CANBERRA GERANIUM & FUCHSIA SOCIETY INC. 2017

www.cgfs.org.au PRESIDENT Bonnie Laros 6286 5185 VICE-PRESIDENT Maria Geppert 6288 7056 SECRETARY Mary Jo Shawcross 6231 6206 TREASURER Judy Kilpatrick 6231 5032 JOURNAL EDITOR Janelle Peel 6238 2381 COMMITTEE PUBLIC OFFICER Rex Daley 6281 3213 SHOW ADVISOR Renate Marcks 6288 3367 PUBLICITY Janet Johnson 6247 0937 COMMITTEE MEMBERS Beth Gibbs 6251 1916 Fay-Marg Shaw 6251 8296 SOCIETY ADDRESS PO Box 425, Curtin, ACT 2605 EDITORIAL E-MAIL hans.mohr2@bigpond.com MEMBERSHIP FEES The membership fees (January – December) are Single $20.00, Family $30.00 and International memberships $30.00. Members who join after 1st November will be credited for the following year. All financial members of the Society receive a copy of the Journal, which is currently published twice a year. Whilst every effort is made to ensure that the information therein is correct, it is the individual authors who accept the responsibility for the contents of their articles. Unless otherwise stated, with the exception of January and July and possibly December, all meetings are held on the first Saturday of each month at 2.00 p.m. in St. James Uniting Church Hall, 21 Gillies Street, Curtin. Please remember to wear your name tag so that we can all get to know each other, and you must sign the Attendance Book when you arrive, this will ensure that you are covered by the Public Liability Insurance that the Society pays each year.

COMMITTE REPORT FOR 2017 At the AGM in March we encountered challenges in filling committee positions with a small decreasing group of people carrying the ever increasing load to ensure the society keeps operating. A number of committee members have volunteered to be society president for 2017 and we thank Janelle Peel, Bonnie Laros, Judy Kilpatrick and Janet Johnson for stepping up to be president. Looking back at a 2004 journal there were 23 committee functions listed and more than 25 people carrying out these functions. Today we have 10 committee members to carry out these roles. It is a very hard working committee but we need support. For example in addition to the committee, only four extra volunteers came forward

(from a base of 83 financial members) to help out at our Plant Sale in October. So members please consider coming forward to help out at events or to undertake a role with the committee. As they say many hands make light work! The committee have managed a full year of activities so far holding propagation/cutting workshops in March and April, a society winter social gathering at the Burns Club (36 attendees), a planned bus trip in October to the Bundanoon Garden Ramble, and two plant sales and mini displays to be held in October and November. In addition a journal is published every April and October and guest speakers Joan Powell (August) and Cedric Bryant (November) have shared and entertained us with their knowledge and know-how. In addition we are lucky enough to have some very generous members who have or will have opened their gardens to members. These are Peter Threlfall (October), Renate Marcks (March 2018), and Daryl Powell (March 2018). Many thanks to those who assist the committee by: writing articles; bringing plants for cuttings and show and tell; preparing and packing up at each meeting; preparing, serving and cleaning up our afternoon tea at meetings; arranging promotion of the society in local newspapers and radio shows; finding and/or donating raffle prizes; and sharing your knowledge, experience and know-how. All society members are truly grateful for your generosity. We also appreciate those members who share their knowledge of pelargoniums and fuchsias and provide practical advice at meetings.

CALENDAR OF EVENTS: OCTOBER 2017 – APRIL 2018 7 October - Curtin Plant Sale A plant sale is being held at the St James Uniting Church hall instead of the usual monthly meeting. Opening time is limited to 2.00 p.m. – 4.00 p.m. Set up is from 12.15 p.m. and pack up from 4.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. Entry Fee $2 non-members, free for members. 14 October – Open Garden Peter Threlfall’s home, 26/5 Delamere St, Hawker, 2.00 – 4.00 p.m. for members only. Please park outside or near no. 5 Delamere St and walk into the complex. 21 October – Bus Trip to the Bundanoon Garden Ramble. See page 6 for additional information.

4 November – Monthly Meeting The Meeting will be followed by our guest speaker the much-loved Cedric Bryant who will also take care of any Q & A you may have, then our short social get together - afternoon tea. 11 November The Society is having a small display and plant sale at the Horticultural Society Spring Exhibition and Rose Show at the Wesley Hall, Wesley Uniting Church Centre, National Circuit, Forrest. Hours are Saturday noon–5p.m. Members are asked to volunteer their time for a couple of hours. 2 December – Xmas Party at St James Uniting Church Members to bring a small plate of nibbles or sweets, a garden related gift to the value of $5.00. 3 February – Monthly Meeting Normal monthly meeting, planning of activities for the remainder of 2018. If possible a guest speaker, Q & A, “show and tell”, Library and afternoon tea. 3 March – Annual General Meeting followed by Taking Geranium & Pelargonium Cuttings. A workshop is being held for members only. Bring along a plant that can be used to take cuttings, or cuttings, scissors, pots, labels, and a marker pen. Soil will be provided, “Show and Tell”, Q & A Time, Library, Afternoon tea. 17 March – Open Fuchsia Garden and afternoon tea Daryl Powell is having an open garden for members from 2.00 p.m. – 4.00 p.m. at his home at 90 Captain Cook Crescent, Griffith. Members are asked to bring a hat, chair and a plate to share. 31 March - Open Pelargonium Garden and afternoon tea at Renate Marcks home, 12 Burrinjuck Crescent Duffy 2.00 p.m. Please bring along your hat and a chair. (Members only) 7 April – Monthly Meeting followed by Taking Fuchsia Cuttings. A workshop is being held for members only. Please bring along cuttings or a plant that can be used to take cuttings, scissors, pots, labels and a marker pen. Soil will be provided. “Show and Tell”, Q & A Time, afternoon tea. 5 May – Monthly Meeting “Show and Tell,” Q & A, Library and our special Guest speaker for the month will give a presentation on Bees, involving everything from their life cycle to collecting swarms in the Canberra region. This of course is followed by our usual delicious afternoon tea.

NEW MEMBERS The Society welcomes new members Brenda Ballantyne, Kaye Mongan, Fay Rowe and Susann Morgan who have joined the society since the publication of our last journal in April 2017.

THANKS The committee would like to thank Sue Faulkner for embroidering a lovely fuchsia bookmark donated by Judy Kilpatrick. The bookmark was a raffle prize at our October Plant Sale. Thanks also go to Peter Threlfall for repairing the society's sign which was recently broken on a windy day. Thanks Phil and Sue O'Brien for carrying out the repairs before then.

SOCIETY WEBSITE MANAGER - BEN O'BRIEN Following on from the last journal and with no volunteers coming forward, Ben O'Brien has advised that he is happy to continue being the society's website manager. Ben is keen to update and further develop the site so that some slightly tech savvy person will be able to manage the more simple updates. The website (www.cgfs.org.au) is a valuable resource tool and information source for members and other pelargonium and fuchsia lovers. It needs to be up to date or it becomes obsolete very quickly. . Is there a member out there who would like to take on this liaison/feedback role with Ben? If so or if you have any practical suggestions to improve the website please contact Judy Kilpatrick on 02 62315032 who can forward your suggestions to Ben.

PUBLICATION OF SOCIETY JOURNAL - APRIL & OCTOBER The Society's journal is now published twice a year in April and October and, where possible, members will receive the journal electronically.

ORGANIC ROSE GERANIUM SOAP SOCIETY FUNDRAISER - SOLD OUT! THANK YOU MEMBERS!

Sanctum Sustainable Organics kindly allowed the Society to purchase at cost price some lovely certified organic soap (100g), scented with Rose Geranium and Calendula, to use as a fundraiser. Many thanks to all those members who purchased the soap over the last year and thank you to past president Sue O'Brien for organising this special fundraiser. Sale of the soap raised $177.36 of valuable funds for the society. The Society also has items for sale such as society spoons and badges. Due to postage costs we cannot mail out purchases. Items will remain on sale until sold out. Items can be purchased at our monthly meetings

PLANT SALE AND DISPLAY - HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY SPRING ROSE SHOW 11 NOVEMBER 2017

Don't forget our Society is having a plant sale and display at the Horticultural Society's Spring Rose Show on 11 November 2017 from 12.00 p.m. to 5p.m. Come along and support two great local gardening clubs. Entry is by gold coin donation and besides pelargoniums and fuchsias for sale, the Cacti and Succulent Society will also have plants for sale. The Horticultural Society would also encourage members to consider entering plants on the competition tables. There are a number of protocols to be followed and as a starting point please refer to the Horticultural Society's website at www.hsoc.org.au.

SUBSCRIPTION RENEWAL The Society's financial year runs from January to December so 2018 subscriptions will become due on 1 January 2018. Please fill in the form at the back of the journal and post it to the Society's postal address, PO Box 425 Curtin, ACT 2605 or alternatively pay the Treasurer at the February 2018 or March 2018 meetings. If you would prefer to pay via direct debit to the Society's account please contact the Treasurer, Judy Kilpatrick on 02 62315032 to obtain the necessary bank details. Our constitution states that members whose subscriptions remain unpaid by 31 March each year shall be deemed to have resigned. Don't let this happen to YOU! For those who joined at the time of the 2017 Bundanoon bus trip, membership is not due until January 2019.

AGM - SATUDAY 3 MARCH 2018 The Society's Annual General Meeting will be held on Saturday 3 March 2018. At the AGM we will confirm the minutes from the previous AGM, the Treasurer will provide an updated and audited financial report, and office holders will be elected. Key office holders to be elected are: President, 2 x vice President, Treasurer and Secretary who form the Executive. In addition other elected committee members include Membership Records, Journal Editor, Display Organiser and Program Organiser. There must be seven elected members to have a functioning committee. In addition members can nominate and be elected as committee members without a formal role. In order to nominate you must be a financial member of the society. The Society's committee is in need of some new members to help share the workload and maintain the minimum number of 7 committee members to keep the society functioning. You don't need to have a specific key role or skills but can participate as a general committee member.

Contact Rex Daley 02 62813213 or Judy Kilpatrick 02 62315032 if you are interested in joining the committee, all offers warmly welcomed. A nomination form is included at the end of this journal.

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South Pacific Hydroponics generously give members a 10% discount on all purchases! SMALL 4CM POTS NEEDED (SQUARE OR ROUND) Over the years members have taken many cuttings during our workshops with all pots, soil and equipment supplied by the society. However we now have a shortage of small black pots for cuttings. If any members have any spare pots that they can now return to the society please bring them to the next meeting or contact Judy Kilpatrick on 62315032 or 0417315032 for collection. If you still have any surviving plants in these it's time to pot them on! BUNDANOON GARDEN RAMBLE 21 OCTOBER 2017 A bus trip is being organised to the Bundanoon Garden Ramble on Saturday 21 October 2017. Pick up points are Queanbeyan at 6.45am, Mawson 7.15am and Southwell Park 7.45 am. Unfortunately we cannot wait for people who are late, so please be on time. Cost of the trip is approximately $45 members, $65 new members and non-financial members. (Approximate expenses are $20 entry to gardens, $25 bus, $20 membership fee for new and non-financial members). We ask that you make cash/cheque payments prior to the trip and please call me if you would prefer to deposit direct into the society's operating account. We will be travelling with Deane Transport Services. Morning tea will be provided.

First stop will be at the Soldier's Memorial Hall at Bundanoon. We will have morning tea here and those inclined can visit the hall market for a tempting array of garden related products and plants. For the last two years Robyn Bible (member of Sydney Pelargonium Society) has sold a large range of pelargoniums so members should be able to find a plant or two. Toilet facilities are available. There are usually 8 gardens open and it will depend on time as to how many we will see, so if you know of any of the gardens or have any preferences which gardens we visit please let me know. A more detailed itinerary will be advised on the day. We hope that the bus will be able to reach most garden entries so as to minimise walking between gardens. Bring along your lunch, hat, chair and water. I would expect that we would get back to Canberra at approximately 6.30 - 7.00pm or maybe earlier. The bus will carry up to 48. If you have any friends who may be interested please ask them as a full bus means a great day out. The web site is www.bundanoongardenramble.org.au. Call Judy Kilpatrick on 62315032 or 0417315032 to register your interest at this stage. At the time of journal publication we have not had a huge response for this trip. A smaller bus is being negotiated and will involve an extra $5-7 cost depending on final numbers. Please contact Judy urgently if you wish to join the bus trip. Numbers are to be finalised by 10 October 2017.

OPEN GARDENS AND GARDEN FESTIVALS The following 7 gardens are in the Canberra area and close to home. All gardens are open from 10am to 4pm. Garden entry is free to members of the Canberra Open Gardens. . Non-members $8 for one garden. Children under 18 accompanied by an adult have free entry. Membership is $25, which gives free garden entry for a year. “Yellow Box”, Spring Range: 28 - 29 October, 447 Spring Range Road, Spring Range, Yellow Box’ comprises about a hectare of densely planted native plants of great variety, on an elevated rocky knoll. The garden, started in 1997, includes many

meandering, pleasant paths taking visitors to many garden sections, including vegetable beds and an orchard. The 45 acre property, featuring some native pastures, also includes land care shelter belts on its perimeter. Mown paths allow visitors to take short walks around the perimeter of the garden and to special plantings a bit further afield. Driving directions: Turn right off Barton Highway, 2 kilometers north of Hall, onto Spring Range Road. Travel 4 kms east along Spring Range Road. 447 is on left, with sign ‘Yellowbox’. Christine’s Garden: 4-5 November, 48 Weathers Street, Gowrie, A very large suburban garden with an amazing variety of plants. Rock walls allow for built up garden beds with improved soil and drainage. English box hedges divide areas including a parterre garden. Large mirrors on the boundary fences create illusions of depth. Tour Rouge: 11-12 November, 21 Meadows Lane, Carwoola A delightful one acre Mediterranean style garden designed around three main axis. A series of garden rooms are delineated by plantings including Leighton Greens, Pyrus Manchurian Pears and Westwoods, Italian pencil pines, Smaragds and Flowering Cherries. Hedging plants such as English Box, Lonicera Nitida and Pileata, Green Pillar Pittosporum and Princess of Wales have also been well-utilised in the design. Structural elements reflect the owners’ interest in Italy and France and include two sand-stone terraces, a columned arbour, an archway and sunken garden, a courtyard, a loggia with kitchen, open fire, wood fired pizza oven and finally a two storey round tower with belfry – the red tower reflected in the garden’s name. Wanna Wanna Homestead: 11-12 November, 149 Wanna Wanna Road, Carwoola. Historic European style garden with a heritage listed slab hut from 1830. The garden is laid out in southern highlands style and surrounded by trees dating back to the early 19th Century. The more recent additions include a water garden. A profusion of old fashioned roses complements the setting. Members coming to the Carwoola gardens are welcome to come on to Janelle’s home at 95 Radcliffe Circuit, for a cuppa. Please contact her for directions and to let her know the approximate time you are likely to arrive. Ph 6238 2381. Pillans Garden: 11-12 November, 30 Aspen Rise, Jerrabomberra. Planting of this large all-native garden began in 2003. Today the garden features over 1000 individual species, including more than 70 acacia species and more than 70 grevillea species, making for a spectacular spring display. A wide range of bird species frequent the garden and the number is increasing as the garden develops. Existing mature eucalypts are complemented by plants sourced from a wide variety of local, regional and far-flung sources, including some not normally grown in the Canberra region. One section of the garden has been developed as a dry rainforest’ gully using species with glossy, dark green leaves.

Funds raised from the open garden will be given to the National Rock Garden. An inspiring collection of rock sculptures by Austrian sculptor, Andreas Buisman, will be displayed in the garden and available for sale. Melssen Garden: 18-19 November, 5 Breden Place, Queanbeyan This compact garden was started in 2007. The gardener has worked since then to turn a bare area into a beautiful cottage style garden dominated by bush, climbing, pillar, standard and groundcover roses. Located on a sloping site, the garden has been designed so that one person, with chronic pain, can maintain the small site to its maximum potential. There are sustainability features, including 16,200 litres water tanks and pumps for the gardens and consistent use of mulch for all beds. ‘Mr Compost Man’ to give a talk at 10.30 a.m. each day. Persephone: 25-26 November, 17 Julius Street, Pearce This mid-sized semi-formal garden features exotic trees, shrubs and perennials. Hedging and mass plantings create different spaces to relax and observe the bird life. The private backyard provides a tranquil environment for entertaining, a network of paths and a small lawn for adventure and play, and an integrated productive garden featuring chickens, a greenhouse and a variety of fruit and vegetables. Details are from the Open Gardens Canberra website. Photographs and garden notes are on their website: see http://opengardenscanberra.org.au/events/ 2017 Bowral Tulip Time Festival 12-24 September 2017 Floriade 16 Sept - 15 Oct 2017 Tulip Top Gardens 16 Sept – 15 Oct 2017 Robertson Open Gardens 7 and 8 October 2017 Berry Gardens Festival 12-15 October (8 gardens) Riverina Iris Farm 14 Oct - 5 Nov 2017 Mayfield Garden Oberon 14-29 October 2017 ` Dates for Special Festivals ` otherwise open all year Horticultural Society Shows Iris/Rhododendron Show 28 and 29 October 2017 Spring Rose Show 11 and 12 November 2017 Crookwell Garden Festival 11 and 12 November 2017 Bundanoon Garden Ramble 21 and 22 October 2017 Bathurst Open Gardens 28 and 29 October 2017 Burra Open Gardens 28 and 29 October 2017 Tumbarumba Festival 28 and 29 October 2017 Millthorpe Garden Ramble 4 and 5 November 2017 2018 Ballarat Begonia Festival 10 - 12 March 2018 Mayfield Garden Oberon 13-28 January 2018

14-29 April 2018 Dates for Special Festivals otherwise open all year Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show 21 - 25 March 2018 Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers 21 - 30 September 2018 Horticultural Society Shows (provisional dates) Autumn Flower Show 3 and 4 March 2018 Spring Bulb and Camellia Show 15 & 16 Sept 2018 Iris, Rhododendron & Azalea Show 27 & 28 Oct Spring Rose Show 10 & 11 Nov 2018

PLANT PROFILE – FUCHSIA Obtained from the ABC Gardening Australia Website

The fuchsia genus belongs to the evening primrose (Onagraceae) family and comprises around 100 species of shrubs and small to medium-sized trees. They can be evergreen or deciduous, spreading or climbing, and all come from Central and South America, except for a few that are native to New Zealand and Tahiti. With their stunning flowers and lush foliage, fuchsias offer tremendous ornamental qualities, and are ideal for hedges, containers, and hanging baskets, or trained on espaliers. Many thousands of hybrids and cultivars have been raised. In their native habitat, the American species are pollinated by hummingbirds.

Mostly climbing or spreading shrubs, fuchsias have deep green, heavily veined leaves that grow in whorls on the stems. The pendulous flowers have long tubes with flared sepals and often contrastingly coloured petals, mostly in shades of red, white, pink, and purple, as well as bicolored. The garden hybrids usually have rounded flowers with a skirt of large sepals around an often double corolla. Fleshy berries, usually with many seeds, follow the flowers.

Hardiness varies; the tougher types become deciduous if exposed to frost, the more tender simply die. Plant in a sheltered position in part-shade or shade with moist, humus-rich, fertile, well-drained soil. Feed well and remove spent flowers to prolong the flowering season. Propagate the species from seeds and cuttings. Cultivars are propagated from softwood cuttings in spring or half-hardened cuttings in late summer.

THE IMPORTANCE OF SPECIALIST GROWER GROUPS Diana O’Brien

The opportunity to purchase on-line from a specialist nursery or from a yearly sale held by a particular plant group is a blessing for collectors who find it difficult to travel around general nurseries in the hope they might find something of interest Geraniaceae (Geraniums (Cranesbills); Zonal Pelargoniums; Ivy- leaved Pelargoniums and Scented -leaved species pelargoniums, offer the gardener many

fine perennials that should be in every garden. While Geraniaceae are succulents and can cope with drier ground and sunny sites, Fuchsias were selected by the Canberra Geranium and Fuchsia Society as an accompanying perennial for a comparatively shady landscape. For the first ten years of its existence an average of 23 members met in each other’s gardens on the first Saturday afternoon of each month – exchanging growing hints; borrowing books from a small library table and buying plants or cuttings from fellow members in order to expand personal collections. After a highly successful two day Spring Show in November 1980. An enlarged membership required the use of a hired hall for future meetings and annual shows. This year’s plant sale will be held from 2-4p.m on Saturday 7th October at St. James Uniting Church. Curtin. Admission $2.00, Members free. Over the years pastel- flowered Geraniums (Cranesbills), some of which carry strikingly five singled- petalled blue blooms (e.g. pic. Geranium magnificum) have become feature plants of widely contrasting form and texture to iris and salvia, forget-me-nots, clematis, daisies and grey foliaged plants in frost hardy perennial borders. G. wallichianum, a species with mauve, purple or pink cupped flowers was introduced to Britain from Nepal about 1819. Cultivated varieties include ‘Buxton’s Blue’ (sky blue with a white centre) and the hybrid Rozanne, named flower of the century by the RHS at Chelsea in 2015. ‘Wargrave Pink’ a long flowering sport of the raspberry red flowered G. endressii found in a UK garden in 1928, is an almost evergreen plant to 45cm. Its fresh green foliage turns to pale gold and reddish shades in autumn. It grows and flowers in full sun as well as partial shade and all kinds of soil - provides it is freely drained. Small growers like Geranium dalmaticum; G. sanguineum and G. cinereum are well suited to rockeries, border edgings while the taller growing species make great interplantings with roses. Cranesbills can be grown from seed, horizontal rhizomes or, with care, by division of the root stock. Zonal pelargoniums typically recognized as multi-petalled red blooms in terracotta pots and arguably one of the best known summer flowering ornamentals that decorate doorsteps and window boxes all over the world, are best propagated by stem cuttings in early spring. Promote flowering of Zonals by using a high in potassium fertiliser (K) rather than the high nitrogen (N) preferred by a group known as scented -leaf pelargoniums – the basis of much of the worlds soap and perfume industry.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GERANIUM AND A PELARGONIUM

This is a general description of how the differences came about between the two plant names of Geranium and Pelargonium and copied from the S.A. Geranium & Pelargonium Society Inc. website. The plant commonly called a ‘Geranium’ is actually a Pelargonium. When these plants were first brought to Europe from South Africa it was thought that they were the same as the European Geranium. It was later found that, though they do share many similarities, they differ in several ways. The “new” plants were re-classified as Pelargoniums, with both the Geranium and the Pelargonium classified as genera of the Geraniaceae Family. The original (incorrect) classification persists. Nurseries tend to label these plants as Geraniums because that is what most people recognise them as. True Geraniums are knows as Cranesbills, which refers to the shape of the seed pod. Geraniums have:

• five petals that are the same size and shape as each other; • ten fertile stamens; • seed pods with “curls” that act like a catapult to hurl the ripened seeds away

from the parent plant; • many thin stems attached to fibrous root and • need a cool climate to do well.

A true geranium flower

Pelargoniums were so named because the seedpods resemble the beak of a stork (Pelar means stork). Pelargoniums have:

• Five petals, of which the upper two differ in shape and size from the lower three (more noticeable on the species or “original”);

• ten stamens, but not all are fertile; • seed pods have a feathered end that enables them to float on the breeze to

find a place to grow; • succulent, thick stems that hold moisture to enable them to withstand

drought.

A true pelargonium flower

IVY-LEAVED PELARGONIUMS Rex Daley 29.9.2017

I have a passion for growing Pelargoniums going back over 49 years, since the first purchase of a few plants from the late Ruby Holborow. At that time her Geranium Nursery was at the Pinnacle, Mount Canoblas near Orange. My first love of the genus is the Ivy-leaved Pelargonium, which I believe to be, one of the most versatile and most underrated of all the Geraniaceae family’. There are three very important tasks needed if we are to successfully grow the plant of our choice.

1. PH of the soil, which to me is the engine room of the plant growth should be 6.0 to 6.5 for pelargoniums.

2. The fuel (or fertilizer) that is needed to keep the plant growing successfully (by that I mean the right fertiliser at the right time).

3. Presentation of the flowering plant is very important if one is to ultimately gain maximum pleasure from the plants’ growth and flowering

Most of you are aware of points one and two; however it is the third point that of Presentation of your plants that I wish to elaborate on. The Ivy-leaved pelargonium gives us an enormous range of growing patterns in the garden, and I would like to share with you some of the ways in which my wife Nancye & I have used to show this lovely plant off and which have for many years given us untold pleasure from the abundance of flowers produced throughout the growing season. At this point perhaps I should say what I mean by “Growing Season’. To me growing season is when you have evidence that the sap has started to run strongly again following a dormant period of growth. This is a signal to determine what food, energy (fertiliser) is needed to continue this growth pattern to ultimate flowering. In the cold winters of Canberra in the very late winter the plants will show you the season change well before it is evident to you by little growth buds that appear in the leaf axle of the plant stem. Naturally in cold regions those new growth tips need protection from frosts. I hope this clarifies the question.

There are many different ways to successfully grow Ivy-leaved pelargoniums. Hanging basket, window box, urn, trough, on a trellis, over a garden wall or fence and garden bed as ground cover are but some of the ways to grow this lovely plant. However we have for some years preferred to grow the Ivy-leaved plant on a few different shaped wire frames which we have made to provide a better way of presenting the plant in full flower. There are fewer problems in growing the Ivy-leaved plant unlike zonals which can get rust and other leaf and stem disease. Good drainage is one important thing to consider with growing the Ivy-leaved plant. With spring now with us it is a good time to try your hand at growing this wonderful plant.

NEUTROG FERTILISERS This article is reprinted from the Spring/Summer 2017 issue of the Geranium & Pelargonium Society of Western Australia (Inc.) where Brian Klepzig was the guest speaker for their June 19 meeting. He has provided this information. Neutrog Fertilisers produce quality organic and organic based products. They provide the full range of plant nutrients in a slow release form, whilst the carefully selected water-soluble nutrients have been added to maximise the performance of each application. The balance and ration of nutrients combined with the very best of raw materials are the secret to the success of all Neutrog products. The organic raw materials are conditioned utilising a unique composting process and once completed, the water-soluble nutrients are carefully blended into the organic base before being pasteurised and pelleted. Neutrog recommends year round feeding, so we would recommend the following program. Flowering Plants When planting – Seamungus. Apply 50g per plant to the base of hole and cover with 1-5cm of soil. Spring, Summer and Autumn – Sudden Impact for Roses. Apply 100g per plant every 8 weeks. Winter – Seamungus. Apply 100g per square metre every 6-8 weeks. Potted Flowering Plants When potting – Seamungus. Apply 50g per 200mm pot, with relative increase/decrease dependent on pot size. Spring, Summer and Autumn – Strike back for Orchids. Apply 20g per 200mm pot once a month Winter – Seamungus. Apply 5-g per 200mm pot every 6 weeks. Plant Tonic

Gogo Juice should be applied every 4 weeks. This will complement the fertilising program in maximising the nutrients available to your plants.

TIMELY FUCHSIA TIPS FOR SPRING

Maria Geppert • Give plants plenty of light and turn them regularly to balance growth. • Keep plants damp but not wet. Watch out for heavy spring rain, and get

container plants under cover to avoid wet roots and drowning. • Keep soil surface clean. • Watch for disease or insects and treat as soon as you have a diagnosis to

prevent spread and improve the chance of pulling the plant through. Aphids especially like soft, new spring growth.

• Fuchsias are heavy feeders once growth begins. Establish your fertilizer plan and schedule and be vigilant in maintaining your plants with it.

• Experiment with misting the woody parts of mature plants to soften the surface to help new growth break out more easily in spring. Hot water will cool quickly in the air, and won't harm the plant.

• Pinch plants to encourage fullness and pleasing shape, as well as encouraging blooms.

• Once spring growth starts, prune in-ground fuchsias back to 6 inches or less above the ground. Fuchsias bloom on new growth and you will have leggy fuchsias with blooms out on the ends if you don't grit your teeth and cut them back. If you like the look though.....

Excerpt from “NW Fuchsia Facts” the newsletter of the Oregon Fuchsia Society, April 2016 issue

FUCHSIA CARE – DECEMBER – MARCH Irene Brewer

DECEMBER: Enjoy seeing your plants grow and flower. Feed them with half-strength fertiliser weekly and watch for whitefly and thrips and spray regularly with a pyrethrum based spray, several times a week if necessary, to control the infestation and break the egg cycle. It is important to protect the plants from hot winds and afternoon sun. Move baskets and pots into shade on very hot days. Water either very early in the morning or late evening. Never water in the middle of the day when the plants are wilting. They will revive in the evening and then will benefit from watering. JANUARY: Lightly prune plants after they have finished flowering to encourage new growth. Remove dead flowers and clean up any fallen leaves from the top of the basket or pot. Replace any lost soil and add slow release fertiliser (Osmocote or Nutricote). Fertilise plants with a fertiliser high in potassium to promote flowering. Lightly prune and fertilise fuchsias in the garden beds. Mulch garden beds to prevent them

from drying out, but keep the mulch away from the stem of the plants. Ensure plants in the shade house or glasshouse have plenty of ventilation and treat rust promptly with a fungicide as soon as it is visible. Red spider mite will be kept at bay if the foliage of plants is misted regularly. FEBRUARY: Plants which have been lightly pruned will be producing new growth and flowers. Other varieties which continually flower will be producing more growth. Continue to check for aphids, whitefly and red spider mite. Rust can occur if the weather is humid. Spray the plant and soil with a fungicide such as Zineb*, Mancozeb* or Baycor* to control rot. Remove any infected leaves. MARCH: Continue with half strength fertilizer for your pots and baskets to encourage the final flush of flowers for the end of March. March is also the ideal time to take cuttings as the weather should be cooling down. The cuttings will be well established before winter and can be potted up to the next size pot to overwinter the plant. Make sure the pot is not too big for the plant as too much excess soil around the plant will carry too much moisture during the cold winter months and the roots could freeze and the plant will die.

PELARGONIUM CARE Joan Powell

August through September is when Pelargoniums put on their best growth and the ideal time to prepare them for the coming growing season. Check the shape of your plants, if they need to be cut back and there is sufficient growth; you may still be able to take cuttings to grow on for sale at the November Show. At the same time check for any sign of disease or pests and spray if necessary. Many plants will need potting on, those that don’t will benefit from a top dressing. Carefully remove a few centimetres of soil from the top of the pot, taking care not to damage any surface roots and top dress with new soil. For the top dressing I add blood and bone, a little dolomite and some crushed shell grit to my regular potting mix and then water it in with a weak solution of seasol and some molasses. In early September commence feeding with a good balanced fertilizer. I use Debco All Purpose Plant Food at ½ strength fortnightly until the end of September and then full strength through to flowering. You should always water plants before adding fertilizers to reduce the risk of burning the roots. Late August or early September is a good time to give your Regal and Angel Pelargoniums a top dressing of Sulphate of Potash to improve flower colour. Apply at the rate of ¼ teaspoon for 125ml pots, ½ teaspoon for 150ml pots and about a teaspoon for 200-220ml pots. Angels make a lovely display when mixed with other plants in a large pot or hanging basket. Team them up with some trailing petunias, lobelia, fuchsias or some cranesbill geraniums. In early October inspect your plants again to see if they have a nicely balanced shape. If not, a further light prune may be necessary. Don’t forget to also inspect your hanging baskets and pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and to ensure a well-shaped bushy plant. However if you want to have flowering plants for

display or sale at our November show don’t pinch out the growing tips after mid-August. Spring is also the best time to take cuttings of fancy leaved varieties but wait until the possibility of frosts are over. Repot if necessary and then move to a warm protected position. Fancy leaved varieties do not like to have wet feet so I always add extra sand to my growing medium to provide extra drainage. They will also benefit from a light dressing of blood and bone watered in with a weak solution of Seasol and molasses. Check again for any insect attack particularly white fly, aphids, mites and caterpillars. If these pests are not brought under control at the start of the growing season it will be almost impossible to eradicate them. There are several good products available for controlling these pests. When using any chemicals ensure that you read the label and carefully follow all safety directions. Make sure you remove dead leaves and old flower heads from potted plants and give them a quarter turn weekly. To grow a well-shaped compact plant they need to have good light conditions and be spaced well apart to provide good air circulation. Keep checking for signs of mildew, black rot or rust, if necessary spray with a fungicide such as Zineb or Mancozeb. Yates Zaleton is a relatively new dual action systemic fungicide and although it is a little expensive [around $26.00 at Bunning’s] it is excellent for rust. I recently sprayed some of my Zonals with rust with excellent results. Clean used pots, growing benches and sterilize cutting implements. Good hygiene will help prevent disease spreading. As the growing season progresses a careful watering program is essential, water early in the day and avoid wetting the foliage. The size of containers, type of potting mix and position of your plants should determine how much water is needed. I find that most potting mediums on the market benefit from the addition of perlite and/or coarse river sand to aid drainage [fine river sand remains wet for too long and should not be used]. With the onset of the hot weather good air circulation for potted plants becomes essential. Keep them healthy by removing dead flower heads and dead or diseased leaves. Remove any dieback or rot by cutting back to healthy tissue and seal the cut with a dusting of sulphur or methylated spirits. A couple of teaspoons of sulphur powder mixed to the consistency of toothpaste with a little methylated spirits and water can be stored in a small jar and painted onto the newly cut ends with a small brush as needed. Watch for signs of rust which is prevalent during wet, hot and humid weather. Remember this disease can spread through your whole collection very quickly. Place any infected leaves in a plastic bag and close securely before disposal. Spray infected plants and the top of the soil with either Zineb* or Baycor fungicide. Avoid wetting the foliage during watering. Potted plants will need some protection from the hot sun and may need to be moved or protected with some form of temporary shade. You can insulate small pots by

standing them in larger containers. Larger pots can be insulated by lining them with a thick layer of newspaper. Although it will be necessary to increase watering during very hot weather be careful not to overwater them. I find that bottom watering is the best method to use at this time of the year as the roots don’t have to push their way to the surface of the pot for moisture. I place my plants on tray of pebbles, but any similar capillary method would do. Never water in the middle of the day during hot weather and remember to ensure that there is adequate air circulation between your plants. Check for pests, particularly the caterpillars of moths and butterflies. If it is necessary to spray make sure you do so during the cooler part of the day to protect the leaves and flowers from sun damage. Continue feeding plants with a high strength potash fertiliser, at half strength, during late spring and throughout summer. Late February through March is the perfect time to take cuttings. Start with the regals and angels and as the weather cools in March progress to the zonals and then the ivies. Remember when taking cuttings your primary goal should be to ensure that the plant being pruned will retain a good shape for the next spring. Once your cuttings have developed roots, start pinching out the growing tips so that they develop into nice dense compact plant.

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