsieck, however Ernest returned to the Henriot family house in

1875 under the name Henriot & Cie. Ernest purchased vineyards

in the Côte des Blancs, creating the Chardonnay-driven style of

the House giving finesse, pure fruits and fresh citrus. A chart of

quality for the growers is a guarantee for purchased grapes.

After brief ownership by LVMH from 1987 to 1994, the house is

again under family control, run by Joseph Henriot. A portfolio has

been created adding William Fèvre in Chablis and Bouchard Père

et Fils in Beaune to the Champagne house. Cellar Master Laurent

Fresnet continues to make 1,500,000 bottles in the Henriot style,

with 200,000 reserve wines to draw on. The first fermentation is

always in stainless steel tanks to retain elegance and freshness.

Each year Brut Souverain aims to reproduce the same style and

identical taste, made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir.

Souverain Blanc de Blancs brut is aged for four to five years on lees

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COVER STORY


Coopérative de Riceys, to produce the famous Rosé

des Riceys and still red wines. From 1923 they started

selling Champagne to a predominantly local market,

Paris, northern France and Belgium. Success came

with modernisation in the 1960s, when the brand

Marquis de Pomereuil was created, after the name of

an 18th century lord from Riceys.

2012 marks the 90th anniversary of the creation of the house, to

be celebrated with the presentation of a special new vintage cuvée

Blancs de Noirs 2008. The cave will be open on 21 July 2012 for

the celebration. Other special events will be announced in Spring.

Riceys is a special terroir in the Côte de Bar, near the border with

Burgundy, and unique in France with three appellations in the village.

Champagne Marquis de Pomereuil produces quality cuvées from

the three appellations from Riceys: Champagne, Coteaux

Champenois and Rosé des Riceys.

Directed by Christian

Jojot, the cave has

installed modern

presses and wine-

making equipment

as well as a tasting

room to welcome vis-

itors and clients. 95

hectares of vines are grown with great respect for the principles of

“lutte raisonnée” (minimum intervention), by 55 passionate

growers.

TRILOGY OF STYLESChampagne, Rosé des Riceys, and Coteaux Champenoise. The

Champagnes range in style from classic bruts blended with the

three varieties, to Brut cuvée Spéciale (aged for a minimum of

three years), Vintage Blanc de Blancs, Brut Rosé (blended from the

three varieties), and Brut Rosé Tradition 100% Pinot Noir, made

after a short maceration. Rosé des Riceys is a gastronomic wine

appreciated with food, always vintaged, and made after a brief

maceration of Pinot Noir. Coteau Champenois is an exceptional

wine appreciated by gourmets, made from selected old Pinot

Noir vines.

are given the choice of whether they wish to purchase Prestige

Cuvées in individual boxes.

LADY DE N AND LE BRUN DE NEUVILLEThe Lady de N range consists of Lady de N Chardonnay Brut, Lady

de N Clovis Brut (made of 60% Pinot Noir and 40%

Chardonnay), the Lady de N Aged in Oak Brut, and the soon-

to-be released Lady de N Rosé Brut.

The Le Brun de Neuville range consists of Cuvée Chardonnay Brut

Blanc de Blancs, Cuvée Selection Brut Non Vintage (made of Pinot

Noir and Chardonnay), Cuvée Tendre Rosé Brut, and Cuvée

Authentique Brut made of Chardonnay (65%) and Pinot Noir

(30%), with 5% oak aged.

CHAMPAGNE MARQUIS DE POMEREUIL

A STYLE FOR EVERY FESTIVE MOMENTIn 1922, 14 vignerons came together to create one of

the oldest cooperatives in Champagne, the Caves

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Cuvée Prestige Millésimé is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir

from low-yielding old vines with the best exposure on mid-slopes.

Concentration comes from a minimum three years ageing in

cellars for roundness, balance and elegance. Privilege des

Moines is blended from 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir;

this cuvée is vinified for one year in oak with lees stirring. With

its fine and complex nose, vanilla and smoky notes, it is round,

vinous and balanced with fresh fruits; this is a champagne for

the dining table.

CHAMPAGNE MICHEL GONET

CÔTE DES BLANCS GRAND CRUFounded in1802 by Charles Gonet, this seventh

generation Champagne house won its first prize at

the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900. Michel

Gonet expanded and upgraded his Champagne

house in Avize in 1973, co-managed today with his

daughter Sophie. The house

also offers five rooms for bed

and breakfast.

Owning an extraordinary 40 hectares

grown predominantly on Grand

Crus chalk-based vineyards on the Côte de Blancs around Avize

and le Mesnil sur Oger, the Côte de Sezanne, and the special

island of Chardonnay slopes of Montgeaux, and further south

into the Aube for Pinot Noir, the potential of this house is

immense. The grapes are predominantly Chardonnay (80%); the

remainder is Pinot Noir.

Production is 100% manual in the vineyards, with great care taken

during pressing. Cellar Master Christophe Rambaud controls

20,000 hectolitres and 1,200 barriques, producing 100,000 bottles

per year. Most wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks, and

older wines are vinified in oak, followed always by malolactic

fermentation and a generally low dosage. Michel Gonet

Champagnes are disgorged to order, to guarantee freshness and

quality.

Amanda Regan

Cuvée des Fondateurs 2000 pays hommage to the ancestral know-

how of the founders of the Cave Marquis de Pomereuil. Made

from a rare blend in the region of two-thirds Chardonnay and

only one third Pinot Noir, the style is also available in a non-

vintage version.

CHAMPAGNE J.M. GOBILLARD

IN THE BIRTHPLACE OF CHAMPAGNELocated in the famous village of Hautvillers, the

Champagne J.M. Gobillard tasting rooms are

situated directly in front of the Abbey Dom Pérignon.

The expanding family business was established in

1945, with the winemaking facilities now based in the

nearby village of Dizy. Thierry Gobillard is in charge of

the 250,000 bottles produced annually, managing 25

hectares of mostly premier cru in Hautvillers, plus

100 hectares of contracted

grapes; he buys 30% of his

grapes from growers.

In the carved chalk cellars, vintage

Champagnes are hand-riddled, while

non-vintage Champagnes are turned by gyropalettes. Some wines

are vinified in oak casks. Brut Tradition is made from equal blends

of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, plus 30% reserve

wines to give regularity of taste and quality. Brut Rosé is equal

thirds Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with two years

ageing in cellars for finesse, elegance and balance, and rich vinous

aromas. Brut Blanc de Blanc is 100% Chardonnay, mostly from

the village of Hautvillers, with at least three years ageing in cask,

for freshness, finesse and elegance. Blanc de Noirs is a textured,

vinous table wine with body and power, but also finesse. Premier

Cru Brut Grande Réserve is 50% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir and

35% Pinot Meunier, with 30% reserve wines; it is aged for three

years. The grapes are from Hautvillers Premiers Crus, and also from

Cumières and Dizy, for power and elegance. Cuvée Prestige Rosé is

composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, following a

rigorous selection of grapes (the same criteria as Millésime Brut).

The colour comes from maceration on skins, giving an expressive

nose of fresh, pronounced red fruits.


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RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE


OUR PICKS

100/100 Champagne Bollinger Extra Brut R.D. 1999 125,00 €

100/100 Champagne Krug Brut 1998 205,00 €

99/100 Champagne Bollinger Brut 95,00 €

La Grande Année 2002

99/100 Champagne Louis Roederer 185,00 €

Brut Cristal 2004

99/100 Champagne Philipponnat 121,00 €

Brut Clos des Goisses 2000

98/100 Champagne Charles Heidsieck 160,00 €

Brut Blanc des Millénaires 1995

98/100 Champagne Gosset Extra brut Celebris 1998 110,00 €

98/100 Champagne Grand Siècle par Laurent-Perrier 170,00 €

Brut Grande Cuvée

98/100 Champagne Krug Brut Grande Cuvée 150,00 €

97/100 Champagne Dom Pérignon Brut Rosé 2000 n/a

96/100 Champagne Deutz 111,00 €

Brut Cuvée William Deutz 1999

96/100 Champagne Deutz 130,00 €

Brut Amour de Deutz 2002

96/100 Champagne Piper-Heidsieck 115,00 €

Brut Rare 2002

Here are the scores for the best Champagnes we tasted in 2011.

You will find all of our 2011 tasting notes on our website:


CHAMPAGNEPhilipponnat BrutClos des Goisses 2000 Deep gold. Intense nosedeploying notes of stonefruits, dried fruits and toastedundercurrents after swirling. The palate combines abun-dant fullness, vinosity and magnificent freshness. Alreadynicely open, this 2000 is at its peak. Excellent.

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

99/100

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

CHAMPAGNEBrut Cuvée William Deutz1999Golden hue. Open, profound, com-plex nose suggestive of dried fig,candied fruits, gingerbread. Full-onrichness, vinosity, mellow character.A wine that manages to be both fulland ethereal with savoury freshness. Gold standard.

96/100

CHAMPAGNEBrut Amour de Deutz 2002Glistening light yellow, greenish tints,wonderful brilliance. Delicate, elegantnose delivering refined notes ofalmond, white flesh fruits and citrusafter swirling. Focused palate, soft andtense at the same time, fresh, withsavoury, clear-cut aromas.

96/100

95/100 Champagne Dom Pérignon n/a

Brut Oenothèque 1996

95/100 Champagne Duval-Leroy 95,00 €

Brut Femme de Champagne 2000

95/100 Champagne Françoise Bedel & Fils 65,00 €

Brut Cuvée Robert Winer 1996

95/100 Champagne Gosset 51,00 €

Brut Grand BLANC de Blancs

95/100 Champagne Henriot n/a

Brut Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1996

95/100 Champagne J. Dumangin FILS 99,00 €

Extra-dry 1er Cru Vinothèque 1996

95/100 Champagne Jean Vesselle 55,80 €

Brut GRAND CRU Cuvée Le Petit Clos 1996

95/100 Champagne Perrier-Jouët 118,00 €

Brut Belle Epoque 2004

95/100 Champagne Taittinger Brut BLANC de 105,00 €

Blancs Comtes de Champagne 2000

94/100 Champagne A. R. Lenoble Brut BLANC de 51,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Les Aventures

94/100 Champagne Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée 40,00 €

94/100 Champagne Gosset Grand Rosé 49,00 €

94/100 Champagne Henri Abelé 85,00 €

Brut Le Sourire de Reims 2003

94/100 Champagne Louis Roederer Brut 2004 56,00 €

94/100 Champagne Moët & Chandon n/a

Brut Grand Vintage Collection 1992

94/100 Champagne Thiénot Brut BLANC de Blancs 120,00 €

La Vigne aux Gamins 2000

93/100 Champagne Bollinger Brut ROSÉ 55,00 €

93/100 Champagne Dom Pérignon Brut 2002 n/a

93/100 Champagne Drappier 36,00 €

Brut Millésime Exception 2004

93/100 Champagne G.H. Mumm & Cie 118,00 €

Brut Cuvée R. Lalou 1999

93/100 Champagne G.H. Mumm & Cie Brut Blanc de 60,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Mumm de Cramant

93/100 Champagne G.H. Mumm & Cie Brut Blanc de 60,00 €

Noirs Grand Cru Mumm de Verzenay

93/100 Champagne Georges Vesselle 29,00 €

Brut Grand Cru Juline

93/100 Champagne Jacquart Brut de Nominée 49,00 €

93/100 Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Rosé 2006 58,00 €



CHAMPAGNEDrappier MillésimeException 2004 Deep golden hue. Profound,open nose with crunchydried fruit aromas (date, fig,dried apricot). The palate shows seductive volume, vinosityand mellowness though above all, freshness and complexfruity aromas. A stellar Champagne.


93/100

CHAMPAGNEPiper HeidsieckBrut Rare 2002Deep gold. Nose of candied fruits,lemon, notes of mocha, toast and freshmushroom. Rich, full-bodied palateshowing seductive vinosity and refinedbubbles. Lingering exuberance impartsgreat balance to the whole. Character and elegance.


96/100



93/100 Champagne Maurice Vesselle 75,00 €

Brut Grand Cru 1996

93/100 Champagne Philippe Gonet Brut Blanc de 88,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Belemnita 2004

93/100 Champagne Philipponnat Brut Grand Cru 52,95 €

Cuvée ”1522” 2002

93/100 Champagne Pierre Peters Brut Blanc de 36,10 €

Blancs Grand Cru Les Chétillons 2002

93/100 Champagne Soutiran Brut Grand Cru 34,00 €

Collection Privée

92/100 Champagne Amazone de Palmer Brut 38,00 €

92/100 Champagne Bourgeois Brut Blanc de Blancs 24,00 €

Cuvée de l'Ecu 2000

92/100 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut 2000 60,00 €

92/100 Champagne de Saint Gall Brut Blanc de 80,16 €

Blancs Grand Cru Orpale 1998

92/100 Champagne Deutz Brut ROSÉ 42,30 €

92/100 Champagne Devaux Brut ROSÉ D de Devaux 45,00 €

92/100 Champagne Drappier Brut Grande Sendrée - 125,00 €

Magnum 2002

92/100 Champagne Henri Abelé Brut ROSÉ 90,00 €

Le Sourire de Reims 2000

92/100 Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée 2002 110,00 €


Brut Grand Cru Collection 1988

92/100 Champagne Michel Gonet Extra 28,00 €

Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004

92/100 Champagne Noble Cuvée de Lanson 100,00 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs 1999

92/100 Champagne Pierre Moncuit 25,00 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2004

92/100 Champagne Ruffin & Fils Brut Grand Cru 25,00 €

Cuvée Nobilis 2005

92/100 Champagne Thiénot Brut Grande 70,00 €

Cuvée Alain Thienot 1999

CHAMPAGNEPhilippe Gonet - Brut blanc deblancs grand cru Belemnita 2004Golden hue. The nose opens up to notesof ripe pear then takes on a pronouncedmineral dimension. On the palate, seduc-tive framework, silky texture, melted cha-racter and fullness. Mineral-dominatedaromas linger on and on. A superlative wine.


93/100

CHAMPAGNEAmazone de Palmer Brut Quite deep, faintly amber-like gold.Open nose mingling dried fruits, a patis-serie touch and wonderful minerality.On the palate, great balance of vinosityand freshness, refined, melted texture,great length. An elegant, characterful dry Champagne.


92/100

CHAMPAGNEPierre Moncuit - Brut blancde blancs Grand Cru 2004 Light gold. Open nose developingwhite flesh fruits, citrus and mineralnotes. Full palate, both well-structured and melted. Refinedbubbles, mouth-coating freshness.Superb length. A top-flight blanc de blancs.


92/100



91/100 Champagne Christian Bannière 18,00 €

Brut Grand Cru Masterclass

91/100 Champagne Collard-Picard 50,00 €

Brut Cuvée des Archives 2002

91/100 Champagne Collet Brut Esprit Couture 90,00 €

91/100 Champagne Couche Père & Fils 60,00 €

Brut Sensation 1995

91/100 Champagne Franck Bonville 39,20 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée

Les Belles Voyes - Vieilli en fût de chêne

91/100 Champagne Henriot Brut ROSÉ 5,00 €

91/100 Champagne J. de Telmont Brut O.R 1735 2001 60,00 €

91/100 Champagne Laurent-Perrier Brut ROSÉ 65,00 €

91/100 Champagne Paul Déthune Brut Grand Cru 28,00 €

Cuvée Prestige Princesse des Thunes

91/100 Champagne Philipponnat Brut Grand Blanc 42,75 €

91/100 Champagne Thiénot Brut Blanc de Blancs 70,00 €

Cuvée Stanislas 2004

90/100 Champagne A. R. Lenoble Brut Blanc de 26,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru

90/100 Champagne André Delaunois Brut Blanc de n/a

Noirs 1er Cru Dame Palmyre 2005

90/100 Champagne Charles Heidsieck 45,00 €

Brut Rosé Réserve

90/100 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve 33,00 €

90/100 Champagne Claude Cazals Brut Grand Cru 18,25 €

Cuvée Vive

90/100 Champagne Deutz Brut Classic 32,50 €

90/100 Champagne Devaux Brut Ultra D de Devaux 39,00 €

90/100 Champagne Devaux Brut D de Devaux 2002 35,00 €

90/100 Champagne Duval-Leroy 45,00 €

Brut Authentis Bouzy 2005

90/100 Champagne Fleury père & FILS Brut 1995 45,00 €

90/100 Champagne Franck Bonville 18,20 €

Brut ROSÉ Grand Cru

90/100 Champagne Gonet Sulcova Brut Blanc de 27,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée Gaïa

90/100 Champagne Gosset Brut Grande Réserve 38,00 €

90/100 Champagne Henri Goutorbe 25,30 €

Brut Grand Cru Spécial Club 2002

90/100 Champagne Henriot Brut 2002 40,00 €

90/100 Champagne J. de Telmont Brut Blanc de 55,00 €

Blancs Cuvée Grand Couronnement 2000

90/100 Champagne J. Dumangin FILS Extra brut 35,00 €

Blanc de Noirs Cuvée Hippolyte - Vieilli sous bois

90/100 Champagne J. M. Gobillard & FILS 21,20 €

Brut Privilège des Moines - Élevé en fût de chêne

90/100 Champagne Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix 17,20 €

90/100 Champagne Leclerc Briant Brut Divine 2004 45,00 €

90/100 Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier 36,00 €


Brut Grand Cru Collection 1976

CHAMPAGNECharles Heidsieck Brut Réserve Deep yellow. Complex, evolvingnose with notes of fresh butter,citrus fruits and creme brulee. The palate is fleshy, freshand long-lasting, combining richness and a tonic element.The finish reveals lingering, delicately toasted perfumes. Asuperlative Champagne.


90/100

RATED WINES



Brut Grand Cru 2000


Brut Rosé Grand Cru


Brut Grand Cru 1985

90/100 Champagne Michel Gonet 21,00 €

Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004

90/100 Champagne Michel Gonet Brut Grand Cru 40,00 €

Blanc de Blancs - Élevé en fût de chêne 2004

90/100 Champagne Palmer & Co Extra Brut 26,00 €

90/100 Champagne Pannier Extra Brut Egérie 2000 65,00 €

90/100 Champagne Patrice Marc Brut Grand Cru 47,00 €

Perla Néra

90/100 Champagne Penet-Chardonnet 110,00 €

Cuvée Diane Claire Grand Cru Brut Nature

90/100 Champagne Perrier-Jouët Brut Blason ROSÉ 41,00 €

90/100 Champagne Philippe Gonet Roy Soleil 22,80 €

90/100 Champagne Philipponnat Brut Réserve 2003 38,60 €

90/100 Champagne Pierre Peters Brut Blanc de 18,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée de Réserve

90/100 Champagne Pierre Peters Brut ROSÉ for Albane 21,50 €

90/100 Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Demi-sec 32,00 €

Cuvée Sublime

90/100 Champagne Tzarina Brut N° 1 50,00 €

CHAMPAGNEMaurice Vesselle Brut Grand Cru 2000 Amber-like old gold. Very opennose intermixing dried apricot,dried fig and patisserie notes. Ablend of power, firmness and superb freshness on the palatehighlighting evolved aromas. Very alluring across the palate.Set aside for sophisticated pre-dinner drinks or with food.


90/100


RATED WINES 86-89/100

89/100 Champagne Blin's Extra 38,90 €

Brut Edition Limitée 2002

89/100 Champagne Bauget-Jouette 35,00 €

Brut Cuvée Jouette

89/100 Champagne Bonnet-Gilmert Brut Blanc de 22,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée de Réserve 2006

89/100 Champagne Chanoine Brut Blanc de Blancs 48,00 €

Grand Cru Tsarine 2006

89/100 Champagne Claude Cazals Brut Blanc de 19,25 €

Blancs Grand Cru 2002

89/100 Champagne Coessens Extra brut 2006 47,00 €

89/100 Champagne J. M. Gobillard & FILS 19,95 €

Brut Cuvée Prestige 2006

89/100 Champagne Jacob Robert 19,50 €

Brut Collection Privée

89/100 Champagne Jacquart Brut 2004 32,90 €

89/100 Champagne Le Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blancs 24,90 €

Grand Cru Prestige 2004

89/100 Champagne Michel Arnould & FILS Brut Grand 19,20 €

Cru La Grande Cuvée de Michel Arnould

89/100 Champagne Philippe Gonet Brut Blanc de 28,00 €


89/100 Champagne Pierre Legras Extra 23,00 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée Spéciale

89/100 Champagne Pierre Moncuit 18,00 €

Brut Pierre Moncuit - Delos

89/100 Champagne Ployez-Jacquemart 36,00 €

Extra Brut Vintage 2003

89/100 Champagne R. Renaudin Brut 1er Cru 26,00 €

L'Espiègle 1998

89/100 Confidences de Chassenay d'Arce Brut 39,00 €

88/100 Champagne A. Chauvet Brut Grand ROSÉ 17,40 €

88/100 Champagne André Delaunois 16,80 €

Brut 1er Cru Cuvée du Fondateur

88/100 Champagne André Jacquart Brut Blanc de 21,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Mesnil Expérience

88/100 Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur 25,00 €

88/100 Champagne Beaumont des Crayères 29,00 €

Brut Nostalgie 1999

88/100 Champagne Bergeronneau-Marion 18,60 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru

88/100 Champagne Bonnaire Brut Blanc de 21,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru

88/100 Champagne Bourdaire-Gallois 21,60 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs

88/100 Champagne Canard-Duchêne n/a

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grande Cuvée Charles VII

88/100 Champagne Charpentier Brut Blanc de 32,00 €

Noirs Terre d'Emotion

88/100 Champagne Charpentier 36,00 €

Brut ROSÉ Terre d'Emotion

88/100 Champagne Clos des Bergeronneau Brut 60,00 €

88/100 Champagne Didier Lefèvre Brut Blanc de 19,00 €


88/100 Champagne F. Vauversin Brut Blanc de 14,90 €

Blancs Grand Cru

OUR PICKS Here is our selection of excellent Champagnes that received scoresbetween 86 and 89 out of 100, in addition to the top

Champagnes scoring 90/100 or more. You can find all of our 2011 tastingnotes on our website: www.gilbertgaillard.com.



88/100 Champagne Gonet Sulcova Brut Grand Cru 2004 19,50 €

88/100 Champagne Guy Charlemagne Brut Blanc de 23,00 €

Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée Charlemagne 2006

88/100 Champagne Guy Tixier Brut 1er Cru 16,50 €

Coeur de Vignes 2006

88/100 Champagne Huré frères Brut Terre Natale 1999 32,00 €

88/100 Champagne J.M Tissier Brut ROSÉ de 17,80 €

Saignée Cuvée Aphrodite

88/100 Champagne Janisson & FILS Brut Grand Cru 25,00 €

88/100 Champagne Le Mesnil Brut Blanc de 16,90 €

Blancs Grand Cru

88/100 Champagne Les Vertus d'Elise Brut Blanc de 15,50 €

Blancs Cuvée Elise-Ambre - Vielli en fûts de chêne

88/100 Champagne Louis de Sacy Brut Rosé Grand Cru 35,00 €

Cuvée Nue

88/100 Champagne P. Lassalle-Hanin Brut 1er Cru 16,00 €

Cuvée Florale

88/100 Champagne Pascal Devilliers Brut RB 2004 26,00 €

88/100 Champagne Patrick Soutiran Brut Grand Cru 2005 45,00 €

88/100 Champagne Paul Goerg Brut Cuvée Lady 2000 62,00 €

88/100 Champagne Paul Michel Brut Blanc de n/a

Blancs 1er Cru Carte Blanche 2005

88/100 Champagne Ph. Mouzon Leroux 17,50 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2004

88/100 Champagne Philippe Glavier n/a

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Prestige

88/100 Champagne Pierre Arnould 19,00 €

Brut Grand Cru Cuvée Aurore

88/100 Champagne Pommery Brut ROSÉ Apanage 63,00 €

88/100 Champagne Royer Père & Fils Brut 2005 16,50 €

88/100 Champagne Royer Père & FILS 16,00 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Prestige

88/100 Champagne Trouillard Brut Cuvée Elexium 19,20 €

88/100 Champagne Vazart Coquart & FILS 19,05 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Grand Bouquet 2005

87/100 Champagne Blin's Brut Blanc de Blancs 34,85 €

Edition Limitée

87/100 Champagne André Robert Brut Blanc de 18,10 €

Blancs Grand Cru Le Mesnil 2004

87/100 Champagne Besserat de Bellefon Brut Blanc de 38,00 €

Blancs Cuvée des Moines

87/100 Champagne Boulard-Bauquaire 18,80 €

Brut Prestige Cuvée Mélanie

87/100 Champagne Charles Clément 16,50 €

Brut Cuvée Spéciale

87/100 Champagne Charles Ellner 22,00 €

Brut Prestige1999

87/100 Champagne Charles Mignon Brut Rosé 1er Cru 30,00 €

87/100 Champagne Coessens Brut Les Sens Boisés 42,00 €

87/100 Champagne Dany Fèvre Brut 2002 17,30 €

87/100 Champagne Diogène Tissier & FILS Extra Brut 15,50 €

87/100 Champagne Eugène Ralle Brut Rosé Grand Cru 16,80 €

87/100 Champagne Fabrice Bertemès Brut Blanc de 20,00 €

Blancs 1er Cru

87/100 Champagne Fallet-Dart 36,00 €

Brut Les Hauts des Clos du Mont

CHAMPAGNEP. Lassalle-HaninCuvée FloraleLight gold. The nose showsabundant freshness with amix of floral and fruity notes.Fleshy palate framed by refinedeffervescence. The aromas take on a pleasant crisp toneand the finish stays very fresh. A festive effort.


88/100

CHAMPAGNECharles ClémentCuvée Spéciale Light gold. Alluring noseintermixing white-fleshed fruitsand notes of brioche. Fleshy, full, fruit-forward attack, fairly vinous and leadinginto a firmer mid-palate with full-on freshness. Pear aromasare expressed over good length. A characterful effort.


87/100



87/100 Champagne Fleury père & FILS 25,00 €

Brut Blanc de Noirs

87/100 Champagne Gatinois Brut Grand Cru 2005 25,00 €

87/100 Champagne Guy Méa Brut 1er Cru Cuvée Prestige 16,20 €

87/100 Champagne Guy Tixier Brut Rosé 1er Cru 15,20 €

Rosissime 2008

87/100 Champagne Jean Velut Brut 2004 18,00 €

87/100 Champagne Jeeper Brut Grande Cuvée 2004 25,83 €

87/100 Champagne José Michel & FILS n/a

Brut Spécial Club 2005

87/100 Champagne Julien Chopin 14,50 €

Extra brut Blanc de Noirs Les Originelles

87/100 Champagne Lacourte Godbillon 30,00 €

Brut Cuvée Vanité

87/100 Champagne Le Brun de Neuville 23,25 €

Brut Cuvée Tendre Rosé

87/100 Champagne Le Gallais 24,00 €

Brut Cuvée Millésimée 2003

87/100 Champagne Le Royal Coteau 23,00 €

Brut Vieilles Vignes 2004

87/100 Champagne Léon Launois 20,00 €

Brut Rosé Cuvée Réservée

87/100 Champagne Louis Barthélémy Brut Saphir 2005 29,00 €

87/100 Champagne Macquart-Lorette 17,60 €

Brut 1er Cru Cuvée Prestige

87/100 Champagne Michel Arnould & FILS 21,50 €

Brut Grand Cru Carte d'Or 2005

87/100 Champagne Moutardier Brut 2004 15,55 €

87/100 Champagne Muse Brut 1er Cru 22,00 €

87/100 Champagne Napoléon Brut 1998 43,00 €

87/100 Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte 26,00 €

Brut Réserve Particulière

87/100 Champagne P. Lancelot-Royer 16,80 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée des Chevaliers

87/100 Champagne Pascal Etienne Brut 1999 17,00 €

87/100 Champagne Paul Clouet Brut Grand Cru 21,00 €

87/100 Champagne Pierre Mignon 19,80 €

Brut Cuvée de Madame 2004

87/100 Champagne René Rutat 14,50 €


87/100 Champagne Sadi Malot 15,60 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Vieille Réserve

87/100 Champagne Vranken Brut Diamant Bleu 1999 120,00 €

87/100 Pascal Walczak Père et Fils Millésime 2009 13,95 €

86/100 Champagne A. Desmoulins & Cie 24,00 €

Brut Grande Cuvée du Centenaire

86/100 Champagne A. Margaine Brut 1er Cru Le Brut n/a

86/100 Champagne A. Robert Brut Cuvée Le Sablon 30,00 €

86/100 Champagne Alfred Rothshild et Cie 22,00 €

Brut Grande Réserve 2006

86/100 Champagne B. Mallol-Gantois n/a

Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Grande Réserve

86/100 Champagne Beaumont des Crayères 21,90 €

Brut Fleur de Prestige 2002

86/100 Champagne Blondel Brut 1er Cru Carte d'Or 15,20 €

86/100 Champagne Bonnet Launois 25,00 €

Brut Cuvée Les Palis

86/100 Champagne Ch & A Prieur 29,80 €

Brut Grand Prieur 2000

86/100 Champagne Charles Heston Brut L'Agat 18,80 €

86/100 Champagne Chaudron Brut 1er Cru 17,05 €

Cuvée Capucine

CHAMPAGNEMoutardier Brut 2004Light gold. Open, expressivenose suggestive of candiedcitrus and dried fruits. Greathonesty on the palate, fleshy,well-structured and showing crunchy fruit (touch of redfruits) and abundant freshness. High standard here.


87/100

CHAMPAGNELe Royal CoteauBrut Vieilles Vignes 2004Light gold. Expressive, refinednose intermixing fruity notesand notes of pastries. On thepalate, volume, fat and vinosity, fine-grained, well-integratedtexture. Balanced across the palate by a touch of freshness.A nicely-crafted blanc de blancs.


87/100

86/100 Champagne Christian Bourmault 17,30 €

Brut Grand Eloge

86/100 Champagne Cuperly Brut Cuvée Prestige 17,50 €

86/100 Champagne Dautel-Cadot 22,30 €

Brut Cuvée Elégance

86/100 Champagne De Lozey Brut Rosé 21,50 €

86/100 Champagne Etienne Lefèvre 16,90 €

Brut Grand Cru Cuvée Prestige

86/100 Champagne Forget Brimont Brut Rosé 1er Cru 19,50 €

86/100 Champagne Froment-Griffon 15,50 €

Brut Privilège 2005

86/100 Champagne Gardet Brut Selected Réserve 25,00 €

86/100 Champagne Gratiot Brut Désiré 2004 23,00 €

86/100 Champagne Guy de Chassey 19,10 €

Brut Grand Cru 2002

86/100 Champagne Guy Méa 13,20 €

Brut 1er Cru Tradition

86/100 Champagne Guyot-Poutrieux 13,00 €


86/100 Champagne Henri David-Heucq 15,70 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve

86/100 Champagne Jacques Copinet 16,70 €

Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Sélection

86/100 Champagne Jacquinot & Fils 27,00 €

Brut Rosé Symphonie 2005

86/100 Champagne Jacquinot & Fils 24,00 €

Brut Symphonie 2000

86/100 Champagne Jean Marniquet Brut 1er Cru 2007 18,50 €

86/100 Champagne Jean Michel Brut 2005 17,50 €

86/100 Champagne Jean Valentin & Fils 15,20 €

Brut 1er Cru 2006

86/100 Champagne Jean-Cédric Deguy 23,20 €

Brut Cuvée Miss Emma

86/100 Champagne Jean-Yves de Carlini 13,90 €

Extra brut 1er Cru

86/100 Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin Brut Prestige 17,00 €

86/100 Champagne Julien Chopin Brut Carte Verte 13,30 €

86/100 Champagne L & S Cheurlin 21,00 €

Brut Coccinelle et Papillon

86/100 Champagne Le Brun de Neuville 19,25 €

Brut Cuvée Chardonnay

86/100 Champagne Louis Sostène 18,50 €

Brut 1er Cru Cuvée LS

86/100 Champagne Marquis de Pomereuil Brut Rosé 14,90 €

86/100 Champagne Michel Rocourt 14,25 €Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru

86/100 Champagne Moutardier 19,75 €

Brut Nature Pure Meunier

86/100 Champagne P. Lassalle-Hanin 13,00 €

Brut Cuvée de Réserve

86/100 Champagne Paul Dangin & Fils Brut Rosé Originel 27,50 €

86/100 Champagne Paul Laurent 17,00 €

Brut Cuvée du Fondateur

86/100 Champagne Philippe Lamarlière Brut 1er Cru 30,00 €

86/100 Champagne Pierre Gerbais Brut L'Originale 25,00 €

86/100 Champagne Pierre Mignon Brut Prestige 16,30 €

86/100 Champagne Pointillart & Fils 15,80 €

Extra brut Blanc de Blancs en barrique

86/100 Champagne R. Renaudin Brut Réserve 21,00 €

86/100 Marquis de Pomereuil Millésime 2006 14,50 €



CHAMPAGNEDautel-CadotBrut Cuvée EléganceLight yellow with golden highlights. A mixof ripe lemon and brioche-like, milk-breadtouches on the nose. The palate showsamazing vinosity and richness. Perfumedand melted across the palate, leaving a sensation of sweetnessthat would work well with food served with a sauce.


86/100

CHAMPAGNEPaul LaurentBrut Cuvée du FondateurLight gold. Clean, enticing nosemarked by red fruits and stonefruits. A fleshy, quite full-bodieddry sparkler showing savoury balance and freshness.Honest and expressive across the palate. Perfect as anappetiser, during a meal or to drink at every moment.


86/100

ALSACE GRANDS CRUS, where the terroir shines through


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THE GRANDS CRUS D'ALSACE REPRESENT 4% OF STILL WINE PRODUCTION

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Alsace Grands Crus, where the terroir shines through


The wines of Alsace are unique amongst France's classic winemaking regionsin that the vast majority of the region's still wines (96%) are made fromone grape variety, from an unamed site or lieu-dit. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris,

Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Riesling d'Alsace are the terms that generally appearon the labels. Whilst this is excellent for consumer comprehension, consistency andthe high regional quality that the market demands, it is less so for those who wishto consume Alsace wine at a different and higher level, for those producers wishingto push the boundaries of quality wine production and/or for those owning specialterroirs with the potential to produce great wine.

Viticulture and winemaking in Alsace has had a long and chequered history.Remnants of wild vines have been found in the region that pre-date mankind. Asearly as the 2nd century, records mention wine being transported along the RhineRiver, proving that wine commerce was well established.

Monasteries were established in villages such as Turkheim and Andlau in the 8thand 9th century and as was often the case, viticulture and winemaking flourishedaround these monasteries soon after. At the end of the 9th Century, 160 villagescultivated vines. It was around this time that many regulations, however looselyadhered to, begun to appear regarding grape varieties and viticulture. Traminer,Muscat and Riesling were the varieties most often mentioned. In the 14th Century,the town of Colmar alone was shipping 100,000 hectolitres of wine a year,principally to the Netherlands.

TROUBLED TIMESAlsace viticulture has suffered from numerous invaders, rulers and wars. The ThirtyYears War (1618 -1648) was traumatic and disastrous for Alsace, with rampagingarmies, pillaging, famine and pestilence. At the end of the war, when peacereturned, wine production recovered rapidly and reached its peak towards the endof the 16th Century. It was however a period of over-production, inferior varietiesand hybrids grown on the unsuitable plains. By 1828 the region's vineyards hadreached a massive 30,000 hectares (15,600 hectares today). This over-production oflow quality, bulk wine was detrimental for the better vineyards on the slopes wherethe higher costs of production and the low returns made viticulture uneconomic.

Unsurprisingly, export markets dwindled and domestic demand slumped due tothe local preference for beer. To add to this, many vineyards were affected bymildew, powdery mildew and then phylloxera, which arrived in 1876. The totalsurface area of vineyards plummeted to around 9,000 hectares.

When the Great War of 1914 started Alsace was in German hands but it was handedback to the French by the Treaty of Versailles in 1919. Alsace was again invaded bythe Germans in May 1940 and the region became part of the Third Reich, with130,000 young Frenchmen forced to join the German army. After many destructivebattles Alsace was finally liberated by the Americans in March 1945.

THE ROUTE BACK TO QUALITYWhen the dust settled, a conflict of economic interests ensued. Some of the few

remaining growers were convinced that the way forward was to produce large

Gewurtztraminer

Riesling

Pinot Gris

volumes of cheap wine for the impoverished, war-torn

population and the military. At this time, one third of the

Alsace vineyard was already planted to hybrids and so the easy

option was to plant more.

Fortunately, the voices for quality prevailed and in 1945 theAssociation of Wine Growers detailed a framework of ruleswhich formed the basis from which the Institut National desAppellations d'Origine (INAO) drew up the AOC rules for theregion. The INAO was set up in 1935 and by the end of 1937the classic regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and theRhône all had their AOC regulations in place. Due to thenumerous upheavals outlined previously, Alsace had to waituntil 1962 before it was allowed to join the AOC club.

GRANDS CRUS The concept of special crus was not a new one to the Alsace

region. In 762 the Archbishop of Strasbourg founded the

Abbey of Ettenheim and made his income from the vines of

Vauborg; in Kintzheim, in the 9th Century, the Benedictine

abbots of Ebersmunster owned vineyards on the Praelatenberg.

These early Grands Crus and other special lieu-dits were


QUALITY FACTORS

INITIALLY ONLY THESE FOUR VARIETIES WERE AUTHORISED

FOR ALSACE GRANDS CRUS

Muscat Blanc

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DOMAINE PIERRE FRICK94/100Grand Cru Pinot GrisVorbourg vendanges tardives2008

DOMAINE MOULIN DEDUSENBACH92/100Grand Cru GewurztraminerKaefferkopf 2009

BOTT FRÈRES90/100Grand Cru Riesling Kirchbergde Ribeauvillé 2009

BESTHEIM89/100Grand Cru GewurztraminerZinnkoepflé 2009

CAVE DE TURCKHEIM89/100Gewurztraminer vendanges tardives 2007

CAVE VINICOLE DU VIEILARMAND89/100Château Ollwiller Riesling 2008

BERNARD HAEGELIN89/100Gewurztraminer Bollenberg 2009

DOMAINE MATERNEHAEGELIN & SES FILLES87/100Pinot Gris Cuvée Élise 2009

Alsace Grands Crus


familiar the local vignerons, but they were neither known nor

recognised outside the region.

Officially recognised Grand Cru vineyards have been firmlyestablished in Bordeaux since 1855, and in Burgundy since1861. It was not until 1975 that a decree identified Schlossbergas the first Alsace Grand Cru, and it was only in 1983 that afurther 24 vineyards were added and the Alsace Grand CruAOC was officially delimited. In 1992 expansion continuedwith the addition of 25 vineyards, and in 2007 Kaefferkopfjoined the elite, making a total of 51. Though numerous, theGrands Crus d'Alsace represent just 4% of still wineproduction, some 45,000 hectolitres.

VARIETIES Seven varieties are allowed in AOC Alsace but only four ofthese are authorised for Alsace Grand Cru: Riesling, Pinot Gris,Muscat and Gewürztraminer. As is often the case in Frenchviticultural law, there are exceptions to the rules and frequentamendments; Alsace is no different. The less noble varietySylvaner has been permitted since 2006 but only in the GrandCru vineyard of Zotzenberg. In 2005, in the Grand Cruvineyard of Altenberg de Bergheim, Jean-Michel Deiss (ownerof Domaine Marcel Deiss) managed to convince the INAO tochange the law to allow for the omission of the grape varietyon a wine label from a Grand Cru-designated vineyard (theywere also persuaded to allow up to 10% of Pinot Blanc, PinotNoir, Muscat and even Chasselas into his Grand Cru blends, ifthe vines were planted before 2005). Blends are also allowed inthe Grand Cru of Kaefferkopf.

SIZE MATTERS The size of the Grand Cru vineyards vary hugely from thesmallest (Kanzlerberg, 3.2 hectares) to the largest (80 hectaresat Schlossberg). They have been designated to reflect thespecific terroir, in particular the soil types. Grand Cru Vineyard

RIBEAUVILLE HAS THREE GRANDS CRUS

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Cru: they are the ancient houses of Hugel et Fils, MaisonTrimbach and Leon Beyer.

Hugel et Fils was established in 1639 in the village ofRiquewihr. The company owns a large part (3.8 hectares) ofGrand Cru Schoenenbourg and 8 hectares of Grand CruSporen. Their Jubilee range, Vendage Tardives and Sélection deGrains Nobles all come from these vineyards, but Grand Cru isnever seen on the labels. Jean Hugel believes that many of the


QUALITY FACTORS

Geisberg is marl, limestone and sandstone; Moenchberg ismarl, limestone and scree; Weibelsberg is sandstone, andKastelberg is shale. These four vineyards are some of thesmaller Grand Cru vineyards, all less than 10 hectares. Thereare are twenty Grand Cru vineyards over 30 hectares in size andseveral that are over 50 hectares. These are too large anddiminish the uniqueness, quality and rarity. It is clearly notpossible for these huge vineyards to have the same soil andterroir, nor are they mono-varietal. Riesling is the most widelyplanted grape. Due to its transparent nature, it truly reflects thedifferences in terroir to be found from one Grand Cru toanother. Riesling from the Grand Cru vineyard of Geisbergproduces wines of power and excellent age worthiness where asGrand Cru Bruderthal produces Rieslings that are purer withgreater elegance. However, most vineyards are planted with atleast two of the four varieties, and sometimes all four, forexample, the 21-hectare vineyard of Florimont, whereGewürztraminer is by far the most widely planted variety, butMuscat and Pinot Gris also thrive, and the Rieslings areparticularly racey.

THE OUTSIDERSThere are three famous producers in Alsace who neither agreewith nor conform to the notion and reality that is Alsace Grand

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Alsace Grands Crus, where the terroir shines through


boundaries are too extensive and include a number of soil

types that significantly devalue the designation.

The Trimbach family has been making wine for over 400 years

and owns vineyards in the Grands Crus vineyards of Osterberg,

Rosacker and Geisberg. The company is renowned for its

Rieslings, with Clos Ste Hune (Rosacker)and Cuvée Frédéric

Emile (Osterberg and Geisberg) more famous than the Grand

Cru vineyards from whence they come.

Long-standing producer Léon Beyer owns vineyards in the

Grands Crus of Eichberg and Pfersigberg. Company head Mark

Beyer has little interest in the Grand Cru system and markets

his wines as Comtes d'Eguisheim with no mention of Grand

Cru on any label.

NO MORE PLEASE Despite those producers who abstain, there is little doubt that

the Grand Cru designation in Alsace has been a huge success.

Grand Cru specialists such as Domaine Schlumberger (70

hectares of Grand Cru vineyards) have raised the quality bar of

all the wines produced within the appellation. Though it is

early days, it seems unlikely that many (or indeed any) of the

Alsace Grand Cru vineyards will become household names, as

La Tache or Chambertin are in Burgundy; there are simply too

many of them, and they are too difficult to say and spell for

non-German speakers. One thing is for sure: any further

expansion in numbers will significantly weaken the brand and

encourage more winemakers to become outsiders.

ALSACE GRAND CRU A.C.Domaine Pierre Frick - Pinot grisVorbourg Vendanges Tardives 2008 Pale golden hue. Pleasurable nose with astrong fruit streak (yellow peach, exoticnotes). Sweet, robust, closely-integratedpalate with focused, intense flavours.Excellent spicy, fresh finish that lingers. A successful effortwith strong powers of seduction.

94/100

ALSACE GRAND CRU A.C.Château Ollwiller - RieslingVieilles Vignes 2007Light gold. Intense, distinctivenose marrying notes of ripe fruits,lemon and pleasant focused mineralfragrances. On the palate, abundant elegance, stuffing andfragrance. A full, rich, well-balanced great growth. Pairwith a noble fish or shellfish.

92/100

ALSACE GRAND CRU A.C.Domaine Bott Frères - RieslingKirchberg de Ribeauvillé 2009Light yellow. Pleasant nose marryinggrape with floral notes and faintmineral touches after swirling. Onthe palate, a fresh, tonic wine with highly expressive whitefruit aromas. The finish introduces a more mineraldimension. A sterling effort.

90/100

ALSACE A.C.Bernard Haegelin Bollenberg 2009Light gold. Extremely distinctive noseblending lychee and rose petal. Thepalate lives up to expectations with itsfullness, freshness and grandeur.More of the same lingering, tell-talearomatics. A sterling effort.

89/100

ALSACE PINOT GRIS A.C.Domaine Materne Haegelinet filles - Cuvée Elise 2009 Light gold. Delicate nose of dried fruitswith a whiff of spice. On the palate, thetell-tale richness of the varietal yet alsofreshness. More of the same focused,long-lasting fragrances. The ideal wine for a foie gras,gourmet salad, scallops...

87/100

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

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DOMAINE SCHLUMBERGER: 70HECTARES OF GRAND CRU VINEYARDS

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REGION

Everyone has heard of the 1855 Grand Cru classification of the Médoc;

many recognize Médoc’s other classification, the Cru Bourgeois, but it was

only recently that it was officially recognized. We follow the fall and rise of

the Cru Bourgeois classification and hear from the new classification’s

organisers and varying views from the wine producers themselves about

the challenges they face today of being part of the New Cru Bourgeois club.

The New Cru Bourgeois The Renaissance or Demise of

Medoc’s historical classification

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THE FAMOUS TOUR DE BY, WHO GAVE HIS NAME TO A WELL-KNOWN CRU BOURGEOIS

The New Cru Bourgeois


Continued on page 44

T he term Cru Bourgeois goes back to mediaeval timesduring English rule, when wine merchants based inthe “Bourg” of Bordeaux city were an affluent and

influential class in their own right. They had numerous privileges,such as being exempt from paying the high taxes levied on winefrom their vineyards, and having the priority when exportingtheir wines, passing before other producers. Such privilegesgave them an advantage commercially and enabled them toinvest early on in land, to plant vineyards and create large wineestates. The wines they produced were the “cru” wines of theBourgeois and often noted to be of a superior quality. A textdating back to 1740 includes the first selection of these winesand shows their higher prices.

To be eligible to be Cru Bourgeois your property needs to bebased in one of the Médoc’s eight communes. The Médoc is a

strip of land that ‘goes nowhere’, dividing the Atlantic and theGironde estuary. It takes an hour and three quarters fromBordeaux city centre to arrive at its tip, a 100-kilometre drive.If you take the small Route des Châteaux, you will pass throughsome of the world’s most well-known wine villages such asMargaux, St Julien and Pauillac, home to some of the mostfamous châteaux in the world; the neoclassical ChâteauMargaux, the fairy tale castle of Pichon Longueville and thedumpy tower of Château Latour. These are members of aprestigious club, the 60 or so Grand Cru Classé elite. This isalso the home to over 1000 other châteaux that share similarterroir and climate, over 200 of these are Cru Bourgeois today.

Frédérique Dutheillet de Lamothe, Director of theAlliance des Cru Bourgeois du Médoc, explains therecent chequered history of this ancient classification:

THE CRU BOURGEOIS TIME LINE 12TH CENTURY

Development of the Bourgeois class of wine merchants in Bordeaux with superior rights and privileges

15TH CENTURYFirst mention of the "Crus" owned by the "Bourgeois" of Bordeaux

1932First list of 444 Cru Bourgeois châteaux drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Gironde’s Chamber of Industry ranked in three categories (Cru Bourgeois Superior Exceptionnel, Cru Bourgeois Superior, Cru Bourgeois). The classification however was never formally approved by the Minister of Agriculture.

1962Creation of the Cru Bourgeois Syndicate (now the Alliance des Cru Bourgeois du Médoc)

2003The first ‘official’ classification (with ministerial decree) of 247 Cru Bourgeois châteaux ranked in three categories as before

2004The Cru Bourgeois Syndicate becomes the Alliance des Cru Bourgeois deMédoc with Thierry Gardinier of Château Phelan Ségur as President

2007Classification of 2003 annulled by the Administrative Court of Bordeaux due to procedural faults (propelled by the group of 78 producers who had been excluded from the 2003 classification)

September 2010New Classification System put in place by the Alliance des CruBourgeois governed by a rigorous set of guidelines. First Official Classification of the 243 Cru Bourgeois du Médoc for the2008 vintage

WHAT WAS NEW?

• Properties are checked for eligibility as a first step • A single tier classification of Cru Bourgeois • An annual quality assessment of the wines not the property or terroir• An independent panel of professional tasters determine the selection

from March to July • All procedures carried out by an independent organisation

“Bureau Veritas” • Sampling of a wine that has been uniformly blended • A selection of a representative benchmark wine each year which

serves as the reference for the tasters • Wines are classified two years after the harvest

September 2011Official Classification of 246 Cru Bourgeois du Médoc for the 2009 vintage

September 2012Official Classification of Cru Bourgeois du Médoc for the 2010 vintage

THE CRU BOURGEOIS DU MÉDOC CLASSIFICATION OF THE 2009 VINTAGE

Total of 246 properties divided over 8 communes of the Médoc

A FEW FACTS AND FIGURES ABOUT THE CRU BOURGEOIS 2009 VINTAGE

• 246 châteaux recognised as Cru Bourgeois• 4,300 hectares of vines (26% of vineyard area in the Médoc)• 32 million bottles (38% of the production of the Médoc)• An increase in volume of nearly 30% compared to the

2008 vintage (218 châteaux).

Médoc 99

Haut Médoc 85

Listrac 13

Moulis 16

Margaux 9

Pauillac 5

Saint-Estèphe 19

St Julien 0

FRÉDÉRIC DE LUZE, THE NEWPRESIDENT OF THE CRUS BOURGEOIS

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“I started working as Communications Director for theAlliance des Cru Bourgeois du Médoc in June 2007, five daysbefore the 2003 classification was annulled. One month later,the Saint-Emilion classification of 2006 fell too, but ratherthan being cancelled totally as was our case, the classificationreverted to the 1996 one. We have had to start completelyfrom zero and create a system that did not exist before, basedon the quality of an individual wine. We had a dark period ofthree years between 2007 and 2010 when we had no officialexistence. We had to find our way in the dark but our mem-bers stood by us with Thierry Gardinier, our president, leadingthe way for six years. Today Frédéric de Luze is president. Overthe past years we have fought alongside the wine producers toprotect the valuable heritage that is the Cru Bourgeois classifi-cation. The current system is a beginning and we are doing itstep by step.”

A WORD ABOUT CLASSIFICATIONSThe desire to give a hierarchy to wine properties in a givenwine region is ages old. The goal is to help the consumerselect a wine in preference to another when faced with abewildering choice. Alsace or Burgundy’s Grand Cru is notequivalent to Saint-Emilion’s Grand Cru. Pomerol has never had

a classification and does not seem to miss it. Do classificationsfurther complicate the picture or help the consumer to choose?There is a need for clear classifications that the consumer canunderstand and can rely on as a sign of quality, particularlyfor wines that are too “small” to have their own recognisablebranding.

1855 Classification of the Médoc & Sauternes: 61 propertiesselected on price, five tier hierarchy, “static” classification.

Cru Artisan; traditional classification of 44 small family propertiesin the Médoc with often less than 5 hectares.

CLASSIFICATION SYSTEMS IN OTHER REGIONS OF BORDEAUXSaint-Emilion Classification: Two tier Premier Grand CruClassé (15 existing) and Grand Cru Classé (61 existing).Reviewed every ten years since 1955. ‘Fell’ at the same time asthe Cru Bourgeois with the 2006 classification being cancelledand a return to the classification of 1996 (later those eightproperties that were promoted to Premier Cru Classé wereable keep their new status and those that were demoted wereable to stay within – a slight mockery of the classification. Weawait the new classification in 2012 to see what will happen(96 châteaux have applied!).Pessac-Léognan classification: one-tier unchanging classificationsince 1959.

What does Cru Bourgeois mean to you?

Frédérique Dutheillet de Lamothe, Director of theAlliance des Cru Bourgeois du Médoc: “I startedwor“Having Cru Bourgeois on your label adds value; accordingto wine merchants, prices can be increased by 10-20%. Retailprices in France vary from 8 euros to 25 euros up. There is theneed for a classification system for the wines that fall betweenCru Classé and Cru Artisan. With today’s climate and increasedcompetition, the Cru Bourgeois classification is a tremendouschance to ‘stand out from the crowd’.

We organize many press and trade events for our members,the presentation of the new vintage in Bordeaux, les primeursfor example, and most recently with many of our CruBourgeois châteaux in China - in the cities of Shanghai,Canton and Peking. In emerging markets such as these, anysign of authenticity is reassuring for the new wine consumer.From the 2010 vintage a small label of authentication withhologram and traceability number will be required on eachbottle (previously printed on the back label).



floors. The historic Cru Bourgeois classification is a precioustool and worth fighting for!” Alliance des Crus Bourgeois duMédoc.

Isabelle Davin, oenologist, Château Le Crock (SaintEstèphe): “I am the oenologist for the Cuvelier family forboth of their properties, Château Leoville Poyferré (St Julien),a second growth in the 1855 classification, and for Château LeCrock which is a Cru Bourgeois, a classification with evenolder origins. For us, being a Cru Bourgeois is historic, andthat is very important for Le Crock.

The same work methods are used for both properties (even theyellow label with rounded corners is similar), so any technicalconstraints are negligible for us. I can appreciate that somesmaller wine producers are alarmed at the weight of some ofthe demands. There are many things that are imposed and thatI understand could be difficult for some producers to take on.We were all given a copy of the guidelines before it was accepted,now we have to play by the rules of the game.

Saying that, I do make sure to pass on any difficulties thatarise, such as the need for a homogenous vat sample at a timewhen I am still ageing the wine in barrel. I understand it,but sometimes practically it can be difficult and the goal atthe end is to not be prevented from producing the very bestwine we can. The good thing is that there is the opportunityto be heard.

Having Cru Bourgeois on the label continues to be a sign ofquality, for sure. I am very confident that in the future, oncewe have passed this test period, the practical demands of theclassification will become less onerous and that this willattract other properties to become, or return to being, CruBourgeois.”

Ludovic and Julien Meffre, Joint Directors ofChâteau du Glana (St Julien), Château Lalande (St Julien),Château Bellegrave (Pauillac): “We have the chance tobe in very prestigious appellations and have made the choicesince the 2009 vintage to communicate under our own brands

It is a true alliance and our members are consulted before anydecisions are made. We like to see ourselves as one big familywhich helps in terms of visibility in export markets. We areopen to improvements, we are flexible and we try to listen andtake on board the suggestions and reactions of our wine producermembers. We work with an independent body called BureauVeritas; they impose the rules and regulations to ensure thatthe results are impartial and just. They advised that an annualclassification was the most reliable way of ensuring the qualityof a product that changes each year, in accordance with the vintage.This annual system is time-consuming but it is representative anda good way to start.

The fact that the current system is a one-tier classification hascaused some criticism. We wanted to securely build theground floor of our castle if you like, before adding five or six

ISABELLE DAVIN IS OENOLOGIST FORTHE CUVELIER FAMILY

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HAUT-MÉDOC A.C.Château de Malleret 2009Dark hue with red highlights.Fairly subdued nose of red fruitsbacked by smoked oak. On thepalate, wonderful structure and ameasure of power. The tannins arer ipe and melted with fruitexpression. A full wine drinking well in a year or two.

87/100



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and opt out of the Cru Bourgeois classification. We feel thattoo few of the criteria are concern with the production of quality(for example, in terms of grape sorting after harvest, barrelageing). There are too many heavy administrative procedures,particularly in terms of labeling and technical constraints.We work with Denis Dubourdieu to bring out the wonderfuldifferences of our wines and their terroir. The idea of a benchmarkwine that our wines are compared to, seems to be workingtowards the opposite - standardisation. The absence of anyhierarchy within the classification means that there is noquality distinction between the different Cru Bourgeois,which removes the desire for healthy competition. For us,the classification has become the equivalent to being awardeda medal.

Our distributors have confirmed what we feel, namely, thatCru Bourgeois for us represents little interest in traditionaldistribution. We prefer to respond to the actual demands ofour customers, which correspond to the real demands of themarket today. We are not alone. In St Julien there are no moreCru Bourgeois remaining and many of the former elite of theCru Bourgeois Exceptionnels such as Poujeaux, Chasse Spleenand Siran have chosen to do the same and focus on their own

brand following. What this does mean is that we have to organizeour own communication with the world press and trade. Forthe last primeurs we organised tastings here at Château duGlana with the other ex-Cru Bourgeois châteaux of St Julien.

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IN CHÂTEAU LE CROCK, HAVING CRU BOURGEOIS ON THE LABEL CONTINUES TO BE A SIGN OF QUALITY

LUDOVIC AND JULIEN MEFFRE, JOINT DIRECTORS OF CHÂTEAU

DU GLANA (ST JULIEN)

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THE HISTORY OF THE MÉDOC

The Médoc or Middle country was an isolated, forested, marshyarea devoid of vinesuntil the Middle Ages, when vines were plantedaround the religious priories such as Cantenac and Macau. It wasnot until the 17th century that the Dutch, with their skills of drainingtheir own low country or Pays Bas, drained the marsh and enabledthe expansion of vineyards in the Médoc.

THE OCEANIC CLIMATE OF THE MÉDOCThe Medoc is sandwiched between two water masses, the AtlanticOcean and the Gironde Estuary, which regulate temperatures, makingthe climate mild and temperate. In addition the region benefits fromthe warm Gulf Stream from the Caribbean. A pine forest planted byNapoleon III protects the vineyards from winds and storms off theAtlantic. Rain falls mainly in the winter months and otherwise theregion is warm with regular sunshine.

THE UNIQUE SEDIMENTARY SOILS OF THE MÉDOCSome 50 million years ago the Aquitaine basin was part of a largetropical sea. Over time various layers of sedimentary deposits werelaid down over the limestone bedrock of the sea bed to form apeninsular. These are made up of a mixture of gravel of quartz,small rounded pebbles, sandstone, clay and silt brought by theGaronne and Dordogne Rivers from the Pyrenees and the MassifCentral. These make up the sub-soils and soils of the Médoc whichover time have become eroded to form undulating gravel outcropswith perfect natural drainage. The vine’s roots plunge down to thewater table for a supply of enough - but never too much - water.

CHÂTEAUBELLEGRAVE, ONTHE FAMOUSTERROIR OFPAUILLAC, IN THE NORTHOF THE MÉDOC

There is much work to be done to build our individual brandson the world markets.”

Bernard Segond, Château Lousteauneuf (Médoc):“At our level, a family property of 28 hectares, we do not havethe notoriety of estates such as Poujeaux to be able to promoteour wines on our own. Being part of the Cru Bourgeois is agood trampoline for Lousteauneuf. For example, for thePrimeurs we have the same visibility as the Cru Classés. TheAlliance organizes a tasting during the three days for the thousandsof buyers and press from around the world. My press book isfilled with press from such events organized by the Alliance.There is a real visibility and exposure that I would not otherwisehave. I am involved in the practical aspects of growing andmaking wine so I have no time to dedicate to press and generalcommunication.

There is a market for Cru Bourgeois, it is a brand in its ownright. In markets such as China I have found that to have CruBourgeois on your label is a marker, an assurance of a certainlevel of quality. The new Cru Bourgeois classification is abeginning. It is important that as members, the wine producerscontinue to communicate with the Alliance about ways toimprove the system. There are many opportunities to speakout, but sometimes there is more speaking in the corridoronce the meeting is over than during it!

I do not find the labelling requirements restrictive. In this climateyou need to anticipate, to be equipped to the minimum beforeit is required. You get nothing for nothing.”

Nicolle Croft



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The winegrowing region of Roussillon covers a surface area of around 30,000

hectares and offers among the fullest possible range of wines. Its white wines

proudly display their full-bodied Mediterranean character, its rosés are

remarkably smooth and fruity, and its reds feature all of the subtlety conferred

by the region’s mosaic of terroirs. Its lightly fortified, sweet vin doux naturel

(VDN) is one of French Catalonia’s hallmark wines, making up almost 90% of

national production of this type of wine. In terms of dry wines, the region’s

largest AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) is by far Côtes du Roussillon

(250,000 hectolitres), which essentially produces red wines and rosés. All of

Roussillon’s 200,000 hectolitres of vin doux naturel wines are AOC.

The amazingly bountifulRoussillon

Text and photos: Pierre Torrès

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The region’s vineyards ascend up the slopes of thenatural amphitheatre formed by the mountains thatembrace Roussillon. To the north, the limestone barrier

of the Corbières foothills forms a natural border with thewinegrowing region of Aude; to the west, the imposing Canigoumassif in the Pyrenees dominates the Roussillon plain; and tothe south, the long Albères mountain chain, whose crest formsthe border with Spain, plunges into the Mediterranean Sea alonga rocky coast that supports the famous vineyards of Banyuls. Thevines grow up the foothills of these massifs as well as climb thestepped terraces along the Têt, Agly and Tech rivers.

The area gets a remarkable amount of sun per year, with hot, dry

summers and mild winters. Rains water the vines in the autumn

and at the beginning of spring. Various winds sweep through the

vineyards, including the strong northwest wind, the

Tramontane, which increases the aridity of the region and

creates excellent conditions for grapes to ripen to perfection.

Over the centuries, some 20 grape varieties have been planted -

and are still present – in Roussillon’s terroirs. Grenache, well

adapted to the region’s dry, hot conditions, which allow the

grapes to overripen without spoiling, is a key variety in the

production of vin doux naturel. Roussillon vineyards include

various types of Grenache: Noir, Gris, Rose and Blanc. Carignan

is equally well established in the region, as well as Syrah, which

was successfully introduced more recently and yields overripe

grapes that express intense aromas and high-quality tannins.

There are also some Mourvèdre vines. Another variety typical of

Catalan winemaking is the white Macabeu grape (Macabeo in

Spanish), which has always been important in Roussillon.

Muscat also contributes to the originality of Roussillon’s grape

varieties. Outside the AOC areas, winegrowers have also planted

Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

VIN DOUX NATURELRoussillon has always produced full-bodied, often sweet, wines.

This is the result of the natural over-ripening of grapes in

vineyards with modest yields growing in terroirs that receive an

exceptional amount of sun. Such specific production conditions

gave rise to a winemaking tradition that has long attracted the

THE BANYULS WINEGROWING AREA SPREADS OVER FOUR VILLAGE DISTRICTS THATBORDER THE ROCKY COASTLINE OF FRENCH CATALONIA

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naturel wines have precise composition requirements: their

alcohol level must be between 15 and 18% and their residual

sugar content between 50 and over 100 grammes of sugar per

litre.

BANYULS AND BANYULSGRAND CRUThis renowned winegrowing area spreads over four village

districts that border the rocky coastline of French Catalonia:

Collioure, Port-Vendres, Banyuls-sur-Mer and Cerbère. A terroir

of Cambrian schist underlying terraced vineyards that overlook

the Mediterranean gives pride of place to Grenache Noir

(a minimum of 50% in Banyuls and 75% in Banyuls Grand

Cru). Some Banyuls wines that are bottled early are labelled

under the name ‘Rimage’. In the last several years, there has also

been limited production of Banyuls Blanc.


QUALITY FACTORS

attention of different lawmakers seeking to protect its existence,

and when the French appellation classification system was

created in 1935, vin doux naturel was recognised as AOC.

The production of vin doux naturel is subject to draconian

regulation: yields are strictly limited (the harvest must not

exceed 40 hectolitres per hectare of which a maximum of 30

hectolitres can be made into vin doux naturel) and the required

ripeness of the grapes is particularly high, at a minimum of 252

grams of sugar per litre of must, which corresponds to an

alcohol level of more than 14.5 degrees. Only four noble grape

varieties are authorised in the production of vin doux naturel:

Grenache (Blanc, Gris and Noir), Macabeu, Malvoisie and

Muscat (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Muscat of Alexandria).

The fortification is also regulated; only neutral grape spirit can

be used, which must be added during fermentation. All vin doux

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The amazingly bountiful Roussillon


MAURYThis appellation includes schist terroirs north of the Agly Valley

in Maury and its neighbouring districts. The main variety here is

Grenache Noir, which grows in grey Aptian schist.

RIVESALTESThis appellation stretches from the Albères mountains all the

way to Corbières and includes arid, meagre terroirs that result in

very ripe grapes. These are used to produce Rivesaltes Ambré

(amber) and Rivesaltes Tuilé (tawny), each of which can be

classified ‘Hors d'âge’ after being aged for a minimum of five

years. There is also Rivesaltes Grenat (ruby), which is bottled

earlier in order to retain the intense fruit of Grenache Noir.

MUSCAT DE RIVESALTESThe Muscat de Rivesaltes appellation covers all the vin doux

naturel production areas. Only two grape varieties are

authorised in the vineyards of this appellation: Muscat Blanc à

Petits Grains and Muscat of Alexandria. The first Muscat bottled

several weeks after the harvest is authorised to be sold as Muscat

de Noël, or Christmas Muscat.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON AND CÔTES DU ROUSSILLONVILLAGESThese appellations, covering almost 9,000 hectares, are

responsible for almost all of the dry wines in Roussillon. Côtes

du Roussillon runs from Albères to Fenouillèdes and has a

variety of terroirs and microclimates. It mainly produces red

wines, but also has rosés and a few white wines. Côtes du

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON A.C. Domaine Salvat Taïchac 2008D e e p c o l o u r w i t h c r i m s o nhighlights. Profound nose with floralaccents, notes of dark berry fruits andspicy undercurrents. Fleshy, full entry,a wine showcasing fruit and spicearomas. Oak influence is hardlyperceptible. A crunchy style.

88/100

CÔTES CATALANES I.G.P. L'Astre Blanc - Vinifié enfûts de chêne 2010Pale yellow. A mix of citrus notesand touches of vanilla and toast onthe nose. Generous, fat, well-structured and lingering on thepalate. The finish displays a hint offirmness revealing the oak tannins.Drink with fish or white meat.

88/100

VIN DE PAYS DES CÔTES CATALANESLes Terres de Mallyce - Pierres de Lune 2008Deep hue with a purple-blue rim. Extremely pure nosewith crunchy fruit (redcurrant, blackberry,blackcurrant). The palate showsfull-on suppleness and seductivearomatic freshness, generousstuffing and silkiness. Pure fruit isshowcased. A successful effort.

91/100

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGESLATOUR DE FRANCE A.C. Domaine de Rancy 2006 Deep colour. Distinctive nose with accentsof liquorice sweet, catechu pastilles, stonefruits and black olive. Remarkable balanceon the palate combining power, warmthand freshness, all highlighting a range oftell-tale Roussillon aromatics.

92/100

FuLL contAct detAILS For theSe eStAteS cAn Be Found on pAGe 114

GRENACHE NOIR (SHOWN HERE IN BANYULS) IS ONE OF THE EMBLEMATIC VARIETIESOF ROUSSILLON

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or stone pebble terraces that express the terroir’s intrinsic quality.

Its wines are only authorised after two quality control tastings.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLONVILLAGES CARAMANYThe vineyards of this appellation are found in the village districts

of Caramany as well as Cassagnes and Bélesta-de-la-Frontière.

The terroir consists of gneiss, which gives the wines a fleshy,

elegant structure. Another distinguishing feature of this

appellation is its tradition of carbonic maceration.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLONVILLAGES LATOUR-DE-FRANCEThe appellation of Latour-de-France is rather heterogeneous. It

stretches from the schist terroirs of Montner and Planèzes to the

calcareous marl bordering the Agly River.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLONVILLAGES TAUTAVELIn this appellation we find all the classic expressions produced

by limestone terroirs. All along this mountain chain, from

Tautavel, a veritable cradle of prehistory, to the majestic Cirque

de Vingrau, the garrigue landscape is punctuated by pine woods

and vineyards growing in limestone scree. These wines are at

their most expressive after several months or even several years

of maturation.


QUALITY FACTORS

Roussillon Villages exclusively produces red wines from

vineyards found north of the Têt River. This region offers the

biggest diversity of terroirs, which explains why four village

districts have been granted the right to add their name to the

appellation: Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde and

Tautavel. More recently, in Aspres, some red wines have also

been distinguished under the appellation Côtes du Roussillon

Les Aspres.

RED WINESRoussillon’s red wines are rich and varied, offering a choice from

young wines to more structured, full-bodied wines like those of

Côtes du Roussillon Villages. They are made from several grape

varieties, including Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLONLES ASPRESTo obtain the distinction of a specific appellation, the

winegrowers of Aspres chose their best parcels growing on buttes

THE GNEISS TERROIR OF THERECENTLY CREATEDCARAMANY APPELLATION INCÔTES DU ROUSSILLONVILLAGES

THE PRODUCTION OF VINDOUX NATUREL IS SUBJECT

TO DRACONIANREGULATION: THE HARVESTMUST NOT EXCEED 40

HECTOLITRES PER HECTAREOF WHICH A MAXIMUM OF 30HECTOLITRES CAN BE MADEINTO VIN DOUX NATUREL

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The amazingly bountiful Roussillon


CÔTES DU ROUSSILLONVILLAGES LESQUERDEThis is incontestably the most representative appellation of the

elevated area of Fenouillèdes and is characterised by coarse

granite sand soils that are found on the plateau and throughout

the district of Lesquerde.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON WHITESMade from Macabeu grapes harvested ‘green’, Côtes du

Roussillon whites have gradually evolved to offer a diversity that

better asserts their Mediterranean identity thanks to the addition

of Grenache Blanc from old vines. The recent use of other

varieties such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino in the

blends has given rise to more complex wines.

CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON ROSÉSThe production volume of these rosés has been steadily

increasing over the years. Côtes du Roussillon rosés are the

expression of a specific blend of grape varieties in which

Grenache Noir and Syrah are the keystone. The rosés are

produced using the saignée winemaking method, which consists

of bleeding off the juice after several hours of contact with the

skins during maceration. This is one of the reasons why

Roussillon rosés have a more intense colour, often with tints of

peony or fuchsia.

COLLIOURE WINESWith just over 700 hectares of vineyards, this appellation, which

takes its name from the famous Catalan fishing village, is the

smallest in Roussillon. The terroir is exactly the same as AOC

Banyuls, including Collioure, Port-Vendres, Banyuls-sur-Mer and

Cerbère. Its grape varieties are Grenache Noir, Carignan and

Mourvèdre, to which Syrah was added in the last decade. The red

wines are warm and full-bodied and the rosés are powerful with

a vibrant colour. There are also several whites made from

Grenache Blanc and Gris.

Roussillon is a winemaking region that stands apart, whose

wines benefit from exceptional terroirs and demonstrate

incredible diversity. The region’s distinctive Catalan winemaking

identity has been shaped by its remarkable landscape: a natural

amphitheatre facing the Mediterranean Sea that basks in the sun

for over 300 days a year. An enviable set of circumstances! �

AC COLLIOURE (HERE THE CELLIER DESDOMINICAINS) COVERS EXACTLY THE

SAME AREA AS BANYULS

THE INCREDIBLE SCHIST TERROIR OFRASIGUÈRES, WHERE IT SEEMS

MIRACULOUS THAT THE VINES HAVEBEEN ABLE TO GAIN A FOOTHOLD

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DOMAINE CARNEROS, OWNED BY TAITTINGER, IS A CALIFORNIAN WINERY THAT ISSTRIKINGLY REMINISCENT OF THE ARCHITECTURE IN CHAMPAGNE

Americans have enjoyed sparkling wine since the earliest days of the Republic.The country’s founding connoisseur was Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826) whoimported Champagne and Blanquette de Limoux for his own use. Jefferson failedat establishing a wine industry in his native Virginia, but soon after his death,American sparkling wine became a phenomenon that reached even Europe.Made in Ohio in the 1830s to 1850s from the Catawba grape, the sparklers ofNicholas Longfellow gained renown throughout the United States, and in London.


QUALITY FACTORS

Bubble Nation: Sparkling Wine in America

©TAITTINGER

- DOMAINE CARNER

OS



Like all American wines, American bubbly suffered greatlyduring Prohibition (1919-1933). Only 30 years afterProhibition’s repeal was there a revival of the fine

American sparkling industry. In that time, most American bubblywas made either using the bulk Charmat method, or the crudeprocess of infusing still wine with carbon dioxide.

Korbel California Champagne (sic) was an exception to thistrend. Located in Sonoma, Korbel started producing traditionalmethod (méthode traditionelle/méthode champenoise) sparklingwine in the 1890s, and revived production in the late 1930s.Their focus was toward popularly priced bubbly rather than finewines from traditional Champagne grapes such as Chardonnayand Pinot Noir. Korbel exists to this day.

The modern story of the fine American sparkling wine starts in1965, when Jack and Jamie Davies revived the long dormantSchramsberg Vineyards on Diamond Mountain in Napa’sCalistoga region (see the Family Business article in this issue) andmade sparkling wines in the traditional method, usingChardonnay and Pinot Noir, then both rare in California. Whenthey released their first wine in 1967, made from Chardonnaypurchased in 1965, they called it “Schramsberg VineyardsChampagne Blanc de Blancs.” The wine received enthusiasticresponse and piqued the interest of other potential producers.

Before a 2006 agreement with the European Union regardingplace names, many American sparkling wine producers routinelydescribed their wines as “Champagne.” While Champagneproducers were upset by the misappropriation of their identity,California intrigued many of the Champagne’s grande marqueproducers. Since 1973, a number of Champagne houses haveestablished themselves in California: Domaine Chandon (Moët& Chandon), Mumm Napa, Piper Sonoma (Piper-Hiedsieck),Roederer Estate (Louis Roederer), and Domaine Carneros(Taittinger). In 1986, the Ferrer family of Spain’s Freixenet groupstarted Gloria Ferrer cellars. In addition to Schramsberg notedabove, important California producers include Iron HorseVineyards, J Vineyards, Scharffenberger and a few smallerwineries.

While thoroughly American sparkling wine producers startedabout the same time, it is safe to say that the French investmentcreated a sense of seriousness to American sparkling wine. SaidEileen Crane, chief winemaker at Domaine Carneros, “The ideaof American sparkling wine only really took off after the entry of theFrench into production. In the market, the French gave it legitimacy,and they created a buzz among journalists and the public.”

Of course, French houses had larger resources, both financial andexpertise. But, as the Champenoises never failed to emphasise, you

can’t make Champagne in California. Champagne has enjoyedsome three hundred years to understand its terroir, California hashad only decades. Chandon’s winery was established, and earliestvineyards planted, in Yountville, a warm section of Napa. Sincethen, Chandon established vineyards and grape sources fromother regions, including mountain vineyards in Napa, and atcooler places, especially Carneros.

The quest for cool climate areas has led sparkling winemakerstoward the water. Carneros, straddling the northern edge of SanFrancisco Bay and in both Napa and Sonoma counties, is favouredby Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialists. So too, is Sonoma’sRussian River Valley (and subregion Green Valley) andMendocino’s Anderson Valley. The combination of cold Pacific

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ARNAUD WEYRICH, THE ROEDERER ESTATE WINEMAKER

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ROEDERER ESTATE: A "CHAMPAGNE-LIKE"SPARKLING HOUSE FROM CALIFORNIA


QUALITY FACTORS

air and heat from California’s hot Central Valley creates a vacuumeffect that sucks cool fog rolls over vineyards in late afternoonand remains until late morning throughout the long growingseason - in some places, six weeks longer than in Champagne.

American sparkling wine isn’t limited to California. The coolclimate that allows Oregon to grow superb Chardonnay andPinot Noir for still wines offers clement conditions for sparklers,too. Argyle Winery is a standout. Two New York State regionsmake fine sparkling wine: the Finger Lakes, known for Rieslingand Gewürztraminer, and Long Island, known for Atlantic grapevarieties. On Long Island, Lenz on the North Fork and Wolffer inthe Hamptons are noteworthy. L. Mawby on Michigan’s LeelanauPeninsula produces some unexpectedly good sparklers. Itsproximity to two of the Great Lakes moderates the effects of whatwould otherwise be bitter cold from the Canadian Arctic. Mostsurprisingly, perhaps, is the quality of Gruet Winery’s sparklingwine from the high desert of New Mexico. Like many of the

California wineries above, Gruet was founded by a champenoisefamily (Champagne Gruet et Fils/Paul Laurent). Biltmore Wineryin North Carolina and Trump Winery (formerly Kluge) inVirginia produce good bubbly as well.

Regardless of the state, well-developed fruit flavours are a hallmarkof American sparkling wines. Asked the difference betweenChampagne and American sparkling wine, Joy Sterling, proprietor(with her brother) of Iron Horse Vineyards in Sonoma’s Green Valleysays without hesitation, “The fruit.” She continues, “The momentyou can really taste the difference is right after disgorgement. Atthat point, Champagne is gripping and abstract, clearly an unfinishedproduct. At the same junction, California sparkling wine tasteslike Chardonnay [or] Pinot Noir. It just has that natural balance.For California, the role of dosage is a seasoning rather than amain ingredient. Dosage gives stylistic options, orchestration.Without it, California would be an a cappella choir. It can do iton its own.”

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EILEEN CRANE, CHIEF WINEMAKER AT DOMAINE CARNEROS : “THE IDEA OF AMERICAN SPARKLING WINE ONLY REALLY TOOK OFF AFTER THE

ENTRY OF THE FRENCH INTO PRODUCTION”

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is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as no more

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GLORIA FERRER Despite the Spanish connection, Carneros-grown Pinot Noir andChardonnay prevail over traditional Cava grapes. The RoyalCuvée Brut 2004 is sumptuous and full bodied, with ripe berry,apricot and citrus flavours kept clean by fine minerals and highacidity. Ten years of lees-ageing brings gingery richness to theCarneros Cuvée 2000, with mouth-watering mango, apple, andspicy orange notes.

IRON HORSE Fruit is part of the mantra here, but it is balanced by fresh acidityand minerality. The basic level brut wines show appealing herband fruit flavours, and the X Brut 2006, an ultra brut wine, is delicatebut austere. To the contrary are the Brut LD 2003, a late disgorged

wine and the remarkable Joy, a Blanc de Blancs that spent 13years on the lees. Despite its age, the wine is remarkably fresh,with lemon zest and almond aromas, combined with freshpeach, delicate herb and flower notes on the palate. The winebelongs in the company of great Champagnes.

LENZ From his winery on Long Island’s North Fork, winemaker Eric Fryidentifies himself as an “acidhead.” Things are certainly zippy inhis compellingly dry and austere Cuvée Brut 2005 which hints ofwild strawberries growing through a patch of minerals.

L. MAWBYMaking only sparkling wine on Michigan’s Leenalau Peninsula,L. Mawby is one of the U.S.’s unexpected vinous gems. The Blancde Blancs Cuvée 172 Brut is a wine fine of bubble, with candied

There is a perception that since the wines of America are generallyfruitier than those of France, its sparkling wines will show higherlevels of residual sugar and lower levels of acidity compared toChampagne. While popularly priced brut cuvées (under $20/bottle)might be on the higher levels of dosage for the category (as aremany mass market Champagnes), American sparkling wines donot skew in either direction. Often, average dosage is lower thanin Champagne, the result of more developed fruit flavours fromAmerican vineyards.

However, the proof is in the tasting. Here are some impressions:

DOMAINE CARNEROS Domaine Carneros is an American winery, but its French connectionis clear, both by its Carneros home inspired by Taittingers’s 18thcentury Château de la Marquetterie in Champagne and the je nesais quoi of its winemaking. Both the vintage brut 2007 andnon-vintage brut rosé are graceful wines, a touch on the generousside of dosage, but balanced by crisp acidity. The prestige wine,Le Rêve, is inspired by Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne Blancde Blancs. The 2005 is a sumptuous wine with pear and hazelnutflavours mingled with citrus notes, superbly balanced.

DOMAINE CHANDON Classic line wines are fruity but are well made. Etoile, the cuvéeprestige that has been aged on the lees for five years, offers seductivebiscuit and smoky notes. This is a richly styled wine that showscomplexity one might expect from a reserve level Champagne.

DOMAINE CARNEROS, INSPIRED BYTAITTINGERS’S 18TH CENTURY CHÂTEAUDE LA MARQUETTERIE IN CHAMPAGNE


QUALITY FACTORS

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©L.G. STERLING IRON HORSE VINEYARDS

JOY AND LAURENCE STERLING, FROM IRON HORSE VINEYARDS


ROEDERER ESTATEIf there was a competition for the most “Champagne-like”California sparkling house, then Roederer Estate would be aneasy winner. True, the fruit flavours are more round than LouisRoederer’s in Champagne, but there is an unmistakableChampagne-like sensibility when it comes to restraint, balance,and pleasure. Roederer’s Brut Rosé is a standout with hints ofberry and bergamot. The top wine, L’Ermitage 2003, might notbe as opulent as Cuvée Cristal, but it is cut from the same cloth:creamy, complex, and luxurious.

SCHRAMSBERGThe pioneers of America’s fine sparkling wine industry showverve in all their wines. Their largest production is of vintage brutincluding Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs and Brut Rosé, withtwo to three years tirage. J. Schram 2004 Brut, their tête de cuvée,is excellent, with a savoury rather than fruit profile. Eight years oflees aging show soya and olive oil notes with hints of driedorange peel, white flowers, almonds and dry spice.

WOLFFER ESTATELocated in New York’s stylish Hamptons, Wolffer’s millionaireneighbours can drink local. The Blanc de Blanc 2007 offerspeppery herb and hazelnut notes and a hint of apricots. TheNoblesse Oblige Rosé 2007 is a faintly pink in colour withyellow and red fruit notes and a hint of wood that comes from atouch of oak-aged merlot. Jamal Rayyis


IRON HORSE IS LOCATED IN GREENVALLEY IN THE COOLEST, FOGGIEST PART

OF THE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY

LARRY MAWBY MAKES ONLY SPARKLINGWINE ON MICHIGAN’S LEENALAU PENINSULA

THE L. MAWBY VINEYARDS UNDER SNOW DURING WINTER

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©L.G. STERLING IRON HORSE VINEYARDS

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almond, vanilla, and zesty tropical fruit flavours. Mawby’sCremant Classic is 100% barrel-aged Vignoles, a French-American hybrid. The nose is musky with pignon-like nuttinessand some lemon notes that broaden in the mouth toward tangerineand loquat flavours.

MUMMNapa: Like Chandon, Mumm Napa’s basic bruts are popular, wellmade, a tad high in dosage, and a fine buy at under $15. Mumm’stop wine DVX is a study in finesse, with mixed citrus, snappy apple,light floral notes underlined by fine minerals and fresh acidity.


LA SCENE

www.louonvine.com

Lou on Vine -Hollywood Terroir

Lou’s on Vine is whereHollywood goes to drink wineamong the stars. Not muchmore than a stone’s throwfrom Paramount Studios,Lou’s is filled with them. Starsinclude folks like ElisabettaForadori of the Alto Adige whois responsible for the renaissance of theTeroldego grape, Tom Lubbe of Roussillon’sfamed Matassa winery, Jared and TracyBrandt, producers of California’s Donkeyand Goat wines that have achieved almostcult-like status, or other luminaries in theworld of small production, often ”natural”or biodynamic wines, either represented onLou’s wine list, or, hosted in house any timethey pass through Los Angeles. That some ofLou’s enthusiasts might also beHollywood celebrities is beside the point.

Lou’s is not a place one goes to be seen, itis a place to partake in the pleasures ofBacchus in the company of other denizensof the grape.

Located in the corner of a strip-mall, next toa laundromat, Lou’s is a perfect representativeof contemporary Hollywood, gritty on theoutside, relaxed and engaging on the inside.Its setting and décor recalls a combinationof a bistro de terroir and a post-modernversion of a Hollywood lounge circa 1973,

although rather than snorting lines of coke,

one is inclined to swirl, sniff, and swallow

wines like a 2002 Cazin Cour-Cheverny,

Léon Barral’s Valinère Faugères, or a

Hungarian Kadarka.

Owner Lou Amdur started his eponymousbar in 2006, with a mission to championwines made as naturally as possible usingtraditional techniques, and, often, from raregrape varieties. He also pays homage towinemakers who seek authenticity rather

Jamal Rayyis

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At Lou's terroir-tastic wine bar, the accent is firmly on authenticity.

Lou on Vine724 Vine Street Los Angeles CA 90038Tel. +1 323 962 6369Hours: Monday - Saturday 6 pm - 12 amwww.louonvine.com

The world-famous Hol lywood s ign

LA SCENE


than following international fashion andpursuing high Parker scores. Smack in themiddle of a city known for paparazzi flash,plastic surgery and fleeting fame, Lou reveresthe salt of the earth.

Lou’s is really more a wine-oriented restaurantthan a wine bar. Nonetheless, all of theestablishment’s thirty-odd wines are availableby the 2oz taste, 5 oz glass, or by the bottle.The offerings change three to five times perweek, as supplies of decidedly small-production wines dwindle, or Lou decidesthat he just wants to drink somethingdifferent. And different it will be. Lou’s isnot a place to find the hottest Napa Cab orGrand Cru Bordeaux, though, if the whimstrikes, it is possible one might be on the liston any particular day. Rather, it is a place to

be challenged, surprised, and delighted. Onemight find an amphora-elaborated Rkasitelifrom Georgia, a Poulsard from the Jura, aDuras from Fronton, even a despisedValdiguié from some forgotten valley inCalifornia.

Lou also honours local farmers and artisanalfood producers, cheesemakers, charcutiersand mill owners through an enthusiastically-conceived, eclectic menu not often seen in a

land where tofu is considered a basic foodgroup. The ever-changing menu is liable tooffer Italian wild boar sausage, roast breast ofguinea fowl, or a grilled antelope chop. OnMonday evenings, Lou hosts a prix-fixe foodand wine supper that might be centered onthe harvest of a beloved farmer or the whimsof a particular winemaker (or restaurantowner). A dinner last spring focused on aremarkable diversity of Tokaji wines.Another celebrated meats of a nearby ranch.

For more casual diners, there are farmhousecheeses, charcuterie, and a selection of otherwine- (and beer - a careful selection of that,too) friendly snacks, including the housespecialty, Pig Candy.

A gentle host, Lou offers guests his thoughtson food, wine, and the diverse experiences oflife in Los Angeles both in person andthrough his regularly maintained blog.http://www.louonvine.com/?cat=20.

The chef sources most of the produce f rom the Santa Monica Farmers Markets

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Lou is located in a c lassy st r ip mal l at 724 Vine Street in Hol lywood, r ight next to the laundromat!

Lou changes his wine l ist f requent ly, three to four t imes a week


TRAVEL

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ON THE WINE TRAIL IN

Kentucky

KENTUCKY’S WINE COUNTRY IS INTENSELYGREEN, AS IT RECEIVES SIGNIFICANTRAINFALL THROUGHOUT THE YEAR

America’s commercial wine industry was born not in California, but inKentucky. The ‘First Vineyard’ was planted there in 1798 by the winemaker forthe Marquis de Lafayette, a French general who fought in the American War ofIndependence. In the century that followed, Kentucky became America’s third-largest wine-producing state. Although Prohibition in the 1920s put an end tothe industry, today winegrowing in Kentucky is again flourishing: the numberof producers has increased from 4 to 70 in the last decade.

On the wine trail in Kentucky


WINE PIONEER JERRY KUSHNER,BROAD RUN VINEYARDS

RIESLING IS ONE OF THE WHITE VARIETIES SUCCESSFULLY

CULTIVATED IN KENTUCKY

Due to the disastrous effects of phylloxera andProhibition, for generations not a drop of wine wasproduced by the once-flourishing wine industry in

this green, central and sparsely populated state (the size of theNetherlands and Belgium combined, Kentucky has a populationof only 4.3 million). It was only in the 1980s that some intrepidgrowers began to replant grapevines.

Jerry Kushner, a former engineer at General Electric (he worked onthe simulation of the first spacewalk) and wine enthusiast, was oneof the pioneers. In 1983, he created an experimental vineyard nearLouisville, planting about 20 different European varieties, as well asFrench-American hybrids. His goal was to empirically determinewhich could survive the harsh Kentucky climate and producehealthy grapes. The state’s climate is characterised by icy winters,with other unfavourable winegrowing conditions including rainduring the warm growing season, and late-spring and early-autumnfrosts. Miraculously, almost all the varieties did well, even the morefragile European ones such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.Nine years later, the retired Kushner decided to start a commercialwinery, Broad Run. Its vineyards, covering 10.5 hectares, are plantedin the limestone subsoil typical of Kentucky.

RIPE WINESThose who find their way to Broad Run Vineyards, nestled in alandscape of low, lush hills, will be encouraged to taste the entirerange of wines, with exhaustive explanations given by the ownerhimself. The winemaker shuns most hybrids and American varieties,recommended by the University of Kentucky, in his conviction that

they result in the least attractive wines. The relative old age of thewines we tasted was striking: the youngest white wine was from2005, and the youngest red from 2006. According to Kushner, thisis made possible by the high acidity of the soil, which gives thegrapes, and thus the wines, good freshness. True enough, the 2002Broad Run Chardonnay (not barrel-aged) was still lively and evensomewhat reminiscent of a Burgundy. The 2005 Riesling, with plentyof citrus and just half a percent of residual sugar, was particularlypleasing. However, almost all of the reds have been aged too longfor European tastes. It would have been interesting to taste them afew years earlier. Only the 1999 and 2004 Cabernet SauvignonReserve, both barrel-aged for 18 months, won us over and temptedus to try them with a tender steak.

SWEET BESTSELLERSMany of the Kentucky dry wines we tasted were ripe, or even overripe.But the state’s speciality is its bestselling sweet wines. Most winedrinkers in Kentucky – a state in which it is illegal for wine to besold by supermarkets – grew up with sodas and sweet iced tea. As aconsequence, many producers still have up to four years of productionin stock. Jerry Kushner told us, “Our tanks are full.”

Eddie O’Daniel, another of Kentucky’s wine pioneers, got to knowwine as a soldier in the Mediterranean as well as in Napa Valley. HisSpringhill Winery borders the Bluegrass Parkway, which brings hima lot of visitors. About 20 years ago, he wanted to order vines fromsome well-known growers in other states, who told him, “We can’t

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help you because we’ve never shipped vines to Kentucky before.”O’Daniel, who is working on a book about the region’s wine history,then chose some varieties by guesswork. Zinfandel, Pinot Noir andMuscadine (‘Kentucky is too far north for this sweet hybrid’) werenot suitable, but the others did well, particularly the more resistantvarieties such as Vidal and Seyval white wine grapes.

WELCOMING VISITORSIt is notable how many of Kentucky’s wine producers have subsidiaryactivities. At the Springhill Winery Bed & Breakfast, you can stay inone of four luxury suites named after grape varieties. EddieO’Daniel’s son Ben is behind the Jean Farris Winery, where he runsa popular restaurant with his wife, “because wines taste better withfood, and that’s what we want people to experience.” The premiumwine of this young winery (established in 2006) is Tempest,composed of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and CabernetFranc. It is smooth, with a palate of blackberry and notes of oak.The Jean Farris Winery also has a very pleasant moderately spicyViognier that undergoes a short period of barrel aging. “It’s a challengeto cultivate Viognier in Kentucky,” admits Ben. The winery’s grapescome from its own vineyard, which covers 4 hectares, or are boughtin from the same area.

GROWER-PRODUCERSApart from its 70 registered wine producers, Kentucky counts about100 winegrowers. One of the biggest, which produces wine from anincreasing part of its harvest, is Lovers Leap near Lawrenceburg(south of the district capital Frankfort). The vineyard is on a plateauabove the Kentucky River and spreads over 12 hectares. SinceSeptember 2008, the estate has belonged to Logan Leet, who not onlytakes meticulous care of his own vineyard, but looks after severalothers as well. He also supplies other wineries with both grapes andwine. With his own Lovers Leap wines, he hopes to become “theproducer of dry Kentucky wines. Perhaps not the most intelligentobjective, but I prefer dry wines.” We tasted an appealing VidalBlanc (served out of a blue bottle), which was characterised by citrus

and green apple with some sweet notes, as well as the gold-medal2008 Cynthiana (Norton), which was dark and massive, withanimal and berry notes. The perfectly representative 2009 ‘G’Gewürztraminer was also awarded with gold.

INVENTIVE SOLUTIONSTo reach the Horseshoe Bend Winery, somewhere in the centre ofthe state near Willisburg, you’d better consult a good map (so notMapquest, which repeatedly gave us the wrong information) andfollow a winding road that gradually becomes more and morenarrow. But once there, you’ll agree the trip is worth it. The formeradvertising executive Greg Karsner has been making several verygood wines there for two years, and this summer he opened a tastingroom. The small vineyard originally planted by his parents was justover 5 hectares, but it is now less than half that size. It is located ina microclimate with moderate conditions. Generally, the harvesttakes place about a month later than elsewhere in Kentucky. Karsneraffirms, “sometimes we pick our Cabernet Sauvignon only at theend of October.”

The biggest threats to the grapes are deer, raccoons and especiallybirds. Of course, nets could be used to protect the vines, but Karsner

LOGAN LEET, ONE OF KENTUCKY’SBIGGEST WINEGROWERS, IN FRONT OF

ONE OF HIS NORTON VINES

CYNTHIA BOHN OF EQUUS RUN©

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On the wine trail in Kentucky


doesn’t find that an aesthetic solution. He prefers to scare offforaging animals by placing balloons with owl eyes painted onthem around the vineyard and making noise by firing a shot everythree hours.

Karsner hopes to increase his current annual production of 2,600cases to 10,000 cases. This of course will only be possible if he buysin grapes from elsewhere. The quality of Horseshoe Bend winesjustifies Greg’s optimism. Among others, we tasted a seductive,spicy and fruity Cabernet rosé, a lively Vidal Blanc, an appealingChardonnay made with oak chips, a full-bodied Reserve red(Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chambourcin and Norton), andGoldenrod, a honeylike, rich, sweet wine made from Vidal Blanc.

A STATE OENOLOGIST The state of Kentucky employs an oenologist, which is very usefulsince the vast majority of its winegrowers started without any priortraining and thus require technical advice. In our tastings, werepeatedly encountered wines with imperfections: too oaky, toomuch volatile acid, lack of fruit or freshness, or the presence ofimpurities. These are all likely to be the result of lack of productionexperience. Often we were served oxidised wines from bottles thathad been open for several days and were not protected againstoxygen. That sometimes made it difficult to evaluate the wines.

This was the case at Equus Run, a prosperous estate enthusiasticallymanaged by Cynthia Bohn. After an international career at IBM, shestarted her winery - the third-biggest at that time - near Lexington.Like most novices, she obtained subventions provided by the stateof Kentucky to compensate for the decline in tobacco cultivation.

Equus Run supplies specially labelled wines for the KentuckyDerby. Some of their grapes come from their own vineyards orfrom other regional growers, but half of their wines are producedwith grapes from California, Indiana and other states. OtherKentucky wineries also obtain part of their grapes from elsewhere,simply because state growers are unable to provide sufficientquantities yet.

LARGEST WINERYIn a state with a host of other attractions - from museums to horseriding, natural wonders such as enormous caves to a BourbonTrail - if there is one winery to be visited, it is Elk Creek Vineyards.Lost in the countryside somewhere north of Lexington, it bringsto mind the wineries of California, with its huge wooden tastingroom, a shop and restaurant, an ample terrace, a contemporarywine cellar and a vaulted barrel cellar. Not to mention a 3,000-person-capacity amphitheatre for summer concerts, a large villafor lodging and a shooting range for pigeons.

JEAN FARRIS

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GREG KARSNER OF HORSESHOE BENDGAVE UP ADVERTISING FOR WINEMAKING

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MORE INFORMATIONAll the wineries mentioned have their own websites.

More information about Kentucky wines can be found atwww.kentuckywine.com; tourist information can be found at

www.kentuckytourism.com. In 2010, the World Equestrian Games took place in Lexington,

Kentucky, the first time they were held outside Europe.

KENTUCKYRECOMMENDED WINES

From all visited wineries

BROAD RUNRiesling Chardonnay Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

CHRISMAN MILLNorton

ELK CREEKEstate Chardonelle Estate Chambourcin

EQUUS RUNRiesling 2008 (moderatelysweet)

JEAN FARRISViognier Tempest (red)

HORSESHOE BENDVidal Blanc Chardonnay Cabernet rosé Reserve (red)Goldenrod

LOVERS LEAPVidal Blanc ‘G’ Gewürztraminer Cynthiana

PURPLE TOADChardonnay Cabernet Franc

TALONMonarch (red)

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Producing approximately 17,500 cases a year, Elk Creek Vineyardsis by far Kentucky’s biggest wine producer and, as owner CurtisSegretto is used to saying, “the best, too”. In order to sell his wine,the businessman, who made his fortune with a chain calledHalloween Express, opened wine shops in three regional shoppingmalls. To produce this volume, he buys grapes and wines fromcentral California and Washington. The winery also makes wines

JUNE AND ALLEN DOSSEY OF THE UP-AND-COMING PURPLE TOAD WINERY

THE IMPRESSIVE VISITOR’S COMPLEX AT ELK CREEK VINEYARDS,

IN THE NORTH OF THE STATE

from its own vineyard - at over 19 hectares it is the biggest in thestate and counts for almost 10% of Kentucky’s total vineyards.Several of the estate’s wines are appealing, for example, a surprisinglyelegant Chardonelle (from the Chardonel grape) and a barrel-agedChambourcin with generous black fruits. However, its wines madefrom the sweet, simple Concord grape sell as much as all otherElk Creek wines put together.

FROM GOLF TO GRAPESOne producer who hopes one day to equal the success of Elk Creekis located just outside Paducah (known for its quilt museum) in theextreme southwest. There, nine years ago, Allen Dossey turned theformer driving range of a golf course into a small vineyard plantedmostly with Chardonnay. He named the estate Purple Toad Winery.His wines, particularly the sweet ones, are very enthusiasticallyreceived; they so frequently win medals (almost 40 in 2011) thatthey rapidly sell out. Allen Dossey and his wife June are not fansof overly oaky aromas, which are present in their wines, but wellcontrolled. Their Cabernet Franc is smooth with berry flavours, andtheir Chardonnay tastes of mild citrus fruit. Both represent themany treats to discover in this state’s wine revival.

Text and photography: Hubrecht Duijkerwww.hubrechtduijker.com

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FAMILY BUSINESS

www.schramsberg.com

The Davies Family/Schramsberg Vineyards

TODAY, YOUNGEST SON HUGH RUNS THE BUSINESS

The Davies family, owners of Schramsberg Vineyards, were among Napa’s modernpioneers. In 1965, Jack and Jamie Davies purchased the defunct Schramsberg winery,

established in the 19th century in Napa’s warm Calistogasubregion. They had two young sons and a third on the way.

Schrambserg earned fame inthe 1880s for its still wines,but the Davies focused on

sparkling wine made by the traditionalmethod (méthode champenoise, asit was then known). The familyplanted its own Chardonnay and

Pinot Noir, a radical moveat the time because littleof either grape was beingcultivated in California. In1965 they made their firstBlanc de Blancs usingpurchased grapes. Two yearslater, they created anotherwine, a vintage-dated Blanc deNoirs Brut from Pinot Noir-thefirst in the United States.

Like others in the 1960s and early 1970s, the Davies struggled atfirst. Little attention was paid to Napa wine. With only 20 wineriesin 1965, there wasn’t a lot of it (there are now over 400 wineriesin Napa). Recognition came in 1972, when President RichardNixon and Chinese Premier Chou En Lai toasted the establishmentof Chinese-American relations with a glass of Schramsberg Blancde Blancs.

Success allowed Schramsberg to evolve. Wines were given longerageing on the lees (tirage). Barrel fermentation was introduced.Reserve and prestige wines were created. By the 1980s, the Daviesdecided their Calistoga vineyards were too warm to grow greatChardonnay and Pinot Noir. They began sourcing grapes fromcooler areas, such as the Sonoma Coast, Marin, and Mendocino’sAnderson Valley. They planted vineyards in Carneros, at the top

Hugh Davies & his fami ly


The Davies Family/Schramsberg Vineyards

THE DAVIES FAMILY, OWNERS OF SCHRAMSBERG VINEYARDS, WERE AMONG NAPA’S MODERN PIONEERS

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Today, Hugh, aged 46, continues running the business. Salesflattened during the financial crisis but picked up in 2009. Today,the winery produces 62,000 nine-litre cases of sparkling wineannually, 2,600 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, and 600 cases ofPinot Noir. Hugh Davies is philosophical about the future ofSchramsberg: “A family business is like a relay race in which youdon’t know how many laps you have. You just run as long as youcan.”

Hugh has three young boys but Bill Davies’ 19-year-old son hasalready spent two summers at the winery. “It would be great if hemaintains an interest,” said Hugh. “But it’s important to thinkabout what’s good for the workers, the salespeople, and otherswho rely on Schramsberg. Everyone needs to feel good aboutit. That’s the key to moving forward.”

Jamal Rayyis

SCHRAMSBERG VINEYARDS1400 Schramsberg Road - Calistoga, CA 94515

Tel. +1 707 942 4558www.schramsberg.com

of San Francisco Bay. In 1994, the Davies converted theirDiamond Mountain vineyards to red Bordeaux varieties. Theyreleased J. Davies Cabernet in 1996.

Jack and Jamie Davies then faced a new challenge: succession.Family and heritage were meaningful to them - they raised theirsons on the property and they honoured Jacob Schram, whoestablished a winery there, by naming their top wine (J. SchramBrut) after him. Jack’s and Jamie’s eldest son Bill handled salesand marketing for the winery. John, a financier, worked in theformer Soviet Union. Hugh, the youngest, studied winemaking atthe University of California Davis; in 1996, he joinedSchramsberg’s winemaking staff.

In the tradition of widows of Champagne, Jamie took controlafter Jack died in 1998. After two years, Hugh became head wine-maker, and, in 2005, CEO. It seemed natural that Hugh wouldtake the reins. As Jamie’s health failed, rumbles of dissent rosefrom John Davies, who claimed he had been cut out of shares hewas entitled to. They went to court and reached a settlement in2008, after Jamie’s death. Bill, who owns a gourmet business inVirginia, remains on Schramsberg’s board.


QUALITY FACTORS

It is no coincidence that the Italians have a passion for sparkling wines.

Not only are they a major Champagne-drinking nation - as

Champagne’s fifth-largest importer with 7.2 million bottles in 2010 -

they are also leading producers of world-famous sparkling wines,

spearheaded by Prosecco. The 2011 harvest produced 1.5 million

hectolitres or 200 million bottles of Prosecco. So, no, Italy is not only

home to red wines but also superlative whites, both still and sparkling.

Art-house sparkling wines, Italian style

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Many globe-trotting Italianstravelled to Champagneand then strove to apply

the same famous traditional method ofmaking sparkling wines to their home-grown products. One such trailblazerwas Giulio Ferrari at the turn of the lastcentury in the Trento region, thesecond-oldest sparkling wineappellation after AC Champagne. Asrecently as 50 years ago in Lombardy,specifically in Franciacorta, not farfrom Lake Iseo, other producers alsocreated sparkling wines using thetraditional method based on thevinification of Chardonnay and/orPinot Noir to make whites, andsometimes rosés using the saignéemethod. This year, sales inFranciacorta rose by 16.7 % with anaverage price in the range of 23euros, compared with 10 % forTrentodoc. The majority of the winesare sold in Italy, with 7 and 10 % ofwines respectively shipped abroad.

In 2011, total output stands at around11 million bottles produced by some120 p roduce r s , compared wi thapproximately 8.5 million bottles forTrentodoc , the umbre l la b randcurrently used by 37 producers. Two leading lights represent theappellations Trentodoc and Franciacorta - respectively the Ferrariand Berlucchi estates - both of which alone account for some 5million bottles. 95 % of Trentodoc wines are made by the fourlargest regional structures: Ferrari,Rotari , Cavit and Cesarini Sforzaspumanti. There are many small familyfa rms which , par t i cu la r ly in theTrentodoc appellation, still have thecapacity to increase production two-foldas the area under vine covers only 50percent of the total area and they onlyproduce 12 % of Italy’s sparkling wines.Champagne, with its average annualproduction of around 300 millionbottles, therefore has nothing to fear.The only real challenger is DOC Proseccowhich was recently extended to 556districts and, with its more prestigiousappellation Valdobbiadene DOCG

(covering just 15 districts), should reach anannual output of approximately 250million bottles within the next two years.

NICHE SPARKLINGWINESVolume issues aside, the two appellationsFranciacorta and Trentodoc deliverquality wines that are every bit asworthwhile as Champagne. Climaticconditions and the growing environmentfor wines from Trentino - home to theTrentodoc appellation - and strictproduction rules in Franciacorta ensurehigh standards for these niche winesdesigned for wine lovers in search ofarchetypal Italian sparklers. Like thefamous sweet sparkling Asti Spumante,which makes an ideal pudding wine,Prosecco is made using the Charmatp r o c e s s , w h e r e b y t h e s e c o n dfermentation takes place in pressurisedtanks; it is an unrivalled aperitif wine,well-suited to low budgets. In recenttimes, Valdobbiadene has become hometo sparkling wines made using thetraditional method - i.e. with a secondfermentation in the bottle - particularlyby the Valdo Spumanti estate, the

appellation’s oldest sparkling wine producer along with CarpenèMalvoti. Today’s Italian wine drinker can therefore choose froman extensive range of Italian-made sparkling wines thatgenerally provide a cheaper alternative to Champagne.

QUALITYAND PRESTIGEIN THE BOTTLEWho hasn’t, from a distance, mistaken abottle of Franciacorta Bellavista wrappedin its transparent packaging with a well-known brand of Champagne? Franciacortaand Trentodoc are not only seriouschallengers in terms of quality but also fort h e i r b r a n d i m a g e . M a d e f r o m apredominant proportion of Chardonnaywith a dash of Pinot Noir, these archetypalwines vie for a place on Italian tablesduring the festive season. They are aged for

TRENTODOC IS AN UMBRELLABRAND WHICH PRODUCES

8.5 MILLION BOTTLES


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Delphine lives between Milan and

Paris. She has a PhD in economics

from the University of

Paris-Dauphine and holds a

qualification from the Wine & Spirit

Education Trust in London.

She heads the Italian

office of Gilbert & Gaillard.

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BY DELPHINE VEISSIÈRE

setting, where vines are grown anywhere up to 800 metres abovesea level, particularly in Val di Cembra. Primarily fruit-driven,Trentodoc wines display an extremely pure bouquet of herbsand exotic or white-fleshed fruits. Their palate is full and freshand unfurls creamy, fruity and spicy flavours capped off withmild almond, and great savoury, focused minerality.

Versatile and showing great finesse, the best Trentodoc wines are

often labelled ‘riserva’ (after a minimum 36 months’ ageing)

and were made in cool years like 2002 or particularly well-

balanced vintages such as 2005, 2006, 2001 and 1991.

Conversely, hotter, drier years like 1998, 2000, 2003 and 2007

yielded richer wines less conducive to ageing. They did however

retain higher acidity levels than in Franciacorta due to significant

temperature differences between day and night. The dry Giulio

Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 1991 is an authentic rendition of

the Trentodoc style of excellence and still develops impressive

freshness coupled with notes of fresh and mature citrus fruits

(mandarin) framed by saffron-scented Normandy cream. The

dry 2001 vintage is currently on sale. The Ferrari portfolio reveals

a style that is both unique yet international, which differentiates

it from other Trentodoc wines. These tend to be more artisan in

style, showing typical Trentino characteristics and even the slight

imperfections that recall the sometimes risky choices made by

the smaller Champagne growers.


QUALITY FACTORS

a minimum duration of 24 months. This imparts complexity forboth appellations which is enriched with aromas of brioche andbread crust developed through autolysis or “auto-digestion” ofthe yeast contained in the yeast-sugar blend. This process occursduring the second fermentation, on average 15 months after thefirst. The much younger Franciacorta DOCG has successfullydeveloped a highly prestigious brand image through leadinghouses such as Bellavista and Ca’ Del Bosco, whose wines reflectgreat elegance. The Anna Maria Clementi cuvee from Ca’ delBosco deserves to be classed among the world’s greatestsparkling wines. The wines of Trentodoc are more authentic andexpress the quintessential features imparted by their mountain

CESARINI SFORZA SPUMANTI IS ONE OF THE FOUR LARGEST REGIONAL STRUCTURES

IN THE TRENTODOC APPELLATION

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FERRARI INVARIABLY PRODUCES CLASSICAND ELEGANT WINES. HERE FROM L - R:

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honey and a final menthol-like and herb component. Examples

of this include Cesarini Sforza’s dry Aquila Reale riserva 2003,

the extra-dry Tridentum 2004 or Altemasi de Cavit’s dry Graal

Riserva 2004, which is silky yet complex. The great classicism of

Ferrari’s invariably elegant wines (closer in style to the

Champagnes of the 1960s) is in this way different to the other

Trentodoc ‘riservas’ mentioned above; it more closely mirrors its

terroir and its inherent characteristics. The Giulio Ferrari Riserva

del Fondatore 1994 reflects this divide as it revolves more

around minerality and yeast descriptors than fruit. In fact the

fruit is naturally reticent due to the hot, wet weather during the


QUALITY FACTORS

ELEGANCE AND CLASSICISMA vertical tasting at the Palazzo Regionale in Trento, home to the

regional cellar, revealed that the other estates presenting their

‘riservas’ (Altemasi de Cavit, Abate Nero, Methius and Mach)

make more fruit-focused wines whose characteristics are less

dictated by the scents and flavours derived from the selected

yeasts needed for the second fermentation. They do not obscure

the aromas and allow for more honest fruit expression. The fruit

can sometimes be candied and coupled with tertiary notes of

chocolate and brown tobacco, alongside beeswax, chestnut

TRENTODOC NOW INCLUDES 37 PRODUCERS MAKING 8.5 MILLION BOTTLES©

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harvest. It may even be that these characteristics are derived from

over-exposure of the selected grapes to sunlight, which

consequently developed the notes of hydrocarbon cherished by

serious wine lovers as part of a natural, defensive reaction.

A FIRMLY-ROOTEDREPUTATIONIn Italy, Franciacorta’s reputation as a producer of prestige

sparkling wines is unquestionable and often compared

nationally to Champagne’s global reputation. It has to be said

though that, despite this, the quality of spumante from

Franciacorta can vary significantly from one year to the next, due

to the fact that it has neither the continental climate or the day-

night temperature differences witnessed in the hills of Trentino.

Only the highest estates (for instance Ca’ del Bosco) and those

facing north (the villages of Erbusco, Adr, Ronco, Provaglio

d’Iseo, Corte Franca and Persaga) enjoy cool air from Lake Iseo

(Ronco Calino for example). Franciacorta wines are particularly

pleasing to the eye and fragrant on the nose. In dry, hot years like

1998, 2003 and 2011, they generally have a short cellar life, and

in cooler years such as 1997 and 2001, they retain wonderful

freshness. The appellation is directly affected by climate change

as it is mainly located in the plain and since 2007 has had to

deal with a change in the vine’s growing cycle. Most of the vines

are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir although Pinot Meunier is also

permitted, as is Pinot Blanc. Our tastings revealed that Villa

Franciacorta, Vezzoli, Il Mosnel, La Fioca and Ca’ del Bosco with

the prestige cuvee Anna-Maria Clementi are the foremost

Why did you create an institute for Trentodoc when its wineshave been grown for over a century?“We created the Trentodoc Institute three years ago toimprove exposure and legitimacy for Trentino’sflagship wines - its traditional-method sparklingwines with a secondary fermentation in the bottle -both nationally and internationally. The Trentodoclabel is now used by 37 producers compared with 22five years ago. Countless properties used to make stillwine with a small proportion of sparkling. The trendhas now been reversed. Several producers havespecialised in production of Trentodoc sparkling winesand, as a sideline, produce a clutch of still winesmainly from Chardonnay.”

How have sales of Trentodoc fared in 2011? What is your opinionof the Chinese market?“The large Trentodoc producers have tended toconsolidate growth whereas the smaller estates arewitnessing strong increases in sales mainly bysecuring new outlets in the on - and off-trade. Around1 million bottles were exported – admittedly less thanFranciacorta – primarily to Northern Europe, theUnited States and Asia. The Japanese market is stillthe leading export destination. China is still anemerging market for which we have very littletangible data at the moment.”

INTERVIEW WITH...FAUSTO PERATONER, CHAIRMANOF THE TRENTODOC INSTITUTE

GIULIO AND LUCIA BARZANO OFMOSNEL, ONE OF THE TOP

FRANCIACORTA PRODUCERS

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THE TOP TEN FRANCIACORTA WINES

Franciacorta DOCG Scores

Villa Franciacorta Brut Cuvette 2005 94/100

Vezzoli Ugo Brut 93/100

Il Mosnel Brut 93/100

Ca’ del Bosco Brut Cuvée Annamaria Clementi

Rosé 2003 93/100

Villa Franciacorta Brut 2007 92/100

Le Marchesine Rosé Brut 2007 92/100

La Fioca Brut 92/100

Marchesi Antinori Brut Satèn 2004 91/100

Il Mosnel Extra-Brut EBB 2007 91/100

Ca’ del Bosco Annamaria Clementi 2004 91/100


QUALITY FACTORS

producers, particularly with the 2005 and 2003 vintages (see our

top ten Franciacorta wines). Berlucchi, Franciacorta’s largest

producer, offers very approachable wines targeted at a broad-

ranging Italian clientele that shops both in specialist stores and

supermarkets.

Franciacorta DOCG is a sparkling wine that is typically fragrant

and blends aromas of ripe stone fruits or dried fruit with notes

of citrus, butter-based patisseries and honey; over time, these

evolve towards toasted aromas occasionally mixed with a

mineral note. The palate is often opulent, full and round.

Freshness is subdued on the palate and is revealed more through

a vegetal note of bitter almond. When it is well made,

Franciacorta is more than simply an accessible wine ideally

suited as an appetiser; it is complex and should be paired with

sophisticated, refined food. With the effects of climate change,

the 2007 vintage is similar in style to a South African Cape

Classic and could be compared to wines made by Boschendal.

Made primarily from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (occasionally

blended with Pinot Blanc), Franciacorta seems to find its

structure in the acidity of the Chardonnay and its texture in the

THE VILLAGE OF ERBUSCO, IN THEFRANCIACORTA APPELLATION

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INTERVIEW WITH...MAURIZIO ZANELLA, CHAIRMANOF THE FRANCIACORTA DOCG CONSORTIUM

The end of 2011 is with us and this is generally a time to take stock. What are yourfeelings about this year?“Sales of Franciacorta spumante grew by an estimated 16.7 percentcompared with an overall increase of 4.7 percent for the Italian sparklingwine segment. Our objective is to promote development of nationwidesales, focusing our efforts particularly on central and southern of Italy moreso than on exports, which account for 8 percent of total sales on the backof a 25 percent increase compared with 2010. We aim to improve thequality of our products, most of which are produced on a small scale,rather than try and expand in export markets.”

What are your feelings about the Chinese market?“Out of 100 estates growing sparkling wines, only 5 or 6 are currentlypresent in China. Progress in this market will be slow and this is only thebeginning. Exports only began five years ago.” ©

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ADVERTORIAL


AN INDOMITABLESPIRIT SINCE 1926

Located in the heart of the Valdobbiadene, the production areafor Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G lies surrounded by thebeautiful hills of the pre-Alps in the province of Treviso.Cantine Valdo, owned and headed by Pierluigi Bolla, has along tradition of cultivation of Glera, the main grape forProsecco. Prosecco specialists since 1926, Valdo has traditionallyfocused on high quality Prosecco and in its eighty five yearexperience has promoted its passion for the vineyard and goodwine. Valdo has also successfully promoted the culture ofProsecco throughout the world, receiving prestigious accoladesyear after year. Today, Valdo is writing a new page. Featuringunique sparkling wines designed to win over the most refinedpalates by presenting its new classical method sparkling wines.Owner of 155 hectares cultivated with Prosecco D.O.C.G, Valdoexports to more than 35 countries worldwide. The “Marca oro”is the traditional Valdo flagship sparkling wine sold globally.

INNOVATION MEETS TRADITIONThe Valdo sparkling wine excellence stems from the care takenat every single moment of production: from the perfectripening of the grapes on the vine to the fermentation phase,using Charmat or classical method to create the sparkling winestyle offered, right through to bottling and exclusive packaging.The Valdo cellars are a place of inspiration where innovationand tradition are combined to guide the use of technology inproducing extraordinary quality sparkling wine, a uniquetestimonial of the Valdo passion for exclusive wines. Moreover,Valdo has an incomparable knowledge of its vine-growingareas which, handed down through the generations, hasenabled it to capture the flavours and fragrances of each vine

in every bottle, to

produce superb quality sparkling wines. Through its traditionalProsecco product line, Valdo is proud to offer typical, floral andfruity, fresh and elegant expressions of the Valdobbiadene area inthe glass.

A SELECTION OF THE MOSTPRESTIGIOUS SPARKLING WINES The “Prestigio” line is a range of sparkling wines unique for itscharacteristics and quality, created by Valdo to meet the needsof prestigious restaurants and wine shops. Made with selectedgrapes from the best vineyards, “Prestigio” sparkling wines

represent Valdo’s high quality cuvée. The highest qualityProsecco produced with the classical method, “Prestige ValdoNumero 10” spends a ten month period of re-fermentation inthe bottle and six months in the cave for dark and fresh ageingafter disgorging. Exclusively made with Glera, “Numero 10”has a lemon green bright colour with a persistent and creamyfroth, intensely fruity and fresh, well-balanced, zesty with abeautiful finish and long-length. Ideally served with anaperitif, it reveals its character when matched with fish andwhite meat dishes. Another highly expressive and stunningProsecco with traditional method is the “Cuvée delFondatore”, a skilful blend of Glera and Chardonnay comingfrom only one vineyard and partially refined in French oakbarrels. Full, harmonious and velvety tasting, its fruityfragrances are well-integrated in a spicy flavour to pair withcreative gastronomy and Asian cuisine.

Valdo SpumantiVia Foro Boario, 20 - 31049 Valdobbiadene

Tel. +39 0423 9090 - www.valdo.com

Valdo Spumanti

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QUALITY FACTORS

opulent, mature fruit imparted by Pinot Noir; the tannic

component is smoothed out by a strict and often high-tech

reduction winemaking process. Choosing a Franciacorta is

therefore complex and requires in-depth knowledge of a chosen

vintage and choice of wine making techniques for each estate.

When harvested, the grapes are naturally riper than in

Champagne and impart a richness that acidity levels struggle to

balance.

Could Prosecco be the true alternative to traditional Italian

bottle-fermented sparkling wines? The grape variety that forms

the backbone of Prosecco does indeed boast fragrance and

crunchy fruit that invite a wide-ranging audience of wine lovers

to partake of this crowd-pleasing wine. Other sparkling wines

are made in Italy from native grape varieties such as Ribolla

Gialla in Friuli, Falanghina in Campania and Cortese in

Piedmont. However, their strong regional stamp prevents any

real comparison with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir-based

Trentodoc and Franciacorta sparkling wines. Valdobbiadene

DOCG is a sparkling wine with immediate up-front primary

aromas. It undergoes the prerequisite second fermentation in

pressurised tanks. In 2009, the historic appellation that gave

birth to Prosecco became the appellation DOCG

Valdobbiadene; Prosecco now refers to a wine and a specific site

(like Soave or Chianti, for example) rather than a grape variety.

The varietal used is known as Glera and can be grown at

altitudes of up to 500 metres on hillsides with a gradient of as

much as 70%. It accounts for a minimum 85% of permitted

THE BIANCHI

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OWNS VILLA

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A VIEW OF THE VILLA FRANCIACORTA VINEYARDS

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✂

for ONLY 23.60 € withGILBERT & GAILLARD The Worldwide Wine Signature

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QUALITY FACTORS

varieties and can be blended with local grapes such as Verdiso,

Bianchetta, Perera, Glera Lunga, though also Pinot Noir and

Chardonnay. Prosecco’s main calling cards are its intense

fragrances of white flowers and wisteria, ripe and exotic fruits (peach,

apricot) coupled with a citrusy note. Our ten best Prosecco

Valdobbiadene include the estates of Zardetto, Perlage, Masottina

and Bellenda, which were the most highly-rated for the 2010 vintage.

Valdo Spumanti estate, which has always had a keen eye on

advances in technology from a winegrowing and winemaking

perspective and boasts 155 hectares classed as Valdobbiadene

DOCG, has been shipping its Prosecco worldwide since 1926; its

best-selling wine is the Marco Oro label. Extra dry with a

relatively low alcohol content of 11%, this particular Prosecco is

THE TOP TEN VALDOBBIADENEPROSECCOS WINES

Valdobbiadene DOCG Scores

Zardetto Brut B 2010 88/100

Perlage Brut Cnah 88/100

Masottina Brut 88/100

Bortolin Angelo Extra-Dry 2010 88/100

Bellenda Brut San Fermo 2010 88/100

Terre di San Venanzio Brut 87/100

Serena Brut Ville d’Arfanta 87/100

Masottina Brut superiore di Cartizze 87/100

Le Colture Brut Fagher 87/100

Le Bertole Brut 2010 87/100

VALDOBBIADENE DOCG IS A SPARKLING WINE WITH UP-FRONT, REVEALING PRIMARY AROMAS. IT UNDERGOES THE PREREQUISITE SECOND FERMENTATION

IN PRESSURISED TANKS

THE VALDO SPUMANTI ESTATE HASALWAYS HAD A KEEN EYE ONADVANCES IN TECHNOLOGY

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fruity on the nose and displays abundant freshness on the

palate, it is linear with a vegetal finish that makes it suitable as

an aperitif for casual occasions. We also spotted the non-vintage

Cartizze Viviana cuvee because of its hazelnut, almond and

dried grass aromas on the nose and its fresh, round and full

palate with menthol and orange blossom flavours. Lastly, the

Numero 10 2009 traditional-method sparkling wine develops an

intense nose of vanilla and jasmine and expresses a subtle

salinity and minerality on the palate with liquorice-stick flavours

flirting with a tannic quality on the finish.

Prosecco is famous as a fresh, approachable wine and yet it

achieves greater complexity when the Glera grapes are sourced

from the superlative terroir of Cartizze. Its 100 hectares of vines

impart the wine its golden hue and a stronger intensity on the

nose. Pondering over the complex fragrances unfurled on the

nose reveals white-fleshed fruits, apple and pear, citrus fruits,

intense peach and apricot and a floral touch of rose leading into

a fresh, sweet almond-scented palate. Its dosage is usually dry,

and like its Piedmont cousin Asti Spumante, it pairs best with

fruit and cream-based desserts or even small cakes made with

butter. Three estates make must-try Prosecco Cartizze: they are

Bortolomiol, Le Bertole and Masottina. Ultimately, the food and

wine pairings are all the more interesting for being versatile and

unusual with Trentodoc sparkling wines made by the traditional

method. These are well suited to the gourmet pairings associated

with superior sparkling wines across the globe, whereas

Franciacorta tempts us towards creative or even provocative

pairings with say Asian cuisine or sweet and sour dishes.

BORTOLOMIOL MAKES VERYSEDUCTIVE PROSECCO WINES

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Prosecco is now world famous. What are the prospects forProsecco Superiore made in the Conegliano Valdobbiadeneappellation?“2011 was a very gratifying and compelling year for us inItaly and internationally where our wines are sold in over50 countries. Our total annual production is 67 millionbottles (65 million in 2010) and our leading export marketis America, where we grew our sales by 87 percent in ayear to a volume of 4 million bottles. Our success is noaccident. We are careful to engage with the endconsumer and our products have an average price tag of8 euros, which is excellent value for money. Prosecco istypically made from Glera, a native variety grown onhillside sites that have recently applied for recognition asa Unesco World Heritage Site. Our foremost ambition isto promote awareness of our terroir’s 43 rives [vineyardsgrowing on steep slopes] and the various ways they areexpressed in the glass.”

Do you see the Chinese market, where you only have a tokenpresence at the moment, as an opportunity or a threat?“It offers many prospects though is still untapped by ourProsecco Superiore. China represents a challenge forEuropeans in terms of safeguarding and promoting oursparkling wine appellations. We are wary of imitationsand unlawful use of the Prosecco name as is already thecase in Australia and Brazil, for example.”

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INTERVIEW WITH...INNOCENTE NARDI, CHAIRMANOF THE CONEGLIANOVALDOBBIADENE CONSORTIUM


QUALITY FACTORS

ITALIAN SPUMANTE’SHIDDEN GEMSThere are countless small producers making quality sparkling

wines halfway between Lake Iseo and the Dolomite peaks.

Focusing firstly on the Trentodoc, it is interesting to see how

different the interpretations of the local terroir can be from one

estate to the next where output ranges from 10,000 to 15,000

bottles. Established in 1986, the Methius estate makes a

Trentodoc blended from 60 percent Chardonnay and 40 percent

Pinot Noir. It introduces two innovative techniques into the

appellation, namely the triggering of malolactic fermentation

(which does not usually occur) and partial ageing in oak for the

Chardonnay. Midway between its Champagne and Burgundy

counterparts made from the same varietals, the dry Methius

offering is aged for five years and disgorged at the end of this

period. Boasting huge personality, intensity and a well-defined

structure, the 2006, 2005 and 2002 vintages are complex and

show characteristic scents of ripe and candied fruits enhanced by

a dash of white pepper that can be found in wines made from

grapes sourced on the hills of Faedo and Pressano, north of

Trento. These vintages show high levels of freshness (around

6.4-6.7 g/l) whilst the pH is low (approximately 3.2) and dosage

harnessed at between 5.7 g/l and 6.6 g/l for the 2006 vintage.

Trentodoc Mach, made by the San Michele all’Adige Institute of

Oenology delivers pure terroir expression deployed by fruit

harvested 700 metres above sea level. Occasionally considered to

be too “technical” compared with estates like Abate Nero and

Methius, the 2007, 2006 and 2002 Mach

wines display great balance between

freshness, creaminess and fruit as well as

wonderful length and extremely

enjoyable minerality on the finish. The

acidity level ranges from 6.5 to 7 g/l

and dosage is no higher than 6 g/l. The

wine is a great match for delicately-flavoured white fish, whilst

the Methius makes an ideal partner for plump poultry such as

chestnut-stuffed guinea fowl.

INTRIGUING COMPLEXITYFounded in 1996, the Ronco Calino estate is surrounded by 10

hectares of vines and offers carefully prepared, expertly crafted

Franciacorta wines blended from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir,

both derived from Burgundy clones. Fermentation takes place at

low temperatures and part of the must is fermented in French

oak. Often spicy, the wines - particularly the 1997, 1998 and

2000s - develop intriguing complexity combining ripe and

candied fruit and mild spices such as coriander, cinnamon and

vanilla. They make a marvellous partner for dishes from

northern Italy, imparting a welcome touch of acidity to offset the

extra-virgin olive oil. The 1997, 2001 and 2007 vintages in

particular are highly successful, unlike the 1998 and 2000

vintages, which are too rich to be cellared for long. The 1997s

show surprising elegance and freshness and make us regret that

the 2002 vintage - which was worthwhile in both Champagne

and Trentino - was not presented.

By way of conclusion, in a context of standardisation of the taste

of wine despite the general improvement in quality over the last

forty years, we can hope that the diversity of sparkling wines,

encouraged most notably by the emergence of superior-quality

Italian spumante, will continue, with Champagne remaining the

historic benchmark of sparkling wine perfection. ■

THE BEAUTIFUL

SCENERY OF THE

PROSECCO VINEYARDS

HAS BEEN SHAPED BY

HUMAN HANDS

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A few kilometres from the city of Verona, the home of Shakespeare’sRomeo and Juliet, the winegrowing region of Valpolicella spreads over anarea of 30,000 hectares and offers lovers of big, strapping reds the long-lasting nectar that is Amarone. Of course, there are other, simpler redwines such as Bardolino and Valpolicella, but even when produced withthe ripasso technique (double fermentation in contact with the lees ofAmarone), these are but a pale reflection of the majestic Amarone.

Amarone, an inimitable vin de terroir

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around 15-16%, Amarone wines are exported mainly to northern

European countries (Denmark, Scandinavia, Switzerland and

Germany) and are the darling of airlines interested in wines

with a minimum of 14% alcohol, given the reduced olfactory

acuity of passengers on long-haul flights.

According to Emilio Pedron, President of the Valpolicella

Consortium, Amarone has a promising future, with a continuing

increase in sales (if one excludes the catastrophic year of

2008) estimated at 10% for 2011 - and this despite higher taxation

on wines with over 15% alcohol, particularly in the United

States and Switzerland. In addition, the average return per

hectare is also steadily progressing, currently at 20,000 euros,

which is four times higher than the national average. Apart

from Soave producers such as the Gini or Pra wineries, which

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BOLLA WAS FORMERLY OWNED BY THEAMERICAN DISTRIBUTOR BROWN-FORMAN

Avisit to the Bertani or Masi wine cellars is like reading

a history book dedicated to a wine region whose

traditions date back to at least 1672, from the

evidence of a Venetian-shaped bottle found there. Like certain

fine wines such as Champagne, for example, Amarone first

emerged from the complete fermentation of a sweet wine

called Recioto traditionally made by the region’s farmers

from the main native grape varieties, Corvina, Molinara and

Rondinella - that’s to say, it came about by mistake.

Originally called Recioto Amaro, the first wine labelled

under the name

Amarone was sold in

1939 by the Cantina

Soc i a l e de l l a

Valpolicella, which

today offers wines

under the brand

Domini Veneti.

A PROMISING FUTUREFor over a century, the viticulture and oenological traditions

of Burgundy have had a major influence on Amarone production.

In the 1850s, the Bertani brothers spent four years in

Burgundy to learn about and try to reproduce the interpretations

of terroir provided by its grand cru wines. Even today, producers

such as Sandro Gini started out by criss-crossing Burgundy to

evaluate the possibility of producing fine Amarone wines in a

geographical area traditionally dedicated to Soave white wines

made from Garganega grapes. Yet Amarone found success only

belatedly, when it was discovered by an American market fond

of fruit-forward, full-bodied wines like Amarone often is,

thanks to a production technique called appassimento, in which

the grapes are dried before they are pressed and fermented.

Often criticised for their high level of alcohol, generally

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EMILIO PEDRON,PRESIDENT OF THEVALPOLICELLACONSORTIUM



supposedly reduces a wine’s characteristics of terroir. If we

take, for example, the wines produced by Masi in Argentina,

the style remains Venetian, but the personality of the wine is

very different from the best Amarones from Valpolicella,

which open with fruit and notes of assorted spices overlaid

with intensely balsamic and floral hints. Tannic, round,

structured and concentrated, Bolla’s ”Le origini” (especially

2005 and 2007) are closest to the Argentinian Amarones (for

example, Masi Tupungato’s 2009 ”Corbec”, a blend of Malbec

and Corvina grapes) and take the terroir’s characteristics to an

extreme, characteristics intensified with another range of Bolla

Amarone, Santi’s ”Proemio” (especially 2005 and 2007).

A good Amarone starts life in the vineyards in the hills around

Lake Garda and acquires its personality during appassimento;

that is, the period during which the grapes are dried in ventilated

trays and lose 30-35% of their weight, sometimes aided by the

development of Botrytis cinerea, which leads to a high level of

have recently switched to Amarone production, new producers

such as Tenuta Sant’Antonio, created in the 1990s, are already

making their mark with excellent wines.

Strategic business negotiations are also taking place, with the

Riunite de l’Emilie-Romagne wine cooperative taking a

majority share in Gruppo Italiano Vini (G.I.V.), today the largest

firm in the Italian wine sector. The resulting internal restructuring

is mirrored in other major wineries such as Bolla (known

abroad mainly for its Pinot Grigio and its Chianti), which was

formerly owned by the American distributor Brown-Forman

(until 2006), and is now part of G.I.V. In return, according to

some sources, the historic Bertani estate was apparently sold

to the Angelini family, better known for its investments in the

pharmaceutical industry and the Tuscan wine sector - a transaction

worth around 100 million euros.

However, Sandro Boscaini, President of the Masi Group, the

largest producer of Amarone in Valpolicella, remains cautious

regarding the development of new Asian markets such as

China, believing that these consumers consider wine simply

the end result of the fermentation of fruit, and see Old World

wines as a symbol of European culture rather than as linked to

a particular terroir or local tradition.

AN INIMITABLE STYLEIt would be an oversimplification to consider Amarone a wine

that owes its style uniquely to appassimento, a factor that

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SANDRO BOSCAINI, PRESIDENTOF THE MASI GROUP, THE LARGEST PRODUCER OFAMARONE IN VALPOLICELLA

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A AMARONE IS PRODUCED BY A TECHNIQUE CALLED APPASSIMENTO, IN WHICH THE GRAPES AREDRIED BEFORE THEY ARE PRESSED AND FERMENTED


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glycerine in the must. This process results in a period of

pre-maceration inside the grapes, which undergo a micro-

enzymatic transformation that promotes the development of

the wine’s secondary aromas. The wet climatic conditions that

can occur in October can prove problematic given that the

grapes should ideally be pressed in the January following the

harvest. For example, although 1982 was an excellent year for

Bordeaux wines, it was difficult for Amarones as the month of

October was very wet and the grapes were exposed to mildew

during appassimento. As a result, some estates invested in

modern drying trays and installed systems for reducing

dampness to guarantee better quality grapes, as well as systems

that allow the reduction of the level of sulphur dioxide and

the option of either endogenous or exogenous fermentation

as appropriate to prioritise the use of native yeast. Masi is the

sole winery with a fully automated ventilation system. For its

part, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery opts for slow fermentation

at low temperatures (around 21-22 °C), conserving the fruit

and the freshness of the wine, unlike classic Amarones, which

are almost too oxidised and round, such as those traditionally

made at the Bertani estate. The 2007 Campo dei Gigli and the

2007 Amarone Riserva represent the best expressions of

Tenuta Sant’Antonio Amarone.

TECHNOLOGY TO THE RESCUEThe helping hand of technology and the utilisation of drying

trays equipped with controlled ventilation systems allow the

use of sulfites to be limited during the grape-drying phase. This

has permitted large wineries such as Bolla to join organisations of

natural winemakers such as Freewine. Created in Valpolicella

by the oenologist Marco Tebaldi, this organisation encourages

the production of sulfite-free wine (www.freewine.eu). The

freshness, elegance and finesse of the 2010 Bolla Amarone is a

pleasant surprise. It will be on the market in 2013.

The outsider of Soave, Sandro Gini, now also a producer of

fine Amarone wines, has been producing white wines without

added sulfites since 1985. His first Amarones (probably

beginning with the 2008 vintage) were made according to the

same philosophy and will be available for sale in 2012. In the

geographical area of Soave, the Dal Forno and Pra wineries

have been making Amarone for several years from vineyards

planted at an average altitude of 500 metres, on remote

previously virgin land with characteristics similar to the

argilo-calcareous subsoil of Burgundy. Some might argue that

more and more winemakers in Valpolicella are producing

Amarone to benefit from its reputation and its better profit

margins at the expense of the well-known appellations sold in

large volumes on the international markets, such as Soave

white wines and Valpolicella Superiore reds. The regulations

for Valpolicella DOCG stipulate that the ratio of Amarone

compared to Valpolicella, which is simpler and cheaper to

produce, should be one to two. According to Emilio Pedron,

between 2004 and 2011, Amarone production has gone from

380,000 to 420,000 hectolitres, more than 12 million bottles,

at a price of 200 euros per 100 kilograms of grapes.

A DISTILLATION OF terroirIt is important to keep in mind that the Amarone produced

THE WINEGROWING REGION OF VALPOLICELLASPREADS OVER AN AREA OF 30,000 HECTARES

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SANDRO GINI, NOW ALSO A PRODUCER OFFINE AMARONE WINES



today is more than a highly alcoholic, muscular, super-

concentrated wine. This modern wine with ancient origins can

be defined as a quality dry red wine with a big personality. It

is aged in barrels and has high glycerol content similar to a

fine Bordeaux (between 11 and 12 grams per litre). The wine

is matured in casks or barrels of different capacities during a

minimum period of two years. The Valpolicella appellation

(which recently became DOCG) is made up of micro-terroirs

that lend its wines very different personalities. Amarone from

the hills of Negrar is naturally endowed with invigorating

freshness and opens with interesting flavours of stone fruit

like cherry, while that from Mazzano is spicier and more similar

to the Amarone produced at Illasi, in which the aromas and

flavours of black pepper and clove are paired with a hint of

concentrated stewed fruit. The big player of top-range

Amarone is the Masi winery, which has three crus: 2005 ”Vaio

Armaron” Amarone (extracts of cherry, dried grass, anise and

eucalyptus and a fresh, structured, mouth-filling palate

somewhere between the flavours of liquorice and violet

candy); 2004 ”Campolongo di Torbe” Amarone (elegant and

deep, characterised by notes of fruit, spice and menthol); and

2004 ”Mazzano” Amarone, the winery’s flagship, which is

structured and can be cellar-aged for 20 years without

any problem.

THE POETRY OF AMARONE Nothing can match the poetry of Amarone matured in barrels,

most often in Allier French oak, or in the case of the Pra

winery, blended with wines matured in Hungarian oak, which

gives its 2009 vintage an intensity and roundness centred on

super-concentrated flavours of liquorice, black tobacco and

violet. Pra’s 2007 vintage, concentrated on black fruit such as

blackberry and blueberry coated with a pleasant creamy note

of milk caramel is currently available in shops. The 2010 Pra

already demonstrates elegance and ageing potential superior

to the 2009 vintage.

Sandro Gini’s Amarone wines are a true revelation. They are

produced from vineyards planted in 2000 on well-ventilated

virgin land at an altitude of 500 metres. The grapes ripen

slowly and do not suffer the over-ripening problems that can

be caused by too much exposure to the sun, despite still

employing the Trentino pergola vine-training system common

in the lower areas of Valpolicella. Gini’s 2010 vintage features

an Amarone with good concentration around the aromas of

red fruits and clove and a structured and elegant palate that

compares favourably to the 2009 vintage, which is more rustic

and oaky and already shows restrained freshness, incorporated

tannins and a less defined structure. The 2007 vintage is a

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SANDRO GINI’S AMARONE WINES ARE A TRUE REVELATION. THEY ARE PRODUCED FROMVINEYARDS PLANTED IN 2000 ON WELL-VENTILATED VIRGIN LAND AT AN ALTITUDE OF 500 METRES

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testament to Gini’s style, balanced between intensity and

strength, while the 2008, which is rounder and more

concentrated, recalls more commercial Amarone wines, such

as those produced in recent years by the Allegrini winery.

Currently, Domini Veneti offers the fullest panorama of the

diversity of Valpolicella’s terroirs with its five crus (Villa, San

Rocco, Mazzurega, Castelrotto and Monte) all from the same

year - 2005. Under the impetus of Daniele Accordini, the

fermentation is carried out with exogenous yeast and the

blends are composed of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella.

The Molinara grape, commonly used to make Amarone, has

recently been omitted by the majority of the wineries because

it adds little to the wine’s longevity, whereas the Oseleta grape,

which contributes colour and tannins, has been reintroduced

(as it has at Masi). Domini Veneti’s decision to offer this range

of 2005 Amarone is daring, considering it was a low-production

year (as were 1954 and 1997), so it would be risky to describe

this as an excellent vintage. It rained during the harvest, and

the beginning of the appassimento grape-drying process was

problematic. Only the wineries with the most advanced ventilation

and drying technology were able to pull through. The Villa,

Castelrotto and Mazzurega Amarones have a palate of assorted

fruits with spicy and balsamic notes, with the Mazzurega

being the antithesis of the usual qualifiers for an Amarone.


Concentrated on black cherry and spices, the palate is tannic

and mouth-filling, with a big personality. It is a wine with

great structure and length and a fresh finish underpinned

with Mediterranean aromatic plants such as rosemary. The

2005 San Rocco Amarone is the least intense expression of

the terroir of the five wines, with an oaky palate that hides

the fruit and a finish that lacks length. Lastly we should

note the atypical roundness of the 2005 Monte compared

with the harmony and depth of the 2005 Castelrotto

Amarone.

In conclusion, it should be acknowledged that the region’s

main traditional Amarone producers remain living

representatives of the excellence produced in Valpolicella.

Bertani’s Amarone wines from 1981, 1967 and 1964 are

true works of art that still embody the essence of an

impressive terroir.

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Gini v ineyards

TRADITION AND DYNAMISMCastilla y León is currently an exciting

wine region, with an impressive diversity

of wines, dynamic winemakers and forward-

thinking regulatory bodies. Located in

the northwestern part of Spain and

bordering Portugal, it has around

47,000 hectares of vineyards (the

Ribera del Duero appellation, which

was discussed in the last issue of this

magazine, represents 44% of the

region’s vineyards). Compared to the

total surface area of Spain’s vineyards

(1.2 million hectares), this seems relatively

small. However, its modest size is not a

reflection of its quality - quite the contrary.

TOROStructured, velvety winesOne of the main winegrowing areas in

the region is the Toro Denominación de

Origen (DO), which lies west of DO

Rueda and is crossed by the River Duero

in the north. This DO has significantly

expanded over the last decade, attracting investment that has

allowed it to grow from 2,700 hectares of vineyards and 8

wineries in 1999 to 5,800 hectares and

50 wineries today. It has an extreme, arid

continental climate, moderated by the

maritime influence of the Atlantic, with

annual rainfall of 350-400 millimetres

and an average annual temperature of

12-13 ºC: conditions that yield grapes of

high quality.

Toro’s vineyards lie at altitudes of 620 - 750

metres and are planted in Tertiary

limestone soils. The main grapes

grown are Tinta de Toro (an adaptation

of the Tempranillo grape) and Garnacha

(Grenache) for reds, and Verdejo and

Malvasía for whites. The area was

untouched by phylloxera, so some of

its vineyards are over 100 years old.

Although the majority of wines produced

are Tinta de Toro reds, many different

styles are made within this DO.

The first winery that really put Toro on

the map in Spain as well as abroad was

Bodegas Fariña. Founded in 1942, in

the 1960s it was taken over by the

second generation of the family,

Manuel Fariña, who was the principal architect of Toro’s growing

reputation. At the end of the 1980s and the beginning of the

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This Spanish region’s mosaic of vineyards is reaping the benefit of dynamicinitiatives and a renewed passion for wine.

Castilla y León: quality in three colours

Diego Bonnel has long experience in the international wine sector,

as well as in strategic management and supply chain management.

For more than 25 years, he has put his passion for wine and his expertise in winemaking and

exporting to use as a consultant,advising both winemakers and public

bodies. He travels extensively inmany wine-producing countries,

meeting wine experts including winemakers,

oenologists and sommeliers. Tasting thousands

of wines each year, he is particularly knowledgeable about Iberian wines.

He currently lives in Madrid, where he heads

the Spanish and Portuguese G&G office.

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BY DIEGO BONNEL


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Pintia project on 106 hectares in Toro in 1995, and after six

years of trials, finally presented its first wine in 2001.

Toro’s Liberalia Enológica winery offers a completely different

style of wine, targeted mainly at the export market - more specifically,

the US market. The owner Juan Antonio Fernández makes

New World-style wines, for which he regularly receives high

scores from Robert Parker: many of his wines have received

scores of 90 and over. Among others, the 2004 Liber, the

equivalent of a Gran Reserva, has received a score of 96.

Among Toro’s most interesting wines are those made by the

brilliant young winemaker Rosa Zarza for Bodegas y Pagos

Matarredonda and Bodegas Campiña. Matarredonda’s

Libranza and Juan Rojo wines are very elegant and subtle,

while also powerful and very well structured, with good

1990s, a time when Rioja was the only region with any brand

visibility, he was the first to launch a wine made using carbonic

maceration based on the then decades-old tradition for

Beaujolais Nouveau wines, which go on the market the third

Thursday in November each year. Today, the family’s third

generation is at the helm, currently overseeing around 300

hectares of vines. Their wines are mainly sold on the off-trade

market, although two of their quality wines (Gran Colegiata

Campus and Gran Colegiata Roble Francés aged in French

oak) can also be found in bars and restaurants.

Another of Toro’s legendary producers is Mariano García, who

arrived in the region in 1997 after 30 years as Vega Sicilia’s

chief winemaker. He currently supervises 65 hectares of

vineyards, and his San Román and Prima wines are ranked

among the best in DO Toro. Vega Sicilia itself launched its

CASTILLA Y LEÓN HAS EIGHT DIFFERENT DENOMINACIÓN DE ORIGEN WINEGROWINGAREAS AND THREE AREAS OF QUALITY WINES

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ageing potential. Made from vines over 100 years old, they are

an incredible combination of strength and grace. Where one

might have expected full-bodied, over-extracted wines, they

are soft and delicate with well-integrated, discreet oak.

The wines of Bodegas Campiña are as delicate and subtle as

those of Matarredonda, but are lighter, as most come from

somewhat younger vines. It is a small cooperative geared

towards the production of affordable high-quality wines: their

Viñas Centenarias, for example, is very good value for money.

OLD TINTA DE TORO VINES HAVE GIVEN TOROWINES AN INTERNATIONAL REPUTATION



Two outstanding biodynamic wineries - Quinta de la Quietud

and Dominio del Bendito - also warrant a mention for their fruity,

easy-to-drink but structured wines, which should age well.

Finally, it is worth noting that DO Toro made global headlines

in February 2008, when the LVMH Group bought the Eguren

family’s Numanthia winery for 25 million euros, the highest

price in the history of Spanish winemaking, just after the

bodega’s 2004 Termanthia received a score of 100 points by

Jay Miller, one of Robert Parker’s closest associates.

RUEDACheerful, crisp, everyday winesThe second most famous region for white wines in Spain

(after Rías Baixas, known for its whites made from the

Albariño grape) is Rueda. This DO was created in 1926, but

was not officially recognised by the Ministry of Agriculture

until January 1980. The main grape variety in Rueda has

traditionally been Verdejo, which at 9,000 hectares makes up

more than 75% of the total vineyards and 80% of total production.

Other grapes grown here are Sauvignon Blanc, Viura (almost

always associated with Verdejo-based wines) and Palomino.

Although reds (based on Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon,

Merlot and Garnacha) are also made, they represent a tiny

proportion of production.

This DO has also undergone spectacular development in the last

ten years, with the surface dedicated to winegrowing increasing

from 5,800 hectares in 1999 to 11,000 in 2010. In the same

period, the number of wineries have doubled from 27 to 54.

Rueda has a very similar climate to Toro: it lies at 700-800

metres above sea level and has a continental climate with

long, cold winters, short springs with late frosts and dry, hot

summers. Rain is scarce, with only 300-500 millimetres per

year. The generally well-drained soils vary from sandy loam to

loam and are rich in calcium and magnesium.

There are several big groups in Rueda which help give the DO

consumer visibility: Aura (Domecq Bodegas), François Lurton,

Marqués de Riscal (from Rioja), Chivite (from Navarra),

Protos and Grupo Yllera (from Ribera del Duero) and Grupo

Freixenet (from the Cava region in Catalonia). They generally

offer good quality, reasonably priced wines that are mainly

distributed in supermarkets. Although varietal character is

recognisable in most cases, it is not uncommon for these

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THE ROLLING HILLS OF DO TORO

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high-volume producers to include a small proportion of

Sauvignon Blanc to make their wines more aromatic, thus

distorting the true expression of the Verdejo grape with its

vegetal notes of hay, fresh grass, almond and citrus.

Among other important players in Rueda is Bodegas Cuatro

Rayas, which produces over 20% of all bottled wine in the DO

(11 million bottles) and controls 19% of its vineyards (2,100

hectares). Its most popular wine, Cuatro Rayas, is well made,

expressing Verdejo’s attributes in a simple, accessible way.

Their Cuatro Rayas Viñedos Centenarios (from vines over 100

years old) is more complex and closer to the true expression

made possible by old vines. This winery also offers sparkling

wines made from 100% Verdejo using the traditional method.

But the most interesting wines come from smaller producers.

The Ermita Veracruz from Bodegas Veracruz, part of the

Alvaréz y Díez group, is a fresh, vibrant, well-crafted Verdejo.

The Belondrade y Lurton winery is another name to remember,

with their premium Belondrade y Lurton a fine, almost

Burgundy-like wine, fermented and matured in its lees in 300-

litre French oak barrels for a minimum of six months. Their

Quinta Apolonia is made from the unselected barrels of premium

wine topped up with wines from the grapes of young vines.

The winery also produces an excellent rosé that is among the

very best in Spain, the Quinta Clarisa.

CIGALESFull potential yet to be expressedThis DO, located north of Rueda and the River Duero, is crossed

by the Pisuerga River and its tributaries. It also has a continental

DO RUEDA HAS 11,000 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS AND A CONTINENTAL CLIMATE WITH LONG, COLD WINTERS AND DRY, HOT SUMMERS

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climate with an Atlantic maritime influence,

with hot summers and cold winters that result in

significant temperature variations, both during

the day and over the year. The vineyards are

situated at an average altitude of 750 metres,

spanning an area from Valladolid in the south

to Dueñas in the north. Average annual rainfall is

400 millimetres and the average annual temperature

12ºC. The soils are typically lightweight over

limestone subsoil.

The main red grapes grown here are Tinta del

País (the local name for Tempranillo),

Garnacha and Garnacha Gris. The white varieties

are Verdejo and Albillo. Of the traditional

DOs, it is one of the few not to have significantly

increased its cultivated surface area (from

2,500 to 2,700 hectares) or its number of wineries (from 31 to

37) between 1999 and 2010. This is mainly due to the fact that

Cigales has traditionally been a big producer of rosé wines,

which have not attracted new investors, and that most of its

winegrowers are reaching retirement age, so the trend is

towards uprooting rather than planting. In the last five years,

160 hectares of vines have been pulled out. Yet recently there

has been a dramatic shift in the wines produced in this DO to

adapt to consumer demand: whereas 80% of Cigales wines

were rosés in 1999, these now account for only 50% of total

production.

THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE DO ARLANZAREGULATORY BODY

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THE UNIQUE LANDSCAPE OF DO ARLANZA, WITH THE CITY OF LERMA IN THE BACKGROUND

What the DO seems to lack is a clear leader in its winemaking.

Although it has some good and even very good wines, no

winery stands out enough to act as a reference, which partly

explains the relative stagnation of Cigales compared to

Castilla y León’s other DOs. The region’s reaction has been to

take steps to improve quality. According to Pascual Herrera,

the President of the Consejo Regulador, the governing body of

the DO, the future of Cigales will depend on its ability to offer

higher quality wines. A project has been launched to transform

the DO into a DOC (Denominación de Origen Calificada)

within five years - a classification currently only held by Rioja

and Priorat. The aim is to become an area known for high-quality

wines that are different from those of the surrounding areas.

César Príncipe is one of the most respected wineries in Cigales

and a name often heard in reference to the area. Its young 13

Cántaros Nicolás has a Ribera-like nose and a light palate with

spices and subtle oak along with black pepper and black fruit.

However, it has a short, rather bitter finish with stringent tannins.

Another Cigales winery to take into account is Finca Museum.

The 2005 Museum Reserva has a pleasant nose of dairy, coffee,

toast and tobacco; the palate is less appealing, with notes of

old wood, hot pepper and coffee, some stringent tannins and

a bitter finish.

I was impressed with a small family-run winery, Santa Rufina,

which uses old or very old vines to make elegant, delicate

wines with very well-integrated oak. Their wines are not very

well known, but they have everything needed to succeed: a

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good approach to vineyard management (their wines are organic,

though they do not have the official label), their subtle use of

oak, and a deep conviction that old vines result in the best

wines (they consistently seek out and buy the oldest parcels of

vineyards in the area when they can). With a little extra means

to invest in modernising their winery equipment, they would

likely be recognised as among the best producers in the DO.

The rosés of Cigales are some of the best in Spain. Made using

Verdejo, they are fresh and vibrant with fruity, herbal notes

and are easy to drink and consistent.

BIERZOBewitching mineral winesThis outstanding region of Castilla y León has 4,000 hectares

of vineyards (an increase from 3,400 hectares in 1999), and

the number of registered wineries has increased more than

two-fold in the same period, reaching 55 to date. The mean

temperature is 12 ºC, and average rainfall is around 700 millimetres

per year. In the river plain the soil is alluvial (often with traces of

iron) and at higher altitudes it contains slate, which gives the

wines a deep, attractive mineral quality. The vines are planted

at 500 - 600 metres above sea level.

The main red grape is Mencía, with Garnacha Tintorera

playing only a minor role; white grapes include Doña Blanca,

Malvasía, Palomino and Godello. At the WineFuture Hong

Kong event held in November 2011, Robert Parker predicted

that the Mencía grape has huge potential in Spain, which

could give Bierzo new global prominence.

One of the names that stand out in Bierzo is Ricardo Palacios,

the nephew of Álvaro Palacios, the man behind Priorat’s

groundbreaking L’Ermita. Ricardo Palacios uses biodynamic

methods to offer a consistent range of fruity yet structured

wines. The most popular is Pétalos del Bierzo, a young,

vibrant, easy-to-drink and yet complex wine. His other wines

worth mentioning are Villa de Corullón, La Faraona and Las

Lamas, all structured, powerful wines that need time to develop in

the bottle to reach an interesting balance.

Another winemaker to note is Raúl Pérez, who was born in

Valtuille de Abajo in the heart of the Bierzo wine region. He

launched his first wines in 2005 without a penny, or even a

winery. In the subsequent six years he has been able to make

unique, sometimes extra-limited, wines that have dazzled

international wine experts, Robert Parker among them. Today

he is considered the most talented alchemist in Bierzo. His

medium-range Ultreia wine is really outstanding, the 2008

even better than the 2009. His Valtuille Cepas Centenarias has

become a reference in the DO. The 2005 that I recently tasted

was subtle and elegant, with all the hallmarks of one of the

rare wines able to prompt real excitement.


REGION

THE SIGNATURE RED GRAPE OF BIERZO,MENCÍA CAN RESULT IN

WINES OF INDISPUTABLE QUALITY

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IMPRESSIVE MOUNTAINS OVERLOOK THEVINEYARDS OF DO BIERZO

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Other worthy winemakers in Bierzo include Bodegas Casar de

Burbia, which makes excellent wines in another style. Its

Hombros is very representative: a superb mineral, smoky wine

that reflects the slate soil of its terroir. Another is Bodegas

Martín Códax, a large wine cooperative in the Rias Baixas area

that has recently launched light, simple, fruity Mencía-based

reds destined for the export market: Cuatro Pasos and Martín

Sarmiento. I also particularly like the wines of the young

French winemaker Gregory Pérez, who has settled in Bierzo

and uses biodynamic methods to make his wines. His

Mengoba ‘Sobre Lías’ white, based on Godello and Doña

Blanca grapes and the Mengoba ‘Mencía de Espanillo’ red are

outstanding.

NEW CASTILLA Y LEÓN DOsIn 2007, four new DOs (most of which were previously classified

Vino de la Tierra – the rung just below DO) were officially

recognised: Arribes, Arlanza, Tierra de León and Tierra del

Vino de Zamora. These cover a combined surface area of

nearly 3,300 hectares. The use of local grapes, for example, the

Juan García variety in Arribes and the Prieto Picudo in Tierra

de León, makes these wines very appealing. The Juan García

lends its characteristic notes of cooked cherry and blackberry,

whereas the Prieto Picudo gives rise to intensely coloured

wines, full of fresh fruit and herbal notes similar to those of

Mencía, but with more body and tannins.

These new DOs will need time to develop and to gain recognition

from the market. One thing they have in common is the

presence of young, passionate winemakers, convinced that

their wines will improve the quality of the DO and express

its full potential; a belief that is strong, despite a lack a financial

means that is likely to make their mission more difficult to

achieve.

DO TIERRA DE LEÓN COVERS ALMOST 1,500 HECTARES;ITS MOST DISTINCTIVE GRAPE IS PRIETO PICUDO

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HOW HAVE YOU SEEN SPANISHWINES EVOLVE IN THE COURSEOF THE LAST 15 YEARS? Spanish wines have becomeincreasingly better known outside ofSpain, particularly due to the fact thatthere has been a jump in quality: thegrapes are better selected, the wineriesare better equipped with moderntechnology, and wood is bettermanaged.

HOWEVER, IT SEEMS THAT SOME

REGIONS STILL LAG BEHIND,LIKE RIBERA DEL DUERO FOR

INSTANCE, WHERE WE STILL FIND

MANY OVER-WOODED WINES.HOW CAN YOU EXPLAIN THIS

SPECIFIC SITUATION?Ribera del Duero has undergone a veryrapid development, probably tooquick. Critics have had a role, extollingover-extracted wines, made with over-toasted barrels in which the winesstayed too long. Besides, there aremany big producers that do not have

such as Utiel-Requena and Manchuela(Cuenca and Albacete regions) where theuse of a local variety called Bobal givesvery fruity, astonishing wines. UtielRequena offers amazing wines, like thestill and sparkling wines of the HispanoSuiza winery, an example of which is the

96 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011

LIVE FROM SPAIN

Javier Gila is a highly-renowned sommelier

in Spain. He has

worked at the Ritz Hotel

and is currently a wine

consultant for Lavinia in

Madrid. He represented

Spain in many international

competitions and was

elected Best Sommelier

of Spain in 2010.

any vineyards. In Rioja for instance,where there is a long tradition of wine-making, this could never have happened.In Ribera del Duero, businessmen runthe bodegas, whereas in Rioja truewine professionals do. There are otherareas where interesting wines are crafted,

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Javier Gi la

WHAT IS YOUR OPINION OFSPANISH SOMMELIERS?Spanish sommeliers have been developingtheir skills in a positive way over thelast few years. However, there is a lackof knowledge of foreign wines. If wecompare our situation with that of theUK, for example, sommeliers there havea much broader vision of the producingregions on a global scale. The EducationMinistry in Spain still has to design aneducational program that meets the needsof the aspiring sommelier and providesthe basis for an international career.

GIVEN THE LENGTH OF YOURCAREER, YOU MUST HAVE SOMEAMUSING ANEDCOTES TO TELLSure. When I was at the Ritz Hotel, Ihad to serve a very important personwho wanted to taste a Vega Sicilia. Butalong with the wine (one of the best inSpain, renowned worldwide) he asked

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GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011 97

sparkling Tantum Ergo, based on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

varieties, lively and elegant. In Northern Spain, in Galicia, two

new appellations are arousing renewed interest: Valdeorras,

with the Godello grape, and Ribeira Sacra, which produces red

wines from the Brancellao, Caiño and Sousón, highly

appreciated in the US. In Cataluña, some appellations are also

doing a very good job, such as Empordá, where you can find

excellent wines: Finca Malaveïna, Finca Garbet, Ex, Ex, Ex, from

Castillo de Perelada; I would also mention the astonishing progress

made by the Murcia region, which has enhanced the Monastrell

grape, also very much enjoyed in the US.

HOW WELL DOES SPANISH WINE SELL ABROAD?Situations are diverse. Spanish wine is well known in the US

and in the UK - both among the most important markets

for Spain - while in other countries like China, Spain only

sells cheap, low-quality wines. In the UK we have another

problem: distributor’s own brands are sold, which does not

exactly help build a strong image of Spanish wines. For instance,

Jeréz (sherry) is a true Spanish oenological jewel which

should be better known abroad, especially as these wines are

the perfect companion to almost any dish. What would help in

the challenge of promoting Spanish wines overseas would be

the establishment in the main markets of wine cultural offices,

just like Chile is doing. They have proved to be very successful.

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DAlain Ducasse and Javier Gi la

Javier Gi la

98 GILBERT & GAILLARD AUTUMN 2011

LIVE FROM SPAIN

for a 7 Up with ice. I thought that hewanted to drink something freshbefore tasting the wine. Instead of that,he poured the 7 Up into the wine. Thescene repeated itself for two days, eachtime with different top Spanish wines(L’Ermita and Pingus). On the thirdday, he asked me to taste the specialblend of soft drinks and great wine.Once I had tasted it, he said: “You see,even with 7 Up, it is still a great wine,don’t you think?”

Another amusing thing happened tome when I was serving a red wine at15ºC. The customer looked at meangrily, and told me that the wineshould be served at room temperature.I turned to him and asked: “Whichambient temperature are you talkingabout, Sir? That of the Sahara desert,or that of the North Pole?”

And the last one is rather good. Once Iwas preparing a ceremonial dinner whichthe King of Spain was attending. Somefine wines were ready to be served:Champagne with appetizers, a RiasBaixas Pazo de Señorans with the fish,and a Rioja Viña El Olivo with the meat.Protocol had asked me to stay near theking, in case he needed something. A fewminutes after the start of the dinner, heturned to me and said: “Why don’t wejust stop fooling around and start withthe real wines? Could you please bringme the red wine straight away so that Ican start drinking real wine?”

YOU HAVE CERTAINLY EXPERIENCEDSOME FUNNY MOMENTS. NOW,TO FINISH, WHAT WINES WOULDYOU RECOMMEND -THOSE YOULIKE THE BEST AT THE MOMENT? Easy! I would start with a 10 year-oldManzanilla by Antonio Barbadillo,with Spanish cured ham; then a RiasBaixas Pazo de Señorans 2010 withscallops, a Peréz Pascuas Gran Reserva2004 from Ribera del Duero withlamb, and a Malvasía Teneguía 2006from Llanovid, or a Viñatigo Malvasía2006 from the Canary Islands (Palmaand Tenerife), with apple cake andcitrus fruit sorbet.

Diego Bonnel

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Three awards that reward quality and guarantee satisfaction. Wines bearing the Gilbert & Gaillard label have been tastedand approved by our expert tasting committee. Award-winning wines - guaranteed to meet your highest expectations.

www.gi lbertga i l lard .com

The Gilbert & Gaillard Awards:only for the best


WINE AND FOOD

L e Grand Bleu restaurant in Dordogne is near the centre of the

medieval town of Sarlat, the capital of Périgord Noir, in southwest

France. Its chef, Maxime Lebrun, learned his trade in the kitchens

of Matignon during his military service, before a spell at the La Tour

d’Argent, followed by a stint at Patrick Pignol’s Relais d’Auteuil, and finally

at Guy Martin’s three-star Grand Véfour.

Back in Périgord, Maxime Lebrun and his wife, who is from the region,

accepted the challenge of taking over Le Grand Bleu in December 2006 and

quickly gained their first Michelin star.

Lebrun and his team work

with seasonal products,

most of which come from

producers in Périgord. ‘By

joyfully revisiting the gas-

tronomic traditions of the

t e r r o i r , [ . . . ] Ma x ime

Lebrun claims his roots in

the Dordogne that he

knows so well and where

he grew up, trained and

has happily returned.’

(excerpt from À Table chez

les Périgordins by Jacques

Teyssier and Hervé Amiard,

published by Glénat).

Cod and truffleThis issue features originality and

innovation in the form of a young chef

from Périgord, who offers us a recipe

based on high-quality terroir products,

creatively brought up to date.

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Don’t miss:14 and 15 January 2012THE TRUFFLE FESTIVALThis festival honours local gastronomy, allowing visi-

tors to taste the region’s finest products and to meet

some of the top chefs in French cuisine. Courses open

to all will be organised in the context of the Culinary

Academy of Foie Gras and Truffles.

THE JEAN ROUGIÉ AWARDThis cooking competition will see eight young chefs go

head to head using two prestigious ingredients:

Périgord black truffle and foie gras. The competition

will be judged by a jury composed of 15 Michelin-

starred chefs from around the world. Yannick Alleno

(three Michelin stars) will preside over this year’s event.

GENERAL ASSEMBLYSarlat will welcome 36 chefs from the Académie des

Lauréats du Bocuse d’Or from ten different countries on

14 and 15 January 2012. They will participate in the

Jean Rougié Award. Nine French and international

Michelin-starred chefs will succeed each other to com-

pose recipes that are as attractive as they are mouth-

watering.

Contact:

Ville de Sarlat: Élise Barrière +33 (0)5 53 31 53 45 or 46

[email protected] - www.ac-foiegras-truffe.fr

RECIPE


SERVE WITHA Blanc de Blancs Champagne or, for those who prefer

still wines, a Puligny-Montrachet.

Le Grand Bleu 43 Avenue de la Gare - 24200 Sarlat-la-Caneda( +33 (0)5 53 31 08 48 - www.legrandbleu.eu

Blowtorch-cooked cod withtruffles, nettle coulis and pan-fried escalope of foie gras

INGREDIENTS

80 grams of escalope of foie gras 150 grams of cod fillet15 grams of truffles10 nettle stems

- Strip the leaves off the nettle stems and blanch them for 5–10minutes, depending on the size of the leaves.- Let this cool and then add a little water and blend. Season totaste.- Make incisions in the cod and insert slivers of truffle. Salt thecod and place it under the grill quickly for 3 minutes.- Finish cooking the fish using a blowtorch.- At the same time, pan fry the foie gras.- Garnish.

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EXPORT

Winelands of South Africa today

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At 27-34° latitude in the Southern Hemisphere, the SouthAfrican winelands are planted in ancient soils acrossdramatic mountains ranges of the Cape Floral Kingdomworld heritage site. Traditionally within 50 kilometres ofthe coast, ideal maritime conditions are created by Atlanticand Indian Ocean influences. The geography andMediterranean climate create a diversity of wine styles.

THERE ARE 275,600 PEOPLE EMPLOYED IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINE INDUSTRY

First planted in 1655, today there are more than 600 wine

producers and over 101,000 hectares of vines, over 800

kilometres. The focus is on noble varieties, superior

plant material, terroir, site specificity and expression in flavour.

The Wine of Origin scheme delimits wine production zones into

regions, districts and wards. Breed River Valley, Coastal, Klein

Karoo and Olifants River are the four main regions, with

Capetown, Stellenbosch and Paarl well-recognised districts within

the Coastal region.

White varieties dominate with 56% of total vineyard plantings, of

which Chenin accounts for 18.6%. Reds represent 44%, with

Cabernet Sauvignon the most planted variety at 12.2%. Shiraz

accounts for 10%, Merlot 6.4%, and the indigenous Pinotage, 6.2%.

WINES OF SOUTH AFRICASTRUCTUREWines of South Africa (WOSA) is a not-for-profit and fully-

independent organisation established in 1999 to represent all

South African wines that are exported. The mission is to promote

and maintain the image of South African wines internationally.

WOSA is funded by a levy per

litre on each bottle of sparkling

and still wine exported. “If your

wine is exported, you are

represented by WOSA” explains

Communications Director André

Morgenthal.

There are currently five hundred

producers working in the key

international export markets of

which the UK is the most

traditional, followed by

Germany, Sweden, the Netherlands, the USA, Canada, Russia

and Asia. The WOSA head office is based in Stellenbosch and led

by CEO Su Birch. There is a WOSA office in London, with another

opening in the USA in 2012. Marketing managers work from

agencies in America, Canada, Africa, UK and countries including

Russia, Switzerland and Scandanavia. In emerging markets

WOSA works with the South African consulates in India, Japan

and China.

There are 275,600 people employed in the South African wine

industry, backed by state body the Nietvoorbij Institute for

Winelands of South Africa Today


Viticulture and Oenology, the University of Stellenbosch, and the

Elsenburg Agricultural College.

DOMESTIC AND EXPORTCONSUMPTIONSouth Africa produces 3.0% of the world's wine and ranks as

number seven in overall volume production (2010).

The modern South African wine industry is only one decade old.

Exports are increasing rapidly, up 210% between 1998 and 2010.

With total exports of South African wine at 222.3 million litres in

2010, André Morgenthal remarked that “we have just crossed the

point where export demand has reached over 50%, passing

domestic demand which remains stable.” The UK is WOSA's

biggest market (28%), followed by Germany (19%), Sweden

(10%) and the Netherlands (7%).

WOSA COMMUNICATIONThe mission of WOSA is “to promote the value growth for the

South African wine industry abroad.” WOSA is present at major

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André Morgenthal

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PINOTAGE IS A TYPICAL RED GRAPEVARIETY OF SOUTH AFRICA, CREATEDFROM PINOT NOIR AND CINSAULT

Spirit Board (WSB) has culminated in Sustainable Wine South

Africa (SWSA). An export license must be granted to each wine for

export, analysed at the WSB, resulting in a traceable seal verifying

Wine of Origin, vintage and grape variety.

ETHICAL TRADEWOSA supports the Wine and Agricultural Industry Ethical Trade

Association (WIETA), which is a world-first initative to promote

ethical standards. The Fairtrade Label South Africa was established

in 2008 and signed with the Fairtrade Labelling Organisations

International (FLO) in 2009.

During the FIFA World Cup, the wine brand Fundi was created

with the South African wine industry, donating 100% of sales to

train 2010 disadvantaged South Africans as wine stewards in 2010.

WOSA IN CHINA André Morgenthal says that WOSA is “really active in Asia,

attending both international and local shows”, and the

organisation aims to appoint a WOSA representative permanently


EXPORT

international wine trade fairs ProWein in Germany, LIWF in

London, and Vinordi, in Sweden. At Prowein WOSA has joined

four other New World wine producing countries in the

Down2Earth initiative, teaming up with Argentina, Chile, USA

and New Zealand.

WOSA presents Cape Wine Europe in London each year,

participates in food and wine festivals in Europe, and hosts WOSA

Wine Workshops throughout the world. The domestic biennial

trade exhibition Cape Wine is a showcase of the South African

wine industry presented by WOSA, and described as “the most

successful international wine trade show in the Southern

hemisphere, and probably the most enjoyable wine show in

the world.”

Capetown is a Member of the Wine Capitals of the World wine

tourism network.

An alliance between WOSA, the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative

(BWI), Integrated Production of Wine (IPW), and the Wine and

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TOTAL EXPORTS OF SOUTH AFRICAN WINE REACHED 222.3 MILLION LITRES IN 2010

Winelands of South Africa Today


in China. In 2010, China (including Hong Kong) accounted for

35% of WOSA's Asia-Pacific wine market value, with Japan

representing 22.5%. Morgenthal comments that “the greatest

competitors in China are France, Chile and Australia”.

In May 2011, WOSA hosted a seminar for local wine producers in

Stellenbosch. Special guest Debra Meiburg MW said: "Now is the

time for South African producers to enter the market as there is

enormous growth potential for mid-priced wines." Meiburg

added that “although French wines enjoy the strongest support,

there is a rising curiosity about other wine-producing countries on

which South Africa can capitalize … Don’t let low-end wines drive

South Africa’s entry into China. Bring your high-profile, ”rock

star” cult winemakers to the country and let them seed a

reputation of excellence."

Amanda Regan

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THE MODERN SOUTH AFRICAN WINEINDUSTRY IS ONLY ONE DECADE OLD

THE WOSA HEAD OFFICE IS BASED INSTELLENBOSCH, ONE OF SOUTH

AFRICA'S MOST FAMOUS VINEYARDS

Drinking a veryold wine is arare experience,

as it is estimated that only 1%of all wine has the potential to improve after more than 10 years. Thisis because not all wines are created equal. Many factors contribute to awine’s ability to last a long time. In the vineyard, the soil and grapevariety have certain innate qualities that instill the tannins and acidnecessary to sustain a wine for many years. In addition, the climatein a given appellation changes year to year, which varies the qualityof the grapes, which in turn determines whether the finished wineproduct will have a long life in the bottle. Additionally, there aremany decisions during the vinification process that can add thecomponents necessary to lengthen a wine's life.

And during the ageing process, oak barrels further infuse tanninsinto the wine. When all of the conditions in a given year are idealto create an excellent vintage and therefore an outstanding wine,the wine will have a very long life. Wines from the best appellationsand best châteaux in the world in an exceptional year can last upto 100 years or more. The longer the life of the wine (which canbe predicted very early on in the vinification process), the moregradual the arc that leads to its long peak period and equallygradually descends toward the end of its life. Naturally it is idealto drink a wine during its peak period, and in the case of theseillustrious wines with such a long life, the peak can last decades.

The wines will evolve and change, and even when they have livedlonger than a few human generations and are past their prime,they can still have structure, surprising aromas, and secrets to tell.

SO, WHICH WINES TO CHOOSE?Red Bordeaux are amongst the wines with the greatest potential tolive an interesting, long life. I recently tasted a 1926 Montrose thatstill had very good structure and aromas of jammy red fruit. If you


WINE QUOTATIONS

The charm and magic of vintage wines

want to taste a very old red Bordeaux it is best to study up on the vintages to know which ones have staying power.

Sauternes are those sweet whites from Bordeaux that hide so muchpower and complexity in the pretty golden packaging. Sauternes canage even longer than red Bordeaux, but beware that though they arefrom the same wine region, the quality of the vintage is not necessarilythe same as for reds in a given year. Sauternes need “noble rot” inthe vineyard to get their unique complexity and aromas.

Vintage Champagne can take on interesting qualities thanks to thecarbon dioxide bubbles that can add richness over time. Fortifiedwines such as Port and Madeira have very long lives that can lastup to a few centuries. In the SoDivin cave we have a few bottles ofMadeira from 1745 that may just be good to drink.

It must be said that no matter how favorable the tasting notes ofa wine may be, do keep in mind that the older the bottle, the greaterthe risk that the wine could no longer be good. But the gambleonly adds to the excitement and their charm.

Philippe Roux

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Philippe Roux is a specialist in theniche market of rare vintages

Which wines to choose? Red Bordeaux, Sauternes,

Vintage Champagne, Port, Madeira...


Vintage wines and alcohols carry with them the history through which they have

lived. To drink a wine that has evolved through one’s lifetime is moving in itself;

it can be a great discovery, with surprises each time. An older wine is like an older

person; it is more subtle, less vivacious, but is more complex; if you take the time

to listen to what it has to say, you will be greatly rewarded.

The charm and magic of vintage wines


OLD VINTAGE WINES

YEAR CHÂTEAU APPELLATION RANK VOL PRICE VAT EXCL.1845 COSSART GORDON Madeira 0.75 l 961,54

Solera Centenary

1874 LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 6 981,61

1880 BORGES H.M. Madeira 0.75 l 811,04Malmsey Solera

1885 DURFORT VIVENS Margaux 0.75 l 1 663,88

1890 LANGOA BARTON Saint-Julien 3ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 1 250,00

1890 POMYS Saint-Estèphe 0.75 l 1 250,00

1893 DELAUNAY ROGER 0.75 l 652,17Clos du Colombier Montlouis

1898 BEYCHEVELLE Saint-Julien 4ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 1 546,82

1898 HENRIQUES Madeira 0.75 l 634,62

1900 CALON SEGUR Saint-Estèphe 3ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 2 909,70

1904 CHEVAL BLANC Saint-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé A 0.75 l 2 997,49

1904 YQUEM (D') Sauternes 1er Cru Classé Supérieur 0.75 l 2 717,39

1905 SANTHIAGO Réserve Porto 0.75 l 831,94

1908 MONTROSE Saint-Estèphe 2ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 827,76

1910 HOURINGUE Haut-Medoc Millésime marqué sur le bouchon 0.75 l 706,52

1911 SALAGRE (DE LA) Monbazillac Grand Cru 0.75 l 581,10

1914 HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 1 496,66

1916 ARMAILHACQ (d') Pauillac Pauillac - Médoc 0.75 l 748,33

1916 LATOUR Pauillac 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 959,87

1916 YQUEM (D') Sauternes 1er Cru Classé Supérieur 0.75 l 1 663,88

1918 BORGES S.V. ET IRMAO Porto 0.75 l 693,14Soalheira

1918 DESMIRAIL Margaux 3ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 250,00

1918 DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU Saint-Julien 2ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 497,49

1918 GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 2ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 455,69

1918 HAUT BRION Pessac-Léognan 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 936,45

1919 ARCHE (D') Sauternes 2ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 459,87

1919 CARBONNIEUX Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classé 0.75 l 313,55

1920 COSSART GORDON Madeira 0.75 l 660,54

1921 YQUEM (D') Sauternes 1er Cru Classé Supérieur Mise en 0.75 l 2 500,00bouteille Vandermeulen

1922 GRUAUD LAROSE Saint-Julien 2ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 417,22

1923 ARMAILHACQ (d') Pauillac Pauillac - Médoc 0.75 l 355,35

1923 MARGAUX Margaux 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 1 245,82

1924 COUTET Sauternes 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 382,94

1924 FOURCAS DUPRE Medoc 1er cru Listrac 0.75 l 233,28

1925 LATOUR Pauillac 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 994,98

1925 MARZELLE (LA) Saint-Emilion 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 250,00

1925 PAVIE Saint-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé B 0.75 l 413,88

1926 BRANAIRE DUCRU Saint-Julien 4ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 382,94

1926 COUTET Sauternes 1er Cru Classé 0.75 l 367,06

1926 MONTROSE Saint-Estèphe 2ème Cru Classé 0.75 l 522,58

Please contact us for further information: www.gilbertgaillard.com

Ever since he was old enough to drink wine, Hollywood’s most Andalusianactor has been in love with it. So much so that he recently bought a wineestate in Spain. We talk to Señor Antonio Banderas, a star whose love ofwine has not gone to his head…


STARS & WINE



Antonio Banderas with Frank Rousseau

Antonio Banderas: “I won my wife over with

a bottle of Unico!”

came to wine. That was until I came across

wines from the Napa Valley which had

incredible palate presence, particularly the

Cabernets. For years, Europeans like myself

had a condescending opinion with regard to

wine. But if you look at it objectively, the

Californians are as knowledgeable as we are.

In fact, if anything, they could teach us a

thing or two, particularly the very clever way

they have “devised” their distribution and

sales channels.

In your opinion, what is the best Spanish

wine?

When you drink a bottle of Vega Sicilia, you

know you can’t go wrong. Unico is the wine

my friends serve when I visit them in Spain.

It’s a very safe bet and when you pair it with

STARS & WINE


For over ten years, you have been the

voice behind Puss in Boots, one of

the heroes in the “Shrek” saga. The

character even has his own animated

film now. What made you want to play

Puss originally?

Because I like people to scratch my back!

Just kidding. Firstly because my wife (the

actress Melanie Griffith) and particularly

my mother-in-law (Tippi

Hedren) are surrounded by

cats. Although in my mother-

in-law’s case, it’s mainly big

cats - tigers, panthers etc.

(laughs). The kind that turns

you into minced meat with its

claws! (laughs). Also, I find

cats devilishly sexy. It’s the way

they swagger when they walk.

What else? Because you cannot

bribe a cat like you can a common

old dog by giving him a double

portion of biscuits. Also,

because in Spain, cats are part

of the scenery. So in a way, I

wanted to pay them a tribute.

Lastly, because Puss in Boots

wields a sword like Zorro with

paws!

What does being a Latino

mean to you?

Being a Latino means enjoying

making love, eating, drinking

and falling asleep under an

olive tree. Although actually I

feel more Andalusian, which

means doing all of the above

but with more refinement

and…much more often!

(laughs)

What does an Andalusian expat in the USA

drink?

The first time I set foot in the United States -

in California to be precise - I thought to

myself, “Goodness, how on earth am I going

to find some drinkable wines here?” In my

mind, the Americans had no skills when it

tapas and slices of Iberian ham, it really is

the perfect match. Unico is a refined,

complex wine with touches of blackberry

and blackcurrant. Actually, I won my wife

over with a bottle of Unico!

Tell us about it

We met on the set of “Two Much”. When we

exchanged glances, I felt electrified, I had

never been so attracted to a

woman. That same evening, she

came to my place. I wanted to

be in the kitchen and cook loads

of Andalusian specialities for her.

I can tell you that it was a real act

of love on my part because I

don’t particularly like to cook.

Melanie showed real class

because at no point did she “spit

out” any of the burnt food I

served up! (laughs) To make it

up to her, I opened a bottle of

Unico. You could see the rapture

in her eyes and she forgave me for

my extremely mediocre attempt

at cooking!

I believe you have joined the

wine industry yourself…

Yes! I bought Bodega Anta

Natura in 2009 and changed the

name to “Anta Banderas”. It is

located in the village of Villalba

de Duero and produces red wines

from Merlot and the local

Tempranillo grape variety. My

ambition is to promote these

quality wines and boost the wine

industry in northern Spain. The

region is well-known for the

quality of its oils and its centuries-old tradi-

tion of growing robust wines. Ultimately, I

would like holiday makers to flock to the

region to get to know and love our wines!

The potential is huge.

Interview in Toronto by Frank ROUSSEAU

Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association

Antonio Banderas


This blonde bombshell needs nointroductions. Winner of an Oscar for

Best Actress in “Monsters”,icon of the “Dior, j’adore”advertising campaign,Charlize Theron is SouthAfrican and proud of it.She lets us in on herother passion: wine.


STARS & WINE

Which wines do you drink with SouthAfrican specialities like biltong, made fromcured ostrich meat - an Afrikaansspeciality - or braaivleis, a piece of rump steakcooked over a wood fire, or the vegetable andmutton stew, breddie?It depends! In my home country, peopledrink lots of beer and not always sensibly.But wines - some of them excellent - arebecoming more and more popular. If youtravel to South Africa, a visit to Blaauklippenis a must. It’s one of my country’s oldestwine estates. Blaauklippen in Afrikaansmeans blue stones, which is the colour ofthe local granite rocks. South African winescan even be better than French wines. I amproud of the painstaking work achieved bylocal vineyards. By dint of hard work anddemanding standards, they have success-fully made South Africa one of the world’stop ten producers, and one of its best! SouthAfrica also offers the most exquisite scenery.The Cape wine region is an essentialdestination and when you’re invited tosomeone’s house, it’s always a jovial occasionwith a glass of wine in hand. I know lots ofFrench people who have made the trip andthey all came back absolutely overwhelmed

Tell us about your relationship withwine.I have often associated wine with fashion, orglam. Take a glass of wine with its stem, forinstance, doesn’t it remind you of a stilettoheel? The shape of the bottle is also pleasingto the eye. Then there’s the label, that’sreally important. It’s often what makes usbuy a bottle! When you pop the cork, it’s anact of love. That’s when all the fragrance isreleased. Your nose becomes filled with itsintoxicating scents. It bowls you over. Itdelivers a promise of the wonderfulmoments to come. For me, wine is alsoabout connecting with the people I love. Idon’t know if you have noticed, but as soonas you open a bottle of good wine, it sparkslengthy and often passionate debate!

So you don’t think wine is just for men? No! I don’t think there is anything moresexy than a superbly dressed womanproposing a toast with painted red nails,bringing a glass of red wine to her paintedred lips! I can’t describe it… it’s like timestops. What you want more than anything isto press the pause button and savour themoment forever, both visually and taste-wise.

Charlize Theron: “I love wanderingaround wine stores”

Interview in New York by Frank ROUSSEAU

Member of the Motion Picture Association of AmericaMember of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association

Char l ize Theron

by the welcome and the incredible qualityof our wines!

How much are you willing to spend on awine?It’s always better when you’re given wine!But you know, the older I get, the less I goshopping. I have noticed though that moreand more I love to wander around wineshops and go to wine tastings with peoplewhose life revolves around wine. You cansense their boundless love for the earth andfor what it yields. I love this bond. I willnever forget a winegrower in Stellenboschwho talked about his work in the vineyardas if he was talking about a woman, hiswife! His words reflected true love anddevotion.

Apparently, your nickname in Hollywood in“sparkly”. Why?No, not sparkly, even if I do loveChampagne! “Sparky”. Ben Affleck coinedthe nickname. When I asked him why, hesaid: “because you talk too much. Youremind me of those old pre-war radios thatgave off sparks!”

Isn’t “sparky” and “bombshell” a dangerouscombination?It depends who’s lighting the fuse! (laughs)Anyway, I love “explosive cocktails”!



RECOMMENDED WINES

POMEROL A.C.Château Vieux Maillet 2007 90 84 n/a Château Vieux Maillet 2008 89 89 n/a Château Vieux Maillet 2010 89 90-93 89-91Château Lafleur Gazin 2010 92 92-95 87-89Pomerol La Grave 2010 93 93-96 90-92Château Bourgneuf 2010 88 93-96 84-86Château Providence 2006 94 n/a 93Château Providence 2008 95 89-92 93Château Providence 2010 92 94-97 92-94Château Certan de May 2010 90 95-98 91-93Châteur La Fleur Petrus 2010 90 96-99 95-98Château Hosanna 2010 92 95-98 94-96Château Trotanoy 2010 90 96-99 93-95Château Mazeyres 2008 92 88 87-89Château Mazeyres 2010 90 n/a n/aChâteau L’enclos 2008 88 n/a 87-89Château L’enclos 2010 92 n/a n/aChâteau La Conseillante 2006 96 94 93Château La Conseillante 2008 94 91 95Château La Conseillante 2010 94 94-97 95-98Clos l'Eglise 2008 91 91 91Clos l'Eglise 2009 95 93-96 96-100Clos l'Eglise 2010 92 90-93 92-95Château La Croix de Gay 2009 92 89-92 91-93Château La Croix de Gay 2010 94 n/a 89-91Château La Fleur de Gay 2009 94 90-93 93-96Château La Fleur de Gay 2010 93 90-93 90-93Château Latour 2010 93 95-98 92-94Château Taillefer 2009 94 87-90 n/a Château Taillefer 2010 91 n/a n/aChâteau La Croix du Casse 2006 90 86 n/a Château La Croix du Casse 2010 94 n/a n/aChâteau Nenin 2006 90 91 87

For a comprehensive overview of some great wines of Pomerol, compare ourtasting notes with those of our well-known American competitors.*

*www.gilbertgaillard.com, *www.winespectator.com and *www.erobertparker.com

GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E

n/a = not available

WINE SCORES

95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir

meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,

complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which

we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,

structure and neatness for

a pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in

our publications.


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RECOMMENDED WINES

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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with acapital of 35,500 euros • Head office: 7 Parc des Fontenelles,78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorialdirector: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: fourth quarter 2011 •Joint consultative committee: 0612 K 90504 • ISSN 2110-6762

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any formis expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articlesare given for information only and have no publicity purpose.

CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES FEATURED IN THIS ISSUEProvence - page 15 Domaine de l'Olivette+33 (0)4 94 98 58 [email protected]

Champagne - page 26-37Champagne Charles Clément+33 (0)3 25 92 50 [email protected]

Champagne Charles Heidsieck+33 (0)3 26 84 43 [email protected]

Champagne Deutz+33 (0)3 26 56 94 [email protected]

Champagne Drappier+33 (0)3 25 27 40 [email protected]

Champagne Moutardier+33 (0)3 26 59 21 [email protected]

Champagne Maurice Vesselle+33 (0)3 26 57 00 [email protected]

Champagne Palmer & Co+33 (0)3 26 07 35 [email protected]

Champagne Philippe Gonet+33 (0)3 26 57 53 [email protected]

Champagne Philipponnat+33 (0)3 26 56 93 [email protected]

Champagne Pierre Moncuit+33 (0)3 26 57 52 [email protected]

Champagne Piper-Heidsieck+33 (0)3 26 84 43 [email protected]

Champagne P. Lassalle-Hanin+33 (0)3 26 03 40 [email protected]

Champagne Le Royal Coteau+33 (0)3 26 59 71 [email protected]

Champagne Dautel-Cadot+33 (0)3 25 29 61 [email protected]

Champagne Paul Laurent+33 (0)3 26 81 91 [email protected]

Alsace - page 41Domaine Materne Haegelin et filles+33 (0)3 89 76 95 [email protected]

Cave Vinicole du Vieil Armand+33 (0)3 89 76 73 [email protected]

Domaine Pierre Frick+33 (0)3 89 49 62 [email protected]

Domaine Bott Frères+33 (0)3 89 73 22 [email protected]

Haegelin Bernard+33 (0)3 89 76 14 [email protected]

Crus bourgeois Page 45Château de Malleret+33 (0)5 56 35 05 [email protected]

Roussillon - page 51Domaine de Rancy+33 (0)4 68 29 03 [email protected]

Domaine Salvat+33 (0)4 68 59 29 [email protected]

Château Montana+33 (0)4 68 37 54 [email protected]

Les Terres de Mallyce+33 (0)4 68 73 86 [email protected]

GILBERT & GAILLARDT H E W O R L D W I D E W I N E S I G N A T U R E

Château Nenin 2010 93 92-95 90-92

Château La Pointe 2008 87 89 85

Château La Pointe 2010 92 91-94 89-91

Château Clos René 2008 90 n/a 88-90

Château Clos René 2010 95 n/a 88-90

Château Petit Village 2008 89 92 88

Château Petit Village 2009 92 92-95 88-90

Château Petit Village 2010 94 89-92 90-92

Vieux Château Certan 2006 97 95 96

Vieux Château Certan 2009 98 97-100 96-99

Vieux Château Certan 2010 90 96-99 96-98

Château Feytit-Clinet 2010 89 n/a 92-94

Château Le Caillou 2005 91 92-94 90

Château Le Caillou 2007 86 87-90 87-89

Château Bonalgue 2010 92 89-92 88-90

Château Beau Soleil 2006 89 90 n/a

Château Montviel 2005 88 89 87

Château Montviel 2007 92 85 84-86

Château Montviel 2010 90 90-93 n/a

Château Pierhem 2010 90 n/a n/a

Clos de la Vieille Eglise 2010 91 n/a 92-95

Château Fayat 2010 94 89-92 n/a

Château Plince 2010 92 91-94 89-86

Château Moulinet 2010 93 n/a n/a/

Château St-Pierre 2010 92 91-94 n/a

Château La Croix Taillefer 2010 94 n/a n/a

Château Tour Maillet 2009 93-96 86-88

Château Le Chemin 2010 89 88-91 n/a

Château Bellegrave 2007 89 83-86 83-85

Château du Domaine de l'Eglise 2010 92 n/a 87-89

gilbert & gaillard wine magazine - winter 2011 issue

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