en vie - march 2011

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Time to thaw out your spring fashions!

Mercedes BenzFashion Week

takes us for a spinCalvin KleinCollection

Our interview

Chinese fusion from Liu Hui Li

Why Shanghai?Frau Ana flls us in

Expert advice from

Accessoriesstraight out ofthe pencil case

FEATURING:

3Leslie Scott

and more...

www.en-vie- fashion.com

TM

MARCH

2 0 1 1

vol.6

in China:

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EDITOR IN CHIEF

Gerd Kramer

ART DIRECTOR

Wesley Wang

EDITOR

Trevor Fradgley

SUB EDITORS

Michael Hobbs

Chris Roaf

Mary Simcox

JAPANESE EDITORS

Shoko Namba

Tomoko Fujii

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Anna Hardwick

DESIGNER

Daria Miura

Yuqi Nakamura

ILLUSTRATORS

Warren Popelier

Zandra Koe

Ross Wirtanen

WEB & PR MANAGERS

Andrea Landa

Do Triquoc

Betria S Rossa

STYLISTS

Ewa Fiutak

Justyna Korusiewicz

Tomoko Fujii

ASSISTANT

Naoko Higashiyama

Contents7

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NEWS International Fashion News

RUNWAY Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin

COLLECTION Calvin Klein Collection, China

FEATURE DESIGNER Liu Hui Li

LIFE IN COLOUR Frau Ana

NEWCOMER DESIGNER Ayushi Shah

FASHION RESOLUTIONS How to Build a CompleteWardrobe, Part 3

ACCESSORIES Colour Pencil

HOROSCOPE March 2011

WORLD CORNER Travel Neednt be so Dull

Disclaimer: Every effort is made to ensure a ll En Vie media is up-to-date. Please note that opinions expressed herein are not necessarily endorsed bythe publisher. The publisher cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or distress resulting in errors, omissions or from adherence to any advicein this magazine. The publisher takes no responsibility for the quality or content of advertisements. All rights reserved by the copyright holder.To see the full disclaimer please go to http://www.en-vie-fashion.com/disc_engl.htm

FRONT COVER Photographer:Giuseppe Ciaola, [email protected]

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The week was highlighted by seventies flair,lots of leather and a continual love affair with

monochromatic shades. Heavy doses of colourwere used sporadically for dramatic effect too.Rena Langes show had a distinctive air of thelady about town, featuring knee length boots,full length coats and silk dresses in playfulprints, dark circular sunglasses and oppy hats.

The looks encompassed a high-end womanwith an eye for sophistication. Blacky Dressgave us leopard prints, lashes of leather inbrowns and sangria reds that threw us backto the experimental seventies. Models ttinglystrode condently down the aisle with blownout perms.

Fur also made a comeback. Fur and the incor-poration of accessories such as clutches, beltsand hats were expertly used to create winningensembles in the Schumacher and Dimitrishows. Shumacher brought more seventiesvibe with vivid orange, sky blue and purplefinished with fur. Oustandingly, Italian brandDimitri proved that he could be innovative withhis cuts, use of materials and create original,ultra chic and wearable pieces for the womanof this millennium. His subtle use of browns andreds, sprinkling of fur and headwear, punctuated

a versatile yet united collection.

Hugo by Hugo Boss put out a strong collectionwith bold uses of white, black and red. Togetherwith impeccable tailoring, Boss effortlesslyfused business and pleasure for the sassy,no-nonsense urbanite. Some of the more sur-prising moments were found in the LeverCourture l ine featuring see-through gownsand what appeared to be a white rufe mountainshufing down the runway. Black Swan-esquetutus were also on the menu. Maicco fascinatedwith an asymmetric collection of unusual colourcombinations like dark green and grey. But mostmemorable was the Georgian desi-gners unique

Words by Michael HobbsPhotos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week,http://www.mercedes-benzfashionweek.com/

Mercedes BenzFashion Week Berlin

The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin unveiled Autumn/Winter collections for 2011

late last January drawing big names of the fashion and entertainment industry. The

impressive event comprising of 40 designers was right at home in a city abound with

creatives in the music, lm and fashion scene.

detailing of shapes and patches sewn overgarments that pulled us in for a closer look.

Revelling on home-turf, Berlin born MichalskysUrban Nomads collection thoughtfully concen-trated on the interplay between the urbanenvironment and the humans that inhabit it.

The clean, sharp looks encapsulated Germanaesthetic with industrial greys, blacks and hitof magenta. High waist lines enhanced theheight of models and the use of leather glovesand boots. aviator eyewear and slick hairstylingimbued thriving urbanites committed to theirsurroundings.

A fine representation of an incredible eventthats fast gaining on other European centresof fashion.

RUNWAY

Ida Sjstedt at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin

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DimitriPelger

UnrathStrano

Lala Berlin

Irene Luft

Featuring at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin...

Cest Tout

RenaLange

BlackyDress

Hugo

MaiccoMichalsky

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Photography and editing:Gabriella de Martino

Model: Marisya at M&Pmodes, London

Fashion: AlexandraHester-Greenhill

Make up: Sian Duke

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Words by ErikaPhotos courtesy of YIHUI

The designer, Liu Hui Li, uses simplefabrics to create extraordinary designs,predominately using cotton and silk.

Her most impressive designs, are aseries of cheongsams that featurehand painted owers. Each of the fouroral patterns (plum blossom, orchid,bamboo and chrysanthemum) cleverlyllustrate four major temperaments ofa Chinese lady. The owers are knownas the Four Gentlemen and havebeen used in Chinese paintings.

To know more about Liu Hui Li and herthoughts on fashion we sat down withher for an interview.

En Vie: So Mrs Liu, what made you

want to be a fashion designer?

Liu: I have many hobbies and I lovepainting. I was naturally born with asense for colour and beautiful things.When I was child I had many new ideasand would like to break the old rules.Even before I did my homework I wouldpaint something nice on the blankspace. After high school I studied atChina Textile University (Donghua

University). I chose Fashion Design tobe my major. The reason for this Ihoped I could have my own team andmake my dream come true. Make mynspiration and idea of art become true.And fashion is the closest art to ourife. I think my decision to bec ome afashion designer was the right one.

En Vie: Where do you fnd/get

nspiration?

Liu: I get a lot from traditional Chineseculture. I love to read art books too. Ithink a good designer not only needsthe joy of visuals but also a naturalelegance and soul.

En Vie: Whats the most important

thing in your life?

Liu: Just fashion and design. I love toput my heart into my job.

En Vie: Well, what is fashion to you?

Liu: Fashion is a sense of beauty injust one moment.

En Vie: Where do you want to be in

5 years?

Liu: My brand, YiHui has Ladies andMens garments. It is time. We are readyfor the market. We are planning tolaunch the brand on a large scale too.

En Vie: If you dont mind sharing,

whats in your closet right now?

Liu: My clothes always have Chineseelements and mix with a modern style,mostly clothes from my own designs.I think its most important that I showpeople a sophisticated taste.

En Vie: How do you see Chinese

fashion in the world now? How do

you see it in the future?

Liu: I think Chinese fashion is animportant part of the fashion world.Chinese fashion must, with its ownintention, create a brand culture. Thengreat designs can follow.

Chinese label, Yi Hui, incorporates Chinese traditional elements and

emphasizes sparkling seams and form-tted garments.

I get a lot from traditional

Chinese culture. I love to

read art books too. I think

a good designer not only

needs the joy of visuals but

also a natural elegance

and soul.

Liu Hui Li

En Vie: Do you have a message

for En Vie readers?

Liu: We are lucky in this age every-one can have their own idea of fashion.

Anybody can break the rules and createtheir own beauty. I hope you can enjoythe fun that comes from fashion!

FEATUREDESIGNER

YIHUIShanghai Yihui Fashion Design Co.

Tel: 021-62360293

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Photography:Gabriella De Martino

Photography Assistant:Antonio Patrizio

Model: AnnaSophie atM&P Models, London

Fashion: Mariana Abella

Fashion assistant:Olivia Snapes

Designs: Florencia Kozuch& Mariana Abella

Make-up: Buba Varkopic

Hair: Stefano Mazzoleni

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En Vie: Ana, how did you come to be in

Shanghai?

Ana: Shanghai and me? Its fate. I woke upone morning and Shanghai was calling me. Iwas still in university in Germany at the time,but I just knew that I had to go to Shanghai.

After I graduated, I followed the voice in myhead, and fell in love with the city as soon as

my plane arrived at Pudong airport. The rstthree years I spent working for a German brandas a designer and brand manager, but I alwaysknew that sooner or later I would start my ownbrand. I wanted to show the world my feelingsabout fashion.

En Vie: Whats it like working as a fashion

designer in Asia?

Ana: The secret about designing is theinspiration. As soon as it hits you, the ideas

Words by Susie GordonPhotos courtesy of Frau Ana

Hailing from Germany, Ana Frau is

the creative talent behind Frau Ana, a

Shanghai-based design house that is best

known for bright colours and bold neon.

Life inColour

Im constantly creating new

ideas to show the world that they

shouldnt be afraid of colours.

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just dont stop popping into your mind. Andwith all the inspiring inuences in Shanghaiall the new things Im getting to see here, allthe interesting people from everywhere in theworldthe inspiration comes in big waves. So,

simply put, there couldnt be a better place forme than Shanghai.

En Vie: Do you have a muse?

Ana: My muse always has been and alwayswill be my mother. She loves wearing colourfulclothes. In fact, I think she passed me thecolour-genes. My best friends are also a greatinspiration to me, just by being a part of my life.

En Vie: How does the Asian fashion scene

compare with the west?

Ana: The rst major difference that I noticedactually changed my own way of dressing:the women here dress in a very feminineway. In Shanghai its not just about wearingcomfortable jeans and a shirt, as you often

see on the street in Germany. Here, you aresurrounded by skirts and pretty dresses, and itmade me fall back in love with those garments.What I especially love about Asian fashion isthat people are less afraid of colours. Thanks

for that, guys!

En Vie: What defnes your style?

Ana: Its pink! Its blue! Its simply colourful. Forme, fashion is fun; its about expressing yourmood and creating the perfect mirror for yourfeelings. To accomplish this, the best helpersare bright colours and comfortable fabrics, withlots of accessories.

En Vie: What are you working on at the

moment?

Ana: I call it the pink epidemic! Im constantlycreating new ideas to show the world that theyshouldnt be afraid of colours. Surroundingyourself with bright colours can really lift yourmood and make you happier.

ts pink! Its blue! Its simply colourful. For me, fashion

fun; its about expressing your mood and creating

the perfect mirror for your feelings.

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Lesley Scott looks at how to build a wardrobe for every occasion and how to put

these pieces together. In the last two issues we looked at ve Cant-Fail tips and

the rst 10 key must have basics for your wardrobe. Now we will complete your

collection with the nal 10 pieces.

Get a Wardrobe That Matches Your Life & Ups Your Style Game

New YearsFashion Resolution:

FASHIONSOLUTIONS

SCARVES A classic Hermes silk square canbe tied to a bag for added panache, wornas an ascot under a buttondown (so GwenStefani!), or even double as a chic belt orheadband. Tying on a more casual oblongcotton-print scarfor colorful cashmere/woolpashmina version in winterinstantly ups thewow factor of any ensemble.

Yves Saint Laurent leopard-print silk-muslinscarf $560

DRESSES A universally-flattering wrap, orshirt dress in each of your foundation colors,as well as one or two (or five) in a print orcheery bright color you love. To dress down,simply toss on your casual print scarf (#11) anda denim or leather jacket with ats; dress upfor work or an interview with heels, your LeSmoking jacket, or suit jacket (all seen in theprevious issue).

Jil Sander Greenwich belted cotton-poplindress $1175

GLAMOROUS OVERSIZED SUNGLASSESEssential for looking polished any time youleave the house, plus great for no-makeuperrand daysespecially if theres any risk ofrunning into a frenemy or an ex.

Gucci square-framed acetate sunglasses $295

CARDIGANS GALORE From airplanes toshops to office buildings to the subway tomovie theatres, ubiquitous air conditioningmeans its always freezing inside. A nely-spuncotton or silk-blend cardigan is a stylish way toward off any chill, while punching up whateveryoure wearing. Have at least one in eachfoundation color, plus every bright color thatlooks good on you, and definitely an animalprint or two (think a charcoal trouser or dark

jean, white buttondown, striking necklace,and topped off with a leopard print cardifaaaabulous!)

Diane von Furstenberg Ibiza animal-print woolcardigan $245

MANS SHIRT The sexiest thing a womancan wear (if its from an actual man & wornwith little else) or equally fabulous when its abit more tailored & paired with jeans, a suit, leSmoking, a pencil skirt, denim skirt, trousersthe list is endless. Stock up in foundation-colorversions in silk and cotton, plus a few prints orbright colors. For a fun going-out alternativeto your LBD, rock your silk mens shirt with atailored dark pant, ats, a sleek low pony tail& no makeup save bright red lipstick. Can yousayor should we say, ditesFrench femmefatale?

Burberry studded cotton-blend shirt $350

ACCESSORIES The cherry on your fashionsundae. Make sure youve got any number ofclassic-width belts in high quality fabricationsin your foundation hues, plus some fun colorsand options (vintage belts are a great option;try eBay for fabulous, yet inexpensive ones).

Also: a really great watch, statementnecklace(s), funky fedoras & hats, and funearrings. While its no longer considered a fauxpas to mix gold and silver, here is a solid ruleof thumb: if your foundation color is charcoalor navy, ie. a cool shade, silver is your mostchic choice, while gold looks uber-rich withsimilarly warm-toned hues of brown or camel.

And black? It swings both ways.

Michael Kors gold-plated & leather watch$140; Melissa Odabash Panama straw hat$110; Lanvin Clou Diamants chain-linknecklace $3140

Words by Lesley Scott, Editor in Chief of Fashiontribes.comPhotos 11-18 courtesy of net-a-porter.comPhoto 20 courtesy of Chanel

NET-A-PORTER.COM

is the worlds premier onlineluxury fashion retailer. With a

huge range of designer labels,its never been so easy to indulgeall your fashion fantasies. Go to

www.net-a-porter.comand enjoy.

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SOMETHING TRENDY Gotta have jeggings,those cargo skinnies half of Hollywood hasbeen photographed in, or anything acid-washed? This is the time to get your Zara,H&M, Forever 21, or Gap on. Youll probablybe bored with them in about ve minutes sodont spend a lotafter all, why add to yourNew Years Day hangover with a questionablefashion-$plurge hangover as well?

Erdem printed-silk Dachshund toy $270;Lanvin Illustrated Dress notebook $40 &pen $90

CUTE LOUNGEWEAR A snuggly, but notsloppy, hoodie and sleek matching yogapant are a great option for walking the dog,spending the evening in, or running errands(see #16 for more on being prepared forpossible encounters with frenemies or exes).

Lounge Lover Travel babe lounge set $475

GIVE GOOD FACE If you havent yet, its timeto master the five-minute face. Remember:your goal isnt to look made up, but to looklike you have perfect skin, elegant eyebrows,a healthy glow, and plush lips. Indispensabletools: a really good concealer, impeccableeyebrows (either expertly applied by you ortweezed to perfection by an actual expert), aattering neutral eyeshadow, blush, powder ormatte anti-shine sheets, and a natural-lookinglipstick or gloss for day and something moresexed up for evening. (And be sure to stasheverything in a cute makeup bag that candouble as an evening clutch in pinch.)

Laura Mercier Lip Colour Crme $22

SIGNATURE FRAGRANCE Coco Chanelonce remarked: A women who doesnt wearperfume has no future. Obviously, you dontwant this to be you.

Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum $80

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Make up: Sian Duke

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Who would have thought coloured pencils couldturn out to be such an interesting accessory idea.In Marias hands, the dull roughness of ordinarypencils is rounded into a simple, pure form.Whats more impressive, the polished shapes ofleads are full of dynamic changes and energy.

Thanks to Maria, everyday stuff thats rarely usedas accessories, naturally comes into our view,decorating our imagination with vivid colour. SinceFelissimo relanuched 500 colour pencils in 2009,Marias hands have been busy. Just as the sloganof Felissimo says, Spark your imagination 500times over. Together, the colors suggest innitepossibilities.Colored pencils, we welcome you!

Can you tell us a little bit about your work

history?

For several years I worked as theatre costume andaccessories maker, creating also a wide rangeof jewellery for stage use. I developed a stronginterest for contemporary jewellery and I dedicatedmyself to it. What characterized my early workwas the use of very thin metal sheets and wires,experimenting with hollowness and fullness. Inlater work, I started using even thinner metalsheets, as if working with paper sheets, creatingpieces that were voluminous and light at the same

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Words by Lei ZhangImages: Maria Cristina Bellucci

Coloured pencils, is lik e Totos secret candy box. Its filled with pieces

of love from lm(Cinema Paradiso) and has always been waiting there to

be picked up. Like childhood memories coloured pencils recaptures the

feeling of finishing a school project or turning a heart into a sweetheart,whether your growing up or growing old. Its the same bedtime story told

in a new way. For Maria Cristina Bellucci, it materialised into a series of

accessories loved by the child within all adults.

The polished shapes of

leads are full of dynamic

changes and energy.

CCESSORIEStime. My more recent work is characterizedby having more solid looking elements andalso by the introduction of color, not previouslyexplored.

How have you thought to use everyday

colour pencils as a product for your

material?

Ive began using only one pencil with silverand then Ive thought to put together differentpencils because the hexagonal section givesthe possibility to have a continuous surfacewith a lot of different colours.

Did your theatre costume designing

experience influence your accessory

designing, especially the colour pencils

collection?

You cant see a direct inuence in my jewellery

research, the method and the purpose of thework are so different. But at the same time Imade a lot of practice experiences in a verydifferent way from my present work.

How long does it take to fnish one colour

pencils piece? Is the material easy to

work with?

I take a lot of time to give the right volume tothe object and especially to make the surfaceof the pencils so smooth.

Any plans or new projects for 2011?

Im working on a new project with othermaterials. Ill need a time to go on with thisidea. At the same time Ill take part in someexhibitions with my jewellery with colouredpencils in the next months in Germany,

Australia and Latvia.

http://www.mcbjewellery.com/

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Virgo

21st Mar20th Apr

Unprecedented chaos surrounds you: delayswith mail and computers crashing are among thetroubles you may encounter. However, there willalso be many new opportunities from now on.Fridays are good days to meet friends. At thebeginning and end of this month you may comeunder pressure and have small conicts.

21st Apr21st May

You should capitalize on your talents in personalrelationships and leadership areas. This monthyou will be full of energy at work. Use your freetime to contact your friends and get together fora drink. This month is lucky whether youre singleor attached.

22nd May21st Jun

This month there will be good chances for travelyou may nd you need to attend some socialevents or parties. Expand your contacts. Bepatient when listening to others and introduceinteresting topics, but stay away from discussingmoney.

22nd Jun22nd Jul

Interpersonal relationships can bring great pressurethis month. Prepare your work well beforehand,communicate with others and be sure to make aplan B just in case. Traveling is a good choice asthere will be good chances to make new friendson your trip. Its also a good time to start a newstage in your career.

23rd Jul23rd Aug

Avoid travel this month as there could be flight

delays, cancellations, lost luggage or even smallaccidents. You may start learning and studyingin a new field. There is also a chance for somesuccess in your current career, but be careful notto take risks by being over condent.

24th Aug23rd Sep

Time to check nances and get your accounts inorder. But its not all boring work March is alsoa good month to do something that you havealways wanted to do. There will be a relief ofpressure at work and you may even receive somepraise from your boss, if you are lucky you couldget a promotion or bonus. A word of adviceseeing is believing.

Words by Izumi

Aries

Taurus

Gemini

Cancer

Leo

Libra

Scorpio

Sagittarius

Capricorn

Aquarius

Pisces

24th Sep23rd Oct

Youll have plenty of time to rest so use it to focuson your interests. Be careful, there may be somemisunderstanding with friendships in March and

April. Work will go smoothly for Libras and youwill be able to reach your goals.

24th Oct22nd Nov

Keep a clear mind in any conicts. Try to spendmore time with your family on days off. Remember,

home is where the heart is. Expand your socialcircles as both new friendships and love interestscould be made for the lucky scorpio.

23rd Nov21st Dec

Different values will challenge your friendships.But turning to family relationships can reassureyou. Its a good time to put your heart and soulinto your work. A suggestion: Think things throughcarefully before doing anything.

22nd Dec20th Jan

You feel like you are being suffocated by responsi-bilities and pressure, making it easy f or you tolose your temper. Try to relax both mind and bodyand nd balance in your life. Avoid buying anythingunnecessary towards the end of the month.21st Jan19th Feb

Aquarian singles will be particularly attractive toothers this month. Those Aquarians that areattached; try creating some little surprises for yourother half. Prepare for a rainy day. Condence andcourage will help you reach your goals.

Feb 20thMar 20thMore haste less speed is your March motto.Better to pause and arrange everything moreefciently than to dive right in. Although your hardwork may not bring any obvious success in theshort short-term, sooner or later it will bring greatrewards. Couples should make a special time forromance. Saving should be your priority.

March Horoscope 2011

HOROSCOPE




Make up: Sian Duke

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COMIC

Everything that I saw came in either beige or black, it was all so daggy anduninspiring. So with a love of vintage/new fabrics, shopping, travelling the

world and all things colourful, Alison created a range of travel accessoriesto combine all these passions. I wanted to create a range of unique travelpieces that are as colourful and fun as the voyage they intend to be takenon. I love hearing feedback from my customers who have taken my warestravelling around the world, its a great buzz knowing my designs arespread out all over the globe.

The Past

I grew up in the Hunter Valley New South Wales and after finishing highschool I went on to train as a photographer for 5 years. These were thedays when all things were analogue and fun was to be had in the darkroomwith chemicals, but when the times changed and things went digital, I turnedto a sewing machine and enrolled in a clothing production course at TAFE.

This taught me the finer skills of sewing and I went on to start my ownclothing label inspired by the fabrics and styles of the 1950s aprons.

I wanted to create a range of

unique travel pieces that are as

colourful and fun as the voyage

they intend to be taken on.

neednt be so dull!Words by Kornelia

Photos by Alison Bodman

A trip to Europe inspired the work of Alison Bodman and her travel

accessories.

How are your pieces made?

The process is very time consuming, from finding the right materials togood quality accessories such as buckles and elastic. Sourcing fabricsthat suit my designs is hard work but can be lots of fun. All my designs are100% made by me, so its a steady process as I am so picky, every stitchhas to be perfect.

Highlights of your business?

Definitely a main highlight to any artist/designer is their first sale, havingrepeat customers and seeing someone wear or use one of your designs,and you just want to yell to the whole pub, hey I made that!

Any suggestions for people looking to start in the handmade

business?

Keep at it, follow your passions. People out there want something uniqueand handmade. It makes it that little bit more special if it was made by you!

Whats next?

I have recently returned from a trip to Senegal, West Africa where I boughtlots of gorgeous fabrics in amazing colours in which I want to incorporateinto my designs. Though I am a little nervous to cut them up as each piecetells a story.

Travel

Alison Bodman

[email protected]

WORLDCORNER

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