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Student Reference

on

FLORAL CROP PRODUCTION

for

Specialized Curriculum

in

Horticulture

Student Reference Number Eleven

Floyd G. McCormick

Richard C. Sawyer

Department of Agricultural Education

The University of Arizona

Tucson

October, 1978

Revised August, 1980

Reprinted August 1988

FOREWORD

This publication is one of a series of student references

developed to complement the Specialized Curriculum in Horti

culture. The primary purpose of this publication is to serve

as a reference for students studying Floral Crop Production.

The significant value of this publication is that the in

formation on the horticultural subject matter in question is

contained in one basic student reference. This is not to infer

that additional references, such as textbooks, bulletins, etc.,

should not be utilized to supplement instruction. From an ed

ucational standpoint, students learn more and better when they

glean information and acquire knowledge from several related

sources. In addition, there is significant educational value

for students by having them read and study pertinent reference

material as they “dig out” answers to questions and/or solve

problems identified by their teachers.

It is anticipated that teachers of agriculture will find

the student reference on Floral Crop Production, a valuable aid

to assist them in providng meaningful instruction.

Floyd G. McCormickProfessorDepartment of AgriculturalEducation

University of ArizonaTucson

Richard C. SawyerTeacher of AgricultureWestwood High SchoolMesa, Arizona

ii

CACKNOWLEDGEMENTS r

The Student Reference on Floral Crop Production for [the Specialized Curriculum in Horticulture has been developed

through the efforts of many individuals. [1

Synthesis of the original draft was compiled by rMr. Richard Sawyer, Teacher of Vocational Agriculture, t.Westwood.

A critical review and evaluation of the material con

tained in this publication was made by the following Arizona

teachers of agriculture:

Andy Groseta — Amphitheater [Richard Meder - Washington

Ron Mehrer — Kofa [Robert Rusk — Tucson

Final editing of this publication was completed by CMr. Don K. Lindsey and Dr. Floyd G. McCormick of the

Department of Agricultural Education, University of Arizona. [CCr

[CC

iii [

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

FOREWORD

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

OPERATIONAL PHASES

Wholesale GrowersCommission HousesRetail Florists

CULTURAL PRACTICES

Potted Plant ManagemenPropagatingBenchingSoil MixturesContainers .

FertilizingWateringTemperaturePinchingDisbudding .

Growth RegulatorsPest Control

Cut Flower ManagementHarvesting .

GradingStoringDeterioration

Bedding Plant ManagementTimingSoil Mixtures .

SeedingLabelingWateringContainersFertilizingTransplanting .

TemperaturesGrowth Regulators

ii

iii

iv

12

4

445567

101111121212

1314141515

1616181920202122222324

233

t

iv

House Plant CareContainersTemperaturesLightingWateringHumidityFertilizingPest Control

POINSETTIA CULTURE

Varieties .

Growing PlanFlower DescriptionPhotoperiodSoil MixtureFertilizingTemperatureGrowth RegulatorsGrowing ProblemsShipping and HandlHome Care .

CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE

VarietiesGrowing Plan .

Flower DescriptionPhotoperiod .

Soil Mixture .

PottingFertilizing .

Temperature .

PinchingGrowth RegulatorsDisbuddingGrowing ProblemsShipping and HandlingHome Care

APPENDIX A

Flowering Pot Plants

APPENDIX B

Pot Plant ProductionAfrican VioletAzaleaGeranium .

Coleuscyclamen .

Caladium .

Hydrangea .

Rose

2525262626272728

28

2830313233333535373939

606163656667687072

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ing

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57

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APPENDIX C

Cut Flower ProductionCarnationsChrysanthemumRoseSnapdragons .

House Plant Growing Conditions

The University of Arizona is an Equal Employment Opportunity/AWl, ,n,iliw, Action Employer, In compliance with Title IX(Etlitcattonal Amendments of 1972) and Title VI) Civil Rights Act ci19641. and Section 504 (Rehabilitation Act of 1973). the Universitydoes not discriminate on the basis ci sex. race, creed, color, nationalorigin, or handicapping condition in its educational programs oractivities, including admissions and employment. Inquiries concerningapplication of Title IX, Title VII. and Section 504 may be referred tothe Affirmative Action Officer.

APPENDIX D

Storage of Cut Flowers

APPENDIX E

Common House Plants

APPENDIX F

- . .7374767879

81

84

96

105LIST OF REFERENCES

vi

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FLORAL CROP PRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

Floriculture deals with propagating, growing, managing,

and distributing flowering and foliage plants. The floral

industry is only one facet of horticulture. It is believed

to have had its beginning in the early part of the 19th

century near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Philadelphia, at

that time, was considered the social center of the United States.

The need for floral arrangements for special social occasions

brought about the beginning of the production of floral crops.

At first, these crops were grown outdoors. Their quality

was very poor, and the limited varieties grown depended upon

the climate. Gradually, as the need and demand increased

for flowers, the commercial flower growers began to consider

the production of flowers inside. With the construction of

the first greenhouse, the conanercial floral industry developed

very rapidly. At first, the conunercial growers sold their

crops directly to the consumer. The development was so rapid

that retail stores came into being. These stores sold only

flowers. This evolution of the industry finally brought

about the separation of the grower and the florist.

The great expansion of the floral industry, to its present

position, is the result of ever increasing demands for flowers

for all occasions. These demands were stimulated by the

introduction of new varieties grown in the greenhouse, better

quality flowers, and the actual presentation to the public

through advertising or various publicity devices. For example,

the Florists’ Telegraph Delivery Association (FTD) has promoted

the use of flowers with the use of the Society of American

Florists advertising slogan, “Say it with Flowers”.

—1—

In spite of the belief that flowers are a luxury, economicdepressions have failed to affect the floral industry. Flowersfor specific occasions are not a luxury, but a necessity. LThe possibility of expansion and use of flowers in the future ris very promising especially when it is realized only 10 percentof the buying public ever purchase commercially—grown flowers.If this figure could be increased to 25 percent of the buying çpublic, the sale of flowers would be increased at least twofold. Through the use of additional advertising and theimprovement in flower varieties, this figure could be reached.

Most floral crops are more sensitive to changing growingconditions, such as light, heat, water, and plant nutrientsthan are most other agricultural crops. Since these conditionsdo not occur ideally out of doors in most parts of our country,the ideal growing conditions must be obtained in greenhouses.In addition, some areas of our country are more suitablefor greenhouses due to existing natural conditions. This iswhy we see so many floral greenhouses in California, Colorado,and Florida and so few in Arizona.

Except for foliage plants, floral crops cannot be stored likemost other agricultural products, the sale of the product at theproper tine is extremely important.

OPERATIONAL PHASES CThe floral industry, including the production of foliage

plants, has three definite operation phases. These arewholesale growers, coxifinission houses, and retail florists.

Wholesale Growers

Wholesale growers may specialize in the growing of onlyone crop (carnations, chrysanthemums or roses); grow seasonaldemand crops (Easter lilies, Thanksgiving mums, or Christmas [poinsettias), or produce several crops having a year—rounddemand (African violets or gloxinias). These growers securetheir growing stock from seed producers, cutting propagators,liner stock wholesalers and brokers (conmdssion houses)

—2—

Growers not only receive excellent quality plants through

brokerage firms, but the latest information and crop rotation

schedules.

Wholesale growers sell direct to chain store outlets, jobbers,

and a few sell direct to the retail florists. Most cut flowers,

though, are sold through commission houses to the retail florist.

Foliage plants are sold through jobbers, direct to chain store

outlets, and some sold directly to retailers. Regardless of

the method of selling, wholesale growers must be certain their

crops are being handled properly, priced right, and completely

sold. Flowers must be kept fresh, and sold within a few days

upon arrival at the market, or they will be lost.

Conmjission Houses

The commission or brokerage house acts as a “go—between”

for the wholesale grower and the retail florist. The house

accepts products from wholesale growers usually on consignment

and deducts a commission when the plants are sold. The com

mission averages 20 percent of the selling price. With proper

storage and handling facilities, many brokers can make regular

deliveries to retail flower shops.

Some growers have established their own brokerage firms

to maintain better control over their products. They not only

sell their flowers, but also receive consignment orders from

other growers as well.

Retail Florists

Retail florists are the businesses with which most people

are familiar since they come into contact with them more often.

Most towns have at least one flowershop. Retail florists are

usually in contact with more than one wholesaler (commission,

brokerage house, and jobber). Their trade demands such a

variety of flowers and supplies that not one wholesaler can

supply them with all their needs. The retailer in turn takes

the cut flowers, foliage, and potted plants and creates a

product which the ultimate consumer will buy. The retail

—3—

florist is the final step in a series of businesses involved Iin producing and marketing floral crops.

CULTURAL PRACTICES

Floral crops require specialized cultural practices.

In many cases this involves the use of a greenhouse or

some other protective growing structure. At the present

time, floral crop production is divided into three main

operations:

1. Potted plants (including house plants) t2. Cut Flowers3. Bedding Plants

Potted Plant Management

The production of potted plants is of great economic timportance to the greenhouse operator. It ranks second

only to the production of bedding plants. Thus, operators Cwill obtain a large percentage of their income from the

sale of pot plants grown in the greenhouse. This is

especially true for those producing a variety of crop types.

There are generally two groups of pot plants grown

commercially. These are: flowering plants (See Appendix

A), grown largely for the beauty of their flowers, and

foliage plants (See Appendix E), grown for the perfection

of their foliage. Plants from both groups are used exten

sively in the home.

Propagating: Many potted plant growers concentrate their

efforts on taking established 2 1/4” plants or rooted

cuttings and growing them out for the retail trade. They

do not become involved in the actual propagation of the

plants which they will grow out for sale. The propagation

of such plants is left to a specialized segment of the

growing industry. Plants such as poinsettias, chrysanthe—

muins, azalea, cyclainen, hydrangea, and roses are handled

in this manner. I.

—4—

Other growers prefer to do the complete job themselves

and develop their own propagation houses for this purpose.

The African violet, geranium, coleus, and caladium are often

propagated by their final grower.

Benching: When the established 2 1/4” plants or rooted

cuttings are received by the grower they are potted in their

final pots and placed on the growing benches. In some

cases they are placed next to each other (pot to pot) to

conserve space and labor during their early development.

They are later moved to their final bench spacing.

The figures in Table 1 will be useful to determine

the number of plants that can be grown in a given area.

TABLE 1

Plant Spacing Guide

SPACING AREA SQ.FT./POT PLANT/SQ. FT.

4” x 4” .11 9.006” x 6” .25 4.008” x 8” .44 2.25

10” x 10” .67 1.44

12” x 10” 1.00 1.0015” x 15” 1.56 .5418” x 18” 2.25 .44

Soil Mixtures: It is possible to use the same type of

soil mixture for growing most pot plants. However, this

does not mean that these plants will thrive in the same

soil. Each plant has its own special requirements. Unless

these requirements are met, the plant will not develop

properly. For the greenhouse operator, this is very impor

tant since there is a very limited market for poorly

developed plants.

—5—

With more and more of our land being used for subur— fban development each year, less soil is available to use

in pot plant production. Also, the quality of the soilvaries. This creates fertilizer, pH level, and otherproblems when different soils are used to pot plants. There— rfore, the use of materials other than soil has become very Limportant in the production of pot plants. Table 2 illustrates one common soil mix used for many potted plants.

There is a more detailed mix described on page 33.

TABLE 2

Pot Plant Growing Mix

1 part Sand

1 part Peatmoss

1 part Vermiculite or Perlite

If desired, the following fertilizerbase may also be added when using 5 Cu ft.of each of the above materials:

Gypsum 5*

Ammonium nitrate 1 3/4*

Potassium nitrate 1 3/4*

Super Phosphate 1 3/4*

Soil Sulfur 1 1/4*

Containers: Although the clay pot is a symbol of the floral {industry, it is the plastic pot that is predominantly used.

The plastic pots are less expensive than the clay pots and

they can utilize valuable greenhouse space more efficiently.

These pots are not porous and Care must be taken in watering.

Rotting of the roots will result if too much water is applied.

Clay pots are still used by some growers. The pots

are porous which allows aeration of the soil and thereby

promotes better root growth of the plant.

-6-

pots made of compressed peatmoss are being used in the

horticultural industry and have had some use in producing

pot plants. However, their principle use is in the production

of bedding plants. These pots allow the roots to grow out

through the sides and are used when the zot plants are to be

shifted into larger pots at a later date.

The size of the pot is very important to assure optimum

plant growth. The standard pot is as wide across the top as

it is tall. So called pans are usually half as high as they

are wide. Three—quarter pots or azalea pots are three—quarters

as high as they are across the top. They are less susceptable

to tipping over since they are normally wider across the bottom.

They also look more balanced when used for such plants as azaleas

or chrysanthemums.

Fertilizing: A complete fertilizer can be added to the soil

mix before potting. However, in some cases, it may cause a

build—up of high salt concentrations. The quality of the

water and its salt content must be considered in the decision

of whether or not to add a complete fertilizer. If a complete

fertilizer is not added to the soil mix it may, however, be

desirable to add phosphorus to the mix since phosphorus does

not move readily through the soil. Usually a 4 inch clay pot

full of super phosphate added to 2 1/2 bushels of soil

is an adequate amount of phosphorus. It must be noted

that each crop has its own specific nutrient requirements.

There is no “one” fertilizer for all crops.

Many growers fertilize pot plants by using a liquid

form of fertilizer. This form is easier to use and will per

mit the grower to fertilize a greater number of plants in a

shorter time. The nutrients are in a solution that can be

used by plants. A commercial liquid fertilizer can be

purchased for use or a liquid mix can be formulated by the

grower. One self—mixed formulAtion is as follows:

—7—

FMix in 5 gallons of water [

2 1/2 lbs. Ammonium nitrate

2 1/2 lbs. Potassium nitrate F8 fl. oz. 75% Phosphoric acid

8 f 1. oz. Liquid Iron (This fertilizer solution should be mixed at the rate of 1

ounce to 1 gallon of water to provide an adequate daily

rate of fertilization for most potted plants in the green

house. If deficiencies of minor elements develop, an ounce Iof a trace element mix can be added to the fertilizer for— Umulation to correct the problem. -

Time and rate of fertilizer application depends on -

the crop. In some cases, a higher concentration is applied

on a weekly basis. If a higher concentration is used the —

soil must be moist to avoid burning the root system. You

should take care not to splash liquid fertilizer onto the

leaves. You should wash the leaves if this happens. Most

growers use the spaghetti system to prevent this (Figure 1). {Some plants, though, can feed through the leaves. Some

growers will use a slow release dry fertilizer, such as rOsmocote, plus foliage feeding.

All coutnercial fertilizers are the result of a chemical

combination of compounds that produce a salt. Therefore,

all fertilizers are salts. These salts can be injurious

to plants if the salts are allowed to build up. The toxic

effects of salts are due to three soil reactions:

a. prevention of water uptake,

b. direct toxic effects that disturbplant metabolism,

c. indirect effect resulting from alteration of the soil structure.

A Solubridge instrument can be used to measure the salts

in a given solution. The readings gained from the instru

ment can be converted to parts per million by multiplying a

L-8- C

conversion factor. The conversion factor for the Model R.D.15 machine is 6.5. The parts per million “read out” can thenbe applied to the following table for an indication of saltbuild up and its effects on the plants.

TABLE 3

Concentration of Soluble Salts on Plant Growth Response

as Determined by SOLUBRIDGE

PPM SOLUBLE SALTS USUAL PLANT GROWTh RESPONSE

325 — 650 ppm Satisfactory level for new plants inpreviously planted soil. This levelon established plants could producevery weak growth; poor color; and weakstems. Plants probably deficient inmost major nutrients.

650 — 975 ppm Plants usually exhibiting nitrogendeficiency. Poor color, weak stems,Any increase in fertilizer would showa marked increase in overall vigorespecially in soil low in organic matter.

975 — 1625 ppm No major deficiencies. Plants appearvigorous in color, leaf size, and stemcaliber especially if this level ofnutrition was acquired and maintainedprior to completion of 60 percent ofthe crops growing cycle. Usually therange of most efficient and economicfertilization for chrysanthemum andcarnations.

1625 — 1900 ppm Maximum salinity for optimum cropgrowth. Crops grown at this level mustbe frequently checked for root injury.

1900 — ppm and up Definite injury to crop will result inthe form of root injury and marginalleaf burn. Plants may actually havethe appearance of being deficientin nutrients and water as the resultof the system not functioning properlydue to restricted uptake.

—9—

Watering: The root ball of most potted plants should be keptmoist while in the greenhouse. This means that a daily wateringschedule is a necessity during periods of high temperature andhigh light intensity. A 6 inch pot will require approximately1/2 pint of water at each irrigation.

Since watering requires much time, many automated systemshave been developed to help the grower cut expenses. One suchsystem uses 1/8 inch diameter (spaghetti) tubing leading toeach pot (Figure 1). Automation can be accomplished withthe use of a time clock or water scale.

C

JEC

Ct.C

Fig. 1. — — Spaghetti Tube System

(Courtesy: Brighton By—Products Co., NewBrighton, PA)

C-10- [

Temperature: The temperature of the growing house must beadequately controlled. Many plants respond to temperaturesin a narrow range, above or below which budaing or floweringmay be delayed or completely stopped.

Night temperatures are often kept 10 to 15 degrees lowerthan day time temperatures to obtain a better growth responsefrom the plants.

Pinching: Some plants have the natural ability to branch and

produce many flowers. Others must be pinched to force the

plant to branch out.

Pinching involves removing the-terminal bud (Figure 2)so the lateral buds can develop and grow from the axils of

the upper leaves. From 4 to 6 branches may be produced. If

the plant is growing well at the time of the pinch and if the

pinch is made in new growth, the leaves inunediately below the

pinch enlarge greatly.

Top pinched out

Nei.i branchesdevelop inAxis of leaves

Fig. 2. — — Pinching

—11—

Disbudding: The process of removing all but the terminal bud

from a stem is known as disbudding (Figure 3). It is used

so each stem produces a single large flower. Crops such as [chrysanthemums and carnations are disbudded as part of their

growing procedure.

Terminal budlefton f

Lateral budsremoved

CFig. 3. - — Disbudding

Growth Regulators: Certain plants develop too much “stretch’.

They are simply a little too tall or “spindly” to be in good

proportion with the pot in which they are grown. Treatment

with growth regulators at the right stage(s) will shorten

the stems, giving a better appearance. Several growth regu

lators such as B—Nine, Cycocel, A—Rest, and Phosfon—D are

on the market. The choice of which one to use depends on

the crop being grown. The grower must read the label before [making any applications.

Pest Control: Potted plants are acceptable, in the retail

market,only if they are free of blemishes. Controlling insects

and diseases before they can cause damage to the flowers

and foliage is important.

L.Weeds and trash are breeding places for a number of pests.

These sources of infestation must be eliminated by destroying

weeds under benches and in all other areas. The prevention

of pests before they attack the plants will reduce, if not

—12—

completely eliminate, the expense, time, and effort of con

trolling them after they become established. Spraying or dusting

the plants when they are small, and before pests appear, is an

accepted standard preventive control measure in greenhouses.

Once pests appear some damage to the crop will occur. Repeated

applications of the pesticide will have to be made, and more

labor will be required.

The specific control measure depends upon the pest involved

and the severity of the damage. The grower must read the label

of each chemical used and apply only those chemicals which

specifically state they are to be used for the crop being grown

and the pest being controlled.

Cut Flower Management

The production of flowers for sale as cut—flowers provides

a large part of the income in greenhouse operations. Because

cut flowers are colorful living things, they have great appeal

to many people. The market for these flowers includes weddings,

funerals, home and other uses. The wholesale value of cut

flowers in the United States is about 200 million dollars annually.

Roses are the most popular cut flowers. They are also

the most difficult to grow. Cut roses are grown by a relatively

small number of specialists in large greenhouse ranges, usually

covering several acres. Chrysanthemums are next in popularity,

followed by carnations, gladiolus, snapdragons, and orchids.

Spray—type chrysanthemums and gladiolus are grown by some

specialists.

Most cut flowers are grown in greenhouse beds; however,

in some of the milder areas of the country they are grown in

the field.

When grown in the greenhouse, most of the cultural prac

tices are similar to those used for pot plant production.

For general discussion of propagating, soil procedures, fer

tilizing, watering, temperature control, plant treatments,

and pest control refer to the preceding section under potted

—13—

rplant management. r

Specific growing recoimnendations for cut flower cropscan be found in Appendix C. FHarvesting: It is frequently said that one—third of a cutflower’s life is determined by preharvest environment. Toensure that the consumer receives maximum quality flowers;care must be taken in the harvesting, grading, bunching, andstoring of the product.

When harvesting, the flowers are generally cut at theyoungest stage of development feasible. Most harvesting

is done in the afternoon when carbohydrate supply is at amaximum in the plant. However, some are harvested in theearly morning. Flowers should be cut with a sharp knife

to avoid crushing the water—conducting cells.

Inunediately after cutting, place the flowers in 100° F

clean water in which a preservative has been added. Remove

from the greenhouse as soon as possible. Hold the cut flowers

in water with preservative at 35—45° F before grading and packing

and again before shipping. This warm water, cold storage

treatment causes the flowers to harden and makes the plants

turgid for shipping. They should be held in this condition [for a minimum of 4—6 hours. Ideally, flowers should be kept

in water throughout the marketing process. However, present

transportation and marketing methods do not readily allow for

this practice to be followed.

Grading: During the grading process, flowers must be handled

gently to avoid bruising and breakage. All danaged flowers

should be removed in the grading process. The Society of

American Florists has developed grading standards for many

of the conunonly grown cut flower crops. These standards

should be followed to ensure a uniform crop.

Most flowers are bunched in units of 13 or 25 and wrapped

in waxpaper. They are wrapped in such a manner to keep the

blooms from tangling. Polyethylene tubes are becoming popular

for wrapping cut flowers.

—14—

Storing: When storing flowers, they are usually kept at 33_4Q0 F

when in water or at 31—32° F when dry packed (stored in boxes

or drums to hold in moisture) . When dry pack storing, care

must be taken not to freeze the flowers. Most flowers freeze

at 28_3l0 F. In addition to temperature, the relative humidity

must be carefully maintained. It should be kept at 90—95%. At

70—80% humidity, many flower petals become so dehydrated

(desicated) that their sale potential is lowered.

See Appendix D for recommendations on storing specific

cut flowers.

Deterioration: During the normal processes of harvesting,

grading, bunching, and storing many factors can cause deteriora

tion of the floral product. Some of the major causes of

deterioration are:

1. Normal respiration — the stored carbohydrates are

gradually depleted; therefore, shortening the life

of the flower. Refrigerated storage rooms reduce

respiration.

2. Post—harvest diseases — reduced by refrigeration.

3. Normal maturation — the stage of maturity at the time

of harvest is critical.

4. Wilting — anytime the original weight is reduced by

10%, the flower is no longer suitable for sale.

High levels of humidity in storage rooms can counter

act this process.

5. Bruising and Crushing — direct damage in the handling

of the flowers.

6. Color change — proper refrigeration tends to overcome

this problem.

7. Ethylene gas damage — warner temperatures enhance the

formation of ethylene. Do not store flowers with

fruits and/or vegetables.

As noted in the above list, there are many causes of flower

deterioration however, these causes or problems can be reduced

by special care during handling, grading, bunching, and storing

of the flowers. It is to the grower’s, the wholesaler’s, and

—15—

Ithe retailer’s advantage to exercise care in the managementof the cut flower product. Proper care will provide the con—sujuer with the best product possible.

Bedding Plant Management [The term “bedding plants” originally referred to plants

grown for elaborately designed flower beds. They were plantedeach spring around private homes and in public parks in theearly 1900’s. f

Actually, today it would be more accurate to call theseplants “flower and vegetable transplants”. Most bedding plants,such as petunias, salvias, tomatoes, and peppers are started

from seed because this is the most economical method. Geraniumsand a few others are usually started from cuttings.

Bedding plants are conunonly called the “bread and butter”crop for the greenhouse grower. These plants can be produced

in all sections of the country. They continue to be the back— [bone of the retail grower’s program. Bedding plant production

leads all other types of production in the greenhouse. fTiming: Generally, those plants produced from seed are removed

from their bench flat when they produce their first true leaves.

This process is called “pricking out”. They are then placed

in small peat pots or pony pacs and allowed to grow until they

are large enough for sale.

The time of planting annuals in the greenhouse varies

greatly. The varieties or kind of plants, along with the sectionof the country, makes it very necessary for the greenhouse

operator to plant on schedule. The date of the last killing

frost must be determined so plants can be ready for transplanting [by the gardener at the right time.

In Arizona, bedding plants are planted for two seasons of

growth: (1) the fall—winter—spring and (2) the spring—sununer

period. The plants usually require 2—4 weeks from seeding until

“pricking—out” and then another 4—6 weeks before selling to

—16—

customers. The fall sales period in Southern Arizona starts

around September 15th after the extreme heat of the suimner has

begun to subside. However, successful plantings may be made

earlier if proper shading and watering are provided. The

spring sales period starts soon after the chance of frost has

passed, usually around the end of February.

Some of the more common bedding plants,

germination and temperature requirements, are

TABLE 4

along with their

found in Table 4.

Flowering Bedding Plants

SEEDSCROP PER OZ. GERMINATES TEMP

Aperatum 200,000 3 wks 65—75°

African Daisy 30,000 2 wks 65—75°

Alyssum 90,000 2 wks 65—75°

Aster 12,000 2—3 wks 65—75°

Calendula 3,000 2—3 wks 65—75°

Candytuft 9,500 1—3 wks 65—75°

Carnation 25,000 2—3 wks 65—75°

Celcaia 28,000 1—2 wks 65—75°

Coleus 100,000 2—3 wks 70—80°

Cornflower 7,000 2—4 wks 65—75°

Cosmos 5,000 2—4 wks 65—75°

Dahlia 2,800 2—3 wks 65—75°

Gaillardia 14,000 2—3 wks 65—75°

Impatiens 60,000 3—4 wks 70—75°

Larkspur 2—3 wks 65—75°

Lobelia 700,000 2—3 wks 65—70°

Marigold 10,000 1—2 wks 65—70°

Nasturtium 175 2—3 wks 65—70°

Pansy 20,000 2—3 wks 65—70°

Periwinkle 21,000 2—3 wks 65—70°

Petunia 285,000 1—2 wks 65—75°

Phlox 14,000 2—3 wks 65—75°

Portulaca 280,000 2—3 wks 65—75°

—17—

CThe specific container used depends upon the availability

and the market acceptance in the area in which the plants

are sold.

Fertilizing: Proper fertilizing results in strong, fast

growing seedlings that transplant with less shock than those

that have not been properly fertilized. The application of

a 1/2—strength soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus (a 9—45— g15, for example) just as the seeds are germinating will

result in a more even stand of plants with dark green leaves. FThis is often called a “starter solution.” This fertilizer,

at the same rate, should be applied to the seedlings about 172-3 days before transplanting. This results in plants that

are less sensitive to shock and thus will start growing rfaster after being transplanted. La

Once the transplanting of the seedling to their final

containers has been accomplished a stronger fertilizer solution

should be applied. The “constant feed” program is often used

since it can be accomplished as the watering is being done. UFor this, a 200 ppm N rate is used. An injection device is

used for this purpose. Fertilizer may be applied on a weekly

basis. If this is the case, 2 ounces of a 20—20—20 water

soluble fertilizer should be dissolved in 2 1/2 gallons of

water. This is applied directly to the plants. If the ferti

lizer is applied at 2—week intervals, the amount per 2 1/2

gallons is doubled to 4 ounces. Is

Transplanting: Seedlings should be transplanted when the “true”

leaves are expanding. It must be done at precisely the right

stage of seedling growth or damage to plants will delay their

growth. The first leaves to appear are the “seed” leaves, or

cotyledons. The next leaves to appear have the typical shape

of the mature plant and are referred to as the “true” leaves.

If seedlings are transplanted before the “true” leaves

are expanding, the tissue is too soft to handle. Handling

at this stage results in bruising of the tissues. These

plants are then very subject to rotting diseases and losses

may be very high.

—22—

On the other hand, if transplanting is delayed untilthe second set of “true” leaves has started to expand, theroot system has become so extensive that much of it will bebroken off when the seedlings are lifted out of the seedflat. Again, losses may be very high due to disease aswell as the inability of the root system to keep up withthe water needs of the plant.

Seedlings are transplanted into containers in whichthey will be marketed. Usually these are small trays orpony packs with a capacity of 6—12 plants. However, someare marketed in peat pellets and peat pots.

Transplanting involves first making holes in the soilof the container to receive the seedlings. A dibble board,which can make many such holes at one time, is often used.A label, or a small flat stick, is pushed under the seed—lings in the seed flat; and by gently lifting, the plantsare loosened from the soil. Each seedling is gently graspedand lifted out of the seed flat. The plant is then transferred to the hole in the permanent container. The seed—ling is placed in the soil at the same depth it originallygrew. Still holding it with fingers, the soil is then firmedaround the roots with the label originally used for looseningthe seedlings in the seed flat. Deep planting is likelyto result in rotted stems and dead plants. The steps arerepeated until all of the holes in the container have beenfilled with plants. It is important to handle the seedlingsby only the leaves. Handling by the stem may result in fatalbruises.

Water seedlings thoroughly. A good transplanting solution is Vitamin B1, mixed with a very mild liquid fertilizer.Protect plants in shade for at least 2 or 3 days after transplanting.

Temperatures: Most bedding plant seeds require a minimum

temperature of 65 to 75° F for good germination. Many

growers supply this warmth by using electric cables in sand onwhich the flats are placed. Other growers use “cutting propagation”

—23—

[benches. These have heat pipes under them and skirts on the fsides of the benches to force the heat upward through the

propagation medium. Recently, electrically—heated plastic

mats, on which the flats may be placed, have been developed.

They work very well. Each mat has a capacity of about 6 flats.

After transplanting, night time temperatures of 600 F

should be used for 4 to 5 weeks, but lower temperatures at this

stage of growth will delay the crop. After this early growth

period, the night temperature may be gradually lowered to

50° F and the last week or two to 450 F. This lowering of

temperature produces stiffer stems, harder leaves, and darker

colored flowers. Bringing about these changes with lower

temperature is called “hardening” the plants. Bedding plants

are often “hardened” in cold frames, which are left uncovered [except during those nights when a frost is predicted. Certain

annuals, such as snapdragons, petunias, pansies, and sweet [alyssum, can tolerate temperatures as low as 25° F if they have

been hardened properly.

Growth Regulators: Chemicals can be used to regulate growth

and provide more compact bedding plants, just as they are £used to give more compact potted plants. Petunias present

a special problem which may be solved, in part, by the use

of a growth regulator called B—Nine. Petunias tend to elongate

very rapidly in high temperatures and during the long days of

late spring. If unfavorable spring weather delays the sale

of these plants at the usual market time, they become “straggly”

while waiting to be sold. The use of B—Nine actually increases [the “shelf life” of petunias and a few other bedding plants.

The plants should be sprayed with B—Nine according to the

directions on the container. The plants must not be watered

for 24 hours after the B—Nine is sprayed on the tops; other—

wise the material will be diluted and the effect is lost.

The plants grow out of the compacting effect about 4 to S

weeks after treatnent. This is usually a week or two after

the customer has planted them in his or her garden. Certain

petunia cultivars respond better to this treatment than others.

Additional annuals which may be effectively treated with B—Nine

—24—

are: aster, marigold, salvia, verbena, and zinnia.

House Plant Care

Technically, there is no such thing as a house plant.The plants that have come to be known as house plants comefrom tropical areas. They have become more or less adaptedto the environment of the home, office, and commercialestablishment.

plants

See Appendix E for a listing of some conunon house

Containers: Placing a pot in a variety of woven baskets is

very popular. Clay pots, plastic pots, ceramic pots and con

tainers, and wooden containers are all used. Onesuccessful container set—up. is the use of a planter withclay pots sunk in sphagnum moss or peat in the planter.

This procedure helps to cut down on the amount of wateringneeded and to help provide the humidity needed by most houseplants. In addition, today there is a vast array of decorator

pots available which will compliment any interior decorating

scheme.

wooden planter withsunken clay pots packedin sphagnum

Fig. 7. — — House Plant Containers

clay potand dish

plastic potarid dish

—25—

CTemperatures: House temperatures are usually set for the

comfort of human beings; not plants. Therefore, plants must

be moved around the house to find the area of optimum

temperature for each type of plant. House plants do their

best when kept at 70-75 degrees during the day and 55—60

degrees at night. Plants must be selected that will adjust

to uniform temperatures if only one location is available.

Lighting: Most flowering plants require considerable light

to bloom, while most foliage plants need diffused light. {An exception to this rule is plants that have variegated

(different colors) leaves. Leaf cells in the white spots

contain little or no chlorophyll and therefore are not

capable of carrying on photosynthesis (food manufacturing).

More light intensity is needed for variegated plants.

Watering: Foliage plants usually come from tropical settings

where moisture and humidity are abundant. The opposite is

true of the conditions usually found in the average home or

apartment. The growing media should be kept moist, but not

“soggy”. Over—watering helps to reduce oxygen from the root

zone which in turn results in the death of the plant. [Watering should be done when the soil surface shows a

lack of moisture and feels dry down into the soil in the

pot. A “dipstick” made of wood or plastic can be used to

help determine the moisture level in the pot. Watering

at definite intervals is not recommended since atmospheric

conditions vary and transpiration may increase or decrease

between watering periods.

When watering foliage plants, the water should be near

the same temperature as the plant. Water too hot or too

cold can cause shock. To avoid rot, never pour water on the Lgrowing point or the heart of the plant. You can submerge

the pot in a pan of water and allow the soil to dampen from

the bottom. You can also use a syringe to water the plant.

-26— L

Water plants thoroughly, allowing a small amount of water

to drain through the pot at each Watering. This procedure

will help to leach out a small amount of salt each time the

plants are watered.

Humidity: The average relative humidity in the home or office

varies from 10 to 30 percent. This is much lower than the 90

percent humidity which most indoor plants are best adapted to.

Several methods of increasing humidity are used. One is to

fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water and then to place

the plant pots on the pebbles. Other methods include a daily

syringing of the leaves with a fine spray, placing a mulch of

damp peat around the base of low—growing plants, and using

totem poles which are kept damp.

Fertilizing: To maintain proper growth and leaf color of

indoor plants it is essential to fertilize small container— -

grown plants regularly since they rapidly use up soil nutrients.

It is never desirable to allow plants to show signs of yellowing

or retardation of growth before fertilizing. Applications of

20—20—20 fertilizer at intervals of 1 to 3 months in proper

amounts should be sufficient to maintain healthy vigorous

growth.

Excellent results have been obtained by using a small

quantity of fertilizer mixed with water. The solution is

applied at each watering. This provides nutrients in a

steady supply instead of heavy doses at one time and then

periods with no fertilizer.

Death of indoor plants usually results from poor management

rather than the direct effect of a specific disease. Poor

drainage, over—watering, improper temperature, over—fertilizing,

drafts, overcrowding, and wrong location contribute to eventual

death of the plant.

See Appendix F for house plant growing conditions.

—27—

CPest Control: “Damping—off” is a fungus disease which often Eattacks tender young stems near the soil line. Proper drainage

and watering should prevent the spread of this disease. In

severe cases, chemical control is advisable.

Nematodes infecting the plant roots interfere with water

movement. Wilting of foliage occurs even in the presence of

abundant soil moisture

Indoor plants are not subject to insect attacks generally

associated with plants growing out—of—doors. However, plants

growing in shaded areas within an enclosed porch or patio

are si.ibject to infestation of red spider, aphids, mealy bugs, [scale, and chewing insects. Some of these insects are found

indoors. They should be eradicated early. [Localized infestations can be removed by brushing the

insects with malathion diluted according to the directions [on the bottle. For severe infestations, it may be necessary

to spray the entire plant. NOTE: Spraying should be done Fout—of—doors.

1Periodic inspection of the foliage will disclose the initial

information and thus simplify control. See page-38 for control guide.

POINSETTIA CULTURE

The poinsettia was first brought to this country in

1825 from Mexico by a former United States Ambassador named

Poinsette; hence, the name Poinsettia. The plant was [grown for many years as a cut flower. This was because the

only cultivars (varieties) available shed their leaves

before Christmas.

Varieties: The Oak Leaf cultivar, introduced in 1923, was

the first to possess characteristics satisfactory for potted

plants. It had the ability to retain its leaves in the

greenhouse, at least until time for sale, which was the week

before Christmas. The later produced cultivars, “Ecke White”

and its sport “New Improved Ecke White” were the only varieties -

-28-

produced before 1960. These varieties not only retained

leaves and bracts in the greenhouse but also retained them

well for a satisfactory length of time under the more unfavor

able conditions found in the home. For many years it was felt

that white poinsettias were longer—lasting than red or pink

varieties. However the quality of poinsettia “lasting” is

now known to be an inherited characteristic not at all linked

to bract color.

In 1963, the variety “Paul Mikkelsen” was introduced.

It possessed stiff stems and foliage retention characteristics.

It “sported” to a pink in 1964; to a bi—colored pink and white

in 1965; and to a white in 1966.

In 1968, the Eckespoint C—i came on the market. It made

an excellent branched plant and set the scene for a new type

of plant to be marketed. Growers could produce a predictable-

multi—f lowered plant of high quality. The C—i Pink in 1968,

a C—i Marble in 1969, and a C—i White in 1970 were all

“sports” of the main C—i variety.

Some of the more conunon varieties used in the produc

tion of potted poinsettias are:

1. Annette Hegg has small, bright red bracts on short

but very stiff stems. The free branching habit of

this variety produces a strikingly uniform pinched

plant and uniform growth. Good cutting production

and good rooting should be expected. Both leaves

and bracts are exceptionally long—lasting under

home conditions. Development has been satisfactory

at 62° F but 68° is reconunended for best size and

bract development. The Annette Hegg series are

considered, by some growers, to be well suited for Arizona.

2. The Eckespoint series has been developed in Encinitas,

California and is characterized by light red, medium

sized bracts. They are slow in developing and a

wan temperature is essential through the growing season

as soon as the flowers have initiated. The use of

—29—

1!

stamens developing at irregular times but usually well ahead flof the appearance of the pistillate flower. On the side of

the cathium is a yellow—edged nectary containing a sweet and

fragrant nectar.

pred bracts

pgreen leaf

Fig. 8. — — Poinsettia “Flower” -

Photoperiod

The poinsettia, a photoperiodic plant, requires 12—13 -

hours of darkness (short days) to initiate flower buds. In

the Northern hemisphere this occurs naturally in early

October and will result in flowering at or near Christmas. [Production for other holidays can be achieved by artificially

controlling the length of day. {Some of the early flowering varieties will develop a

marketable plant by December 1 if left to develop naturally. [Therefore, producers often use lights (10 F C) in their

greenhouses from 10:00 PM to 2:00 AM. This lighting sequence [is maintained from September 1 to about October 6. Early

flowering varieties include the Eckespoint C—35 and Ecke [White.

111I:—32—

Slower varieties can be brought ipto flower earlier by

using black shade cloth. For example, the Eckespoint C—i

can be flowered for Thanksgiving by using shade from September

15 through October 10.

When schedules are altered by use of shade cloth or

lights, it is very important that other cultural schedulesbe altered to avoid producing finished plants either too short

or too tall.

Soil Mixture

A porous soil provides the best environment for complete

root development and growth. The trend is toward the use of

non—soil materials to provide a reliable and reproducible mix.

These soil—less mixes provide less chance for unexpected

problems which could be introduced if soil is used in the mix.

Some of the coimnon problems are: (1) Soil—borne diseases and

pests, if the soil is not sterilized; (2) soil mixes do not

always run “true—to—fonn”; and (3) differences in soil fertility.

A typical artificial soil mix providing good results is

formulated as follows:

5 cu. ft. Michigan peat moss2 cu. ft. perlite, vermiculite, or terralite5 Cu. ft. sand1 lb. kmnonium nitrate1 lb. Superphosphate1 lb. Soil sulfer

This will provide a mix with some initial fertility.

Additional nutrients will need to be applied during the growing

season.

Fertilizing: Poinsettias require a high level of fertility.

They are fairly sensitive to low nutrient supply, particularly

nitrogen and certain micro—elements.

Nitrogen deficiency may result in poor rooting, leaf drop,

delayed flowering, and reduced magnesium uptake by roots

resulting in magnesium deficiency symptoms.

—33—

UIn addition, general unthriftiness of the plants as evidenced Fby yellow—green leaf color and lack of growth will be observed.

Phosphorus deficiency will be indicated by poor rooting,

stunted growth, delayed flower formation, and yellowing and

dropping of leaves.

Potassium deficiency may result in “pinpoint speckling” Cof leaves formed at the time of deficiency. In case of

severe deficiency, marginal burning of the leaves and defolia

tion, just prior to flowering, will be in evidence. Leaves

formed during rooting may show potassium deficiency symptoms.

Most often symptoms occur at flowering time.

A major factor in determining micro—nutrient availability

is pH. The poinsettia plant is sensitive to high pH, with

values below 6.0 considered ideal. Elements which are

relatively unaffected by pH include nitrate, potassium, sodium,

chloride, boron, and sulfate. Elements which become less

soluble as pH rises include calcium, magnesium, copper, zinc,

manganese, iron, and aluminum. Molybdenum becomes more

soluble as pH rises. Phosphate is most soluble in strongly

acid and moderately alkaline solutions.

The methods of applying fertilizer to poinsettia plants

include:

a. Top dressing with dry fertilizer.b. Incorporation of slow—release fertilizer programs.c. Combination liquid / slow—release fertilizer programs.d. Liquid fertilizer at every irrigation.e. Liquid fertilizer at fixed intervals.

Liquid fertilizer at every irrigation has become the most

popular method. It’s probably the most “foolproof” as well as

the most economical. It automatically limits the quantity of

fertilizer applied, in case of underwatering, and prevents

excessive buildup, even under conditions of overwatering. [When water is required, fertilizer is automatically supplied.

Under most circumstances, a single formula can be satisfactorily

used for the entire production period.

—34—

Poinsettias seem to require substantial rates of nitrogenwith modest phosphorus and potassium rates. Usually a low

soil potassium level is still sufficient to supply the requirements of poinsettias. When using the liquid feed at every

irrigation, a fertilizer which provides approximately 250ppm nitrogen, 40 ppm phosphorus, and 140 ppm potassium willprovide adequate nutrients throughout the growing season.These nutritional requirements can be supplied by using thefollowing self—mixed nutrient solution:

2 1/2 lbs. Annonium nitrate2 1/2 lbs. Potassium nitrate8 f 1. oz. 75% Phosphoric Acid8 fl. oz. Liquid Iron1 1/2 f 1. oz Molybdenum stock solution*5 gal. water

*Dissolve 1/5 lb. sodium or anunonium molybdate in 1 gal.

water. This nutrient solution is then used in a constant

liquid feed program at the rate of 1 ounce per gallon of

water applied to the plants.

Temperature: The poinsettia plant thrives with a day time

temperature at an optimum of 80—85° F. Although the plants

will tolerate considerably higher temperatures, “stretching”

and thin growth may result if light is also limited. On the

other hand, extremely low temperatures will tend to retard

growth and promote chlorosis. Temperatures should not be

allowed to drop below 600 F. at night. It is sometimes desirable

to keep different varieties in separate greenhouses so that

they can be exposed to their own optimum temperatures.

Growth Regulators: Growth regulators are often used to restrict

stem elongation. However, this may become unnecessary for

some of the new varieties. The most used regulator has been

cycocel, but B-Nine has also been used. In addition to restrict

ing stem elongation, these materials also tend to darken the

green of the foliage.

Many factors affect the action of growth regulators.

Some are: (1) the concentration of active ingredient;

(2) quantity applied; (3) time of application relating to

—35—

Cflowering date; (4) stage of root development at time of {application; (5) temperature and humidity prior to and after

treatment; (6) plant moisture content; (7) interaction of other

spray materials; (8) and method of treatment whether by -

spray or drench.

In general, growth regulators are less effective when

temperatures are high, moisture supply and humidity are high, Ilight is reduced as from crowding, and when nitrogen supply

is largely anunonium or urea.

Methods of application include soil drench or foliar

spray. It should be noted that the cost of material and labor [are higher when the drench procedure is used. Solutions

of desired strength should be made by measuring the appropriate Fquantity of growth regulator into an empty container and then

adding sufficient water to make the desired final volume.

Cycocel should be applied at the following rates:

September OctoberSoil Drench* 3000 ppm 3000 ppmFoliar Spray** 3000 ppm 1500 ppm £*4 fluid ounces per 5” pot

6 fluid ounces per 6” pot**May cause leaf burn.

Using a 11% concentrate of Cycocel, a 1500 ppm solution

can be prepared by adding 1 1/2 fluid ounces of concentrate to £1 gallon of water (1:80 dilution). A 3000 ppm solution can

be prepared by adding 3 1/2 fluid ounces of concentrate to 1

gallon of water (1:40 dilution).

B—Nine should be applied at the following rates: [September October -

Foliar Spray 5000 ppm 3000 ppm {Using a 5% concentrate of B—Nine, a 5000 ppm solution

can be prepared by adding 13 fluid ounces of concentrate [to 1 gallon of water and a 3000 ppm solution can be pre

pared by adding 8 fluid ounces of concentrate to 1 gallon [of water.

-36-

Growth regulator applications should be made as earlyas practical after plants are well—rooted in the container.However, applications have been successful as late as November 1.On branqhed plants, treatment should occur approximately twoweeks alter pinching. Sprays should be applied to the topside of all foliage for maximum benefit. Individual plants,in multi—plant containers, can be sprayed to equalize height.Spray treatment should be given only when plants are wellsupplied with moisture and when rapid drying of foliage willoccur.

There can be possible undesirable side effects fromtreatment. These include bract size, crinkling of bracts,blotchy yellowing of leaves, marginal leaf burn, and delayedflowering. Usually, these problems will not develop withearly application under favorable environmental conditions.

Growing Problems: The modern poinsettia grower experiencesmany types of problems. One which is becoming more and moreconunon each year with the increasing urbanization of areasaround the greenhouses where poinsettias are grown isaccidental bud set delay. The delay is caused by unnoticedextraneous lights shining into the greenhouse at night.

To eliminate the unwanted light source, it is necessary thatblack cloth be used starting October 1 to insure a fourteen

hour dark period for at least three weeks. The use of black

cloth will insure bud set if the temperature is not above

65° F. at night.

Another problem is that of poor root development, yellowing

of foliage, leaf drop, and stunting caused by excessive quantitiesof anunonium or urea. As a rule of thumb, no more than half of

the nitrogen supplied poinsettias should be in the form of

anmionium. Urea is preferably oiwnitted completely.

Leaf drop causes much concern among growers but some

varieties, such as the Hegg’s, are less prone to this problem.

The most common causes of leaf drop are lack of nitrogen and

lack of water. Healthy poinsettias thrive under high moisture

availability and moderate to high light. However,

—37—

rwaterlogging should be avoided. [

Diseases can be controlled by using clean plants, clean

soil, complete sanitation, and by providing the appropriate

environment. Additional control of disease organisms can be

obtained with chemicals. Rhizoctonia and Pythium stem and

root rots can be prevented by using a combination of 4 oz. [Terraclor 75 Wi’ (PCNB) plus 4 oz. Dexon 35 in 100 gallons of

water. [Weeds should not be a problem with the artificial soil

mix recommended. However, if weeds occur in a pot, they [should be removed by hand. Never apply a herbicide. For

weeds under the benches, the safest way to get rid of them 17is manually. However, Urea—based products, such as Monuron -

and Diuron, and borates can be used. Under no circumstances

should volatile growth regulator types of herbicides be used

in the greenhouse.

Keeping the greenhouse clean by removing all dead or

dying material helps in controlling insects. With new federal £regulations and everchanging list of insecticides, chemical

controls are hard to prescribe. Controls outlined before

can serve only as a temporary guide.

TABLE 6 £Insect Control Guide

**wAyS FOLLOW DIRECTIONS ON LABEL**

Aphids Meta—Systox R 1 pt. 25.2% E.C./l00 gal.1 spray or 1 drench application. 17Mealy Bugs Diazinon 1 lb. 50% W.P./100 gal.3 spray applications 10 days apart.

Spider Mites Kelthane 1 lb. 18.5% W.P./lOO gal. [3 spray applications 10 days apart.Orthene: follow instructions.

White flies Diazinon 1 lb. 50% W.P./lOO gal. [2 spray applications 14 days apartPolytrap: follow instructions. -

A spray should be applied with full coverage totop and bottom side of foliage.

—38—

A drench should be applied at the rate of 8 oz.per 60 pot. Soil should be moist before drench isapplied.

Shipping and Handling: As with other flowers, the amount of

plant handling should be kept to a minimum. Adequate care

must be taken during shipping to prevent mechanical damage as

well as damage due to darkness, drying, and adverse tempera

tures. Remove sleeves from plants when received. Keep plants

out of drafts and never allow plants to dry out. Good care

while in the wholesale and retail stores includes adequate

lighting, careful watering to avoid any moisture stress, and

reducing temperatures during nonworking hours.

Artificial lighting can greatly distort the true color

of the poinsettia bracts and leaves. Incandescent filament

lamps produce warm pleasing colors, Cool white fluorescent

lamps cause red varieties to look very grey and white vari

eties to look green.

Home Care: Once in the home, the consumer should place the

plant in a btight area of the room but not in a drafty loca

tion. The plant should be watered thoroughly when the soil

surface is dry to the touch; usually daily. Remember these

plants have been under a constant liquid feed in the green

house. Ideal temperatures never exceed 72° daytime or 65°

at night.

It has been demonstrated that poinsettia plants will

last longer in the house if at least one small light is

kept burning during the entire night.

—39—

CCHRYSANTHEMUN CULTURE [

As early as 500 B.C. the chrysanthemum was cultivated -

in China and spread into Japan around 500 A.D. The plant

was introduced to the United States in 1798 by John Steven

of Hoboken, New Jersey. By the year 1826, a Long Island,

New York nurseryman listed 26 varieities as available.

Until the middle of the 18th century the chrysanthemum was {grown only as a garden flower. Today it is a major green—

house flower. It is second only to the Geranium as a pot

plant. They are grown extensively in all flower producing -

areas of the United States. The successful grower of chrysan

themums usually has an extremely large production volume. Many [Arizona growers had to leave the market due to not having

large growing operations. The outstanding success of the [year—around flowering concept, started in the 1940’s, is

the result of the discovery that the chrysanthemum is photo— [periodic. Manipulation of night length and other environmental

factors along with the selection of proper varieities now

enable the greenhouse grower to “flower” chrysanthemums at

any season.

The chrysanthemum has been classified into four color

categories: white, yellow, bronze, and pink. The bronze

includes orange, copper, and shades of red. Pink ranges [from deep lavender to the lighter shades of pink. Yellow -

and white are the mainstay of year—around schedules. Both

the bronze and the pink varieities have a tendency to fade,

especially under high temperatures and high light conditions. [This requires that flowers, as they are opening, be shaded with

cheesecloth or other shading material to reduce the light

and temperatures.

Varieties: Some of the common varieties used in the produc

tion of chrysanthemums are listed below.

1. Giant #4 Indianapolis White is a large exhibition

(incurve) variety which is excellent for single

stem culture. It is a white 9 week variety which

is classified as a tall treatment plant that will [f lower any month of the year.

-40- L

2. Giant #4 Indianapolis Yellow is a large exhibition

(incurve) variety which is excellent for single stem

culture. It is a light yellow 9 week variety which

is classified as a tall treatment plant that will

flower any month of the year.

3. Royal Purple is a medium to large decorative variety

with intense color that holds well in the summer.

It is a royal purple 10 week variety which is classi

fied as a tall treatment plant which flowers well

from April through November.

4. Gay Anne is a medium decorative variety grown as a

“disbud”. It is a dark bronze 10 week variety which

is classified as a tall treatment plant which flowers

well from October through May.

5. Princess Anne Superb is a medium decorative variety

grown as a “disbud”. It is a pink 10 week variety

which is classified as a tall treatment plant which

flowers well from November through April.

6. Torch-is a medium decorative variety which is highly

heat resistant. It is a bronze 9 week variety which

is classified as a short treatment plant which will

flower any month of the year.

7. Always Pink is a medium decorative variety which

provides a uniform, dependable response. It is a

dark pink 8 week variety which is classified as a

short treatment plant which will flower any month of

the year.

8. Gb—Pink is a medium decorative variety. It is a

medium pink 9 week variety which is classified as

a medium treatment plant which will flower any month

of the year.

The use of “9 week variety”, “10 week variety”, etc. in

the above listings denotes the week group response. Week

group is a term referring to the number of weeks from the time

—41—

Cshort days are started until the date of flowering for certain [groups of chrysanthemums. The range is from 7 weeks to 15

weeks. All commercially grown chrysanthemums have been placed

into these groups.

Also used in the descriptions is a classification of: [short treatment, medium treatment, or tall treatment. A short

treatment variety tends to grow naturally short and needs 2 [to 3 more weeks of lights during the winter to make it taller.

Tall treatment varieties are naturally taller yet compact

enough to be used as a pot plant. A tall treatment variety -

should not be given long days (lighted at night) during the

summer, rather it should be shaded as soon as it is potted.

The pinch must be delayed to keep the plants from getting too

tall.

Growing Plan: The first step in planning a seasonal chrysan

themum crop is to determine the desired final product in terms [of date of sale, varieties, pot sizes, and blooms per pot -

(single stem or branched). A production plan can then be [drawn up (1) insuring correct arrival time of plants and (2)

sufficient bench space at each stage of production, since

crowding will definitely reduce quality.

For the purpose of this publication, two production {schedules have been developed, one for Christmas and one for

Easter. These schedules fit in well with the normal school year. £The following schedules will enable a grower to produce a

Christmas season and an Easter crop consisting of white and

yellow single stem football mums and pink and bronze multi

steimned plants. This tradition may not hold true in all areas, -

though.

CL1-

—42—

TABLE 7

Christmas Schedule

DATE TEMP CULTURAL PROCEDURES

Nite Day

9—25 62 75 Plant rooted cuttings of Gt. #4 md. White& Yellow, seven per 6” pot. Water in witha drench of 4 oz. Dexon and 4 oz. Terrachiorin 100 gal. water. Place under lights for1—2 weeks (light from 10 PM to 2 AM).

10-2 62 75 Plant rooted cuttings of Royal Purple, GayAnne, & Princess Anne Superb, five per 6”pot at 45° angles. Water in with Dexonand Terrachlor. Place under lights.

62 75 Remove Gt. *4 md. White & Yellow fromlights and place on regular growing bench.Spray with growth regulator. Start constantliquid feed program (CLF).

10-9 62 75 Remove Royal Purple, Gay Anne, & PrincessAnne Superb from lights and place onregular growing bench. Pinch these plantsat this time for multi—stemmed growth. CLF.

10—23 60 75 Spray all mums with growth regulator. CLF.

11—? 60 75 Disbud all mums when ready. Leave oneterminal bud on top of each stem. CLF.

11-13 60 75 Spray all mums with growth regulator. Thisapplication can be moved forward or backso as to apply 2 days after disbudding. CLF.

11-27 56 75 Lower temperature if possible. Cannot bedone if other plants requiring higher temperatures are in the sane house. CLF.

12-15 56 75 Plants ready for sale. CLF.

—43—

rTABLE 8 [

Easter Schedule

DATE* TEMP CULTURAL PROCEDURESNite Day

12 wk 62 75 Plant rooted cuttings of Torch. Waterin with a drench of Dexon and Terrachlor.Place under lights for 3 weeks (10 PMto 2 AM). Five cuttings / pot.

11 wk 62 75 Plant rooted cuttings of Always Pink &Gb—Pink. Water in with drench of Dexonand Terrachlor. Place Always Pink underlights for 3 weeks and Gb—Pink for 2weeks. Five cuttings per 6” pot.

10 wk 62 75 Plant rooted cuttings of Gt. #4 md.White & Yellow, seven per 6” pot. Waterin with a drench of Dexon and Terrachior.Place under lights for 1 week.

9 wk 62 75 Remove Gt. #4 md. White & Yellow, Torch,and Gb—Pink from lights and place onregular growing bench. Start constantliquid feed (CLF). Pinch Torch and Gb-Pink for multi-stem growth. SprayGt. #4 md. White & Yellow with growthregulator. [

8 wk 62 75 Remove Always Pink from lights and placeon regular growing bench. CLF. Pinchfor multi-stem growth. {

7 wk 60 75 Spray all mums with growth regulator. CLF.

? wk 60 75 Disbud all minus when ready. Leave 1 terminal bud on top of each stem. CLF.

4 wk 60 75 Spray all mums with growth regulator. [This application can be moved forward orback so as to apply 2 days after disbud—ding. cu. [

3 wk 56 75 Lower temperature if possible. Cannot bedone if other plants requiring highertemperatures are in the same house. CLF.

0 wk 56 75 Ready for sale. CLF.* week under date refers to number of weeks before sale date.

NOTE: The dates on the previous charts may have to be altered [depending on light and temperature factors.

—44—

Flower Description: The chrysanthemum is a short day plant

belonging to the largest family of flowering plants in the

world, the compositae. This family also includes asters,

zinnia, dandelions, and daisies. The compositae are so

named because they are composed of many individual flowers

called “florets” combined into one flower head. The “florets”

are classified into two groups: disk florets and ray florets.

Disk florets are perfect florets, having both stamen

and pistils. In single or daisy chrysanthemums, disk florets

make up the center or eye of the blossom. In anemone chry

santhemums, the disk florets have well developed tubular

petals, creating more of a cushion effect. Double chrysanthe

mums have very few disk florets. They are composed almost

entirely of ray florets.

Ray florets generally have no stamens, thus are imper

fect (female) florets. In single and anemone chrysanthemums,

ray florets make up the outer row of the flower head.

The large flowered types of chrysanthemums are preferred

for pot plant production because the color effect is better

than with the small flowered types. A compact, dense growth

habit is essential. Today’s florist wants a plant that

stands about 12 inches tall, is 12 inches across with approxi

mately 12 blooms (remember 12 x 12 x 12). Examples of the

classes of chrysanthemums are as follows:

a. Decorative — broad, outward curving petals. Theslender rays are variable. They may be long,narrow or broad and flat (overlapping like roofshingles), or may resemble cactus-flowered dahlias.

b. Exhibition - two types - incurved and reflexed..The rays of incurved types close in toward thecenter, forming a round ball—shaped flower. Therays of reflexed types turn back away from theflower center. Both types, when disbudded, produce the large flowers traditionally worn ascorsages at football games.

—45—

Ca. Pompon — globular, near—compact flowers with flat, Ffluted, or quilled rays. Disbudded pompons may -

reach about 5” in diameter. There are an extremely -

large number of varieties in a wide color rangecovering a long period of bloom. -

d. Spider — some with rays only, others with varyingnumbers of disk florets at center. True spidershave curling tubular rays ending in fish—hook tips.

e. Anemone — one or more rows of broad outer rays Fwith large raised center disk or cushion, samecolor as rays or different. -

f. Daisy - Come in all sizes and forms. Rays may beshort and rigid or long and drooping, but are arranged regularly and form a fringe around the yellowcenter.

g. Spoon - unusual tubular rays broaden at ends to formdistinct spoons that are frequently of a differentcolor from the rest of the rays. producing interesting contrasts.

h. Feathery - Carnation—like with cupped or twistedand curled rays.

Photoperiod: The chrysanthemum is a photoperiodic plant which [requires more than 7 hours of continuous darkness to initiate

flower buds. Shorter periods of darkness will not prevent [growth of the chrysanthemum plant but will prevent develop

ment of the flower bud. For year—round flowering, the length

of day is adjusted either by artificial illumination or by

the use of black cloth to produce the particular growth re

sponse desired. (See Figure 9).

In order to produce large flowers, potted chrysanthemums [are grown vegetatively for several weeks. Vigorous vegetative

growth is essential prior to development of flower buds on [the upper portion of the stems. Long daylight hours promote

vegetative growth. The use of long daylight hours should be -

continued for approximately two weeks after the plants are

potted.

1.E-46-

IL

Adequate natural sunlight is available for vegetative

growth from May through July. From August through April,

artificial lighting is used to break up the night period thus

artificially producing long days. Lights are turned on at

10:00 each evening and left on 2 to 4 hours depending upon the

time of year. Two hours of artificial lighting is required in

late July, August and early May; while three (3) hours are

required in September, October, March and April. In November,

December, January and February, at least four hours of arti

ficial light is required. These lighting periods, based upon

the month, will insure that the period of continuous darkness

does not exceed seven hours.

FLOWER DCVEGE’EATWE

MAYthrough

JULY BilL MAFCRthrough

AUJST

AUJSTthroughAPRIL

SEPTEMBERthrough

APRIL

Fig. 9 —— Photoperiod Development(Source: Penn State. Greenhouse Crop Production)

It requires short days to promote the initation and

development of flower buds. From September through

April, the days are short enough to promote bud development.

From March through August, artificial short days must be

provided. A black cloth is drawn over the plants every

— 47 —

Cevening at 7:00 PM and left on until 7:00 AM the next morning. 17Applying shade for longer than 12 hours per night can have

harmful effects on a crop. Also, temperatures under the 17cloth must be kept below 800 F to avoid delay of flowering.

When shading with black cloth is used to initiate bud develop- -

ment, the covering should be continued each evening on

pompons until the latest buds show color and on standards until

the bud is the size of a nickel. -

Soil Mixture: A porous soil provides the best environment

for complete root development and growth. The trend is toward

the use of non—soil materials to provide a reliable and

reproducible mix. These soil—less mixes provide less of a 17chance for unexpected problems which could be introduced if

soil is used in the mix. Some of the conunon problems are: [(1) soil borne diseases and pests, if the soil is not steri

lized; (2) soil mixes do not always run “true—to—form’;

and (3) differences in soil fertility.

A typical artificial soil mix providing good results [is formulated as follows:

4 Cu. ft. Michigan peatmoss 175 gal. river run sand16 lbs. terralite (or equivalent material)3 Cu. ft. forest humus12 lbs. perlite.66 gal. gypsum.43 gal. Osmocote (14—14—14)

NOTE: Retain at least 1/3 of the heavy material and add lastto obtain desired mix consistency.

This will provide a mix with some initial fertility. CAdditional nutrients will need to be supplied during the

growing season. [U17

-48- 17

Potting: Chrysanthemums are generally potted in 6 inch azaleapots. Two methods of placing the cuttings are used; one forsingle—stem mum culture and the other for pinched or multi—stem culture. The rooted cuttings should be graded for sizeso each pot will have uniform plants. Cuttings should beplanted shallow. This will insure a good soil—air—moisturerelationship for rapid root growth.

For single—stem cultures, 7 rooted cuttings are planted

per pot. Six (6) are placed an equal distance around the edgesand 1 in the center (usually the largest of the 7 cuttings).

All cuttings are planted in a fairly upright position, therebydiscouraging the development of side shoots.

For multi—stem cultures, 5 rooted cuttings are planted

per pot at an equal distance around the edges of the pot.

The cuttings are planted at an angle so the top of the cuttings

extend over the edge of the pot. This placement will allow

each plant more room to grew thus encouraging more shoots per

cutting and larger and better formed plants.

Fig. 10. — — Multi—stem Planting Angle

—49—

COnce the rooted cuttings have been potted they are ready [to be benched and put under lights. The pots should be

spaced to allow one inch between the pots for the first 3—4

weeks. After 4 weeks, they should be spread out to allow

approximately 8 inches from pot rim to rim. Close spacing

during the growing period results in poorly shaped plants.

Wider spacing is uneconomical.

Fertili2ing: Chrysanthemums are fairly heavy feeders because

of their extensive leafiness. Usually newly planted cuttings

are started out at rather low fertility levels. Once

established, the plants are grown at the following soil

nutrient level: [(Nitrate) Nitrogen 20—40 ppmPhosphorus 3-5 ppmPotassium 20—40 ppmpH 6.4—7.0

Most growers use a constant liquid feed program. By spot

checking the pots, adjustments can be made if the nutrient

supply is too high or too low. When using liquid feed at

every irrigation, a fertilizer which provides approximately

250 ppm nitrogen, 40 ppm phosphorus, and 140 ppm potassium will [provide adequate nutrients throughout the growing season.

These nutritional requirements can be supplied by using the [following self—mixed nutrient solution: -

2 1/2 lbs. Atmuonium nitrate2 1/2 lbs Potasssium nitrate8 fi. 02. 75% Phosphoric Acid8 fl. 02. Liquid Iron5 gallons Water

This nutrient solution is then used at the rate of 1 ounce

per one gallon of water applied to the plants.

Temperature: More than any other major crop, chrysanthemums [will quickly show the effects of being too wan or too cold.

If the temperature is too wan, delay or failure of bud develop

ment and flower size or color impairment may result. If the

temperature is too cold, buds will not appear at the correct rtime. Also, tight “clubby” sprays may develop or flower I..discoloration may result.

-

-50- C

Potted chrysanthemums require different temperatures atspecific stages of growth for the production of high quality

plants. The most critical periods of temperature control are

during the initial two weeks after planting and during the twoweeks after the start of “short days”. In both instances

the night temperatures should be 62 — 65° F. For other periods

of growth, a cool 60 degrees will produce the best crop.

The night temperatures are the most important. However, if

the daytime temperatures reach much above 80° F., they will

tend to offset the coolness of the night temperatures.

During the last 3 — 4 weeks of production, lowering the

temperature to 54 — 56° F at night will cause more intense

color in the flowers. Low temperatures also result in a

“harder” type of growth which is less subject to damage when the

plants are handled during shipment. However, it may be impossible

to use this lower temperature if there are other crops in the

house that require a higher growing temperature.

Pinching: The grower must decide whether he wants to raise

single stem or multi—stem plants. Some advantages of raising

a single stem crop are: (1) no labor involved in pinching and

pruning; (2) greater production due to shorter crop duration;

hence, more frequent flowering on the same bench space (over a

2 year period an extra crop can usually be obtained); and (3)

the crop is more uniform with greater flower size and better

spray form than a pinched crop grown during the same period.

Some advantages of raising a multi—stem crop (those developed

by pinching) are: (1) lateral stems that can be “flowered”

are produced; (2) type of spray formation can be determined;

and (3) type of bud formation (crown or terminal) can be

determined. Plants pinched too early produce crown buds and

laterals. As a result, crowns are usually long and uneven in

flowering response. When plants are pinched too late after

planting, the lateral stem length is very short. The flower

heads tend to be crowded together; set on uneven plants; thus,

making an undesirable spray formation.

—51—

CThe schedules outlined in chrysanthemum catalogs are [

designed to produce medium—branched laterals. These will be in

proportion to the overall stem lengths and will flower uni— [formly.

Regardless of the time period between planting and

pinching, all pinches must be made into the soft growth. Soft

growth is most easily defined as growth that has occurred since Cplanting. It can easily be broken with a light twist of the

thumb and forefinger. The top of the shoot tip is removed [(See Figure 2). This pinching causes shoots to develop from

the axis of the upper leaves. [Failure to pinch soft growth can often result in low shoot

count and retarded development of shoots. The result is often [an uneven crop with poor production. Pinching into hard wood

often disturbs the root system since much more force is requi±ed [to remove the “pinch” from the plant. Improper pinching can -

easily reduce the production potential of the plant.

Growth Regulators: Chrysanthemum varieties for pots are chosen

not only on the color and shape of the flower but also on the [shape and height of the plant. The growing schedule selected

usually is helpful to control final crop height. However,

additional help in the form of growth retardants may be necessary.

Treatments with growth regulators at the right stage of [growth will help to shorten the stems of chrysanthemums and

give the plant a better appearance. Most plants are sprayed [about 2 weeks after they are pinched or when the breaks

are approximately 1 1/2 inches long. If this application is

not adequate, a second application can be made approximately

3 weeks later. The second application may also be timed so -

it is applied two days after disbudding.

The upper leaf surfaces of the plant should be sprayed [with a 0.25% solution of B—Nine. This concentration can be

achieved by using 6 ounces of B—Nine concentrate per one gallon

of water. Spraying should be just heavy enough so the droplets

-52- [

begin to run together. During sununer months, the concentrationcan be doubled to 0.50% to gain good results.

Growth regulators should be applied only to well—wateredcrops. The foliage of the sprayed plants must stay dry atleast 24 hours after spraying if good results are expected.B—Nine should not be mixed with other chemicals such as fertilizers, insecticides, or fungicides.

Disbudding: Disbudding is the removal of side or lateral budsfrom each shoot as soon as the terminal bud is well developed.Chrysanthemums are disbudded so that each stem produces a singlelarge flower. A terminal bud can be identified by a small,hard, central bud. It is surrounded by a tight cluster ofsmaller buds all appearing similar and on a plane slightlybelow the center bud. In addition, there is usually normalshaped leaf development up to the point of budding.

Shoots of chrysanthemums have one large flower bud atthe end of the stem and many small side buds. If the sidebuds are not removed, a bulky—looking flower stem results.These side buds are removed with the fingers by rolling thebud to one side. This is done as soon as the buds can begrasped. If the buds are too large when removed, the stemcan be badly damaged.

Disbudding should be done from the top down. If theterminal bud is broken off, the top lateral bud can be allowedto remain to produce a flower. In addition, it must beremembered that the buds do not all reach the same size at thesame time, so disbudding usually has to be done weekly over athree week period.

Growing Problems: Crown—budding is one problem that can occurwith chrysanthemums. Crown buds are characterized by a bud

somewhat softer and usually larger than a terminal bud with

vegetative shoots on a plane above the central bud. The leaf

shape may appear abnormal next to the central bud, being

usually narrower and somewhat strap—shaped. Crown buds can

occur on a plant at any time. They require a fewer

—53—

Unumber of days of correct night length to set the bud than

-- [they do to develop the same bud. Therefore, a crown bud

appears only when the period was correct for setting the bud,

but the environment was not correct for developing the

bud. Crown buds are actually arrested terminal buds.

Another problem is that of failure to bud by the plant.

This can be caused by extremes of either high (85° F. and [up) night temperatures or low (54° F. and below) temperatures

which tend to produce vegetative growth responses. The

most critical period of growth response is during the 3 to 4

weeks after the start of short days. Stages of growth prior

to or after this period will be affected but not to as great

a degree.

Necking also causes some concern among chrysanthemum

growers. Necking is the tern used to describe the appearance -

of flower stems below the bud that are long and sparse in

foliage. Often the foliage is strap—shaped. The best control

is to use a 0.25% solution of B—Nine growth regulator applied [until first disbudding.

One result of high temperatures causing rapid evaporation

from flower petals is sunscald. The salt content in the cells

of the petals builds up rapidly causing dehydration and death

when the plant roots fail to absorb sufficient moisture.

Thus, the petal tips turn brown and the flowers are often [unsalable. High temperatures and high light intensity can be

reduced by shading with cheesecloth. In addition, adequate [moisture at the roots will help prevent petal burn during the

hot sinmner days.

Diseases can usually be controlled by using clean plants,

clean soil, complete sanitation, and by providing the appropriate

environment. Additional reduction of disease organisms can be

obtained with chemicals such as Dexon and Terrachlor. A

combination of 4 oz. Dexon 35 plus 4 oz. Terrachlor 75 WP

(PCNB) in 100 gallons of water applied at planting time and

again once each month should eliminate disease problems.

L

Weeds should not be a problem with the artificial soilmix recommended. However, if weeds occur in a pot, they

should be removed by hand; but never by application of aherbicide. For weeds growing under the benches, the safestway to get rid of them is manually, although some chemicals

may be used. Under no circumstances should volatile growthregulator types of herbicides be used in the greenhouse.

Keeping the greenhouse clean by removing all dead or

dying material helps in controlling insects. In addition,

1 oz. of 25% Diazinon in 3 gallons of water or 1 oz. of 50%Malathion in 3 gallons of water can be used to aid in the

control of aphids, mites, or thrips if these problems develop.

Prior to adding new crops the greenhouse should be scrubbed

and disinfected (benches, walls, and floor). The following

table lists additional insects and chemical controls which

can be used. (However, due to changing federal regulations,container labels should be checked for complete recommendations).

TABLE 9

Insect Control

U

a) >1V —1

W ..4w 1-4 COV 0 >-iiO W4j 0-4 4.4 —40-b •r4.C 0—4 d4 Z 1-4 -4Qa >Z WE o v

Ci i-1 E-i

Cygon X X X X X

Diazinon X X 3< 3< 3<

Kelthane X X

Lindane 3<

Malathion 3< K 3< X

Meta-Systox—R 3< K 3< 3<

Sevin X

Zectran X K K X 3<

—55—

rShipping and Handling: Potted chrysanthemums are at the [right stage to sell when the center of the bloom has lost

most of its green color. At this point the petals will [continue to open normally after the plant is sold. If

weather is warm (Arizona) , you can sell plants in the [bullet stage.

Most producers of potted chrysanthemums sell directly [to retailers, chains, and jobbers on a pre—arranged basis. -.

Many chains will buy blooming seasonal plants one year in

advance. The plants are usually “sleeved” to protect them

during shipment from mechanical damage. In addition, damage

due to darkness, drying, and adverse temperature must be -

minimized by proper watering, adequate lighting, and care

ful temperature control. [Home Care: Once in the home, the consumer should give a

potted mum plant full sun, a night temperature of 60 to 65 [degrees, and keep the plant well—watered.

After freezing weather is over, the plant can be set [outside. The “spent” blossoms should be cut off about 4

inches above the crown before setting out. When the plant [grows out approximately 4 inches, pinch out the terminal

buds to encourage branching. This procedure should be con

tinued until the middle of August when the last pinch is

made before letting the plant “set” its buds for flowering.

Most florist varieties of chrysanthemums will be

killed by temperatures under 20 degrees. However, there

are many garden varieties available for outside planting

where low temperatures are common. A wide selection of

response groups will enable the home owner to enjoy chrysan— [themums in flower over a period of several months. The 7

to 8 week varieties generally flower in late September [through October. The 10 to 11 week types are the November

flowering ones, and the 12 to 15 week varieties usually

flower in December.

1.-56- L

APPENDIX A

FLOWERING POT PLANTS

—57—

FLOWERING POT PLANTS.

AfricanViolets — The most commonly grown house plant. The leaves

are fuzzy and heart—shaped with smooth edges.They grow in rosettes. The flowers are purple,violet, pink, white, or variegated.

Amaryllis - Tropical bulbs that can be kept growing continuously. The leaves are bold and straplike in clumps.The flowers arising, on stalks in clusters of 4—12,are trumpet—shaped and range in color from purewhite through rose, red, carmine, scarlet, crimson,and variegated or striped flowers.

Azalea — A close relative of the Rhododendron. The leavesare entire with short petioles and are foundalternately on the stem. The flowers come in white,pink, and purple. They can be planted out ofdoors after bloom in the house is terminated.

Begonia — Grown for foliage and flowers. Two types areavailable, fibrous—rooted or tuberous. Thefibrous rooted plant has succulent stems andshiny leaves, producing white, pink, or scarletflowers continuously. The tuberous plants havewatery stems and brittle, pointed leaves. Theybear large white, yellow, orange, or red flowers.

Calla — This plant has basal clumps of long—stalked,shining, rich green, arrow— or lance—shaped leaves.The showy part of the plant is not a true flower,but a bract surrounding a central spike that istightly covered with tiny true flowers.

ChristmasCactus — A plant which produces many flat—stenut’.ed fleshy

branches that serve as leaves. Brilliant pinkpendant flowers grow from the edges of theyounger parts of the plant.

Chrysanthemum — Typically with flowers that are white or yellow in

color but many shades of reds, yellows, bronze, andourole have been developed for today’s market. The sternbecome woody with age. The leaves are alternateon the stem and heavily lobed. Widely used forholiday occasions but available year around.

Cyclamen — Grown for pretty white, pink, rose, or red flowersthat resemble shooting stars. The leaves formbasal clumps and are round with incurve of theblades near the petiole.

—58—

rGeranium — Shrubby, succulent—stemmed plants with leaves that

are round or kidney—shaped, velvety, and hairy,and soft to the touch. The edges are distinctlylobed and scallop—toothed with zones of color justinside the margins. Flowers are single or doubleand usually in solid colors of white, pink, rose,red, orange, and violet. -.

Gloxinia — The plants are almost stemless with broad velvetyleaves and deep bell—like flowers that arebrilliantly colored with ruffled edges. Flowercolors are blue, purple, violet, pink, red, andwhite.

Hydrangea - The leaves are thick, shiny, and coarsely toothed. [The flowers exhibit white, pink, red, or bluecolors in big clusters. Pink and red forms oftenturn purple or blue in acid soils. [

Lily - Very fragrant, long, white, trumpet—shaped flowerson short stems at the top of a tall stalk. Theleaves are narrow and form a rosette appearancearound the tall stalk. Common usage as an Easterplant. -

Poinsettia — The showy part of the plant consists of petal—like bracts with the true, inconspicuous, yellowflowers in the center. The leaves are deeplylobed. Coimiton use is as a Christmas plant.

FCCILCCLIL

-59-

L

APPENDIX BPOT PLANT PRODUCTION

—60—

POT PLANT PRODUCTION(Source: Penn. State Greenhouse Crop Production)

AFRICAN VIOLET(Saintpaulia)

Production and Marketing Period: Entire year

Method of Propagation: Petiole cuttings; division of small plants.Root petiole cuttings in flats; dividewhen suitable size.

Cultural Procedures:

Potting: Plant divisions or rooted petiole cuttings directlyinto 3” plastic pans or azalea pots. Use 1 partof very fine sand or very fine perlite and 1 partcoarse peat. pH 6.0-7.0

Pinching: None

Timing: Requires approximately 4 months to produce ablooming plant from a petiole cutting.

Temperature: 65 degrees (F) minimum

Spacing: 5 plants per square foot

Nutrition: 10—30—30 in the irrigation water at 100 ppm Nrate; or soluble every 14 days.

Watering: must be kept moist at all times (wilt onlyunder severe stress), water must be within 20°Fof leaf temperature or cream blotches of killedchlorophyll will appear on foliage.

Insects: Cyclamen mites

Diseases: Crown rot, powdery mildew, leaf spot, nematodes

Other Considerations: Keep in light intensity of 800 footcandles for propagation and youngplants. Increase light intensity to1000 to 1200 foot candles as soon assmall plants are established. 1500foot candles maximum.

Varieties: Choose short petioled varieties, there are hundreds ofvarieties available, new ones each year; customerswant to buy labeled plants, so individual potsmust be labeled with the varieties; care cards are agood idea.

—61—

rCosts of Production: 20 weeis at 5C = $1.00 per square foot [$1.00 ; 5 = 20 per plant. Add cost of

cuttings or small plant and pot.

Handling, Packing, Shipping: leaves are brittle, plants are [often allowed to wilt slightly tosoften leaves so there is lessbreakage; must be well insulatedin cold weather.

Home Care: African violets do best when watered from the bottom.If leaves are wetted with water that is cooler orwarmer than the air, light-colored spots will developon them. If the petioles (leaf stems) lie acrossthe wet clay rim of a flower pot, they may rot. Toprevent this, cover the rim with parafilm or aluminumfoil.

r[CCCCCC

CC

-62- [

AZALEA(Rhododendron hybrid)

Production and Marketing Period: Christmas through Mother’s Day

Method of Propagation: Buy small budded plants

Cultural Procedures:

Potting: Pot plants in 5” plastic azalea pots on arrival andplace in cold storage at 40 degrees. Do not allowstorage temperatures to go above 40 degrees inunlighted storage. (Could buy pre-cooled plantsand eliminate this step.) Use coarse peat for thepotting mix (azaleas must have air and moisturearound the roots). pH 5.0—6.0

Timing: Allow 4 weeks of cold storage and 6 weeks at 65degrees for early forcing at Christmas, January, andFebruary. For plants forced later, allow 2 to 4weeks depending upon time of forcing and varieties.

Temperature: 40 degrees (F) storage and 65 degrees (F) fprcing

Spacing: 5 plants per square foot

Nutrition: 20—5—5 every two weeks

Watering: need thorough watering

Insects: red spider, thrips, aphis, mealy bugs

Diseases: Phytophthora root rot, nematodes

Other Considerations: Do not allow peat to dry out butavoid over watering. Keep peatmoist but not wet in storage.Also, advanced plants can be held inunlighted 35 degree storage at the“bud color” stage for 2-4 weeks

Varieties: Listed by forcing groups

A Coral Bells, Coral Bells Supreme

B Ambrosier, Alaska, Albion, Alic Mueller, ApricotQueen, Chimes, Chimes Sport, Constance, Delight,Dorothy Gish, Dr. Bergman, Early Wonder, Eclaireur,Eric Schame, Gloria, Firelight, Hexe, Pink Ruffles,Pocahontas, Purity, Red Cap, Red Wings, Rhapsody,Rose Queen, Salmon Glow, Snow, Snowbank, Snow Queen,Sunset, Triumphe, Vervaeneana, Westwood Red

C Albert and Elizabeth, Empress of India, Glory ofEaster, Jean Haerens, Knute Erwin, Mrs. Fred Sanders,Sweetheart Supreme

—63—

[D Baby Pericat, Easter Parade, Marjory Ann, Mme. [Pericat, Pericat, Pink Pericat, Rose Pericat,

Sun Valley

Forcing Schedule: Based on number of days to bloom. [Forcing Group

Start at 50°F

60° F — 65°F

Buds showcolor

In bloom for

A B A B A&B C ABCDA,B,C,&D

27 42 27 41 28 42 720 35 23 34 18 35 521.

5 5 7 7 7 7 44

Phanksgiving Christmas Valentine’s EIEEE Mother’sDay Day

Cost of Production: Average cost of production per pot includingstorage 25. Add cost of plants and pots.

Home Care: The potted azalea, from the florist, is usually not hardyin cold—winter areas, so it can’t be set into theground permanently afterwards in the North. On theother hand, it probably can’t be kept as a bloominghouse pot plant either, since the 4 weeks of 40 degreetemperature needed for bud set are not possible inmost homes or apartments. The flowering period can,however, be extended by taking it at night to a placeas cool as 60 degrees. Give it all the sunlight possible during the day. Keep the growing medium moist.Syringing or misting the leaves occasionally willprevent them from drying and falling off. Afterfreezing weather is past, the plant can be set outdoors to serve as an attractive small shrub throughthe season. It will need 4 to 6 weeks of 40 degreeweather the next fall to set buds for bloom thefollowing spring. The plant must not freeze.

Azaleas do not do well in desert climates, however,some gardeners have found that they can grow them inthe desert by providing a micro-climate.

Reference: Penn State University, Greenhouse Crop Production,pps. 139—140.

—64—

rrrr[LUUUCUrCU[U

GERAIUM(Pelargonium hortorum)

Production and Marketing Period: Entire year (heavy in spring)

Method of Propagation: 3 inch terminal cuttings with 75°F bottomheat. Irrigate with water only untilroots begin to develop (14—21 days) , thenstart regular feeding program.

Cultural Procedures:

Potting: Cuttings potted directly to 4” azalea pots. Eitherrooted or unrooted cuttings can be used. Soilshould be porous, but not too high in organicmatter. pH 6.0—7.0

Pinching: Do not pinch. Give plants adequate space toinduce natural branching.

Timing: Unrooted cuttings require approximately 3 to 4 weeksto establish a good root system in 4” pots. Afterrooting, saleable plants can be produced in bloomin 8 to 10 weeks, depending upon season of year.

Temperature: 60 degrees for growing and 55 degrees for holding

Spacing: 4” pots can be placed 2.5 pots per square foot

Nutrition: Constant liquid feed 20—20-20 at 200 ppm N rate;too high N gives poor flowering and heavyfoliage; low K gives brown leaf margins. Solublesalts below 80 “K”.

Watering: May be allowed to wilt slightly between waterings

Insects: White flies, two—spotted mites (but not any bigproblems)

Diseases: Pythium rot, bacterial stem rot (brought on bytoo much water), Verticillium wilt, Botrytis,blight, viruses, odema.

Other Considerations: Keep potash level at 20 to 30 partsper million.

Varieties: Edna, Irene, Better Times, Snowball, Olympic Red,Penny, Firechief, Imp. Red Fiat, Enchantress Fiat,Improved Ricard

Cost of Production: Unrooted cuttings planted direct, 12 weeksat5perweek=602.5 plants per sq. ft. = 60 ; 2.5 = 16 perplant. Add cost of cuttings and pot.

Home Care: Regardless of kind, these popular pot plants grow bestin a sunny place with cool night temperatures of 55-60 degrees. Keep the soil moist. Feed monthly.

—65—

rCOLEUS [(Coleum Blumei)

Production and Marketing Period: Entire Year [Method of Propagation: Seed or cuttings at 70—80 degrees

Cultural Procedures: rPotting: Pot seedlings from seed flats direct to finish 4”

pots. Cuttings can be potted direct in finishpots either rooted or unrooted. Standard soilmixture.

Pinching: Then grown from seed, pinch tips out of seedlingsafter potting as soon as four sets of leavesdevelop. Then grown from cuttings, pinch tipsout of cuttings on day they are potted.

Timing: From seed sowing to potting 6 to 7 weeks. Rooting rcuttings 1 to 2 weeks. From potting to sale in [finished pots — seedlings 4 to 5 weeks. Fromcuttings to sale in finish pots 3 weeks, in springand sununer, 4 to 5 weeks in fall and winter. [

Temperature: 60 degrees

Spacing: 6 plants per square foot

Nutrition: Average feeding schedule with 10—10-10

Watering: Likes average moisture

Insects: Mealy bugs, Thitefly [Diseases: Wilt (black—leg)

Other Considerations: When unrooted cuttings are planted [directly in finish pots, apply cheesecloth treatment for five days.Apply starter solution as soon asroots appear through soil ball but Lnot on potting date. For cuttingpropagation, use named varieties. [

Varieties: Anna Pfitzer, Brilliancy, Climax, L.V. Pearson,Freshman, Golden Banded, Hollywood Crimson, Purdue, -

Spokane, Setting Sun, Texas A & M, Triple, VariegatedTurner, Lincoln

Cost of Production: Froth seed 5 week schedule 4.2 per plantFrom cuttings 3 week schedule 2.5?? per plantFrom cuttings 5 week schedule 4.2?? per plantAdd cost of seedlings or cuttings and pots.

-66-

CYCLANEN(Cyclanen indicum)

Production and Marketing Period: November through March

Method of Propagation: Can be raised from seed to flower in 18months, however most growers buy 2 1/4”plants for growing out.

Cultural Procedures:

Potting: Plant 2 1/411 plants in 4” azalea pots using mostlynon—acid peat or leaf mold with perhaps 25—33%soil. A later shift to a 6” pot can be used forlarger plants, however, this will delay the flowering

Timing: Use well established plants for potting in Septemberand October. Plants will begin blooming in Januaryand will be saleable through March and April.Plants bloom when they are fairly pot bound.

Temperature: As close to 55 degrees (F) as possible.

Spacing: 4 plants per square foot

Nutrition: Feeding should be held off unless plants absolutelyneed it, during October — and till plants aredefinitely setting buds. Heavy feedingencourages leafy, rank growth, — and no buds.

Watering: Plants need a moist but well drained media. Heavywatering encourages leafy, rank growth.

Insects: Cyclamen mite, nematode

Diseases: Bacterial rot, Gray mold, Botrytis

Other Considerations: Ventilate houses well, cooled greenhouses are essential.

Varieties: Many available in small pots

Cost of Production: 12 weeks at 5 = 6O6O . 4 = 15C for early blooming plants.2O for later blooming plants. Addcost of small .plants and pots. -

—67—

UCALADIUM

(Caladiuiu bicolor)

Production and Marketing Period: Spring and Suimner

Method of Propagation: Tubers

Cultural Procedures: UPotting: Plant tubers in a light mix consisting mostly of

peat moss. *2 tuber (1—1 1/2” across) in 4” pot#1 tuber (1 1/2 — 2 1/2” across) in5” potJumbo (2 1/2 — 3 1/2” across) in 6”potMammoth (3 1/2” or more) in 6” or largerpot

Strap—leaf varieities can be potted in pots smallerthan those reconunended for the same grade standardvariety.

Pinching: None

Timing: Will require 5 to 6 weeks from dry bulb to sale forFebruary, March, and April plantings; 3 weeks forplantings made from May through August.

Temperature: 70 degrees minimum, doing their best at 75— U85°F

Spacing: 4” pots 7 per: square foot5” pots 5 per: square foot6” pots 3 per: square foot

Nutrition: Balanced fertilizer (not too much nitrogen) everyfour weeks. Possibly a 5—10—10.

Watering: Keep fairly dry until root action has started; Uthereafter, the more water the better, however,do not water log.

Insects: No big problems UDiseases: No big problems

Other Considerations: Keep the humidity high.

Varieties: Candidum — white with green veinsPoecile Anglais — deep crimson with deep green borderCarolyn Thorton — rose, darker veins, green hueEdna — large glossy brilliant leavesFreida Remple — dwarf all—purpose redItacapus - spotted deep redTexas Beauty — dwarf, bronze—green with pink blotchesLord Derby — transparent rose with dark ribs [

—68—

Costs of Production: 3 week schedule 4” pots —— 2.6Q per plant5 week schedule 4” pots —— 3.5C per plant3 week schedule 5” pots —— 3.O per plant5 week schedule 5” pots —— 5.Oct per plant3 week schedule 6” pots —— 5.O per plant5 week schedule 6” pots —— 8.3C per plant

—69—

UHYDRANGEA [(Hydrangea macrophylla)

Production and Marketing Period: Easter and Mother’s Day

Method of Propagation: It is best for the average grower topurchase forcing size, dormant, pre—cooled plants for forcing.

Cultural Procedures: [Potting: Plant in next size larger than received, usually

into 6” standard. Soil mix should be light andwell drained. pH 6.5 to 7.0 for pink and whiteflowers, pH 6.0 to 5.0 for blue flowers.

Timing: Require about 120-day schedule for Strafford,Merveille, and Engle’s white; 10 days longerfor Rose Supreme

Temperature: Forcing takes place at a temperature of 60°F, Uhigher temperatures result in more rapidgrowth but stems will be short and flowerssmall. A combination of initial forcing at70°F followed by 55—60°F after flowers arevisable will produce short plants with largeflowers. U

Spacing: 1 pot per square foot

Nutrition: 20—10—10 in irrigation system at 200 ppm N rate. UAdditional phosphorus may be needed for pinkflowers. And additional potassium may beneeded for blue flowers. U

Watering: Should not be allowed to dry out.

Insects: Red spider, aphids UDiseases: Bud rot, grey mold, iron chlorosis

Other Considerations: The color in the Hydrangea flower isdue to the anthocyanin contained inthe flower parts of the pink—bluevarieties. White varieties containessentially no pigment, although,some may develop with age. Anthocyaninis normally red and flowers developa pink color if the pH is kept at6.5 or above. If the pH drops below6.0, certain metals in the soilbecome more readily available andcombine with the anthocyanin to forma blue color. U

Varieties: Strafford, Merville, Engle’s White, Rose Supreme,Todi Monte Forte Perle, Merritt’s Supreme, Red Cap

—70—

Forcing Schedule: based on number of days to bloom

Days Development

117 remove from cold storage and place at 50 degrees F.

96 55 degrees F, buds swelling

86 leaves unfolding

82 60 degrees F, 2 — 4 leaves showing

78 6 leaves

73 8 — 10 leaves

67 flower head just visible

61 flower head dime size

54 flower head nickle size

48 flower head quarter size

41 flower head half—dollar size

30 flower head silver dollar size

27 bracts developing

24 bracts expanded

18 bracts coloring

13 bracts colored and hardening

4 harden at 50 degrees F

0 Sales

—71—

ROSE r(Rosa hybrid)

Production and Marketing Period: Valentine’s Day, Easter,Mother’s Day, Memorial Day

Methods of Propagation: Purchase forcing size, dormant plants; [ordered one year in advance; pot uponreceipt, water, and hold at 35 to 40degrees until forcing time. [

Cultural Procedures:

Potting: Use a standard, well—drained soil mix putting [sweetheart type roses in standard 7” pots andminiature type roses in standard 4” pots. pH 6.0-7.

Timing: Require approximately 2 1/4 to 3 1/2 months,depending upon the time of year, to produce ablooming plant. [

Temperature: Hold at 35°F until time to force, then raiseto 50°F and later to 60°F [

Spacing: 4” pots 2 per square foot7” pots 1 per square foot

Nutrition: 20-20-20 in irrigation water at 150 ppm N rate;or soluble at 2—week intervals.

Waterings: Do not allow to wilt. [Insects: Aphids, two-spotted mites, thrips

Diseases: Powdery mildrew, black spot

Varieties: Sweetheart Type: Bright Pink Garnette, Carol Amling, -

Dick Koster, Garnette, Orange Rumba, Margo Roster,Mother’s Day, Pink Marvel, Scarlet Marvel,Skylark, Summer Snow, Thunderbird, Triumphed’ Orleans

Miniature Type: Baby Cold Star, Bo—Peep, ChipperCinderella, Eleanor, Midget, Pixie,Pixie Gold, Pixie Rose, Red Imp,Scarlet Gem Starina

Forcing Schedule: Based on number of days to bloom. [Start at 50°F 102 83 79 76Raise to 55°F 75 63 58 55Raise to 60°F 61 51 -44 41Buds visible 42 40 31 21Buds in color 13 12 10 4In bloom Valentine’s Easter Mother’s Memorial LDay Day Day

Reference: Penn State University, Greenhouse Crop Production,pps. 137—138. [

-72-

[

APPENDIX C

CUT FLOWER PRODUCTION

—73—

II£1*

CUT FLOWER PRODUCTION(Source: Penn. State Greenhouse Crop Production)

CARNATIONS(Dianthus caryophyllus)

Production and Marketing Period: Entire year

Methods of Propagation: Rooted terminal cuttings.

Cultural Procedures:

Timing: Long days speed flower bud initiation. Lightingcan be used to flush a crop for a holiday. Twoweeks of lighting gives a flush of flowers approximately 4 months later.

Soil: Coarse, porous, sterilized, containing at least 25%peat moss by volumn.

Spacing: 6 X 8 inches

Nutrition: 20—5—30 soluble fertilizer in the irrigationwater at 200 ppm N rate. Single “booster”applications at 400 ppm N rate should be madeat time of growth spurts in spring and fall.

Temperature: Sunmier Fall Winter Spring

Day 70°F 65°F 60°? 65°?

Nite 60—65°F 50°F 48—50°F 55°F

Pinching: First pinch 3—4 weeks after planting. Determiningfactor is speed of lateral growth. Once sideshoots in, leaf axils, have “freed themselves’(the first joint or node is visable) the main shootshould be pinched. Remove top, leaving 4-6 pairof leaves.

Pinch laterals about 5 weeks after first pinch.Pinch only 1/2 of the total number of lateralsin order to provide a longer flower productionperiod.

Disbudding: Excess flower buds along stem should beremoved. Allow terminal bud to flower.

Insects: Two—spotted mite, thrips, aphids.

Diseases: Rhizoctonia stem rot, Fusarium wilt and rot,botrytis.

Other Considerations: Stems need support by means of wiregrids or layers of wire and stringThe first grid should be 6 inches abovethe soil, each succeeding grid shouldbe 12 inches apart.

—74—

rHarvesting and Grading: [

Flowers are not actually cut, but snapped off at a joint(or node) . Center petals should be extended forming ahemisphere. If harvested too “tight”, the blooms mayfail to open. Cut in morning, grade, bunch (25 per bunch), -

and place in water in 40°F refrigerator.

Society of American Florists Standard Carnation Grades [Minimum flower Minimum stem -

Grade diameter in inches length in inches -

Blue 2—3/4, up 22

Red 2—1/4 17 [Green any 10

White all “splits” {UUCCUC

C[C

-75- C

CHRYSANTHEMUM(Chrysanthemum morifolium)

Production and Marketing Period: Entire year

Methods of Propagation: Rooted Cuttings.

Cultural Procedures:

Pinching: None, grow as a simple stem crop.

Timing: Long days: Give 3 weeks of long days after benching (more for longer stem length). Additionallights for 4 hours each night will be needed fromAugust 1 to May 1.Short days: After period of long days, plantsshould go on short days continuously until flowered.Natural day length from September 1 to April 1 issufficient for flower bud formation and development. From April 1 to September 1 plants shouldbe covered with black shade cloth from 5 p.m. to6 a.m. daily until flowered. Varieties in the10 week response group react quite well.

Soil: Coarse, porous soil which is sterilized.

Spacing: 4 X 6 inches.

Nutrition: 20—20—20 soluble fertilizer in the irrigationwater at a 200 ppm N rate. After time when budsshow color, a 12—0—43 fertilizer at a 200 ppmN rate.

Watering: High demand during early growth, tapering off asbuds develop.

Temperature: Start at 62—65°F night temperature. 2 weeksafter beginning of short days, lower to 60—62°F.

Insects: Aphids, cyclamen mites, leaf miners, mealy bugs,red spider, thrips, white fly.

Diseases: Root rot, verticillium wilt, leaf spot.

Other Considerations: Flowers may be disbudded and grown asa Standard or Disbud OR grown as aDis—spray or Spray.

Standard — Any large—flowered type, all lateral flowerbuds removed.

Disbud - Any spray—type grown with lateral flower budsremoved.

Disspray — Any spray—type with the central flower budremoved to improve the spray formation.

—76—

Spray — any spray—type (pompon, anemone, decorativedaisy, spider, fujii, spoon) grown withoutremoval of any flower buds.

Inspection Standards:

1. Similar varietal characteristics

2. Bright, clean, and not badly wilted flowers and leaves

3. Normal shape of flowers for the kind of variety andplaced approximately at right angle to the stem

4. Fairly tight——with center “petals” unopened and notexposing the center of the flower

5. Free of injury, defect, dirt, or other foreign materials;discoloration, insects, diseases, or nutritional chemicalor mechanical abnormality which affects the appearanceor shipping quality

6. Fairly straight, stiff stems capable of supporting theflower in an upright position. [

7. Foliage should be stripped from not more than the lowerone—third of the stem

Reference: Penn State University, Greenhouse Crop Production,

r

Lr[1

r.

Standard Disbud Disspray

Society of American Florists Standard Chrysanthemum Grades.

Spray r

Blue Red Green YellowGrade Grade Grade Grade

Minimum flower 5-1/2 inch 4—3/4 inch 4 inch 3—1/4 inchDiameter

Minimum stem 30 inch 30 inch 24 inch 18 inchLength

rUrC

C

p. 152LC— 77 —

ROSE(Rosa hybrida)

Production and Marketing Period: Peaks at Christmas, Valentine’sDay, Easter, and Mother’s Day,but sold throughout the year.

Method of Propagation: Dormant Hybrid Tea and/or Sweetheartplants ordered one year in advance ofplanting in later spring, replanted every4 years.

Cultural Procedures:

Timing: Pinching pea—sized buds 8 weeks before Christmas,8 weeks before Valentine’s Day, 7 or 6 weeks beforeEaster, 5 weeks before Mother’s Day.

Soil: Coarse, porous soil which is sterilized.

Nutrition: 20-20—20 soluble fertilizer in the irrigationwater at a 200 ppm N rate. After time when budsshow color, a 12—0—43 fertilizer at a 200 ppm Nrate.

Temperature: 58°F to 62°F night, depending upon cultivar;washed air cooling essential in sunnier.

Insects: Two-spotted mites, aphids, thrips, nematodes,white flies, scale.

Diseases: Mildew, black spot, canker, verticillium wilt.

Other Considerations: Keep light intensity as high as possible with temperature control.1500 ppm carbon dioxide gives highproduction and good quality.

Harvesting and Grading:

Cut in morning and afternoon; when sepals curl or first petalopens; in fall and winter leave stub with two 5—leafletleaves, in spring and sunnier cut to a “hook”; refrigeratequickly in water with flower preservatives; may be held at31°F as for carnations.

Roses are graded according to 3-inch stem length increments;13 or 25 roses are spirally wrapped in a sheet of paper tomake a bunch.

—78—

rSNAPDRAGONS C

(Antirrhinuin majus)

rProduction and Marketing Period: Entire year LMethods of Propagation: Seed germinated under intermittant mist

or in flats covered with glass or plas— 1tic. Temperature 65—70 degrees (F) . Readyfor transplanting in 3—4 weeks (should -be about 1” high with the first set oftrue leaves) . -

Cultural Procedures: [Timing: 3 to 4 months, seed to flower, depending on the

season of the year.

Soil: porous, well drained soil, must be steamed, and lowin soluble salts.

Spacing: single—stem crops, 4 X 4 inches for suimner flowering [and 4 X 6 inches for winter flowering; pinchedcrops, 8 X 8 inches.

Nutrition: 20—20—20 soluble fertilizer in the irrigationwater at 100—200 ppm N rate. When buds becomevisable stop fertilizing. C

Watering: slight wilting before watering is desirable forthe prevention of soft stems. Particularly rimportant during dull weather of winter months. LDo not allow to wilt after florets begin to expand.

Temperature: during winter, late fall and early spring,nite temperature of 50°F; days 55—60°F. Duringspring, swmner, and early fall, nite temperatureof 60°F.

Insects: aphids, thrips, two-spotted mites, white fly,cyclamen mites, cabbage looper. [Diseases: powdery mildew, stem rot, root rot.

Other Considerations: adding 700—1000 ppm CO2 gives more tuniform cropping.

Floret drop or “shatter”: caused primarily by pollination by bees and otherinsects and the effect of

• gasses such as ethylene.

Floret skip: a condition in which some florets of aspike fail to develop. Problem arises -

only if plants are subjected to unusually cool temperatures during the formation of the spike.

-79- C

Harvesting, Grading, and Bunching:

Flowers should be cut when from 6 to 15 of the florets arefully open. Cut stem just above the soil. Inunediatelyafter cutting, strip lower 6 inches of foliage, place inwater, in a 40°F refrigerator.

SOCIETY OF AMERICAN FLORISTS STANDARD SNAPDRAGON GRADES

Grade Minimum Number Minimum StemDesignation of Open Flowers Length in Inches

Blue 15 36

Red 12 30

Green 9 24

Yellow 6 18

When snapdragons are shipped, they are packed in upright,hamper—type containers. The reason for this is becausesnapdragons tend to bend upward at the tip if they remainin a horizontal position for 2 hours or more.

—80—

I.

APPENDIX D

STORAGE OF CUT FLOWERS

—81—

STORAGE OF CUT FLOWERS

Anthurium — Stored 3—4 weeks at 56°F in water and preservativeharvested at 3/4 flowering stageflowers darken when stored at 45°F or below

Aster — Stored one week at 40°F (no longer)

Bouvardia - Stored at 32—33°F

Calla — Don’t gather flowers until spathe on plant curls downwardspull flower don’t cut (separates stem from rhizome)stored 7 days at 40°F

Carnations — Cutting time important; inunediately after petalsbegin unfolding store 3-4 weeks at 32—35°Fcontainer should never be gas tight (anaerobic respiration)

Chrysanthemums — On large types, cut after greening disappears fromcenter of flower; pompoms are usually cut latercan be stored in dry pack at 32—35°F for 3-6 weeks(normal storage period is 2 weeks)disease problems are great at 36—44°F (esp. Botrytis)

Columbine & Delphinium - Petals of flowers shed very rapidly;cannot be held below 40°F for more than1—2 days

Daffodils — In dry pack at 32-33°F for 10—14 days sometimes up to3 weeks flowers need to be near perfect in order tostore

Dahlia — Store for 2—5 days at 40°?innnerse stems in boiling water for 30 seconds inunediatelyafter cutting

Gardenia — Usually not storedwith special handling and dry pack, they can be storedat 32—33°F for up to 2 weeks

Gladiolus — Normally harvested when 3-4 florets at base of spikeare open stored for maxium of 6—8 days at 35—40°F(35°F can produce chilling injury)stored upright and need good ventilation when stored

Hyachinth & Freesia — Can be stored up to 2 weeks at 32—35°Fstore vertically

Dutch Iris — Store in bud stage at 31—32°F for 2-4 weeks

Easter Lily — Cut when corolla is 1/2 open (just before reflexingof petals) hold at 50°F for 24 hours for forcingjust before placing in storagecan be held in dry pack for 2—3 week at 32—35°F

—82—

ULily of the Valley — Harvest when terminal flower bell loses its [deep green color and lower bells are open -

held for 2—3 weeks at 31—32°F in dry packOR in water for 1 week [

Lupine, Counuon Stock, English DaisyCalendula, Sweet Violet, andGaillardia (perennial) — Hold for maximum for 3 days

at 40°F

Orchids — Cut immediately upon reaching saleable condition [can be stored in dry pack for 2 weeks at 45—50°F(lower temperatures damage flower color)

Peonies — Harvested in tight bud stage -

dry storage at 32—35°F up to 4—5 weeks (2—3 weeks if budis opening when harvested)

Poinsettia — Stems placed in boiling water for JO secondsstorage up to 2 weeks at 45—50°F

Poppy — Stems in hot water to prevent sap blockage

Roses — Harvest with tight bud (but not so tight that it won’topen)immerse in 100—110 degree water with preservative forhardeninghold at 35—40°F far 3-4 hours before grading THENhold 6—10 hours at 35—40°F before shipping

r[cUCCU

-83- L

APPENDIX E

COMMON HOUSE PLANTS

—84—

COMMON HOUSE PLANTS(Source: Alabama State Dept. of Educ. Ornamental

Horticulture for Vocational Agriculture in Alabama)

Key to Cultural Notes

TEMPERATURE C = Cool — Nite 40-50 degrees F.Day 55—60 degrees F.

I = Intermediate — Nite 50—55 degrees F.Day 70 degrees F.

W = Warn — Nite 62—65 degrees F.Day 80—85 degrees F.

LOCATION P = Tolerates dry air, low light

A = Average house conditions

T = Humid — greenhouse, terrarium, etc.

SOIL L = 1/3 peat, 2/3 soil

H = 1/3 peat, 1/3 sand, 1/3 perlite

0 = 2/3 osmunda, 1/3 spagnum

LIGHT B = Bright — full sun

F = Filtered - diffused sun light

S = Shade — no direct sun light

MOISTURE 0 = Dry — allow to dry out between waterings

M = Moist — not constantly wet

N = Wet — keep wet

—85—

rScientific Name (Cultural Notes) Plant Description, Growth [Common Name Habit, and Propagation

Aglaonema conunutatum (WPLFM) Alt. lvs. oblong—lanceolate,obtuse at base, apex long—acuminate, green marked withspots of paler green and offwhite; petiole, long sheathed.GROWTH: upright. PROP: seedor division. [

Aglaonema costatum (WPLFM) Lvs. heart—shaped, thick, 1/3longer than wide, dark greenwith midrib ivory-white andscattering blotches of white.GROWTH: low, upright. PROP:seed or division.

Aglaonema modestum (WPLSN) Lvs. alternate, green, ovate,(Aylaonema simplex) tip acuminate, veins sunken,Chinese Evergreen margin wavy, petiole round.

GROWTH: upright. PROP: leafcutting. [

Anthurium sp. (WTHFN) Ins, rosette, lanceolate,Anthurium leathery. Flower bract in vivid

red, luscious pinks, or white.GROWTH: upright, spreading.PROP: suckers or cuttingsof rhizomes. [

Aphelandra squarrosa (WTHFM) Lvs. opp. petioled, darkZebra Plant green above (pale below) with

white rib and main veins.GROWTH: upright. PROP: seedand stem cuttings.

Araucaria excelsa (IPHfl1) Needle lvs., whorled branches,Norfolk Island Pine lvs. curved and sharp pointed.

GROWTH: upright. PROP: seedand cuttings.

Asparagus plumosus (IALFM) Lvs. lacy, fern—like fronds.Fern Asparagus Needle—like branchlets with

wiry stems. GROWTH:upright, spreading. PROP:division or runners. [

Asparagus sprengeri (IALFM) Lvs. spike—like, one inch long,Sprenger Asparagus thorny, in light green bunches.

GROWTH; upright, spreading.PROP: division or runners.

[-86-

Aspidistra elatior (IALSM) Lvs. long, stiff, evergreen, oblong—Cast—Iron Plant lanceolate, sharp—pointed, radical,

blade narrowed into a channeledpetiole 1/2 of length. GROWTH:upright. PROP: division.

Asplenium nidus (ITHSM) Lvs. leathery, wavy margins, oblan—Birdsnest Fern ceolate fronds, shining green.

GROWTH: upright fronds. PROP:division.

Aucuba japonica (CALFO) Lvs. opposite, ovate, remotely ofJapanese Aucuba coarsely dentate, obtusely acuminate,

shining. GROWTH: upright.PROP: cuttings.

Begonia rex (IALFM) Lvs. shield—like, some crisped orRex Begonia wavy—margined, curled or crested.

Leaves have colored bands or mott—lings. GROWTH: upright, spreading.PROP: leaf cutting or division.

Begonia semperfiorens (WALBM) Lvs. bright green, bronzy, or reddishWax Begonia often with red—tinged ribs.

Fibrous—rooted. Flowers single ordouble, in white, red, rose, orpink shades, borne in clusters amongthe leaves. GROWTH: upright,spreading. PROP: leaf cutting ordivision.

Brassaia actinophylla (WALSD) Palmately compound, 6—8 leaflets inSchefflera horizontal tiers at the ends of

long stalks. GROWTH: upright.PROP: stem cuttings or air layering.

Caladium bicolor (WAUFN) Lvs. large, arrow—shaped, long—stalkeCaladium colored in bands and blotches of

red, rose, pink, white, silver,bronze, and green. GROWTH: upright.PROP: tuber or division.

Chamaedora elagans (WPLSM) Stem straight, to 6’ high, scarcelyNeantha Bella Palm more than 1—1 1/2” thick; leaves

(Parlor Palm) 6-8” cluster, broadly lanceolate;leaflets, about 14, upper pairsometimes confluent, accuminate,straight. GROWTH: upright.PROP: division or seed.

Chlorophytum comosum (IALFM) Lvs. linear, green with white marginsSpider Plant Rosettes with racemes that develop

flowers and tufts of leaves.GROWTH: spreading. PROP: runners.

—87—

CCissus antarctica (IALFMorD) Upright, branches climbing with ten— [Kangaroo Vine drils, hairy lvs. alternate, thick,

glossy, ovate to oblong, more orless cordate, very short acuminate,mostly toothed or notched, green.GROWTH: vine. PROP: stem cuttings.

Cissus rhombifolia (WALFM) Branches angled, not winged, lvs.Grape Ivy 3—foliate, petioled; lfts. all long—

petiolulate, serrate, glabrousabove, the lateral ones obliqueand somewhat cordate, the middleone ovate to rhombovate. GROWTH:vine. PROP: stem cutting. [

Codiaeum variegatum (WALBM) Lvs. alternate, simple, somewhatCroton thick and leathery, pinnately veined,

glabrous. GROWTH: upright.PROP: stem cutting.

Coleus blumei (WALBM) Lvs. opposite, ovate, narrowed or {Coleus broad at base and long—acuminate,sharply, and regularly toothed,various colors. Stem 4—angled.GROWTH: upright. PROP: seed orstem cuttings.

Crassula arborescens (IPLBD) Fleshy, erect shrub, opposite lvs., {Jade Plant roundish—obovate and obtuse, tapering

to base, flat and flaucous, dottedabove, edge smooth. GROWTH: upright.PROP: stem cuttings.

Crossandra undulifolia (WTHFM) Lvs. opposite, ovate—acuminate,(Crossandra infundibulifonnis) stalked; flowers scarlet—orange,Fire cracker Flower axillary. GROWTH: upright. PROP:

stem cuttings.

Cyclamen indicum (persicwn) Lvs. appearing with the flowers,(IAHYM) Cyclamen ovate, crenate—dentate, base deeply

cordate, usually marbled or variegated with white. GROWTH: bushy,spreading. PROP: tubers.

Dieffenbachia amoena (WPLFD) Broad leathery foliage, oblong- [Giant Dwubcane pointed, dark green with white along

veins. GROWTH: upright, tree—like. PROP: air layering [

Dieffenbachia picta (WPLFD) Blade oblong, or oblong—elliptical,Spotted Dumbcane or oblong—lanceolate, round or acute

at base, long acuminate—cuspidateapex, green with numerous irregularoblong or linear spots betweenveins. GROWTH: upright. PROP:air layering.

-88— {

Dieffenbachia pict ‘R. Roehrsi’ Lvs. amost entirely green(WPLfl4) margin, blotched ivory white.

Gold Dieffenbachia GROWTH: upright, tree—like.PROP: air layering.

Dizygotheca elegantissima Lvs. palmately compound, red—brown,(WALFM) GROWTH: upright, tree-like.

Spider Aralia PROP: seed or air layer.

Dracaena demerensis ‘Warnecki’ Strap shaped leaves, green with(WALFM) white stripe along blade, 18”

Striped Dracaena long, 2” wide, narrowed intoWarnecki Dracaena broad petiole-like base. GROWTH:

upright. PROP: air layering.

Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’ Lvs. sessile, oblanceolate, lax(WALFM) and spreading or recurved, flaccid,

Cornstalk Plant green and shining, acute,indistinctly costate, withyellow center stripe. GROWTH:upright, tree-like. PROP: airlayering.

Dracaena godseffiana (WALFN) Lvs. opp. or whorled in 3’s,Gold Dust Dracaena oblong or obovate, sessile,

spotted white. GROWTH: upright.PROP: air layering.

Dracaena marginata (WALFM) Lvs. sword—shaped, dense, spreading,Madagascar Dragon Tree margin brown. GROWTH: upright,

spreading, tree—like. PROP: airlayering.

Dracaena sanderiana (WALFM) Dwarf, gray—green lvs. with creamRibbon margins, distant, alternate,

spreading or recurved, narrowlylanceolate, acuminate or ratherpetiole. GROWTH: upright.PROP: air layering.

Euphorbia mliii (splendens) Stem covered with stout spines 1”(WPLBD) long, lvs. few on young growth,

Crown of Thorns obovate to oblong—spatulate,thin, bright green. Red flower.GROWTH: upright. PROP: stemcuttings.

Fatsia aponica (CALFM) Lvs. alt., palmately lobed, 9Japanese Aralia lobes, margin serrate, wavy, dark

shining green. GROWTH: upright,tree—like. PROP: stem cuttings.

Ficus benjamina (WALBM) Lvs. shiny green, leathery,Weeping Fig poplar—like on drooping branches.

GROWTH: upright. PROP: airlayering.

—89—

CFicus elastica decora (WALEM) Broad leaf, leathery, oblong to [India Rubber Plant elliptical, sunken veins, mid-rib

ivory. GROWTH: upright, tree-like. PROP: stem cutting or airlayering.

Ficus pandurata (lyrata) Fiddle—shaped leaf, cordate at base,(WALFM) leathery, deep waxy green, yellow—

Fiddleleaf Fig green veins. GROWTH: upright,tree-like. PROP: air layering.

Ficus pumila (repens) (WALFM) Lvs. more or less 2—ranked, shortClimbing Fig petiole, ovate, obtuse, entire or

slightly wavy, round or cordate [at base. GROWTH: vine. PROP:stem cuttings.

Fittonia verschaffelti (WTLFM) Lvs. opp. ovate, cordate at base,(Fittonia argyroneura) green with white veins. Stem 4Nerve Plant angled, white pubescent. GROWTH:

low, spreading. PROP: stemcutting.

Fuchsia hybrida (IPLFM) Lvs. opp., ovate, serrate margin;Fuchsia red stem, petiole, and veins.

Fls. axillary. GROWTH: upright,spreading. PROP: sftwd. cutting

Gynura sannentosa (WALBM) Lvs. elliptic—ovate, green; stems(Gynura aurantiona) densely covered with velvet hairs.Velvet Plant Some var. have purplish color.

GROWTH: upright. PROP: leaf orstem cutting, or division.

Hedera canariensis (WALFM) Lvs. large, bright green, roundish [Algerian Ivy ovate, usually cordate at base,

entire or with 3—7 rather shortlobes of almost equal size.GROWTH: vine. PROP: stem cuttings.

Hedera helix (WPLBM) Lvs. usually 3—5 lobed, dark greenEnglish Ivy above, pale or yellowish green L

beneath. GROWTH: vine. PROP:stem cuttings.

Helzine soleiroli (ITHFM) Lvs. alt, reddish, cordate—Baby Tears reiform; slender stem. GROWTH:

low, spreaking. PROP: division. [Hippeastrum sp. (WAHFM) Bulbous, bulbs truncate. Lvs.Cormuon Amaryllis broad, strap—shaped. GROWTH:

upright. PROP: division.

Howea belomreana (WPLFM) Lvs. pinnate fronds, waxy deepKentia Palm green. GROWTH: bushy, tree—like.

PROP: seed.

-90- C

Hoya carnosa (WPHFD) Opp. lvs. succulent, glabrous, shining,Wax Plant ovate—oblong, acute, short stalked,

entire. GROWTH: vining. PROP:stem cuttings.

Hoya carnosa variegata (WAHFD)Lvs. white variegations. GROWTH:Variegated Wax Plant vining. PROP: stem cuttings.

Hoya carnosa compacta (WAHFD) Lvs. crinkly, very close spaced onHindu Rope short stems. GROWTh: vining.

PROP: stem cuttings.

Hydrangea macrophylla (IAIIFM) Lvs. thick, shining, coarselyHydrangea toothed to 8” long, oblong—ovate

to elliptic—lanceolate, acuminate,sparingly strigose or nearlyglabrous above, densely strigosebelow. GROWTH: upright, spreading,rounded. PROP: stem cuttings orlayering.

Ypoestes sanguinolenta Lvs. ovate, green with rosy—red(WAHBM) markings. GROWTH: upright.

Pink Polka—dot Plant PROP: cuttings or layering.

Iresine herbstii ‘aureoreti— Lvs. oval to round, notched at top;culata’ purplish—red with lighter midrib

(IAHFM) and veins, or green or bronzedBlood Leaf with yellowish veins. GROWTH:

upright. PROP: stem cuttings.

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana Lvs. fleshy, dark green, edged red,(WABBO) shining, smooth—edged or slightly

Kalanchoe lobed, 2 1/2” long, 1—1 1/2” wide.Small, bright red flowers, in bigclusters held above the leaves.GROWTH: rounded, upright. PROP:leaf cuttings.

Maranta leuconeura (WALFM) Green, brown blotches either sidePrayer Plant of midrib, lvs. oblong to broadly

elliptic, usually obtuse or shortacuminate, flaucous, or red spotbeneath. GROWTH: spreading.PROP: division,offshoots orcuttings.

Monstera deliciosa (WALFM) Lvs. large, pinnately cut and per—Split—Leaf Philodendron forated with oblong holes, leathery.

GROWTH: vine, upright. PROP:air layering.

—91—

rNephrolepis exaltata (cPLFM) Lvs. simple pinnate, rather rigid [Sword Fern and erect, 2—5’ long, 3—6” wide,

oblong, tapering toward point,pinnae rather close, acute, entireor crenulate, the upper sideauricled. GROWTH: droopingfronds. PROP: division or runners.

Pandanus veitchi (WPLFD) Spiny dark green lvs., margin whiteFScrew Pine 2’ long, rosette, recunring, linear

and acute. GROWTH: busy, upright. PROP: air layering.

Pellionia pulchra (WTLFM) Lvs. obliquely oval, 2—ranked,Rainbow Vine light green to grayish, brownish

veins, under surface purplish.GROWTH: spreading. PROP:cuttings or division. [

Peperomia caperata (WPLFD) Lvs. heart—shaped, deeply corru—Emerald Ripple gated and quilted, waxy forest—

green. GROWTH: low, spreading.PROP: cuttings or division.

Peperomia obtusifolia (WPLFD) Lvs. alt., glossy green, obovate, [Ovalleaf Peperomia entire, base acuminate, apexBaby Rubber Plant aristate, reddish petiole, channelled

stem red spotted. GROWTH: upright.PROP: leaf or stem cutting, ordivision.

Peperomia obtusifolia variegata White to creamy—yellow variega— [(WPLFD) tions, yellow—green lvs., succu—

Variegated Peperomia lent, waxy, obovate—elliptic.GROWTH: upright. PROP: leaf orstem cutting, or division.

Peperomia sandersi (WPLFD) Stemless, lvs. alternate, pellate,Watermelon Peperomia blue—green stripes, peiole dark

red. GROWTH: low, upright.PROP: leaf cuttings or division.

Philodendron dubia (WALFN) Lvs. entire when young, becomingCut—Leaf Philodendron cut or hollow—holed upon maturing.

GROWTH: upright vine. PROP:stem cutting.

Philodendron hastatum (WAIFM) Lvs. arrow—shaped, hastate, undu—Spadeleaf Philodendron late, glossy dark green.

GROWTH: upright, vine. PROP:air layering.

L-92-

[

Philodendron oxycardium (WALFM) Lvs. alt. cordate, heart-shaped,(Philodendron cordatum) glossy green. GROWTH: vine.Heartleaf Philodendron PROP: stem cutting or layering.

Philodendron panduraeform Fiddle—shaped leaf with round(WALFM) petiole, closely attached to the

Fiddle—leaf Philodendron stem. GROWTH: vine, upright.PROP: air layering.

Philodendron selloum (WALFM) Stemless, blad pinnatisect,Lacy Tree Philodendron segments again pinnate or lobed;

terminal segments 3—lobed, thecuspidate middle lobe aboutequaling the obtuse lateral ones.GROWTH: upright, vine. PROP:stem cuttings or layering.

Philodendron squamiferum (WALDM) Lvs. 5—lobed, green, petiole red,Anchor—leaf Philodendron covered with red hairs. GROWTH:

vine. PROP: stem cuttings, orlayering.

Pilea cardierei (WAHF—SN) Lvs. oblong, fleshy, toothed, greenAluminum Plant with shiny silver blotches

j between sunken veins. GROWTH:upright. PROP: leafcuttings or division.

Pilea involucrata (WAHFM) Lvs. round, fleshy, quilted, red—Friendship Plant brot’m, crenate margins. GROWTH:Panamiga low, spreading. PROP: stem

cuttings.

Pilea microphylla (WAHFM) Lvs. small, succulent, oblong,Artillery Plant fine twigs, set close together

(fern-like effect). GROWTH:spreading. PROP: stem cuttings.

Pilea ‘Silver Tree’ (WAHFM) Lvs. small oblong with toothedSilver Tree edges, bronze colored with shinySilver & Bronze silver blotches. GROWTH:

spreading, upright. PROP: stemcuttings.

Plectranthus australis (IAEFM) Lvs. round, thick, scalloped edges,Creeping Charlie prominent veins, shining, dark

green. GROWTH: spreading.PROP: stem cuttings.

—93—

CPleomele thalioides (WPLFN) Lvs. lance-shaped, ribbed length-Lance Dracaena wise, glossy green. GROWTH:

upright. PROP: layering.

Podocarpus macrophylla (IPLFM) Lvs. leathery, linear—lanceolate, [Japanese Yew deep green, to 4” long, 1/4”Yew Pine wide. GROWTH: upright, tree.

PROP; stem cuttings. FRhododendron indica (IAHFM) Lvs. alt., entire, elliptic toAzalea lanceolate-oblong, obtuse or

acute, dark green and lustrousabove, paler and slightly stri—gose below, 1-2” long. GROWTH:upright, rounded. PROP: layering,cuttings, grafting.

Rhoeo spathacea (discolor) Lvs. metallic green, red beneath,(IALFM) waxy, lance—shaped, carried in

Moses—in—the—Cradle tufts of a do2en or so on 8” longstems. GROWTH: upright,erect. PROP: suckers.

Saintpaulia ionantha (ITHFM) Lvs. heart—shaped, fuzzy, withAfrican Violet smooth edges, growing in rosettes.

Hybrids may have plain or scalloped,green or variegated leaves.GROWTH: spreading, stemless.PROP: leaf cuttings or division.

Sansevieria hahni (WPLFM) Rosette of dark green lvs. withBirdsnest Sansevieria gray—green cross bands. GROWTH:

low rosette. PROP: leaf cuttingsor division.

Sansevieria trifasciata (WPLFM) Lvs. gray—green, dark greenSnake Plant cross bands, stiff, sword—shaped,

GROWTH: upright, rosette.PROP: leaf cuttings, division.

Sansevieria trifasciata laurenti Lvs. dark green, light green(WPLFM) cross bands, yellow margins, stiff,

Gold Band Sansevieria sword—shaped. GROWTH: upright,rosette. PROP: division.

Saxifraga sanentosa (CALBD) Lvs. round, bristly-haired, CStrawberry Geranium coarsely toothed, rosette,

silver and olive green. GROWTH:loosely tufted, spreading byrunners. PRO?; runners.

CLC

Scindapsus aureus (WAHBD) Lvs. ovate, dark green with yellowPothos variegation. GROWTH: vine.Devil’s Ivy PROP: stem cuttings, layering.

Sinningia speciosa (WTLSM) Lvs. oblong, dark green, toothed,Gloxinia fuzzy, 6” or more long. GROWTH:

upright. PROP: leaf cuttings orby tubers.

Solarium pseudocapsicum Lvs. smooth, shiny, 4” long, deep(WAHDM) green. Showy scarlet fruits like

Jerusalum Cherry miniature tomatoes. GROWTH:upright. PROP: seed.

Spathiphyllum patini (WAHFM) Lvs. lanceolate, petiole round,White Flag spathe white with green midrib.

GROWTH: upright. PROP: division.

Stephanotis floribunda Lvs. thick, waxy, glossy green, to(IALFM) 4” long, elliptic, with short point,

Makagascar Jasmine entire. GROWTH: vine. PROP:cuttings or layering.

Strelitzia reginae (IPLBD) Lvs. oblong, stiff, concave; stalksBird of Paradise all radicled, 2—3 times as long

as lvs. GROWTH: upright. PROP:division.

Syngonium podophyllum Ins, arrow-shaped, glabrous,(WARm) green with white variegation on mid—

Nephthytis rib and lateral veins. GROWTH:upright, creeper. PROP: stemcutting.

Tradescantia tricolor (IALFD) Lvs. elliptic, olive green, under—Wandering Jew side purplish and dense, silver,

hairy. GROWTH: upright,spreading vine. PROP: stem cuttingor division.

Tolmiea menziesii (CPLFD) Lvs. heart—shaped, shallow lobedPiggy Back Plant and toothed, rather hairy. Lvs.

produce new plantlets at junctionof leaf stalk and blade. GROWTH:spreading. PROP: leaf cutting.

Zygocactus trumcatus (WAHFN) Arching, drooping branches madeTSchlumbergera bridgesii) up of flattened, scalloped, smooth,Christmas Cactus bright green, spineless, 1 1/2”

joints. GROWTH: spreading.PROP: leaf (joint) cutting.

—95—

APPENDIX F

HOUSE PLANT GROWING CONDITIONS

—96—

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II x

LIST OF REFERENCES

Alabama State Department of Education. Ornamental Horticulturefor Vocational Agriculture in Alabama. Agri—BusinessEducation Series.

Ball Red Book. Geo. J. Ball Inc. Staff. 1965.

Cornell Recommendations for Commercial Floriculture Crops.Part I: Cultural Practices and Production Programs.Part II: Disease, Pest, and Weed Control. 1974. Bulletins.

Ecke. The Poinsettia Manual. 1971. Paul Ecke Co.

Glockner. Mum Manual. 1971—72.

Nelson, Kennard S. Flower and Plant Production in the Greenhouse. 2nd Edition, Interstate Printers and Publishers,1967.

Pennsylvania State University. Greenhouse Crop Production.Teacher Education Series. Vol. 10 No. 3t.

Shanka, J.B. The Maryland Florist, #152, Mar—Apr., ‘69,“Poinsettias; Greenhouse Culture”.

—105—

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