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1 13. A Short History of Indonesia Monument makers of Central Java WC 3627 Basrelief of a Sailendra king and queen, Borobudur Some historians suggest that in the dying days of Funan some of its ruling élite left the mainland and established themselves on the great plain of Central Java. Theirs was not the first kingdom in the region, another dynasty called the Sanjayas preceeding them by several generations. The two great houses ruled their districts in peaceful co existence as good neighbours for a long time but in the 9 th Century they fell out and went to war with each other. The outcome was that the winners, the Sanjayas thereafter dominated the Kedu plain while the prince of the losers, Balaputradeva, as we have already seen, fled to Srivijaya where he eventually became the ruler of that great maritime empire. The aristocrats who came to Java from Funan brought with them two titles. They were the first rulers in Java to use the title Maharaja which, in Sanskrit means literally “great king” but implies “king of kings” or a king who rules over other, lesser kings. The second title and on this rests much of the argument that they came from Funan where the title had been used for generations was “king of the mountains” or Sailendra 1 , the name by which their dynasty was known in Java and even in Srivijaya where, even before Balapurtradeva’s accession, was a name held in great respect and to which the rulers allied themselves through marriage and other strategic pacts. 1 Actually Sailendravamsa meaning Kings or Lords of the Mountains. The origin and significance of the term is disputed by scholars. Coedès, for example, quoted an inscription from Kuk Preah Kot (period 610-635 AD) in which the king was called Sailaraja (Coedès, G: “On the origin of the Sailendra dynasty of Indonesia”, Journal of the Greater India Society I: 61–70 1934 (pp 61-70). See Briggs, LP: The Origin of the Sailendra Dynasty: Present Status of the Question, http://www.scribd.com/doc/10868202/Origins-of-Sailendra-Dynasty-Malay-Sumatra- Sriwijaya.

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13.  A  Short  History  of  Indonesia    

Monument  makers  of  Central  Java      

WC  3627    

 Bas-­relief  of  a  Sailendra  king  and  queen,  Borobudur  

 Some  historians  suggest  that  in  the  dying  days  of  Funan  some  of  its  ruling  élite  left  the  mainland  and  established  themselves  on  the  great    plain  of  Central    Java.    Theirs  was  not  the  first  kingdom  

in  the  region,  another  dynasty  called  the  Sanjayas  preceeding  them  by  several  generations.  The  two  great  houses  ruled  their  districts  in  peaceful  co-­‐existence  as  good  neighbours  for  a  long  time  but  in  the  9th  Century  they  fell  out  and  went  to  war  with  each  other.  The  outcome  was  that  the  winners,  the  Sanjayas  thereafter  dominated  the  Kedu  plain  while  the  prince  of  the  losers,  Balaputradeva,  as  we  have  already  seen,  fled  to  Srivijaya  where  he  eventually  became  the  ruler  of  that  great  maritime  empire.    The  aristocrats  who  came  to  Java  from  Funan  brought  with  them  two  titles.  They  were  the  first  rulers  in  Java  to  use  the  title  Maharaja  which,  in  Sanskrit  means  literally  “great  king”  but  implies  “king  of  kings”  or  a  king  who  rules  over  other,  lesser  kings.  The  second  title  ⎯  and  on  this  rests  much  of  the  argument  that  they  came  from  Funan  where  the  title  had  been  used  for  generations  ⎯  was  “king  of  the  mountains”  or  Sailendra1,  the  name  by  which  their  dynasty  was  known  in  Java  and  even  in  Srivijaya  where,  even  before  Balapurtradeva’s  accession,  was  a  name  held  in  great  respect  and  to  which  the  rulers  allied  themselves  through  marriage  and  other  strategic  pacts.    

                                                                                               1 Actually Sailendravamsa meaning Kings or Lords of the Mountains. The origin and significance of the term is disputed by scholars. Coedès, for example, quoted an inscription from Kuk Preah Kot (period 610-635 AD) in which the king was called Sailaraja (Coedès, G: “On the origin of the Sailendra dynasty of Indonesia”, Journal of the Greater India Society I: 61–70 1934 (pp 61-70). See Briggs, LP: The Origin of the Sailendra Dynasty: Present Status of the Question, http://www.scribd.com/doc/10868202/Origins-of-Sailendra-Dynasty-Malay-Sumatra-Sriwijaya.

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 Old  Mataram  and  the  Sanjayas    When  the  Sailendras  came  to  Java  they  intruded  upon  an  existing  kingdom  called  Mataram2.  Although  it  might  have  had  an  earlier  beginning,  the  first  epigraphic  record  was  dated  732  AD  and  recorded      

…the  erection  of  a  linga  by  a  king  Sanjaya  of  Mataram  in  Kunjarakunja  in  the  island  of  Java  ‘rich  in  grain  and  gold  mines’.  As  Java  produced  no  gold,  attempts  have  been  made  to  identify  the  name  Kunjarakunja  with  some  place  in  the  Malay  peninsula  but  Stutterheim  has  proved  that  it  is  in  fact  the  name  of  the  district  in  which  Sanjaya  erected  his  sanctuary3.    

 Very  little  is  known  about  these  early  rulers.  It  is  clear  they  were  Saivite  Hindus  ⎯  hence  the  linga  and  commemorative  inscription  ⎯  and  that  they    later  overthrew  the  Sailendras  and  left  a  monumental  heritage  as  great  as  their  former  overlords.  Why  they  accepted  this  subordinate  position  in  the  first  place  is  not  known  although  one  theory  suggests  that  the  Sailendras  arrived  in  Java  already  backed  by  the  power  and  reputation  of  Srivijaya    Although  later  writers  attributed  great  victories  to  King  Sanjaya  in  Bali,  Sumatra  and  even  as  far  away  as  Cambodia  and  the  borders  of  China,  his  only  established  claim  to  power  was  this  candi  dedicated  in  732.  In  Java  at  that  time  there  were  many  rakryans,  a  rakryan  being  more  or  less  a  “petty  king”.  The  mandala  of  power  among  these  rakryans  was  an  ever  shifting  pattern  but  

when  one  succeeded  in  establishing  greater  power  than  the  others  over  a  wider  area,  he  proclaimed  this  by  building  a  candi,  a  monumental  tomb  dedicated  ⎯  as  Hall  said  ⎯  to  the  deity  with  whom  he  chose  to  be  identified  in  life  and  united  in  death.  The  chandi  bearing  the  Saivite  symbol  of  the  linga,  which  he  erected  in  732,  was  the  outward  sign  and  manifestation  of  his  claims  to  overlordship4.  

 There  has  been  great  confusion  over  the  kings  of  the  Sanjaya  dynasty,  confusion  caused  by  a  king  list  compiled  by  Balitung,  the  4th  in  his  line  in  which  some  Sailendras  also  seem  to  have  been  included.  These  days  it  is  believed  that  Balitung’s  list  is  one  of  the  rulers  of  Central  Java  in  general,  not  only  of  the  Sanjaya  dynasty  so,  by  excluding  the  Sailendras,  a  succession  of  10  

                                                                                               2 It is important to distinguish this earlier Hinduised kingdom from the Sultanate of Mataram which existed into Dutch colonial times. 3 Hall, DG: A History of South-East Asia, Macmillan Student Editions, 3rd Ed. 1968, p.46. 4 Ibid, p. 47.

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rulers  remains  in  this,  the  Hindu-­‐Javanese  manifestation  of  Mataram5.  Not  all  of  these  ruled  in  Central  Java  or  indeed,  under  the  dynastic  name  of  Sanjaya:  the  8th  of  the  kings  listed,  called  Mpu  Sindok  (929-­‐947)  is  thought  to  have  married  the  daughter6  of    the  king  Wawa  (924-­‐929)  and  though  this  alliance,  ascended  the  throne.  For  some  unknown  reason  Mpu  Sindok  moved  the  Sanjayan  kraton  to  East  Java  where  he  established  a  new  capital  on  the  Brantas  River.  The  name  of  the  kingdom  was  also  changed,  from  Mataram  to  Medang  and  that  of  the  dynasty  to  the  Isyana  Dynasty.  Despite  these  changes  of  name,  the  old  ones  are  often  still  used.      One  reason  advanced  as  to  why  Mataram  moved  to  East  Java  is  that  there  was  a  cataclysmic  eruption  of  Gunung  Merapi,  the  very  active  volcano  near  Jogja.  Another  reason  also  given  is  that  the  people  actually  left  the  region  and  emigrated  to  the  east  because  they  were  tired  of  the  heavy  demands  on  their  labour  by  the  kings  for  the  building  of  the  monuments  we  see  in  the  region  today.  It  is  important  to  realise  that  the  common  people  were  not  feudal  serfs  as  in  Europe  of  that  time  but  independent  of  the  ruler  although  they  owed  him  a  duty  of  labour  when  called  upon.  This  theory  contends  that  Mpu  Sindok  and  his  kraton  simply  followed  his  subjects!  It  is  noticeable  that  no  monuments  on  the  scale  of  Central  Java  were  ever  built  in  the  east  of  the  island  after  this  exodus.    The  Sailendras    DGE  Hall  in  his  1968  revision  of  his  A  History  of  South-­East  Asia  makes  the  point  that  up  until  that  date  very  little  was  known  of  the  Sailendras  in  Java:  

 Until  recently  nothing  was  known  for  certain  as  to  the  identity  of  the  Sailendras.  Of  the  dynasty  of  “kings  of  the  mountain”,  responsible  for  the  erection  of  the  glorious  Buddhist  monuments  of  the  late  eighth  and  early  ninth  centuries  in  Central  Java,  the  questing  historian  could  find  a  vast  amount  of  theory  and  disappointingly  little  fact.”7  

     A  Bodhisattva  Avalokiteś-­vara  in  the  Sailendra  style8  

 The  earliest  mention  of  the  Sailendras  in  Java  is  an  inscription  found  at  Kalasan  in  Central  Java  dated  778  AD  

                                                                                               5 http://indahnesia.com/indonesia/HIFKIN/kingdom_of_mataram.php 6 Sri Parameswari Dyah Kbi. Mpu Sindok had two wives. Sri Parameswari was the daughter of Dyah Wawa, the last king of Mataram while it remained in Central Java. 7 Op. cit. p.47 8 Photo from BB Utomo article, see below.

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which  commemorates  the  dedication  of  a  shrine  to  the  Buddhist  saint  Tara.  The  name  appears  again  in  inscriptions  found  ⎯  among  others  ⎯    at  Kelurak  (dated  782)  and  Karentengah  (792).  There  is  also  an  earlier  mention  on  a  double  sided  prasasti  found  on  the  Malay  peninsula  at  Ligor  and  dated  to  775  AD9.  This  last  has  been  the  subject  of  a  long-­‐running  debate  by  historians,  the  issue  being  whether  or  not  the  two  sides  referred  to  the  same  king  or  different  rulers.  The  debate  over  the  identification  of  the  Ligor  stele  was  summarised  in  an  address  to  a  conference  in  Malysia  by  Bambang  Budi  Utomo  of  the  Indonesian  National  Centre  for  Archaeological  Research  in  1974  and  although  he  acknowledges  much  is  still  speculative,  I  shall  here  add  some  of  his  findings.      Briefly,  he  traces  the  descent  of  the  Sailendras,  identifying  persons  mentioned  in  the  inscriptions  by  matching  the  often  many  and  varied  honorifics  and  styles  attributed  to  them.  From  this  analysis  he  concludes  that  the  earliest  rulers  of  Sailendra  in  Mataram  were  (in  chronological  order):      

Dapunta Selendra (? – 674 AD), Queen Simo (674-703 AD), Mandiminak (703-710 AD), Sanna (710-717 AD) Sanjaya (717-746 AD), Panamkaran (746-784 AD).

 He  was  also  able  to  confirm  that  Balaputradeva,  whose  accession  to  the  throne  of  Srivijaya  remained  a  puzzle,  was  able  to  do  so  when  he  fled  Java  for  Palembang  because  he  was  the  grandson  of  a  ruler  of  Srivijaya,  Dhamasetu,  through  his  mother  Tara  and,  given  the  operation  of  cognatic  kinship,  therefore  qualified  for  the  role.  This  analysis  also  throws  more  detailed  light  on  the  reason  Balaputradeva  left  Mataram.  His  Javanese  grandfather,  Rakay  Panamkaran  ruled  in  Mataram  for  38  years,  quite  a  long  reign  in  those  days.  His  son,  Samaratunga  had  two  wives,  each  of  which  had  a  child.  The  first  wife,  had  a  daughter  who  was  the  crown  princess,  Pramoddawarddhani;  the  second  wife  Tara,  the  daughter  of  Dharmaseta  of  Srivijaya,  had  a  son,  Balaputradeva.  This  made  Bala  the  second  in  line  of  succession  ⎯  indeed,  his  name  means  “younger  son  of  god”,  given  that  the  “god”  in  this  case  was  his  father,  the  king.      Samaratunga  married  his  daughter,  Bala’s  elder  sister,  to  Pikatan  who  was  the  son  of  Rakarayan  Patapan  Pu  Palar  of  the  Sanjaya  dynasty.  When  Bala’s  father  Samaratunga  died,  his  son-­‐in-­‐law  Pikatan  became  ruler  of  the  Sailendra  kingdom  in  Central  Java.    Bala  found  this  unacceptable  so  he  rebelled  against                                                                                                  9 Among others: see the opening paragraph of an address by Bambang Budi Utomo: The Homeland of the Sailandra Family, Paper for the “Trans Border Seminar on Kuala Lumpur”, Malaysia, 4-10 Sept. 2004. Full text online at www.budpar.go.id/filedata/2929_1044-iiTheSailendras.pdf

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his  brother-­‐in-­‐law,  only  to  be  defeated  at  a  place  now  known  as  Bukit  Ratu  Baka  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Prambanan  complex  and  related  in  the  Sivagrha  prasasti  dated  Novermber  12,  856  AD.      The  pedigree  of  Balaputradeva  and  the  Sailendra  and  Srivijayan  rulers  according  to  Bambang  Budi  Utomo  [NB:  Rakai  Panamkaran’s  regnal  dates  should  read  746  –  782]10.  

 Much  of  this  most  recent  suggestion  as  to  what  happened  to  make  the  Sailendra  prince  Balaputradeva  king  of  Srivijaya  remains  in  contention.  Other,  earlier  writers  indicate  that  in  their  reckoning,  Bala  would  have  been  too  

young  to  have  challenged  Pikatan  for  the  throne  of  Mataram  and  was  probably  taken  to  Palembang  where  he  grew  to  maturity  before  returning  to  try  and  take  back  what  he  considered  his  rightful  heritage.  Evidence  from  many  more  prasasti  will  be  needed  before  the  mysteries  of  these  shadowy  kings  are  unravelled  to  everyone’s  content.    The  Monuments  of  Central  Java  

While  the  rulers  of  Mataram  maybe  shadowy  figures  in  the  history  of  Central  Java,  the  monuments  they  left  behind  are  very  real  evidence  of  their  wealth  and  power.  Although  there  are  many  monuments  

scattered  over  the  landscape  there,  they  can  be  roughly  classified  into  two  groups  corresponding  to  the  two  dynasties,  the  Sailendras  and  the  Sanjayas.  

These  are  respectively  Borobudur  and  Prambanam.  

Borobudur,  Mendut  and  Pawon  Borobudur11    

 The  gigantic  stupa,  Borobudur,  is  rightly  world-­‐famous  but  when  built  by  the  Sailendras  in  the  years  778  to  842  AD,  two  

other  buildings  were  conceived  as  part  of  a  huge  processional  way  connecting  to  the  stupa  at  its  end.  These  are  Candi  Mendut  and  Candi  Pawon,  of  which                                                                                                  10 Ibid, p.8. 11 Photo: Jill Gocher - National Geographic

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Mendut  is  the  oldest  of  the  three.  This  makes  these  magnificent  monuments  300  years  older  than  Angkor  Wat  in  Cambodia  and  four  centuries  older  than  the  great  Gothic  cathedrals  of  Europe.    

Borobudur,  Mendut  and  Pawon  and  their  mutual  relationship12     In  the  70  or  so  years  it  took  to  build  Borobudur  alone,  more  than  55  cubic  meters  of  stone  were  quarried,  moved  and  assembled  over  the  top  of  a  small  hill.  The  entire  stupa  is  123m  

square  and  42m  high.  DGE  Hall  describes  Borobudur  as    

…the  highest  expression  of  the  artistic  genius  of  the  Sailendra  period  [and]  is  utterly  unlike  any  other  Javanese  monument.  It  is  not  a  temple  with  an  interior,  but  an  immense  stupa  in  the  form  of  stone  terraces  covering  the  upper  part  of  a  natural  hill,  on  the  top  of  which  stands  the  central  stupa…  To  traverse  the  whole  distance  through  the  galleries  up  to  the  summit  involves  a  walk  of  over  three  miles.  The  walls  of  the  galleries  on  both  sides  are  adorned  with  bas-­relief  sculptures  illustrating  Mahayanist  texts.  They  run  to  thousands.  In  addition  there  are  400  statues  of  the  Buddha.  The  base  has  a  series  of  reliefs  depicting  the  effects  of  good  and  evil  deeds  in  daily  life  producing  karma.  But  these  are  now  covered  by  a  broad  casement  of  stonework…..13  

Over  13,000  cubic  meters  of  stone  were  used  to  cover  up  this  lower  section  of  the  monument.  It  seems  puzzling  to  us  that  the  huge  amount  of  labour  and  artistic  genius  which  went  into  creating  this  part  of  Borobudur  should  be  deliberately  obscured  but  apparently  this  had  a  symbolic  intent,  hiding  the  

worldly  level  to  focus  attention  on  the  lessons  of  the  upper  gallery.  Parts  of  this  basement  were  uncovered  by  the  Japanese  during  their  occupation  in  1942  and  these  have  been  left  for  visitors  to  see.      Buddhist  monks  praying  at  Borobudur    during  the  annual  Vesak  ceremony  

 Borobudur  was  in  use  for  only  about  200  

                                                                                               12  The  map  is  a  coloured  version  after  Moens,  JL:  Barabudur,  Mendut  and  Pawon  and  their  mutual  relationship;    1950  (Mark  Long,  translator);  www.borobudur.tv/Barabudur_Mendut_Pawon.pdf    13 Op.cit. p. 47

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years  and  then  left  to  be  covered  over  by  jungle  and  volcanic  ash.  In  1815  Sir  Stamford  Raffles  (of  Singapore  fame)14  had  Dutch  archaeologist  HC  Cornelius  clear  and  then  excavate  the  site.  After  the  defeat  of  the  French,  Java  was  restored  to  Dutch  control  in  1816.  In  1907  to  1911,  the  Dutch  undertook  a  restoration  of  Borobudur    and  most  recently,  UNESCO  carried  out  an  even  more  massive  restoration  1973  to  1983.  It  is  now  on  the  UNESCO  World  Heritage  list.  

   

Borobudur  in  elevation  and  bird’s  eye  view  showing  design  of  the  stupa   It  is  commonly  said  that  Borobudur    was  built  by  Samaratungga,  the  father  of  Balaputradeva  and  the  last  of  the  Sailendras  in  Mataram  but  it  seems  probable,  given  the  more  recent  king  list  and  their  regnal  years,  that  the  complex  was  begun  by  Rakay  Panamkaran,  Bala’s  grandfather  and  completed  by  Samaratungga.  Although  the  language  is  slightly  quaint  (probably  a  translation15),  the  most  succinct  description  I  could  find  of  the  layout  of  the  stupa  and  its  intention  as  a  Buddhist  teaching  “manual  in  stone”  was  from  a  Blog  by  “g9”16  extolling  the  benefits  of  a  visit  to  Jogjakarta:  

Borobudur  is  constructed  as  a  ten-­terraces  building…  The  first  six  terraces  are  in  square  form,  two  upper  terraces  are  in  circular  form,  and  on  top  of  them  is  the  terrace  where  Buddha  statue  is  located  facing  

westward.  Each  terrace  symbolizes  the  stage  of  human  life.  In  line  with  of  Buddha  Mahayana,  anyone  who  intends  to  reach  the  level  of  Buddha's  must  go  through  each  of  those  life  stages.    The  base  of  Borobudur,  called  Kamadhatu,  symbolizes  human  being  

                                                                                               14 After the British annexation of Java in 1811 Lord Minto, then Governor-General of India, appointed Raffles Lt. Governor of the island where he remained until recalled in 1816. His many reforms included land tenure and a revision of the legal system. He also inaugurated the Botanical Gardens at Bogor and is responsible for the Indonesians driving on the left. 15 I am not sure if the author is Indonesian or Japanese. 16 See g9vacation.blogspot.com/2007/06/borobudur.html

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that  are  still  bound  by  lust.  The  upper  four  stories  are  called  Rupadhatu  symbolizing  human  beings  that  have  set  themselves  free  from  lust  but  are  still  bound  to  appearance  and  shape.  On  this  terrace,  Buddha  effigies  are  placed  in  open  space;  while  the  other  upper  three  terraces  where  Buddha  effigies  are  confined  in  domes  with  wholes  are  called  Arupadhatu,  symbolizing  human  beings  that  have  been  free  from  lust,  appearance  and  shape.  The  top  part  that  is  called  Arupa  symbolizes  nirvana,  where  Buddha  is  residing17.  

     

Candi  Mendut  Candi  Mendut,  the  oldest  of  the  three  in  the  Borobudur-­‐Pawon-­‐Mendut  complex,  is  situated  about  3  km  east  of  Borobudur.  Like  Borobudur,  Mendut  was  built  principally  by  Samaratungga.  It  is  26.4  metres  tall  and  faces  west  ⎯  ie,  towards  Candi  Pawon  and  Borobudur  ⎯  and  originally  had  a  small  ante-­‐chamber  in  front  but  that  and  parts  of  the  roof  are  now  missing.  The  main  chamber  contains  three  large,  beautifully  carved  statues,  one  of  which  is  a  3-­‐metre  high  Dhyani  Buddha  Vairocana  which  was  meant  to  liberate  devotees  from  bodily  khama.    On  either  side  of  the  Buddha  are  Boddhisatvas,  the  one  on  the  left  serving  to  liberate  one  from  speech,  the  other,  from  thought.  The  entire  temple  is  richly  adorned  with  carvings,  one  of  a  Buddhist  teaching  about  animals.                                                                                                  17 http://g9vacation.blogspot.com/2007/06/borobudur.html

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Candi  Mendut  and  (r)  interior  showing  Buddha  with  2  Boddhisatvas  

Candi  Pawon    

Candi  Pawon  

 Pawon  was  built  mid-­‐way  between  Mendut  and  Borobudor  along  what  seems  to  have  been  a  processional  way.  Commonly  called  the  “jewel  of  Javanese  temple  architecture”,  Pawon  is  richly  decorated  on  its  outer  walls  with  bas-­‐reliefs  of  boddihisattvas  and  taras  and  a  beautiful  relief  of  a  “tree  of  life”  or  kalpataru.      The  kalpataru  relief  at  Candi  Pawon.  

 Inside,  Pawon  is  very  different.  The  chamber  is  empty  and  plain  with  small  rectangular  windows  piercing  the  walls.  In  the  centre  is  a  square  basin,  the  reason  for  which  is  unknown.  However,  there  is  some  evidence  that  Pawon  was  intended  as  a  tomb,  the  name  in  Javanese  meaning  nowadays  a  kitchen,  but  suggesting  

something  to  do  with  ashes  in  the  past.    Prambanan,  the  crowning  glory  of  the  Sanjayas.  Prambanan  was  the  last  great  religious  monument  built  in  Central  Java.    The  king  Rakai  Pikatan  is  said  to  have  built  Prambanan  to  celebrate  his  victory  over  Balaputradeva  but  the  date  given  for  the  completion  of  the  monumental  

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complex  is  856  AD  which  places  it  in  the  reign  of  Pikatan’s  son,  Kayuwani  (850-­‐898  AD).  Now  it  is  important  to  know  that  Pikatan  did  not  die  but  rather  resigned  his  throne  in  favour  of  Kayuwani  in  850  and,  taking  the  name  Jatiningrat,  retired  to  a  hermitage  to  lead  a  spiritual  life  of  contemplation.      

Entrance  to  the  Prambanan  complex  

 This  is  important  because  it  established  a  tradition  so  powerful  that  another  great  king,  Airlangga  of  East  Java,  did  the  same  thing  in  1045  AD,  even  adopting  the  same  name.  Both  kings  passed  through  four  stages  in  their  lives,  

starting  with  one  of  asceticism;  next,  of  warfare;  then  of  victory  and  rule;  and  finally,  of  retreat  and  contemplation18.    Prambanan  was  deserted  only  a  few  years  

after  its  completion  when  the  people  and  the  court  moved  to  East  Java.  Some  historians  suggest  that  an  eruption  of  Gunung  Merapi  covered  the  fields  with  volcanic  ash  and  the  ensuing  famine  forced  the  people  to  move  away.  Personally  I  prefer  the  suggestion  that  the  heavy  burden  placed  on  the  

ordinary  people  to  build  these  huge  monuments  caused  them  to  go  elsewhere  and  the  court  had  no  alternative  but  to  follow.    Nandi,  the  steed  of  Siva19  

 There  are  8  main  buildings  in  the  Prambanan  complex.  The  three  main  ones  face  east  and  are  aligned  north-­‐south.  The  

middle  and  tallest  candi,  the  Candi  Siva  Mahadeva,  is  47m  (155ft)  high;  on  either  side  are  the  Candi  Vishnu  and  Candi  Brahma.  Among  the  smaller  temples  are  those  for  the  so-­‐called  celestial  vehicles,  nandi,  the  bull  for  Siva;  hamsa,  the  goose  for  Brahma;  and  garuda,  the  bird,  for  Vishnu.    The  Dutch  began  reconstruction  of  the  temple  complex  in  1918.  It  was  completed,  as  far  as  possible  because  much  of  the  stone  had  been  stolen  over  

                                                                                               18 For a discussion of this tradition and the events leading up to Pikatan’s “retirement”, read DGE Hall, op. cit. pp 49-51. 19 Photo: http://whattaworld.wordpress.com/2009/08/23/prambanan-and-sunset-at-parangtritis-beach/

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the  centuries  for  other  buildings  elsewhere,  in  1953.  However,  an  earthquake  in  2006  has  once  more  damaged  much  of  the  complex20.    The  Candi  Siva  temple  Mahadeva  

 The  Candi  Siva  ,  is  also  popularly  known  as  the  Loro  Jonggrang,  which  means  "slender  maiden".  This  derives  from  a  local  legend  which  has  been  imposed,  not  only  on  the  Siva  temple  but  often  on  the  whole  complex21.    A  travel  guide  re-­‐tells  the  legend:  

   In  the  legend,  a  maiden,  who  happened  to  be  a  Javanese  princess,  was  wooed  by  a  suitor  that  she  isn't  interested  [in].  To  win  her  hand,  she  gave  him  the  Herculean  task  to  build  a  thousand  temples  within  one  night.  The  man  used  magical  powers  to  call  on  genies  to  help  him  with  the  task.  So  the  genies  started  putting  up  temples  in  the  night.  However,  she  has  no  reason  for  him  to  succeed.  When  it  appeared  certain  that  a  thousand  temples  would  be  completed,  she  sabotaged  him  by  pounding  the  rice  mortar,  confusing  the  genies  into  thinking  that  dawn  is  arriving,  and  causing  them  to  flee.  By  then  999  temples  had  been  built.  Enraged  by  her  action,  the  man  built  the  final  temple.  And  then  he  issued  a  curse  on  the  maiden,  which  turned  her  into  stone.  Local  belief  identify  her  as  the  statue  in  the  northern  chamber  of  the  temple.  What  is  interesting  is  that  the  statue  identified  as  Loro  Jonggrang  is  actually  that  of  Durga,  Siva's  consort.  Hence,  the  local  people,  who  have  long  discarded  Hinduism,  have  lost  their  understanding  of  it,  and  have  reproduced  their  own  tale  to  explain  the  figures  within  the  Prambanan  temple.22      

Other  temples  of  the  Region  Briefly,  there  are  many,  many  temples  and  other  ruins  of  religious  complexes  in  Central  Java.    Part  of  the  Sewu  complex    

 For  example  ⎯  just  to  mention  three  ⎯    not  far  from  Prambanan  is  Candi  Sewu  which  is  

actually  the  second  oldest  Buddhist  temple  after  Borobudur  in  Central  Java.                                                                                                  20 See http://breakingnews.iol.ie/news/?c=ireland&jp=cwgbauidkfsn 21 This avoids confusing the temple complex with the local town also called Prambanan. 22 http://www.asiaexplorers.com/indonesia/prambanan_loro_jonggrang.htm

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Although  only  the  remains  of  257  temples  exist,  the  Javanese  name  translates  to  “a  thousand  temples”  which  gave  rise  to  the  story  of  the  Loro  Jonggrang.    

 Nearby  also  is  Candi  Plaosan,  also  9th  Century  and  Buddhist  ⎯  therefore  Sailendra  in  origin  ⎯  while  south  of  Prambanan  is  Ratu  Boko,  a  hill-­‐top  complex  of  bathing  pools  enclosed  by  stone  walls  and  fortified  gates.      Candi  Arjuna  on  the  Dieng  Plateau  

 Further  away  on  the  Dieng  Plateau  are  candi  older  than  Borobudur  and  the  Sailendras.  Here  there  are  8  (out  of  the  original  400)  small  Hindu  temples,  the  first  known  standing  stone  structures  in  Java.  Dating  from  the  7th  and  8th  Centuries,  they  are  small  and  relatively  plain  compared  to  the  later  ones  at  Prambanan.  The  area,  the  name  of  which  means  abode  of  the  gods23,  is  the  marshy  floor  of  an  ancient  caldera  near  Wonosobo.  It  is  almost  2000m  above  sea  level  and  home  to  mists,  poisonous  effusions  and  sulphur-­coloured  lakes24.    The  end  of  the  Sanjayas  The  Sanjaya  dynasty  came  to  an  end  when  Mpu  Sindok  succeeded  to  the  throne  after  his  father-­‐in-­‐law  died  in  929.  As  outlined  earlier,  he  moved  his  kraton  from  Central  Java  to  East  Java  where  the  name  was  also  changed  from  Mataram  to  Medang.  This  must  have  been  sometime  in  the  early  10th  Century  because  his  son  succeeded  him  in  947.  The  new  dynasty  took  its  name  Isyana  from  this  son,  Sri  Isyanatunggawijaya.  In  turn,  the  last  king  of  the  Isyana  and  hence,  of  the  Sanjayas  was  Dharmawangsa  who  became  ruler  in  985  but  was  killed  in  1006  AD  when  Srivijaya  invaded  and  sacked  his  kraton  in  retaliation  for  Dharmawangsa’s  attacks  on  its  territories.      Airlangga,  a  16-­‐year-­‐old  Balinese  prince  who  was  staying  with  his  maternal  uncle  Dharmawangsa  in  the  Watugaluh  kraton  when  it  was  sacked,  escaped  into  the  mountains  of  East  Java  where  he  lived  as  a  hermit  with  his  guard,  Narotama.  In  1009  he  emerged  to  avenge  his  uncle’s  death  and  in  doing  so,  founded  the    kingdom  of  Kahuripan  which,  although  it  did  not  outlive  Airlangga,  was  one  of  the  most  resplendent  of  all  the  Javanese  empires.      

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                                                                                               23 from Di Hyang 24 Wikipedia at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieng_Plateau