Visiting Sicily ----- Staying at Agriturismo Dr. Law Chi Lim As an alternative to staying in standard hotels, visitors to Italy can choose to stay instead in the so called Agriturismo (“ farm house” in English) . Most of the 20,000 such agriturismo in Italy are working farms producing wine or olive oil , while others work may work with grain, cheese , honey , ham ,etc. The quality of such farm-stays vary in quality from simple restored farmhouses on quiet and rural estates to luxurious castles . On a recent visit to Sicily , we decided to try them out . Tenuta San Michele This tenuta ( estate) ,producing wines and olives ,is situated 43 km from the Catania airport . It is located in fact 500 metres up the eastern slope of the famous volcano of Mount Etna ( note 1) on the eastern side of Sicily . This estate has been producing wines since the 1800s , and for the last 25 years , high quality wines ( from local Sicilian grapes like Nerello Mascalese) with the Murgo family label have been exported overseas with favourable reviews. Guests are housed in renovated farm houses (total 12 rooms) which originally housed wine making and storage facilities. The beauty of this estate is that it is surrounded by 26 hectares of vineyards with splendid views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. It is a perfect place to unwind for a few days and use as a base to explore the surrounding areas like hiking the foothills of Mount Etna , or doing the Godfather tour as described in last month’s article. Guests can opt for full or half board with meals served in a terrace restaurant offering a fantastic view of the villages below and the Ionian Sea beyond. The food there is good too, being local Sicilian cuisine using the freshest local ingredients. One must note,

however, this is no 5-star Mandarin Oriental. The rooms are quite basic (or rustic, if you prefer), with no air-conditioning only an overhead fan (and so, probably not a good idea during the height of summer), and the water pressure of the shower is rather weak . So, if you need a 5-star hotel experience , you have to go elsewhere---------- like the Relais Santa Anastasia on the other side of the island up the Madonie mountain ranges , 100km from Palmero ( the capital city of Sicily ). Relais Santa Anastasia This agriturismo in its former life is a 12th century Benedictine abbey. The old stone houses have been lavishly restored into a luxury residence with an ancient atmosphere. It is now a Relais ( Note 2) with 29

rooms of various categories . All rooms have air-conditioning, with refined wooden furnitures and luxurious fabrics giving the rooms a sense of warmth and coziness. As the sun comes down, sitting in the courtyard surrounded by old stone houses with a drink in hand, one is immediately transported back to medieval times. Apart from just relaxing in the Relais and reading a booking in the library or by the pool , there are various activities for guests. A visit to the winery will give up a glimpse as to how organic wines are made. A stone staircase with 200 plus steps

leads to a small hill above the property and one is rewarded with a panoramic view of the sea and the surrounding mountains. Further afield, there are many walks around the area which can last hours. The charming medieval town of Castelboono is only a short drive away and is an excellent place for wandering around for a morning and having lunch ( Note 3). As for dinner , there is no need to go further than the restaurant within the Relais. OK , it is not Michelin-star stuff , but good enough for a hearty meal at reasonable prices. The wines from the estate are especially interesting and good value. I was particular impressed by their syrah and brought a few bottles home with me. Notes 1. Mount Etna is in fact the tallest ( at over 3300 metres) and most active volcano in

Europe and has been continuously active for thousands of years . It periodically spurts out steam and lava , though rarely endangers nearby villages . The last eruption was in fact as recent as 13 July 2014 when flights to the city of Catania was disrupted . In spite of the constant threat of volcanic eruption , farmers in the area continue to stick to their farms because the volcanic soil there is so fertile.

2. Relais et Chateaux is an international organisation that has about 500 members consisting of fine hotels and gourmet restaurants. A certain standard of luxury has to be achieved for an establishment to become a member of this organization.

3. Castelbuono has a very good restaurant called Restaurante Palazzaccio serving no- nonsense authentic Sicilian fare at very reasonable prices. Do not miss their ricotta cheese, beef carpaccio, ,aubergine( egg-plant) cake , pork pie , grilled local cheese , and pasta with wild boar meat source. See reviews on Tripadvisor for location details etc.