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T h e K n o w l e d g e b a s e f o r T o d a y s L o c k s m i t h

The FREE Technical Magazine

Issue 1 February 2016

www.locksmithmag.com

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Bio’s of this months contributors

Martin PinkThe highly respected locksmith Martin Pick has been at the forefront of the development of tools and techniques for picking, decoding and opening many of today’s toughest locks. Martin has been instrumental in the development of the Genuine Lishi Brand and he wrote the definitive guide to opening car locks called the Genuine Lishi Training Kit. Martin is known around the globe for his knowledge of car lock technology and is highly sought after at locksmith exhibitions and training events around the world.

Massimo BianchiMassimo Bianchi is the Keyline Strategic Planner and he works tirelessly to advance the reputation of the Keyline brand worldwide. Massimo is highly respected throughout the industry for his passion for locks and his in depth knowledge of keys, key cloning and cutting machines. This knowledge and passion is built on nearly 350 years of the Bianchi family being at the centre of key development and advancement and they have pioneered many developments in the world of key cutting and car key related technology.

Chris BelcherEveryone in the locksmith world knows and respects Chris Belcher and his huge knowledge and understanding of locks and how to defeat them. Chris’s development of the RPCP tools to overcome British Standard Mortice Locks revolutionised the industry, and his genius is seen in the Multi Gauge Mortice Pick - the production of which bamboozled even the best engineers in the UK. Of course to Chris this is just business as usual and comes from his skill as a Submarine Engineer in the Royal Navy for over 30 years, as Chris says, “you can’t nip to B&Q when something goes wrong and you are 1000 feet below the surface”.

Richard BunnHaving previously worked as an IT professional Richard went on to train with SAVTA (Safe and Vault Technicians) in the USA. On his return to the UK he went in search for as many locksmiths, safe and automotive training courses he possibly could to refine his skills further. Fifteen years of successful locksmithing later, Richard has specialised as an automotive locksmith and completes over a 1000 ‘lost keys’ jobs per year for customers such as the RAC.

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Letter from the editor

Table of Content

Welcome to the very first edition of Cars, Keys and Locks – the technical journal sponsored by Tradelocks. The aim of CKL is to help advance the skills and knowledge of the everyday locksmith, using adept tips and guidance from experts in the industry.

Free to all subscribers, CKL will be published every 2 months and will hold the key to solving all those procedural issues you, the professional, may come across each day. With technical guides, top tips from industry leading specialists and an ‘Ask the Expert’ section, where real locksmiths will be answering very real questions you have. The subscription form at the end of this issue has all the details of how you can sign up to receive the most up-to-date information in the industry.

Our articles are in-depth and filled with actual photographs of the work in hand, giving you the most comprehensive how to guides available.

In this edition we cover VAG vehicles comprehensively with a how to guide from Martin Pink, and the solution to making keys for VAG 2001-2003 vehicles using SuperVAG from Richard Bunn. This reflects the popularity of these cars in the market, with more guides on the new 2015 VAG locks to come in edition 2. We go in depth on the solution to keyless car access, and Keyline take you through the history of Megamos and the challenges they faced and how they got around it. In our ‘On the Bench’ section Chris Belcher also tells you all about the ins and outs of lock bumping.

We have made this journal A5, so it can be carried about easily and used as a reference point as you work. Soon we will be releasing the free binder, where you can store all your copies of CKL. The binder will also have a handy reference index where you can quickly and easily get to the article you need when you need it.

In closing, I hope you enjoy this edition of Cars, Keys and Locks. Please feel free to email any comments you have to info@locksmithmag.com.

A note from the Sponsors:At last, a magazine written by practising industry experts for the benefit of the industry!No waffle, no news, no self-praising, back slapping articles only of interest to the person who wrote them. Instead just solid technical articles - aimed to help the reader understand a particular issue. This is exactly what the industry has wanted for a long time! It is a tribute to the industry giants who have worked tirelessly to master their subject. We hope you find Cars, Keys and Locks useful, and we hope that it becomes the reference library we aimed it to be and an essential part of your day to day work!

Tackling VAG locks › part 1 (generation 1,2 and 3)Ask the expertUnlocked: the solution to keyless car accessThe solution for making keys to vag vehicles 2001 to 2013 (SuperVAG)The Megamos® Crypto EnigmaOn The Bench: The Ins and Outs of Lock Bumping

41618243236

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Tackling VAG Locks › Part 1 (Generation 1,2 and 3)

You can see the face cap of the gen 3 lock is sunken and flush with the body of the lock, the gen 3 lock is also much bigger and a totally different shape to the gen 1 and 2 locks next to it.

This makes it instantly identifiable visually – it is the only one of the VAG HU66 locks that can be simply identified by appearance.

VAG locks follow 2 different wafer configurations:

1) Gen 1 lock follows a 1 up 1 down configuration 2) Gen 2 and 3 locks follow a 2 up 2 down configuration

As we can easily identify the generation 3 lock visually, we only need to understand how to ID the difference between the gen 1 and 2 lock.

To do this we must:

a) Fully insert the 2in1 pick into the lock b) Move the lifter to position 1 and find the springc) Assuming the spring wafer is felt on the bottom gridd) Move the indicator to position 2e) If the spring wafer is also felt on the bottom

grid then it has 2 wafers on same side of lock in a 2 up 2 down format, so it is a gen 2 or 3 lock. If the spring wafer had been felt on the top grid then this would signify a 1 up 1 down configuration – so would be a generation 1 lock

HU66 GEN 1 HU162 VAG 2015 8 CUT

HU66 GEN 2 HU66 GEN 3 HU162 VAG 2015 9 CUT HU162 VAG 2015 10 Cut

Horizontal keyway with a slightly raised facecap that overhangs from the lock body by approximately 3/4mm

VAG 9 CUT LOCK Horizontal keyway with the same profile as the

8 cut but with 3 side cut wafers – 2 cuts on 1 profile and 1 cut on the opposite profile.

NOTE: the raised lip on the lock body around the plug and facecap sits flush to the raised lip.

VAG 2015, 8 CUT

VAG 10 CUT WITH 4 SIDE CUTSThis lock version has 4 side cuts,

2 on the top profile and 2 on the bottom.

NOTE: there is no lock body lip like with the 9 cut. The facecap overhangs from the lock body by 1.25mm – so more profound than the 8 cut,

and it also has a horizontal keyway.

By Martin Pink

VAG (Volkswagen, Audi, Seat, and Skoda) has fast become the most important lock to defeat for many!

Unlike other locks, VAG has 3 very different generations of the HU66 lock, using 2 very different 2in1 pick decoders. It also has 3 differing 2015 plus VAG Locks that use the HU162 keyway – which requires another 3 distinct picks to defeat it.

That said, in this guide we will cover techniques to help you identify the correct lock version and select the correct tool for the job – as well as best practices for using the different tools.

Identifying HU66 Gen 1, 2 and 3 locks. Firstly, let’s look at how to tell the difference between the HU66 generation 1, 2 and 3 locks and how to deal with them:

Here is a picture of all 6 keyways – this will help you identify the difference be-tween the new gen 3 lock and the other locks, visually.

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The need for the new tool was a design alteration in the wafer in late 2010. The manufacturers decided to introduce cuts, grooves or ridges to the inside top and inside bottom of the wafers, so as the single lifter relied on the top inside and bottom inside of the wafer for its decode reading, this hampered the decode function for the single lifter tool on gen 3 VAG locks as shown in pictures below:

The newer twin lifter 2in1 was introducedin 2011 for new VAG locks

So, the gen 3 lock can be identified visually, but to tell the difference between the gen 1 and gen 2 lock you must feel using the tool.

This is an almost instant confirmation of which lock we have in front of us.

Why do we manufacture a single lifter and a twin lifter HU66 2in1 pick and decoder?

2 different Lishi 2in1 picks exist - a single lifter version and a twin lifter version.

1) Single lifter tool: this is the best tool for generation 1 and 2 locks. It will pick the gen 3 lock but on many will struggle to decode it

2) Twin lifter tool: this tool was designed for gen 3 locks to ensure an accurate decode of the lock, it will also pick and decode all gen 1 and 2 locks

HU66 GEN 2 HU66 GEN 3 HU162 VAG 2015 9 CUT HU162 VAG 2015 10 Cut

VAG 10 CUT WITH 4 SIDE CUTSThis lock version has 4 side cuts,

2 on the top profile and 2 on the bottom.

This produced an instant fix and continued defeat for the VAG lock into gen 3 and beyond.

Using the single lifter and twin lifter tools on the 3 lock generations

NOTE: There is a huge difference when using the twin lifter or single lifter tool:

1) The single lifter tool decodes in the opposite direction to which you picked in

2) The twin lifter tool decodes in the same direction as you picked in

This is an important point to remember.

To defeat the decode interference change made by the manufacturer, Lishi simply changed the tool design, so all picking and decoding is carried out using the key snib on the centre of the wafer as shown below:

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Picking open Audi and Seat locks after year 2002

Note to help save time and confusion:

Many Audi and Seat locks from 2002 use a 9 cut lock. The 9th cut is a generic cut, so the same in every lock. All cut to code machines have the facility to cut this 9th cut automatically if selected.This doesn’t pose any problems to the Lishi user when picking and decoding the lock, as the decode will give you the 8 key cuts, and the cut to code machine adds the 9th generic cut for you.

Where this can cause problems is when you just need to pick the car open. The lock will pick open simply, but the locks will not be disengaged!

So you have picked the lock, the plug turns, but the door is not open.

This is common – simply relax tension and start resetting the lock. Turn it back almost to the reset position, and then turn in the opening direction again. Sometimes you need to repeat this 2 or 3 times, but the lock always opens and can be decoded for this key generation still.

NOTE: This is most common on Audi locks.

Useful check and procedure to make with all VAG locks prior to picking

What is common with all VAG locks, especially models equipped with remote keys and smart pod keys is that the lock seizes up as it is not being used. 2 different types of seized lock are commonly seen even on later models and these include:

Seized Wafers

This is probably the most common of the seized lock issues. This issue will present itself in 1 of 2 ways, and in some cases, both can occur. The first sign is you struggle to fully insert the pick into the lock, which is caused by 1 or more wafers sitting seized and out of their conventional position. The other common give away is rock solid or stiff wafers that don’t want to move and return freely and smoothly, when there is no tension applied to the plug.

The solution is simple – flush the lock with plenty of lubricant a few times and rake the wafers with a hand rake or inner groove tool for a short while. The gentle raking and lubricant in most cases will free up the wafers to allow a smooth picking and accurate decoding process to be performed without any issue – and with the added bonus of servicing the lock for the customer!

Seized Plugs

This is less common than seized wafers, but still a common enough situation for the technician to encounter. Here is an example of a job which encountered seized plugs: ‘recently I was called to a 2011 Audi A5 using the pod key and bypass lock. A recovery operator had attended the job and had given up after 90 minutes with no success. The customer had a spare key pod and bypass key but the remote was dead even after changing the battery – the bypass key would not turn the lock at all. The customer had never tried the spare key; the recovery operator had tried to pick the lock but could not get any wafers to bind. After 90 minutes the recovery operator diagnosed that the lock was faulty and the spare key was for a different car – which is not uncommon in cars purchased second

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Picking and decoding the generation 1 lock using the Lishi single lifter 2in1

The generation 1 lock as we know follows a strict 1 up and 1 down wafer configuration.The lock also has a preferred picking sequence, which is dependent upon whether you are picking the lock clockwise or anti clockwise.

The tools blades are all made to a number 4 cut height, so as soon as the tool is inserted into the lock, all number 4 cuts in the lock will be instantly set. So if all cuts were 4s in the lock, the tool would insert and open instantly.

NOTE: I mentioned all 4 positions will be set, but not all lowest cut number 4 wafers will slap tightly when set. Sometimes a stiff movement is felt, which is why we must follow the rule of:

If the wafer moves at all then leave it alone!

Clockwise

If picking in the clockwise direction then the lock follows a picking sequence of:

Pick positions 1, 3, 5, and 7 first in whatever order these decide to bind until fully set. You will know when they are fully set as the plug will seem to turn a few mm – you can also confirm by feeling for a tight slap in each of these positions. Once set we then pick positions 2, 4, 6 and 8 again in which ever order these decide to bind, once set the lock will open.

Anti-clockwise

If we were picking the lock anti clockwise, then we will simply need to reverse the sequence, so we would:

Pick positions 2, 4, 6 and 8 first in which ever order these decide to bind first until all are set. We would then pick positions 1, 3, 5 and 7 in which ever order they decide to bind until the lock is open.

The generation 1 lock responds best to a firm medium tension. On left hand drive vehicles picks anti-clockwise and on UK right hand drive vehicles it picks open clockwise.

hand - he was told to use a locksmith.On arrival to the job and after getting the story from the customer on the recovery operator’s findings, I checked the lock by inserting a Lishi tool and applying tension and then checked for binding wafers. All the wafers moved freely and none were binding to pick. The plug would not move at all - which instantly gave away that the plug was seized. A seized plug would not only stop wafers from binding for picking, but would also stop the correct key from turning the plug. So, the job was simple – I flushed the lock and the plug with lubricant, and then inserted the customer’s spare bypass key, using some force I turned the key and opened the door. I then flushed the lock again until it was moving freely on the key and put the spare key pod in the slot which resynched the remote pod key – so I used this to pop the boot open.’

All plugs should have a slight clockwise and anti-clockwise movement with your tool or key, if not then it’s likely it’s seized. The giveaway signs for a seized plug are: no plug movement or no binding wafers at all when tension is applied with Lishi tools.

The fix is simple:

1) Use plenty of lubricant to flush the lock and the plug.

2) Use the Lishi tool fully inserted or a cut down key blank to apply heavy tension left and right to free the plug

These are simple and common issues yet still catch many out. Although simple they can mean the difference between the success and failure of a job.

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Initially we need to fully insert the tool into the lock, then move the lifter to position 1 and find the spring wafer in this position. We then check the location of the spring wafer in position 2 to ensure it’s a gen 1 lock. If the wafers are in 1 on bottom and 2 on top or vice versa then it’s a gen 1 lock, if the wafers are felt in 1 bottom and 2 bottom, or 1 top and 2 top then it’s a gen 2 lock.

So having confirmed it’s a gen 1 lock, we position the indicator on position 1 and ensuring we have the tool fully inserted, apply a firm medium tension and maintain this tension.

Now move the indicator across positions 1, 3, 5 and 7, tickling each position in turn. We are feeling for a solid binding wafer. REMEMBER IF THE WAFER MOVES AT ALL THEN LEAVE IT ALONE!

Each time we find a solid wafer we need to pick it by lifting or depressing the lifter by 1mm or so. If the solid wafer remains solid we must lift another 1mm until a tight slapping movement is felt, this indicates a set wafer. Once all solid wafers in positions 1, 3, 5 and 7 are set and slapping, you will feel the plug turn a few mm – this confirms all wafers on this side of the lock are picked.Once the plug moves a few mm and each of positions 1, 3, 5 and 7 are slapping, we turn our picking attention to positions 2, 4, 6 and 8. Maintaining our firm medium tension we follow the same process of tickling positions 2, 4, 6 and 8 to find the solid wafers in their binding order – once all solid wafers are picked and set, the lock will open.

Once open, we hold the lock in position via the tension arm and run the decode whilst the lock is in the open position.

With the single lifter tool we take our decode reading in the opposite direction of what we picked in. So in position 1, if we picked the wafer downwards on the bottom half of the grid, we take our decode reading by lifting the lifters indicator up the 1 line, upwards on the top half of grid – so the opposite direction to picking.

We gently push the indicator up or down the position lines 1 to 8 in the opposite direction to which we picked. It is essential we push gently but fully to the stop position. The indicator will stop on one of the horizontal lines numbered 1 to 4. If it rests on a number 1 line then it’s a number 1 key cut, if it comes to rest on a number 3 line then it’s a number 3 cut on the key.

We read each position in turn and write down the reading. When all positions are read, we enter the key cuts into our machine and simply cut the correct key.

Picking the gen 2 lock

As we know the only difference between the gen 1 and gen 2 lock is the wafer configuration being 2 up and 2 down – this changes the preferred picking sequence we must follow.Clockwise direction

In a clockwise direction of picking we must first pick and set positions:1, 5, 8 and 4 in whatever order these bind solid first. Once picked the plug will turn approximately 2mm and each position will slap tightly, we are then ready to pick positions 2, 6, 7 and 3 in whatever order they bind solid until the lock opens.

Anti-clockwise direction

If picking in an anti-clockwise direction we must reverse this. We would begin by picking positions 2, 6, 7 and 3 first until these are set, then picking positions 1, 5, 8 and 4 until the lock opens.

Again, as we are using a single lifter tool, whilst holding the lock in the open position we read each position in turn in the opposite direction to which we picked the lock.

Write down each reading and insertinto your cut to code machine to cut an accurate key.

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Picture how to guide: pick and decode of a gen 2 lock using the single lifter 2in1We begin by inserting the tool fully into the lock and checking the wafer positions to ensure a gen 2 lock configuration of 2 up 2 down:

Begin by fully inserting the tool and checkWe now apply a firm, medium tension and pick positions 1, 5, 8 and 4 in their binding order:

POSITION 4 IS NEXT TO BIND & PICK

POSITION 8 IS 1ST TO BIND & PICK

Once position 4 was picked the plug turned 2mm which confirmed that positions 1, 5, 8 and 4 are all picked and set. This was confirmed by checking each position had a tight slap. As we didn’t need to pick positions 1 and 5 this confirms instantly that positions 1 and 5 are number 4 cuts.We maintain our firm, medium tension and now concentrate on picking positions 2, 6, 7 and 3 in their binding order.

POSITION 7 IS 1ST TO BIND AND PICK

POSITION 3 IS NEXT TO BIND AND PICK

AS POSITION 3 PICKS THE LOCK OPENS INSTANTLY.

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So as again we didn’t need to pick positions 2 and 6, this confirms that these 2 positions are also number 4 cuts, as the tool already presets the number 4 cuts.

So having written down each reading, this decode gives us a key from bow to tip which is from positions 1 at bowto 8 at tip of: 44224431

We have 3 choices for cutting the key: we can either select insert the cuts on our cut to code machine and insert the above cuts and cut the key, or we can use software like InstaCode and select the car make model and year. Select HU66 key, click on find bitting and enter our cuts above as per diagram.

Click next and InstaCode will give you the manufacturer’s key code.

You will see it offers us the manufacturer’s codes of 3241 or 03241. We can now select insert the code, choose the correct manufacturer and key type, enter this code and cut the correct key.

Our final choice is to cut the key manually by using depth and space keys.

So holding the lock in this open position we begin the decode process, knowing already that positions 1, 2, 5 and 6 are all number 4 cuts.

We read each position in the opposite direction to that which we picked in:

POSITION 1 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 2 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 3 READS AS A NO 2 CUT

POSITION 4 READS AS A NO 2 CUT

POSITION 5 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 6 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 7 READS AS A NO 3 CUT

POSITION 8 READS AS A NO 1 CUT

11POSITION 5 IS 1ST TO BIND & PICK

POSITION 4 IS THE NEXT TO BIND & PICK

Twin Lifter HU66 2in1 tool on VAG generation 3 lock

We now know that the twin lifter tool will work well on all generations of VAG lock, but the generation 3 lock is the lock it was designed for!

We need to remember that when using a twin lifter tool we must decode the lock in the same direction as we picked it in. So, if we picked up then we must decode up too.You will notice that 1 lifter picks the top grid and the other lifter picks the bottom grid, so each grid has its own lifter. Other than

Picture how to guide: picking and decoding VAG gen 3 lock

As we are picking this lock in the clockwise direction we follow the subsequent picking sequence of picking positions 1,5, 8 and 4 first, then once set and the plug is felt to move a few mm we will pick positions 2, 6, 7 and 3 until open.We begin by ensuring both lifters are central on the grid and fully insert the tool into the gen 3 lock. Once fully inserted we apply a light to medium tension via the tension arm in a clockwise direction and proceed to tickle positions 1, 5, 8 and 4 to find the solid binding wafers.

As position 4 is picked the plug moved a few mm. This confirms that positions 1, 5, 8 and 4 are all picked and set and suggests, as we didn’t need to pick them, that positions 1 and 8 are number 4 cuts - further confirmed when I checked each position and they were all slapping tightly.

this the process is almost identical to pick and decode the lock with no nasty surprises, just follow the rules in this guide to simplify the picking process. We know already that the new generation 3 lock follows the same wafer configuration as the gen 2 lock. So if picking in the clockwise direction we follow the same picking sequence as with the gen 2 lock and in an anti-clockwise direction picking positions 1584 until set, then picking positions 2673 until the lock opens.

NOTE: Many of these gen 3 locks also have a light clutch. It is advised to use a light to medium tension as twin lifter tools respond best to this and do not respond well to a heavy hand.

So we now concentrate on picking positions 2, 6, 7 and 3.

As soon as position 2 is picked the lock opened – which again suggests that positions 6, 7 and 3 are all number 4 cuts, as these did not need picking. So prior to decoding we already know that this key has a number 4 cut in positions 1, 3, 6, 7 and 8.

We decode in the same direction as we pick, so whilst holding the lock in the picked open position we decode each position and write this down:

POSITION 2 IS 1ST TO BIND AND PICK

VAG GEN 3 LOCK

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POSITION 3 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 4 READS AS A NO 1 CUT

POSITION 5 READS AS A NO 2 CUT

POSITION 6 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 7 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 8 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

So we have read a key from bow to tip of 42412444. Simply cut your accurate key.

The VAG 2015 keyways: How to ID them and the main differences between them For ID purposes, the first thing to note is that the VAG 2015 locks have a much smaller horizontal keyway rather than the traditional larger HU66 vertical keyway. To help identify the 8 cut lock version it is worth noting that the plug protrudes by 3/4mm from the locks body as well as there being a slightly recessed area around the protruding plug.

The key is a straight 8 conventional cut, with no side mounted wafers, so no side cuts cut into the profile of the key. The correct tool for this lock is the VAG 2015 8 cut pick.

Major difference of the 9 and 10 cut locks

When looking at the new 2015 locks, the major difference between the 8 cut 2015 lock and the 9 and 10 cut 2015 locks is the introduction of side mounted wafers that interact with side cuts on the top and bottom profile of the key. The 9 cut lock uses 3 side mounted wafers in positions 1 to 3 on the key with 2 cuts on 1 profile and 1 cut on the opposite profile of the key. So, has 3 side mounted wafers in positions 1 to 3 and 6 conventional wafers in positions 4 to 9. The 10 cut lock uses 4 side mounted wafers in the first 4 positions, 2 on the top profile and 2 on the bottom profile, so has 4 side mounted wafers in positions 1 to 4 and 6 conventional cuts in positions 5 to 10.

VAG 2015

8 CUT

VAG 8 CUT KEY BLADE WITH NO SIDE CUTS SO USES A STRAIGHT 8 CONVENTIONAL KEY CUTS.

SIDE CUT WAFERS

CONVENTIONAL CUT WAFERS

HORIZONTAL KEYWAY, WITH A SLIGHTLY RAISED FACE CAP THAT PROTUDES FROM LOCK BODY APPROX 3/4MM.

POSITION 1 READS AS A NO 4 CUT

POSITION 2 READS AS A NO 2 CUT

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The 9 cut lock as you can see also uses the smaller vertical keyway and is on the same blade section as the 8 cut lock. You can see the side profile cuts are on the bottom of the keys profile. For ID purposes you will see that unlike the 8 cut lock there is no recess around the plug, instead there is a raised lip, with the plug sitting flush to the raised lip, making the 9 cut ID simpler.

This key uses 3 side cuts in positions 1 to 3 and 6 conventional cuts in positions 4 to 9. The side cuts will be 2 on 1 profile and 1 on the opposite profile. The correct tool to use is the Genuine Lishi 9 cut tool.

The VAG 2015, 10 cut lock uses 4 side mounted wafers in the first 4 positions with 2 side cuts on the top profile of the key and 2 side cuts in the bottom profile of the key. So, positions 1 to 4 have side mounted wafers and side cuts on the key and positions 5 to 10 have 6 conventional wafers and cuts on the key. Another crucial difference of the 10 cut lock and key is that it’s the reverse profile of the 9 cut key.

VAG 9 CUTLOCK

VAG 10 CUT

WITH 4 SIDE CUT

For purposes of ID and to help with this, you will notice it has the same smaller horizontal keyway as with the rest of the 2015 keyways. Like the 8 cut it has the recess around the plug with the main difference being that the plug protrudes by 1.25mm, so is more profound.

Horizontal keyway with the same profile as the 8 cut but with 3 side cut wafers – 2 cuts on 1 profile and 1 cut on

the opposite profile.Note: the raised lip on the lock body around the plug and

facecap sits flush to the raised lip.

Vag 9 cut key: you can see the thick part of the profile is the same as the 8 cut keyblade. The noticeable

difference being the side profile key cuts, cut onto it to interact with the side mounted wafers within the first 3

positions of the lock.

Vag 10 cut key: this has 4 side cuts in the profiles – 2 on the top and 2 cuts on the opposite bottom

profile. You will also notice the cuts are on the opposite side of the keys profile, showing that

the 10 cut key is a reverse profile to the 8 and 9 cut keys.

This lock version has 4 side cuts, 2 on the top profile and 2 on the bottom profile

For id purposes, Note: no lock body lip as 9 cut, face cap protrudes from lock

body by 1.25Mm so more profound than 8 Cut and also has horizontal keyway.

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Why is it necessary to have 3 new tools for the VAG 2015 Locks rather than just 1 tool for all? This is a common question and one that is easily answered:

1) The 8 cut tool has no side cuts so needs a tool with 8 conventional cuts only.

2) The 9 cut tool although it has the same blade profile as the 8 cut, it has different spacing as well as 3 side cuts.

3) The 10 cut tool is on a completely different section with reversed profile.

The reason you can’t have a 10 cut tool that will also do the 9 cut lock is down to the reverse profile. They are opposite sections, so they won’t insert into each other’s lock. Due to the reverse profile, the 9 cut tool will not fully insert into the 10 cut lock and vice versa which is another point of correct ID for users. The profile differences can be clearly seen in the image to the right:

Check out the next issue of Cars, Keys and Locks to find Part 2 of the VAG Guide, INCLUDING:

Step by step photo guides and processes for picking the new VAG 2015 Lock series, focusing on the VAG 2015, 8 cut, 9 cut and 10 cut lock.

So make sure you look out for your FREE copy!

NEWVAG 2015

KEY BLADES

8 CUT

Left profile

Left profile

Rightprofile

9 CUT 10 CUT

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NVLISHI3-1HU66 NVLISHI3-1HU66(GEN3)

ONLY£39.99

NVLISHI-PICKVAG2015-9CUT

NVLISHI-PICKVAG2015-10CUT

NVLISHI-PICKVAG2015-8CUT

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I had a customer come into the shop for a clone key, so I attempted to use the 884 mini for the job. The car was a 2003 Audi A3. The mini identified the chip as an MG10 and all seemed to be going fine. I sniffed data from carvia the 8 turns of the ignition and the mini started calculating, but after a short time the process gave a failed message. Thinking I had done something wrong, I checked the process and repeated it. I sniffed data again and once more the process failed, so I gave up and returned the original key to owner. The owner came straight back as his car wouldn’t start. I checked and he was right, the original key would no longer start the car and the dashboard just said SAFE. The customer has recovery membership so I tried his recovery firm who also couldn’t get this going? I need to fix this, is there anything I can do or must it go to the dealer?

Are you a locksmith unable to get a job done? Got a burning question, but not sure who to ask for advice on the latest products and tools? World leading auto locksmith professional Martin Pink is here to help! Each issue he will be answering some of your auto locksmithing questions, so if you’re in need of expert advice, get in touch!

Your attempted job was on a 2003 Audi A3, which was the first to use the Can Chip with the precoded CS. Currently the 884 cannot tell the difference between a T6 ID48 chip and a Can chip, it will read both as MG10 and go through the cloning process. But if it is a Can chip system the procedure will give a fail message at the end. This is currently being addressed by Keyline.

Here’s how to check if you have a Can system or a Non-Can system. A good indicator is looking at the lightson the dashboard when you turn the ignition on. Vehicles with the Non-Can T6 ID48 system that can be cloned will have an immobiliser light.

If it does, it is likely that it will clone fine with the Keyline TKM head.The Can systems don’t use this immobiliser light generally, they use the term ‘SAFE’ instead on the dashboard if a programmed key is inserted.

ASK THE EXPERT ask@locksmithmag.com

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No it’s not a new lock , the lock is still the same VA2 lock with the same depth and spacing, although the manufacturers have made a significant change to this later lock that prevents the older VA2 2in1 from fully locating. They haven’t changed the lock, but they have changed the face-caps keyway opening, making it smaller and narrower, which causes the old 2in1 tool to stop on the shoulder part way in which it snags on the face cap and wont fully locate in the lock. This means you can’t pick up all of the wafers.

The solution is to buy the 3in1 VA2 tool which has a much lower shoulder and will fully insert in this lock. Although this doesn’t help you when at a job, there is a modification you can make to the existing 2in1 so you can complete the job if stuck.

Simply file the 1st shoulder down until it is the same size as the blade, so in effect removing this first shoulder area and extending the blade length. This will then enter this lock and pick it spot on for you.

When filing only use a hand file as a grinder heats up to much and can damage the tools laser welds causing the tool to fall apart.

I attended a job on a late model 2010 Peugeot Partner van with its keys locked inside. My trusty VA2 tool wouldn’t pick this and I only felt 5 of the 6 wafers. I’ve used my pick many times and never had an issue. Is it a different lock on the later models and is there a tool for it?

This indicates a Can system and the majority of cars will not have an immobiliser light symbol at all. The VIN number will also confirm whether a vehicle is using a Can or Non-Can system. Look at digits 7 and 8 in the VIN number, as per example VW Golf VIN here: WVWZZZ1KZ7W193867. This tells you that the car has a 1K chassis, which is a new Can chip model that cannot be cloned yet. The 10th digit of the VIN confirms the tear of manufacture, which in this case is a 7 which means it’s a 2007 model. The following VIN number:WVWZZZ1JZ3B062197 is for a Non-Can model of VW golf that has a standard T6 ID48 chip that can be cloned. In this case the digits in positions 7 and 8 are 1J confirming that this is a MK4 1J chassis vehicle which can be cloned, digit 10 is a 3 which confirms it was built in 2003.

FOR AN AUDI A3, A T6 ID48 WILL HAVE 8L IN DIGITS 7 AND 8 OF VIN AND IS CLONEABLE. FOR AN AUDI A3 USING A CANBUS T25 CHIP, IT WILL HAVE 8P IN DIGITS 7 AND 8 OF VIN WHICH CONFIRMS IT’S A CAN SYSTEM AND SO CANNOT CURRENTLY BE CLONED.

The issue of the vehicle immobilising and failing to start after cloning has failed.

In this case you have switched the ignition on and off 16 times with an unprogrammed key, the car thought this to be a theft attempt and immobilised itself. You must simply perform a soft reset procedure. Turn on the ignition to position 2 where the dash lights up and leave the ignition switched on with the original key for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes switch off and the key will now work fine.

18

Unlocked: The Solution to

Keyless Car Access

Tradelocks introduce the extension product to the KD900 that will not only increase the services of the auto locksmith but the profits too!

CarKeysOnYourPhone App will allow you to offer your customers an additional service - the ability to unlock their own car using just their smartphone – that is once it has been installed by the professional.

It works by generating a remote using the KD900 and a KD entry dongle, and then pairing it to the mobile smartphone app via Bluetooth. An auto locksmith must install the OBD entry into the car either manually or diagnostically for the system to work.

How to Install the CarKeysOnYourPhone App

Manual installation:

Take for example a vehicle such as the Jaguar Excite. You have been called out to a job where your customer has locked their car keys inside their vehicle and needs them retrieving. Firstly you would pick open the vehicle using the Lishi tibbe pick.

The first stage is to get into the vehicle and retrieve the car keys, as you would on any job. But here is an opportunity to offer your customer another service, the installation of the CarKeysOnYourPhone App which can be installed during your job:

Take the KD entry dongle and install the software for the vehicle in question, in this case the Jaguar vehicle – to do this use the KD900.

So, now you must take the KD entry device and plug it in using the KD900 lead. Treat it simply as if you were creating a standard Jaguar remote.

19

So to generate the remote – Excite Jag – 433MH for the UK – Ok – Make remoteAs we all know KD900’s are very simple to use - so now your KD entry device is the equivalent of a Jaguar remote.

The next stage is to manually programme it into the vehicle and pair it to your smartphone.

Do your research and find out where the OBD port is in the car. In the Jaguar it is just by the accelerator pedal. Take the back off the OBD entry product and you’ll be able to see the LED light up when you plug it into the OBD port - meaning you’ve successfully got power.

Search for ‘KD Entry’ on iTunes or Google Play Store

After plugging it into the OBD, go into Bluetooth settings on your smartphone and search for the device. You will see the KD entry that you want to connect to. The default password is always 6 zeros, so ‘000000.’ Now you can see that the Bluetooth device has paired with your phone.

Treat the OBD dongle as if it was a normal remote key and programme that remote key into your vehicle.

With jaguar vehicles of this year all you have to do is programme the remote in manually.

4 turns of the key in the ignition until you hear a sound – press the lock button on your smartphone – you’ll be able to hear from the vehicle that is has been synchronized as if it was a normal remote.

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Now test it for real. Lock the car and unlock using just the smartphone The car should unlock.

So next time your customer locks their key inside their vehicle, if you have fitted the automatic entry using the mobile phone app, they can press unlock using their phone and they can get back into their vehicle and get their keys back out independently.

Diagnostic Installation:Take for example the 2006 VW Golf, which will require diagnostic installation of the remote into the vehicle.

Here is how it’s done:

If you have a 2006 VW Golf with a key locked in the vehicle, for example that has been left in the ignition, you would first pick the lock open to get the key out using a Genuine Lishi HU66 pick.

With the key now safely out of the vehicle we can now install the system, allowing the customer to open their car should this happen again, using their smartphone.

Firstly, you must install the VW specific remote software into the chip set, again using the KD900. Take the back of your KD entry to get into the programming port and plug it into your KD900. Switch it on and select the appropriate VW remote. Like with the manual installation, treat it as if it was any other KD remote you are going to create.

Scroll up as well as down to find VW. To find the part number do some research or look at the customer’s existing remote, if they have got one - it’s a 1K0959753GVW in this case. You can then put your KD900 away and get ready to install your KD entry.

Unlike the manual Jaguar you would normally programme a remote into this Golf vehicle using diagnostics equipment. So, in addition to your KD entry and your KD900 you need your Y splitter cable – one part will go to your diagnostics cable and one part will go to your OBD entry kit.

21

The main plug is obviously being put into the OBD port itself - now your splitter cable has been successfully installed into your OBD port - put the OBD entry in one side of your splitter cable (you will be able to see it successfully powering it up and ready to pair to your smartphone). Now install your diagnostics system into the other side of the splitter cable.

Before we start diagnostically programming make sure the OBD entry is paired to the smartphone, using the same steps with the manual installation.

Now the remote has been paired successfully, you can start to diagnostically programme it into the vehicle, treating it as a normal remote BUT with the buttons of the remote on the keypad of smartphone.

You can choose your favourite diagnostics software; in this case I’ve used Abritas to programme in the remote.

When you’ve finished, remove the splitter cable – take the OBD entry off and put the cover cap back on it and fit the OBD entry to the OBD on its own.

You can see on the phone if it’s already been paired. Put in the default password and it should be successfully paired. As the remote has already been programmed it should be possible to use this on the smartphone.

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Now test it out! So what’s the benefit for the locksmith? Your customers don’t want a repeat of the situation, and the hassle of having to call out a locksmith if they lock their keys in their car again. So, chances are they would snap your hand off at the opportunity to solve the problem themselves - especially in the time of gadgets and gizmos!

Car lovers and the technology savvy will love this and it will fast become a must have item – making offering this particular service very profitable for you!

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23

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24

THE SOLUTION FOR MAKING KEYS to VAG vehicles 2001 to 2013 With so much equipment available on the market today it’s difficult to know what to buy, why you should buy it and more importantly how to then use it effectively. In the world of automotive locksmithing there are many options when it comes to creating transponder keys to a wide range of VAG vehicles. In an ideal world you would purchase one piece of diagnostic equipment which would enable you to then create and program 99% of all keys. In a lost key scenario and for every car on the market both past, present and future. As we all know that doesn’t exist and no doubt never will.

So what are the current opportunities available to the automotive locksmiths for programming VAG vehicles today?Well luckily, due to VAGs volume and therefore popularity on the road, all diagnostic equipment manufacturers seem to have a solution for some part of the VAG group. There are solutions from Advanced Diagnostics, Abrites, Zed Full, Vag Com, and many more, not to mention the dealer OEM solution. All diagnostic equipment manufacturers (as a rule of thumb) have ‘partial’ solutions for Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda, but do you know the limitations which you are currently faced with and by each equipment manufacturer?In brief transponders used in these vehicles are represented by the popular ID48 Megamos package, this same device when coded correctly can go from a regular ID48

transponder, to a canbus vehicle specific transponder (i.e. ID48 VW Canbus, ID48 SKODA Canbus, ID 48 AUDI Canbus, and ID48 SEAT Canbus). From approximately 2004 we were introduced to these ID48s turning into canbus transponders and the need to write 7 bytes of component security to the transponder for the vehicle to recognise the transponder key prior to programming. From 2009 onwards these same ID48 transponders increased their security by using all the crypto key pages (pages 4 to 9) on the transponder and 12 bytes of component security had then become a requirement.

So understanding what the vehicle needs you to do in order to create your pre-coded transponder is an important part of your decision making process. Ideally you would plug in your OEM dealer tool, link to the internet (as you have purchased your VAG license) and let the server based at Volkswagen do everything for you. This is however an expensive solution, a hard approval to attain, and the needfor internet is imperative.

Up until 2009 for Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Skoda you could create and program new keys in a lost keys scenario relatively easily. Most diagnostic equipment as previously mentioned will pull the security pin code, and the 7 bytes of component security needed for precoding and final coding into the vehicle. 2009 onwards

by Richard Bunn

25

however there is a problem! Unfortunately to program these vehicles after 2009 you will need a working key in order to program an additional key, so if all keys are lost by the customer you have not got a simple OBD solution. The technical reason for this is the VAG vehicles security changed to a VDO NEC processor in the clocks (or commonly known as the instrument cluster, I use both of these terms interchangeably) and unless the cluster is activated into boot mode or service mode (this happens automatically if you have a working key) the vehicle will not allow any more keys to be programmed.

So when all keys are lost for VAG vehicles dated 2009 onwards what can you do?

Only some of the equipment from manufacturers will have a solution which involves taking out the clocks (this is very easy to do and usually involves unscrewing 2 or 3 torx screws), and removing the clocks from the vehicle. Then these same equipment manufacturers need you to remove an EEPROM from the instrument cluster PCB, write a new file to the EEPROM, re-solder the EEPROM and then with the instrument cluster in ‘service mode’ you can then program new keys. The solution I prefer and will pass on to you involves no removing of EEPROMS, involves no soldering irons, and involves no writing back to EEPROMS, plus its quicker (approximately 50% less time to complete) and definitively safer for you as an automotive locksmith.

So using SuperVAG - let’s run through a real working example and see what actions and procedures are necessary to perform this job:

Job: Create new keys to the vehicle (non available).Vehicle: Seat Ibiza 2012Problem: All keys lost (bought as a Category D by the customer).

by Richard Bunn

Step 1: Remove the instrument cluster from the vehicle.

Detach the surrounding trim, remove a total of 3 x torx screws in this case, and detach the loom with the blue connector from the rear of the clocks – as shown below:

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Step 2: Remove the back of the instrument cluster (4 x torx screws).

Step 3: With the clocks open on your bench you should now have SuperVAG ready to plug in; your Tango for transponder writing and a key to program.

Step 4: Connect SuperVAG interface to thelaptop and open the application software. Connect the SVG ‘bespoke’ cable that connects to the back of the instrument cluster.

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Step 5: Now power up your SuperVAG connection and start following the onscreen instructions included in the SuperVAG software.

Step 6: Now your connected to the clocks via SuperVAG cable you can read the transponder data off the processor. The first stage in the software is to press the icon as highlighted.

Step 7: As the microprocessor is secure you will be unable to initially read the data successfully. The application software will ask if you have the SVG cable connected (which you have), and then it will ask you during this process: have you researched the clocks that you are working on? The reason is that you will be prompted, during the process, to touch a specific contact point or hole on the PCB with the attached POGO pin.

Step 8: Downloading the online pdf from the SuperVAG website you then need to match the PCB you have from the vehicle to the research pdf document. The below picture shows the PCB on the clocks that we have from the vehicle totally matches the PCB shown below. It also indicates where the POGO pin needs to be inserted when prompted by the SuperVAG software.

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Step 9: Now following the on screen prompts: the software will ask you to switch off the power to the clocks, insert the POGO pin and then power it back up (you MUST read the on screen instructions and do NOT jump aheadin the process).

Step 10: All the lights that were lit up on the clocks will now have gone out except for the parking break – as described below. If this is not the case you may need to repeat the procedure a second time (due to bad placement of the POGO pin etc.).

Step 11: When the clocks have gone into service mode SuperVAG will then start extracting all the data from the NEC processor. Initially it will give you the pincode, as shown.

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Step 12: Then SuperVAG will create a bin file for that processor and will ask you where you wish to save the file to (I always save it to the desktop for easy visual access).

Step 13: Now you have successfully saved the file. Leave the SuperVAG application open and open up Tango. Select the keymaker for, in this case, Seat. You will see that there is a SuperVAG option for this vehicle inside the TANGO software:

Step 14: Now press the F (for file) car icon and you then pass the SuperVAG bin file to TANGO that you had saved earlier. The TANGO software will then tell you how many keys are in the system. Then select an unused slot, in this case key number 3. Insert your transponder (ID48 Megamos – it doesn’t need to have been converted to canbus, this will be done automatically) into TANGO, press the W (write button) and then select the Megamos-48 transponder radio button when prompted.

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Step 15: Now you have written to the transponderyou now need to write the transponder data back to the clocks. TANGO will now automatically create a new bin file for you to write back to the locks using SuperVAG. Again save this file to your desktop and name this new file with a meaningful name so you remember what you have done. In this case we have named it ‘add key back to cluster’ bin file.

Step 16: Finally go back to SuperVAG application and click on the icon below (writing data to the transponder). Once pressed the SuperVAG application will ask for the file you just created with TANGO. Once you have selected that file SuperVAG will write the data back to the NEC processor on the PCB of the cluster and the process is now complete.

Step 17: Now ensure before unplugging the SuperVAG loom that you turn off the power. Then fit the back of the cover back onto the clocks with the Torx screws, and carefully fit the complete clocks back into the vehicle.

Well done on your first successful SuperVAG dash solution – you have now created new transponder keys, without EEPROM reading, without soldering and desoldering, and without having to pay for a dealer key.

With technology continually changing, the next challenge is the MQB systems on the 2013 to present day vehicles within the VAG range. As of yet there are still no solutions for lost keys on aftermarket equipment on Golf mark VII, but with inventors such as Martin Richter from SuperVAG - it may just be a matter of time.

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SuperVAG is now available

at Tradelocks

JUST £785

+ VAT

32

THE MEGAMOS® CRYPTO ENIGMAOur passion for keys has always travelled at the same speed as our passion for cars. My father, Camillo, cultivated this passion over the years and then it was passed to me.

Every car model has its own evolutionary story – from the first drawings to the moment it comes out from its assembly line – and with the car there comes its key.

We have seen how the key has evolved, parallel to the development of car models produced worldwide – and we studied every aspect and innovation. We have seen that there has been unstoppable technological change and constant advancement - not only to the car key, but to every aspect of the vehicle.

Our knowledge of keys, passed from father to son since 1770 to present day, has allowed us to look at the car with a careful and critical eye. However, knowledge alone is sometimes not enough and when faced with a technological challenge like this one, the most important thing is curiosity and perseverance:

By Massimo Bianchi – Keyline Strategic Planner

The beginningThe desire to understand more and constantly make improvements has pushed us to achieve many goals; fromthe duplication of keys to their head cloning - made by circuits and codes which at first glance look unfathomable.

The first important result we had was to make Crypto transponder cloning possible.

The transponder type was generally believed to be most difficult to decipher, due to its complexity. However, with our knowledge of the automotive world, more precisely our knowledge of car technology and every key that allows ignition, we were able to do what was thought to be impossible - cloning the Texas® and Philips® Crypto.

The challenge with transponder cloning was delivered and, in part, won. But we hadn’t finished there, there was still a piece missing - Megamos® Crypto transponder cloning.

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The biggest challengeFor years, the development of this technology has been a prestigious achievement as it faced the biggest challenge in cloning car keys with a transponder.

Every company that worked in the key business had been working on this for a long time - without any results. The market had been waiting anxiously for someone to announce that they had succeeded and cloned this complex system – it was the key that was still missing.

And Keyline, as one of the industry’s biggest and oldest companies decided to take on this challenge. There is a quote by Lao Tzu that says: A journey of thousand miles begins always with the first step –and so it was for Keyline.

Finding the solution to the most complex enigma in the transponder world lasted for more than three years and led us to all continents - from Europe to Asia, America to Oceania.

The teams working in Europe, America and Asia, coordinated by our company in Italy made progress and periodically presented new solutions - always more refined and more efficient. The closer we got to the solution the greater commitment and dedication we put into the project.

Incessant research and analysis, always supported with several tests made by several groups of technicians and experts of the automotive world, became a routine. Within the 24 hours of a day we gathered and exchanged information, day after day, from every corner of the world.

The code complexity meant a sophisticated computer center with extensive use of cloud computing technology was needed. In addition, it was necessary to create an accessible system to manage all requests for calculation and cloning dynamically. Even now we are extremely proud to be the only ones to set up a system capable of carrying out these operations.

Another element we are constantly improving is the memory management of our servers. Today they are not only capable of recovering a key cloned weeks before, but they can also attach the key correctly as it is entered with the previously collected sniffs, combined with the original key.

We were sure the next thing to be deciphered was the enigma of transponder cloning and with the first crack of a key with transponder Megamos® Crypto being fully executed - the finish line was in sight.

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Test and test againIt is difficult to say with certainty how many tests have been performed, but it must be noted that no brand of car manufacturers has been left out - everyone was tested.Our engineering worked to make the most complex key “easy and simple” to clone. It was necessary to allow our super computers to communicate in a simple and clear way with anyone who wanted to clone a key transponder Megamos®. So we released the software that allows your PC, smart-phone or tablet to communicate with your device - both the 884 Decryptor Ultegra and 884 Decryptor Mini.

The first concrete result arrived with the worldwide presentation of the TKM Starter Kit, the update that allows you to clone keys with transponders Megamos® Crypto mainly used by VAG models produced between 1998 and 2003. The TKM Starter Kit was a first major breakthrough in the world of cloning and opened the door to the only and most complete solution available on the market - TKM Xtreme kit. The Xtreme allows you to clone keys with transponders Megamos Crypto® of car models produced until 2014.

TKM Xtreme made it possible to clone over 200 car keys, the most complex in the world.

APPENDIX- How to: TKM XtremeWatchword: simplicity

At no stage of the cloning is any interaction from the user with the software expected. The only actions required are the insertion and extraction of the original key and the electronic head, TKM from its 884, as well as the sniffs on board of the vehicle.

One of the major features of cloning any key- Philips®, Texas® or Megamos® with Keyline tools is the complete absence of user intervention. In fact, you simply follow the instructions that appear on the screen of your PC or smartphone/ tablet to successfully clone a key.

The activation of the cloning tool is also extremely simple as well as very safe:

To activate your cloning tool (884 Decryptor Ultegra/884 Decryptor Mini) just enter the electronic head TKM, found in the kit provided to you. The cloning tool starts to communicate with the cloud server that verifies the correctness of the application and is enabled to clone the transponder Megamos® Crypto. It is an option designed for the customer who needs reassurance that every operation carried out by Keyline’s equipment, including the most complex,is always safe to do.

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The Cloning processThe procedures that guide the cloning process are indicated in detail by the Software or by the App ‘Keyline Cloning Tool’ that act as assistants during the whole cloning process of the key. In fact, we paid particular attention to make sure it was easy to use, using our experiences with the 884 Decryptor Ultegra and its straightforwardness.

First you have to prepare the key copy following the standard procedures: cutting the metal stem of the specific car model of the key you want to duplicate.

The original key is inserted in the 884 and the cloning process starts. The system will immediately recognise the type of transponder to be cloned and begins to provide indications about what actions need to be carried out, which is alternating the original key with the electronic head to be copied.

CONNECTING THE 884 DECRYPTOR MINI

You just need to connect it to your tablet with a USB port, or you can connect it to a PC Windows (version 7 and subsequent versions) with Internet connection.

Don’t have an android smartphone or no internet connection on your laptop?No need to worry! It is possible to turn your other smartphones i.e. iPhones, into personal Internet hotspots. If you are out on the road at a job you can then connect your laptop to the Internet using your personal hotspot:

Then, the car switchboard has to be turned on eight times with the copied key, making sure it has been completely removed from the ignition lock between a sniff and the other. This way the electronic head can record the data sent from the car control unit.

The cloning process will be completed following the instructions provided by the Software or the App. 884 Decryptor Ultegra or 884 Decryptor Mini use the stored data of the electronic head to calculate the secret key of the original key.

Finally, simply check the correct cloning of the key by turning on the vehicle with the copied key just made.

All types of transponders Megamos® Crypto are duplicable using TKM (for the copy), the electronic head dedicated to this type of transponder.

Alternatively you can download the Keyline Cloning Tool mobile app on an Android smartphone and start the process of transponder-equipped car key cloning without the need to press any buttons or without connecting to a power outlet.

Once you have your hotspot name, connect your laptop to wifi as you would normally, selecting the hotspot name to connect to.

36

The Ins and Outs of Lock BumpingThe main point to note with all forms of bumping,

including bumping with electric and manual pick guns is that the pins do not separate before the bottom pins reach the shear line.

In bumping there are two main constants:

1] The length of the lower pins: This determines how much time the top pins spend crossing the shear line between the cylinder plug and the cylinder housing.

2] Manufacturing inaccuracies: Like with picking this causes one or more pins to bind under tension before others.

There are two main variables:

1] Tension: his also helps to determine the speed/energy of pins crossing the shear line.

2] Strike force: This determines the initial speed / energy of each pin stack.

When the pins of a cylinder are bumped, the art is to balance tension with strike force.

This is so that the energy as the pins cross the shear line is only just sufficient to allow the bottom pins to either stop at the shear line or only just pass across the shear line. This is because of the misalignment of the

top and bottom pin chambers. It is at the shear line where the top and bottom pins start to separate. Why? Because the top pin is no longer affected by tension and the bottom pin if it passes the shear line does become affected.

After the bottom pins have stopped moving (they may be stopped at the shear line or across the shearline) the top pins carry on their movement upwards until the springs overcome them and drive them back downwards again. When they reach the shear line they are stopped by the overlapping pin chambers and any bottom pin that is across the shear line is pushed downwards clear of the shear line and the plug can then turn.

The tension normally required for successful bumping is very light. This is because a lot of energy is lost when the bottom pin is struck.

Tests show: If a cylinder is loaded with just a single row of bottom pins and then bumped using no tension, the pins will hardly move due to

By Chris Belcher

ONTHEBENCH

37

loss of energy. The reason being is that the pins bounce off of the lower chamber walls, so losing most of their energy. This is the principle used by those manufacturers who incorporate short top pins to prevent bumping. In such instances these systems have two major flaws that I will not go into at this time. Another point to note is that if a top pin fails to reach the shear line when driven by a short pin, the short pin falls back (in rim cylinders), then, if it is bumped again without resetting, the pin will not have enough energy to move the top pin.

If the chambers are fully loaded with their top pins and springs and then bumped, the bottom and top pins will move upwards, together. The reason for this is that the bottom pin has been partially stabilised by the backpressure of the top pin and its spring therefore losing less energy.

Bumping and the Laws of MotionNewton’s 3rd Law of Motion is generally used to explain the act of bumping; but in actual fact all of Newton’s Laws can be applied to this lock breaking phenomena. Isaac Newton’s Laws of Motion:

1. An object in motion will remain in motion unless acted upon by a net force.

2. Force equals mass multiplied by acceleration.

3. To every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Newton’s 3rd Law: To every action there is an equal and opposite reaction

When the key is bumped into a lock, both pins move in a uniform direction and act as a solid.

If tension is applied to the cylinder, then the top pin has a force acting upon it.The bottom pin has no force acting on it, other than that from being ‘bumped.’

Newton’s 1st Law: An object in motion will remain in motion unless acted upon by a net force

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Although under spring pressure, the pins are still accelerating upwards.

When the bottom of the top pin and the top of the bottom pin reach the shear line, there is a change in forces acting on both pins.

The top pin has no force acting upon it other than the spring.

The bottom pin has the force of tension applied to it.

Therefore the bottom pin will decelerate and might stop at this point, the top pin will continue its movement upwards until the force of the spring stops its upward movement and reverses it.

If we assume for the moment that the bottom pin carried on its movement upwards, and was then acted upon by the force of the top pin moving downwards (due to the spring overcoming the upward movement) the result in energy when the both pins reach the shearline will be very low.

If we consider that the clearance between a pin and its chamber is 0.001 of an inch, when tension is applied, the core of the cylinder can rotate 0.001 of an inch for the top pin, plus 0.001 of an inch for the bottom pin. Therefore if the top pin with very low energy behind it tries to go past the shearline it will be stopped at the shearline, because of the difference in diameters of the chambers that have been formed.But, why this didn’t happen when the pins were on their way up?

It is due to the energy transferred to the pins by the bump key which allows at least one of the pins to pass the shearline so aligning the chambers momentarily. Once the low energy top pin reaches the shearline the core of the cylinder can rotate.

It is on this basis that the system works. There are a lot more variables, but the outcome of it is that a pin normally comes to rest at the shearline on its way down.To prove this I did some modifications to counter this effect, and the cylinder became bump proof.

We have reduced the diameter of the lower part of the top pin, so that it can enter the lower chamber, even though it is off-set.

The top pin will stop at the shearline, at its maximum diameter.

Therefore, the reduced diameter prevents rotation.

For a full guide on how to recognise a bumped cylinder, including information on bump action mechanics and how to identify pin, keyway, spring and chamber damage – check out issue 2 of Cars, Keys & Locks coming soon!

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