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PFAFF

17

2$

hy 1016

13

PFAFF

hohhy 106

19

Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1016

1 Thread guide

2 Bobbin winder tension

3 Needle thread tension

4 Adjustment field

5 Spool holder

6 Bobbin winder

7 Handwheel

8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot

9 Pattern adjustment button

10 Reverse key

11 Connection bushing

12 Master switch

13 Detachable work support with accessory box

14 Needle plate

15 Thread guide

16 Thread guide

17 Thread cutter

18 Threading slot

19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)

20 Presser foot holder with presser foot

21 Free-arm

22 Feed dog

23 Needle holder with fixing screw

25 Thread guide

26 Presser bar lifter

27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)

28 Take-up lever

29 Carrying handle

P’ease fold this page open to simplify the under

standing of this instruction manual when reading it.

ndex on pages 4 — 5

Sewing for fun

Congratulations! You have bought a quality product

made by Pfaff which is sure to bring you countless

hours of sewing pleasure. Your new sewmg machThe

features the very latest in design and technology.

Furthermore, it has numerous practical features

which will make sewing much easier for you.

Your sewing machThe is as simple to operate as this

instruction manual is to follow. Before you start sew

Thg, please take the time to read these instructions

carefully. It is certainly time well spent, and is the

best way to find out just what your machine can do

and make full use of all its features.

If you have any further questions, just ask your Pfaff

dealer, who will be happy to assist you with help

or advice.

We wish you many enjoyable hours creatmg your

very own fashion ideas.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NSTRUCTONSFor the United States only

This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only. When you

use an electric appliance, the following basic safety precautions should always be adhered

to: Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1 The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this

appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing sewing light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 5 Watts.

3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

4. Do not place or store a sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not

place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WAR NNG To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Great care is necessary when this sewing machine is used

by or near children.

2. Only use this sewing machine for its intended purpose as described in this manual.

Only use attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working

properly, it it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to

the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination repair electrical or mechanical

adjustment.

4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of

the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth

5. Never drop or insert anything into any opening.

6. Do not use out of doors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being

administered.

8 To disconnect turn all controls to off ( 0 ) position then remove plug from socket

9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be

blocked.

10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug. hold the plug, not the cord.

11 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine

needle.

12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

13. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Only use needles recommended by the manufacturer.

14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing if to break.

15. Switch the sewing machine off (0”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as

threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.

16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electric outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or

when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual,

Please also observe the general safety notes on Page 3.

KEEP THESE NSTRUCTONS N A SAFE PLACE

Notes on safety for domestic sewing machines

The machines meet the relevant safety Environment

requirements. The recommended environment is:

1. The user must exercise adequate caution Ambient temperature 50°F (10°C) to 104°F

with regard to the up-and-down movement (40°C)

of the needle and constantly observe the Humidity: 20% to 80% Storage temperature -

sewing area during work. 13°F (- 25°C) to +140°F (60°C).

2. When leaving the machine, during mainte- The machine is insensitive to interference, but itnance work or when changing mechanical should not be used in the direct vicinity of elecparts or accessories, always disconnect the tronic appliances such as radios, televisions,machine from the main power by unplug- personal computers, radio transmitters, etc.ging the lead cord from the wall outlet,

3. The maximum permissible wattage for the This machine is a high quality electronic-

sewing lamp is 15 watts. mechanical appliance, It is a machine for su

4. An authorized PFAFF mechanic only must pervised use in the home. It should be operated

adjust the tension of the belt drive, in such a way that it is not subjected to: dust,

5. The machine must be put into operation ac- severe dampness, direct sunlight, static elec

cording to the indications on the specifica- tricity, heat-producing oblects, corrosive chemi

tion plate. cals or liquids.

6 Do not insert any oblects into openings on For ventilation purposes the machine must be

the machine, used on an unobstructed, solid, level surface.

7. Do not use the machine if:• there is visible damage Treatment

its’ functioning is disturbed, Always avoid damage to the machine by pro-• it is wet, i.e. condensation which can oc- tecting it against hitting or dropping.cur when a cold machine is installed in a

warm room. Cleaning8. To unplug lead cord from wall socket, grasp

the plug close to the wall. Do not pull the Housing:

main plug out of the wall socket by the cord. For cleaning the housing use a dry, clean. soft

9 If the appliance is used for the wrong pur- lint-free cloth. To remove any stubborn dirt, use

pose or incorrectly operated, no liability can a soft cloth with alcohol,

be accepted for any possible damage.

10. To avoid the risk of electric shock, do not Please note!

open the machine There are no parts in Do not use any insecticides or chemical pro

side the machine that the user can repair. ducts such as petrol (gas) or low-viscosity che

This is solely the responsibility of our quail- micals for cleaning the housing.

fled service staff.11 Be sure to use only PFAFF original parts

12. The machine is designated for a mains

supply with a nominal voltage of

+1- 10% and a rated frequency of1- 4 %.

13. When used properly, the temperature of

the outer components of a non-electroni

cally controlled foot control can reach up

to 85°C. Constant use at a low speed is

therefore not permitted in order to avoid

damage.14. According to the laws concerning electro

magnetic compatibility, no liability can be

accepted for any mains interruptions cau

sed, should the mains power line be chan

ged or should changes be made to it.

hobby — Sewingforfun

Index

A F

Accessories and needles 41 Feed dog, lowering 18

Accessory compartment 9 Felling foot 45

Foot control 8

Free arm 9

B

Bias tape binder 44

Bobbin case 12-13 G

Bobbin thread tension 13 Gathering with the straight stitch 30

Buttonholes 26-27 General sewing aids 22

Buttons 24

H

C Handwheel. releasing 10

Changing the needle 18 Hemming with the twin needle 28

Changing the sewing lamp 51 Hook, removing 50

Cleaning and oiling 50

Control panel 19

Cording foot 45 K

Knit-edge foot 46

D

Darning 31 L

Detachable work support 9 Lace-work 35

Drawing up the bobbin thread 16 Linen buttonhole 27

Linen buttonhole with gimp thread 27

E

Edge guide 22 M

Elastic stitch 25 Maintenance 49

Electrical connection 8 Master switch 8

hobby — Sewingfor fun

N Setting utility stitches 20

Needle charts 47-48 Sewing feet (normal accessories) 42

Needle plate, removing 51 Sewing feet (special accessories) 43

Needle thread tension 22 Sewing lamp 51

Sewing on patches 31

Sewing problems and their solutions 52

O Shell edging 36

Oiling the machine 50 Smocking 29

Optional accessories Special accessories chart 43

Spool placement 10

Stitch chart 6

p Straight stitch 23

Patchwork quilt 39-40

Practical sewing 21

Presser bar lifter 15 T

Thread cutter 16

Thread tension 12

o Threading 14-15

Quilt and patchwork foot 46 Threading the needle thread 14

Topstitching 22

Traditional embroidery techniques 37

R Troubleshooting 52

Repairing tears 31 Twin needle 28

Reverse sewing 20

Richelieu 38

Roll hemming 34 W

Ruffler 44 Winding the bobbin 10-11

S zSafety notes 2 Zigzag stitch 23

Serging with the zigzag stitch 23 Zippers 32-33

hobby — Sewing for fun

hobby 1016— Stitch chart

Program Name Application

1 3Buttonhole A3 A42 A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses

2 and bed linen

B Straight stitch For all straight stitch

needle position middle and lockstitch, stitch length 1 mm

Straight stitch For all straight stitch

needle position middle and lockstitch, stitch length 2 mm

83 9 Straight stitch For all straight stitchneedle position middle and lockstitch, stitch length 4 mm

C, -“-“--“ Zigzag- stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 2 mm

C Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 4 mm

C3 Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

D ,. ,. Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band,darning tears and patches

Operating the machine

Bobbin winding 10-11

Bobbin case 12-13

Bobbin thread tension 13

Changing the needle 18

Changing the presser foot 17

Control panel 19

Detachable work support 9

Drawing up the bobbin thread 16

Electrical connection 8

Free arm 9

Lowering the feed dog 18

Needle thread tension 18

Presser bar lifter 15

Reverse serging 20

Setting the utility stitches 20

Threading the needle thread 14-15

Thread cutter 16


Carrying handle

Lift up the carrying handle of the sewing

machine from behind.

Electrical connection

Connect the plug of the foot pedal tothe connection bushing (11) on the sew

ing machine and the electrical socket.The sewing speed is regulated by press

ing the foot pedal. For this sewing machine has to be used foot controllerYC-482 or TJC-1 50.

Master switch

The sewing lamp lights up when the mas

ter switch (12) is turned on. The machine

is now ready to sew.

pFFF

220 V

8


Removing the detachable work support

I free armIn order to be able to sew with the tree

arm, you must swing the detachable work

support (13> to the left and lift it out of

the hole.When inserting the detachable work sup

port, make sure that it is flush with the free

arm of the sewing machine.

)

Accessory compartment Organizing the accessories

The accessory compartment is found un- Place the enclosed accessories into the

derneath the detachable work support accessory compartment.

(13), that has to be opened.

Inserting the detachable work support

Push the pins of the detachable work sup

port (13) from the left fully into the holesprovided.

9

Operating the rncwhine

Preparing the machine for bobbinwindingPull the handwheel (7) fully to the right.This will prevent the needle moving whilethe machine is winding the bobbin.

Mounting the bobbin

Switch off the master switch (12)

Place the empty bobbin onto the pin of thebobbin winding mechanism and press itdown as far as possible. Push the bobbinto the right.

Note: The bobbin can only be wound/fitis moved fully to the right.

Winding the bobbin

Pull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it.

Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (2) and run it to the bobbin.

Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin several times.

Turn the master switch (12) on and press the foot pedal.

Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the winding

action will be stopped automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left and remove it

from the pin.

10

a

iobbylOl6

C

C

IH°


Bobbin winder tension

Pass the thread through the bobbin threadtension (2) in a clockwise direction, so thatit crosses over itself on the way to thebobbin.

Winding a bobbin through the needle

It is possible to wind bobbins even whenthe machine is threaded. Raise the presser bar lifter (26) to the top position. Pullthe thread underneath the presser foot.

Pull the thread upward through the left-hand threader slot (18). Place the thread from

left to right through the take-up lever (28). Wind the beginning of the thread several

times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread firmly and

press the foot pedal.

Tip: While winding the bobbin, gently push down the front of the presser foot with

your finger.

Don’t forget: After winding a bobbin, press the handwheel (7) back to the left!

#i

I

.

I 11 i

(L

II

Operafi,1g the ,ncu’hjne

Hold the side of the hook cover (19) and

open it towards you.

Thread tension

In order to achieve a perfect seam ap

pearance and durability make sure the

needle and bobbin thread tensions are

correctly adjusted to each other, so that

the thread interlace is not visible on both

sides of the fabric.

The following is valid for generalsewing work:

Thread interlace is visible on the top side

of the fabric:

• The needle thread tension is too tight or

the bobbin thread tension is too loose.

• The thread tension must be corrected.

Thread interlace is visible on the under

side of the fabric:

• The needle thread tension is too loose

or the bobbin thread tension is too tight.

• The thread tension must be corrected.

For fancy stitches, buttonholes anddarning the thread interlace should be

visible on the underside of the fabric.

Hook cover Taking out the bobbin case

Switch off the master switch (12). Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull

the bobbin case out. Release the latch

and take out the empty bobbin.

12


Inserting the bobbinInsert the full bobbin in the bobbin case.When doing so, pull the thread sidewaysthrough slot A and then under tensionspring B so that it rests in the opening(see arrow).

Checking the bobbin thread tension

Hold the thread protruding from the bobbin case and pull the thread upwardssharply. The bobbin case must drop downthe thread during this movement.

Adjusting the setting:Using the screwdriver from the accessories, turn setting screw C just a little tothe left to decrease the bobbin thread tension.

Turn setting screw C just a little to the rightto increase the bobbin thread tension.

Inserting the bobbin caseLift latch D and push the bobbin case fullyonto pin E of the sewing hook. The bobbincase finger F must point into cutout G.

Check:Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbincase must not fall out of the hook.

13


Threading the needle thread

PFAFFJSwitch off the master switch (1 2).

Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the

thread. Raise the presser bar lifter (26).Turn the handwheel until the take-up lever

(28) is at its highest position.

Thread by following the steps A to E.

Tip:All the thread guides have an opening in

which you can simply lay the threads.

14


Threading the needle

Thread the needle thread through the eyeof the needle from the front to the back.

Presser bar lifter

The presser foot is raised and loweredwith the presser bar lifter (26).

I’;

Operating the nachine

Drawing up the bobbin thread

bQ’d Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle

‘ thread and turn the handwheel towards

you until the needle is at its highest posi

tion and the bobbin thread has formed a

loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the

1

_____

bobbin thread

Bobbin thread

Close the hook cover (19) and pull the

thread under the presser foot to the left.II

I -

/ L

Thread cutter

Pull the thread from the back to the front

over the thread cutter (17).

]6

Operatin.g the machhie

Removing the presser foot

Switch off the master switch (12).

Raise the needle to its highest position.

Press the front of the presser foot up and

the rear of the presser foot down until itdisengages from the presser foot holder

(20).

Attaching the presser foot

Place the presser foot under the presserfoot holder (20) so that when the presserbar lifter (26) is lowered, the pins of thefoot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check:Please check that the presser foot is properly attached by raising the presser barlifter.

c_4t I4

17

Operaüng the machine

Changing the needle


To remove: Lower the presser foot and

set the needle to its highest point. Loosen

the fixing screw (23) and pull the needle

downwards.

To insert: The flat side A of the needle

must face to the rear. Lower the presser

foot and insert the needle, pushing it up

as far as it will go. Hold the needle and

tighten the fixing screw (23) firmly.

Setting the neecile thread tension

Set the required amount of the needle

thread tension (3) using the markings on

the tension dial.

The normal setting for sewing is 4-5.

For embroidery and buttonhole sewing be

tween 2 and 3.

Lowering the feed dog

For certain sewing work, such as sewing

on buttons, the feed dog (22) has to be

lowered. To do this, open the hook cover

(19) and move the metallic slide to the

right-hand position (B) by pushing it down

wards and then to the right. To engage the

feed dog, push down the slide and lock it

into the left-hand position (A).

J

PFAFF

I44IiiR

I18


—

All the sewing programs and the relevant foot recommendations are depicted on the

control panel of your sewing machine. The various programs are selected using the

stitch pattern adjustment button (9) on the left.

Control panel

hobby 1016

‘9


Reverse sewingThe machine sews in reverse only as long

as the reverse sewing key (10) is pressed.

Setting utitity stitches

All stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern

chart (8).

Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) you can set the desired stitch by turning

the dial until the required letter appears in the adjustment field (4).

20

Utility stitchesand practical sewingButtonholes 26-27

Darning 31

Elastic stitch 25

Gathering 30

General sewing aids 22

Hemming with the twin needle 28

Lace work 35

Non-elastic stitches 23

Roll hemming 34

Sewing on buttons 24

Shell edging 36

Smocking 29

Zippers 32 33

2?

Utility stitches wid pruc&aI sewing

Needle thread tension

In order to achieve a perfectly sewn seam,

the needle thread and bobbin thread ten

jsions must be correctly adjusted to eachother. The normal setting for utility stitchesis in the range from 4 to 5.

PFA F FCheck the tension using a wide zigzagstitch. The thread interlace must be be-tween the two layers of fabric.

If the needle thread tension is too tight,the interlace will be on the top side of thefabric.

If the needle thread tension is set tooloose, the interlace will be on the reverseside of the fabric.

The adjustment of the bobbin thread ten.

4 sion is described on page 15.

Topstitching with the edge guide(special accessories)

For broad topstitching work we recommend using the edge guide. This accessory guarantees topstitching which isparallel to the edge of the fabric. The edgeguide is inserted into hole C and is secured with fixing screw F

Feed aid for thick seams

To ensure precise feeding at the beginning of a thick seam, we recommend placing a piece of fabric which is the samethickness as the work under the back ofthe sewing toot to support it.

22

Utility titches and practical sewing

Use adjustment button to select:

B: stitch length 1 mm

B2: stitch length 2 mm

B: stitch length 4 mmTip: Blind stitch foot no. 3 is particularly

suitable for serging thin materials. While

sewing, the thread passes over the bar

thus preventing the fabric edge from roll

ing up. This ensures a good, smooth

seam. The trimmed edge must be guided

along the stop. You can adjust the stop

with the retaining screw.

4r.

Straight stitch Zigzag stitch

Program B is the basic straight stitch in C: stitch length 0.5 mm; stitch width 2 mm

center needle position. 02: stitch length 1.5 mm; stitch width 4 mm

03: stitch length 1.5 mm; stitch width 5 mm

23

Utility stitches wtd practtctd sewing

Sewing on buttonsFor sewing on buttons, the presser footmust be removed and the feed dog mustbe lowered (ci. page 20).

Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch, stitch

02, by turning the stitch adjustmentbutton (9).

Sewing on buttons with a thread shank

• Attach the presser foot.

• Place a match between the holes in thebutton and sew as described in the lefthand column on this page.

• Remove the match and pull the fabricand the button apart.

• Wrap the shank with the sewing threadand knot it.

fi

24

Utility stiteiws and prarticai sewing

Elastic stitchStitch DBecause of its high elasticity, this stitch isused for sewing on elastic band, e.g. onunderwear; skirt, trouser and dress waistbands: and cuffs.

If replacing elastic, cut off old elasticclose to its edge.

• If needed, gather the fabric edge with the

4 4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page 30).

• Divide fabric and elastic into quartersand mark. You may find it easier to handle if you pin the elastic to the fabric atthe matching marks.

• Stretch the elastic to fit the fabric,matching marks as you sew.

• Overlap the ends slightly and securewith the elastic stitch.

• On skirts and pants (trousers) theelastic is sewn onto the prepared edgewith the elastic stitch.

25

Utility stitches and practical sewing

Buttonholes

Sewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric does

not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recommend the

buttonhole foot.

Generally, buttonholes are sewn onto lined, doubled fabric, However, it is necessary to

additionally stabilize some materials such as silk, organza and rayon with backing paper

so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn.

Avalon (from Madeira) is very good for this purpose. This is a special type of stabilizer

that dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick wool fabrics that feed

poorly it can be used either on or underneath the fabric. The material is thus fed more

efficiently by the machine and buttonholes are much easier to sew.

Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive seams.

Using a fabric marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always

sew a test buttonhole first.

Note:Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot forward as far

as it will go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5 cm apart.

The red markings give you a means of determining the length of the buttonhole.

Tip: It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as

your project.

26

Utility stitches mu! practical sewing

iwri .

Sewing buttonholes with the button

hole foot

Linen buttonhole

• Attach the buttonhole foot and slide the

foot forward as far as it will go.

• Position the pattern adjustment dial at

A1 and sew the first buttonhole seam in

the desired length.

• Select setting A112 and sew 4-6 stitches

for the bartack. Make sure the fabric

stays in position while doing this.

- Select setting A3 and sew the second

buttonhole seam in the reverse direction

and in the same length.

* Select setting A42 again and sew a few

bartack stitches while making sure the

fabric stays in position.

• Select straight stitch setting B1 and sew

a few tying off stitches. Make sure the

fabric stays in position.

Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of

a pair of scissors or a slitting knife.

Linen buttonhole with gimp thread

To sew especially durable buttonholes,

e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using

a gimp thread.

On elastic materials the gimp thread is

particularly important to prevent the but

tonhole from stretching.

• Lay the gimp thread over the rear pro

trusion A and pass the thread ends un

derneath the presser foot towards the

front.

• Clamp the threads to the left and right

of protrusion B.

• Slide the buttonhole runner as far for

wards as possible and sew the but

tonhole as described in the left hand

column.

• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the

buttonhole and trim the thread ends.

Program A3 /A412 / A1

Tip: In order to prevent damaging the bar-

tack by cutting open the buttonhole, insert

a pin into the bartack.27

L’iihtv stir he s u,id pru ttci1 euH

i• —I—

Il ..—.

I

*

_,*•_,*. •.* .

/ I

_________

i*•I

Hemming with the twin needle

Topstitching work can be carried out onnormal and stretch materials with the twinneedle.

Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwearand cycling shorts can be sewn quicklyand easily with the twin needle. Thetwin needle is available in various widths.

Please ensure that you use the jerseyneedle for stretch fabrics!

First fold and iron the width of fabricdesired for the hem.

Topstitch the hem from the face side.

Cut the protruding hem edge fabricclose to the seam.

Tip: On difficult materials such as ribbedknitwear it is advisable to baste the hembefore topstitching it.

Threading the twin needle

• Place a spool on each of the spool pins.

• Pass both of the threads through thethread guides (cf. page 14).

• Lay the threads behind the threadguides (15) and (16) and thread one ofthe threads into each of the right andleft needles.

28

Utility stifehet and practical sewing

Smocking effect with elastic threads

Fine, light fabrics such as batiste, rayon

and silk are especially suitable for beau

tiful smocking work. For smocking work

with elastic thread you should use an ad

ditional bobbin case and wind it by hand

with the elastic thread. As the elastic

thread is much stronger than the normal

bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin

case must be set very loose. Dont forget

however, the higher the bobbin thread ten

sion, the tighter the gathering effect.

• Sew a test seam to determine the level

of gather.

Mark the first line on the face side of the

fabric and sew along it.

• Each additional seam can be sewn at a

presser foot’s width from the first row.

• When sewing several seams next to one

another, you must stretch the fabric to

its original length when sewing the sub

sequent seams. Otherwise the gather

will be irregular.

Knot the threads at the beginning andend of the seam on the reverse side.

29

Utilily stirche.s atid practical sewing

Gathering with the straight stitch

With program B3 you can gather sleeves,skirts and valances with a stitch length of4 mm. To ensure a consistent gatheringeffect you should sew two or three rowsof gathers.

• Mark the first line on the face side ofthe fabric and sew along it. Allow thethreads to extend approx. 10-20 cm beyond the ends of the fabric.

• Each subsequent seam can be sewnone presser foot width from the last.

Gather the piece of fabric by pullingthe bobbin thread. You determine theamount of gather by how much you pull

the thread.

Secure the gathers by knotting thethread ends.

30

Utility titches and practical sewing

Darning with the elastic stitch D

Darning with the elastic stitch is especially

suitable for repairing damaged areas.

• Sew over the damaged area in rows un

til it is well covered. Take care to ensure

that the rows overlap.

WW*

Repairing tears

On tears, frayed edges or small holes it

is useful to lay a piece of fabric under

the reverse side of the fabric. The under

laid fabric reinforces the workpiece and

ensures you a perfect repair.

• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the

material. It must always be a little larger

than the damaged area.

• Sew over the damaged area in accord

ance with the size of the tear.

• Trim the underlaid piece of fabric back

to the seam.

Sewing on patches

To cover larger holes well, it is necessary

to sew a new piece of fabric onto the dam

aged area.

• Baste the new piece of fabric onto the

damaged area of the face side of the

fabric.

• Sew over the fabric edges with the elas

tic stitch.

- Trim the damaged area back to the

seam from the reverse side of the fabric.

Tip: To simplify turning the corners of the

patch, turn the handwheel until the needle

is in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and

pivot the fabric.

3’

Utility titche and practical sewing

Sewing in zippers

There are different ways to sew in zippers.For skirts we recommend inserting a centered zipper. For men’s or ladies’ pants(trousers), a lapped zipper works best. Different types of zippers are available inretail stores: invisible, metal, plastic, jeansand outerwear to name a few. We recommend. metal zippers for heavier fabricssuch as jeans. For all other materials aplastic zipper will work well and create asofter finish to your completed garment.

• Attach the zipper foot (optional accessory) to the right side.

• Baste or pin the zipper in place andposition it under the presser foot sothat the teeth run along the side of thepresser foot.

• Sew in half of the zipper, leaving theneedle in the material. Raise the presser foot and close the zipper.

• You can now sew the rest of the seamto the end of the zipper and stitch thecross-wise seam.

For all types of zippers it is importantto sew close tothe teeth of the zipper. The zipper foot(optional accessory) can be engagedin the foot holder tothe left or right, depending on the method of insertion.

• Sew the second half of the zipper parallel, the same distance from the centerseam as the first half.

Stop shortly before the end of the seamand leave the needle in the material.Raise the presser foot and open thezipper.

• You will now be able to complete theseam.

A

p

Inserting centered zippers(concealed on both sides)

32

• Baste the zipper under the overlapping

edge so that the teeth are still visible.

• Engage the zipper foot on the right andset the needle to the required position.

• Stitch close to the edge of the zipper

teeth.

• Close the zipper and baste the overlapevenly onto the other zipper half.

• Stitch along the basted seam.

Tip: To achieve accurate seams we recommend using the edge guide (specialaccessories).


1?-.

Trouser zippers Shortly before the end of the seam,

• Press the left front seam allowance over open the zipper and finish sewing the

1I8 (4 mm) narrower than the actual seam.

seam allowance.

33


Roll hemming

With the roll hemmer (special accesso

ries) you can finish the edge of blouses,

scarves, or ruffles without having to iron

the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents

the edges from fraying and produces a

neat and durable edge finish.

• Double-fold the fabric edge(about 11872 mm per fold).

• Place the folded fabric edge under the

hemmer and sew a few straight stitches

B, to secure.

• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the

presser foot and insert the fabric intothe hemmer foot scroll.

• Lower the presser foot and while sewing, guide the fabric edge evenly intothe hemmer. Ensure the fabric does notrun underneath the right side of thepresser foot.

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fabrics,

the roll hem is particularly attractive with a

zigzag stitch.

34


Lace-work

Lace inserts

A beautiful heirloom effect can beachieved on christening wear, children’s

clothes and other garments with lace in

serts.

• Baste the lace to the face side of thefabric.

Stitch very close to both edges of the

lace using straight stitch.

• Carefully slit the fabric behind the lace

at the center. Press these edges towards the garment.

• Overstitch both edges of the lace with a

small zigzag stitch.

• Cut away the excess fabric on the back

of your project.

Lace edges with corners

Tablecloths, napkins and clothing can all

be beautifully enhanced with lace trimmings.

• Serge/clean-finish the fabric edges.

• Stitch the lace onto the face side of the

fabric up till the first corner.

• Fold over the corners and stitch themdiagonally.

Continue until all edges are stitched.

35


Shell edging

The shell edge is very effective for thin,

soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabric.It is frequently used as an edge finishon undergarments. The tighter the bobbin

thread tension is set, the farther the shell

edge will pull in.

Serge the fabric edge and iron over theseam allowance.

• Make sure that the fabric runs under thepresser foot at half of the foot width.This provides a more prominent shelledging effect.

Tip: If you add a colored pearl cotton

thread at the edge you can strengthenthe shell edging and obtain a pretty con

trast at the same time. Instead of pearlcotton thread you can also place a differ

ent colored light fabric underneath.

36

Traditional embroiderytechniquesPatchwork quilt 39 40

Richelieu 38

37

T,,dirionc,1 e1nb,y)derv Iechniquev

RichelieuThis very artistic form of bar and eyeletembroidery is easy to create with yoursewing machine.

• Transfer your pattern onto the right sideof the fabric using a fabric marker.

• Place two layers of water-soluble stabilizer under the area to be embroideredand tightly hoop the fabric and stabilizer.

• Attach foot number 0 to your machine,

• To make the embroidery more stable,sew all of the contours twice using thestraight stitch (stitch length approx. 1mm).

• Carefully cut away the fabric from theareas that will form the cutouts approximately 1/8” (2 mm) from stitching. Donot cut away the stabilizer — it helpsmaintain the shape and stability ofthe areas whilesewing.

• Embroider the contours with a satinstitch zigzag.

• When all satin stitching is completed,tear away large areas of water-solublestabilizer and dissolve remaining smallareas in water.

T j

I

38

rraditional ernbividery techniques

Patchwork quilt

Quilting is a traditional hand sewing tech

nique. The method that the wives of Amer

ican settlers developed to make use of

material remnants has become a very

popular artistic hobby for many sewing en

thusiasts.

Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclu

sively by hand. Nowadays, however, you

have the possibility to make your creative

ideas a reality in a much shorter time.

A quilt always consists of three layers

of material, Lots of geometrically shaped

pieces of material are joined together in

continually changing patterns to form the

top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto

the middle layer of polyester or cotton bat

ting and connected to the back layer of

the quilt. The quilt backing is usually one

uniform piece of fabric.

3v

Traditional embroidery iechniques

And this is what you doCut out the pieces of your quilt top using templates you have bought or madeyourself. A seam allowance of 1/4 (6.3mm) should already be included in thetemplates.

Spread these pieces out in front of youin accordance with the pattern and formsmall squares which you can then puttogether. These squares will then besewn together and will form the top plyof the quilt.

The seam allowances of quilts are usually not serged and are always pressedtowards the darker fabric side.

Baste the completed quilt top to thebatting and backing. In traditional quiltsthese three layers of material arethen sewn together by hand withsmall stitches. However, it is quickerand more practical with the sewingmachine, i.e. with the straight stitch.Quilting is usually stitched about3 mm away from the seam. Use footnumber 0 or the quilt and patchworkfoot (see page 46).

When the quilting is finished you cansimply bind the edges or make it intocushions, wearable art or other smallerprojects.

4()

Accessories and needles

Bias binder 44

Cording foot 45

Felling foot 45

Knit-edge foot 46

Needle chart 47-48

Quilting and patchwork foot 46

Ruffler 44

Sewing feet 42

Optional accessories chart 43

-II

- --- ----.

3 Blind-stitch foot (optional)

) Part no 98 694 845 00--—

4 Zipper foot (optional)

Part no 98 694 843 00

5 Buttonhole foot (included)

Part no: 98-694 882-00

Screwdriver

Bobbins

Machine oil

Knife

Needle system1301705 H

Part no: 93-040 971-41

Part no: 93-040 970-45

Part no: 93-035 910-91

Part no: 99-053 016-91

Part no: 48-020 804-32

AccessorIe3 and needles

Sewing feet

O Standard presser foot (included)

Part no: 98-694 847-00

42


Sewing feet (optional accessories)

The optional accessories are for special sewing work. They are available from your

dealer.

Designation

Pintuck foot with guide

PIntuck foot, 5 grooves(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-20)

Pntuck foot, 7 grooves(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0)

Straight stitch foot with round hole

Finger guard

Edge guide

Felling foot 4,5 mm

Felling foot 6.5 mm

Fancy stitch foot

RuffIcr(remove presser foot holder)

Cording foot

Quilt foot

Roll hemmer 2 mm

Roll foot

Hemmer 4 mm

Hemmer

Bias binder

Knit-edge toot

Non-stick foot

Order no.

93-036 942-91

93-042 950-9 1

93-042 953-9 1(needle size 80)

98-694 821 -00

93-036 910-91

98-802 422-00

93-042 946-91

93-042 948-9 1

98-694 864-0 1

98-999 650-00

93-036 915-91

93-036 925-91

98-694 873-00

91-046 703-03/001

98-694 823-00

98-694 818-00

98-053 484-91

93-042 957-91

93-036 91 7-91

Sewing work

For embroideringareas betweenpintucks

For pintuck work

For pintuck work

Attention! Only usestraight stitch in needleposition middle

For all sewing work

For topstitching

For flat felled seams

For flat felled seams

Multiple usese.g. for buttonholes

For sewing denseor broad pleats onvalances etc.

For cording

For sewingpatchwork partsand quilting

For hemming edges

For materialswhich are difficult to feed(e.g. leather)

For hemming edges

For hemming edges

For binding edgeswith bias tape

For sewing togetherknitwear

For sewing leather

The following pages contain application examples of some optional accessory feet.

43


Binding with bias tape is a very easymethod of giving fabric edges a smoothand neat appearance. For this you needunfolded bias tape about 1’ (24 mm) wide.

• Remove the presser toot and holder. Attach the bias binder.

• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at adiagonal.

• Feed the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull out to the back.

• Adjust the binder and/or the needle position so that the needle pierces thefabric approximately 1/16” (1-1.5 mm)from the folded edge of the bias tape.

• Stitch about 1,’ (2.5 cm) along the biastape.

With the ruttIer you can make closely orwidely spaced pleats automatically whilesewing. This is very useful for ruffles, frills,home textiles, etc.

The ruttIer can be used in three differentways:

1. Folding and securing pleats in fabric.

2. Folding pleats in fabric and securing toa second fabric in one operation.

3. Folding pleats in fabric, attaching laceand securing to another fabric in oneoperation.

When you buy the ruttIer from your PFAFFdealer, full operating instructions are included.

• Insert the edge of the fabric to be boundbetween the bias tape edges into theslot of the binder. The bias tape willenclose the raw edge automatically during sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional decorative effect by using a zigzag or fancystitch.

Bias tape binder Ruffler

44


Felling footFlat felled seams are particularly strong

and are commonly known as jeans

seams. Seams on sportswear and chil

dren’s wear, blouses and shirts are more

durable with this technique. You can make

these seams particularly decorative by us

ing a sewing thread of a contrasting color.

The felling foot is available in two different

widths.

• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot

holder.

• Place the fabrics wrong sides together.

• Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by

about3f8to5/8(1-1.5cm).

Place this overlapping edge over the

tongue of the felling foot. The fabric

must be placed fully under the presser

foot.

Sew along the folded edge with a

straight stitch (stitch length 2.5-3 mm).

• Separate the fabric and feed the pro

truding hem into the felling foot. The

hem is turned over by the foot and is

overstitched along the edge. Pull the

two fabric layers taut during sewing.

2,$

-

Cording footCording is a technique in which pearl

thread or a fine cord is overstitched to

produce a purl seam. With this you can

obtain an effect similar to braiding. Ap

pliqués can also be made more effective

with this seam.

• Attach the cording foot.

• Place the pearl thread in the foot so it

leads through one of the grooves at the

front and lies under the presser foot at

the back.

• Select a narrow satin zigzag stitch,stitch A1 with the pattern adjustment

button (9).

Overstitch the pearl thread with a nar

row satin zigzag stitch. This produces

what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable

effect by overstitching a medium pear!

thread with a thread of a different color.

45

I

.

Knit-edge footAs the knit-edge foot has a presser footsole of varying height, thick knitted fabricscan be sewn with ease. To do so selectthe zigzag stitch. In order to obtain aperfect seam on knit fabrics, we recommend oversewing a wool thread, pulledslightly taut, into the seam. This will givethe seam additional strength and keep itfrom stretching out of shape.

‘5.5

Quilt and patchwork footThe quilt and patchwork foot allows youto sew accurate 1/4 or 1/8” seams. Thedistance from the needle to the outer rightedge of the foot is 1/4” (0.63 cm) and tothe inner right edge 1/8’ (0.31 cm).

Patching

Attach the quilt and patchwork foot.

Sew together your pieces of fabric withthe straight stitch. For a seam allowanceof 1/4”. guide your fabric along the outerright edge of the foot. For a seam allowance of 1/8”. guide your fabric along theinner right edge of the foot.

Quilting(Sewing through the top layer, fleece layerand bottom layer of the quilt)

• Sew the three layers of the quilt (e.g.with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mmfrom the seam line.

,4ceesso,’ic, and need1e.

46

,4ccecsoriiy and needles

Need’e chart

Selection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material

Fabric weight Fabric weight Fabric weight

light medium heavy

Needle Needle Needle

60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120

Needle points

System & No. Profile Point and eye Suitable for

130/705 H Light Universal needle for linen, chiffon,

Needle size 70/80 ball point batiste, organdy, woolens. velvet.

fancy seams and embroidery.

130/705 H-SUK Medium Coarse knitted fabrics. Lastex. double-

Needle size 70/110 ball point knit, jersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex.

130/705 H-PS Medium Stretch-fabric needle particularly

Needle size 75+90 ball point suitable for stretch and knitted fabrics.

130/705 H-SK1 ____— Large Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex

Needle size 70/110 ball point arid Lastox.

130/705 HJ __— Sharp Twill, workwear, heavy linen-fabrics,

Needle size 90-110 round point blue jeans, light canvas and sailcloth.

130/705 H-LR Narrow twist Leather, suede, calf goat skin.

Needle size 70-120 point (right)

130/705 H-PCL Narrow wedge Imitation leather, plastics,

Needle size 80-1 10 point (left)) foils and oilcloth.

130 H-N Light ball Topatitching with buttonhole silk or

Needle size 70-110 point with synthetic threads no. 30/3.long eye

1301705 H-WING _..... Hemstitching Effective hemstitching on batiste,

Needle size 100 point organdy and glass cambric.

130/705 H-E Medium Especially for embroidery.

Needle size 75/90 —wEFE bail point

1301705 H-O Small Top-stitched seams for quilting.

Needle size 75 EEEE ball point

130/705 H-M — Sharp For working on microtex fiber.

Needle size 60-80 z round point

47


Needle chart

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for

q spacing

130/705 H-ZWI 2.5mm 1.6mm normal pintucks

Size: 80 2,5 mm 2.0 mm normal pintucks

130/705 H-ZW1Size: 80 2.5 mm 2.5 mm wide pintucks

Size: 90 2.5 mm 3.0 mm extra wide

Size: 100 3,0 mm 4.0 mm pintucks

Fancy patterns with twin needles

Before sewing the desired embroidery stitches, check whether needles can penetrate

freely, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as

possible.

p Ornamental stitch patterns I zigzag patterns

JJ Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable forspacing

Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm wide 1.6 mm embroidery

Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.0 mm embroidery

Size: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.5 mm embroidery

Hem stitch I special twin needle

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable forspacing

130/705H-ZWI-HOSize: 80 2.3-3.0 mm verry narrow — Decorative

Size: 100 2.0-3.0 mm verry narrow — hem stitch effect.Well-finishedwoven fabricand tinebatiste areparticularlysuitable

48

Maintenance andtroubleshooting

Changing the sewing lamp 51

Cleaning and oiling 50

Removing the needle plate 51

Troubleshooting 52

49

A4azntenancc wzd troubleshooting

To unlock the hook, fold open the blackbar of the hook race. Take out the bobbincase.

Note: Turn the handwheel (7) until theneedle is at its highest position.

Cleaning and oiling• Clean the hook race with the brush.

• Place one drop of oil into the hook race(every 15-20 hours of operation).

The machine is maintenance-free andmust not be oiled at any other points.

Removing the hook Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.


You can now remove the hook.

50

Wainienance and troubleshooting

Removing the needle plate

Raise the presser foot holder (26) andremove the presser foot. The needle mustbe at its highest position.

• Remove the detachable work support(13). Loosen the two screws with thescrewdriver and lift the needle plate (14).

• Clean the feed dog (22) with the brush.

I

:

Changing the sewing lamp.Switch off the master switch (12).

Remove the detachable work support(13). The sewing lamp (bulb) is locatedinside the needle head of the machine.Turn the bulb half a rotation counterclock-wise and remove the bulb. Insertthe bulb in the reverse order.

Important! The maximum permissiblewattage of the bulb is 15 watts.

5’

Maintenance and troubleshooting

Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/Cause

1. The machine skips stitchesThe needle is not properly inserted.

Wrong needle is in use.Needle is bent or blunt.The machine is not properly threaded.Needle is too small for thread.

2. Needle thread breaksSee reasons above.Thread tension is too tight.Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or hasbecome dry after overlong storage.Thread is too thick.

3. Needle breaks offNeedle is not pushed fully in.Needle is bent.Needle is too thick or too thin.Needle is bent, and has hit the needleplate because you are pullingor pushing the fabric.The bobbin case is not properly inserted,

4. The seam is sewn unevenlyThe tension needs adjusting,Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard.The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.

Thread loops at top or underside of fabric.

6. The machine is running with difficultyThere are thread remnantsin the hook ways.

Remedy

Push needle fully upwards. Flat sidefacing the back.Use needle system 130/705 H.Insert a new needle.Check how the machine is threaded.Use a larger needle.

See above.Adjust thread tension.Only use good quality threads.

Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).

Insert new needle and push fully in.Insert new needle.See needle table (Page 59, 60).Only guide the fabric lightly.

When you insert the bobbin case,push it fully into the stop.Pull lightly on the end of the thread tomake sure bobbin case is secure.

Check needle and bobbin thread tensions.Only use good quality threads.Do not wind thread by hand.Make sure thread is pulled solidly intobobbin tension spring.Re4hread machine.Check the needle and bobbin threadtensions.

Remove the threads and apply a dropof oil to the hook.

Important notes:Before changing presser feet and needle the master switch must be switched off.

Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot.

When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the master switch.This is important if there are any children nearby

5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularlySewing lint has collected between Remove needle plate,the feed dog teeth rows, remove lint with brush.

52

TechncaI Data

Dimensions (w x h x d) 392 x 149 x 296 mm

Weight 6,6 kgNominal voltage 120 V / 220.240 VPower consumption 80 WSewing lamp 15WSewing speed max. 900 stitches / mm.

Stitching width max. 5 mmStitching length max. 4 mmPresser foot lift 5 mmMax. presser foot height 11,5 mmNeedle system 130 / 705 H

Package contents

Sewing machineFoot controlLead cordAccessoriesInstruction manual

pfaff 2$ pfaff - pfaff - home · needle charts 47-48 sewing feet (normal accessories) 42 needle...

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