--the battle record #1

8/14/2019 --The Battle Record #1

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The Online Warhammer

40k Magazine


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This is the first issue of The Battle Record! Allof us here on the team hope that you enjoyand learn from this new magazine stuffed withall good hobby, gaming and tactic articles.

This is issue is a massive... pages long andconsists of...

Name of Staff Member JobSimon Thornton Founder, Writer, Editor

Tim Davis Artist, Writer, Editor

Rune Reins Writer, Editor

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A Desk The first thing that any serious hobbyist needs

to buy (or acquire) is an area where you canpaint, glue and convert. This usually takesphysical form in a desk! Choosing a desk isnot difficult so long as you have the space forit. Simply dont buy anything expensive; itsgoing to take a beating! Whether its frompaint, glue, knife scratches or water spills your

desk will inevitably get damaged eventually.This is why you must take the time to look fora cheap desk from Wal-Mart, Ikea or anotherhuge retailer.

If you do not have space for a full desk then itis worth considering one of the GW (GamesWorkshop) Paint Stations. It has a space forpaintbrushes, water cups and a shelf forminiatures or paints. The downside of them is

that they clutter way too fast!

Painting Supplies After you have bought your desk and have

created an environment that suits you, youshould buy some painting and modellingsupplies. Modelling is not so hard to cater for;all you need is some super glue, a hobbyknife, cutting pad, hobby drill, plastic glue,clippers and some green stuff (we will cover GSin later issues). Purchasing painting supplies

however cannot be rushed and you must findthe tools that suit you so that your army is aswell painted as you can make it. Most peoplefind the Games Workshop tools fine to beginwith and some even use their tools after a fewyears of experience.

Paint Brushes This is the most useful tool that you will ever

purchase and if you take good care of a greatbrush it will last a very long time and will bemore enjoyable to use. A good brush will giveyou more control over where you apply thepaint and how much you apply to where you

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want it.

One simple thing to remember is too never washyour brush with hot or warm water! This will loosenthe substance which holds the hairs onto the metalpart and will result in the bristles coming off!Needless to say, we dont want that. When looking

to buy a brush you mustn't judge how good thebrush is by how good the models are that are soldin the same shop. Often they do not pay as muchattention to their brushes as they do to theirmodels.

The best paint brushes for miniatures aremade by Windsor Newton they do however costquite some money so please take care of it if youdo buy one. If you cannot purchase one of these

brushes and can only buy a miniature companiesbrush buy a Reaper Miniatures brush. They are (inshort) the best. When purchasing a brush beprepared to spend a lot of time searching for theright one and make sure it is the best available inyour price range.

Paint Most people prefer to use citadel (GW) paints,

this is mostly because they are the mostavailable paints and are often referred to inhow to paint... articles. When using thesepaints (or any other miniature) paints always

water them down until they are at theconsistency of milk. This will result in smoothpaint jobs with no streaks or splodges.Remember also to shake each paint potthoroughly before use; this will make sure thatthe paint does not separate.

The other paint company that you might hearof is Vallejo. They are (to put it simply) justanother brand of miniature paint. Some people

say that they are of better quality, othersdisagree. Really all that you have to know isthat they are different companies. Trying bothis the only way that you can find out which youprefer.

-Si-

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http://www.winsornewton.com/main.aspx?PageID=115http://www.winsornewton.com/main.aspx?PageID=115


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April and May sees the long awaited release ofCodex Daemons. First of all we must clarifythat Daemons cannot be used in the sameforce as Chaos Space Marines. They cannot allywith chaos unless you are playing anapocalypse game.

Overall the models are great! They are wellsculpted and do look quite convincing,however many gamers are still not sure howthis new codex will fit into the Warhammer40k universe. A new codex is always excitingthough! At present nobody knows muchinformation about the codex so I will stopblabbering on and will show some pictures!

-Si-



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Youve all seen the unmistakable Fish of fury tactic. Canreally hurt when youre on the receiving end of it, cantit?

Or when you use it. You deal a deadly blow into enemylines, striking where they are weakest and presumablycrumbling there battle plans.

Im here to help you improve this tactic; to make itharder, meaner, deadlier and any other words you canassociate with death.

Firstly we have our bog standard squad of Fire warriors.In my eyes they are pants, I field a mere six in my armybut for this tactic to work, we need twelve. Or maybeeight; even numbers are better for working out halfstrength and objective snatching.

Now if your going to have Fire warriors in your army theleast you can do is equip them properly for all thehorrors of the fore coming battle theyre about to fight.I equip mine with their standard issue Pulse rifle, nicestrength, range and AP. Sure you can equip some withCarbines, true they have pinning but they are only

assault 1, two shots are always better than one in myeyes.

So youve got your weapon, next comes your leader, the+1 attack and Leadership are totally worth the points,so take him for this tactic. Next comes his wargear; ashe can select equipment from the armory I usually givehim an EMP grenade. This little trick is often overlookedand people give their entire squads EMP grenades, onesenough, if youre that close to the enemy to be able topoke their tank then your Hammerheads/Broadsides aredoing something drastically wrong. While were on thesubject of grenades I usually give the rest of the squadPhoton grenades, the no charging attack benefit reallyhelps in a pickle. I dont bother with the bonding knife,

if you have the points its fine but the points can bespent elsewhere. This usually comes to 145pts, not badfor a full squad of twelve Fire warriors with grenadesand leader.As for the Devilfish, whatever your standard setup tendsto be is fine. I usually go for Burst cannon and Drones,Multi tracker, Decoy launchers and Targeting array,100pts maybe?

Two of these squads do it for me; they stick togetherand unload at same time. Now this is the good part,

when you get there dont just pile out your Fire warriorsand shout For the Greater Goodat the top of your lungs.Not going to work. Trust me.When you unload you Fire warriors, unload them on theside of your Devilfish thats furthest away from


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the enemy and hug it, by hug it I mean get as close tothe fish as possible. I dont care if it smells just do it.

By doing this youre giving yourself some majoradvantages.

Youll receive a 4+ cover save from being behind thevehicle (if you dont believe me check your rule book Pg

25 in the table, under 4+, it says Wrecks/Vehicles.) Iveused this at tournaments and never had any argumentsabout it, if you disagree, then its your loss.

By hugging your fish your almost immune to assaults,the enemy have to come all the way around your fish toget you, past the wings or engine without comingwithin an inch of the vehicle. Hell if your hugging itenough they wont be able to assault you without

assaulting the vehicle at the same time.

Have two of these positions next to each other and youhave your own little fortification; you can shoot out, youhave cover from enemy shooting and you are safe fromassault.

-Tim-



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As I am still somewhat new to the world of40K, I wanted to share my first meeting with aForge World resin kit with you. I have over thelast year or so been slowly building my Tauarmy, and have over that period had theopportunity to assemble and paint almost allof Games Workshops Tau models, both plasticand metal. In addition I have been doing a bitof conversion, mainly on my XV-8 CrisisBattlesuits, and by making my own Human

Axillaries for the Tau army.

All the while I have been drooling over thefantastic resin models over at the Forge Worldsite. The Tau especially seem to have a rathergood selection of kits, including the resinBroadsides, the Barracuda air superiorityfighter, the TigerShark fighter-bomber and ofcourse the immense Manta super heavy dropship.

I decided that as a prize I would order somemodels as a reward for myself when I hadfinished building and painting 1500 points ofmy Tau army, and a few months back I finallyreached that point. I started pondering what Iwould order, and seeing as

I had participated in a few apocalypse gamesrecently, I decided on getting a few fliers. Acouple of weeks later I received my kits,including a TigerShark AX-1-0, and I thought Icould give you guys a little peek into what is inthe bag you get from Forge World and a littleof the process of building it.

About the TigerShark A-X-10 The TigerShark are described in the ForgeWord book Imperial Armor 3: The Taros

Campaign, as a Tau aircraft that fits thefighter-bomber role. The TigerShark isdescribed as being faster and moremaneuverable than it's Imperial counterparts(mainly the Marauder bomber), but lacking thelarger bomb payload the Imperial aircraft has.

The model I'm going to review and assemblehere is the A-X-1-0 variant, armed with twinlinked heavy railguns instead of the lighter ioncannons, and drone rack of the standardTigerShark.



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Going over your kit After receiving your kit I would recommend looking it

over, making sure all the parts are included, and thatnone of them have obvious warping or are miscast inany way. If parts are missing or damaged you shoulduse this opportunity to contact Forge World forreplacements before doing anything else.

I would recommend putting the parts out on a table andgoing over the part-list that should be included as you

might be tempted to start working on the kit right away,and might miss any damaged or missing parts.

Cleaning and getting the model ready for assemblyI used the following tools for the cleaning process:

Modeling Knife (make sure to use a new and sharpblade)

Cutting pad

Fine grade sanding paper

Files (I used the GW ones, but I guess any fine file willdo)

Razor sawAll parts were then cleaned up, sanded (wherenecessary) and washed. Some of them had quite biglumps of resin and other flash that that to be removed. Iused a razor-saw for the big parts, hobby knife, filesand sanding paper were used to create a smooth finishafter removing excess resin, This part of the process isnot especially hard, but requires patience and goodtools.


Then the parts were washed with lukewarm water anddish washing liquid using a toothbrush.

In fact I left them in the water overnight, as I had heardrumors that the "release-oils" that it Forge Word uses intheir molds can be hard to get of the models. Even afterdoing this I still did not feel secure that all the partswere totally clean, so I did another round of washing tomake sure. I know this might sound a bit excessive, buthaving paint flakes fall off your finished model afterspending hour upon hour on it, did not appeal to me.

So this is the list of parts that comes with themodel:

1: Fuselage2: Railgun halves (x4)3: Wing Tips (x2)4: Drone Domes (x2)5: Drone Base (x2)6: Burst Cannon (x2)7: Small Engine Exhaust (x2)8: Starboard Tail Fin (from the picture provided this seems tobe the other large engine exhaust mount, so this listingseems to be an error, and from pictures provided on the ForgeWorld website the model does not seem to have any tail finsat all.)9: Large Engine Exhaust Mount10: Large Engine Exhaust (x2)11:Rear Undercarriage Doors (x2)12: Front Undercarriage Doors (x2)13: Rear Undercarriage Legs (x2)14: Front Undercarriage Legs (x2)15: Sensor Vanes (x2)16: Seeker Missile Bay17: Seeker Missile Tips (x2) - (two sprues containing 3 tipseach)18: Markerlight Turret Mount19: Markerlight Turret

20: Markerlight Turret Peg21: Networked Markerlight22: Cockpit23: Cockpit Canopy24: Cockpit Hatch25: Crew (x2 Air Caste Pilots)26: Disruption Pods


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Assembly The model were then partly assembled, using

Super Glue, and Greenstuff.

I believe that with a resin kit like this you have tobe aware that parts may not fit completely, andthat you may have to do a bit of filing and

greenstuffing to make fit parts, or fill cracks. Forthis I used GW greenstuff, and a sculpting tool, Itis especially important to keep your tool moistwhen working, or else the greenstuff will stick tothe tool, making it impossible to get a smoothfinish. It can also help to let the greenstuff cure forup to half an hour, making it harder and less stickybefore using the sculpting tool to smooth it down.After the greenstuff has set completely you can

use fine grade sanding paper to remove anyresidue or rough edges before priming the model.

As mentioned earlier you should also be awarethat parts can be miscast or warped, and these arenot easily repaired by your average modeler. Thebest way to solve this problem would be to emailForge World, or better yet phone them up anddescribe the problem, and get a replacement

piece. From what I have read FW is very customerfriendly and hopefully they will help you replacethe warped piece quickly.

Here is a picture of the model so far, as you can see Ihave assembled parts of the model, still I'll try to givea walk trough of the parts and assembly:

1: is the Wing Tips, these were easy to fit, but needed a quite bit offiling and greenstuffing to fill in the gaps.

2: The drone-controlled burst cannons, each come in tree parts (4, 5and 6 on the above list), and went in their pods easily after a bit of

cleaning. I have not glued them in, and they can still be turnedaround or removed.

3: The Small Engine Exhaust, both parts required quite a bit of sawing,filing and sanding, and still left gaps, but that was nothing that couldnot be fixed with greenstuff and a little patience.

4: The Large Engine Exhausts inside their Mounts (so each exhaustconsists of two parts (9 and 10 on the list above). These required quitea bit of work as well.


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5: The Cockpit, consisting of the main part (with seating andcontrols for the two pilots), two air-caste crew, and the hatchthat is in two parts as well (Canopy and Hatch). The wholecockpit can be removed for when the pilots launch theirescape pod.

6: The Railguns - both are quite a bit bigger than a Hammerheadrailgun, and comes in two parts (just like the Hammerheadgun). Very easy assembly.

7:The Markerlight Turret Mount, with the turret and the NetworkedMarkerlight glued in, no problems here. Consists of 4 parts(18, 19, 20 and 21).

8: Rear Undercarriage Legs and Doors, a bit cleaning up andremoving of flash, but no major work required

9: Front Undercarriage Legs and Doors, same as their rearcounterparts

10: Sensor Vanes, not much to do here (removed a little residueresin, and sanded).

11: The Seeker Missile Bay with the 6 Seeker Tips inserted, the tipscame on sprues containing 3, and needed a bit of work beforeI fitted them, they were marked 1,2, and 3 and the bay hadcorresponding numbers to ease the assembly. Mine did notperfectly fit, so I had to use a bit of greenstuff and some workto make them look right, but nothing that required any realwork.

Here are some more pictures, to show the size ofthe AX-1-0 in relation to other Tau models:


Here the fuselage is showed next to a Vespid.

The TigerShark starship graderailgun in comparison to aHammerhead railgun.


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The next step will be to start priming the model,and decide on a paint scheme, I will also startworking on a base as soon as I get the parts I planto use (no base is included with the kit).

Hope this may be of help to members who thinkabout purchasing this model from Forge World.

-Rune-


Here you see a close up of the Cockpit/Escape Pod withthe two Air Caste Pilots inside, you can also see aunassembled Drone Burst Cannon (in 3 parts).

--the battle record #1

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