Fabric Finishing Techniquesand Innovations

Objective 1.02

Fabric Finishes

Any special treatments that are applied to fabrics.

May be permanent or temporary.

Purposes of Fabric Finishes

Reduce undesirable characteristics.Improve desirable characteristics.Create specific designs.Offer smoother or firmer hand.Add specific properties, such as: wrinkle

resistance.

Greige Goods

Refers to fabric right off the loom.

Dyeing Textiles

DyesCompounds that penetrate and color fibers.Different fibers require different types.

Methods of Dyeing

StockSolution Yarn PieceProduct

Kinds of Dyes

Synthetic fiber dyes: dye depends on type of fiberAcid dyes: Acid producing compound is used in the dye bath. Used on wool, mohair, angora, and silk.Fiber reactive dyes: Dyes react to the molecules of fibers. Used on cotton, rayon, linen, hemp and silk. Disperse dye: used on polyester and acetate fibers.

Colorfast

Color in a fabric will not change.

Printing Textiles

Involves transferring color to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern of design.

Types of Printing

RollerScreenRotaryHeat transferResist

Roller Printing

Design is etched on copper rollers.Each color in design requires separate

roller.Simple and fast.Expensive

Screen Printing

Earliest known method.

Uses a screen to transfer print.

Different screen for each color.

Rotary Printing

Combines both roller and screen printing methods.

Heat Transfer

Dyes are first printed on paper.

Paper is placed on fabric and with heat and pressure, the design is transferred to fabric.

T-shirts are commonly printed with this method.

Resist Printing

Resist printing involves a two-step procedure in which a design pattern is printed on a white or dyed fabric with chemical or wax that will prevent the dyes from penetrating the fabric. When the fabric is dyed, the color is absorbed only where there is no resist. Then the resist is removed.

Resist Printing- uses wax or chemicals

Wood Block Printing

• Earliest form of printing

• Slowest method

Digital Printing

Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric.

Structural Design

Woven directly into the fabric.Provides an interesting texture.Example: jacquards

Finishes Affecting Appearance and TextureStone WashingAcid washingNappingFlockingBrushingEmbossing

Stone Washing and Acid Dyes

Stone Washing:•Hugely popular in the 1980’s.•Pumice stones used to create a faded fabric look.

Acid Dyes:•Introduced to produce same effects as stone washing.•Not environmentally friendly.

Enzyme Washes or Bio-Stoning

Less harmful for the environment.

Various effects can be achieved.

Can be used to soften fabric.

Napping

Raises the fiber ends to the surface to be clipped, brushed, or left raised. Creates a softer, fuzzy texture to the fabric.

Common fabrics include: fleece, suede flannel, corduroy, and velvet.

Flocking

Surface designApplied to the

fabric.Applying texture

by depositing many small fiber particles onto a surface of fabric.

Brushing

Mechanical FinishFabric passed

through wire rollers.Produces soft and

fluffy fabric.Common fabric:

fleece

Embossing

Fabric is passed through engraved rollers.

Creates a raised design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5yJOb8XmjE

Performance Finishes

Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/AntifungalAnti-staticDurable press (Permanent Press)Shrinkage control/SanfordizedMercerizationStain release/Stain resistant

Performance Finishes

Water repellent and waterproofFlame-resistantMildew resistanceMoth resistanceWrinkle resistant/

Crease resistant

Innovations in Textiles

MicrofibersPolor fleeceBamboo fabric-biodegradableLyocel (Tencel)- Made from wood pulp

from trees grown in replanted forests.

http://www.bambooclothing.co.uk/why_is_bamboo_better.html

Innovations in Textiles

Biocotton- developed fiber that is non-allergic.Nanotechnology- molecular structure of the

chemicals used to form fibers has been altered.Micro Encapsulation Particles are filled

with active ingredients

and applied to the

fabric or garment.

Examples- moisturizers,

insect repellents

Green Fabric Finishes

Reduce the health and environmental impact by lowering the amount of chemicals and other harmful substances used in the finishing process.

Smart Fabrics

E-textiles (Electronic Textiles)

Fabrics that enable digital components to be embedded.

Wearable technology