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Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations Rivers & Lakes 2015 The Belle of Louisville Turns 101

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Byways Rivers & Lakes issue features the Hudson River Valley, and we discover the the delights of Dutchess County. In Milwaukee, we learn that Milwaukee’s waterfront has evolved into a stellar cultural and recreational mecca. In Minnesota, we experience its remarkable waterways. From the land of nearly 12,000 thousand lakes, to the birthplace of the great Mississippi River. Byways cover story takes us to the Ohio River, where the country’s oldest steamboat, the Belle of Louisville, has just turned 101. Downriver, Owensboro, KY has a new waterfront, and a lot more going on.

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Rivers & Lakes 2015

The Belle of Louisville Turns 101

Page 3: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

Byways • 3

Instant ConnectDirect one-click digital links to our Advertisers

Byways Magazine©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be dupli-

cated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.For more than 32 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and

byways of North America. Some of the most well-known — and least known — destinations to dis-cover in the United States and Canada.

Byways is published in two versions, a Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers,Android, iPhone and iPad. And a Apple Newsstand/App Store edition. All advertising, editorialand video is included in both versions of the publication.

For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine

502-785-4875http://bywaysmagazine.com

Page 4: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

By Steve Kirchner, Editor & PublisherPREVIEW

4 • Byways

For more than 32 years, Bywayshas been covering the leading des-tinations along the highways and

byways of North America, highlightingsome of the most well-known -- andleast known --destinations to discoverin the United States and Canada.

Byways annual Rivers & Lakes issue features theHudson River Valley, where veteran travel writer JimLegget takes us on a whiskey tasting tour, flies in an openbiplane cockpit at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, and dis-covers the the delights of Dutchess County.

Travel writer Pat Woods invites us to come toMilwaukee, to see what’s changed. We learn thatMilwaukee’s waterfront hasevolved into a stellar culturaland recreational mecca. With adifferent ethnic festival everyweekend from May throughSeptember, Milwaukee hasearned the “City of Festivals.”

In Minnesota, we experienceits remarkable waterways.From the land of nearly 12,000lakes and the birthplace of thegreat Mississippi River,Minnesota’s appeal as a desti-nation lies both in its abundantnatural scenery and in itsvibrant cities.

Byways cover story takes usto the Ohio River, where thecountry’s oldest steamboat, theBelle of Louisville, has justturned 101. On April 30, 1963,Belle of Louisville made herfirst cruise in a race against the steamboat Delta Queen.That race was the beginning of an unparalleled river tra-dition, the Great Steamboat Race.

Traveling two hours south on the Ohio, we discoverOwensboro, Kentucky, the Big O along the MightyOhio. Owensboro is Kentucky’s fourth largest city and ithas been creating its own renaissance in recent years.

In the midst of the Great Recession, this Ohio Rivertown invested over $120 million in its waterfront, andthe private sector soon matched it.

In Southwest Louisiana, Byways takes us on a journeyalong the Creole Nature Trail All-American Road. Theenvironment through prairie lands, wetlands, marshes

and Gulf of Mexico beaches invites you to linger longer,breathe deeper and enjoy untamed wildlife. In fact,Louisiana has more surface water available (84%) thanany other state.

Also in this issue, veteran travel writer Bill Graves hasus Traveling the Highways and Byways. Bill takes us toWisconsin’s Elkhart Lake, where he learns thatWisconsin has more lakes than his native Minnesota.What a letdown!

In What’s Happening, we cruise into the sunset on theNiagara Belle. Board from either the American orCanadian side of the Niagara River, and enjoy thescenery with dinner, lunch and wine tasting options on-board.

Utah’s Dinosaurland is celebrating the 100thAnniversary ofDinosaur NationalMonument. Here,you can explore thereal Jurassic World.The area is home toone of the most pro-ductive JurassicPeriod dinosaur quar-ries in the world.Bucket-list destina-tions include the Wallof Bones and its1,500 exposeddinosaur bones andthe Dinosaur Garden.

The final stop isJefferson’s PoplarForest in Virginia.You’ve heard ofMonticello. But did

you know Thomas Jefferson designed and lived in a sec-ond home?

One of only two homes Jefferson designed for his per-sonal use, the Poplar Forest retreat was the place whereJefferson “came to indulge in the life of the mind andrenew his personal creativity.”

A visit to Poplar Forest offers a unique opportunity toexperience Jefferson’s everyday life.

Enjoy the expanded video offerings in this issue ofByways. Please CLICK ON VIDEO links for all edito-rial features, advertising and What’s Happening sectionto enjoy the additional video clips that bring Bywaysarticles to life.

The Great Steamboat Race

Page 7: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

Byways • 7

FeaturesRivers & Lakes 2015 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8John Henry New York Whiskey, Ghosts of Old Rinebeck Aerodrome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Milwaukee Revisited: Come See What’s Changed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14The Mighty Mississippi: Experience Minnesota’s Remarkable Waterways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22The Steamboat Belle of Louisville Turns 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Owensboro, KY, The Big O Along the Mighty Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Outdoor Adventures Await on Southwest Louisiana’s Waterways. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

DepartmentsByways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Traveling the Highways & Byways, with Bill Graves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

What’s HappeningCruise into the Sunset on the Niagara Belle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Utah’s Dinosaurland Celebrates 100th Anniversary of Dinosaur National Monument . . . . . . . . 46Jefferson’s Poplar Forest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Coming in future issues of Byways ..... Great American Roads, The Leading NorthAmerican Tour Destinations, Great American Railroads, Mountains & Valleys, and much more!

Next Up: GreatAmerican Roads.Right. The NationalRoad InterpretiveCenter in Vandalia, ILprovides information,displays, photos andmore detailing thehistory of theNational Road.

Volume 32, Issue No. 4 2015

On the cover. The Belle of Louisville on the Ohio River. The steamboat-turned 101 this year. To learn more, turn to page 30. For more on BywaysRivers and Lakes, turn to page 8. Cover photo courtesy gotolouisville.comand Belle of Louisville.

Page 8: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

8 • Byways

Rivers & Lakes 2015

Matthew King’s 1940’s Tiger Moth from Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, flies overthe Hudson River’s Kingston-Rhinecliffe Bridge. Photo courtesy ©Jim Leggett.

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As a staff photographer on the Hudson Register-Star old timers told tales of Hudson’s flamboyantpast; enterprising madams ran upscale brothels,

making this “the most notorious red light district inAmerica.” Both the town and citizenry prospered.(1920s -1950s)

Volstead’s meddling do-gooders inflicted Prohibitionon America (1920-1933) so gangster Jack “Legs”Diamond, kicked out of New York City, in gleefulrevenge moved near Hudson where he ran Hooch andcontraband booze flowed like Niagara Falls.

Framed by the sleepy backdrop of the Catskill

Mountains, Hudson’s environs gave inspiration torenowned artists Frederick Edwin Church (1826-1900).Fellow painters were known as The Hudson RiverSchool of Artists. Gripping tales of Rip Van Winkle,Sleepy Hollow, Ichabod Crane and more were set amongsuch pastoral beauty

A few miles north of Hudson on Country Road 66 liesValatie, once a thriving mill town, still a quaint hamlet.Harry Houdini filmed daring water escapes belowKinderhook Creek Falls, marked by an Historic Siteplaque a stone throw from Main Street Cafe (Diner onthe green canopy). Hands down the best place to eat in

10 • Byways

John Henry New York WhiskeyGhosts Of Old Rhinebeck Aerodome

By Jim Leggett

Owner Derek Grout pours another at HarvestSpirits Distillery. Photo courtesy ©Jim Leggett.

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this area, taking the best NYC Greek diner to a rural vil-lage setting.   Always good food, huge portions, largemenu, and very, very affordable prices.

As a regular correspondent for Whiskey Magazine Iwas heading for nearby Harvest Spirits Distillery whereowner Derek Grout was rumored to produce notablegins, brandies and whiskey adjacent one of ColumbiaCounty’s bespoke apple orchards.

As a footloose youth, I’d picked apples by the bushelin this very orchard. In a welcome back salute Dereksiphoned a generous dram straight from a stack ofhumorously emblazoned oak barrels, one which lisped“ShCoth Whishkey”. Wait till I next see SeanConnery…(yes, I do know himself!)

From an old fashioned apple press the Grout familymakes superb hard or sweet ciders. Hankering for some-thing new Derek tried his hand distilling liquor. “I beganmaking our traditional applejack 4 years ago, during anabnormally cold winter. As the cider fermented I froze itin two stages; outdoors in 50 gallon barrels, and thentransferred to 5 gallon pails moved to a walk-in freezer”.

Stored in fifteen gallon American Oak quarter casksfor 2 to 3 years, the distillation was christened OldScrumpy, a name often given to traditional ciders mademainly in the South and West of England, already knownin pre-Roman times.

“Since the liquids had adequate time to mingle withthe air (oxygen) malic acid is converted to lactic acid,resulting in a sharp acidity which mellows to a soft,almost milky taste”., They also make genuine old-world

applejack, not to be confused with modern distillationsfrom two-years-old apples, such as apple brandy.

“The closest you get to traditional applejack today isice cider, sweeter, less alcoholic. I wanted to rediscoverhow Colonial era applejack really tasted.

Byways • 11

Aerodrome vintage airplaneflies over the Hudson Valley

and Hudson River. Photoscourtesy ©Jim Leggett.

Page 12: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

Our first run proved very tasty. I used it to conditionbarrels for carefully aging Cornelius Applejack, sonamed to honor the man who pressed apple cider here forover 30 years 40% ALC/VOL. Distilled from 100%Hudson Valley apples Cornelius delivers a subtle sweet-ness, hints of peach with a spiced oak maple wood fin-ish.” Nice.

On the prowl, I spotted an intriguing bottle marked infelt tip pen JOHN HENRY 2-ROW SINGLE MALT.“Ahem…” coughed Derek “That’s not for sale yet…notaged properly!”

Thankfully, it is now!Derek pours me a wee dram.

For a young whiskey this amazing dram thrills thetaste buds, warms the chest going down, and, soon, nul-lifies all daily woes. Taste; pronounced aromatic aroma,hint of apple, smoky finish with noticeable smoothness.What will this wonder taste like when it grows up?

Aged in ex-bourbon hogsheads, it tastes fruity, maltyand well balanced. None of the overwrought oak youfind in single malt aged in new charred American oakbarrels.

“Our long tenured Jamaican worker John Henry (notso) subtly hinted he would like one of our productsnamed after himself. He’d developed a connoisseurappreciation for our Applejack, Core Gin and PeachBrandy,” It will be a recurring story explaining why thiswhiskey is named after this John Henry…not a lyricalnamesake from a Johnny Cash song.

Incredibly this whiskey was the product of twoserendipitous errors; a brewery’s mistake in over smok-ing their malt, and a distiller making a premature tailscut. “Since we didn’t have the equipment and expertise

to brew our own, we had a commercial brewer make thewort for our whiskey,” Derek explains. “Of ten or so dif-ferent mash bills made for us, one was very different --super peaty beer made with apple wood smoked maltedbarley, aged one year in 50 gallon hogsheads. Thinkingit too smoky to serve in their pub, the brewery was goingto throw it away.”

Then Derek made a second distillation of the smokybeer, made his tails cut. “I left for the day. Next morningwe realized the carboy of ‘smoky tails’ was exactly whatwe were longing for -- we’d discovered the genesis forJohn Henry 2 Row Single Malt Whiskey.

“John Henry Single Malt Whiskey continues toimpress and gain accolades. As soon as we released itthis past February, our whiskey won a Silver Medal forbest 2 year old malt whiskey in the Judging of AmericanCraft Spirits in Bardstown, KY. John Henry is available

12 • Byways

Historic Village Diner. Photocourtesy ©Jim Leggett

$75 takes you on an open cockpit biplane flight over the historic Hudson

River in a 1929 D-25 Standard. Photo courtesy ©Jim Leggett.

Page 13: Byways Rivers & Lakes 2015

in 3 sizes, including 50 ml ‘airplane’bottles.”

Easy to find in liquor stores acrossNew York, if you’re out of state youcan order online.www.harvestspirits.com/shop_online.html

Duchess County,Ghosts Of TheRed Baron

A mere forty minutes south ofValatie lies Old RhinebeckAerodrome, a living museum of pio-neer and World War 1 aviation wherelegendary names, Fokker, Sopwith,Nieuport, SPAD, Jenney and othersFLY again -- every summer weekendJune through October.

As ORA’s photographer I spentweekends aloft in vintage biplanes,shooting mock dog-fights from a two-seater 1914 AVRO 504-K made ofcedar wood, its wings covered in Irish

linen. Powered by a vintage rotary motor, like mostWW1 machines it had no throttle, no brakes and only asturdy wooden tail skid to bring it to a tail-dragging stop!

Once I co-piloted ORA’s 1946 Fleet Finch biplanefrom New Jersey following the Hudson River at 1,500feet with pilot Cole Palen, AKA The Black Baron, grab-bing a nap in the front cockpit. Setting sun over mistshrouded Catskills, hypnotic throaty drone of the Kinnerengine, silk scarf billowing in the slipstream, whatabsolute bliss.

For a paltry $75 you take an open cockpit biplaneflight over historic Hudson River in a 1929 D-25Standard. Nothing beats open-cockpit flying. Now

here’s an adventure you willcherish all your days!Historic Village Diner

In absolute harmony withold world aerodrome fun,Red Hook’s old railroad style“Historic” Village Diner  issignificant as a distinctiveexample of early-twentiethcentury American roadsidearchitecture.

Exceptionally intact fromits date of manufacture in the1920s, it embodies distin-guishing characteristics ofthe type and period in itsstreamlined metal railroaddining car inspired design.

Red Hook’s diner is addi-tionally significant as a rep-resentative example of a SilkCity Diner, a highly popularprefabricated dining car linemanufactured by the

Paterson Vehicle Company ofPaterson, New Jersey from the1920s to the 1950s. Moved severaltimes to adapt to changing travelpatterns, the history of the dineralso recalls the growth and devel-opment of the regional transporta-tion system during the earlyautomobile age.

After years of catering to travel-ers on Dutchess County's majorhighways, the Village Diner  nowenjoys continued popularity as acommunity-oriented restaurant andthe focal point of much local nos-talgia.

We made repeated stops, happyto endure short waits during crowd-ed Sunday mornings; corn beef

hash and eggs over medium, rye toast and crispy bacon,absolutely yummy. (7550 North Broadway, Red HookNY)

Byways • 13

About the Author.Photojournalist Jim Leggett, a for-mer resident of Hudson NY, is atravel writer based in NorthCarolina and Nassau, Bahamas.

His passions include steamships,motorcycles, open cockpit flying,and whiskey, in moderation. He isalso a veteran pipe band drummer.

Red Hook’s Village Diner.Photo courtesy ©Jim Leggett.

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Milwaukee’s beautiful lakeshore and skyline. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

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Milwaukee Revisited:Come See What's Changed!

By Pat Woods

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If your last Milwaukee visit was several years ago,consider revisiting Wisconsin’s largest city -- or addit to your bucket list if you’ve not been there.

With summer temperatures averaging 77 degrees,Milwaukee is a delightful summer destination. Locatedat the junction where three rivers flow into LakeMichigan, Milwaukee is a study in blue water and greenfoliage.

Milwaukee’s lakefront has morphed into a stellar cul-ture and recreation mecca. Visitors can walk, jog or bikeon a broad scenic paved trail than runs along thelakeshore for miles.

The 3-mile RiverWalk flanking north and south sidesof the Milwaukee River connects downtown hotels todozens of traditional and trendy eateries, brewpubs,parks, historic sites, retail outlets, boutiques, boat toursand other attractions.

During my September visit, I walked from the Hyatt

Regency Hotel to the Shops at Grand Avenue, WisconsinCheese Mart, the Spice House, Usinger’s Sausage,Milwaukee Boat Tours, plus several restaurants. Alongthe way, I passed attractive small parks and public artdisplays.

The six square blocks of the Historic Third Ward con-tain an eclectic mix of art galleries, theaters, restaurants,bars, antique shops and specialty stores typically foundin much larger cities. A Visit Milwaukee spokespersonsaid Milwaukee’s revitalized warehouse and manufac-turing district compares to New York’s trendy SoHo dis-trict.

Delightful year-round sights and aromas in the indoorMilwaukee Public Market put a fresh spin on the ThirdWard’s grocery marketing tradition. Focusing onWisconsin products, this attractive market purveys freshbakery and produce, freshly-ground coffee, home-madecandies, artisan cheeses, decadent sausages, sushi,

16 • Byways

Milwaukee Art Museum features a 90-foot high entrance hall enclosed by a wing-like sunscreen that opens and closes three times daily. Photo by Pat Woods.

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$14.99 lobster dinners, plus a wine bar and a demonstra-tion kitchen where Milwaukee’s top chefs share theirtrade secrets.

Deserted warehouses lining the river were convertedto classy waterfront condos, some with boat docks.Throughout the city former breweries were repurposedinto boutique hotels, fitness centers and eateries.Prime attractions

Milwaukee’s beautiful lakefront is accented by thecontemporary Milwaukee Art Museum featuring a stun-ning 90-foot high glass-walled entrance hall enclosed bya “wing-like” sunscreen that opens and closes threetimes daily. Forty galleries on four floors hold the muse-um's’30,000 works.

Nearby Discovery World, a gem for all ages, focuseson technology, automation, energy uses, fresh and salt-water aquariums, plus a multimedia virtual reality the-ater. Music lovers enjoy the Les Paul exhibition ofguitars and artifacts. See www.discoveryworld.com.

From mid-May through September, the S/V DenisSullivan docks next to Discovery World. The recreationof a 19th-century Great Lakes schooner does 2-hourLake Michigan day sails.

Grohmann Museum at the Milwaukee School ofEngineering displays 850 European and American paint-ings and sculptures documenting the evolution of organ-ized work in agriculture, construction, manufacturing,retail, medical and dentistry from 1580 to the present.Don’t miss the revolving rooftop sculptures! Seewww.msoe.edu/museum

Antique and fine arts lovers will enjoy touring the

1892 Pabst Mansion, the private family home of CaptainFrederick Pabst, famous beer baron, sea captain, philan-thropist and arts patron. www.pabstmansion.com

If you ever rode a motorcycle-or wanted to-don’t missthe Harley-Davidson Museum’s displays of legendarymilitary, industrial, law enforcement and racing bikes.The Women at the Handlebars display features bikes,leather jackets and stories about lady motorcycle pio-neers. See www.h-dmuseum.com.

Perched on a Lake Park bluff overlooking LakeMichigan, the 1912-era North Point Lighthouse holds atreasure trove of maritime artifacts. Explore the keeper’s

Byways • 17

Red lighthouse on the Lake Michiganbreakwater is viewed on Milwaukee Boat

Line tour. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

One of many sights on a Milwaukee boatcruise. Photo by Pat Woods.

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quarters, climb to the top for a bird’s eye view of the lakeand learn about the brave keepers who watched over thesometimes treacherous shoreline. Open weekends. Seewww.northpointlighthouse.org.

Milwaukee boasts a lively performing arts scene withprofessional symphony, ballet and opera. Talented the-ater groups perform at numerous venues throughout thecity and suburbs. Terrific tours

Milwaukee Food & City Tours enables visitors andlocals to discover the sights and flavors of theMilwaukee area’s most delicious and historic neighbor-hoods on themed walking or bus tours. Examples:Christmas bakery tour, Churches & Chocolates, Ghouls& Spirits.

My Old World Third Street walking tour visitedUsinger’s Famous Sausage and the Spice House. Wesampled cheese and beer at Wisconsin Cheese Mart, hada tasty German lunch at Mader’s Restaurant followed bydessert and coffee at Turner Hall Restaurant. Seewww.MilwaukeeFoodTours.com or call 800-979-3370.

While breweries made Milwaukee famous, some pre-

fer spirits. Great Lakes Distillery is Wisconsin’s firstcraft distillery since prohibition to hand-produce finespirits in small batches. For tours and tasting times, seewww.greatlakesdistillery.com or call 414-431-8683.

18 • Byways

Perched on a bluff in Milwaukee’s Lake Park area, North PointLighthouse overlooks Lake Michigan. Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

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Milwaukee on the water Using two large vessels, Milwaukee Boat Line

offers several excellent narrated sightseeing tours onthe Milwaukee River, breakwater, lighthouse andLake Michigan harbor.

The narrator covers Milwaukee history, architec-ture, and how former abandoned warehouses liningthe river have morphed into trendy waterfront condos.See www.MkeBOAT or call 414-294-9450.

Adults can take the nation’s only brewery tour byboat aboard the Brew City Queen with RiverWalkBoat Tours.

Anglers can go sport fishing on Lake Michiganwith Blue Max Charters or Crabby Charters.

Romantics can take a moonlight cruise or design

your own charter sail on a 34-foot sailing yacht operated bySea Dog Sailing.Festivals and sports

With a different ethnic festivalevery weekend from Maythrough September, Milwaukeehas earned the “City ofFestivals” moniker. Festivalsare held in a 75-acre lakesidepark with 10 permanent stagesplus a 23,000-seat amphitheater.

Home of professionalMilwaukee Bucks basketballand Milwaukee Brewers base-ball teams and dozens of sportsbars, Milwaukee is a well-estab-lished sports magnet.

Located on Lake Michigan’s

western shore, Milwaukee is 90 miles north of Chicagoat the intersection of I-94 and I-43.

Learn more from www.VisitMilwaukee.org800-554-1448

Byways • 19

About the Author. Based in thePhoenix area, Pat Woods has pennedscores of cruise, rail and travel features.You can see more of her work at: www.clippings.me/users/patwoods

The Milwaukee Art Museum is the focal pointof the downtown Lake Michigan shoreline.

Photo courtesy Pat Woods.

Harley-Davidson’s 105thSummerfest. Photocourtesy Visit Milwaukee.

Miller High Life bottle sign at the MillerCoorsBrewery. Photo courtesy Visit Milwaukee.

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Growing up inMinnesota, Ialways thought that

the slogan about the “landof 10,000 lakes” was a bigdeal, making my homestate something special --we had more lakes thananybody.

I am today next door inWisconsin. They tell mehere that they’ve got15,000 lakes, and always

have had. What a let down!I am at one, Elkhart Lake. It's 20 west of Sheboygan.

This place took on the eminence of an upscale lake resortin the late 1800s. And it still has that vintage feel andlook about it.

The three hotels, at the north end of the lake, were builtback than. One of them, the Osthoff Lake Resort, nowsprawls over a couple city blocks. It could easily keep apainter employed full-time just keeping its wood sidingwhite.

In 1872 the railroad pushed north. Elkhart Lake wasadded to the route. That track is still here, as is the pas-senger depot in the village. During the summer, folksfrom Milwaukee and Chicago, with steamer trunks intow, poured in here at the rate 2,000 a week. They foundrelief from the heat and dust of the big city here besidethe clear, spring-fed waters of Elkhart Lake.

Gambling was popular, especially with the Chicagocrowd. It was illegal, but that didn’t seem to matter.Men, women and children all crowded around theroulette wheels. Access to the gambling tables was as

easy as going to the soda fountain in a drug store. Thesheriff didn’t concern himself with it, saying it was “justa summer thing.” Finally in 1946, the last gamblinglocation was shut down.

I arrived at the lake for Labor Day weekend, which isthe official end of the summer in this part of country. Iwas out in a boat fishing early on Labor Day. The lake isdeep, maximum depth is 119 feet, and spreads over 292acres. According to the Wisconsin Department ofNatural Resources, it is among the 10 healthiest lakes inthe state for fish and wildlife. (That’s out of 15,000, lestwe forget.)

The morning began quietly and fishing was good.Nobody was on the lake. A little before 10, power boatsbegan easing out from docks all along the shore, whichis dense with cottages.

As if a race starter fired his pistol, at 10 o’clock thelake took on new life: those boats went to all-ahead-fullas water-skiers and wake boarders rose from the waterbehind them. The last day of a Wisconsin summer wasunderway, and right on schedule.

Boating rules here are strict: A speed of “slow, nowake” is always in effect except between 10:00 am and7:30 pm in the evening. That’s when the aquatic acro-bats and the speed-boaters have their fun. On Sunday, nomotorboats are allowed at all, unless you are using anelectric trolling motor.

The Tuesday after Labor Day was like the Floridacoast when a hurricane is coming ashore. The beacheswere all but empty and I saw only one water skier..

At the south end of the lake is a beautiful, tree-shadedcampground at Broughton Sheboygan Marsh Park. Thisis a 14,000-acre wildlife preserve with 30 acres devel-oped for campers.

Traveling the Highways & Bywayswith Bill Graves

20 • Byways

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The county built an 80-foot observation tower here. Aclimb to the top allows you to pick where in the park youwant to explore. I discovered that you can skip the climband still get the view -- albeit it on a TV monitor -- bygoing in the lodge and getting on the joy-stick that con-trols a video camera on the top of the tower.

About the author: After seeing much of the world as acareer naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, totake a closer look at the United States. He has been roamingthe country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with hisdog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California andis the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Townsof America. He can be reached at [email protected].

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Click for Video

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22 • Byways

The Mississippi River flows under the Third Avenue Bridge in downtown Minneapolis.Photo courtesy ©Explore Minnesota Tourism.

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The Mighty Mississippi: Experience Minnesota’s Remarkable Waterways

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“The Mississippi is well worth reading about. It isremarkable.” – Mark Twain

Minneapolis was born of water. From the mouthof the Upper Mississippi River roared the startof a historic hub. Formerly two separate cities,

Minneapolis and Saint Anthony joined to become one in1872, creating the “Flour Milling Capital of the World”in 1880 and for 50 years thereafter. The city of waterchurned to become a milling center, leading not only tothe industrial success it has today but to a culture deeplyrooted in nature.

From the land of nearly 12,000 thousand lakes, thebirthplace of the great Mississippi River, Minnesota’sappeal as a destination lies both in its abundant naturalscenery and in its vibrant cities. Itasca State Park is hometo the headwaters of the Mississippi and lures visitorswith its massive pines, miles of hiking trails and glisten-ing Lake Itasca, 250 miles north of the Twin Cities ofMinneapolis and Saint Paul.

The 575 miles of the river begin in north centralMinnesota and wind through Minneapolis and SaintPaul, offering much to explore. From Saint AnthonyFalls in the bustling downtown, the Mill City Museumtells the Mississippi River’s story of creation, expansionand modernization in the city of Minneapolis.

Minnesota waterways invite you to be adventurous.With Above the Falls Sports, take a kayak along theMississippi, and tour downtown Minneapolis in classicback-to-nature style. An urban kayaking adventure, this

signature experiencewill highlight landmarks along theriver, including Nicollet Island, Boom Island and more.

A variety of riverboat cruises offer visitors a uniqueand beautiful perspective on the City by Nature. ParadiseCharter Cruises, provider of charters on the MississippiRiver for over 18 years, can host groups large or small

24 • Byways

Itasca State Park is home to the headwatersof the Mississippi. Photo courtesy ©Explore

Recreation on City Lakes in downtown Minneapolis.Photo courtesy ©Explore Minnesota Tourism.

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for a narrated cruise with amazing sights of downtownMinneapolis.

Other great views await from above on the river bank.Segway Magical History Tours will take you across the

Mississippi on the Stone Arch Bridge through some ofthe most iconic places the city has to offer.

From the Guthrie Theater to the Weisman ArtMuseum, Minneapolis is home to an array of artistic and

Kayak along the Mississippi, andtour downtown Minneapolis. Photo

courtesy Visit Minneapolis.

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Riverboats on the Mississippi River. Photo courtesy©Explore Minnesota Tourism and Visit Minneapolis.

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cultural attractions. Explore American modernism or getplayful at the Guthrie Theater. Learn the unique art ofstage combat under the supervision of a professionaland feel connected with the city’s vibrant theatrical cul-ture. 

Looking for more to do? Minneapolis’ 197 parksencompass the city’s defining 22 lake shores and riverbanks to feature astonishing beauty and his-torical significance. Minnehaha RegionalPark, home to the 53-foot Minnehaha Falls,is one of the city’s oldest and most popularparks, attracting more than 850,000 visitorsannually. Additionally, the Chain of Lakes-- four of the largest lakes in Minneapolis --offers group activities from canoeing tostrolling along 13 miles of paved shorelinepaths.

Travel along the North Shore of LakeSuperior for seven breathtaking state parks.Experience the history of the shore at the1910 Split Rock Lighthouse, a commercialfishing museum in Tofte, MN, or the harbortown of Grand Marais -- including an artscenter full with galleries. Whether indoorsor outdoors, the scenery of the North Shoreof Lake Superior has earned national recog-nition. 

Home to nearly 12,000 lakes, 69,200 miles of riversand streams, and more shoreline than California, Hawaii,and Florida combined, Minnesota offers you a naturalplayground for a truly unique group travel experience.

Travel information and trip ideas available at minneapolis.org and exploreminnesota.com. 

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The 1910 Split Rock Lighthouse on Lake Superior.Photo courtesy ©Explore Minnesota Tourism.

From High in the Sky to ... High on a Plate! Make a date to travelthe Historic National Road in Illinois.

Like us on FaceBook! www.nationalroad.org

National Road Association of Illinois

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Minnehaha Regional Park, home tothe 53-foot Minnehaha Falls. Photocourtesy ©Explore MinnesotaTourism.

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The Belle of Louisville on the Ohio River in Downtown Louisville. Photo by John F. Revell,courtesy gotolouisville.com and Belle of Louisville.

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The Steamboat Belle of Louisville

Turns 101

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The 650 passenger steamboat Belle of Louisville isrecognized as the oldest river steamboat in opera-tion, and is a National Historic Landmark and one

of the River City’s most beloved and historic treasures. The Bell of Louisville is owned and operated by the

city of Louisville, Kentucky, and moored at its down-town wharf next to the Riverfront Plaza.

Originally named Idlewild, she was built by JamesRees & Sons Company in Pittsburgh, for the WestMemphis Packet Company in 1914 and was first put intoservice on the Allegheny River. Constructed with an all-steel superstructure and asphalt main deck, the steam-boat is said to hold the all-time record in her class formiles traveled, years in operation, and places visited.

On April 30, 1963, Belle of Louisville made her firstcruise in a race against the steamboat Delta Queen. Thatrace was the beginning of an unparalleled river tradition,the Great Steamboat Race.

The race is scheduled annually as part of the KentuckyDerby Festival. The event pits at least two riverboatsagainst each other in the span of the Ohio River that runsbetween Louisville, Kentucky and Jeffersonville,Indiana. Spectators can watch the event from the shore oraboard a competing vessel.

Idlewild operated as a passenger ferry between

Memphis, Tennessee, andWest Memphis, Arkansas. Shealso hauled cargo such as cot-ton, lumber, and grain. Shecame to Louisville in 1931 andran trips between the FontaineFerry amusement park neardowntown Louisville andRose Island, a resort about 14miles upriver from Louisville.Idlewild operated a regularexcursion schedule from 1934through World War II, duringwhich she was outfitted withspecial equipment to push oilbarges along the river.

She also served as a floatingUSO nightclub for troops sta-tioned at military bases alongthe Mississippi River.

In 1947, she was sold andrenamed Avalon. Over the nextfew years, Avalon visited portsall along the Mississippi,Missouri, St. Croix, Illinois,

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Kanawha, Ohio, and Cumberland Rivers. By 1962, Avalon had fallen into disrepair,

and might have seen the end of her days,when Jefferson County Judge Marlow Cookbought her at an auction for $34,000. Shecame to Louisville and was re-christenedBelle of Louisville.

The restoration of the boat was supervisedby marine architect Alan L. Bates (who laterbecame Captain Bates), whose book, Str.Belle of Louisville (1964), remains a primarysource on the history of the boat and thecrews who worked on her.

Prior to the auction, the hull had been con-demned as unfit by the U.S. Coast Guard:concrete patches had added much weight to the oft-dam-aged hull, as had generations of accumulated modifica-tions to the decks and fittings within her superstructure.

These were stripped and repaired in dry dock or removedby volunteers. What remained was cleaned, surface pre-pared, supplied with new finish carpentry, and painted in

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Great Steamboat Race. Belle of Louisville vs. Belleof Cincinnati. Photo courtesy gotolouisville.com and

Belle of Louisville.

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a style consistent with the boat's early 20th-century ori-gins.

In August 1997, Belle of Louisville was partially sunkat her moorings; a former crew member of the boat waslater convicted of sabotage. The proximate cause of thesinking was flooding of the hull via a city water line leftconnected to a fitting that led into the boat’s hull. Thanksto the swift actions of the steamer’s crew and other mem-bers of the community, the boat was rescued, repaired,and returned to service.

The Belle of Louisville turned 100 years old onOctober 18, 2014. To celebrate, a 5-day riverboat festivalnamed “The Belle’s Big Birthday Bash” was held inLouisville along parts of Louisville Waterfront Park.

Eight other riverboats from across the country joinedBelle of Louisville to help celebrate her 100th year onthe river. The festival incorporated cruises, fireworks,riverfront concerts, hot air balloon glows, and more. Theother riverboats attending the festival included Spirit ofJefferson, Anson Northrup, Belle of Cincinnati, The

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Colonel, General Jackson, River Queen, Spirit of Peoria,and Celebration Belle. This 5-day festival is said to bethe largest riverboat gathering that Louisville has seen inover 100 years.

Today, the Belle of Louisville offers scheduled diningand sightseeing cruises on the Ohio River for groups,weddings, families and individuals from April throughOctober. For tour groups, convenient on-site motorcoachparking is available for up to 6 coaches.

Tour groups are welcome on all public cruises, or pri-

vate charters may be arranged for special events.Reserved seating is arranged on the main deck for mealgroup tickets. Buffet dining is available on the lunch anddinner cruises.Visit http://www.belleoflouisville.org

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The Belle of Louisville at the start of The Great Steam-boat race on the Ohio river in Louisville, Kentucky.

Photo courtesy Joe Schneid.

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Smothers Park on the Ohio River is part of a $120 millionwaterfront investment in Owensboro, Kentucky.Photos courtesy Visit Owensboro.

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Owensboro, KY: The BigO Along the Mighty Ohio

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If the Belle of Louisville headed down the Ohio River,it would reach another visitor-friendly river town in151 miles, although you could make it in a couple of

hours overland in just 106 road miles. It’s Owensboro, amajor magnet for western Kentucky and a city that takesfull advantage of its river heritage.

Owensboro is Kentucky’s fourth largest city (almost100,000 people in the metro area), and it has been creat-ing its own renaissance in recent years.

As a regional business and development magazinenoted, “In the midst of the Great Recession, this OhioRiver town invested over $120 million in its waterfront,and the private sector soon matched it.”

Locals flock downtown for myriad reasons, and visi-tors can blend into a vibrant scene of live music, localrestaurants, museums, new hotels and festivals aplenty –all set in a sweeping bend of the river. Towboats andbarges glide by, and pleasure boaters add zip and color.

Front and center on the waterfront is Smothers Park,with multiple performance venues, a riverside prome-nade for quiet strolls or more serious exercise, benchesand swings for watching the river traffic and a cascadingfountain from the designers of the fountains at theBellagio in Las Vegas. Here, too, is one of the largest ful-ly handicapped-accessible playgrounds in the country.

Much of Owensboro’s vibrancy centers on three B’s –

bluegrass, barbecue andbourbon. Add a fourthB – for burgoo – if youwant. More on that lat-er.

Bluegrass music’spresence is easy toexplain. Bill Monroe,the Father of BluegrassMusic, is from Rosinein adjacent Ohio

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Spirits at Miller House.

Walk along the Ohio River.

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County, Kentucky, so the whole area is steeped in the“high lonesome sound” he made famous.

The International Bluegrass Music Museum is a majorattraction, and it is about to be supplanted by the twice-as-big and more elaborate International Bluegrass MusicCenter. Look for it in 2017.

“Just as country music is tied to Nashville and jazz istied to New Orleans, bluegrass is tied to Owensboro,”said Shannon Wetzel, executive director of VisitOwensboro.

Finding live bluegrass music is easy. There’s a hugethree-day festival called ROMP every June, jam sessionscrop up at various spots in town and Bluegrass on theBanks is a summertime Smothers Park mainstay. It’s alsocommon to be at the bluegrass museum and have guestswalk in behind you, open up their instrument cases andstart picking.

Bluegrass music leads to barbecue, and Owensborodelivers that in a big way. Expect pulled pork and chick-en, of course, but also try barbecue mutton, a westernKentucky specialty.

Fill your plate at famous places such as the MoonliteBar-B-Q Inn and the Old Hickory Restaurant, and don’toverlook numerous smaller barbecue joints. Let thesmoke be your guide.

Owensboro’s International Bar-B-Q Festival is a Maytradition, and it leads into a summer-long series ofchurch parish barbecue picnics. From May intoSeptember, there’s hardly a weekend without a parishpicnic and the opportunity to truly eat local.

Bourbon rounds out the three Bs. A new distillery ispreparing to open in Owensboro in a structure built as adistillery in 1885, and current tasting opportunities areabundant. Near the river are establishments such asGambrinus LibationEmporium (it and CYOBrewing have great craft beerselections, too), and nearby isthe Miller House, where adownstairs space calledSpirits offers more than 350bourbons.

What about that burgoomentioned earlier? Burgoo isa hearty stew of chicken,mutton and vegetables thatoriginated in pioneer days.Every cook’s recipe is differ-ent.

“We have Broadway playsat RiverPark, we have abeautiful botanical garden,we have barbecue galore, weknow how to throw a party –and we enjoy some spectacu-lar sunsets on the river. Wecan entertain a couple, a fam-

ily reunion or a busloadof folks who want somenew experiences. Wewere born ready forguests,” Wetzel said.If You Go

Owensboro is twohours southwest ofLouisville, two hoursnorthwest of Nashvilleand three hours east ofSt. Louis.

For more information,VisitOwensboro.com

Owensboro’s Festival SceneSomething’s going on almost all the time. Here’s a

sample.International Bar-B-Que Festival – early MayParish picnics – May through SeptemberBluegrass on the Banks – Twice-a-month bluegrass

shows at Smothers ParkFriday After 5 – Summertime Fridays, with music at

five downtown venuesBalloons Over the Garden – Hot-air balloons at the

Western Kentucky Botanical Garden every JuneROMP – A blowout bluegrass festival every JuneEast Bridge Arts & Music Festival – An early-

September street fest

Byways • 39Fountains at night.

Burgoo Stew

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Outdoor AdventuresAwait on Southwest

Louisiana’s WaterwaysBy Megan Hartman

Launch into the Lacassine Pool to discover 16,000 acres offresh water great for fishing, bird watching and photography.

Photo courtesy www.BrendaLafleur.com.

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Traveling along the Creole Nature Trail All-American Road in Southwest Louisiana near LakeCharles, you encounter a world of timeless tran-

quility. The environment through prairie lands, wet-

lands, marshes and Gulf of Mexico beachesinvites you to linger longer, breathe deeper andenjoy untamed wildlife. In the midst of hecticschedules, meetings and life, enjoying the water-ways near the Creole Nature Trail relaxes me andhelps me find balance.

Louisiana’s abundant bayous, rivers, lakes andwetlands provide unlimited fishing, boating andrecreational opportunities. In fact, Louisiana hasmore surface water available (84%) than any oth-er state. The Calcasieu River, in SouthwestLouisiana/Lake Charles, is a major river systemthat flows to the Gulf of Mexico and reachesaround Calcasieu Lake, locally known as “BigLake.”

As the Calcasieu transitions from an uplandsandy stream into a gorgeous cypress-lined river,fishermen catch bass, catfish, crappie and bream.Plenty of boat launches along the river allow

access for fishing, swimming, skiing, tubing or boating.There’s a great riverfront restaurant and bar,Loggerheads, in Moss Bluff, Louisiana that’s located onthe Calcasieu River with live music and the perfect sun-

Catch of the day. Photo courtesywww.monsoursphotography.net

Photo courtesy www.monsoursphotography.net

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set setting for a romantic evening. Following the river through the Saltwater Barrier

toward the Calcasieu Ship Channel, you will find someof the best fishing waters along the Gulf Coast. Knownfor its trophy-sized speckled trout, Calcasieu Lake is abrackish lake measuring roughly 12 miles long by ninemiles wide and about six feet deep. While on the shipchannel or in the lake, be on the lookout for “Pinky,” analbino bottlenose dolphin often spotted by locals andcharter fishing guides.

Create your own eco-tour while exploring theLacassine National Wildlife Refuge, part of the CreoleNature Trail All-American Road, via kayak! Bring yourown kayak or rent one in Lake Charles.http://www.visitlakecharles.org/outdooradventures/Launch into the Lacassine Pool to discover 16,000

acres of a fresh water impoundment great for fishing,bird watching and photography. Expect to catch bass,bluegill or crappie.

Bayou Kayak Rentals, 2360 Lake Street in LakeCharles, features two hour, half day and full day kayakrentals that will get you out on the water. You’ll haveaccess to Contraband Bayou, Little Bayou, plus beachaccess at L’Auberge Casino Resort and Golden NuggetLake Charles. Each resort offers beach side dining anddrink selections.

Along the Creole Nature Trail All-American Road,May to September is prime crabbing time! Stop at anyone of the bridges crossing the canals or make a beelineto one of the Sabine National Wildlife Refuge locations

or to Rockefeller Refuge’s Price Lake Drive where youare sure to catch delicious blue crabs. Simply tie a thickstring around a turkey neck for bait, toss it in the waterand wait for a slight pull. Slowly pull the line in andhave your dip net at the ready to scoop up your crabbefore he let’s go.

For more details on crabbing in Southwest Louisiana,check out the video “How to Catch a Crab” below.

About the Author. Megan Hartmanis Senior Marketing Manager for theLake Charles/Southwest LouisianaConvention & Visitors Bureau.

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Photo courtesy www.LindseyJanies.com

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Cruise into theSunset on theNiagara Belle

Anew Niagara boat tour allows passengers to soakup the beauty and history of the stunning NiagaraRiver from the decks of a fully restored New

Orleans-style paddle wheeler.The Niagara Belle, which previously operated as a

cruise boat in Toronto Harbour on Lake Ontario and inthe Upper Niagara River, has been given a new lease onlife by Niagara Sunset Cruises, a sister company toWhirlpool Jet Boat Tours of Niagara-on-the-Lake.

Niagara Sunset Cruises bought the boat in 2013 andgave it a complete overhaul, including more than $1 mil-lion in renovations.

After running private charter trips last summer, theNiagara Belle is offering cruises for the general public

for the first time ever this season. Departures are avail-able to passengers on both sides of the Niagara Riverfrom docks in Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON. and Lewiston,NY Dinner cruises depart from both the Canadian andAmerican docks, while lunch, wine tasting and a specialSunday Captain’s Cruise are offered from the Canadianside only.

“The Niagara Belle offers a unique opportunity to takein the beautiful scenery along the Niagara River like FortNiagara, Fort George, General Brock’s Monument andthe Queenston-Lewiston Bridge,” says John Kinney,President of Niagara Sunset Cruises and Whirlpool JetBoat Tours. “Whether it’s a dinner or wine tasting cruise,guests will get to taste and experience some of Niagara’sbest offerings in one excursion.”

The Niagara Belle takes visitors on a leisurely cruisedown the Lower Niagara River, through Queenston andNiagara-on-the-Lake, to the mouth of Lake Ontario. Theship can accommodate up to 80 people for a seated din-ner and about 140 for cocktail cruises.

Along with public cruises, Niagara Sunset Cruisesalso offers private and corporate charters on the NiagaraBelle in Canada and the U.S., which can be booked in

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advance for events such as birthday parties, banquets,fundraisers, team-building retreats or VIP events.

Thrill-seekers can also try the Whirlpool Jet BoatTours, which provides the exhilaration of getting soaked

by Class 5 whitewater while speeding along the NiagaraRiver in custom-built jet boats.

For more information on Niagara Sunset Cruises, visit www.niagarasunsetcruises.com.

What’s HappeningWhat’s Happening

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Before heading to the movie theater this summer tosee the anticipated blockbuster Jurassic World,families can experience the real thing by vaca-

tioning at Utah's Dinosaurland and its acclaimedDinosaur National Monument.

“Kids love learning about dinosaurs, especially at theWall of Bones,” said Lesha Coltharp, director of tourismfor Utah's Dinosaurland. “It's the best way to make avacation both fun and educational.”

Dinosaur National Monument provides a rare glimpseinto the past with nearly 1,500 exposed bones capturedin their final resting place. The one-of-a-kind Wall ofBones measures 50 feet high and 200 feet long and fea-tures the remains of at least 100 intertwined dinosaurs.

“The recently renovated Quarry Exhibit Hall gives vis-itors an up-close experience with world-famous dinosaurskeletons,” said Sonya Popelka, the monument's inter-pretive operations supervisor. “A portion of the Wall ofBones is even open for a hands-on experience where youcan touch the actual dinosaur bones.”

While the 210,000-acre monument is marking its cen-tennial this year, the dinosaur fossils have been aroundjust a bit longer, somewhere in the neighborhood of 149million years. The 100-year celebration is seen as a kick-starter to the National Park Service's centennial mile-stone in 2016.

“Dinosaur National Monument was established onOctober 4, 1915, and this season will be full of specialevents recognizing the Dinosaur Centennial throughout2015,” said Monument Superintendent Mark Foust.

Foust said the monthly activities will focus on the var-ious reasons why the monument remains an importantplace for scientists, history buffs, artists and adventureenthusiasts.

The Wall of Bones is just the beginning of the fossil-friendly attractions found in Utah's Dinosaurland. TheUtah Field House of Natural History State Park Museumfeatures a Dinosaur Garden with life-size dinosaur repli-cas, and Red Fleet State Park is covered with hundredsof three-toed dinosaur tracks.

“Whether you're traveling with little ones or adven-ture-seeking teenagers, Dinoland has you covered,”Coltharp said. “From rafting to fishing, water is also abig part of the fun at our many reservoirs and rivers.”

Whitewater rafting through Dinosaur NationalMonument on the Green River has also become a popu-lar must-do thrill for families seeking an unforgettableexperience, and nearby Flaming Gorge Reservoir isknown across the West for its excellent fishing.

Families can also hop in the car and do some dinosaurtracking along the Dinosaur Diamond National ScenicByway. The prehistoric journey travels along a 512-mileloop where motorists can see excavation sites, Native

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Visitors can also enjoy hiking, biking, mountainclimbing and whitewater adventures at DinosaurNational Monument in Utah.

Utah’s DinosaurlandCelebrates 100thAnniversary of

Dinosaur NationalMonument

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Quarry Exhibit Hall is locatedover the world-famous “Wall ofBones” at Dinosaur NationalMonument in Utah.

American petroglyphs and sought-after wilderness areaslike Canyonlands and Arches national parks.About Dinosaurland:

Located just three hours east of Salt Lake City in Vernal,Utah’s Dinosaurland is a hidden gem of adventure and dis-covery. The area is home to one of the most productive

Jurassic Period dinosaur quarries in the world at DinosaurNational Monument. Bucket-list destinations include theWall of Bones and its 1,500 exposed dinosaur bones andthe Dinosaur Garden. From dinosaur bones and ancientpetroglyphs, to trophy fishing and epic road trips,Dinosaurland provides something for everyone. To easilyplan your trip, visit: www.dinoland.com.

Green River Canyon in Dinosaur National Monument. Photo courtesy Michael Rissi.

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Quiz: What is the name of the home ThomasJefferson’s designed in Virginia? Monticello.Right. But you might be surprised to learn

Jefferson designed a second home in Virginia: PoplarForest!

One of only two homes Thomas Jefferson designed forhis personal use, the Poplar Forest retreat was the placewhere Jefferson “came to indulge in the life of the mindand renew his personal creativity.” Jefferson and hiswife, Martha, inherited the Bedford County plantationknown as Poplar Forest from her father in 1773. Whenhis presidency ended in 1809, Jefferson visited theretreat three or four times a year, often staying for sever-al months at a time during planting seasons.

Designated a National Historic Landmark by theSecretary of the Interior, and nearly lostto development, Thomas Jefferson’sPoplar Forest plantation in the foothillsof the Blue Ridge Mountains was res-cued in 1984 by a group of local citi-zens who sought to preserve it for thecultural and educational benefit of thepublic.

Poplar Forest was opened to the pub-lic for the first time in 1986, in its“before restoration” state. Today, theneoclassical architecture of the octago-nal house has been returned to Mr.Jefferson’s design. The National Trustfor Historic Preservation has recog-nized the meticulous research andrestoration efforts with its highestaward, and the plantation has beennominated as a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site.

A visit to Poplar Forest offers aunique opportunity to observe a “live”

archaeological dig and historic restoration in progress, asefforts to reveal and restore Thomas Jefferson’s visionfor his personal retreat continue.

Poplar Forest is open daily from March 16 throughDecember 30 (closed on Easter, Thanksgiving Day,Christmas Eve and Christmas Day) from 10:00 am until5:00 pm.

Admission includes a guided house tour and self-guid-ed exploration of exhibits in the lower level of the house,the wing of offices, the ornamental grounds and the slavequarter site. Guided tours of the octagonal house begin at10:00 am and run every half hour, with the last tour of theday beginning at 4:00 pm.

For more information about Thomas Jefferson’sPoplar Forest, visit poplarforest.org or call 434-525-1806.

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Jefferson’s Poplar Forest

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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptionsare complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store.

Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel man-agers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to placeadvertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875.

©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in anyform without express written permission of the publisher.

Editor and PublisherStephen M. Kirchner

Advertising Director502-785-4875

Internet:bywaysmagazine.com [email protected]

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