zingerman's newsletter # 255 july-august 2016

15
ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016 - 1 As the Georgia weather began to turn crisp and cool one December just before the Civil War, Cordelia Thomas felt excitement in the air. On cool evenings as she lay awake on the cramped cabin floor, sounds echoing out of the piney woods and across the rice bogs foretold what was to come. Dogs barked and bayed, men shouted and whooped, pots and bells clanged, and hogs squealed. Killing time was approaching and the men and boys from the plantation where she and her family were held in bondage went out to round up the hogs that had been foraging unfettered through the upland woods and down into the swamps since they were last rounded up in early summer so the shoats could be marked with the plantation’s distinctive ear marks. Now hogs were cornered by the dogs and men, and those with the right cut marks on their ears were brought back to pens on the farm. On big plantations in the Lowcountry, killing time was serious work, just like everything else in these forced labor camps. Hundreds of hogs had to be slaughtered and butchered to provide the 20,000 or 30,000 pounds of pork it might take to sustain the enslaved workers toiling all year to produce rice and wealth for the few, incredibly rich, white families of the region. Mostly hogs were used as a way to extract resources from the surrounding wilderness without a great deal of management. The “piney woods” hogs of the region (which most closely resembled the rare Ossabaw Island breed of hogs) were left to fend for themselves and then, as depicted in the film Old Yeller, with the help of good dogs hunted down and subdued either for marking or slaughter. As this process could take weeks, it added to the overall anticipation for killing time. Thomas looked forward to killing time all year. Living in Athens, Georgia when she was interviewed by the Federal Writers Project at age 80, she remembered: “Children was happy when hog killing time come. Us wasn’t allowed to help none, except to fetch in the wood to keep the pot boiling where the lard was cooking.” She remembered ren- dering the lard in big washpots set on rocks over a fire, and she didn’t mind at all being tasked with gathering the wood for that fire “because when them cracklings got done they let us have all us could eat.” “Just let me tell you, missy,” she said to her New Deal interviewer, “you ain’t never had nothing good less you have ate a warm skin crackling with a little salt.” Thomas also relates that the rare treat of cracklings was so enticing that all the chil- dren crowded around the rendering pot. Despite warnings from the planters and elders in the slave community, she fell into the fire after she was pushed by another child. Thomas, who said she had to keep her burnt arm and hand in a sling for a long time after that, remembered the planter “laying down the law” after that as he threatened what he would do if the slave children, his valuable property, crowded around the lard pot again. This is the essence of many of the stories of slavery that we use as evidence in research. Enslaved African Americans found some joy in small things we can relate to, like crack- lings at butchering time. They also faced the dangers everyone faced on farms in the 19th century when accidents with fires were only slightly less deadly than childbirth and disease, but those dangers were elevated because of everything that went along with the nature of plantations as crowded work camps. And, in the end, human concerns for health, happiness, and safety were absent, as profit and labor reigned supreme. One of the things we consider and study over and over at the Smithsonian and in the museum field in general is the relationship between history and memory. As historian David Blight wrote, “History is what trained historians do, a reasoned reconstruction of the past rooted in research; it tends to be critical and skeptical of human motive and action, and therefore more secular than what people commonly call memory. History can be read by or belong to everyone; it is more relative, contingent on place, chronology, and scale. If history is shared and secular, memory is often treated as a sacred set of absolute meanings and stories, possessed as the heritage of identity of a community. Memory is often owned; history is interpreted. Memory is passed down through generations; history is revised. Memory often coalesces in objects, sites, and monuments; history seeks to understand contexts in all their complexity. History asserts the authority of academic training and canons of evidence; memory carries the often more immediate authority of community membership and experience.” As historians, we study and research the past and tell complex stories with long, com- plicated answers to questions, but in the public sphere, whether at a museum or in a film, TV show or popular magazine article, we expect simple, direct answers that reflect myths we can use to understand the past and present. When I say “myths” I don’t neces- sarily mean stories that are untrue either – just history that is mythic or held in com- mon. There are, of course, history myths like George Washington and the cherry tree or the American “birth myth” of the Pilgrims, which are either partially or totally untrue. But there are history myths we share where everyone knows the story and our under- standing of it matches history pretty well – when I worked at Henry Ford Museum and we acquired the Rosa Parks bus we saw a good example of this. Over the 30 years I have been involved in public history, a subject that has acutely dem- onstrated that history and memory can be at odds is the subject of slavery. This is true for many reasons. First, there can be problems with evidence – most written records are from the point of view of the slaveholder and the oral histories of people who experienced slavery like Cordelia Thomas can be tricky sources. More problematic is the fact that the interpretation of slavery’s history has always been associated with power. In the same way as the institution of slavery was imbued with issues of power, our memory of it is as well. I came head to head with these issues when we began to explore the history of slavery in Lowcountry Georgia at Henry Ford Museum in the early 1990s. We restored and rein- terpreted two brick houses that housed enslaved families on the Hermitage Plantation from Chatham County, Georgia, just outside Savannah and in the “kingdom of rice.” As we began to outline how we would present one story of slavery, we ran squarely into what Blight called “sacred sets of absolute meanings.” Whether it was our decision to call the buildings “houses” rather than “quarters” or “cabins,” or to concentrate on fam- ily life and culture rather than work and oppression, it involved power and memory and sometimes ran contrary to what the public wanted from an exhibit. And what many people wanted soon became clear when I took on the heavy responsibility of training the first group of staff to work in the slave houses and present and discuss this trau- matic history to visitors. Many visitors wanted short, simple answers to questions they had that confirmed their memories. “Slaves weren’t allowed to read and write, right?” “Slavery was only in the South, wasn’t it?” Or quite often, “These buildings are pretty nice. I’d like to have a cabin like this up north. It couldn’t have been that bad, could it?” This was certainly the case when we discussed food. It didn’t take long in discussing food on a Lowcountry rice plantation for me to encounter the public’s mythic under- standing of the origins of “soul food.” The master took the best parts of the pig, the story goes, and the slaves were left with pig’s feet and chitlins. In some ways this story per- fectly fit some of the themes we wanted to present – enslaved African Americans were oppressed, but undefeated. They took what they had and made due, creating a culture and keeping their families together against great odds. But as with so much of the story of life on a rice plantation, the particular details of this unique region were not commonly known and did not fit our common understanding. Rice plantations were distinctive in a number of ways. First off, they were rare. The way the famous Carolina Gold rice (which has been brought back to life and dinner tables by Anson Mills) was grown in the 19th century required tidal action to move massive amounts of water in and out of rice fields. Rice, however, can only take so much salt, so the fields can’t be too close to the ocean that the water is too saline, nor can they be too far away that it doesn’t move with the tides. That meant rice could be grown only in a narrow strip of land along southern North Carolina, coastal South Carolina, Coastal Georgia, and a bit of northern Florida. Historian William Dusinberre estimates that in the late 1850s, “Virtually the whole low-country rice crop was produced on about 320 plantations, owned by 250 families.” Secondly, rice plantations were big. Despite what we see in everything from Gone with the Wind to this summer’s remake of Roots, the typical experience of slavery was living on a small farm with a few enslaved workers. About 1 percent of slaveholders in the South owned more than 50 slaves, but it was typi- cal of rice planters to hold 100 or 200 people in bondage, sometimes more. At the start of the Civil War, 35 families owned more than 500 enslaved African Americans and 21 of those were rice planters. As I began to contemplate peculiarities of rice plantations like these and cross refer- ence that with our commonly held myths of slavery, I began to see conflicts. This was especially so with “the master took the hams and chops and the slaves ate the chitlins” story. It was commonly held across the rice growing region that the ration of pork for enslaved people was 3 pounds a week per person. On plantation like the Hermitage enslaving more than 200 people, that amounts to slaughtering more than 200 hogs pro- ducing some 30,000 lbs of pork. It doesn’t stand to reason that the white planter family would eat all the “high on the hog” parts, because there would just be too much (although some plantations did send hams and bacon to cities like Savannah or Charleston for sale). Furthermore, due to the malaria and general pestilence and oppressive heat of the lowcountry in the 19th century, white families generally left the plantation for the half of the year they called “the sickly season,” leaving only the enslaved and a few overseers there to work the rice. Of Bacon And Bondage: Examining the food of enslaved African Americans in the low country story continues on p. 5 Guest-author,-Christopher-Wilson,-Director-of-the-African-America-History-Program-at-the-Smithsonian's-National-Museum-of-American-History,-- and-featured-speaker-at-Zingerman's-Camp-Bacon,-offers-the-following-excerpt-from-his-upcoming-publication.

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Introducing Zingerman's Coffee Company Cold Brew CoffeeA letter to Zingerman's AlumniThe Belief Cycle: A Sneak Peak at Ari's Newest BookInterview with Tom Root of Maker Works

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Page 1: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­1

As the Georgia weather began to turn crisp and cool one December just before the Civil War, Cordelia Thomas felt excitement in the air. On cool evenings as she lay awake on the cramped cabin floor, sounds echoing out of the piney woods and across the rice bogs foretold what was to come. Dogs barked and bayed, men shouted and whooped, pots and bells clanged, and hogs squealed. Killing time was approaching and the men and boys from the plantation where she and her family were held in bondage went out to round up the hogs that had been foraging unfettered through the upland woods and down into the swamps since they were last rounded up in early summer so the shoats could be marked with the plantation’s distinctive ear marks. Now hogs were cornered by the dogs and men, and those with the right cut marks on their ears were brought back to pens on the farm.

On big plantations in the Lowcountry, killing time was serious work, just like everything else in these forced labor camps. Hundreds of hogs had to be slaughtered and butchered to provide the 20,000 or 30,000 pounds of pork it might take to sustain the enslaved workers toiling all year to produce rice and wealth for the few, incredibly rich, white families of the region. Mostly hogs were used as a way to extract resources from the surrounding wilderness without a great deal of management. The “piney woods” hogs of the region (which most closely resembled the rare Ossabaw Island breed of hogs) were left to fend for themselves and then, as depicted in the film Old Yeller, with the help of good dogs hunted down and subdued either for marking or slaughter. As this process could take weeks, it added to the overall anticipation for killing time.

Thomas looked forward to killing time all year. Living in Athens, Georgia when she was interviewed by the Federal Writers Project at age 80, she remembered: “Children was happy when hog killing time come. Us wasn’t allowed to help none, except to fetch in the wood to keep the pot boiling where the lard was cooking.” She remembered ren-dering the lard in big washpots set on rocks over a fire, and she didn’t mind at all being tasked with gathering the wood for that fire “because when them cracklings got done they let us have all us could eat.” “Just let me tell you, missy,” she said to her New Deal interviewer, “you ain’t never had nothing good less you have ate a warm skin crackling with a little salt.”

Thomas also relates that the rare treat of cracklings was so enticing that all the chil-dren crowded around the rendering pot. Despite warnings from the planters and elders in the slave community, she fell into the fire after she was pushed by another child. Thomas, who said she had to keep her burnt arm and hand in a sling for a long time after that, remembered the planter “laying down the law” after that as he threatened what he would do if the slave children, his valuable property, crowded around the lard pot again.

This is the essence of many of the stories of slavery that we use as evidence in research. Enslaved African Americans found some joy in small things we can relate to, like crack-lings at butchering time. They also faced the dangers everyone faced on farms in the 19th century when accidents with fires were only slightly less deadly than childbirth and disease, but those dangers were elevated because of everything that went along with the nature of plantations as crowded work camps. And, in the end, human concerns for health, happiness, and safety were absent, as profit and labor reigned supreme.

One of the things we consider and study over and over at the Smithsonian and in the museum field in general is the relationship between history and memory.

As historian David Blight wrote, “History is what trained historians do, a reasoned reconstruction of the past rooted in research; it tends to be critical and skeptical of human motive and action, and therefore more secular than what people commonly call memory. History can be read by or belong to everyone; it is more relative, contingent on place, chronology, and scale. If history is shared and secular, memory is often treated as a sacred set of absolute meanings and stories, possessed as the heritage of identity of a community. Memory is often owned; history is interpreted. Memory is passed down through generations; history is revised. Memory often coalesces in objects, sites, and monuments; history seeks to understand contexts in all their complexity. History asserts the authority of academic training and canons of evidence; memory carries the often more immediate authority of community membership and experience.”

As historians, we study and research the past and tell complex stories with long, com-plicated answers to questions, but in the public sphere, whether at a museum or in a film, TV show or popular magazine article, we expect simple, direct answers that reflect myths we can use to understand the past and present. When I say “myths” I don’t neces-sarily mean stories that are untrue either – just history that is mythic or held in com-mon. There are, of course, history myths like George Washington and the cherry tree or the American “birth myth” of the Pilgrims, which are either partially or totally untrue. But there are history myths we share where everyone knows the story and our under-standing of it matches history pretty well – when I worked at Henry Ford Museum and we acquired the Rosa Parks bus we saw a good example of this.

Over the 30 years I have been involved in public history, a subject that has acutely dem-onstrated that history and memory can be at odds is the subject of slavery. This is true for many reasons. First, there can be problems with evidence – most written records are from the point of view of the slaveholder and the oral histories of people

who experienced slavery like Cordelia Thomas can be tricky sources. More problematic is the fact that the interpretation of slavery’s history has always been associated with power. In the same way as the institution of slavery was imbued with issues of power, our memory of it is as well.

I came head to head with these issues when we began to explore the history of slavery in Lowcountry Georgia at Henry Ford Museum in the early 1990s. We restored and rein-terpreted two brick houses that housed enslaved families on the Hermitage Plantation from Chatham County, Georgia, just outside Savannah and in the “kingdom of rice.” As we began to outline how we would present one story of slavery, we ran squarely into what Blight called “sacred sets of absolute meanings.” Whether it was our decision to call the buildings “houses” rather than “quarters” or “cabins,” or to concentrate on fam-ily life and culture rather than work and oppression, it involved power and memory and sometimes ran contrary to what the public wanted from an exhibit. And what many people wanted soon became clear when I took on the heavy responsibility of training the first group of staff to work in the slave houses and present and discuss this trau-matic history to visitors. Many visitors wanted short, simple answers to questions they had that confirmed their memories. “Slaves weren’t allowed to read and write, right?” “Slavery was only in the South, wasn’t it?” Or quite often, “These buildings are pretty nice. I’d like to have a cabin like this up north. It couldn’t have been that bad, could it?”

This was certainly the case when we discussed food. It didn’t take long in discussing food on a Lowcountry rice plantation for me to encounter the public’s mythic under-standing of the origins of “soul food.” The master took the best parts of the pig, the story goes, and the slaves were left with pig’s feet and chitlins. In some ways this story per-fectly fit some of the themes we wanted to present – enslaved African Americans were oppressed, but undefeated. They took what they had and made due, creating a culture and keeping their families together against great odds.

But as with so much of the story of life on a rice plantation, the particular details of this unique region were not commonly known and did not fit our common understanding. Rice plantations were distinctive in a number of ways. First off, they were rare. The way the famous Carolina Gold rice (which has been brought back to life and dinner tables by Anson Mills) was grown in the 19th century required tidal action to move massive amounts of water in and out of rice fields. Rice, however, can only take so much salt, so the fields can’t be too close to the ocean that the water is too saline, nor can they be too far away that it doesn’t move with the tides. That meant rice could be grown only in a narrow strip of land along southern North Carolina, coastal South Carolina, Coastal Georgia, and a bit of northern Florida. Historian William Dusinberre estimates that in the late 1850s, “Virtually the whole low-country rice crop was produced on about 320 plantations, owned by 250 families.” Secondly, rice plantations were big. Despite what we see in everything from Gone with the Wind to this summer’s remake of Roots, the typical experience of slavery was living on a small farm with a few enslaved workers. About 1 percent of slaveholders in the South owned more than 50 slaves, but it was typi-cal of rice planters to hold 100 or 200 people in bondage, sometimes more. At the start of the Civil War, 35 families owned more than 500 enslaved African Americans and 21 of those were rice planters.

As I began to contemplate peculiarities of rice plantations like these and cross refer-ence that with our commonly held myths of slavery, I began to see conflicts. This was especially so with “the master took the hams and chops and the slaves ate the chitlins” story. It was commonly held across the rice growing region that the ration of pork for enslaved people was 3 pounds a week per person. On plantation like the Hermitage enslaving more than 200 people, that amounts to slaughtering more than 200 hogs pro-ducing some 30,000 lbs of pork. It doesn’t stand to reason that the white planter family would eat all the “high on the hog” parts, because there would just be too much (although some plantations did send hams and bacon to cities like Savannah or Charleston for sale). Furthermore, due to the malaria and general pestilence and oppressive heat of the lowcountry in the 19th century, white families generally left the plantation for the half of the year they called “the sickly season,” leaving only the enslaved and a few overseers there to work the rice.

Of Bacon And Bondage:: Examining the food of enslaved African Americans in the low country

story continues on p. 5

Guest­author,­Christopher­Wilson,­Director­of­the­African­America­History­Program­at­the­Smithsonian's­National­Museum­of­American­History,­­and­featured­speaker­at­Zingerman's­Camp­Bacon,­offers­the­following­excerpt­from­his­upcoming­publication.

Page 2: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­2

Catering & Venues

CORNMAN FARMS IN DEXTERCornman Farms is an award-winning event space, wedding venue, and working farm in Dexter, Michigan. We pride ourselves on our level of service, quality of staff, impec-cably maintained buildings and grounds, and our attention to detail. This 42 acre farm and its venues were restored with the most discerning guests in mind. We offer a beau-tiful exhibition kitchen, a chef’s garden, bride and bridegroom suites, a classic farm-house, four-seasons barn, and a stunning tent pavilion. From the moment you decide on Cornman Farms for your event, you can rest assured that you will be looked after by our owner and lauded chef Kieron Hales and our talented and caring staff members.

GREYLINEAnn Arbor’s downtown venuefor private events! The space is operated exclusively by Zingerman’s Catering and Events. Greyline’s entrance is located at 100 N. Ashley, under the historic Ann Arbor bus depot sign and connected to the Marriott Residence Inn. The interior highlights aspects of the Art Deco history of the bus depot with a modern flair. Floor to ceiling windows, a beautifully designed built-in bar and full catering kitchen provide guests with an in-town experience highlighting Zingerman’s great service and exceptional food. It is the perfect space for groups: 40 to 150 guests for seated receptions and up to 200 guests for strolling events.

ZINGERMAN'S ROADHOUSEWe love to host any personal or professional milestone that you’d like to mark with a celebration: weddings, graduations, birthday parties, business meetings, rehearsals, showers, or cocktail receptions.

We can cater breakfast, lunch, or dinner events ranging from cool and casual, to tradi-tional and formal. We provide full-flavored all-American food and enthusiastic, engag-ing service for both in-house parties and off-site events.

Groups often prefer to reserve the Common Room (up to 80) and the outdoor covered Patio (up to 100) in order to ensure privacy. In the summer season, we also have a por-tion of the covered patio that seats up to 30 nicely if your party is a bit smaller, with sliding doors for a private party.

VENUES CATERING

Planning­a­corporate­event­that­will­show­guests­the­beauty­of­Ann­Arbor?

Z I N G E R M A N ’ S E V E N T S P A C E

734.663.3400zingermansgreyline.com100 N Ashley St, Ann Arbor

ZINGERMAN’S HAS YOU COVERED WITH GREAT CHOICES IN VENUES AND CATERING!

Planning­a­tailgate? Dreaming­of­a­romantic,­farmhouse­wedding?

ON THE ROAD BY THE ROADHOUSELed by James Beard award-winning Chef Alex Young, the Roadhouse focuses on full-flavored and traditionally-made foods using local produce from Cornman Farms and other local farms in the area. We have a deep love for Southern-style comfort foods, such as fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, and pit-smoked barbecue meats. We also love customizing menus around your favorite cuisine, region, season or theme. Whether planning a traditional Indian meal, a Spanish tapas-style evening or a New England clambake, we can work with our chefs to create the menu that best fits what you are looking for. The sky really is the limit! When we talk about your dream menu, don’t hesitate to tell us exactly what you are looking for.

ZINGERMAN'S DELIWhether your event is a tailgate, an intimate gathering or you are looking to feed a thousand, we want you to feel that choosing us to cater was the best decision you made. Since we opened our doors in 1982 we have been bringing the Zingerman’s expe-rience to full-flavored food lovers all over Michigan and the Midwest, reaching as far as Chicago, Cleveland, and Indiana. We source ingredients from around the world. Whether it is the exotic flavors of Epices de Cru spices (gathered by our friends, Ethne and Philippe de Vienne of Montreal) or the Marino family’s golden orange polenta from the Piedmont, we only offer what is exceptional. Locally, we have long standing rela-tionships with Michigan farmers and use local produce whenever possible. We also have the luxury of turning to Zingerman’s Bakehouse and Creamery in addition to hav-ing the Deli’s world renowned meats and cheeses with which to woo your guests.

We want your event to be fun, flavorful and engaging! Our catering service team is ready to give your guests the attentive service that has made ZIngerman’s famous.

734.619.8100cornmanfarms.com8540 Island Lake Rd., Dexter

734.663.3663zingermansroadhouse.com2501 Jackson Rd., Ann Arbor

734.663.3663zingermansroadhouse.com2501 Jackson Rd., Ann Arbor

734.663.3400zingermansdeli.com422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor

Page 3: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­3

The recipe for Cream-Nut peanut butter from Koeze (rhymes with Susie) in Grand Rapids, Michigan hasn’t changed since Albertus Koeze started making it in 1925. The equipment is old, too, from the middle of the last century. Even a lot of the staff have been there for decades. As Martin Andree, vice-president of Koeze puts it, “We’re not new. We’re not improved. We’re making the same product we’ve made all along.”

Koeze peanut butter contains just two ingredients: roasted peanuts and salt.Since Koeze doesn’t add any sugar (which hides off flavors in the peanuts), they’re choosy about the peanuts they use. There are four basic kinds of peanuts: runner, Spanish, Valencia, and Virginia. At Koeze, they’ve been using a high grade of Virginia peanuts since day one. They’re large, very flavorful, and typically rather expensive so they don’t end up in peanut butter too often. Instead, most Virginia peanuts are roasted and sold for snacking (like our Virginia Diner Peanuts).

It wasn’t always this way. Until the 1970s, peanut butter was usually made from a mix of Spanish and Virginia peanuts. But then a new type of runner peanut called the Florunner was introduced, and in a few short years it nearly monopolized the peanut butter market. Florunners were popular with commercial peanut butter makers because they’re very high yielding (read: inexpensive). However, they don’t taste that great. They lack the rich flavor of Virginia peanuts. Today Florunners have fallen out of favor (as a monocrop they quickly became very susceptible to disease) but related runner peanuts are still used to make 99% of commercial peanut butter. To mask the lackluster fla-vor of the nut, peanut butter makers add a bunch of sugar. This isn’t the only place an added-sugar trick shows up in our food; it’s the same thing with 100% cacao baking chocolate, which usually tastes terrible because it’s typically made with very poor quality cacao. The baker is expected to add a lot of sugar to the crummy chocolate so that the brownies won’t taste horrible.

Koeze peanut butter is made using vintage machines that have been around for generations.The peanut roaster is an old coffee roaster from the 1940s. Inside the roaster, 300-pound batches of peanuts are turned slowly over a flame, roasting gently until they reach a rich golden-brown color. That’s car-amelization—the same thing that makes a crusty end of bread or a seared steak so delicious. It imparts a sweet, roasty flavor to the nuts. It also makes the production space smell incredible, like fresh peanut butter cookies that have just come out of the oven.

Using the old equipment isn’t more efficient; compared to most indus-trial peanut butter production, which employs very hot ovens and conveyor belts to quickly roast thousands of peanuts every hour, the production at Koeze is fairly slow. But while faster produc-tion is less expensive, the savings come at the expense of flavor. That fast, hot, conveyor belt roast-ing doesn’t give the peanuts much of a chance to develop color—or flavor. A lot of commercial pea-nut butters add molasses (more sugar!) to darken the color and mask the product’s shortcomings.

The roaster isn’t the only old piece of equipment; essentially all of the machinery is old enough that if Albertus Koeze were to walk into the production area today he’d know how to use it. How do they maintain these antiques? “We make our own parts. And we have a really good mechanic,” Martin told me. “But they were made to last. I have a lot more trouble with the new labeling machine than with any of the old ones.”

Making a batch of peanut butter at Koeze takes three people and zero computers.One of the most important jobs for these three people is to taste. In spite of years of experience making peanut butter, they still taste every batch. They’re checking to make sure it has the rich, roasted peanut flavor and velvety—but still slightly chunky, with small bits of peanuts intentionally left in, even in the creamy peanut butter—texture. They make peanut butter frequently enough that it’s usually not more than a few weeks old before it’s shipped out.

Since peanut oil is more likely to separate from the butter the longer it sits around, fresher peanut butter is more likely to be homogenous. Most commercial peanut butters whip in hydrogenated vegetable oils to keep the peanut oil from separating, but in addition to adding trans fats they can also give the peanut butter a gummy texture. Since Koeze doesn’t have those oils added, it may separate over time. Store it in the fridge to reduce that separation anxiety, and as a bonus, seeing it every time you open the fridge will help you remember you’re never more than a few minutes away from the best PB&J you can imagine.

Val­Neff-Rasmussen

KOEZE CREAM NUT PEANUT BUTTER ­­­­By­Val­Neff-Rasmussen

Our­once-a-year­summer­sale­is­on­now,­featuring­stock-up­deals­on­all­our­tasty­favorites.­Choose­from­Koeze's­Cream-Nut­peanut­butter,­perennial­best-seller­tuna­and­other­tinned­

fishes,­sauces,­jams,­nuts,­pastas,­and­lots­of­other­deeply­discounted­deliciousness.­­

Our 1837 Red Barn holds years of beautiful memories under its lovingly restored, time-weathered beams. The organic beauty of our Midwestern setting serves as the idyllic backdrop in every season, ensuring a memorable day for all our guests.

Our Red Barn Weddings are designed for up to 100 guests and includes:

Relax as we arrange all key components of your wedding with as little as two weeks notice, for between 5 and 50 guests.

- Exclusive Access to Cornman Farms from 10:00 am - Midnight

- The Classic Cornman Farms Bar Menu

- A beautiful and delicious wedding cake by Zingerman’s Bakehouse

- Zingerman's Coffee, Rishi Tea, Seasonally Infused Waters and Soda

- Your choice of seasonal beverage station

- All essential rental items for your wedding day

- Valet Parking

- A three-course gourmet meal prepared by Zingerman’s Chef Kieron Hales

- A sparkling wine toast

- A beautiful and delicious wedding cake by Zingerman’s Bakehouse

- Choice of picturesque location on the venue property for the ceremony

- Officiant

- Photographer

- Bouquet and boutonniere (one of each, or two of either!)

- Zingerman’s Coffee & Rishi Tea Bar

Cornman Farms is an award winning event and wedding venue in Dexter, Michigan. We pride ourselves on our level of service, quality of staff, impeccably maintained venues and grounds and our attention to detail is second to none. From the moment you decide on Cornman Farms for your wedding, you can rest assured that you and your families will be looked after by our talented and caring staff members. We host both large and small weddings and celebrations we invite you and your families out for a private tour!

For­more­information­visit­www.cornmanfarms.comemail:­[email protected]:­734-619-8100

Cornman­Farms­Red­Barn­Weddings

Intimate Wedding Package

Pick up a jar at: Zingerman's

Roadhouse, Deli, Mail Order

and Creamery

thefeed.zingermans.com

Prices range from $13,000 to $21,000

Prices range from $6,500 to $12,900

Sale prices good through through July 31 at zingermans.com, by phone at 888.636.8162 and in person atZingerman's Deli

Page 4: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­4

JULY ORTIZ BONITO DEL NORTE TUNA BY THE CASE Now­$48­was $72

Everyone's favorite tuna is back, and it's bigger than ever! Fresh, meaty and delicious, this line-caught classic from the Ortiz Family in Spain is on sale in 12-tin cases. Stop by for a taste and see why everyone will be stocking up on what's sure to become the only tinned tuna you'll ever eat again!

AUGUST RIZZOLI ANCHOVIESNow­$8­was $11.99

Whether you get them packed in extra virgin olive oil or in a 'salsa piccante', the recipe for which is known only by the first born of the Rizzoli family, these anchovies will enhance your culinary life in ways you've never imagined. Cook them down with butter and herbs to drizzle over pasta, or lay them across slices of freshly baked bread rubbed with raw garlic.

JULY OAXACA CHILESNow­$15/tin­was $11.25/tin

These chiles come from way up in the Sierra Mixe, high into the mountains. The remote location and rela-tively limited production has meant that these special chiles are little known out-side their region. They're pre-pared pretty much as they've been for thousands of years. The result is big, bold and smoky flavor. Modest in heat, but show-stoppingly superb!

AUGUSTDUKKHA SPICENow­$8.25/tin­was $11/tin

Quite simply, the star o the Egyptian world. Delicious, versatile, sensual, zippy, zingy- a xylophone of flavors all in one little tin! The Épice de Cru version is made with sesame seed, coriander seed, cumin, termeric, Quebec thyme, Spanish paprika and Indian black pepper. To enjoy dukkha à la Egyptians, grind in some nuts with the blend, making a dip to be eaten with bread and olive oil–it’s a must at cocktail time.

JULY GRANDPA K'S FOWL-MOUTHED RANCH HAND $14.99

A first-rate quartet of bright, summertime flavors favored by even the most color-ful, hard working sandwich cooks! Grilled chicken breast pairs with house made ranch dressing, garlicky hummus, cucumbers, and exemplary house made, quinoa & chick-pea tabbouleh salad, all on rustic Italian bread.

Chicken­breast,­ranch­dress-ing,­hummus,­&­housemade­"chicks­and­tabbouleh"­salad,­on­rustic­Italian­bread.

AUGUSTTHE MORGAMATRON

$14.99

Transforming the hum-drum ham and cheese pairing of days gone by into a bold, yet refreshing, sandwich expe-rience. Swiss and scallion cream cheese envelop rose-mary ham, and the crunchy sweet duo of sunflower sprouts on ultra-soft challah bread.

Rosemary­ham,­scallion­and­swiss­cheese,­sunflower­sprouts­and­tomatoes­on­challah.

JULYBBQ PICNIC ON THE PATIO$14.99

Celebrate the height of summer with this classic backyard picnic spread. Creamy caraway coleslaw, mustardy old fashioned potato salad, smoky baked beans and your choice of one of our hand pulled, slow cooked BBQ special-ties: beef brisket or Amish chicken slathered in a sweet and tangy red sauce, or zesty Cuban-style pork.

AUGUSTNESTOR’S PLATO CUBANO$13.99Rapprochement is in the air with our Caribbean neighbor so we decided to celebrate with a plateful of Cuban inspired offer-ings. Piquant pulled pork combines with saffron rice, tostones (fried plantains) and saucy black beans to create a plate steeped in revolutionary vigor. Taste the détente!

Zingerman's barbeque chicken or beef with challah buns, Old Fashioned Potato Salad, Baked beans with Applewood smoked bacon, Watermelon, mint and feta salad, Zingerman's Bakehouse Cheery Cherry Pie, Freshly squeezed lemonade or iced tea.

Z I N G E R M A N ’ S E V E N T S P A C E

PicnicPackage

SummerSummerPicnicPackageSummer is here!Heading to the U.P.?

Picnic at the Arb?Call­Zingerman's­Catering­and­we'll­set­you­up­with­the­perfect­summer­food.

FREE DELIVERY IN JULY!

for all catering orders of $150 or more

(applies to orders delivered within Ann Arbor)

$22 a person

We are getting ready to open our newest event space, Greyline! Greyline is operated exclu-

sively by Zingerman’s Catering and Events and available for social events, weddings, meet-ings and training sessions. Located at 100 N.

Ashley (the same building as the downtown Ann Arbor Marriott Residence Inn), it’s the per-

fect venue to host your next event, whether it’s a reception, corporate event or family party. We are creating a gorgeous downtown venue that’s ideal for 40-200 guests and includes a dining area, built-in bar, dance floor, and full working kitchen to accommodate your vision.

Located in the heart of downtown, we hope to be the local venue for Ann Arbor natives as well as out of town guests. Reminiscent of the days when it was the Ann Arbor bus depot, much of the interior design highlights aspects of the Art Deco style while adding a modern touch of our own. To get a glimpse of what it could look like to host your event with us, visit our website for artistic renderings of the space.

When you have an event at Greyline, you can rest assured that you’re in good hands. Being an exclusive caterer in the space allows us the flexibility and attention to detail that you deserve. All events are serviced by our professional and knowl-edgeable staff and the facility fee includes everything you need for a seamless event such as linens, dishware, flatware, tables, and chairs. Having a corporate training event? We’re happy to help coordinate any AV equipment and set the room for break-out sessions. Dreaming of the perfect wedding? We work with trusted vendors all over town so that everything from the flo-ral arrangements to the DJ to the custom favors fit your vision. Hosting a birthday party or bar/bat mitzvah? Our staff can help you create a fantastic menu and custom bar package to make sure everyone has a memorable time.

Being in the same building as the Marriott Residence Inn makes renting hotel rooms a breeze and we’re happy to put you in contact with the Marriott staff or set up valet service. Rental rates for Greyline vary depend-ing on the day of the week, and our planners are happy to speak with you about putting together a custom proposal that includes everything you need for a suc-cessful event. Whether you want to dance the night away with the city lights sparkling through the windows or looking for a place to hold meetings that will give your guests the perfect taste of Ann Arbor, we would love for you to join us at Greyline.

Excited about booking Greyline? We are now accepting event res-ervations for dates after August 1st 2016 and any of our friendly sales and events staff would be happy to speak with you. Give us a call at 734-663-3400 to begin planning an event that will have your guests talking for years!

Need it to travel? Provide the cooler and we'll provide free ice!

100 N ASHLEY ST., ANN ARBOR • 734.663-3400 •ZINGERMANSGREYLINE.COM

OPENING JULY 21ST!

GRAND OPENING PARTY August­3rd,­4:30­-­7PM­Free­To­Attend

Get a chance to see us in action, taste a smorgas-bord of delicious fare, enter to win a contest and experience the space that could host the event of your dreams!

Stay tuned to our website for more events to come.

Available­as­the­dinner­plate­of­the­month­­starting­at­11am.

Page 5: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­5

continued from pg. 1

Of Bacon And BondageAt least in the Lowcountry rice plantations, the conventional view of what slaves ate doesn’t stand up to evidence. It also doesn’t stand up to the sci-ence and traditional methods of food preservation. Offal, like chitlins, and the cracklings Cordelia Thomas loved, were only available right at killing time and couldn’t be preserved throughout the year. What does ring true about the mythic interpretation of soul food is that it was one of the only times of the year when enslaved people could experience the joy of excess. In the reminiscences of the men and women collected by the WPA slave narrative project, hog killing time arises over and over as a joyous memory. It’s likely no coincidence that butchering is also remembered so fondly given it took place near Christmas, a time of time off work in the rice fields, but it’s prob-ably more due to the feast that occurred. Certainly killing, butchering, and curing scores of hogs was a great deal of work for the whole slave community, but it also created a festive atmosphere where men, women, and children normally driven hard to produce wealth for the rice planters could eat to their heart’s content. Where the conventional “soul food” myth does ring true on Lowcountry plantations is that enslaved people were generally allowed to prepare for themselves all the excess pork that couldn’t be preserved. In other words, the enslaved community was “given” all the pork parts that the “master didn’t want,” but that wasn’t necessarily all they were allowed to eat.

Despite the fact that in the Lowcountry enslaved African Americans were not solely eating the leftover, unwanted parts of the pig, that doesn’t mean they were living “high on the hog.” There is disagreement among scholars on the level of nutrition for bondsmen and women throughout the south, as well as in the rice growing region. Even the testimony of former slaves varies, with some saying they always had plenty to eat and others recounting malnourish-ment and want.

In public history of slavery, there is always a conflict in how the story is pre-sented – we often choose between presenting the story as one of oppression vs. resistance, subjugation vs. survival, property vs. humanity. Because the legacy of slavery is still so contested, if one shows a story of survival, audi-ences may consider the oppression given short shrift. If, on the other hand, we focus on brutalization, we run the risk of suggesting our enslaved were defeated by the experience of slavery.

This conflict is certainly at work in how we remember food on plantations. Missing from the common understanding of pork on the plantation though, is the skill of the enslaved butchers, cooks, and charcutiers. Shadrack Richards, born in 1846 in Pike County, Georgia, remembered more than 150 people working for over a week on butchering and curing, preserving the sides of bacon and shoulders and other cuts to keep on the plantation and taking time to create great hams for sale in Savannah. Another survivor of slavery Robert Shepherd remembered with pride just how good the hams and bacon were that his fellow butchers created despite the cruelty of slavery. “Nobody never had no better hams and other meat” than they cured, he recalled.

At a conference at the Smithsonian in May 2016, Harvard historian Walter Johnson said, “It is a commonplace in the historical literature that slavery 'dehumanized' enslaved people.” Johnson went on to admit there are “plenty of right-minded reasons for saying so. It is hard to square the idea of millions of people being bought and sold, of sexual violation and natal alienation, of forced labor and starvation with any sort of ”humane” behavior: these are the sorts of things that should never be done to a human being.” By suggest-ing that slavery, Johnson continued, “either relied upon or accomplished the 'dehumanization' of enslaved people, however, we are participating in a sort of ideological exchange that is no less baleful for being so familiar.”

Slaves and slaveowners were human. Slavery depended on human greed, lust, fear, hope, cruelty, and callousness. To remember it as an inhuman time posi-tions us incorrectly in a purer, more moral moment. “These are the things that human beings do to one another,” Johnson argued.

When I think of killing time on a plantation, like the one on which Cordelia Thomas lived 150 years ago, I think of people reveling in the taste of expertly prepared food they put their heart, soul, and artistry into. The taste of the cracklings around the rendering pot, or the anticipation of cowpea gravy with fat bacon during the steaming Georgia summer, was one way black fami-lies in the Lowcountry exercised control over their lives in the midst of the ruthlessness of the central moral event of our nation.

In case you missed it, Camp Bacon® wrapped its 7th Annual celebration of all things pork last week with five full days of bacon-filled fun, rais-ing over $10,000 for Southern Foodways Alliance and the local 4-H chap-ter of Washtenaw County! The brainchild of Zingerman’s co-founder Ari Weinzweig, the idea of Camp Bacon transitioned from fantasy to reality when the first Camp Bacon sold out in 2010. This year, we welcomed more than 2,300 pork lovers over five days who hailed from all over the globe, includ-ing folks from Iowa to our friends down under in Australia, with the largest lineup of events to date. Not only did we fill our stomachs but we also filled our minds learning about the stories behind the bacon from some of the most well-known pork producers, food experts, food his-torians and authors in the country. From the first Camp Bacon speaker series with author John U. Bacon to…a movie marathon showcasing incredible southern food producers...baking with bacon (yum!)...the Bacon Ball with author and pig expert Mark Essig...the first field trip and taste tour of Detroit...the Main Event featuring a fantastic speaker lineup at Cornman Farms and more bacon than you can dream of...and finally to the Bacon Street Fair wrapping things up with a nice warm bacon hug offering fun, food and games for the whole family.

You can keep alive the smells and sounds of Camp Bacon in your home or office by purchasing a limited edition (numbered and

signed by artist Ryan Stiner!) blacklight poster. While the bearded pig looks amazing under any light, the design really pops under a blacklight. Take home a piece of Ann Arbor history! Gets yours today at http://www.zingermansdeli.com/zingermans-art-for-sale/camp-bacon-blacklight-poster - a great way to continue supporting Southern Foodways Alliance and Washtenaw 4-H!

Dear­Friends,

More likely than not, it’s been a while since we’ve talked. Given that we don’t work together like we once did, we probably see each other a lot less frequently these days. Which is really the biggest reason that I’m excited about this letter and the project that goes with it. After a couple of years of conversation, we’re ready to officially launch our—hopefully your—Zingerman’s Alumni Group. We’re pretty jazzed about it, and we hope you will be, too.

What got us thinking about it? Over the years it’s become ever clearer that there’s a really wonderful community of ex ZCoB’ers out in the world. Hundreds—maybe thou-sands now—of folks who love good food, get good service, care deeply about community, and live the spirit of generosity every day. People who continue to stay connected to their Zingerman’s Experience. Some live in town and remain regular customers. Others have moved away but keep buying Mail Order. Many are regularly connecting with folks they worked with while they were here. Others still, have put ZCoB principles and reci-pes to work in jobs long after they left town. It’s what former ZMO and catering crew member Annie Kopicko once called “the meta-ZCoB.”

Pretty clearly most of those good folks share values—that’s why we all worked in the same organization for so long. Similarly , nearly every one of us could use a hand now and then. A connection for a new job; a recommendation for coffee, bread, or a restau-rant in a new town. Others still are looking for jobs and want to find a place to work that shares the ZCoB’s values and approaches. Others of you now run your own businesses or manage departments and are frequently hiring—and you’d love to find someone who already knows the 3 steps to great service, the 5 steps to handling a complaint, and how to write a vision.

So with all that in mind, we thought, why not create a construct in which we could honor all of those things? We couldn’t think of any good reason not to. Which is why the Zingerman’s Alumni Group was created.

What will the group do?

Well, we’re gonna be figuring that out in the years to come. Here’s some of what we’re already imagining:

THAT'S A WRAP!

SAVE THE DATE FOR NEXT YEAR’S CAMP BACON taking place May 31-June 4 and stay tuned for event details at www.ZingermansCampBacon.com

A LETTER TO ZINGERMAN'S ALUMNI

-­a­regular­presence­on­social­media

-­an­enews­that­helps­you­all­keep­up­with­us­and­with­each­other

-­regular­special­offers­of­products,­pricing,­etc.­for­Zing­alumni­to­help­keep­you­in­the­culinary­loop­and­eat-ing­really­well.

-­same­sort­of­thing­with­ZingTrain,­books,­pamphlets,­events,­etc.

-­some­way­for­Zing­alumni­to­let­oth-ers­know­what­they’re­looking­for­or­willing­to­help­with—shared­resources­within­the­community­can­only­be­a­good­thing!

Interested? We hope so!

The vision and compelling reasons for this project (you do remember Bottom Line Change don’t you?)) on our Facebook page (Zingerman's Alumni).

If you’d like to be part of this great project, please visit the Facebook page or email [email protected]

Page 6: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­6

ZINGERMAN’S NEWS: How­are­you­feeling­about­the­new­book­coming­out?­

ARI: Nervous. And kind of excited at the same time. Since this is like the seventh or eight book I’ve done I know the feeling all too well by now. Actually for me this is the hardest part of the process. The book is actually done so I can’t keep changing it and adjusting it, but I continue to learn and find things I’d like to have changed. Waiting and worrying is, I suppose, significantly harder for me than working! I try to just ignore the worry because it doesn’t help anything. I’ll be glad when we have the book in hand!

ZN:­­It’s­no­small­project!­­

ARI: No, definitely not small. But to be clear, any time I do a book, it’s really a credit to the whole organization. Because without everyone else here to make Zingerman’s what it is every day—to craft amazing food and give incredible service—there wouldn’t be much to write about, at least not much good! This is really a tribute to the 700 or so folks who work here now, and to the thousands of former Zingerman’s staffers. Hundreds of suppliers. And then there’s hundreds of thousands of great customers who give us the chance to do what we do every day. And also to all the authors, presenters and generally smart people who’ve helped me to learn all this stuff.

ZN:­­What­got­you­going­on­the­subject­of­beliefs?­

ARI: That’s a good question. It’s not something I’d really ever given much thought to. Obviously, we all have beliefs so it’s not like it was a shock to me that they existed. But I’d really never given the idea of beliefs any consideration of consequence. What changed was . . . like so many things, the connection of two things that happened to come to mind at the same time. First, I was frustrated with the way a project here had been going and I couldn’t figure out what was causing the problem. All the usual things we look at were aligned—vision, values, organizational commitment, ability, etc. And yet it just didn’t get any traction. At the same time, I happened to be reading Bob and Judith Wright’s book, Transformed! and in there I stumbled on their “self fulfilling belief cycle.” At which point it was suddenly clear to me that the issue with the work group was a lack of shared beliefs about the work at hand.

ZN: And­then?­

ARI: And then . . . I started to study. And study. And the more I studied, the more I learned, the more interesting the subject got. And the more I started to realize that there was this whole world that I hadn’t been looking at. My metaphor in the book is that our beliefs are like the root system of our world—although you generally can’t see them, everything that happens above ground is a func-tion of them. The stronger the beliefs the bigger and deeper the root system. I look at the culture as the soil. The richer the soil the better the plants that will come from them. Conversely even the best plants or seed varieties won’t do well in poor soil; the best people or most creative ideas won’t flourish in unhealthy organizational cultures. I just spoke at the Ballymaloe Litfest in Ireland and of the speakers was a very interesting sustainable farmer. He was talking about agriculture and he said, “Everyone’s looking above the surface. But all the important action is really below!” Which pretty much perfectly summed up this whole book for me. My only regret is that when I heard him say it the book was already on its way to print so I couldn’t add his quote and give him credit!

ZN: Can­you­say­more­about­the­cycle?­

ARI: Of course. Here’s some of what I wrote in the book:

It works like this. When we have a belief, it’s very likely that that belief will lead us to take some sort of associated action. For instance, let’s say we believe that our ideas aren’t really worth much and no one really cares about what we think. The action that follows might likely be that we rarely voice our views at work. That behavior will likely feed the belief in others that we have little to offer, or perhaps aren’t very committed to the company’s success. Which will, in turn, lead those co-workers to take action accordingly—they might not ask us for our views on important issues or include us in discussions. Which will then reinforce our original belief that others don’t value our views.

The cycle will surely continue onwards from there. Imagine what it will feel like after twenty or thirty years. We start to believe that the reality we’re experiencing is “who we are” rather than a result of how our beliefs have been acting steadily, if surreptitiously, on our reality. We know from studies of brain change and development that when we think in a certain way for a long period of time, the “routes” in our brain grow ever more deeply embedded. The deeper they get, the more we follow along the same path onto which our beliefs long ago led us. And on and on the cycle goes, each element reinforcing the existing beliefs of others in the cycle. As author Barry Schwartz says, “These effects can arise because sometimes when people act on the basis of ideology, they inadvertently arrange the very conditions that bring reality into correspondence with the ideology.”

All of which made clear to me how we each contribute to our own crises—both of conscience and of construct. That if I was frustrated with an action taken by others, I would do well to look away

from them, and turn back instead to inspect my own beliefs about the subject, because, quite simply, our own beliefs are very often the cause of actions by others that we don’t like. Most importantly, it showed me that if I wanted to alter the outcomes I was getting in any situation, I would do well to begin by checking out my own beliefs about the other person, myself, and the world. Mindful effort, effective understanding, and consistent practice over an extended period of time can reverse the cycle. The change starts with a decision to adopt a new belief, or—if you’re thinking big—a whole new set of them.

ZN: So­to­be­clear­with­folks,­what­do­you­mean­by­beliefs?­

ARI: I like what Kevin Bermingham writes in his book Change Your Limiting Beliefs: “Beliefs are simply a feeling of conviction or certainty that something is real or true. They’re based on our past experiences and what others have taught us. Beliefs are our best guess at reality—our mental model of how the world appears to work . . . Our knowledge of the real world is limited. So to get by, we rely on our beliefs instead. They’re the principles and rules by which we assume the world works.” We often say things like, “My theory is that . . . ,” or “I think that . . .” or “everyone knows” . . . which are all, also, really expressions of our beliefs. We have beliefs about pretty much everything. About the world, everyone we know, ourselves, everything we come into contact with. Bias and prejudice are beliefs as well. We have beliefs about books, about business, about beauty . . . . everything!

Values, I’d say are also beliefs. My view is that in the same sort of way that "all profit is part of finance, but there's more to finance than just profit," I've taken the view (i.e., belief) that "all values are beliefs, but not all beliefs are values." I think that values are based in ethics but of course dif-ferent people have different ethical stances. In essence it leads us all to a hierarchy of beliefs. If we're mindful and living in alignment, then our values would take precedence over our other, less critical to our core, beliefs.

I should say though that many of us have beliefs that, although we don't know it, conflict with our values or our visions for the future. And those beliefs are inhibiting our success. Many of us will say “the socially appropriate” thing in public, but in reality, deeper down, hold different, even conflict-ing, beliefs. Often we don’t even acknowledge to ourselves what we really believe in our hearts because what we believe isn’t really “acceptable.” In any case, I would say that values aren't really meant to change, whereas other beliefs might, and sometimes need to, change. Of course if you keep a belief for forty years without changing it I guess it starts to become in essence one's values.

ZN:­Did­you­intend­to­be­writing­about­beliefs­ back­ when­ Part­ 1­ of­ the­ Guide­to­ Good­ Leading­ series­ began­ back­ in­2007?

ARI: Not at all. It never even occurred to me. Like I said, it just sort of happened. My intent, three years ago, was to do this fourth book in the series on our approach to open book management. But, as I described above, my beliefs about beliefs got so strong that . . . something I’d barely thought about three years ago turned into a 500-page book! Open book is still coming but this one took priority. It was too interesting and important not to work on it!

ZN: What­were­some­of­your­biggest­learnings?­

ARI: There are so many! The whole book is really filled with them. There’s a Hasidic saying that “the teacher learns five times more than the student,” and I’m sure that’s true with this.

But in the moment, here’s two learnings about beliefs that are at the core of the whole book:

a) I started to see beliefs in three broad categories. Negative beliefs, neutral beliefs and positive beliefs. Remember, beliefs are the root system of our lives. Negative beliefs create negative out-comes. Neutral beliefs don’t do a whole lot. Positive beliefs create positive outcomes. As anarchist Alexander Berkman wrote a century or so ago, “You can’t grow a rose from a cactus seed.”

b) We can change our beliefs!! Once we know we have them, become mindful of what they are and understand how much impact they’re having on our lives, we may likely realize – as I did on my many subjects – that what we believe is creating a lot of the reality that we often don’t like. And that the quickest way to change reality is probably NOT to get others to change—it’s to change what we believe. About ourselves, about the people we’re frustrated with, about the world.

When I put those two together . . . it’s kind of obvious—holding negative beliefs is not helping us. But the good news is that we have the power to choose our beliefs accordingly! I can say that I’ve been working hard over the last few years to change my beliefs to be more positive. And getting good results from the work!

ZN: Can­you­give­us­an­example?­

ARI: There are a lot in the book. The majority of what I believe today is based on beliefs that have changed from the ones I used to hold. I used to have very negative beliefs about business when I was growing up. Paul changed those when we met at Maude’s (restaurant) back in 1978. He’d grown up with positive beliefs about business. His grandfather was in business and was very community-minded and very generous. Paul taught me quickly that business is just a tool—and that like any tool you can use it to do ill, or to do good. That belief remains at the core of all our work here at Zingerman’s.

On a smaller, more in the moment example . . . sure, I started to realize that at times I was holding negative beliefs about people that I was having a hard time with. And that my negative beliefs were a big part of the problem. So I’ve worked to make my beliefs more positive. I can’t say it’s completely eliminated the issues instantaneously. But it’s definitely helped to get us going in the right direction. And it’s radically reduced my own stress in the process.

THE BELIEFS BEHIND THE BOOK!Part­4­in­the­Zingerman’s Guide to Good Leading­series­hits­our­book­shelves

Early this summer, the fourth installment in the Zingerman’s Guide to

Good Leading series arrived at the Deli, Bakehouse, Roadhouse, Coffee,

Creamery shops, and at ZingTrain and Zingermans.com. This one will

be A Lapsed Anarchist’s Approach to the Power of Beliefs in Business. Like

Parts 1, 2 and 3, all the work on it has been coordinated right here at

Zingerman’s and they’re printed here in in Ann Arbor. For those who

watch the colors, this one will be blue (to go with the yellow, red and

green of the first three parts).

Page 7: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­7

ZN: So­are­you­saying­that­if­we­just­thinking­positive­thoughts­all­our­problems­will­go­away?­

ARI: No! Not at all. But without trying to sound silly you can have negative beliefs about a prob-lem, or positive beliefs about a problem.

Here’s a real life Zingerman’s example.

Go back to 1988. The problem? Too many people in Ann Arbor and the surrounding areas are going hungry. Here’s a negative belief one might have held: “We’re screwed! The system sucks. People are starving. There’s nothing we can do.”

Alternatively, here’s a positive belief about the same problem: “The situation is bad. But what if we put together an organization to pick up leftover food at restaurants and hotels and get it to the soup kitchens where folks who are hungry don’t have enough to eat?”

The positive belief was Paul’s. As many will already have realized, it formed the basis of the vision for what became Food Gatherers. Which last year delivered over 5,000,000 pounds of food here in Washtenaw county!

ZN:­Can­you­give­more­detail­on­what’s­in­the­book?­

ARI: There are 11 “Secrets” in it all told. Part 4 has Secrets #40-49. Secrets aka, essays #1-39 were in Parts 1, 2 and 3. #40 – 43 are about beliefs. #40 is a general overview. #41 is about my realization that if negative beliefs create negative outcomes, then we’re deluded if we think we’re going to build a great organization out of negative beliefs. It won’t work. You can generate a lot of short term energy out of negative beliefs—you can see that with racism, anti-Semitism, xenophobia, or in business, the idea of beating the competition. But in the long run those beliefs just flame out and die. A great healthy sustainable organization can only be built on positive beliefs.

#42 is an essay about the importance of alignment between our vision, mission, values, and beliefs. And #43 is a recipe (we like recipes here at Zingerman’s) for how to change one’s beliefs.

ZN: And­the­other­essays­in­the­book?­­­­

ARI: Two are on hope, and how critical it is in business. It’s something else I’d never given much thought to until a few years ago. The essays talk about my realization that when we—very often, unwittingly—crush hope in the people we work with, we basically kill their spirit and any chance of really getting us to organizational greatness. There’s another Secret on the spirit of generosity and how to put it to work every day in all we do. There’s an essay about my beliefs about anarchism, which I continue to build over the years. And then there’s some essays on visioning, our new staff orientation class and our approach to what we call 1 + 1 work, all of which I realized are systemic ways in which we’ve been building positive beliefs, hope and the living the spirit of generosity for years here, even though I couldn’t have previously explained how or what it was happening.

Oh, yeah. Speaking of recipes there are a dozen or so to use in your kitchen. A Tunisian couscous with octopus and harissa. Our challah bread from the Bakehouse. Chocolate dipped espresso cook-ies from the Bakehouse, and more!

On top of all that, there a few little literary surprises for people who like obscure sidebars and slightly off center trivia.

ZN: As­usual­there’s­a­lot­of­anarchists­in­the­book!

ARI: Yeah, it’s true. The more I study anarchism the more interesting it becomes to me. And the more I see huge alignment between anarchism—my version at least—and progressive business. I realized in working on the book that anarchism is really just a belief system, not a political approach, hence it’s a perfect fit for a book about beliefs in business. Gustav Landauer, one of the anarchists who’s inspired me most wrote a hundred years ago that: “We have no political beliefs—we have beliefs against politics.”

The essay about it here has a whole range of quotes in it that overlay the thinking of progressive modern day business writers and early 20th century anarchists. The parallels are fascinating to me. The essay also shares a lot of what I learned about Emma Goldman—someone who’s work has inspired me a lot, but who was probably the most controversial figure in the country a hundred years ago—and her visit to Ann Arbor back in 1911.

ZN:­That’s­a­lot!­

ARI:­It is!­­

Oh yeah, there’s a whole history of our building! I became fascinated with Rocco Disderide, the Italian immigrant who built it in 1902. It’s a great story. He lived to be 105! I interviewed his great grandchildren for the essay. They gave me the family recipe for pasta with fresh basil and butter and that’s in the book too!

ZN: Who­do­you­imagine­will­be­interested­in­the­book?­

I think it’s for everyone. At least everyone who likes to read and learn and who thinks a lot about life and the way their organization works. One of the most rewarding things about doing all this writing has been reaching readers all over the world. The books are resonating with people who are really thinking, deeply and mindfully, about what’s happening in their lives and their businesses and how they can do what they’re doing a bit differently to make more positive outcomes and a better, healthier business and life for themselves and the people who work there. The books in the series seem to connect with older and younger people, with people in business, in non-profits, in educa-tion, health care, hi-tech . . . just about every walk of life. We’ve got people giving them to their kids who are in school, and kids in school giving them to their parents who they see struggling with jobs they’re really unhappy in. One young woman I remember gave them to her mother and called them “the anti business business books.” I loved that!

ZN: Do­you­need­to­read­parts­1,­2­and­3­before­taking­a­shot­at­this­new­volume?­

ARI: You don’t. I’ve tried to write each of the books so that you can read them in any order you want. I’d say you could just open them to any essay you want and start reading there. In fact, one of the nicest compliments I got was from Lenka Surotchak in Slovakia where I was teaching this past May. She runs a very, very, very impressive non profit organization that’s growing quickly and doing some really fantastic work to help other non profits learn better organizational principles. And then also to teach progressive business in a country that was basically shut down by the Soviet Union for a good half a century. It’s called the Pontis Foundation. Anyways, she said when she’s having a

rough day she just opens one of the books randomly and starts reading. And that in fifteen or twenty minutes her mood is shifted and she’s excited to get back to work! That made my day to know that something I wrote can make that much difference for someone who, in turn, is making such a posi-tive difference for people in need all over the globe.

ZN: What­about­the­pamphlets?­

ARI: They’re small, single-subject booklets are for the people who don’t want to deal with a whole book. They’re essays from the books’—sort of the singles off the albums you could say. They’ve been a big hit with folks who get nervous about buying a whole book that’s hundreds of pages long, but who still are intrigued to do some learning. They've also been big with leaders who want to get their teams learning about a subject—had one national non-profit a few months ago that bought Secret #23 about servant leadership for all their upper level folks to read. Pamphlets, by the way, were basically social media back in 1900. People would buy one, then pass it on to their friends to spread ideas from person to person.

ZN: How­much­work­goes­into­doing­a­book­of­this­sort?­

ARI: A lot! A LOT! Four rounds of formal edits. Must be about a 1000 rewrites. Four more rounds of outside proofing. Lots of layout. Illustrations. Recipe testing. Jenny Tubbs coordinates the whole thing and does amazing work. She’ll catch where I’ve used a quote twice or forgotten some small thing. She keeps the illustration work coordinating with layout with printing and .. . honestly, it’s hard to imagine how much work it takes to get one page right! The good news is that I really like it. The writing, the editing, the layout and design. I love books and it’s an honor to be able to work with Jenny, our illustrators, Liz and Nicole who does layout and design to help make one.

ZN: What­about­the­illustrations?­

ARI: They’re amazing. They inspire me every time I look at them. They’re all done in scratchboard which is an old style that dates back to the early part of the 20th century and was very in vogue with creative thinkers, anarchists and others who walked their own way back in that era. You don’t see it much any more but I love it. The scratchboards done by Ian Nagy and Ryan Stiner who do incredible illustration work for us! There’s an interview I did with them at the back of Part 2.

ZN:­And­you’ve­kept­the­books­sort­of­off­the­grid?­

ARI: It’s true. I didn’t love working with the big publishing world. so many years ago we went back to doing our own books. We do all the work here. they’re printed in Ann Arbor. We try to stay off of amazon. People can get them from zingtrain.com or at zingermans.com. Or in the Deli, Bakehouse, Coffee Company, Creamery, Roadhouse, etc.

ZN: Last­thoughts?

ARI: The epilogue of the book is about my ever stronger belief that both life and business are essentially art. And that the more artistically and creatively we live them the more rewarding and wonderful and special they’re going to be. I became very fascinated with a guy named Robert Henri, an early 20th century painter and teacher. It happens he also hung out with Emma Goldman among other interesting folks from that era. In 1924 he wrote a book called The Art Spirit that I found really amazing. Although it’s a summation of his teaching work in art school, it’s really about life overall. I loved it. I’ve read it three times in the last few years. Can’t recommend it highly enough. Anyways, I quote him a lot in the book. He got me thinking and I hope this book gets a lot of good people think-ing as well.

Really the whole thing of the Guide to Good Leading series is to get folks thinking in new ways, ways that can help make their businesses and their lives more rewarding. As Robert Henri wrote, "All I can hope . . . is to incite you to do something for yourself—to create something. What it is, I can’t guess. I’m eager to see." Send me a note and let me know. My email is [email protected] Looking forward to lots more good dialogue to come!

THE BELIEFS BEHIND THE BOOK!Part­4­in­the­Zingerman’s Guide to Good Leading­series­hits­our­book­shelves

Page 8: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­8

SHARING ZINGERMAN’SUNIQUE APPROACH TO BUSINESS

ZINGTRAIN: You­ rocked­ the­ boat­ a­ little­ bit­ when­ you­ went­ to­ the­ Zingerman’s­Partners­Group­and­said­that­you­wanted­to­open­an­entirely­separate­business,­still­ in­Ann­Arbor,­and­totally­unrelated­to­food.­And­that­you­wanted­to­keep­being­a­partner­at­Mail­Order­while­you­did­that.­Tell­us­a­little­bit­about­that­moment.

TOM ROOT: Well, to be honest, it wasn’t a single moment. We had so much to figure out about how the details would work and looking back, I realize that the conversations lasted about a year. But there was also a singular moment. The moment when I first presented the idea to the Partners Group, back in 2010. This is what I said. Every word was true then, and remains true today.

“This is the highest form of honor I can pay this organization because I want to build a business that demonstrates, in the truest and most meaningful way, that the Zingerman’s Approach to Business can apply to any business, more specifically a business that is not called Zingerman’s.”

I know that many of ZingTrain’s clients have implemented our systems successfully, whether it is in the realm of Customer Service or Training or Leadership or Visioning. And it’s incred-ibly gratifying that that is true. But with Maker Works, I was literally talking about every single aspect of it. Customer Service, of course. And Servant Leadership. And yes, we wrote a Vision and have a Mission statement. But there is something more to it – it is more of a DNA transfer than a transfer of approach.

Like Zingerman’s, Maker Works is a triple bottom line business. Like ZIngerman’s, it is Maker Works mission to be deeply embedded in a community and to contribute to that community in a constructive, lasting way. Like Zingerman’s, the core belief at the foundation of Maker Works is that we don’t just exist to make money or even to contribute to the community, we are also striving to create a sustainable community where none existed before. And it is our intent to improve the lives of every single person that connects with that community, whether as a cus-tomer, supplier, employee or dreamer.

ZT: Over­the­course­of­this­conversation,­you­have­alluded­several­times­to­the­influence­Zingerman’s­has­had­on­you­as­a­person.­Can­you­elaborate­on­that,­particularly­ in­the­context­of­Maker­Works?

I’ve always been a big ideas kind of guy. And when I say big, I mean big. Like “Solve World Problems” big, which happens to be Maker Works Mission Statement.

When I came to Zingerman’s, much to the joy of my process-loving-mind, I found a practiced and repeatable path from dreamer to visionary to entrepreneur. It is the path we took to make Zingerman’s Mail Order an 8 million dollar business. It is the path I walked when I implemented Lean Manufacturing concepts at Mail Order and more recently, across all the Zingerman’s busi-nesses. And it is the path that made Maker Works a reality.

I have a strong belief that the disruptive technologies that are emerging today – bio-engineer-ing, nanotech, to name a couple – will dramatically change the way we live. At Zingerman’s, we hold the deep seated beliefs that big ideas are worth pursuing and that it is better to participate in change than to sit on the sidelines and be impacted by it. In fact, our very recipe for change, Bottom Line Change, is based on that belief. Maker Works is my way of choosing to participate in, even shape, the technology driven future that I believe is coming.

At Zingerman’s, we lavishly share our “secrets.” At Zingerman’s I found a better way of doing things and learned the power of sharing. I want to share our way of doing things in the realm of my passions and the sphere of my influence. Maker Works is a way of doing that. At our annual weeklong boot camps we lavishly share our business blueprint – from mission to machines - with people from all over the country who want to start their own maker facilities.

We’ve already talked about the community piece. Creating one and giving back to the one you belong to. This is a fundamental fact of Zingerman’s and one that has come to deeply influ-ence my way of thinking. But I wanted to go beyond board memberships on local non-profits. I believe that Maker Works has a role to play in the uniquely manufacturing dependent economy that is Michigan. The financial crisis left a lot of good people adrift. Good people that our econ-omy had been grooming for a future that will not come. Maker Works hopes to be a community for those very people. For the inventors amongst them, we provide the means of converting their dinner table dreams into prototypes. For the left-behind amongst them, we provide the opportunity for them to upgrade their skills and more technologically current in exchange for contributing to Maker Works. And then there is the more literal contribution that Zingerman’s has made to me as a person. The power of being associated with the Zingerman’s Community of Businesses. I’m certain that my partner at Maker Works was more willing to be my partner because of it. And that we get the attention and support we do because of it.

Ultimately, it’s not a construct that Maker Works looks like Zingerman’s – it was my intention. My experience at Zingerman’s has shaped me in many significant ways, and so have I shaped Maker Works.

ZT:­So­Maker­Works­works!­Tell­us­a­little­more­about­Maker­Works­itself.­The­nitty-gritty,­the­business­processes­you­use.­The­people­in­your­community.

TR: As I said before, Maker Works is a triple bottom line business. People. Planet. Profits. Maker Works is Open Book – we have scoreboards and weekly huddles. We practice Servant Leadership. We believe that everyone is a leader. And everyone is personally responsible. Don’t wait to be asked. Step up. We practice Bottom Line Training – Zingerman’s trademarked approach to training. It’s been invaluable in a setting where you are setting neophytes loose with incredibly powerful machines. We believe in fostering a community. In the world of manu-facturing, community creates resonance, safety, protects against myopathy, provides sounding boards and yes – labor. Because sometimes what you need most is someone to hold the other end. Maker Works believes in creating opportunity and closing the gap. We provide machines so that you don’t have to make that kind of capital investment. We teach you how to use the machines. We help you stay safe. Our floors get dirty not yours but it’s your ideas that get realized!

ZT: And­any­closing­thoughts?

TR: Maker Works is also an opportunity for school kids to learn skill sets that they would never otherwise learned. When I went to high school, we had fabrication shops. Even in an excellent Public School system like Ann Arbor’s, this is no longer the case. One of the moments of magic at Maker Works is watching a 55 year old pipefitter trade knowledge with a 17 year old high school student – one an expert in manufacturing, the other an expert in computers, both learning a whole new notion of rights and responsibilities when you belong to a community like ours.

Most of all, what I want to say in closing is – invest in your beliefs. The power of beliefs is the topic of Ari’s next book and an idea that deeply resonates with me. Your belief is important. Particularly, your belief in what the future is going to look like. Maker Works is my way to lobby for the future I see and seek. And sharing Maker Works far and wide is my way of infecting people with my vision of the future. Once I’ve shared that vision, they may choose to still not participate in it. But they can never not know it.

Email [email protected] if you would like to see a copy of the 2015 vision for Maker Works. Beware that you might be infected!

FROM THE INSIDE OUT : THE MAKING OF MAKER WORKS

ANN ARBOR'S MAKER SPACE“Maker Works provides tools, space, instruction and support, and a community of Makers to help you bring your ideas to life! Begin by taking a tour, then sign up for checkout classes for the tools you want to use. When you're ready to begin your project, sign up

for a day, month, or longer membership and come in and MAKE!

Drop by for a free tour anytime we’re open!

3765­Plaza­Drive­•­Ann­Arbor­MI­48108­•­734-222-4911

•­Cut­fabric­for­your­quilt­on­the­Epilog­Laser

•­Route­pieces­for­your­next­bookcase­on­the­ShopBot­CNC­Router

•­Cut­sheet­steel­into­an­artistic­sculpture­on­the­CNC­Plasma­Cutter

•­Embroider­your­name­or­team­logo­on­a­shirt­using­the­Amaya­Embroidery­Machine

•­Craft­spindles­for­furni-ture­and­staircases­using­the­Oliver­wood­lathe

•­Sew­heavy­canvas­and­leather­with­an­Industrial­Sewing­Machine

ZingTrain’s raison d’etre is to “share Zingerman’s unique and uniquely successful approach to business with businesses and organizations all over the country, and world.”We do this because we believe we have something of value to share. Something that we have tested and honed with just about every new business that Zingerman’s has opened.

We are proud and honored to tell you that our systems and values have proven applicable not just to the new Zingerman’s businesses that opened, but to hundreds of businesses, of every ilk, all across the nation.

Then in 2011, something happened. Something that had never happened in Zingerman’s 34 year long history. It turned out to be an entirely new venue in which to applying our way of being. To put it succinctly – we gave birth to a new business! MakerWorks was an entirely separate entity, not a Zingerman’s business, not even food related; but the Zingerman’s Community of Businesses was most certainly its progenitor.

Intrigued? Read on! What follows is an interview with Tom Root, Managing Partner of Zingerman’s Mail Order and also the Founding Partner of Maker Works, an 11000 square foot, member-driven fabrication studio right here in Ann Arbor. We caught up with Tom to find out how the Zingerman’s model works when applied so uniquely – from the inside out.

We also host monthly

groups, including Go-Tech,

the Michigan Robotics Club,

the Southeast MI CNC Users

Meetup, and a FIRST high

school robotics teams.

Page 9: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­9

MILKSHAKES & MALTSOne of the things that we believe here at Zingerman's Creamery is the value of tradition. In that spirit we are honoring two tradi-tions in one delicious cup; that of the American Soda Fountain, with its nostalgic memories of milkshakes and malts enjoyed with friends and first dates, and the Italian tradition of our rich Sicilian-style gelato made right here at Zingerman's Creamery! Stop in and we'll hand-spin your choice of gelato flavors with Calder Dairy milk, with or without the addition of malt powder, for a tasty trip down memory lane.

16oz $8.00/each

WAFFLE CONESOne of my favorite memories from childhood is getting permission to ride bikes with my best friend and get an ice cream cone at the corner store. Walking in, the smell that hits you wasn't of the sweet, milky ice cream confections, but rather the sugary, toasted aroma of the freshly made waffle cones! We are bringing that sweet smell to the southside of Ann Arbor at Zingerman's Creamery with our waffle cones, made on-site! Taking the best ingredients we can find including milk and butter from Calder Dairy, and eggs from Harnois Happy Hens, we make the cone and hand-roll them to just the right size for a scoop or two of our gelato or sorbet.

1 scoop cone, $4.50/each2 scoops cone, $6.50/each

3723 Plaza Drive, Ann Arbor • 734-929-0500 • zingermanscreamery.com

On­sale­at­Zingerman’s­Deli­and­Zingerman’s­Creamery!

new at Zingerman’s Creamery!

Munch-able Cheese PlatesPerfect for a light lunch, afternoon snack, or pack it up for a picnic in the park - these cheese plates are a great grab-n-go option! Every week we’ll pick a few of our favorite cheeses, a cured meat, and a pickle to feature in our Creamery Munch-able Plates. Each plate includes your choice of jam or mustard, and a piece of French Baguette from Zingerman’s Bakehouse (gluten-free crackers available by request)!

$8.00 eachAvailable every day in the Cheese Shop at Zingerman’s Creamery!

JULYPERE MARQUETTE Conveniently contained in its own crock, it’s ready for heating and eating. This creamy cheese gem can be eaten warmed up or cold. Once warmed, it spins itself into a gooey little pot of greatness, pre-senting itself as a dip for your favorite crusty bread, crispy crackers or flavor loaded summer veggies.

AUGUSTMANISTIQUEWe’ve taken to wrapping our signature Jersey cow’s milk cheese in cabbage leaves. Now why would we want to go and do a thing like that? Aside from the obvious visual appeal (they really are quite stun-ning to look at), the leaf wrapping alters the flavor and texture of our Manchester as it ages, enhancing the earthy and com-plex notes of the super rich Jersey milk we use to make it while helping to break down its luscious, dense paste. The end result is a ridiculously creamy, full-flavored cheese that will steal the spotlight on any table it graces with its presence.

A Soft Cheese You Can Grill??MANISTIQUE

Milkshakes and Malts and Waffle Cones!now available at Zingerman's Creamery!

Perhaps it has something to do with how our harsh win-ters provide such a contrast, but come Summertime we Michiganders sure do love to get outside and grill pretty much every chance we get. Do we revel and cook out-doors in the warmer weather so much because we know it isn’t going to last? Who knows?! The real takeaway here is that grilling is awesome and an essential part of a complete Michigan Summer, and we at the Creamery very strongly believe that cheese can and should be an integral part of that experience.

Enter the Manistique. Wrapped up with hefty savoy cabbage leaves, our soft-ripened, ridiculously rich Jersey Cow’s milk cheese is just perfect for grilling, and what makes this one uniquely suited to a backyard bbq is its texture. There are very few soft, creamy, gooey cheeses that can hold up on a grilltop, but the cabbage leaves this one comes wrapped inside are just wonderful at making sure you don’t lose any of that cheese as it gets progressively gooyier under heat.

It doesn’t take very much time on a grill to get the Manistique ready for action. Anywhere from a minute to over 10 does the trick, depending on how melty you want that cheese to get on the inside. We also love the way the smells of the grill infuse the cheese, and it’s become a staple you’ll often see at our backyard parties. We hope it’ll become one for you, too!

NEW CREAMERY SHOP HOURS!

Starting August 1st we will be open 10am-6pm every day

This­change­will­help­us­continue­to­provide­great­service­in­our­Creamery­Shop­during­our­construction­project­and­beyond.­Stop­in­for­samples­of­great­cheeses,­gelato,beer,­wine­and­more!

August cheese of the month!

Page 10: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­10

BOOK A SPOT AT ANY ZINGERMAN’S EVENT AT EVENTS.ZINGERMANSCOMMUNITY.COM

Zingerman’s­Roadhouse­hosts­special­dinners­that­highlight­old­favorites,­new­finds,­celebrated­chefs­and­traditional­American­foodways.­Our­dinners­are­family-style­affairs­that­deliver­really­good­food­with­a­little­history­on­the­side.­ 422­Detroit­Street­•­734.663.3400­­

www.zingermansdeli.com

Zingerman’s­Deli­tastings­are­designed­to­give­you­an­insider’s­view­of­the­foods­that­we’ve­searched­

the­world­for.­You’ll­often­meet­the­folks­who­make­it­and­leave­with­a­mouthful­of­flavor­and­a­new­understanding­of­everything­from­olive­oil­to­

sardines,­cheese­to­chocolate.­

Cheese­Classes,­Tastings­&­Tours!Our­events­are­intimate­affairs­where­our­cheesemakers­and­cheesemongers­share­their­passion­ for­ great­ cheese­ and­ great­ cheesemaking.­ We­ hold­ these­ classes­ right­ next­ to­where­we­make­our­cheese­and­gelato,­and­sometimes­bring­in­our­favorite­food­makers­from­around­the­area­to­share­their­stories­with­you.­To­get­the­inside­scoop­on­all­of­our­events,­sign­up­for­our­e-news­at­zingermanscommunity.com/e-news.

3723­Plaza­Drive­•­734.929.0500­•­zingermanscreamery.com

2501­Jackson­Road­•­734.663.3663­•­www.zingermansroadhouse.com

3723­Plaza­Dr.­734.929.6060­www.zingermanscoffee.com

Whether­we’re­pulling­a­shot­for­you­in­our­café­on­Plaza­Drive­or­sending­you­off­with­a­bag­of­fresh­roasted­beans,­our­passion­is­to­source,­roast­and­brew­great­coffee.­Our­classes­are­designed­for­ the­coffee­novice­and­nerd­alike­and­aim­to­help­everyone­learn­about­everything­it­takes­to­turn­a­great­bean­into­a­great­cup­of­coffee.­

BREWING METHODS

Sunday July 24th from 1pm-3pmSunday August 21st from 1pm-3pmLearn the keys to successful coffee brewing using a wide vari-ety of brewing methods from filter drip to syphon pot. This tasting session will explore a single coffee brewed 6 to 8 dif-ferent ways, each producing a unique taste. A demonstration of the proper proportions and techniques for each method and a discussion of the merits and differences of each style will take place.

COMPARATIVE CUPPING Sunday July 10th from 1pm-3pmSunday August 7th from 1pm-3pm Sample coffees from the Africa, Central and South Americas, and the Asian Pacific. We will taste and evaluate these coffees using the techniques and tools used by professional tasters. This is an eye-opening introduction of the world of coffee.

CHEDDAR: The All-American Classic and Beyond!Thursday, July 76pm-8pm • $30/personJoin us for an evening of cheddar exploration! We’ll travel the globe tasting classic English clothbound styles, a few of our favorite regional American cheddars, and a couple of new-comers to the world of cheddar that are unique. As we travel through tasting, we’ll talk about what makes the cheddar style unique, how it’s made, and the producers that made our sample cheeses. We’ll have bread, pickled veggies, and other pairings to complete your tasting experience!

BEER 101Thursday, July 14 • 6pm-8pm$35/personWhat goes better with cheese than beer? More cheese! Join us as we celebrate Michigan craft beer month by trying some of our favorite cheese and beer pairings. We’ll talk about the brewing process, major styles of beer, and some of our other favorite cheese couples. We’ll even end the eveningwith a beer & gelato float!

AN EVENING OF CIDER & CHEESEThursday, August 116pm-8pm • $35/personJoin us as we host special guest Amanda from Vander Mill Cider! Amanda will introduceus to their delicious hard ciders and we will showcase some great cheeses to pair with them. This tasting is a great way to get ready for your Labor Day par-ties at the end ofthe month. You will leave armed with notes on the cheeses, the ciders, and the pairings- and most impor-tantly, ready to wow your guests!

CHEESE 101Thursday, August 256pm-8pm • $30/personThis class is a prerequisite for your major in cheese! Join us as we sam-ple cheeses that represent each of the seven major styles of cheese - all hand-selected by our shop chee-semongers. We’ll talk about what makes each style unique, share tips for building a well-rounded cheese board, and provide an overview of cheese-pairing basics with beer and wine. We’ll also have bread and pickled veggies to round out thesampling courses.

ANNUAL BBQ DINNER With Ann Arbor’s King of Cuban Pork, Fidel GalanoJuly 12, 7pm-9:30pm$75 per person (Price includes dinner, tax and gratuity. Beverages additional).

Ari has been working on bringing this year’s guest speaker to the Roadhouse for the annual BBQ dinner for over a decade and we are happy to say, 10 years later, it is finally happening. Fidel Galano, an IT Director by day and a master of Cuban cooking by night, along with being a long-time Zingerman’s customer, is lend-ing his talent and passion to one of our favorite dinners of the year.

Fidel has been working with our chefs to create a menu sharing his family’s love of Cuban American cooking. He’ll share stories of growing up in Spanish Harlem, his mother’s, grandmother’s and family’s (mostly aunts) recipes, the emotional connection with the cooking in the Cuban and Puerto Rican community and the sig-nificance of pork in his family. We guarantee you will eat well and leave wishing that you, too, had been born Cuban. Fidel is about as apasionada (passionate) as anyone we have ever met!

THE ARGENTINE ASADOA Special Dinner at the RoadhouseWednesday, August 3rd, 7pm$75 per person (Price includes dinner, tax and gratuity. Beverages additional).

Taking a turn frm our classic American BBQ we serve daily at the Rhoadhouse this year's sec-ond BBQ dinner of the summer has us travel-ing to Argentina. A buffet meal of grilled octopus salad, spicy chicken empanadas, garlic langostinos, branzino fillets with lime, churrasco (flat iron steak), chimchurri pork belly, dulce de leche flan and more will be served on the patio. Our BBQ dinners are some of the most popular dinners of the year- don't wait to reserve a seat!

A CELEBRATION OF THE SUMMER HARVEST hosted by Zingerman's Roadhouse featuring Zingerman's Cornman FarmsAugust 16, 7pm-9:30pm$75 per person (Price includes dinner, tax and gratuity. Beverages additional).

The first Cornman Farms dinner of the year, this summer harvest menu will be filled with fresh summer vegetables and feature meats from Cornman Farms. Radishes, cucumbers, squash, squash blossom, tomatoes, spin-ach and potatoes will all be harvested hours before the din-ner. Chef Alex has prepared a menu that showcases the veg-etables, beef, and pork, but also cooks with each of them in ways you wouldn't expect. Join us for the first dinner of the season and celebrate the summer harvest with Cornman Farms

YOUR WEEKEND JUST GOT LONGER! Now open until 10 pm on Sundays (Memorial Day-Labor Day).

SUNDAE SOCIALDeli Patio • August 9th • 4:00 - 7:00pm$6.99 - Price of a Sundae Back by popular demand!We’re throwing a Sundae Social on the Deli Patio and we hope you and your friends will join us! Our Next Door sweet treat experts will help you make a custom designed sundae. Our party fun will also include craft activities and games for kids of all ages. Save the date and make sure to bring your sweet tooth!

PIAZZA ZINGERMANZA August 13 • 11am - 3pm • Deli PatioLive Demonstrations/EducationFree to AttendJoin us for our free event on the patio, the 12th annual Piazza Zingermanza, in celebration of all things Italian. Our annual August tradition of transforming the Deli’s Patio into an Italian Street Food Fest is one of the high-lights of the year. There will be good food, good music, good demos, good deals and good company.

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Page 11: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­11

BOOK A SPOT AT ANY ZINGERMAN’S EVENT AT EVENTS.ZINGERMANSCOMMUNITY.COM

Hands-on­Baking­ClassesBAKE!­ is­ our­ hands-on­ teaching­ bakery­ in­ Ann­ Arbor,­ tucked­between­Zingerman’s­Bakehouse­and­Creamery.­At­BAKE!­we­share­our­ knowledge­ and­ love­ of­ baking­ with­ the­ home­ baker­ commu-nity,­seeking­to­preserve­baking­traditions­and­inspire­new­ones.­We­offer­dozens­of­different­bread,­pastry­and­cake­classes­in­our­very­own­teaching­kitchens.­All­of­us­at­ the­Bakehouse­know­the­joy­and­excitement­of­baking­something­really­good­and­sharing­it­with­friends­when­it’s­hot­out­of­the­oven.­You’ll­leave­BAKE!­with­the­food­you­made­in­class­and­the­inspiration­and­skills­to­bake­at­home!

THURSDAYS from 3-7pmZingerman’s Roadhouse

Parking LotThe 2016 season marks the 10th year of the West-

side Farmers Market (WSFM) in the Roadhouse parking lot every Thursday during the summer. The market brings fresh fruits, vegetables, hand made crafts, fresh-cut flowers, local musicians

and the community together.

Join us and enjoy fresh-from-the-farm fruits, veggies and meats locally made cheeses, jams,

breads and pickles, and much more!

8540­Island­Lake­Road,­Dexter­•­734.619.8100­•­cornmanfarms.com

CINN-FUL CINNAMON ROLLS4 dates to choose from:Saturday, July 9th, 1:30-5:30pmSaturday, July 23rd, 8am-12pmSaturday, August 6th, 8am-12pm Saturday, August 27th, 8am-12pm$125One of our most popular classes! Your family and house guests won't soon forget waking up to the aroma of butter, cinnamon, and muscovado brown sugar permeating the house from the fresh baked sweet rolls. Join us and find out how it's done. Learn the basic techniques of creat-ing a sweet dough including mixing, kneading and rolling, hand-shaping your rolls, and properly proofing them. We'll also demonstrate how to make pecan sticky buns, a staff favorite. Wait until you taste these warm from the oven in class! Go home with a half dozen cinnamon rolls, a cinnamon wreath and dough to bake at home.

PICNIC DESSERTSSunday, July 17th, 1-5pm • $125We’ll make tender Bakehouse sweet cream biscuits, golden vanilla pound cake and pavlova, a crisp sweet meringue. What do they have in common? They’re all delicious vehicles for your pick of ripe summer fruit and whipped cream. These simple and scrumptious treats are real crowd pleasers. Once word gets out about the desserts you're making, summer pic-nics and barbecues might turn in to block parties. Go home with all the desserts you made in class. $125

DINNER SERIES: SICILIANOFriday, August 26th, 1-5pm • $125 Let's make dinner together! Frank Carollo, Bakehouse co-managing partner, takes you back to his family’s roots with some of his favorite flavors of Sicily. In this hands-on class you’ll make risotto with radicchio and pistachios, pane nero rolls and amaretti morbidi almond cookies for dessert. Go home with dinner for four! $125

COCKTAIL CLASS: AN EVENING TO RUM-EMBERJuly 21, 7:00 pm to 9:30 pm $70/personRum has a long and fas-cinating history that goes hand-in-hand with the history of European colonization of both the Caribbean and what became the United States. Rum is available in many varieties (we’ll try three tonight: silver, gold and dark) and has been used in cocktails since the 1600s. The American Revolution was conceived over a bowl of Rum Punch in a tavern on the East Coast in the 1700s. The economics of rum fueled the development of New England the way tobacco fueled the southern colonies. Hemingway drank many a rum cocktail while writing some of his most famous novels. Come join us this evening as we discuss the glorious, bloody, romantic, and industrious history of this sugarcane-based liquor while crafting three delicious rum-based cocktails. Nibble on some tasty snacks prepared by the culinary team at the farm and sail away with us as we explore the history of rum!

COCKTAIL CLASS: TIKI TRAVELSAugust 18th, 7:00 pm to 9:30 pm$75/person

Mai­Tai­Roa­Ae!­(“It’s­out­of­this­world—fantastic!”)The concept of Tiki is so much more than just a sweet rum drink with an umbrella! In many Polynesian cultures, “Tiki” refers to one of the first humans on earth, and has been part of their creation stories since the dawn of time. In 1930s Hollywood, “Tiki” came to mean colorful shirts, beach cul-ture, and many fruit- and rum-based drinks. Trader Vic and Don the Beachcomber invented this larger-than-life bar scene some 80 years ago, and it’s been a popular movement in the US (and some other parts of the world) ever since. Join us this evening for a discussion of Tiki culture as we explore its roots both in Hollywood and in the islands of Polynesia. We’ll learn to make (and then drink!) three clas-sic Tiki cocktails using fruit, rum, and special syrups made just for this event. We may even set one on fire! Guests will enjoy farm-fresh snacks and leave with recipes for all the cocktails and syr-ups featured in this class. Hawaiian shirts encour-aged! (Note: these cocktails may contain ingredients made with nuts)

- Eats,Treats & Refreshments

- Farm Games- Floral Workshop

- Photo Booth

cornmanfarms.com Festival Tickets $8.00

We Invite You To Enjoy A Taste Of

Zingerman’s On The Farm With Ari Weinzweig

july 24th, 1:30-4pm

Farm­Tours,­Special­Dinners­and­ClassesSeveral­times­a­month,­we­open­our­doors­to­welcome­you­to­the­Cornman­Farms­Experience.­We­offer­farm-to-fork­din-ners,­cocktail­and­cooking­classes,­and­farm­tours.

3723­Plaza­Dr.­•­734.761.7255­www.bakewithzing.com

Sign up or browse our menu of more than 60 classes at

www.bakewithzing.com

Page 12: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­12

Pimento Cheese: Pâté for the Southern PalateI hardly even know where to start on this one. Pimento cheese has been pretty much the surprise of the year for me. Like the horse races in the spring,, it was sort of a triple crown of surprises. First, I was surprised by what it was; second by how passionate people down South are about it; and third by how quickly non-Southerners have embraced it here in Ann Arbor.

I guess the place to begin is with the fact that my ignorance of pimento cheese almost got me kicked out of the Southern Foodways Alliance conference last fall. In one of those really-stupid-but-you-didn’t-know-it-was-stupid-or-you-wouldn’t-have-said-it moments, I let slip a derogatory comment about pimento cheese in public. Hey, what I did I know? I’d never actu-ally had pimento cheese. I was sitting with all these high-end food folks. And in my ignorance, I assumed that pimento cheese was . . . well, I’m going to just admit it and get it over with . . I thought pimento cheese was like the pimento loaf stuff that they sell in the deli cases of mass-market grocery stores. You know, pasteurized, processed cheese that no one that’s into full flavored food would want to eat. I think the first person called me out on my food faux pas was Kristen Hindes, who’s lived much of her life in Atlanta. When she heard me slough off pimento cheese she gave me a look of horror, as if I’d just made some sort of terrible deroga-tory comment. I thought she was seriously going to kill me. I can ‘t remember exactly what I said to her in response to that look, but I’m sure it wasn’t very smart. Probably something along the lines of, “Well you don’t really eat that stuff do you . . . ?”

Knowing not what I was walking into, I was shocked to hear her aloud, “Noooo! Of course we eat pimento cheese. What are you talking about? It’s the best!” At first I thought maybe it was just some kind of emotional thing that Kristen had for this stuff—I come across people who have soft spots for stuff like Twinkies and Fruit Loops all the time and I figured this was just another case of childhood bonding to an otherwise not interesting food. Man, was I wrong. Totally, completely radically off base. Pimento cheese is neither fad nor faux. It’s very real, American food with a very long history, and, in all seriousness, it makes for some really good eating.

To check my reality after my collision with Kristen’s culinary psyche I started asking oth-ers around the conference about pimento cheese. And much to my shock and chagrin (and maybe even, awe) everyone else from the South was just as passionate as Kristen was, some even more so. Literally every Southerner I asked seemed to have been raised on pimento cheese and they all really liked it. Everyone either had fond memories of it, still makes it now, or some combination of both. And I do mean everyone—I surveyed white people, black people, older folks and some barely out of their teens. I talked to people from every part of the South—Tennessee, Texas, Kentucky and South Carolina. Long story short, what I discov-ered was that most everyone in the South eats pimento cheese. Not only do they eat it but they have really strong feelings about it. They argue over it. They fight over who’s got the best recipe. And they, uh, get very upset if you make fun of it.

Of course wanting to learn more I started looking for books on the subject. Thanks to the Southern Foodways Alliance there actually is a book—“Pimento Cheese Invitational, 2003.” Lest you have any doubt of the gravity with the seriousness of the subject, the book has over two hundred pages of recipes and very personal remembrances about pimento cheese. As is so often the case for me, books not only provide answers but also prompt conversation. I had the thing lying on a table at the Deli while I was working one morning when Nancy Eubanks, who runs Zingerman’s Catering, stopped and stood by with her mouth and eyes wide open staring at me. She waited about a minute I think before she got this huge smile on her face and then blurted out something along the lines of “Where did you get that?”. Still not quite having grasped the enormity of the emotion around the stuff, I asked her if she’d heard of pimento cheese. The look I got back was akin to the kind I’d seen on Kristen’s face six months earlier. "Heard of it? I grew up on it,” she said with a big smile and very wide eyes. “It’s the greatest!”

I guess before we go any farther here, I should back up a bit here and tell my fellow Yankees who don’t know from pimento cheese just what it is. Ready? It’s a blend of grated cheese (usually cheddar) with mayonnaise (though some folks use Miracle Whip), chopped pimentos, and spices. If you’re starting to make a face, save yourself the embarrassment I put myself through because, honestly, good pimento cheese is really, really good. To help acculturate those who aren’t of Southern origin, I should say too that most folks who speak southern don’t pronounce it quite like it looks. It’s more along the lines of “pimenah” (pardon my poor phonetics); others call it “mena” cheese, and some simply say “PC.” I’m sure there are about a thousand regional variations I haven’t yet—but hope to soon—hear.

Anyways, a bit of historical background. According to Kendra Myers, writing in the “Pimento Cheese Invitational,” it’s been a big deal in the South since the early years of the 20th century, for sure featured in Southern groceries since 1915.” The poverty of the Depression years made

it even more of a hit than it already was. And it’s apparently—despite my ignorance—contin-ued to grow in popularity ever since. What do you do with it? Might as well just quote Kendra Myers again: “Why do we love it so? Well, it’s easy to make, it’s cheap and it tastes great. It doesn’t make white bread go soggy, and it keeps well. It’s good between two slices of bread, lining a rib of celery, packed into a cherry tomato, or perched on a cracker. It’s heaven on a hamburger or a hot dog. Or eaten with a spoon right out of the crock.”

The cool thing though is that it turns out that it’s not just Southerners who seem to like it. I made up my first batch at home and brought it in the Roadhouse where I rather tentatively gave tastes to the first ten or twelve staff members who came by. Shockingly I got nearly unanimous praise—they loved it (and let me tell you the odds of everyone liking any new thing we introduce the first time through are next to nil, so getting this much early support was akin to hitting a home run in your first major league at bat.)

With that much support I decided to venture out in public with pimento cheese and put it on the specials list at the Roadhouse. That’s no small thing for me because everything I’d learned about told me that pimento cheese is just the sort of homemade, nearly ubiquitous food that I’m always kind of afraid to do—since everyone grew up with it everyone’s going to have a radically different version in their head of what it should be like (it’s akin to having 50 Jewish people over and hoping they all like your chopped liver.) So far, knock on wood, the response has been consistently good to great. One guy told me it was almost as good as his mother’s (that’s about as good as it gets I think.) Another, from Missouri told me it was the real thing. A third from Mississippi said it was great, “like a redneck endorsement!” One older customer who grew up in the Depression in Arkansas, grabbed me at the Roadhouse and said firmly, “Congratulations!” “For what?” I asked, not being able to think of anything significant that I’d done of late. “Pimento cheese,” she answered, a bit of her Southern accent still com-ing through even after many decades of living in Ann Arbor. “It’s better than what I grew up on,” she said very seriously. I later gave Nancy Eubanks some of my early test batch to taste. Her response was, “Oh my God! Too good! Paris, Texas (her hometown) would be proud!”

Bigger Than BarbecueIn the ten months since I made my first faux pas at that conference down in Mississippi, I’ve come to the conclusion that pimento cheese is really a bigger thing in the Southern psyche than barbecue. That’s right. This seemingly silly cheese spread that I stupidly made fun of is actually a more important piece of everyday Southern culture than its much beloved barbe-cue (which, please don’t let me get into trouble again, is also an extremely big deal and very, very good!) Because although both are much loved, barbecue in our modern world is really something you go out to get. Hardly anyone does whole hog barbecue at home any more except on very special occasions. I mean you gotta have a big family to handle a 120-pound hog. And you gotta have a lot of time on your hands to do the fourteen hours or so on the pit that it takes to do it right.

Pimento cheese, on the other hand, is well within everyone’s budget, both time-wise and cost-wise. You can feed it two or two hundred. It can have, and I sense has, shown up at most any meal. To quote Melissa Booth Hall, “Pimento cheese . . . is not so much the food of special occasions as it is the stuff of everyday life.” Real people eat it, they eat it a lot, they love it.

In that sense, I realize pimento cheese is very much what John T. Edge would might call an “iconic American food.” It’s truly unique to here. It’s not a fad. It’s not phony. And because it actually tastes good (I know that’s my opinion but . . . ) it’s not just something with high emotional attachment but no culinary value. So in that sense it is very much the sort of full flavored traditional food that we focus on here at Zingerman’s. and it’s totally the kind of really good American food that running the Roadhouse has pushed us to “discover,” deliver and teach about. Pimento cheese, like so much of what we serve, is fun, culturally complex, historically intriguing and good to eat all at once—I do really love my job.

Men Bond Over BBQ But Women Are Passionate about Pimento CheeseI made a joke to one of our staff members who’s getting her degree in Sociology that there was probably a graduate thesis to be written about the role of pimento cheese in Southern culture. Based on my year-ago conference collision with Kristen Hindes’ I should have known better than to make light of the subject. Because two weeks after I said it I’ve realized that it’s probably actually accurate. While I haven’t done the thesis, here’s my theory.

From my “foreigner’s” (or you could say “northerner’s”) experience of it, I’m going to general-ize and say that, the more I think about it, the more it strikes me that barbecue is a very male

THE STORY OF PIMENTO CHEESE AT ZINGERMAN’S: How­a­century-old­Southern­Staple­became­a­Culinary­Mainstay­in­Michigan­in­the­21st­century!

I wrote the article below about ten years ago. Shortly after it appeared, we came out with a pimento cheese t-shirt. Emblazoned on the front was

the message, “Zingerman’s, Pimento Cheese Capital of the Midwest” on it. A decade later, I’m pretty sure we can say that that vision has success-

fully come true. We now sell hundreds of pounds of pimento cheese every week, and we ship to customers and to restaurants and retailers all

over the country. Learn more about this culinary delight's provenence and why it is so loved.

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ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­13

THE STORY OF PIMENTO CHEESE AT ZINGERMAN’S: How­a­century-old­Southern­Staple­became­a­Culinary­Mainstay­in­Michigan­in­the­21st­century!

Stephanie Suchala from the Roadhouse: “I enjoy a grilled pimento and blue cheese sammiches on Bakehouse sourdough with fresh tomatoes.”

Kelly Nugent from Mail Order: “I like to make pimento cheese biscuits at home. I use the standard recipe on the back of the Clabber Girl baking powder can, but substitute 3 oz of pimento cheese for the shortening, sneak in a couple teaspoons of sugar, and slather the tops of the biscuits with salted butter before sliding 'em in the oven. They always come out looking real pretty, speckled with the chunks of cheese and pimento peppers. They taste good on their own, but are even better with a generous smear of butter and pepper jelly.”

Nancy Leat from the Roadhouse: “Broiled over the Roadhouse's corned beef hash with a couple poached eggs on top and biscuits and honey.....just sayin'......”

Kieron Hailes, managing partner at Events at Cornman Farms: “I make Scotched eggs and replace the egg with the cheese!! My three-year-old son Henry loved them.”

Marcy Harris of Zingerman’s Roadhouse: “I am a Zingerman's Pimento cheese addict, and proud of it. Typically my go-to sandwich after a busy brunch shift is the pimento cucumber sandwich on Bakehouse White from the Roadshow. I love the cool refreshing cucumber against the firey smokiness of the cheese. Even better with a few pieces of Nueske's Applewood Bacon to amp up the smoky flavor. This is going to sound a little different, but about a year ago I starting thinking about a British favorite, cheese and pickle sandwiches. Traditionally, these are made with Cheddar cheese and a sweet, vinegary pickle chutney, which sounds amazing in and of itself. The more I thought about this sandwich, the more I began to picture it in my mind as a Pimento cheese and pickle sandwich. After pick-ing up a jar of Jenny's Famous Hot and Sweet pickles in Dexter, I started making my own version of cheese and pickle sandwiches with our Pimento cheese, and it has become my favorite lunch at home ever since. I think I will make one this instant!”

Iris Chen at the Deli: “I love pimento cheese on a grilled bialy. Nice twist on a classic grilled cheese.”

Pattie Lambka of Zingerman’s Mail Order:“Ooooh! A couple eggs scrambled - before they're done add a dollop of Pimento Cheese and let warm up til gooey. Toast a slice or two of Peppered Bacon Farm bread, spread with cultured butter, top with the Pimento Cheese Eggs. A special treat! (I top with a thick slice of tomato from the garden in the summer.) Served open-faced or sandwich.

Marshall from the Deli said, “One guest over at Tracklements (in Kerrytown) loves to simply mix this into hot pasta for quick mac and cheese.”

Coral Pumarada from the Bakehouse: "I like it on an egg sandwich! I use one of the Frita buns we bake, add pepperoni, sautéed mushrooms and onions, fried egg, pimento cheese."

Bryan Weiss from Zingerman’s Catering: “I made arancini di riso with it once and that was tasty. I also like to melt it on top of the #422 at the Deli, Eddie's Big Deal."

thing in the South, but pimento cheese is much more feminine. It’s not that women don’t eat barbecue nor that men don’t like pimento cheese because clearly most everyone eats both. But as I think about what I’ve learned of late, I realized that I think every book I’ve read about barbecue was written by a guy. And every pit master is a man. And that although women definitely like barbecue they don’t seem to go on about it at anywhere near the length that guys do.

The reverse though is true of pimento cheese. Guys like it a lot, but women really kind of wax rhapsodic about it. Their eyes roll, they smile big, they really almost ooze emo-tion in the way that one would over a great movie love story or . . . (Granted, John T. Edge is very passionate about pimento cheese, but I realized perhaps more so when it’s on a burger which is back to the male thing with meat . . . ) Anyways, I know I’m generalizing gender preferences, but seriously, from my experience this is the way it’s been. I realized that the data I was looking for was right there in the Pimento Cheese Invitational book—even after giving men the benefit of the doubt and credit for non-gender clear names like “Pat,” 236 of the 278 writers in the book (that’s a whopping 85%!) are women.

OK, enough about pimento cheese. By this point in the conversation you’re either as sur-prised as I was that there’s this much to say on the subject. Or you’re surprised that any-thing I’ve written wasn’t already incredibly obvious to me. Or you’re ready to send me your recipe and set me straight on the true pimento cheese path. In any case, thanks for reading. Thanks to Kristen Hindes and everyone else who’s helped me learn American culinary history in such an engaging way. And thanks in advance to those who know much more—and have eaten much more—pimento cheese than I have. Here’s to many more flavorful culinary surprises to come!

Pimento Cheese BurgersLast winter I was down in Columbia, South Carolina to visit Anson Mills (where we get those amazing grits and Carolina Gold rice from). At the suggestion of John T. Edge (who some of you met when he was at the Roadhouse last March as part of a special dinner we did featuring his “Fried Chicken” book) I ate my first pimento cheese burger there. (Note by the way that it’s a “pimento cheese burger,” not a “pimento cheeseburger,” ok? Or in Columbia where they call ‘em “pimento burgers.”) The burger wasn’t bad but the idea of it was clearly great. In honesty as soon as I had two bites that it could be even better if we made it with better beef (that fresh ground Niman Ranch chuck is hard to beat) and better cheese (aged Vermont cheddar from Grafton Village). Having put pimento cheese burg-ers on as a special over the last few months, I can tell you that they’ve been an almost overnight hit. We sold twenty at lunch just the other day. And that’s when hardly anyone in Ann Arbor even knows what they are (it doesn’t hurt thought hat the staff loves them!). To quote John T. from his soon-to-be-released book “Hamburgers and Fries,” a pimento

cheese burger is, “. . . a molten stack of meat and goo. It’s also delicious.” No question that he’s right. Everyone from chefs to busboys is into them. I think it’s safe to say that they’ll be on the next menu. For the moment feel free to ask for one any time. If we’ve got the cheese, you can have the burger!

You can certainly make your own pimento cheese at home. But you can also buy it by the pound at the Roadhouse or the Deli, or order at the Roadhouse whenever you like. In any context please, ask for taste. If you grew up on it, I hope we can surprise you with a little taste of your past in a setting (Michigan!) that you didn’t expect to find it. And if you’ve never had it before, I hope we can surprise you with just how good pimento cheese is. Either way, you’ll have the chance to experience an authentic, and surprisingly tasty, little bit of traditional American eating.

Available at Zingerman's Roadhouse, Deli, Mail Order and Creamery

Over the years it’s become one of our single most popular items at the Roadhouse, Deli, and Creamery and graces the tables a good number of the many events catered by the Deli and the Roadhouse. Zingerman’s Mail Order ships it to loyalists all over the U.S.! The Creamery even wholesales it to shops, restaurants and cafés across the country. If you know of one that should be serving it, by all means let us know. Write to Paul Bower at [email protected]. If you haven’t already tried it, beware—people don’t seem to be able get enough of it. The other day one long time customer called it “cheese crack.”

To get a sense of what those who know it best like to do with their pimento cheese, I sent an email to folks around the Zingerman’s Community to get the inside scoop. I think I got more responses to it the first few hours than any other email I’ve ever sent out to the organization!

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ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­14

Finding really great coffee is much more than just a passion at Zingerman’s Coffee Company –finding really great coffee is a mentally and physically stimu-lating adventure. We travel the globe to find coffees that we think you will truly enjoy. And while travel certainly has its shining and inspiring moments, much of the journey is less than luxurious. Origin travel proves to be very difficult at times. Considering many places don’t accept certain credit cards and differences in currency can be problematic, obtain-ing necessities is a challenge. Getting from Point A to Point B often proves to be a long and treacherous excursion. However, in spite of the challenges, the real magic begins when we arrive at our destination and make contact with the farm’s producer. Here, the true journey begins.

The beginnings of this affiliation began several years ago when we were introduced to Don Ricardo and his daughter Viviana Gurdian through our friend Karen Gordon at Coffee Holding Company. What began as a casual, “Would you like to try a sample coffee from this farm in Costa Rica” developed into a connection and relationship with Hacienda Miramonte. Today, the farm focuses on reserving the finest coffees it has to offer for us at Zingerman’s Coffee Company.

During the initial phases of our relationship with Hacienda Miramonte, we sampled and approved microlots which were then featured as a monthly Roaster’s Pick. The coffee was received so well that we opted to purchase another microlot the same year. Again, the reception of the coffee was remark-able. The following year, we bought all but one of the two microlots Hacienda Miramonte had. As our rela-tionship grew and developed, Ricardo, Viviana, and I found ourselves posing the question, “What’s next?”.

In brainstorming special projects, I asked Ricardo if there was a way that he could identify the really great coffees of a harvest among the various lots from his large farm. His reply – “Of course!”. I then proceeded to ask him if he could do this in all lots of his farm. Ricardo further affirmed. He said that this would require being very selective during the peak of the harvest. With some training, he was confident that he had pickers that could select the right cherries. After much deliberation, the special project was conceptu-alized – the Zingerman’s Reserve. Once the notion of the Zingerman’s Reserve became more clear, I trav-eled to the farm in late December when the picking began. I was able to witness first-hand the idea that we had visioned out many months before. I watched Ricardo give very specific information to a few long-standing and trusted families of pickers. The results were amazing. The ripest and most perfect cherries were being picked – a remarkable sight! Never before had I seen such uniformity in the selection and pick-ing process.

While the selection and picking of the cherries cre-ated excitement, this was just the beginning of the journey to discovering phenomenal coffee. The cof-fee must then be processed, dried, rested, and milled before it will make the voyage to Ann Arbor. Ricardo wanted to assure me that these pristine coffees would maintain their isolation from the rest of the harvest. To ensure such, the farm needed to process these cof-fees onsite, versus sending the cherries to an outside processing facility. Unfortunately, this conception proved to be an obstacle – Don Ricardo did not have the budget to purchase an automated depulper to effi-ciently process these coffees. However, the realiza-tion of this hindrance was short-lived. Karen Gordon and David Gordon from Coffee Holding learned of our collaboration and enthusiastically loaned the funds to Hacienda Miramonte to buy the depulper. This automation would allow the farm to very quickly remove the fruit from the cherry in order to start the next phase of processing –drying.

Generally speaking, during the processing stage of coffee, the cherries are handled in one of two ways – the “wet/washed” method, or the “dry/natural” method. The process used for this project, however, was outside of the norm. The “pure honey” process was to be used for the Zingerman’s Reserve. What is the “pure honey” process? This means that once

the coffee is depulped,it is not washed or fer-mented. The mucilage, or remaining fruit, is left on the bean and dried directly onto the parchment. No additional water or fermentation is used. The result of this process lends an amazing sweetness and juiciness to an already lively and cocoa-y coffee. While I was feeling confi-dent that the process was well under my control and that the best cherries were being selected, the true litmus test would be my next visit a few months later. You can feel good about the entire process but at the end of the day, the coffee has to taste great! How would the coffees taste? Would all of this discussion and hard work pay off? There was high anticipation on everyone’s part and although I was highly confi-dent, the chance remained that this experiment could end up being a bust. I later realized that Don Ricardo had the same concerns as I in wondering if all of this hard work Hacienda Miramonte had done would pay off. This mutual feeling of uncertainty was discovered after we had approved the coffee samples. A lot was at stake and all parties were anxious for the final results.

In February I visited Hacienda Miramonte again for the cupping of all the lots that had been picked and set aside for Zingerman’s Coffee Company. In my mind, I had thought a lot about what to expect. On one hand, all of the separate lots could taste great, but be very different. On the other hand, all of the different cof-fees could taste roughly the same. And, of course, the coffee had to taste great in the first place. I had pre-pared myself for many scenarios to play out. When we arrived, the table was set and the cupping began. Nearly every coffee that we cupped tasted delicious. This result was encouraging, exciting, and worth all of the hard work. Hacienda Miramonte committed to working with Zingerman’s Coffee Company to pro-duce Zingerman’s Reserve lots using very specific cri-teria. At the peak of the harvest, the entire farm was inspected. The farm managers chose the seven most experienced families and gave them instructions to pick the best, ripest cherries. Around 18-20 cajuelas (a standard volume of measurement for coffee cher-ries that is about 15 kg) would be picked per day. The largest lot picked measured 180 cajuelas. Each pick of the day was separated by variety, lot, date, altitude, and weight.

The process to achieve the Zingerman’s Reserve cof-fees was to pick the cherries, depulp them, and bring the beans to the patio. The full honey process was adopted which uses no water. The beans then sit on the patio and are later transferred to beds and turned every 20 minutes. No mechanical drying was to be used. The different coffees picked were kept separate while they rested until milling. Zingerman’s Coffee Company provided a moisture meter in order to help dry the coffee to a specific percentage of moisture.

After the specific and selective production process, raw cupping took place. In this stage, coffees were able to be further separated and we at Zingerman’s Coffee Company had first selection to choose the best picked beans.

The result of all of this is what defines the transpar-ency of the supply chain. Getting great coffee does not happen automatically. It takes years of relation-ship development and cooperation. It takes all of the players in the supply chain to be on board and actively involved. It takes alignment of vision and the determination to produce and provide full-flavored, exceptionally great tasting coffee.

Hacienda Miramonte has been in the family for over 100 years! We are buying the best coffee available in Costa Rica from Naranjo, the region Hacienda Miramonte is located in. This area has won the Cup of Excellence award the past four years. This fact is changing Costa Rican coffee buyers’ perspective. We look forward to sharing this great coffee with you as well as continue to develop the root structure of this and other relationships to bring you the very best this world has to offer in coffee!

How the Zingerman’s Reserve Came to Be

Zingerman’s is dedicated to creating full-flavored, traditionally made foods and Cold Brew is no exception. Brewed very slowly over a 16-hour period, this method of extraction and patent pending process makes an exceptionally sweet and rich beverage with hints of chocolate. The cold water brewing process produces a cup with virtually none of the acidity found in a traditional hot coffee. It’s a rich, smooth coffee, has a delicious and complex flavor and a refreshing intensity. It’s perfect for the on-the-go busy morning, or as a great afternoon pick-me-up.

Our Cold Brew is shelf stable for up to one year and free of additives or preservatives of any kind. It is a refreshing and highly caffeinated

beverage that is sure to satisfy time and time again!

JulyPEMBERTINOA fresh take on Dr. Pemberton's classic cola restorative! We've paired a real sugar Coca-Cola with our house-made vanilla, and a double shot of Brazilian Espresso. This vivacious elixir is sure to invigorate your summer.

AugustAFFOGATO The original float! The recipe is simple: One perfect scoop of gelato, drenched in our equally perfect Espresso Blend #1. It's a a small, classic treat with huge flavor!

3723 Plaza Drive, Ann Arbor • 734-929-6060 • zingermanscoffee.com

JulyCAMEROON Oku ValleyA rare coffee from the Oku people of northwestern Cameroon. Complex flo-rals with flavors of herbal spice and black pepper.

AugustCOSTA RICA Hacienda MiramonteWe are entering our third year of work-ing with Don Ricardo and his daugh-ter Viviana of Costa Rica's Hacienda Miramonte. This year's harvest is our favorite yet!

ZINGERMAN'S COFFEE CO.Hacienda Miramonte and

AVAILABLE AT:

Page 15: Zingerman's Newsletter # 255 July-August 2016

ISSUE # 255 JULY-AUGUST 2016­15

We have made some great specialty breads and pastries over the years that developed their own small followings, so we bring them back for a weekend here and there just for fun. If you’re looking for a little adventure, check out this calendar.

New York CheesecakeOur cheesecakes are extra special because they are made with fresh hand-made cream cheese from our neigh-bor Zingerman's Creamery. Experience a thick slice of our New York style cheesecake made with real vanilla bean and a butter pastry crust, best at room temperature. Kick up the flavor and fun at home. Experiment with toppings like fresh in season fruit, lemon curd or raspberry sauce.

Buttermilk CakeA moist yellow cake made with buttermilk from Guernsey Farms Dairy filled with raspberry butter cream and covered in smooth vanilla swiss butter cream. Please enjoy our cakes responsibly, at room temperature, for the best texture and flavor.

Better than San Francisco Sourdough Rounds$6.29­eachGood enough to ship to California. Crisp, crackly crust, moist honeycombed interior and the trade-mark sour tang that will tickle your tongue. It's our go to bread for grilled cheese Wednesday's at the Bakehouse.

Jewish Rye Loaf$6.99­eachThe bread that we're proud to say is featured on Zingerman's Delicatessen's famous reubens for more than two decades. Ours is a traditionally made rye bread with plenty of rye flour (believe it or not, most "rye bread" sold in America has hardly any rye flour), a natu-ral sour starter & lots of time for the dough to develop fla-vor. Saveur magazine called it "America's best rye."

Blueberry Buckle July 1-4

Rosemary Baguettes July 1-3

Somodi Kálacs July 8-10

Green Olive Paesano July 15 & 16

Lemon Poppyseed Coffeecake July 21-24

Cranberry Pecan July 22 & 23

Craquelin July 29-31

Patti's Gimme S'more Tarts August 5-7

Cinn-oh-man August 12-14

Pumpernickel Raisin bread August 12 & 13

Sweet Butter Tea cake August 18-21

Peppered Bacon Farm bread August 19 & 20

Potato Dill bread August 26 & 27

july

/aug

ust

20% ofF whole cakes & slices!

july julyaugust august

Available at Zingerman’sBakehouse, Roadhouse & Delicatessen

In the beginning, Frank and I wanted to share our love of baking and what we had learned in our first decade at the Bakehouse in an educational setting. To get our idea going, we met with two long time Bakehouse bak-ers, Amy Small and Alejandro Ramon, to begin design-ing some classes. We hoped we could de-mystify bak-ing and inspire people to bake at home. We wanted the classes to be informal, fun and rich with learning. We hoped that students would engage with each other and develop a community of baking friends. Lots of hopes!

Amazingly, a lot of what we hoped for has come true, often in ways that we didn’t anticipate (and of course with some bumps and struggles along the way).

First, we were very happy that you all came to class! Early attendance was light but fortunately always moved in a positive direction. We hoped you’d like the classes enough to take several but we never an-ticipated that some of you would come many, many times—10, 20, 50 and even 100! Definitely unexpected and of course appreciated. Many of you were not al-ready Bakehouse customers because you preferred to make your own food rather than buy it. We’ve been thrilled to connect with you! And you come from afar, too: Indiana, Toledo, Grand Rapids and even different countries to our amazement.

Pastry classes have surprisingly been more popular than bread classes and although our early classes were designed as just bread or pastry, it turns out that many of you prefer to mix ‘em together in one class. So we’ve accommodated that. And who knew there’d be a fascination with pizza? We created a pizza class on a whim and now we can’t teach enough of them. Super fun! Fancy Schmancy Cookie mania?? This wasn’t in the plan. No one could have predicted its extreme popularity.

Many of you come to class with a friend—what a great way to spread the joy. Some have traditions of coming on birthdays, for an annual work outing, or for mak-ing holiday cookies together. Some of you like to bake together so much that you prefer to arrange private classes with only your friends and family, again not part of our original vision, but we love it. This amount of connecting we couldn’t have hoped for. And, now we even have nearly 700 of you interacting with us and each other on our BAKE! Community Facebook group. Yes! A community of bakers.

Thank you! Thank you! We appreciate your engage-ment, your suggestions, and your interest in learning. BAKE! has been a tremendously joyful experience for us also. To celebrate, we’re going to hold special ac-tivities this August. Watch for announcements on our website or in our enews. And see you in class!

Amy­EmberlingFrank­Carollo

JOIN US AS WE CELEBRATE 10 YEARS OF INSPIRING

A COMMUNITY OF BAKERS

Free­gift­for­all­students­­attending­in­August.

Drawing­for­a­free­class­each­week­­for­students­attending­in­August.

A­surprise­10%­off­class­registration­day­for­enews­subscribers.

Dorie­Greenspan,­6-time­James­Beard­Award­winning­cookbook­author­joins­us­for­2­baking­demon-strations.

Student­“Open­Mic”­night.­­Your­chance­to­teach!

Sign our online photo yearbook & get all the event details at

www.bakewithzing.com/10years

Alejandro­Ramon,­former­instructor,­returns­for­a­Mexican­food­cooking­demonstration.

Gifts & Events for you in AuguSt 2016BAKE! turns 10 in August 2016! It’s hard to believe

that our little idea has grown up so much.