Barbies sitting in Amritapuri Ashram, Kerala 2012. Photos Borut Senk Copyright A. Auderset

Adriana Auderset in Amritapuri, Kerala, India February 2012.

This trip to Kerala, India, was blessed by the Goods. I escaped for a few weeks the cold Geneva weather. This was my sixt trip to India and once more I felt all the magic and charisma of Bharat.. I flew to Trivandrum where I arrived early morning. I took a taxi to Amritapuri, to the Ashram of Mata Amritanandamayi, Ammachi and popularly known as "the hugging saint". She is attracting Westerners as well as Indians by the thousands. They all flock to her Ashram for guidance and support on their spiritual journey. The first week I felt absolutely exhausted and had great difficulty adapting to Ashram life, the heat and dirt. Last time I went there was in 2004 a year before the tsunami hit Kerala. Since then I did not feel the need to go back there. Why do so many people feel attracted to go to these Ashrams, self proclaimed Baghawans, Guruʼs and Saints?

I kept asking myself why I came back to these austere conditions. In the room I felt like being in a prison cell; it was very small, crowded and dirty. The tiny rooms have to be shared between 3-4 women, in the A+B building. I you arrive as a signle woman all you get is a space on the floor where you can put your plastic matress. Couples get good rooms in the new E- building, with beds. Single men also share rooms but in newer buildings which are a lot cleaner and bigger. Wealthy Indian guests have suites overlooking the ocean or Backwaters. I saw it with my own eyes. Many Westerners donated large amounts of money. With Euro 30ʻ000 donation they have the right to use a privat room when they come. The room remains ashram property. Many have paid and are on a waiting list to get a room whenever they will be ready, which could be in 2-3 years or never..

Ammaʼs PR team and the media promote a portrait of sweetness and universal love. It is a great priviledge to be close to Amma. A small circle of Swamis watch over her. Over the years the ashram has grown and become wealthy; they now own large properties; educational institutions, hospitals orphanages and a fleet of about 3000 cars. Amma’s Web site says, that In July, 2005, the United Nations awarded Amma with “Special U.N. Consultative Status.” She is reportedly one of 25 core leaders in the United Nations Parliament of World Religions. Amma’s Web site contains over a dozen pages extolling the humanitarian work of the U.N. One page compares the U.N.’s “Millennium Goals” with Amma’s goals, which are word-for-word identical. Click here to view both documents.

The Ashram is growing, new plots of land are purchased and building is going on continuously, to accomodate the ever growing number of visitors and devotees. There were over a thousand Westerners there. Amma keeps them busy and helps them to spend their money at the Ashram. It is compulsory for Westerners to do 2 hours per day of «Seva work» so called selfless service. The Westerners cut vegetables, cook, wash pots, do composting and cleaning. They pay for their food in the Westerners canteen. Ayurveda is famous in all Kerala. The ashram is selling Panchakarma treatments to the Westerners; creating huge income. Astrology is another source of income. The Ashram has Indian and Western astrologers who charge for their reading and then recommend to buy pujas; to influence the planets. These pujas are very expensive, creating huge income.

Adriana in Kerala

Adriana with barbie dolls in Amritapuri, Adriana with barbie dolls & Shiva

Adriana with barbie dolls in Amritapuri Ashram garden, India 2012

Varkala, Kollam, Amritapuri

Ashram Life gets very intense; so many people so little space, so much heat and dirt. So many Ashram rules to follow; very stiff dress codes and so much control. After 2 weeks my blood pressure was so hight that I needed to get away. The nearest place to escape was Varkala beach; just a 2 hours drive away. I found someone to share a taxi and off we went. In Varkala I found a lovely guest house, clean, comfotable and spacious. I enjoyed the privacy of a single room, the sunshine, warm weather, the blue sea, the sand beach, the waves of the Ocean, the people. I also enjoyed the Ayurvedic oil massages and the delicious fresh Indian food. I savoured every minute and relaxed.

Time to say good buy to Varkala, to go back to the Ashram. My barbie dolls and my bags were waiting there for me. I wanted to go to the local dressmaker again to have more silk dresses stiched. We left Varkala in the morning. We drove to Kollam with a taxi and then boarded on the Government boat that took us through the Backwaters. It was a very laid back journey; we arrived at Amritapuri after lunch. We crossed over the bridge that had been built after the Tsunami to evacuate people, as the ashram lies between the Ocean and the Backwaters.

The room they gave me this time was even smaller, darker, stickyer and filthyer than the first one.. I could not sleep in this rat whole; I felt so sticky and was lacking breath. In the morning I had flee bites under my arm pits. I went swimming in the Ashram pool; I wanted to cool down my angry emotions. After another sleepless nigth I went to the accomodationn office requesting another room. I got a room in E-building with view over the Backwaters. They charched me for two persons. Finally I was able to breathe and open my bags. I continued my «Seva» work as professor «golden fish» teaching swimming at the pool. Noone objected to that. I now have some grateful students.

However I still did not feel the same happyness and freedom as I felt in Varkala. Therefore I went back there for another week before leaving India. Again I had the most woenderful time. I was able to reflect about my observations during the time I spent at the Amritapuri Ashram. What it boils down to me is that they only want money and control. So there are the many lost souls there, with nowehre else to go and afraid that they could be kicked out if they did not follow and stricly apply all the rules and regulations. I had nothing to fear, so whenever on of the crocks, reptiles or angry old Western nun attacked me I laughed at them or told them to repeat their mantra. Thank Good that I have studied Vipassana Insight meditation in the 80ies, observing the breath and sensations. So I do not need to numb myself by Mantras.

During my first two weeks I met some good people like the photographer, Borut Senk, a realy fun and cool guy. Thanks to him you can enjoy these lovely pics. He took photos of me with Amrita receiving a barbie doll. Her mother gave us permission to take this pics. It is strictly forbidden to take pics or videos in the Ashram. To me a pic is worth a thousand words. Little Amrita was born in the Ashram and lives there. She looks frightened.

I had brought barbie dolls with me from Switzerland, which I thought would find new mothers in India. I took some silk with me to stich them new saries. This small barbie project of mine gave me so much joy, strenght, love and fun, as well as deep insight that I feel I wanted to take the time to write in order to share it with you. You may ask yourself why I took white Barbie dolls, to give to little Indian girls? There are so many controversies and criticisms; about her. She celebrated her 50th anniversary and has become a cultural item. All this due to extensive marketing. Ammas world wide mission sells Amma dolls for Euro 200 representing herself. Adults pray to these dolls to get help and enlightenment.

There is an insider and outsider doctrine which I will write about on my next chapter. For outsider Amma is a great humanitarian and social worker; for insiders and devotes she is worshipped as the Goodess Kali.

Top pic shows the construction and second a view from the Ashram over the Backwaterof and the educational institutions; then the Ashram elephant Lakshmi.

Upon arrival all international visitors get a copy of the code of conduct and ashram rules. Many do notʼs and no noʼs. Do not eat outside the Ashram; avoid contact with the Village. Before initiating contact you should seek permission at the International Office. Only ashram appointees are allowed to take photos, video or audio recordings of the Ashram premises. I was told that high amounts of entry fees whera applied; so Ammaʼs educational insitutions; that her education is only affordable by the very rich Indians.

When Lakshmi comes for her after-noon bananas no one objects of taking photos of her. Amma’s disciples seem to draw their power from hugs, dolls, mantra obeisance and a kind of group euphoria through repeated retreats, rather than from the core of their own being. To get close to her one needs to invest lots of time and money. Personalyty cult and brainwashing is very subtle. Fear, scarcity and paranoia is created.

I have observed Amma and her entourage for nearly 20 years. I am a freedom loving spirit searching to awake to the truth.

My sincere blessings to all of you; may you also be blessed by all the holy cows and most holy cowshit of India. Yours Adriana Auderset