vitamina · 2018-10-18 · 1. shapiro, s. s., m. seiberg, and c.a. cole, vitamin a and its...
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Copyright © 2018 Environ Skin Care (Pty) Limited. All material and/or images contained herein are subject to copyright and remain the property of Environ Skin Care (Pty) Ltd. This material and/or images may not be reproduced, copied or disseminated in any form or by any means, whether electronic, mechanical or otherwise without permission in writing from Environ Skin Care (Pty) Ltd.
I wanted to make something that would help skin to actually be better, not merely feel or appear better.Dr. Des Fernandes
3VITAMIN A
CONTENTStable of
WHAT ARE MY EXPECTATIONS OF THIS WORKSHOP?
LEARNING OUTCOMES
TOPIC 1: VITAMIN A: AN AMAZING MOLECULE
TOPIC 2: VITAMIN A FOR HEALTHY SKIN
TOPIC 3: THE VITAMIN STEP-UP SYSTEM™
TOPIC 4: RECOMMENDING VITAMIN A WITH CONFIDENCE
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5
6
15
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5VITAMIN A
Welcome to the Environ Education Journey.
By the end of the workshop, you will be able to:
INTRODUCTION
LEARNING OUTCOMES
Identify the different forms of vitamin A
Explain the benefits of vitamin A
Describe the unique selling points of the Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™
Recommend vitamin A with confidence
Step up into Professional
CONSULTATION DEVICESCOOL PEEL®
TECHNOLOGY NEEDLING
Step into RetailBeautiful ScienceBrand Story
SKIN SCIENCE
THE ENVIRON BRAND STORY
FOCUSED CARE
ENVIRON SCIENCE
EVEN MORE CARE
ESSENTIAL CARE
6 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 1: WHAT IS VITAMIN A?
VITAMIN A: AN AMAZING MOLECULETopic 1
• Vitamin A belongs to a family of organic chemicals called Retinoids. Retinoids occur naturally in the human body and are closely linked to the chemistry of vision in the retina of the eye.
• Vitamin A is the most important molecule for healthy-looking skin.
• Everybody, everywhere, is exposed to UV light. This exposure damages the vitamin A naturally found in the skin.
• By absorbing energy from UV light, certain forms of vitamin A act as a natural sunscreen.
• The more vitamin A the skin has, the more protected the skin will be against sun damage.
• While taking vitamin A supplements (at least 5 000 IU per day) may help to replenish the vitamin A skin has lost, it is not nearly as effective as topical application straight onto the areas that are depleted of vitamin A.
• This essential nutrient needs to be replaced on a daily basis to promote healthy-looking skin and minimize the signs of photoaging.
“Vitamin A is the greatest deficiency in the world. Most people are unaware that they suffer from a chronic, localized deficiency of vitamin A. As vitamin A is light sensitive it is destroyed every day in our skin and that is the main reason why we develop photoaging. You could say that the skin is constantly in need of vitamin A.”
Dr. Des Fernandes
7VITAMIN A
1948
1969
1987
1954
1985
Dr. Kligman demonstrates that
Retinoic Acid can be used to treat photoaging and can rejuvenate skin.
1930
Retinoic Acid is popularized for the treatment of acne.
1964
Professor Cluver from South
Africa finds that oral supplementation of vitamin A protects
humans from sunburn.
Retinyl Palmitate is used to treat intrinsic aging of skin.
Scientists first suggest that aging
skin is caused by a vitamin A
deficiency.
Vitamin A as Retinyl Palmitate
and Retinoic Acid is first synthesized.
Dr. Des Fernandes uses the topical application of Retinyl Pamitate for the first time to treat photoaging.
1990
Vitamin A over the years
Environ is founded and starts
manufacturing and distributing the world’s first skin care products containing
vitamin A.
8 LEARNER WORKBOOK
AC
TIV
ITY
SECTION 2: WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT FORMS OF VITAMIN A?
The different forms of vitamin A are listed in the infographic below. Carotenoids is a pre-cursor to the Retinoid form of vitamin A.
Write down the key points of each form of vitamin A that you would use when recommending vitamin A to a client.
Environ does not use these forms
BETA-CAROTENE
AVITAMIN RETINOIDS
(ANIMAL)
RETINYL ACETATE
RETINYL PALMITATE
RETINYL PROPIONATE
ESTER (OIL)
RETINOL
ALCOHOL ACID
RETINOIC ACIDETC
least active active most activemore active
CAROTENOIDS (PLANT)
9VITAMIN A
Beta-carotene
Retinol
Retinoic Acid
Retinyl Propionate, Retinyl Palmitate and Retinyl Acetate
10 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 3: HOW DOES VITAMIN A WORK IN THE SKIN?
DID YOU KNOW... Vitamin A is measured in international units (IU) per gram. The
recommended dose is between 500 IU and 50 000 IU per day.
The cosmetic and edible forms of vitamin A have to be converted into the active, Retinoic Acid form, so that the benefits of vitamin A can be experienced.
THE METABOLIC PATHWAY OF VITAMIN A INSIDE A SKIN CELL
RETINYL PALMITATE,
RETINYL ACETATE, RETINYL
PROPIONATE
RETINOL RETINALDEHYDE RETINOIC ACID
RETINOID REACTIONFew people experience the side-effects of the topical application of vitamin A. This is called a retinoid reaction and is marked by redness of skin, exfoliation (flaking), mild breakouts and very uncomfortable skin.
A retinoid reaction occurs when the skin is too deficient of vitamin A to metabolize it effectively. Exposure to sunlight destroys the vitamin A receptors on the cell membranes.
To make more vitamin A receptors the DNA has to be stimulated by vitamin A.
12 LEARNER WORKBOOK
Myth: Many people believe that vitamin A makes the skin thinner. The fact is that vitamin A will always make skin thicker and healthier-looking. However, when a retinoid reaction occurs the skin does become thinner, but as it is a transient reaction, it does not permanently damage the skin. The thinner skin is reversed when the reaction subsides and the vitamin A receptors are more actively absorbing vitamin A again. The retinoid reaction is a non-specific chemical irritation as there is too much vitamin A outside the skin cells.
Some clients may have previously experienced a reaction to vitamin A. It is therefore important to know how to effectively deal with a retinoid reaction.
A client may say:
The best response to give this client would be:
This describes a transient retinoid reaction (vitamin A reaction) which is normal for a small number of consumers to experience. It simply means that your skin is really depleted of vitamin A and unfortunately the application of vitamin A then irritates the skin. The only way to fix this deficiency is to apply low doses of vitamin A. Start off by applying vitamin A once a day and slowly increase application to twice a day - always making sure that the skin remains comfortable. If the skin becomes uncomfortable again, slow down the applications.
I have used vitamin A before, and did not have a good experience (redness, dryness and irritated skin with breakouts). My skin went from bad to worse and I am scared to try it again.
VITAMIN A and PREGNANCY
It is important to understand the following facts about vitamin A and pregnancy, as this can be a concern for many clients:
• When looking at how vitamin A works in the skin, it is important to know that once vitamin A is absorbed, it is trapped in the skin.
• Humans do not have the enzyme systems to transfer vitamin A from the skin into the bloodstream.
• High levels of vitamin A in the skin cannot cause liver damage, interfere with the development of a foetus or other complications.
• Environ believes that our products containing vitamin A are safe during both pregnancy and lactation. However, the clients must check with their doctors about vitamin A use.
• It is important to remember that during pregnancy, the skin’s response to cosmetics may temporarily be changed and therefore, should the client wish to continue using Environ, we advise the use of lower levels of vitamin A or discontinuing the use of vitamin A if the skin is too sensitive, especially during the first trimester.
• The client should start at a low dose of vitamin A when re-instituting it again, after the first three months of pregnancy.
13VITAMIN A
14 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 4: WHY DID ENVIRON CHOOSE VITAMIN A?
Dr Des Fernandes
“I believe that by combining vitamin A with an effective brigade of antioxidants I was able to produce the
world’s first effective cosmetic cream that could truly be called “skin care”.”
AC
TIV
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Watch the Eureka Moment animation and write down some of the key notes on why Dr. Des Fernandes chose vitamin A as the cornerstone ingredient of Environ.
15VITAMIN A
SECTION 1: WHY IS VITAMIN A IMPORTANT FOR HEALTHY-LOOKING SKIN?
VITAMIN A FOR HEALTHY-LOOKING SKINTopic 2
What are the dangers of regular exposure to sunlight?
What are the dangers of completely avoiding sunlight?
ENVIRON MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO LIVE YOUR LIFE BEAUTIFULLY WITHOUT YOUR SKIN KNOWING IT OR SHOWING IT.
Put back what city life takes out.
Replace the levels of vitamin A in the skin and
be Reborn Beautiful.
You can’t hide from the sun but you can reduce its effects.
16 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 2: WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU HAVE A VITAMIN A DEFICIENCY?
DID YOU KNOW... Restoring vitamin A through diet takes seven days; restoring
vitamin A through topical application takes a few hours.
When there is a vitamin A deficiency in the skin, one or more of the following signs of photoaging may develop:
¥ sun damage
¥ laxity
¥ wrinkles
¥ roughness
¥ irregular pigmentation
¥ sallow skin
¥ elastosis
¥ breakouts
17VITAMIN A
AC
TIV
ITYSpot the vitamin A deficiencies on the
following images.
KNOWLEDGE CHECK:
Indicate Yes or No next to each image.
Skin Image Yes No
19VITAMIN A
SECTION 3: WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING VITAMIN A?
How vitamin A benefits the skin over a period of 6-18 months.
A thickened Stratum Corneum, or outermost layer of the skin. A compromised skin barrier function.
The horny layer is more compact and smooth.Skin barrier function is improved.
The Langerhans cells become more effective.
An influx of Langerhans cells indicates compromised skin immunity.
Melanin is more evenly distributed.
Melanin is unevenly distributed causing an uneven skin tone.
Fibroblasts are unhealthy.
Stratum Spinosum, or spiny layer, is thinner than it should be.
Abnormal cells are normalized.
Effectiveness of fibroblasts is improved, which produces healthier collagen and elastin.
1
3
Before After
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1
22
44
3
20 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH HAS SHOWN:KEY BENEFITS OF VITAMIN A
Known as the skin-normalizing vitamin
Forms the basis of a normal, healthy-looking, and well-functioning skin
Promotes the effects of Collagen & Elastin
Encourages the results of the synthesis of healthy Collagen & Elastin for a firmer-looking skinPromotes
the effects of the Natural Moisturizing Factors
Promotes a healthy-looking barrier function, leaving the skin looking hydrated and refreshed
Helps improve the visible effects of problematic skin conditions
Normalizes sebaceous gland activity, leaving the skin more balanced
Helps support the effects of skin immunity
Supports the immune function of the skin by potentiating the Langerhans cells to help maintain a healthier-looking skin
Helps improve the appearance of pigmentation
Helps stabilize pigmentation distribution, leaving the skin more even-toned in appearance
Promotes a healthy-looking Dermis & Epidermis
Vitamin A is essential for all the layers of the skin and helps to promote a healthy-looking skin
21VITAMIN A
Vitamin A benefits – references:1. Shapiro, S. S., M. Seiberg, and C.A. Cole, Vitamin A and its derivatives in
experimental photocarcinogenesis: preventive effects and relevance to humans. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 2013. 12(4): p.458-63.
2. Sorg, O., et al., Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2005. 4(4): p. 237-44.
3. Watson, R. E., et al., Repair of photoaged dermal matrix by topical application of a cosmetic (antiageing) product. Br J Dermatol, 2008. 158(3): p. 472-7.
4. Reichrath, J., et al., Vitamins as hormones. Hormone and metabolic research = Hormon- und Stoffwechselforschung = Hormones et metabolisme, 2007. 39(2): p.71-84.
5. Katsambas, A.D. and A.C. Katoulis, Topical retinoids in the treatment of aging of the skin. Adv Exp Biol, 1999. 455: p. 477-82.
6. Sorg, O., et al., Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther, 2006. 19(5): p. 289-96.
7. Kang, S., The mechanism of action of topical retinoids. Cutis, 2005. 75(2 Suppl): p. 10-3; discussion13.
8. Saurat, J.H., Skin, sun, and Vitamin A: from aging to cancer. J Dermatol, 2001. 28(11): p.595-8.
9. Berne, B., et al., Decreased retinyl ester concentrations in UV-induced murine squamous cell carcinomas. Acta Derm Venereol, 1989. 69(6): p. 503-8.
10. Amann, P.M., et al., Vitamin A metabolism in benign and malignant melanocytic skin cells: importance of lecithin/Retinol acyltransferase and RPE65. Journal of cellular physiology, 2012. 227(2): p 718-28.
22 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 1: WHAT IS THE ENVIRON VITAMIN STEP-UP SYSTEM™?
THE VITAMIN STEP-UP SYSTEM™
Topic 3
• The Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ was created to address the effects of vitamin A deficiency in all skin and to aid the daily replacement of the benefits of this essential vitamin.
• The Environ philosophy behind the Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ is to start low, go slow. If the skin is prepared with low doses of vitamin A, it is less likely to react to a higher dose.
• As the skin needs to progressively adjust to high doses of vitamin A, the Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ was designed to allow skin to become used to increased levels of vitamin A by stepping up from one level to the next.
• The Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ containing vitamin A, other vitamins and antioxidants, is specifically used in the range of moisturizers that form part of the Essential Care segment.
• Consumers are encouraged to start on the Essential Care segment with the ranges that contain the Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ moisturizers, so that their skin can be Reborn Beautiful.
23VITAMIN A
“Start low,
Move on to step 2 with a medium concentration of vitamin A and other ingredients. Again use 2-3 containers until your skin is comfortable.
Move on to step 3 with a medium to high concentration of vitamin A and other ingredients. Again use 2-3 containers until your skin is comfortable.
Move on to step 4 with a high concentration of vitamin A and other ingredients. Again use 2-3 containers until your skin is comfortable.
Move on to step 5 with the highest concentration of vitamin A legally permissible, and other ingredients.
Start with the moisturizer containing the lowest concentration of vitamin A and other ingredients. Use 2-3 containers until skin is completely comfortable with this level of vitamin A.
Low concentration
Medium concentration
Medium to high concentration
High concentration
Highest concentration
12
34
5
go slow.”
Vitamin A is the cornerstone ingredient in the Environ skin care philosophy and must be replaced daily for skin to stay healthy-looking and resilient. Combined with other essential nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, the long-term enhancement of skin’s appearance becomes clearly visible.
TM
SECTION 2: HOW DO YOU USE THE VITAMIN STEP-UP SYSTEM™?
Steps to applying the Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™:
24 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 1: WHO SHOULD YOU SELL VITAMIN A TO?
RECOMMENDING VITAMIN A WITH CONFIDENCE
Topic 4
AC
TIV
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Compile the client profile of a client suited to use vitamin A.
25VITAMIN A
SECTION 2: WHAT ARE THE UNIQUE SELLING POINTS OF VITAMIN A?
AC
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Complete the mindmap by inserting words you would use when recommending vitamin A to a client.
Dr Des Fernandes
“It is never too early in life to start thinking about skin care. From the day of birth, skin is the canvas of life that
presents our picture to the world.”
When recommending
vitamin A, I would use
these words...
Reverse signs of damage
Promote healthy-
looking skin
Skin REBORN
BEAUTIFUL
Normalize function
26 LEARNER WORKBOOK
SECTION 3: HOW DO YOU MANAGE CLIENT EXPECTATIONS?
AC
TIV
ITY
Does vitamin A thin the skin?Q
Can I use vitamin A skin care while pregnant? Q
Does vitamin A photo-sensitize the skin? Q
I am worried that my skin is aging rapidly. Can I start on the final step?
Q
27VITAMIN A
What happens after I’ve reached the final step?Q
What is the most effective form and dose of vitamin A?
Q
How long before I see a result on my skin’s appearance?
Q
31VITAMIN A
A
A
A
Does vitamin A thin the skin?
Research confirms that vitamin A does not thin the skin. In fact
it actually makes the skin thicker. This misconception most
probably stems from the fact that skin feels smoother when using
vitamin A and therefore it is assumed that the skin is thinner.
Does vitamin A photo-sensitize the skin?
This misconception stems from using the acid/alcohol forms of
vitamin A. These types of vitamin A sensitize the skin to light.
For this reason Environ’s vitamin A moisturizers are enriched
with the Ester form (oil soluble) of vitamin A. The Ester form of
vitamin A does not sensitize the skin to light. Retinyl Palmitate,
the storage form of vitamin A, is scientifically known to absorb
the energy of UV rays and act as a natural sunscreen.
Can I use vitamin A skin care while pregnant?
Environ does not actively promote the use of vitamin A during
pregnancy, especially during the first trimester. After the
first trimester, it may be introduced at low concentrations. It
is important to remember that during pregnancy, the skin’s
response to cosmetics may temporarily be changed and
therefore we advise the use of lower levels of vitamin A /
stopping the use of vitamin A if the skin is sensitive. The client’s
physician should always be consulted about its use.
I am worried that my skin is aging rapidly. Can I start on the final step?
Environ’s Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ was created because
consumers found that starting on medium to high levels of
vitamin A would give them a retinoid reaction. To avoid this, it is
therefore recommended to start on a low level of vitamin A and
gradually increase the concentration of vitamin A by following
the steps of the Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™.
Q
Q
Q
A
Q
32 LEARNER WORKBOOK
A
A
A
What happens after I’ve reached the final step?
Vitamin A will always be an essential nutrient and has to be
replaced daily for skin to appear healthy and youthful. The
final step vitamin A enriched moisturizers contain adequate
amounts of clinically proven concentrations of vitamin A and are
recommended for long-term daily use. It is also recommended
that you complement your skin care journey by having Environ
facial treatments. This will further enhance the appearance of the
skin.
How long before I see a result on the appearance of my skin?
Some consumers may notice changes in the skin’s appearance
within a few days of starting Environ, but in reality more
time is required to notice a real improvement. The standard
recommendation is to use Environ for three to six months before
changes in appearance become noticeable.
What is the most effective form and dose of vitamin A?
It does not depend on the chemical form but rather the
international unit dose. 10 000 IU Retinyl Palmitate = 10 000 IU
Retinyl Propionate = 10 000 IU Retinol. Percentages are deceptive.
We can formulate the above with 2% Retinyl Palmitate, 1 % Retinyl
Propionate and 0.5% Retinol.
Q
Q
Q
NOTE: The concentration of vitamin A used in the moisturizers is not disclosed, as this is the intellectual property of Environ.