1_the sewing needle training

APRIL 2008

Prepared by Tamil Selvan

Training Manual_ Sewing Machine Needle of 20 25.9.2009

CONTENTS

NO CONTENTS PAGE

1. THE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE 3

2. NEEDLES, NEEDLE BRAND, NEEDLE SYSTEM 4

3. NEEDLE SIZE, GROZ-BECKERT NEEDLE POINT

FORMS

5

4. GROZ-BECKERT POINT FORMS, SCHMETZ NEEDLE

POINT FORMS

6

5. GROZ-BECKERT CLOTH POINTS (SPECIFICATIONS

AND APPLICATIONS

7-8

6. THE INFORMATION ON THE NEW GROZ-BECKERT

PACKAGING

9

7. MACHINE TYPE AND NEEDLE SYSTEM USED 10

8. THE SPECIAL APPLICATION NEEDLE SAN® 10

(GROZ-BECKERT®)

11

9. CROSS-SECTION 12-14

10. FIBER DAMAGE, QUALITY SEAM 15

11. SPECIAL DEVELOPED GEOMETRY, DEFLECTION

RESISTANCE

16

12. SPECIAL INFORMATION HOW TO AVOID MATERIAL

DAMAGES

17

13. THE MOST FREQUENT CAUSE, HOWEVER IS THE

NEEDLE TIP. TESTS APPLIED TO THE DAMAGES

ARE THE FOLLOWING

18

14. NEEDLE FUSED 19-20


The Sewing Machine Needle

The sewing machine needle is made up of various basic

elements which are constantly arranged and rearranged in

new needle design to suit the many fields of application.

These basic elements are the needle shank, the needle blade

and the needle point with the eye and (Needle Brand).

The numerous ways in which these can combined result in the

very comprehensive selection of the sewing machine needles

available to us today.

BUTT

SHANK CONE

REINFORCED BLADE

GROOVE

BLADE

SCARF EYE

POINT

GB 75

Length


Needles

The classification of needles

1. Needle Brand

2. Needle System

3. Needle Size

4. Needle Point

Needle Brand

1. Groz-Beckert

2. Rheinnadel

3. Organ

4. Singer

5. Schmetz and others

Needle System

The main classification for a Sewing Machine needle is

called the “Needle System”. This generally contains the

dimensions of:

1. The needle length

2. The shank thickness


Needle Size

The needle thickness is the thickness of the needle blade

immediately above the eye

Equivalent of needle size

GB/schmetz 60 65 70 75 80 85

Organ/singer 8 9 10 11 12 13

GROZ-BECKERT Needle Point forms

The needle point is to perforate the material either by

pushing the fibers aside or cutting through the material.

All textiles, whether woven, warped, felted or knitted, are

sewn with a specific needle point shape to suit their

structure.

The right choice of point has a significant effect on the

finished sewing results. The right needle tip will give you

the tip-top results you want.


GROZ-BECKERT POINT FORMS

SCHMETZ NEEDLE POINT FORMS

Regular round point

Sharp round point

Round point with slightly rounded

tip

Light ball point

Medium ball point

Heavy ball point

Special ball point

Universal application for LOCKSTITCH

(FST 301) and woven cloth

Standard for BLINDSTITCH.Also for very

straight stitchlines (susceptible to damage)

Recommended application for CHAINSTITCH

(FST 401) knitted fabrics and button sewing

For all kind of knitted and synthetic

fabrics

For highly elasticated material with rubber

or elastomeric content

For coarser materials of high elasticity.

Also for open-structured fabrics

Knitted and woven fabrics with high content

of elastomerics (Lycra, Dorlastan, etc)


Machine type and needle system used

No. Machines Types Needle System

1. 1ND JUKI -16×231

-DB×1

-1738

2. 1ND PFAFF -134

-DP×5

3. 2ND PFAFF -134

-134×35

-DP×5

-DP×17

4. 1ZZ PFAFF

1ZZ SINGER

1ZZU PFAFF

-134

-DP×5

-438

-1906

5. 3ZZ PFAFF

3ZZ SINGER

-1906

-134

-438

6. UEW

UEW(union special )

-B27

-DC×27

-UY 154 GAS

7. UED

1KD

4UL

-B63

-B67

-UY 128 GAS

-MY 1014 C

8. AZZ -287

-DB×1

9. AGA -175×1

-175×7

10. FAG

-438

-134

11. EMB -438

-1906

-134

12. AXY JUKI(COMPUTER-

CONTROLLED, HIGH-SPEED,

BARTACKING MACHINE)

-134

-DP×5

-134×35

-DP×17


The Special Application Needle SAN® 10

(GROZ-BECKERT®)

A standstill in technical development is virtually unknown.

For apparel this means new fibers, new fabrics

constructions with different sew ability features. These

may be the cause for multiple processing problems on the

working floor in a sewing plant. There is a general demand

for lasting and flawless seams.

Within such conditions the sewing machine needle can make

all the difference. Specific fabric or seam components may

require rather special needle features.

The most common problems:

Fabric damage (needle cuts)

Skipped stitches, staggered seams

Puckering, distortion


Cross-Section

During the sewing process the needle can reach extremely

high speeds when moving through the fabric. The textile

fibers or yarns have to give way to the needle within an

extremely short time span of down to 0.0003 seconds.

They are being displaced by the penetrating needle. The

fiber displacement, a result of the bursting effect,

increases over proportionally with the increase of the

needle size. Consequently, there is a demand for the

employment of the thinnest possible needles. However, such

needles are rather instable or weak. They often lead to

irregular staggered seams, to skipped stitches and to

needle breakage. The machine speed has to be slowed down

drastically.

Cross-section at eye relevant for fiber displacement


In the design of the new SAN® 10 needles all those problems

and requirements were taken into consideration. To realize

this, specific manufacturing procedures had to be

developed.

A SAN® 10 needle of Nm 70/10 has the stability of a regular

needle size Nm 75/11. Yet, the fiber displacement in the

penetration area is comparable only with that of a regular

needle size Nm 65/9. The SAN® 10 needles combine a most

gentle fiber/ fabric handling with increased sewing

capacity.


In the case of loop damage or needle cuts in knitted

structures or excessive puckering in micro fiber fabrics

you should select a SAN® 10 needle of the same size as

being used- or of the next smaller size without losing

needle stability.

In the case of stitch skipping, staggered seams or

excessive needle breakage you should select a SAN® 10

needle of the same size as being used – or the next bigger

size without an increase in fabric damage.


Fiber Damage

The advantages of a SAN® 10 needle over a standard needle

are shown clearly in a comparison of the amount of fabric

damages which were evaluated on a critical 28 gauge single

knit fabric. 22% of the needle penetrations produced with

the standard needle size Nm 70/10 showed some fiber damage

in a microscopically inspection. Equivalent seams produced

with a SAN® 10 needle of size 70/10 had only 2% damaged

fibers.

In the comparison of needle sizes Nm 65/9 the standard

needle seams showed 8% damages whereas the SAN® 10 needle

laid a seam without any relevant damages.

Quality of Seam

Seam puckering on densely woven cloth and on micro fiber

fabrics is often initiated by the displacement of the warp

and weft yarns during needle penetration.

The relatively high stability of the SAN® 10 needle in most

cases allows the selection of a thinner needle size. Both,

the reduction of at least one needle size and the improved

needle cross- section help to minimize the puckering effect

in many cases of application. (The thread size may have to

be adapted). The particular shape of the needle point also

helps to avoid damages.

Skipped stitches and staggered seams are often the

consequences when too thin and thus instable needles are

used.

It is the higher bending resistance of the SAN® 10 needles

that opens the opportunity to use thinner needles without

such consequential downfalls.


Special Developed Geometry

The whole geometry of the SAN® 10 needle has been fine

turned to the application. The needle blade, the scarf, the

eye, the groove, and even the point were designed towards

the processing of fine gauge and critical fabrics.

This is why the SAN® 10 needle does not only handle the

sewing goods more gently than the standard needles but it

also has a maximum achievable needle stability within each

size.

Deflection Resistance

The specific resistance against bending forces, i.e. the

force required to deflect the needle dynamically by 1

degree, is up to 29% higher, e.g. with needle class 1738

SAN® 10 as compared to standard 16×257.


Special information how to avoid material

damages

Here we do not want to analyze in particular, why material

damages occur. Since the reasons can be beside the

technical causes in the material construction, the

finishing, the air or material humidity and dyeing.

Usually, all this facts cannot be changed anymore when the

cutting is in the production already. So we must take the

given reason as reality and try to solve the problem with

technical means.

1. Cause

Material damages can have various causes e.g. sharp

edges feed dog teeth, needle plate, blind needles,

damage needle plates, sharp edged of sports at the

presser foot, rough finger nails or rough machine

tables and so on.

The thread, can also destroy single loops in developing

a sewing effect when it is drawn through the material

especially the (3) fold threads but even “Rasant 80/2”,

too.

It also happens that single loops melt away by the

needle temperature caused by a high speed of rotation.

Here mostly helps on oiling nipple significantly placed

between the thread lever and needle eye with the

emulation shell sol T-silicon 100 in the ratio of (3)

to (1).

Since at a high speed of rotation material damages can

be caused by the raised impact velocity of the needle

tip the reason is not always the warning of the needle.

At a too high temperature of the needle single loops

gum up , so that the material layers stick together at

the stitching holes when sewing is done without thread

at full speed of rotation.


The most frequent cause, however is the

needle tip. Tests applied to the damages

are the following

2. Consequence

There are (4) basic types of material damages

a. An elastomer thread (rubber thread is cut off)

b. A fiber of the basic material is cut off or hurt

c. A loop of the thread of the basic material bursts by

the prick of the needle

d. The fiber melts caused by a too high temperature of

the needle

3. Solution of the problem to point (2)

a. Use a needle with a bigger ball point

b. Use a needle with a smaller ball point

c. Use the thinner needle

d. Cool the thread and make it slide better (silicon

emulsion). Important. Correctly attach the needle

temperature is too high the speed of rotation must be

reduced.

Those theoretical considerations should be done at

first for each occurring problem (2b). A compromise

must be found which brings the best result with

regard to the occurring material combination (e.g.

thin knitwear is sewn on cotton fabric etc)


Needle Fused

It depends largely on the sewing speed whether damage

occurs by excessive heating of the needle. The following

information gives an ideas of the needle temperature

arising during the sewing progress.

At the sewing speeds of industrial sewing machines in

excess of 4.000 sti/min, the needle temperature rises

quickly.

Smearing of the needle , thread breakage, skip stitches,

fabric damage by melted residues in the throat plate

aperture. The cause of these difficulties is always that

components of the materials melt and stick to the needle.

As long as the needle is moving, these residues adhering to

the needle remain in a state where they can be molded and

increase the friction between needle and material

considerably. When the machine is stopped, the needle cools

down and the melted residues become solid, making further

use of the needle impossible in the long run.

Needle positioners which keep the needle out of the

material when the machine stops are helpful in this respect

Test done in (BFM) shows that the Quality of sewing thread

also contribute to cooling of needle.

Possible methods of reducing the needle temperature are:

1. Reduction of friction by lubrication of the thread or

2. Reduction of the needle temperature by compressed air

Cooling


To 1:

These silicone oils can either be carried by the sewing

thread to the needle. However, if these silicone oils are

carelessly applied, there is no guarantee that stains will

be prevented from appearing on sensitive fabrics. Hence

these silicone oil are not suitable for every material.

Generally, when using a thread lubricant it is advised that

this should take place as near to the needle as possible.

Only this guarantees that the lubricant reaches the needle,

the sewing thread and the material in sufficient quantity

Silicone oil not only for cooling purposes and for

reduction of friction - but are also used as lubricants to

keep residues of glue or melted particles off the needle

Test have being done in BFM by using the Sprayway Silicone

Spray (No.945) by spraying direct to the thread. It helps

to reduce sticking and heat on the needle.

To 2:

Cooling by compressed air is still the most effective

cooling. Such cooling devices generally consist of a small

compressor continuously furnishing compressed air. It is

conveyed to the sewing area through tubes ending in a small

nozzle near the needle. Thus the needle is provided with

sufficient cooling air but occasionally the operators are

annoyed by the cold air stream

1_the sewing needle training

Documents

needle point needle

needle system

needle blade

needle shank

needle thickness

needle length

sewing machine needle

right needle tip