dansk daily 5th of august
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A new glamourous
—
MINIMALISMMax Factor
— LOOK OF THE DAY:
STINE GOYA
Reviews —
VERONICA B. VALLENES, WACKERHAUS,
BRUUNS BAZAAR,BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
Trend —
MODELS: IS SKINNY
GOING OUT OF STYLE?
dansk dailyCOPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK SPRING SUMMER 2012
— Friday 05.08.2011 —
Cover photo — Designers Remix by Anders von Gre!elstejn
PROUD SPONSOR OF COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
— page 2 —
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— Editorial —
”I got chills, they’re multiplying!” The lyrics from a softer, sexier version of Grease’s ’You’re the one that I want’ sounded clearly through City Hall yesterday when Stine Goya presented her show. The sight of it did bring chills, and indeed something in there was multiplying. Goya’s collection was beautifully true to the designer’s beloved quirky chic. And in what seemed to be an a"empt to further cement her identity as a designer, Goya had styled all the show’s models in bright orange wigs, mimicking her own long mane with its trademark sharply cut front, making it seem like she herself was multiplying on the runway. That was pre"y cool.
What is also cool this fashion week is a general feeling of optimism and progress. On the runways, this was reflected in Stine Goya’s glitzy golden evening dresses and long gold fringes; in Norwegian Veronica B. Vallenes’s upbeat pastels fusioned with a sharp Nordic simplicity; and in Benedikte Utzon’s ladylike golden jackets and flower blouses. It was also seen in the wide variety of whites and sparkling pinks, oranges and yellows as well as gold and sa!ron and bubblegum pastels, for instance in Designers Remix’s whites with bold neon green lime. It all adds up to a new sort of glamorous minimalism.
That is not all. Danish Fashion Institute’s collaboration with the Union Against Eating Disorders has finally resulted in an age limit of 16 for models in Copenhagen Fashion Week,
and still more forces in Danish fashion are backing the project. A string of Danish designers have voiced their support to Eva Kruse, who in this issue of Dansk Daily phrases a new aim to establish a healthier lean and slim look in fashion. Even nutritional expert and ex-model Christian Bitz’s ground rules for backstage food (forget champagne and candy) seem to have caught on. At least one model was seen leaving Goya’s show happily munching on rye bread with hummus.
At the same time, it seems the need to extend our awareness of sustainability in fashion has at last reached Christiansborg, home of the Danish government. This week, environmental minister Karen Ellemann visited companies that work to promote eco-friendly and sustainable design. Also, one of the ho"est names on the front row so far this year has been political party leader Margrethe Vestager. While the fashion week was thus a"ended by a top politician, elsewhere Silas
Adler of Soulland and Malene Birger toasted the fact that their significance in Danish fashion have, deservedly, been celebrated with postal stamps in their honor. Meanwhile, Bruuns Bazaar and Noir, both promoting new creative directors, told Dansk Daily’s Elsebeth Mouritzen that they’ve received a lot of positive a"ention from fashion lovers and buyers et al. And who can blame them? It’s hard not to want to buy into the new Spring/Summer collections. Minimalism still rules the fashion world. That doesn’t mean it’s dull.
IT’S ELECTRIFYING
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion WeekEDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe
CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna FritzSUBEDITOR Magnus Jorem
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine PerssonBEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt
ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Design UnitEDITORIAL ASSISTANT Theresa Bødkergaard
WRITERS Elsebeth Moritzen, Moussa Mchangama, Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning, Stinne Jensen, FashionForum.dkPHOTOGRAPHERS Anders von Gre!elstejn, Simon B. Mørch, Thomas Degner, Sacha Maric
DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Karen Bang Larsen PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 6 —
— News —
STOMP ON ALL YOUR EX-GIRLFRIENDS
House Of Montague is a newly-established footwear company for men based in Copenhagen, which earlier this summer debuted at
the PREMIUM MEN trade show in Berlin. The label is o! for an-other debut as they are showing their collection for SS12 at the TERMINAL-2 trade show in Copenhagen. House Of Montague’s
aim is to create high-end quality sneakers at an a!ordable price, without compromising the quality in the materials used. All shoes
are manufactured in Europe with materials sourced from European suppliers. The debut collection consist four styles, all named after
the ex-girlfriends of the designer and owner.Houseofmontague.dk
SEND YOUR MAIL IN A FASHIONABLE WAY
Sending airmail is so unfashionable these days, but with the new fashion stamps, it might just get a li"le more fun. Post Danmark asked designers Silas Adler of Soulland and the namesake of By Malene Birger to design two di!er-ent fashion stamps, launching all over Denmark yesterday during Copenhagen fashion week. It’s the first time ever that fashion designers create stamps in Denmark, so this is not just an honor – it’s also evidence that the artistic dimensions in fashion are being taken seriously.
IBEN’S PICK OF THE DAY
Much to our delight, Baum und Pferdgarten is back on the show
track and again the duo showcases an elegant maturity added to their
trademark circus-like chic. This flock printed coat with # sleeves
and kni"ed pipings, and jersey hooded top is cool yet understated
chic with Breton striped shorts.
DANMARK
Malene Birger del.B.S.J. sc. – 2011
6.00
Anne loves new talentExecutive editor Anne is thrilled about the many new exciting talents debuting this season on the runway during Copenhagen Fashion Week: ”Anne Sofie Madsen, Helje Hamre and Dennis Lyngsø are some of the debutants I am looking forward to seeing this season.”
NEWS—
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 7 —
— News —
WEIGHTLESS WINNERThe Max Factor Xperience Weightless Foundation bears its name with no pretense and no unfulfilled promises. Be-cause it is the sort of foundation that really feels weight-less on the skin and gives you just enough cover to dimin-ish any skin flaws, while le"ing the best of your own skin shine through. Which is really the basic quality of any good makeup: Show but don’t tell. Because in the end, you want people to notice your skin and not your foundation…
And speaking of show: The Max Factor Xperience Weight-less Foundation was honored with the prestigious Makeup Product Of the Year Award at the 2011 Danish Beauty Award.
Max Factor Xperience Weightless Foundation comes in variety of colors to fit your skin tone and costs 149 DKK.
Rozanna’s pickCreative editor Rozanna loves the work of contemporary artist Anika Lori, an Italian-Danish force to be reckoned with.
A softer popThe Danish fashion brand Soft
Gallery’s SS12 children and women’s collection has been inspired by pop art, a movement which in surprising
and eclectic ways combined the sphere of popular culture with
the world of art. As always, Soft Gallery features di!erent artists for
the collection, including Fontaine Anderson, Rafaela de Campos, Karen
Segall and Sarah Becker. www.softgallery.dk
NEWS—
Fashion ForumInterested in the fashion industry as such and not just dress lengths? FashionForum.dk covers Danish and international fashion with a focus on business and the industry. Browse the site for stories on corporate social responsibility, portraits of brands and the latest retail tendencies. You can also find articles on the economics of fashion and web shopping, and during Copenhagen Fashion Week, the site covers all of the runway shows with critical reviews.fashionforum.dk
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 8 —
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— News —
WEEKDAY SOPHISTICATION
The latest designer to join the Weekday Collaboration project is none other than Bruno Pieters. The renowned Belgian-born designer has created a collection that em-braces his signature style, a design that is fresh, timeless and sophisticated. Bruno Pieters’ collection for both men and women will be available in all Weekday stores by the
beginning of October. Weekday.se
Fashion shoppers in SoHo are up for a new privilege-when shopping for luxurious shoes on fashionable Prince Street. Danish illustrator Rikke Jørgensen has been asked to decorate a wall in the flagship store of hip New Yorker brand Sigerson Morrison. Originally trained as an architect from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Rikke Jørgensen has illustrated for magazines like Nylon, Italian A-Magazine, Versus and Branding and Design and done campaigns for GAP and Schweppes. There is good reason to mark the name of the illustrator who is currently on demand from a wide variety of fashion brands — from local darlings Upcoming Creatures to none other than Tom Ford. rikkejorgensen.blogspot.com
INSIDE COPENHAGEN
Danish top model Josephine Skriver, a fashion week favorite of Prada, Chanel and Calvin Klein, takes time o! from the international runways to share her favorite spots in Copenhagen.
As any Copenhagener will tell you, there’s no be"er way to truly experi-ence the Danish capital than to bike. Hop on one and check out Christiania (before our government shuts it down!)
For lunch I would try the traditional Danish ’smør-rebrød’, which are open-faced sandwiches. You can find places all over town, but I really love Royal Cafe near Storkespringvandet at the central Amager Torv, where you can try smørrebrød with a contemporary twist!
The coziest café that I know of is Tante T in Vest-erbro’s Viktoriagade. I love tea, and Tante T is this small tea shop with every flavor of tea you can imagine. So if you’re of the same tea-loving per-suasion, this should be your new favorite dig.
ILLUSTRATOR ON THE GO
TONYA HARDING, FASHION ICON
Peter Jensen has, throughout his career, built up his collections around particularly charismatic individuals, Muses, who have given his design a sense of time and place. Design Museum Denmark presents five of Peter Jensen’s selected Muses at an exhibition opening during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Go see Mildred, Tonya, Jy"e, Laurie and Muriel yourself. Designnuseum Danmark. From 4th August – 30th October 2011, Designmuseum.dk
NEWS—
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 9 —
— News —
BALENCIAGA MUSEUM NOW OPENED
Good news for those who love Balenciaga (e.g. every-one): The Museo Balenciaga, as it is called in Spanish, is now open for visitors. The museum devoted to the Spanish couturier has been 10 years in the making, but now another museum devoted to fashion is a reality. Find it in the small village of Getaria, where Cristobal
Balenciaga was born. Locatd north of San Sebastian, it’s an ideal place for fashion surfers. Balenciaga was born in Getaria in 1895 and opened his couture house in Paris in 1937. The rest is history. cristóbalbalenciagamuseoa.com
NEWS—
WON HUNDRED HIRES MENSWEAR DESIGNER
In the future, the menswear collections by Copenhagen-based brand Won Hundred will have their very own designer. Won Hundred has decided to relieve the pressure on creative director Kelly Koning – who will continue to be in charge of womenswear– by hiring Royal Danish School of Design-graduate Tobias Harboe as the company’s new menswear designer. Since graduating in 2009, Tobias Harboe has functioned as show-, exhibition- and store designer for Danish fashion house Henrik Vibskov. wonhundred.com.
SOFIE BILLE BRAHEHaving graduated from London’s Royal College of Arts, fine jewelry designer Sophie Bille Brahe recently launched her
eponymous brand. Sophie o!ers pieces that reflect her thrill for story-telling and avant-garde design, always striving to
crack modern luxury. Although the company is new, she has already assembled a cult following — along with invitations for showcases and exhibitions around the world — for her elegant
designs. www.sophiebillebrahe.com
— page 10 —
Six centimeters may not seem a lot. But if you consider that it’s how much the ideal international hip-size for a female model has shrunk over the past ten years, it is quite a cause for concern. At least it’s what forces in Danish fashion believe, which is why Copenhagen Fashion Week is seeing a line of new initiatives designed to take on the shrinking beauty ideal. A lower age limit of 16 years has been establi-shed by Danish Fashion Institute and the nine largest Danish model agencies, pu"ing an end to a growing demand for 14 and 15 year old girls on the runways. The initiative was born out of a collaboration between Danish Fashion Insitute and The Union Against Eating Disorders, who in 2007 presented ’The Ethical Charter of the Fashion Industry.’
”The charter was a shared commitment in which we agreed to openly address these possible problems. These include the possibility that people working in fashion are more exposed to eating disorders because we work in a business that is all about being very thin, very tall and very young,” says Eva Kruse, director of Danish Fashion Institute and Copenhagen Fashion Week. ”It is not our business to change that, seeing as the ideal beauty at a given time will always be something that appears to be una"ainable for the majority people in that culture. When people have been poor and there has been a shortage of foods, the trend was not to be thin. In an a!luent society, the trend is reversed. But we do want to make sure that our models have the ideal working conditions and the means and support to have a healthier life in the business, and we strive to enforce a more natural and healthy lean and slim look,” says Eva Kruse.
YET, THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE WHEN IT COMES TO KEEPING THE MODELS HEALTHY IS THE GROWING – OR RATHER SHRINKING – DEMANDS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION SCENE. ”We want our models to be slim in a healthy way, and we do not want to push a girl with a hip size of 91 down to 86.” A common means to measure physical health is BMI, but Eva Kruse and her colleagues disregard the method: ”The only thing BMI tells you is the relation between your height and your weight. It does not reveal whether or not a young girl is skinny because she is built that way or because she deprives herself of good food.” The Union Against Eating Disorders and Danish Fashion Institute now aim to introduce a health check, which is in the interest of many models.
”We need to change the general a"itude. We all have a responsibility when it comes to which models are being booked, and what sort of beauty ideal we share. I mean, isn’t it enough now?! Shouldn’t we put an end to the idealization of androgynous, boy-women?!” She makes her to appeal to designers as well as casters. When Susanne Rützou sews her styles up in a size 38, she needs models size 38 to wear them; and according to Eva Kruse, other designers would do well to follow her example. Another leading pioneer on the quest to create a healthier beauty ideal is Peter Damgaard, owner and director of modelling agency 2PM. Inspired by the Ethical Charter of 2007, he opened 2PM Academy which engages the models in a sort of health-training program. Basically, it teaches the young men and women how to be fit and healthy, mentally as well as physically, and how to develop a strong sense of self. ”I want to make sure that we’re on the same page
when discussing weight loss with a young girl. We teach them to eat well and exercise.It’s still a challenge when you play in the big league.”
”The power is all with the casting agents for the big fashion brands, such as Prada, Chanel and Calvin Klein. High fashion dictates the ideal, and if you look at campaigns for Prada, Balenciaga and Chanel, the girls look 15 years old. The problem is that because the designers sew their collection up in a size XXX-small, the girls have to be so young that they do not have a female form yet. So when they mature and grow curves, the casters lose interest in them.” This means that a great model can be finished after three seasons. It’s not that I want to go back to the 90s when the supermodels ruled. Today’s models have more personality and beauty can also be defined by big ears or imperfect teeth. But people at the model agencies are sick and tired of telling skinny girls they have to be skinnier,” says Damgaard. He has made it a personal promise to improve terms for his models, even to a point where he has, apparently, succeeded in teasing a fashion powerhouse like Prada.
WHEN 2PM IS ASKED FOR POLAROIDS OF ITS MO-DELS FROM PRADA’S CASTING DIRECTOR RUSSELL MARSH AND HIS POWERFUL COLLEAGUES, DAM-GAARD CLADS THEM IN T-SHIRTS SAYING: ”WHEN CAN I EAT AGAIN MR. MARSH?” Rumor has it the casting o!ices of Prada and Miu Miu in Milan were not exactly pleased with 2pm’s T-shirt statements. ”If that’s the case, I am satisfied, because it means our message has been received.” Peter Damgaard does not dispute the greatness of Prada’s name, but so far the agency owner has proved there are other ways to work than via the extremely competitive atmosphere of the runways, where everyone secretly aims at a big campaign. Winning a campaign for Chanel or Prada is like winning the ultimate championship. 2pm’s current star model Dorte was held back because he didn’t want her to su!er a ’bu"erfly’ career: ”I’ve seen too many models postpone high school and leave their friends and families to have short careers doing hard work in a very competitive environment. You can hire Dorte for a campaign, but I did not want her to go through the hardships of the runway game while still in school. She is 16 and should have a long career.” Somehow, this new approach paid o!. When the phone did ring for Dorte, it was from Prada’s New York O!ice asking her to do the campaign.
CREATING THE IDEAL BEAUTY Words — Iben Albinus Sabroe Illustrator — Rikke Jørgensen
AS INTERNATIONAL CASTERS OVER THE YEARS HAVE REQUESTED STILL YOUNGER – AND STILL SKINNIER – MODELS, FORCES IN DANISH FASHION ARE LAUNCHING INITIATIVES TO CREATE A
HEALTHIER BEAUTY IDEAL. EVEN IF IT MEANS TEASING POWERHOUSES LIKE PRADA.
— page 10 —
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— Feature —
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 12 —
— Shows —
Words — Stinne Jensen Photo — Sacha Maric
MIAMI NICE
WACKERHAUS
The SS12 South Pastel Beach Collection, which showed Thursday at noon, was divided into two coloration opposites:
The first part consisted of dark, grey-tone cocktail dresses, stylish jackets and chic shirt-and-shorts sets. Smart knots on the dresses and pants made the silhoue"e fla"ering for everyone, and Wackerhaus’s signature use of lace was also present in a few well-chosen styles. The look was cool, clean and clever.
Part two overflowed with pre"y ice cream pastels such a yellow, pink, blue and turquoise, and had a livelier feel to it. The Miami South Beach inspiration — also present in the beach-like runway cover and sound of waves — was clear but never entered cliché territory. Among the highlights were the free-flowing full length, two-tones dresses and the humorous flamingo-printed jumpsuits.
The smiling long-limbed beach babes parading the collection made every style look wearable — even to us mere mortals. In fact, every style looked chic with that Scandinavian understated simplicity, without a trace of boredom.
POST DANMARK HAR DEN 4. AUGUST 2011 UDGIVET
TO FRIMÆRKER MED MOTIVER AF MODEDESIGNERNE
SILAS ADLER OG MALENE BIRGER.
FRIMÆRKERNE ER EN HYLDEST TIL DANSK MODE.
M DEpå frimærker
DANMARK
Malene Birger del.B.S.J. sc. – 2011
6.00
Soulland del. – 2011 Bertil Skov Jørgensen sc.
KØB FRIMÆRKERNE PÅ POSTHUSET ELLER PÅ WWW.POSTDANMARK.DK/NETBUTIK
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 14 —
NEW LOOK – DIFFERENT ORDER
BRUUNS BAZAAR
Words — Rikke Dyrholm Photo — Sacha Maric
Last night in the heart of Copenhagen, the new head of design at Bruuns Bazaar, Rebekka Bay, showed why she is the new leading lady at the label. To the tunes of Nancy Sinatra song This girl is leaving you behind, she presented her contribution to the iconic fashion brand.
Both the men’s and women’s collections revealed a keenness for sport and Japonism culture. Focusing on graphic daily wear that featured minimalistic traits in company with Bruuns Bazaar trademarks, including classic tailored trousers, chinos, shirts, feminine dresses and traditional suits, the collection appeared safe and a"ainable.
Boxy dresses with dropped waistlines and split necklines, indicated, along with the collection’s thin kni"ed shirts with bo"om details and color blocking garments, that Bay has borrowed from her years at Cos – which adds to the brand a refreshing sporty touch with a feel of modern chic.
The colors were held in a proper Bruuns Bazaar spirit, presenting a mix of navy blue, khaki, camel, white, grey, black — and fluorescent peach as a standout. All of which were exhibited a luxurious yet downplayed quality.
Expectations for the new Bruuns Bazaar were high. The big hand of applause at the end of the show proved that they had been met.
— Shows —
selected.com
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DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 16 —
Design graduate shows are always a great platform for new talents to present their designs and for the rest of us to see the work of their creative minds.
Yesterday, ten graduates of the design school at The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts (Danmarks Designskole) showed their vision of how Danish fashion should look in the future. The collections span over a broad variety of inspiration, from baroque femme fatale lingerie to street-inspired easy wear in bright blue nylon mixed with both bags
and necklaces of cork. There were feminine do"ed prints and autumn colored knit.
Lisa Våglund, one of the new designers with a focus on men’s fashion, showed some really interesting examples of which direction Danish menswear might venture in the future with exciting knitwear, deconstructed pants and jackets, in addition to multifunctional pieces where a white shirt turns into a kni"ed cardigan, and a greyish piece is a combination of waistcoat and shirt.
The design graduate Urd Moll Mundermann showed a humoristic take on next spring’s fashion with textile printing in a vibrant color pale"e and loose silhoue"es. Kamilla Ho!mann presented a modern and classic collection with high-waisted pants, long but casual coats and knit with hound-tooth pa"erns — all adding a sporty twist. However, the fashion show was not only on the runway: The crowd at City Hall, mainly consisting of co-students from the design school, was
just as spectacular and an inspirational sight.
The ballroom at Nimb was the perfect se"ing for veteran designer Stasia, as she hosted clients and celebrities with an intimate dinner prior to her show, topped by leggy Danish Minister of Employment Inger Støjberg. Dessert came in the form of dresses for all occasions after five o’clock.
For decades, Stasia has been the preferred dressmaker for weddings, balls and big dinner parties, always delivering the perfect fit and a personal interpretation of current fashions.
Lace has been a staple throughout her career, and being on the height of fashion, she took the delicate weave to new grounds: a Barbarella-inspired 60s jumpsuit, a short backless cocktail dress, a softly tailored rose satin dress with a loosely cut lace overskirt, and contrasting black lace over ivory and powder satin underdresses.
Stasia proved she also masters chi!on, lovely in a moss jump-suit, a fuchsia one-shoulder dress and a grey goddess dress. And for the woman shy of showing too much skin, a midnight blue longsleeved satin dress, reminiscent of Hollywood-divas, o!ered glamour in the modern, minimalistic way.
Words — Sille Henning Photo — Sacha Maric
DANMARKS DESIGNSKOLE
Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen Photo — Sacha Maric
STASIA
QUEEN OF LACE
YOUNG CREATIVITY AT WORK
— Shows —
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 18 —
— Shows —
Words — Moussa Mchangama Photo — Sacha Maric
THE POSTMAN ALWAYS RINGS TWICE
SOULLAND
Earlier today, Soulland revealed its new fashion stamp designs for Denmark’s postal service. Working with the postal system has clearly inspired designer Silas Adler for his SS12 collection, combining reds and whites, and interpreting the classic postal uniform and sweater.
The theme was softened with prints of roses in either reds and pinks or black and white, which worked well as the most extravagant feature of the new collection. Featuring a beautiful
burgundy blazer, trousers with elastic bands, shorts and a reinterpretation of the college and leather jackets from last season, it balanced between keeping house favorites while presenting new features. The shoes were, once again, beautiful, complimenting a collection that promised to be sellable — but still full of surprises.
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MAKE-UP ARTISTRY AT EYE-LEVEL
Mina Ingerslev,responsible makeup-artist for Max Factor
“As it offers so many strings to play on and yet is really easy to use, the Eye Effect Collection is a dream come true for any make-up artist – especially as things often get really busy backstage...”
Make eye contact with your inner make-up artist
It is said that the eyes are the mirrors of the soul. Whether that’s true or not, there is certainly no way of getting around the fact that the eyes are the most important part of any look as the eyes express our personality, our emotions and our desires. And as most of us don’t have our own make-up artist, Max Factor now introduces the Eye Effect Collection to help you create stunning, professional eye looks yourself.
A playground of opportunities...
Max Factors’ Eye Effect Collection is a toolbox of great products that are designed to complement each other enabling you to easily create the same level of perfection that a professional make-up artist can achieve backstage – whether your ambition is a natural look, the classic smoky eyes look or bolder, multi-coloured looks for every personality and every occasion.False Lash Effect Fusion Mascara – our biggest brush for volume and our ultimate lengthening formula fused together in one mascara.Liquid Effect Pencils – striking liquid intensity with the ease of a pencil, comes in a wide variety of shades.Smoky Eye Effect Eye Shadow – dual-ended eye shadow with a range of 6 expertly matched shades that are really easy to work with.
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DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 22 —
— Shows —
City Hall was turned into a priory of youthful monks, as debutant fashion designer Magnus Lõppe unveiled a passion for deafening silence and gender bending.
The show’s boyish models appeared innocent with glossy, side-parting hair, with the exception of the final model, whose fairly matured look and bald head seemed to represent a kind of
religious transition.
Lõppe presented a clean yet complex collection with female traits like knee-long layered shirts and jackets, capes, tight knits and asymmetrical fine points combined with classics-inspired tailored menswear. This gender-bending dichotomy was echoed by the show’s balance between unlikely moods — beauty and emptiness.
The color scale demonstrated a fondness for darkness, structured in white, grey, black and navy shades.
Details showed a clean structure with nods to sculpturing and architecture in this clean-cut and rigorously designed debut collection.
With one of the biggest international a"endances at this Copenhagen Fashion Week so far (V Magazine, Vogue USA, Fantastic Man, bloggermania, etc.), it was a joy to see that the young menswear designer Jean//phillip once again had
developed his aesthetics and updated signature looks.
The zippers on vests, jackets, trousers and blouses were still there, but the look has been updated with a use of linen,
poplin, cashmere and lamb leather. The reference was ancient Japan and the old samurai Ronin, but the new Jean//phillip pieces proved anything but costumey. Rather, it was quite
subtle. Slouchy (but still fi"ed) trousers, high-waisted shorts with belts, beautiful leather pants and jackets, long, flowing cardigans and various tanks, tops and some long shirts made
out the collection in black, grey and white.
It takes a good designer to give an almost black collection a light feeling, but once again, Jean//phillip proved that he’s
developed the craftsmanship it takes to elevate casual clothes into beautiful garments.
Words — Rikke Dyrholm Photo — Sacha Maric
MAGNUS LÕPPE
Words —Moussa Mchangama Photo — Sacha Maric
JEAN//PHILLIP
KIMONO CUTS
A SOUND OF SILENCE
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 24 —
— Shows —
Words — Sille Henning Photo — Sacha Maric
THE POWER OF SIMPLICITY
VERONICA B. VALLENES
The Norwegian designer Veronica B. Vallenes, who last season won the Max Factor Talent New Award, showed her Spring/Summer 2011 collection yesterday at the beautiful venue of the exclusive Nimb hotel.
With a focus on clean lines and simple silhoue"es, the designs showed a beautiful collection, moving the designer away from harsh materials and towards a more lively and sophisticated universe still true to the powerful woman evident in her collections. Except from black and splashes of cobalt blue, the color pale"e was muted and consisted of mouse
grey, pistachio, beige, and pale peach, giving the collection an exclusive spring feel. Easily draped were the oversize jackets mixed with tight shorts; other noteworthy items included Vallenes’s long dresses with delicate details and her slim dresses over tight pants.
It was a collection that honored the power of simplicity, without going dull.
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 25 —
A RIDE IN THE GOYA BALLOON
STINE GOYA
Words — Stinne Jensen Photo — Sacha Maric
Air balloons and Paris in the early 1900s were stated as inspiration for the SS12 ‘La Ballon Imaginary’ collection that overflowed with classic Goya styles and her quirky yet beautiful color combinations. As always, Goya delivered super feminine clothes that never fail to tease a girl’s innermost desire to look pre"y, girly and cool. The collection o!ered everything from flimsy daytime dresses, soft pants and cozy cardigans, to glitzy gold evening dresses and a lot of elegant jumpsuits.
Soft candy-floss colors — peach, rosy, champagne — were mixed with cool grey, cerise, black and gold, all integrated into the print-story of old photographs, roses and feathers, or used monochromatically. Sequin balloon applications and long gold fringes stood out from the mold, but it was all very Goya. In fact, it looked like Stine Goya herself (minus her pregnant stomach) stru"ed down the runway again and again, as the girls all wore red wigs with low bangs and cat eyes reminiscent of the designer’s appearance. A few figure-hugging jersey dresses and skirts brought some newness, as did the great collection of two-toned shoe with high gold soles.
Stine Goya has an ability to create clothing with a strong design identity, and one might ask, ‘why change something that works’? But it feels nice to fall deeper into Goya’s universe of playful elegance and super feminine essence.
— Shows —
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 26 —
— Shows —
SOPHISTICATED RETURN
DESIGNERS REMIX
Words — Stinne Jensen Photo — Sacha Maric
After a short break from Copenhagen Fashion Week,Designers Remix return-ed to an expectant au-dience. In collaboration with the new designer beer Copen*hagen, the show took place under an installation of hanging robes at the ‘Ny Tap’ at Carlsberg, which worked well with the long lines of the collection.
As always, designer Charlo"e Eskildsen showed a minima-listic yet complex collection of wardrobe essentials, focu-sing on dresses and suits. The overall silhoue"e was tall and slender, mixed with architectonic details, mostly on shoulders. Her usual play with asymmetry, supple draping and tailoring were very present, and so were the many styles suitable for both day- and nigh"ime. In particular, the excquisitely draped, sculpted dresses in either bright yellow or tan are worth noticing.
Colors were kept safe in black, white, tan and dark blue, with a small number of styles in bubblegum pastels and a refreshing splash of neon yellow. Only a few styles had more than one color, giving the whole collection a very calm and sophisticated look.
Only the tallest of models stru"ed down the runway, resembling strongHelmut Newton women with their longlegs, tight ponytails and strong gaze.
Eskildsen is continuously refining herstyle and perfecting the art of the dress. Although this collection seemed toshow less dresses than usual, Eskild-sen’s way of rethinking her own sty-le did not disappoint.
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DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 28 —
— Shows —
The Royal Danish Academy of Music set the mood for this di!erent and refreshing event, which brought back naïve and innocent childhood dreams. As the brand name Tabernacle
Twins suggests, the models appeared on stage in pairs, occasionally dressed similarly while moving symmetrically.
Tabernacle Twins introduced a universe that harmonized casual girliness with pastel patchwork chaos, and the result
was both elegant and humorous. Besides collared dresses and bo"omed playsuits, the collection sported shorts, billowy
dresses and short blazers with cropped sleeves, spiced up with asymmetrical features, ru!les and braids.
Further, the collection exposed a vibrant play with prints, coupled with a pastel-oriented color scale. The garments were diverse both in expression and function – balancing between
girly carnival and classic feminine.
Tabernacle Twins o!er a cheerful journey through colorful moods.
Words — Rikke Dyrholm Photo — Sacha Maric
TABERNACLE TWINS
PRINT MY DREAM
The sandbox runway in the courtyard of the Munthe plus Simonsen flagship store in central Copenhagen made sense as a venue when Danish supermodel Louise Pedersen entered in a happy, post-Woodstock spirit — with clothes to match. Always fond of ethnic influences, Naja Munthe had turned her eye to the West and interpreted the current craze for all things Native American in a collection of casual clothes still reflecting her
strong identity.
Knee-high boots with leather fringes underlined the inspiration, which was carried out with lots of long-tiered skirts and dresses in tie-dye and colors of a burning New Mexico sunset combined with earthy desert hues.
As an antidote to the romance, Munthe o!ered some sexy chic in well-cut denim shorts with silver buckles in the seams, short fi"ed leather jackets and fla"ering slim pants. Everything accessorized with hip-hugging concha leather belts to add a bit of edge.
Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen Photo — Sacha Maric
MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN
NAVAJO PRINCESS
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 30 —
— Very Important Princesses —
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Julie Christine Kühne only sends mail with fashion stamps.
Meeting of the Power-Principals: Elsebeth of Kolding Design School and Anne-Louise Sommer from The Royal Academy’s design school.
Flamboyant womenswear salesperson Kalle with avid stamp collector Benjamin.
FASHION STAMPSWords — Magnus Jorem Photographer — Thomas Degner
Photographer and burgeoning”hardcore soccer mom” Sascha and her healthy baby boy visiting Papa Silas.
Euroman’s Frede and Live Nation Denmark’s Joachim are
suckers for Soulland.
Sisters exploring Copenha-gen Fashion Week’s myriad of events?
Designer Silas Adler can’t wait to send his auntie a postcard.
Fashion Week power-player Cecilie Thorsmark even had time to pose.
The multitalented Jack from Homework and his +1 Maja.
Fashion design talent from the north, Stine Brænne, made an appearance with her famed Harry Po!er chest ta!oo.
FANS OF FASHION CLASHED WITH STAMP COLLECTORS FOR
THE LAUNCH OF THE FIRST-EVER FASHION STAMPS IN DENMARK, DESIGNED BY MALENE BIRGER
AND SOULLAND’S SILAS ADLER.
These princesses of pa!ern think non-graphic clothing is fashion suicide.
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DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 32 —
— Very Important Princesses —
Fashion writer Lo!e Freddie - with grandchild?
Princess Mary’s stylist Anja strikes the “HRH” pose in front of a stunned Maiken Winther from Costume.
BRUUNS BAZAAR FRONT ROWWords — Magnus Jorem Photographer — Thomas Degner
US Vogue’s European fashion editor Hamish Bowles ge!ing soulful with the grand old lady of Danish fashion journalism, Didder Rønlund.
The young and fresh are true believers in fashion magic.
The denim-wearing H&M fashionista on the right has her eyes set on the stars.
London-based fashion hunk / Love Magazine power player Anders S Thomsen.
Flower power nature girl meets evil empress from the future.
Eurowoman’s Pernille Theisbæk doing the champagne thang with Nicki Welsh, makeup artist. Runway reviewer extraordi-
naire Didder Rønlund with a red-hot Eva Kruse, director of Danish Fashion Institute.
Famed blogger Bryan Boy with eccentric Hawaiian shirt accomplice.
SOULLAND AND BRUUNS BAZAAR GARNERED THE ATTENTION OF MANY A
FASHION POWER PLAYER THURSDAY.
SOULLAND FRONT ROWWords — Magnus Jorem Photographer — Simon B. Mørch
Armand Limnander of The New York Times, US Vogue’s Hamish Bowles and Fantastic Man’s Gert Jonkers are members of a secret society of influential fashionistos with funny names.
Post-twink quartet Even, Per, Joakim, and Esben upset that friend Naja grabbed the only remaining goodie bag.
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DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 34 —
— Very Important Princesses —
Well-dressed a!endee.
Shaded hipsters go for the beloved over-sized Tee over short shorts look.
STINE GOYA FRONT ROWWords — Magnus Jorem Photographer — Thomas Degner
Polish fashion intern goes for a frosty spring/summer look.
Electric Lady Lab’s Stine Hjelm Jacobsen
Former model Christian Bitz is all about spreading his nutritious, healthy lifestyle to everyone else. Good luck!
This German fashion blogger sported gilded disco ball earrings.
Esben Weile Kjær, the leader of Copenhagen’s new generation of
powerful queers.
Kenni Kjær Rasmussen, high-profile fashion editor of the international haute couture catalog Out & About.
Anne Christine Persson, the heart of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Christian from Hummel with stylish female company.
Front row tension. Who will be seated next?
CITY HALL WAS FILLED WITH GOYA FANS EAGER TO SEE WHAT THE NEW
SEASON HAS IN STORE FOR THEM
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 35 —
— Very Important Princesses —
Acne’s Martin with be!er half.
Distortion Festival’s luscious Lulu enjoys a cheese snack
with her impersonator.
COVER BRUNCHWords — Magnus Jorem Photographer — Simon B. Mørch
Bente from Scoop Models seriously thought our photographer Simon was our former photographer Annemie. “How are you, Annemie?”
Probably a model.
Anywho’s Elise in Versace - for realz.
New menswear designer for Won Hundred Tobias Harboe and the woman known as Polka Dot Stacy.
Spectacular bespectacled delectable spectators.
MALLING PUBLICATION’S MAGAZINE COVER HOSTED A BRUNCH
IN THURSDAY NOON’S WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN WEATHER.
Creol Brother Mads Emil lit up the Cover brunch with his Hawaiian shirt to the embarrassment of stylist Simon Rasmussen.
Cosy Bar Socialites DJ’ed completely without fighting over the music.
Stylist Sebastián is all about fashion week
a!itude and brunching with socialites.
Model Phillip Dontmesswith-thismann and friend.
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 36 —
— Look of the day —
LOOK OF THE DAY BY
MAX FACTOR
Show — Stine Goya
THE PRETTY ONES
THE MAKE UP
The inspiration for today’s look is taken from the overall color scheme of the new Stine Goya collection, which means focusing mainly on delicate shades of brown and orange. It is all about elegant coloring and lots of texture as if the skin, eyes and
mouth are veiled in the same fabrics present in the collection.Eyebrows have been subtly brushed with color, eyes have hints of golden and pink
shades, cheeks are barely blushed — and the lips are delectably glossed. The softtone-in-tone colors make the look elegant with a feminine strength which rules out
any girlish cuteness. These are confident women. They are the pre!y ones.
THE HAIR
All the models wear hairpieces or wigs to duplicate designer Stine Goya’s own hair and color — a beautiful shoulder-length shade of deep copper red. To replicate the exact same shade of red, we recommend that you visit your local Wella hair colorist for the best result. And that you blow lots of volume and bounce into the hair using a blow
dryer, a big round brush and loads of amplifying mousse.
KEY PRODUCTS
Max Factor Xperience Weightless FoundationMax Factor Eye Brow Pencil, nr 02 Hazel
Max Factor Colour Perfection Duo Eyeshadow, Dawning Gold nr. 425 Max Factor Masterpiece Max Mascara, black
Max Factor Vibrant Curve E"ect Lip Gloss, Bubbly nr. 05 Wella Professionals Natural Volume Styling Mousse
Words — Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo — Simon B. Mørch
DANSK DAILY Friday 05.08.2011
— page 38 —
— Schedule —
SHOW SCHEDULE Friday 05.08.2011 by invitation only
10.00, NIMB, Bernstor"sgade 5, Copenhagen V
HUGO BOSS11.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Allé 22, Frederiksberg
DESIGNSKOLEN KOLDING12.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
HAANING&HTOON13.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Allé 22, Frederiksberg
R/H14.00, Borgergade 15E, Copenhagen K
IVAN GRUNDAHL15.00, CPH Vision, Øksnehallen, Bldg. 55, Staldgade 55, Copenhagen V
DESIGNERS NEST16.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
HELJE HAMRE 17.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Allé 22, Frederiksberg
MAXJENNY 18.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
DENNIS LYNGSØ19.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Allé 22, Frederiksberg
MINIMARKET20.00, Tap 2, Pasteursvej 28, Copenhagen V
BY MALENE BIRGER 21.00, Location TBA
ASTRID ANDERSEN22.00,Location TBA
HENRIK VIBSKOV
EVENTS Friday 05.08.2011
LA GLACE PRESENTS KAFFESLABARRAS 08.30-17.30, Skoubogade 3, Copenhagen K
Open to the public
DESIGNER’S NEST EXHIBITION 10.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V
CPH Vision, Building 55Open to the public
ARTREBELS CYBER LOVERS 14.00-16.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V
CPH Vision, Halmtorvet 55Open to the public
EXCHANGE STARS 18.00-21.00, Normann Copenhagen, Østerbrogade 70, Copenhagen Ø
By RIKA, Normann Copenhagen & Cover By invitation only
CPH VISION PARTY HOSTED BY MARC BY MARC JACOBS
21.00-04.00, Kødboderne 3, Copenhagen V, KB3By invitation only
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN AFTER PARTY22.00-04.00, Studiestræde 52, Copenhagen K, Pumpehuset .
By invitation only
I AM PRESENTS: A.P.A. IN COLLABORATION WITH SHOE-SHIBAR & ELITE MODELS - THE LAST I AM PARTY EVER
22.00-04.00. Nikolajs Plads 10, Copenhagen K.Nikolajs Kirke
DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN FASHION WEEK PARTY 23.00-05.00, Zen,Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K,
FASHION FESTIVALFriday 05.08.2011
VEET STILETTO RUN17.30-19.00, Amagertorv, Copenhagen K
Copenhagen Fashion Festival and Veet are thrilled to an-nounce the first-ever fashion week stile!o race in central
Copenhagen. Only stile!os are eligible.
FASHION NIGHT OUT18.00-21.00, Various places around Copenhagen, check out
copenhagenfashionfestival.com
Call your friends and seize the night Friday when Copenha-gen Fashion Festival culminates with Fashion Night Out, a late afternoon to after-hours shopping and partying extravaganza!
AN A-MUSE-ING TALK BY PETER JENSEN 16.30-17.30, Designmuseum Danmark,
Bredgade 68, Copenhagen K
This Fashion Festival, Design Museum Denmark presents an exhibition of Jensen’s work.
GARDEN STREET PARTY18.00-22.00, Kronprinsensgade, Copenhagen K
At the heart of Copenhagen lies the charming shopping street Kronprinsensgade, filled with fashion boutiques and other great stores. This is the place to be on Fashion Night
Out, at least if you have a “thing” for great fashion, music, and food.
SUNGLASSES AND SUMMER DRINKS18.00-23.00, Ørgreen, Store Regnegade 1, Copenhagen K,
from 21.00 Zoo Bar, Sværtegade 6, Copenhagen K
Head to Fashion Night Out in Ørgreen as the store stays open till 21.00 hrs, and win a pair of enviable sunglasses
while enjoying a cool glass of champagne.
SNEAK PEAK AT THE SPRING/SUMMER SEASON19.00-21.00, Acne Studio, Gammel Mønt 10,
Copenhagen K
The pleasure of your company is requested for a sneak peek at Acne’s Spring/Summer 2012 Resort Collection at Acne
Studio Friday night.
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